CZ20013017A3 - Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method, use of a polymer containing cations, use of a preparation containing a compound being selected from the group of B3 vitamin - Google Patents

Description

(57)

A cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: a) from 1% to 20% of a compound of the vitamin B ₃ group, or mixtures thereof, and b) a cation-containing polymer selected from ampholytic, amphoteric, basic, zwiterionic and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, wherein the cationic polymers are selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers containing vinyl pyrrolidone; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, Ν, Ν, Ν trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof; said composition having a weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to vitamin B ₃ compound of from 1: 7 to 1: 100. The composition of the present invention exhibits reduced skin irritation, reduced sticky feel and skin lightening.

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Cosmetic composition, cosmetic method, use of a polymer containing cations, use of a composition comprising a compound of the vitamin B3 family.

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions containing a higher amount of vitamin B3 compounds which reduce skin irritation, stickiness and lightening.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A variety of compounds have been described in the art that are useful for treating fine wrinkles, wrinkles and other forms of unwanted structures on the skin surface. In addition, vitamin B3 compounds, especially niacinamide, have recently been found to have a clear beneficial effect on skin condition, including fine wrinkles, wrinkles and other forms of irregular or uneven surface structures that are related to skin aging or occur in the skin, damaged sunlight. However, in order to be useful, many of these substances require frequent application over a long period of time. It would be advantageous to provide a topically applicable composition that provides improved appearance of fine wrinkles, wrinkles and other forms of unwanted structures on the skin surface even after a shorter period of use, which also affects the immediate enhancement of the tactile effect obtained on the skin.

One way to influence the immediate improvement of skin surface structures and tactile sensation would be by administering high levels of vitamin B3 compounds, especially niacinamide, by topical application. However, administration of high amounts of niacinamide (greater than 1%) to the skin is complicated by the fact that niacinamide crystallizes at these skin surface concentrations. This is undesirable for the user, who may then observe skin lightening, increased stickiness caused by product residues, and may experience irritating effects due to local concentrations of niacinamide crystals.

Polymer film forming agents, such as polyquaternium-10, are described in US Patent 5,103,763 as tactile skin modifying compounds, useful as skin care compositions, and which are resistant to water removal by skin wash. Further, U.S. Pat. No. 4,938,951 describes compositions comprising evaporating solvents, polymer film forming agents, and topical agents. These compositions are described as enhancing the activity of the locally active agent, and in particular the film-forming polymer has the ability to enhance the activity of the locally acting agent. The term "topically active agent" includes vitamins and Example 47 describes a composition comprising water, ascorbic acid (0.5%) and JR400 (polyquaternium-10) (0.1%) in a polymer: reagent ratio of 0.2: 1. Generally, the compositions herein describe the ratio of film-forming agent to topical agent in the range of from 0.5: 1 to 20: 1 and the preferred ratio is from 1: 1 or 2: 1 to 4: 1. These high ratios of the film-forming agent to the locally active agent mentioned herein are likely to cause high viscosity of the products, which is undesirable from the consumer's point of view.

Further, WO97 / 39733 discloses a method of treating visible or palpable irregularities in the skin structure by a composition comprising a safe and effective amount of a compound of the vitamin B3 family together with a carrier. Optional additional ingredients in the compositions described herein are nonionic or cationic polyacrylamides, either cross-linked or not, for example, polyquaternium-32 and polyquaternium-37, and film-forming polymers such as copolymers of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidine.

Although the prior art compositions and discoveries provide useful procedures in the cosmetic skin care field, they do not contain sufficient ways to reduce irritation, lightening and stickiness induced by compositions containing higher concentrations of vitamin B3 family compounds.

It has now been found that when selected cation-containing polymers are included in certain proportions in cosmetic compositions that are left on the skin and contain higher concentrations of vitamin B3 compounds, we can avoid the sticky feeling that is usually associated with higher concentrations of % of the vitamin B3 group, and a composition with reduced ability to cause skin irritation and lightening is formed. It is believed that when cation-containing polymers are included in the composition in certain proportions, the rate and manner of crystallization are suppressed, resulting in a more uniform coverage of the skin surface with the niacinamide crystalline material. It is believed that the cationic groups on the polymer bind to the surfaces of the crystals forming, thereby reducing their rate of further growth and suppressing skin lightening and stickiness.

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SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In one embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin and which can then be left on the skin, comprising:

a. from 1% to 20% of compounds of the vitamin B3 family or mixtures thereof; and

b. a cation-containing polymer selected from ampholytic, amphoteric, basic, zwitterionic and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, wherein the cationic polymers are selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymer-containing cationic copolymers; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof;

wherein said composition has a weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to a vitamin B3 compound of from 1: 7 to 1: 100.

The compositions of the present invention exhibit reduced effects with respect to skin irritation, skin stickiness and lightening.

In a second embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic method of treating the skin by applying to the skin a composition of the present invention.

In a third embodiment, the present invention provides the use of a polymer containing cations or mixtures thereof to reduce the level of skin stickiness, skin irritation or lightening in skin care compositions comprising a vitamin B3 compound or a mixture thereof.

In a fourth embodiment, the present invention provides the use of a composition comprising a vitamin B3 compound or mixture thereof and a polymer comprising cations or mixtures thereof, wherein said composition for application to the skin and which can then be left on the skin is a polymer weight ratio containing cations to a compound of the vitamin B3 family from 1: 7 to 1: 100.

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1 · · ····· * 1 ···· · ··· ·· ·· ···

The compositions of the present invention comprise compounds of the vitamin B3 family or mixtures thereof, together with a substantial particular constituent, or a cation-containing polymer thereof, wherein said composition has a weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to the vitamin B3 group compound from 1 : 7 to 1: 100, and optionally also contains various admixtures as described below. All levels and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated. The chain lengths and degrees of substitution by ethoxy groups are also given based on the average weight.

