CN116419741A - Composition for conditioning keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for conditioning keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116419741A
CN116419741A CN202080106876.8A CN202080106876A CN116419741A CN 116419741 A CN116419741 A CN 116419741A CN 202080106876 A CN202080106876 A CN 202080106876A CN 116419741 A CN116419741 A CN 116419741A
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composition
composition according
cationic
present
thickener
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郭远骥
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones

Abstract

To a composition for conditioning keratin materials comprising (a) spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica; (B) At least one cationic polymer comprising a cationic cellulose polymer (B-1), and (C) at least one thickener comprising a refreshing thickener (C-1), said refreshing thickener (C-1) being selected from vinyl polymers.

Description

Composition for conditioning keratin materials
Technical Field
The present invention relates to compositions for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair together with the scalp. The invention also relates to a method for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp or the hair together with the scalp, using the composition according to the invention.
Background
Keratin materials are widely found on human surfaces such as skin, scalp and hair. For a long time, many people have sought a fresh body surface to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Among them, many are particularly concerned with the sticky/greasy feel. Accordingly, various products have been developed to cope with the sticky or greasy feeling of humans.
Among keratin materials on the body surface, the scalp is particularly vulnerable to oils and fats. Various formulations have been developed for use with sticky or greasy scalp, including those provided in separate forms, such as lotions, sprays, and the like, as well as those incorporated into conventional products for use with hair and/or scalp, such as shampoos, leave-in and/or rinse-off conditioners.
Various conditioning compositions have been developed primarily for use with hair, which are generally used to improve or restore the natural luster, shine, smoothness and softness of hair. When used in the context of shampooing, a commonly accepted method of conditioning hair is shampooing, then rinsing the hair, and then applying the conditioner composition, optionally followed by a second rinse.
Thus, there remains a need in the art to develop new compositions for caring for primarily the scalp, especially without a greasy feel.
Disclosure of Invention
Silica is known for use in cosmetics, for example as a conventional filler, or as a matrix for absorbing lake dyes. Derivatives of silica and/or modified silica are also used. However, any effect on (modified) silica to address the greasy state of keratin materials is unknown in the art. Through intensive studies, the present inventors have surprisingly found that by using a specific modified silica in a specific form (in particular modified in terms of both structure and chemical bonds), sebum migration on keratin materials, in particular on the scalp, and thus the greasy feel, can be effectively inhibited.
Accordingly, one subject of the present invention is a leave-on composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:
spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent;
at least one cationic polymer, and
at least one thickener.
The composition according to the invention is particularly useful for conditioning keratin materials, for example, in particular for scalp care. Thus, the compositions of the present invention may be in various forms, e.g., lotions, creams, sprays, etc., for direct application to the scalp, application to the skin, or application to the hair along with the scalp.
Embodiments of the invention
Throughout the specification, including the claims, the term "comprising" is to be understood as synonymous with "including at least one" unless otherwise indicated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout the specification including the claims, embodiments defined by "comprising" and the like should be understood to include preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of …" and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of …".
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," having a meaning conventionally known in the art, such as within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" represents 9% -11% and "about 2%" represents 1.8% -2.2%).
Throughout the specification, including the claims, a "keratin material" according to the present invention is skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are locations which are susceptible to a sticky or greasy feel, such as the scalp or the skin, and/or locations on which a sticky or greasy feel has an effect, such as the hair.
Throughout the specification, including the claims, "care" and the like according to the present invention should be understood to encompass any means of caring for, maintaining or improving the condition of keratin materials, including not only conventional means of caring for keratin materials such as the skin or scalp, but also any means known to be useful for conditioning and/or cleansing keratin materials such as the hair or scalp.
In this application, unless explicitly mentioned otherwise, amounts, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(A) Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent;
(B) At least one cationic polymer comprising a cationic cellulose polymer (B-1); and
(C) At least one thickener comprising a refreshing thickener (C-1) selected from vinyl polymers.
The present invention thus provides the use of spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica for alleviating the greasy feel of keratin materials on the body surface, in particular the scalp.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica (A)
The composition of the present invention comprises spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a).
According to the present invention, "spherical particles" refer to particles that are spherical or at least approximately spherical, and/or particles that have an aspect ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, for example about 0.95 to 1.05. For example, one skilled in the art can determine whether the particles are spherical based on conventional knowledge. In particular, for a given silica, one of ordinary skill in the art can distinguish spherical shapes from other shapes of plates, rods, powders, bars, irregular shapes, etc., and from amorphous analogs.
According to the present invention, silica needs to be in a "homogeneously dispersed" state. For example, the formation of dispersions, emulsions, solutions, etc. having definitions and/or standards known in the art may represent the achievement of a "uniformly dispersed" state. Nevertheless, it should be appreciated that once one of ordinary skill in the art can determine that a state is significantly different from a "non-uniformly dispersed" state, the state may be considered to substantially satisfy the "uniformly dispersed" state.
According to the invention, "lipophilically modified" silica refers to silica that has been lipophilically modified. According to the invention, lipophilic modification refers to any organic modification capable of hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment of silica. For example, the silica may be treated with a siloxane compound, such as hydroxydimethylsiloxane (or other silane, such as silazane, etc.), by which the silica surface is treatedThe silanol groups of the above and silanol groups of the silicone compound undergo condensation. Among these, usable examples of "lipophilic modified" silica may be silylated silica and dimethylsilylated silica, such as silylated silica, which may be named for example
Figure BDA0004206214460000031
TL-10 is a silylated silica available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION company.
According to the present invention, the spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica may exhibit an oil absorption capacity of 500ml/100g or more, 600ml/100g or more, or even 700ml/100g or more when incorporated into the composition.
The spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, or preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymer (B)
The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one cationic polymer.
The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which groups may form part of the polymer backbone or may be carried by pendant substituents directly attached thereto. Preferably, the composition of the invention may comprise cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannans gums. For the purposes of the present invention, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic cellulose.