As used herein, the term "adherence" or "adhesion" in connection with a composition left after application to the skin means the ability of the composition to easily bind to the skin surface where the composition has been applied, under low pressure and within a short period of time.

As used herein, the term "tackiness" or "tackiness" is a term frequently used by consumers to describe their sense of tackiness, whether actual or perceived in contact with the composition.

As used herein, the term "retained" in the skin care composition means that it is intended to be used without washing, so that after application of the composition to the skin, the composition is left on the skin preferably for at least 15 minutes, more preferably at least 30 minutes, even more preferably. at least 1 hour and most preferably at least several hours, for example up to 12 hours.

As used herein, the term " cation-containing polymer " means a polymer having 2% molecular weight or more, preferably 5% molecular weight or more, or even more preferably 10% molecular weight or more of monomers having a positive charge at pH 4.

As used herein, the term "ampholytic" means a polymer that contains cationic and anionic monomers.

As used herein, the term "copolymer" refers to the association of more than one chemically distinct monomer.

As used herein, the term "zwitterionic" means a compound that carries both positive and negative charges and exists as a dipolar ion over a wide pH range.

As used herein, the term "amphoteric" means a compound that behaves at low pH as a cation and at high pH as an anion. In the middle pH range, called the isoelectric point, the compound carries both positive and negative charges, i.e. it is a dipolar ion.

··· ··························· · · · ··

As used herein, the term "basic" refers to a polymer that exhibits an increasing positive charge as the pH decreases.

As used herein, the term "skin conditioning agent" means a substance capable of providing the skin with cosmetic benefits such as moisturizing, promoting the ability to retain or retain water or moisture within the skin, softening the skin, enhancing the visual appearance of the skin surface, soothing the skin, softening the skin and improving feeling in the skin.

As used herein, the term "non-barrier" means that the component described herein does not substantially prevent the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

The present compositions may be used for any suitable purpose. The present compositions are particularly suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of emulsions composed of one or more oil phases contained in the aqueous phase.

Vitamin B3 compounds

As an essential ingredient, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one vitamin B3 compound.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 1% to 20%, preferably from 4% to 15%, even more preferably from 7% to 14%, and most preferably from 10% to 13% of a compound of the vitamin B3 family, or mixtures thereof.

As used herein, the term "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound of the formula:

wherein R is -CONH 2 (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or CH 2 OH (i.e. nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of these compounds.

Examples of derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vascular nicotinic esters, nicotinyl amino acid derivatives, nicotinyl alcohol carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid oxide, and niacinamide N-oxide. As used herein, the term "non-dilating vessels" means that the ester does not normally cause visible redness after application of the compositions to the skin (most of the general population would not have visible redness, although such compounds may cause vascular enlargement that is not visible to the naked eye, ie the ester does not cause redness of the skin) . Nicotinic acid esters that do not cause vascular expansion include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate, with tocopherol nicotinate being preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 family are niacinamide derivatives resulting from the substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogen. Examples of niacinamide derivatives that are suitable for use in the present invention include nicotinyl amino acid derivatives, derived, for example, by reacting an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g. nicotinic azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid and nicotinyl alcohol esters with organic carboxylic acids (e.g. C1 to C18) ). Specific cases of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N2O3) and nicotinylhydroxamic acid (ΟθΗβΝ2θ2). Examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids such as salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid and palmitic acid and the like. Other examples of vitamin B3 family compounds suitable for use in the present invention are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide and niaprazine.

Examples of the above-mentioned vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St, Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

One or more compounds of the vitamin B3 family may be used in the present invention. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. More preferred is niacinamide.

Salts of compounds of the vitamin B3 family are also suitable in the present invention. Suitable examples include organic and inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic materials (e.g., chloride) and salts of organic carboxylic acids. These and other salts of compounds of the vitamin B3 family can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan, for example as described by W. Wenner in "Reaction of L-ascorbic acid and D-isoascorbic acid with nicotinic acid and its amide", J. Organic Chemistry 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of a salt of ascorbic acid and niacinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen atom is not complexed or becomes uncomplexed upon delivery to the skin surface. More preferably, the compound of the vitamin B3 family is not substantially complexed. Therefore, if the composition comprises a vitamin B3 compound in the form of a salt or other complex form, it is preferred that such a complex becomes reversible upon delivery of the composition to the skin surface. Such a complex should be substantially reversible at a pH in the range of 5.0 to 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily ascertained by one of ordinary skill in the art.

In a preferred embodiment, the compounds of the vitamin B3 family typically contain less than 50% of the compound in salt form.

The compound of the vitamin B3 family may be used as a substantially pure substance or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical from natural sources (eg, from a plant). The compound of the vitamin B3 family is preferably substantially pure, meaning that it is substantially free of impurities originating from the original source. Substantially pure compounds may be provided in solution, optionally with an antioxidant or other stabilizer.

Polymers containing cations

As a further essential component, the compositions herein comprise a cation-containing polymer as defined herein which is selected from ampholytic, amphoteric, basic, zwitterionic and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, wherein the cationic polymers are selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-containing cationic copolymers; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight of cation-containing polymers or mixtures thereof .

· ♦ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ * φ * φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ • · · · · · · ♦ · · ·

Preferably, the cationic polymers are water-soluble, dispersible or swellable. By "water-swellable" is meant the ability of cation-containing polymers to increase in volume or expand in aqueous solution.

Cationic polymer film forming materials useful in the compositions of the present invention are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, and quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof. Preferred cationic polymer film forming materials suitable for the compositions of the present invention are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof.

Suitable examples of cationic polysaccharides include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: cellulose; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose; cationic cellulose derivatives having a molecular weight in the range of 120,000 to 2,000,000, including quaternary ammonium groups, such as a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reactive with trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, more specifically an α- [2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium modified ω-ether) propyl] -CL) -hydroxypoly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) chloride, known in the industry under (CFTA) trade name Polyquaternium-10, commercially available from Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA) as "JR" and "LR" eg "JR-125", "JR-400", JR-30M ", diallyldimethylammonium chloride / hydroxyethylcellulose copolymers, referred to in the industry (CFTA) as Polyquaternium-4, available under the trade names" Celquat L 200 "or" Celquat " H-100 "from the National Starch Company (Salisbury, NC, USA) and polymeric quaternal ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose after reaction with" Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 "substituted epoxide lauryldimethylammonium, referred to in the industry as Polyquaternium-24, available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA); starches, for example cationic starches such as 2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium chloride starch ether, commercially available under the trade names "Sta-Loc 300" and "Sta-Loc 400" from Stanley Inc. (Decateur, III., USA), which reacted with quaternal amines to form ethers at hydroxyl position, hydroxyalkyl starch derivatives, arabinose monomer-based polymers, xylose-derived polymers, polymers • · · 99 · ♦ · 9 9 99

9 9 9 9 9

9999 9 99 fucose-derived, fructose-derived polymers, acid-based carbohydrate polymers such as galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid, polymers based on amine-containing sugars such as galactosamine and glucosamine, and in particular acetylglucosamine, polyols based on five- or six-ring rings, galactose-based polymers and polymers based on mannose monomers.

Suitable cationic polysaccharide rubber derivatives include galactomannan copolymer based polymer derivatives known as guar gum. For example, compounds such as hydroxypropyl guar gum derivatives are commercially available under the trade names "Jaguar HP-60", "Jaguar HP-8", "Jaguar HP-79", "Jaguar HP-120", "Jaguar HP-200" from Rhone -Poulenc or "Galactosol" available from Aqualon; a hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative with hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the tradename " Jaguar C-162 " from Rhône Poulenc; or polymeric compounds such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available, e.g., under the tradename "Jaguar C-14S", "Jaguar C-17", "Jaguar C-13S" from Rhone-Poulenc, "N-Hance" e.g. "N-Hance" 2196 "from Aqualon, Hercules Inc. (Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands), or" Cosmedia Guar C-261 "from Henkel Inc. (Teaneck, NJ, USA).

Cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride suitable for use in the present invention are poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-6 or under the trade names "Merquat 100" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA), "Agequat 400" from CPS Chemical Company (West Memphis, AR, USA) or "Mirapol 100" from Rhone Poulenc; and polymeric, consisting of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers, are commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-7 or under the trade name "Merquat 100" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

Cationic copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone suitable for use in the present invention include a solution of a copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid with diethyl sulfate, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-11 or under the trade name "Gafquat 755N" by ISP, Wayne, NJ USA); a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt formed from methyl vinyl imidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, which is commercially available under the tradename Polyquaternium-16 or under the tradename "Luviquat FC 370" from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-28 or under the trade name "GafquatHS-100" from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt, consisting of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternal imidazoline monomers, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-44 or under the trade name "Luviquat MS370" from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); a quaternary ammonium salt prepared by reacting vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazole methosulfate, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-46 or under the trade name "Luviquat Hold" from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA).

Cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or derivatives thereof suitable for use in the present invention include a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt prepared by reacting an ethyl methacrylate / abiethyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate commercially available under the tradename Polyquaternium-12; polymeric material; and a copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and DMAPA monomers, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-43 or under the trade name "Bozequat 4000" from Societe Francaise Hoescht.

Other cationic polymers suitable for use in the present invention are poly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) (dimethyliminio) -1,3-propanediylimino carbonyl-imino-1,2-propanediyl (-dimethyliminio) -1,2 -ethanediyl dichloride, which is known in the industry as Polyquaternium-2 and is commercially available under the trade name Mirapol A-15 from Rhone-Poulenc; and dihydroxypropylchitosantrimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-29 or under the trade name Kytamer KC from Amerchol.

Ampholytic polymers suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are ampholytic copolymers containing acrylic acid and containing a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, which is commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-22 or under the trade name "Merquat 280" from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA); acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-39 or under the trade name "Merquat Plus"

3330 "or" Merquat Plus 3331 "from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA) and a quaternary ammonium salt prepared by polymerizing acrylic acid, methyl acrylate, and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-47 or under the trade name" Merquat 2001N "by Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

Amphoteric polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention include combinations of tertiary amine monomers that are combined with anionic monomers and may further comprise nonionic monomers, for example, methacrylamidopropyldimethylammonium / acrylic acid copolymer; and polymers derived from methacrylamidoethylcarboxymethylhydroxyethylamine monomers, which are shown below:

Basic polymers suitable for the compositions of the present invention include homopolymers of tertiary amine derivatives and copolymers with nonionic monomers. Examples of such suitable materials include a polyvinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer prepared from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate monomers commercially available under the trade name PVP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer or under the trade name "Copolymer 845/937/958" from ISP, Wayne, USA, ; and polymers with substituted amino groups, such as polymers of ethylenimine, which correspond to formula _{(CH2 CH2} NH) _n; such as PEI-10, wherein n has an average value of 10, which is commercially available under the trade name "Polymin FG" from BASF; PEI-15, wherein n has an average value of 15, which is commercially available under the tradename "Epomin SP-006" from Aceto; PEI-45, wherein n has an average value of 45, which is commercially available under the tradename "Epomin SP-018" from Aceto; or PEI-1400, wherein n has an average value of 1400, which is commercially available under the trade name "Nalco 634" from Nalco.

Zwitterionic polymers useful in the compositions of the present invention include polymers derived from methacrylamidopropyl betaine monomers, such as a copolymer of methacrylamidopropyl betaine and a nonionic monomer. An example of such a polymer is vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl betaine copolymer.

Preferred cation-containing polymers in the present invention are cationic or ampholytic polymers. Preferred for use in the present invention are cationic or ampholytic polymers selected from cation-containing polysaccharides or derivatives thereof and ampholytic acrylic acid-containing copolymers, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferred are cationic polymers selected from cation-containing cellulose derivatives, guar gum derivatives that have been formed by cation-containing polysaccharides, and acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred cationic polymers suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are selected from polyquaternium-10, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride derivative of guar, hydroxypropyl derivative of guar gum, and acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

As an essential component of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention have a weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to a vitamin B3 compound of from 1: 7 to 1: 100, preferably from 1: 8 to 1:70 and most preferably from 1: 9 to 1:50.

It is preferred that the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 4% anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, more preferably less than 2% and most preferably less than 1% anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant active substances.

In a preferred embodiment, when the compositions of the present invention comprise an anionic surfactant, the composition contains a cation-containing polymer to the anionic surfactant greater than 1.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from 0% to 2% and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% of C 8 to C 30 fatty acids.

Thinner

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention comprise a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent, which may be any liquid in which the cation-containing polymer and the vitamin B3 group compound are substantially soluble.

Suitable hydrophilic diluents include water and polyhydric alcohols such as polyalkene glycol derivatives, and more preferably alkene polyols and derivatives thereof such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, erythritol, threitol, mannitol, mannitol, pentaerythritol, pentaerythritol. , hexylene glycol, butylene glycol (eg 1,3-butylene glycol), hexanetriol (eg 1,2,6hexantriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, ethoxy derivatives of glycerin and propoxy derivatives of glycerin, or mixtures thereof.

When polyhydric alcohols are present, the diluent in the compositions of the present invention preferably comprises from 3% to 20% by weight in total, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 7% to 12% by weight of polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures. Consequently, when the hydrophilic diluent in the compositions of the present invention comprises a mixture of water and a polyhydric alcohol, generally water is from 80% to 97% by weight, more preferably from 85% to 95% by weight, and most preferably from 88% to 93% weight of diluent.

In order to provide improved results regarding the tackiness of the composition, the weight ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the polyhydric alcohol is preferably in the range from 1: 200 to 1: 1 and more preferably in the range from 1: 100 to 1: 5.

Water, glycerin and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred diluents in the compositions of the present invention.

Oil phase

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous phase, each oil phase comprising one oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form. The different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials. The total amount of oil phase components in the compositions of the present invention is typically from 0.1% to 60%, preferably from 1% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 10%, and most preferably from 2% to 10%.

It is preferred that the oil phase components of the compositions of the present invention comprise a plasticizer or mixtures thereof, a polyol ester of a carboxylic acid, and a silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.

♦ 4 « ♦ 4 4 • 4 • « • • 44 4 · 4 • • 44 4 • •

·· ··

9

9 9 9

9

9 9 9

In preferred embodiments, the oil phase preferably comprises additional oil components such as natural or synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. These oil components are present in an amount of from 0.1% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the composition. Preferred for this use are, for example, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oils or petroleum petrolatum. Further examples suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO98 / 22 085. Preferred embodiments as described in WO98 / 22 085 contain from 0.1% to 10% by weight of their unsaturated fatty acid or ester.

Emollients

The compositions of the present invention may comprise emollients selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having an average molecular weight of from 100 to 15,000, preferably from 100 to 1000; they are compounds of formula I:

R ² O, I - (i) R ¹ -C (CH _{2) x} -C? 3'OR wherein is selected from H or CH3, R2, R3 and R ^ are independently selected from C1 to C20 straight chain or branched chain, and x is an integer from 1 to 20; and compounds of formula II:

O

A ^l!

R ⁵ - C - OR ⁶ (II) wherein r ⁵ is benzyl optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or C ^1-6 alkyl; to C4 alkyl and R® is selected from C1 to C20 ^branched or straight chain; and mixtures thereof.

The branched chain hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are selected from the group of isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosan, isoooktahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectan, isopentacontaoctactan and mixtures thereof.

• · ·

Branched-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, sold under the tradename Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Prespers Inc., are suitable for use in the present invention. schr. 735, South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, USA. Suitable ester type emollients of the aforementioned general formula (I) include, but are not limited to, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isisanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecylisononanoate, myristyloctanoate, octylpelargonate, mytylisononate, mytylisononanoate, mytylisononanoate, mytylisononate. Suitable emollients of formula II include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoates.

Emollients preferred for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isononylisonanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecylisononanoate, myristyloctanoate, octylisononanoate, myristylmyristate, methylisostearate, isopropylisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof.

Emollients particularly preferred for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isononyl isisanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the emollients are present in the compositions in an amount of from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the composition.

Esters of carboxylic acids with polyols

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise other emollients such as carboxylic acid esters of polyols.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The proportion of the polyol ester in the total weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from 1% to 30%, more preferably from 5% to 20%. In view of improving skin softness and smoothness, it is preferred that the weight ratio of carboxylic acid esters to polyols with respect to the aforementioned emollients is in the range of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably in the range of 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Polyol polyesters preferred for use in the present invention are C 1 to C 30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and the like. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol component and one or more carboxylic acid components. Depending on the acid and sugar components, these esters can be either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples include: glucose tetraoleate, tetraesters 99 9 ♦♦ «9 99 99 · 9 99 9 99 9 · 9 9 99 99 99 999 99999 *

9 * 9 9 9 999 99 · · · 9 9 galactose with oleic acid, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester, in which the carboxylic acid components in the ester are palmitoleic acid and at a molar ratio of 1.2 and octaester of sucrose, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid components are lauric, linolenic and behenic in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. Other substances include cottonseed oil or sucrose esters of soybean oil fatty acids. Further examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636, which is incorporated herein by reference. A particularly preferred substance is known under the INCI name "sucrose polycottonseedate".

Silicone oil

The present compositions preferably comprise at least one phase of silicone oil. The silicone oil phase generally comprises from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% of the composition. The silicone oil phase preferably comprises one or more silicone components.

The silicone components may be liquids, including both straight and branched chain silicones and cyclic silicones. Silicone fluids suitable for use in the present invention include silicones such as polyalkylsiloxane fluids, polyarylsiloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino-modified and quaternal amino-modified silicones, polyalkyarylsiloxanes, or polyetheriloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Silicone fluids may be volatile or nonvolatile. Silicone fluids have an average molecular weight of less than 200,000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of 100,000 or less, preferably 50,000 or less, most preferably 10,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having an average molecular weight in the range of from 100 to 50,000, and preferably in the range of from 200 to 40,000.

Typically the silicone fluid at 25 ° C viscosity in the range from 0.65 to 600,000 mm2 s ^_ 1, preferably from 0.65 to 10,000 mm ^ .s ^- ^. The viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer as disclosed in the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Polydimethylated siloxanes suitable for use in the present invention include, for example, those available from General Electric Company as SF series and Viscasil (RTM) and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Substantially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes are also suitable, for example polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities at 25 ° C from 0.65 to 30,000 mm 2 s ^-1 . For example, these siloxanes are available from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl liquid and from Dow Corning as cosmetic grade 556 liquid.

Cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use in the present invention are those whose ring structure contains 3 to 7 (CH 3) 2 SiO components.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone fluid is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenylmethicone and mixtures thereof.

Silicone rubbers may also be used herein. The term "silicone rubber" as used herein means high molecular weight silicones whose average molecular weight exceeds 200,000 and is preferably from 200,000 to 4,000,000. These include nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil phase comprises a silicone rubber or a mixture of silicones including silicone rubber. Typically, the silicone rubber at 25 ° C a viscosity in excess of 1,000,000 mm2 ^_ \ silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch, et al., And also in U.S. Patent 4,152,416 of May 1, 1979 to Spitzer, et al. , and in Noll and Walter, Silicone Chemistry and Technology, New York: Academic Press 1968. Silicone rubbers are also described in general electric silicone gum data sheets (SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76). Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, copolymer (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane), poly (dimethylsiloxane) - (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Silicone gums suitable for use in the present invention are silicone gums having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

The silicone phase used herein preferably comprises a silicone gum which is included in the composition as part of a mixture of liquid silicone gums. When the silicone gum is included as part of the liquid silicone gum mixture, the silicone gum preferably constitutes from 5% to 40%, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of the liquid silicone gum mixture. Mixtures of liquid silicone gums suitable for use in the present invention are those consisting essentially of:

(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and ii) a carrier which is a silicone fluid, the carrier having a viscosity from 0.65 mm2 s-1 to 100 MRN ^ .s ^- V wherein the ratio of i) and ii) is from 10:90 to 20:80 and wherein component based silicone rubber has a final viscosity of from 100 to 100,000 mm2.s1 mm2 ^_ \ preferably 500 mm2 -1 to 10,000 mm ^ sA

A component of the silicone gum mixture particularly suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention is dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from 200,000 to 4,000,000 along with a liquid silicone carrier having a viscosity of from 0.65 to 100 mm 2. s1. Examples of such a silicone component are Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm² / sec Dimethicone Fluid / 15% Dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401, which are available from Dow Corning.

Other silicone components that are suitable for use in the silicone oil phase of the present invention are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers, which may be dispersed in a liquid carrier. Generally, when cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers are present, they together with the carrier (if present) constitute 0.1% to 20%, preferably 0.5% to 10%, more preferably 0.5% to 5% of the composition. Such polymers include polyorganosiloxane polymers cross-linked with a cross-linking agent. Suitable cross-linking agents are described in WO98 / 22,085. Examples of polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the present invention include methylvinyldimethicone, methylvinyldiphenyldimethicone and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyldimethicone.

Specific commercially available cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the present invention are cross-linked silicone-vinyl mixtures available under the trade name KSG and available from Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd, for example KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG- 17 and KSG-18. These materials comprise a combination of a cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone fluid. A particularly suitable material in combination with the organic amphiphilic emulsifying material is KSG-18. The determined INCI names for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG17 and KSG-18 are cyclomethicondimethicon / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, dimethicondimethicone / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, cyclomethicondimethicone / vinyldimethicone cross-polymer, and phenyltrimethicondimimimethicon / phenyl cross-polymer, respectively.

4 4 44 44

444 · 444 4444 44 4 44

4 <44444 • 444 4 ··· «44444

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in the silicone oil phase of the present invention includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers comprising at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene cell. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane sections and copolymers thereof are described in WO98 / 22 085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers are commercially available under the trade names Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8 000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from . Goldsmith Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL such as Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred mixture of liquid copolymers for use in the present invention is Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA designation Dimethicone / Dimethicone copolyol.

Amphiphilic surfactants

Another preferred component of the compositions of the present invention is an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming lyotropic crystals either in the product or after the product is applied to the skin at room temperature or at elevated temperature. It has been found that organic amphiphilic surfactants are particularly useful herein to improve the stability of the compositions of the present invention and to improve the sensation obtained upon application to the skin. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise nonionic surfactants in an amount of from 0.01% to 4%, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% and even more preferably from 0.08% to 2%. Preferred classes of nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention and their properties are described in WO98 / 22 085 which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferred for use in the present invention are those sugar esters with one, two and three substituted acyls and mixtures thereof wherein the substituted acyls contain from 8 to 24, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1 or 2 unsaturated components and derivatives of polyethylene glycol . Highly preferred for use in the present invention is a mixture of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of fatty acid esters with sorbitan or sorbitol and a sucrose fatty acid ester, in each case the fatty acids are preferably C8-C24, more preferably C10-C20. carbon atoms. A preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier for skin moisturization is a mixture of fatty acid esters (C-C0 to C20) ^with sorbitan or sorbitol with sucrose fatty acid ester (C10-C20), especially sorbitan stearate and

444 • 4 4 * 444 • 4

44 44 · 4 ·· 4 * 44 4 4 I · 4

4 * 4444

4 * 4 44

4 ** 44

44 * 44 44444 sucrose ester with coconut oil. This is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

Humidifiers

The compositions of the present invention may contain other humectants which are preferably present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15%, and particularly preferably from 0.5% to 15% .

Other humectants suitable for use in the present invention are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolic acid salts (e.g., ammonium salts or with an alkylated quaternal amino group); lactic acid and lactic acid salts (eg, ammonium salts or with an alkylated quaternal amino group); aloe vera in any of its various forms (eg, aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, salts such as sodium hyaluronic acid); monoethanolaminlactamide; monoethanolamine acetamide; urea; panthenol and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

At least a portion (up to 5% by weight of the composition) of the additional humectants may be added in admixture with a particular crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, which itself is preferably present in an amount of from 0.1% to 10%, and may be added to either an aqueous or dispersed phase. This copolymer is particularly suitable for reducing gloss, while providing effective wetting and is described in detail in WO96 / 03 964, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The above compounds may be included either alone or in combination. Preferred additional humectants can be selected from: urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

In preferred embodiments, when an oil phase and an organic surfactant are present, they are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably below 60 ° C) to form prior to the addition of urea in aqueous crystal / oil liquid phase dispersion. It has been found that urea, when used to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion in a skin care composition, in combination with an amphiphilic emulsifying surfactant and a polyol fatty acid polyester is particularly effective to provide excellent moisturizing and skin softening.

· · * ♦ • • • • • • •

· »A a....... A a a a a

• * · · ·

A wide variety of optional additional ingredients, such as thickening agents, non-occluding humectants, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants, can also be added to these skin care compositions.

Thickening agents

The compositions of the present invention may contain thickening agents.

In general, the compositions of the present invention may contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 8%, and most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the thickening agent or mixtures thereof.

When polymeric thickening agents are used in the compositions of the present invention, it would be advantageous for the content of monovalent to polyvalent metal ions to be less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.25% and even more preferably less than 0.05% in order to excessively they did not interfere with the stability of the polymers.

Preferred nonionic thickeners include polyacrylamide polymers, cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones, polysaccharides, natural or synthetic gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol. Preferred anionic thickening agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, carboxyvinyl polymers, and cross-linked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. Particularly preferred thickeners for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferred for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers.

Polyacrylamide polymers

The nonionic polyacrylamide polymers suitable for use in the present invention are substituted polyacrylamides, whether branched or unbranched. These polymers are nonionic, water dispersible polymers which can be formed from a variety of monomers, including acrylamide and methacrylamide, which are either unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C ₁ -C ₅ ). Preferred are acrylate amides and methacrylate amides in which the amide nitrogen atom is unsubstituted or substituted by one or two C 1 -C ₅ alkyl groups (preferred are: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N- methyl methacrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide and Ν, Ν-dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are generally described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,963

• 4 • * 44 44 4 • 4 • 44 4 · • 4 • 4 • • 4 • 4444 · 4 4 V 4 4 4 4 • • 4 4 4 • 4 4 ·· »· « • 44 44 44 • 04

348, issued October 16, 1990 to Bolich et al., The patent being incorporated herein by reference. These copolymers may optionally be formed using conventional neutral cross-linking agents such as dialkenyl-type compounds. The use of such cross-linking agents for cationic polymers is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,628,078, issued December 9, 1986 to Glover et al., And U.S. Pat.

July 8, 1986 to Flescher et al., Both of which are incorporated herein by reference. These nonionic copolymers have a molecular weight of greater than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 1,500,000 and can reach a molecular weight of up to 30,000,000. The advantageous result of their synthesis by reverse phase emulsion polymerization is that these nonionic polyacrylamides are pre-dispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as mineral oil and the like, and contain a high HLB surfactant (HLB from 7 to 10) that facilitates the dispersion of the polyacrylamide in water. Most preferred for use in the present invention is a nonionic polymer with a CFTA designation: polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers suitable for use in the present invention include multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids or substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multiblock copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Paterson, NJ).

Cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones

Cross-linked poly-N-vinylpyrrolidones suitable for use in the present invention include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,139,770, issued August 18, 1992 to Shih et al., And U.S. Patent No. 5,073,614, issued September 17, 1992; These gel-forming agents typically comprise from 0.25% to 1% by weight of a cross-linking agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl terminal diol ethers containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from 2 to 600 units, dienes having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, vinyl and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity of from 25,000 mPa · s (eps) to 40,000 mPa · s (eps) measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C using a Brookfield RTV worm viscometer # 6 at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of these polymers include ACP-1120,

ACP-1179 and ACP-1180, available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, NJ).

Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. The term "polysaccharides" refers to those gelling agents that contain repeating units of sugars (i.e., carbohydrates) as the backbone of their molecules. Examples of gel-forming polysaccharide agents include, but are not limited to, those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, acetylcellulose propionarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose sodium, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, microcrystalline. Also suitable for use in the present invention are cellulose substituted alkyls. In these polymers, the hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer are substituted with hydroxyalkyl groups (preferably a hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group) to form a hydroxyalkyl cellulose, which is further modified with C10-C30 unbranched or branched alkyl groups attached via an ether linkage. Typically, these polymers are ethers of hydroxyalkylcelluloses and alcohols with unbranched or branched chains of C10 to C30. Examples of alkyl groups suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e., alkyl groups derived from alcohols contained in coconut oil), palmityl , oleoyl, linoleoyl, linolenoyl, ricinoleoyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. For these hydroxyethylcellulose-based materials, the hydroxyethyl molar substitution is greater than 3.0. Preferred among the alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is a substance with CTFA designated cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is an ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This substance is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

Other suitable polysaccharides include scleroglucans that contain a linear chain (1 to> 3) of linked glucose units with (1 to> 6) glucose units bound to every third unit, as exemplified by Clearogel ™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, N.J.).

Rubber

Other thickeners suitable for use in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gelan gum, hectorite , hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, karay gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carrageenan, sodium carbonate.

Also suitable are acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B. F. Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO98 / 22 085.

Cross-linked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers with maleic anhydride.

In these copolymers, vinyl ethers are represented by the general formula RO-CH = CH 2, wherein R is C 1 -C 6 alkyl, preferably R is methyl. Preferred cross-linking agents are dienes 04 to 020, preferably dienes 06 to 016, and most preferred dienes 08 to 012. A particularly preferred copolymer is a copolymer formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer is crosslinked by decadiene and wherein the polymer when is dissolved as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7 at 25 ° C, has a viscosity of 50,000 to 70,000 mPa · s (cps) as measured by a Brookfield RTV worm viscometer # 7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the CTFA designation PVMM / MA decadiene cross-linked polymer and is commercially available as Stabileze ™ 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ).

Other thickeners suitable for use in the present invention are water-soluble lubricants such as glyceryl polymethacrylate (such as Hispagel®); polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. No. 11,787, and mixtures thereof. In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates, which are formed by reacting sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Then, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by control of the hydration of the resulting product. Lubricants are sold in a number of variants, varying in glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include • ·

Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and the so-called Lubrajel Oil.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing the acid groups contained in hydrophilic gelling agents include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris buffer, and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the present invention are generally in the form of an emulsion and are preferably formulated such that the viscosity of the product is at least 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range of 4,000 to 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 8,000 to 250,000. mPa.s and particularly preferably from 10,000 to 200,000 mPa.s and even more preferably from 10,000 to 150,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, undiluted, Brookfield RTV, TC worm at 5 rpm and Heliopath Stand).

The compositions of the present invention may also contain from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of panthenol humectant. The panthenol for wetting may be selected from the group D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl)] - 3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium panthotenate, royal jelly, panthetin, pantothein, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex

Other additives include keratolytic / skin peeling agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble preservatives preferably in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2) -nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; antibacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably in an amount of from 0.1% to 5%); soluble or colloid humectants such as hylaronic acid and starch mixed sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM2500, available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in U.S. Patent 4,076 663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and its derivatives, and vitamin K; alpha and beta hydroxy acids; aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetylcysteine; coloring agents; perfumes and perfume solvents.

Sunscreening agents are also suitable for use in the present invention. A wide variety of sunscreen agents is described in U.S. Patent 5,087,445, issued February 11, 1992 to Haffey et al .; U.S. Patent 5,073,372, issued December 17, 1991 to Turner et al .; U.S. Patent 5,073,371, issued December 17, 1991 to Turner et al .; and in Segarin et al., Chapter Vlil, pages 189 et seq. in Cosmetic Science and Technology. Among these sunscreens useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl p-aminobenzoate, p acid. -aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidenkafr, 3- (4-methylbenzilidene) titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789 and mixtures thereof. Still other suitable sunscreen agents are those described in U.S. Patent 4,937,370, issued June 26, 1990 to Sabatellim; and U.S. Patent 4,999,186, issued March 12, 1991 to Sabatelli et al.

Generally, sunscreens may comprise from 0.5% to 20% of the compositions of the present invention. The exact amounts will vary depending upon the agent selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is generally used to measure the protective ability of an anti-redness agent. See Federal Register, Volume 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-3869, August 25, 1978.

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise from 0.1% to 5% by weight of a starch derivative of aluminum octenyl succinate. The starch aluminum octenyl succinate derivative is an aluminum salt of the starch octenyl succinic anhydride reaction product and is commercially available under the tradename Dry Flo from National Starch & Dry Flo is suitable for use because of the sensation it causes in the skin and the characteristics of its use.

Possible other substances used herein include pigments which, if insoluble in water, contribute to and are included in the total amount of oil phase components. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included in the term pigments are substances that are poorly colored or shiny, such as matt surface treatment agents as well as light scattering agents. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise particulate matter having a refractive index of from 1.3 to 1.7, the particulate matter dispersed throughout the composition, and having an average particle size of from 2 to 30 microns. . Preferably, the particles are suitable for

the use in the present invention has a relatively narrow size distribution, meaning that more than 50% of the particles by their size fall within + 3 micrometers of the respective average value. It is also preferred that more than 50%, more preferably more than 60%, even more preferably more than 70%, of the particles fall within the size ranges prescribed for the appropriate average values. Suitable particulate materials are organic or organosilicon, and are preferably organosilicon polymers. Preferred particles are compacts. By the term "compact" is meant that the particles are not hollow. The void space in the center of the hollow particles can adversely affect the refractive index and hence the visual impression that these particles produce on the skin or in the device. Suitable particulate organic materials are those prepared from the polymethylsilsesquioxane mentioned above, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and polyvinylidene chloride. Copolymers derived from the monomers of the aforementioned substances can also be used. Inorganic substances include silica and boron nitride. Representative examples of suitable, commercially available particulate materials are Tospearl® 145 having an average particle size of 4.5 µm and EA-209® from Kobo, which is an ethylene-acrylic acid copolymer having an average particle size of 10 µm, or mixtures thereof .

Other examples of suitable pigments are titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed titanium dioxide from Kobo, e.g., Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxides, acyglutamate iron oxide complex, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending on the formulation, a mixture of these pigments will normally be used. Pigments preferred for use in the present invention in terms of skin wetting, skin feel and appearance, and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and oil esters.

Retinoids

The compositions of the present invention may also contain retinoids. The term "retinoid" is intended to include all natural and / or synthetic vitamin A analogues or retinol-like compounds that exhibit the biological activity of vitamin A on the skin as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., retinol esters of C2 to C22 alkyls including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinol esters. • · · · ··· 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

Retinoic acid (including trans-retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), retinoids other than retinoic acid are more preferred. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. The retinoid may be used as a substantially pure substance or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources.

The compositions preferably comprise from 0.05% to 2%, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% retinoid. Retinol is most commonly used in an amount of from 0.01% to 0.15%; retinol esters are most commonly used in an amount of from 0.01% to 2% (eg, 1%).

Further, the combination of a compound of the vitamin B3 family with a retinoid can provide beneficial effects on skin condition control as described in WO98 / 22 085, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Suitably, the pH of the compositions of the present invention is greater than 4, preferably greater than 4.25, and even more preferably greater than 4.75, it is also preferred that the pH of the compositions is less than 9, more preferably less than The water content of the compositions herein is generally from 30% to 98.89%, preferably from 50% to 95% and especially from 60% to 93% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion that can be applied to the skin by application. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Examples 1 to 6

Component % % % % % % weight Glycerine 7.00 7.00 9.00 12.00 15.00 - Polyethylene glycol 2001 - 3.00 - - 10.00 Urea - 2.20 1.80 - - - Kronos (TiO2) ² - 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 Kobo GWL75CAP ⁴ 0.50 0.20 0.30 -

··· · · ······························································· # ··· · ··· * · · · ···

Tospearl 145a ^{1 2 3 4} - - 0.50 2.00 - - Arlatone2121 ^{5 7} 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Sepigel 305θ 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Sodium hydroxide (40% solution) 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.08 0.10 0.10 Hydrofol acid 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10 0.10 Myrj 59? 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Stearyl alcohol 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.80 1,2 Cetyl alcohol 0.80 1.00 0.72 0.72 1.80 0.80 Isopropylisostearate ³ 1.50 0.75 1.50 1.00 0.5 2.00 SE FA Cottonate ^ 1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80 - - Isohexadekan 1.00 - - - 0.50 1.00 Petroleum jelly - - - - 1.20 0.50 Ethylparaben 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 Propylparaben 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.25 0.25 Benzyl alcohol 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.30 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 - - 0.50 1.00 Niacinamide 2.00 5.00 8.00 10.00 10.00 12.00 Na2-EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 DC Q2-1403 ¹⁰ 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 2.00 2.50 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.25 0.25 0.75 0.50 - Polyquaternium 39 ^ ³ - - 0.25 0.15 0.30 - Polyquaternium ΙΟ ^- * ⁴ 0.25 0.25 - 0.20 0.35 Deionized water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100

1. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn., USA

2. Delivers Kronos, 4 Crying Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

3. Delivers Kobo Products Inc, 690 Montrose Ave, So Plainfield, NJ 07080

4. Supplied by GE Silicones, Plasticslaan 1 / PO Box 117, 4600 AC, Bergen op Zoom, The Netherlands

5. Supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

6. Adds Seppic, 75 Quai DOrsay, Paris · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

7. PEG 100 stearate is supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

8. Delivered by Scher Chemicals Inc, Industrial West, Clifton, NJ 07 012

9. C 1 to C 30 monoesters or polyesters of sugars and one or more carboxylic acid components described herein, preferably sucrose polyesters having a degree of esterification of 7 to 8 and wherein the C 18 components are unsaturated and / or double unsaturated fatty acids and behenic acids , in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably octaester of sucrose, wherein there are 7 behenic fatty acid components in the molecule and one oleic acid component, e.g., sucrose fatty acid ester of cottonseed oil.

10. Delivered by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX

11. Provided by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn., USA

12. Delivered by Aqualon (Hercules Inc), Noordweg 9, 3336 LH Zwinjndrecht, P.O Box 71, 3330 AB Zwinjndrecht, The Netherlands

13. Provided by Calgon Corporation, 43 Hawthorne Av, NJ 07 506

14. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn., USA

The resources are prepared as follows:

The first preformed mixture of anionic thickeners (if present), a mixture of glycerin / TiO2, a cation-containing polymer, Arlaton 2121, if present, and other water-soluble components other than urea, is prepared by mixing them into water and the resulting solution it is then heated to 80 ° C. A second preformed mixture of the oil phase components, including emulsifiers, oil-soluble preservatives, in addition to the silicone oil, is prepared by mixing and heating them and then added to the preformed aqueous mixture.

If an anionic thickener is present, sodium hydroxide is then added to neutralize the composition to a pH of 6 to 7.5, before stirring and cooling to 60 ° C. In the presence of polymeric nonionic thickeners, the process proceeds as described above, only the polymeric thickener eg Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide) is not added unless the mixture is cooled to 60 ° C. Sepigel 305 is added with stirring and then a NaOH solution is added. In both cases, EDTA, silicone oil and a preformed niacinamide / water mixture (3 g water / 1 g niacinamide) and then a urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml water) are then added to the resulting oil / water emulsion and the mixture is added before addition. minor admixtures cooled. The composition is ready for packaging.

The compositions produce only a slight feeling of stickiness of the skin, a low level of irritation and lightening.

Claims (13)

PATENT CLAIMS Cosmetic composition which is left on the skin and suitable for topical application, characterized in that it comprises: (a) from 1% to 20% of vitamin B3 compounds or mixtures thereof; and b) a cation-containing polymer selected from ampholytic, amphoteric, basic, zwiterionic and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, wherein the cationic polymers are selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers containing vinyl cation copolymers; cationic copolymers containing acrylic acid or its derivatives, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl- 2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquaternium-2, quaternized chitosan or mixtures thereof; wherein in the composition the weight ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the vitamin B3 group compounds is from 1: 7 to 1: 100. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cation-containing polymer is an ampholytic polymer or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is an ampholytic copolymer containing acrylic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is a cationic polysaccharide or derivatives thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is selected from the group consisting of cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic polysaccharide derivatives of guar gum and copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethylammonium chloride or mixtures thereof. ♦ * Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of its polymer comprising cations, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the weight ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the vitamin B3 compound is from 1: 8 to 1:50. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising from 3% to 20% polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. Cosmetic skin treatment method, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to the skin. Use of a cation-containing polymer, or mixtures thereof, for reducing the feeling of stickyness, irritation or lightening in a skin care composition comprising a compound of the vitamin B3 family, or mixtures thereof. Use of a composition comprising a vitamin B3 group compound or mixtures thereof and cation-containing polymers or mixtures thereof, wherein the composition comprises a weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to vitamin B3 group compounds from 1: 7 to 1: 100 in such application where the composition is left on the skin.