Cationic cellulose Polymer (B-1)
The cationic polymer (B) according to the present invention comprises a cationic cellulose polymer (B-1).
In the cationic cellulose polymer, the present inventionThe composition comprises a cationic cellulose copolymer or cellulose derivative grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, as described for example in us patent 4131576, and hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as for example hydroxymethyl cellulose (in particular grafted with methacryloyl ethyl trimethyl ammonium, methacryloyl amino propyl trimethyl ammonium, dimethyl diallyl ammonium or hydroxypropyl trialkyl ammonium salts), hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose, such as for example 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, may be mentioned. More particularly, the commercial products meeting this definition are those sold under the name National Starch company
Figure BDA0004206214460000041
L200 and->
Figure BDA0004206214460000042
H100, poly Li Anyan-10 (hydroxyethyl cellulose-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ether) is sold, for example, by KCI under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000043
The product sold by 400KC, polyquaternium-6 (polydiallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) is for example sold under the name Merquat by Nalco TM 100 polymer, product sold. Among these, particular preference is given to polyquaternium polymers, such as polyquaternium-7, 11, 15, 16, 22, 39, 47, 55, 67 and 76.
The cationic cellulose polymer (B-1) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight, or preferably 0.1 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cationic Polymer (B-2)
In addition to the cationic cellulose polymer (B-1), the cationic polymer (B) may also comprise an additional cationic polymer (B-2).
Cationic galactomannan gums can be used in particular as additional cationic polymer (B-2).
Cationic galactomannan gums are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. nos. 3589578 and 4031307, and guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups may be mentioned. Guar modified with, for example, 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g., chloride) is used. Such products are sold, inter alia, by Rhodia company under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 (INCI: hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride).
The additional cationic polymer (B-2) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight of one or more cationic polymers, preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight, or preferably 0.1 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickening agent (C)
As the leave-on type, it is preferable that the leave-on product be uniformly distributed on the scalp or uniformly distributed on the hair together with the scalp. It is therefore preferred to add at least one thickener (C) to the composition according to the invention in order to adjust the viscosity of the resulting product and to promote a lamellar distribution or formation of a uniform film of the composition on the scalp or hair together with the scalp.
Non-limiting examples of thickeners (C) include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums.
Fresh thickener (C-1)
The inventors have surprisingly found that the freshness of the roots of hair when applying the composition according to the invention, in particular for leave-on conditioner products for the scalp and/or for the hair together with the scalp, can be unexpectedly improved when the thickener (C) comprises a fresh thickener (C-1). Preferably, the refreshing thickener (C-1) is selected from vinyl polymers.
Useful vinyl polymers may include, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone, a copolymer of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, a copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
The fresh-keeping thickener (C-1) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, or preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional thickener (C-2)
In addition to the fresh thickener (C-1), the thickener (C) may also contain additional thickeners (C-2), such as those that increase the viscosity of the composition without significantly altering the effectiveness of one or more active ingredients within the composition. In addition, the additional thickener (C-2) may additionally increase the composition stability.
Examples of carboxylic acid polymers include crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbons. The carbon double bonds are derived from polyols. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol (e.g., from lubrisol
Figure BDA0004206214460000061
ULTREZ 10POLYMER)。
Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers for use as additional thickener (C-2) include nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers, including polyacrylamides, isoparaffins and laureth-7, acrylamides. And substituted multiblock copolymers of acrylamide with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acids.
Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides for use as additional thickener (C-2) include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is alkyl substituted cellulose wherein the hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is then C 10 -C 30 The linear or branched alkyl groups are further modified with ether linkages. These polymers are typically C 10 -C 30 Ethers of straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Which is a kind ofPolysaccharides useful therefor include linear scleroglucans containing (1-3) linked glucose units, with each of the three units having (1-6) linked glucose.
Non-limiting examples of gums for use as additional thickener (C-2) include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, pullulan, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
The additional thickener (C-2), if present, may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 3 wt%, or preferably 0.1 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Medium/solvent (D)
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent comprising water and/or an organic medium/solvent for component (D). For the purposes of the present invention, component (D) serves as a medium for spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica of component (A) and, if present, other insoluble components, in order to disperse them as homogeneously as possible, and as a solvent for the soluble components, if present.
Water and its preparation method
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise various amounts of water. For low viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of leave-on lotions, relatively large amounts of water may be used. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention is preferably from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, or from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For high viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of leave-on creams, relatively low amounts of water may be used. The high viscosity composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water in a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (I). The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention is preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, or from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic medium/solvent
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic media/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic media/solvents (solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).
Examples of organic media/solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, mono-or dihydric alcohols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexanediol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyhydric alcohol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C 1 -C 4 Alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
When present, the organic medium/solvent is typically present at 0.1 to 40 wt%, and preferably 1 to 30 wt%, or 5 to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Conditioning active agent (E)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one conditioning active (E) which is beneficial for conditioning effects, in particular for leave-on conditioner products useful for keratin materials.
The conditioning active (E) of the present invention may refer to an ingredient that enhances the look and feel of scalp/hair by increasing hair body, softness or luster, or by improving the texture of damaged hair by physical or chemical treatments. Conventional scalp/hair conditioning actives are well suited for the present invention. Such conditioning actives include non-silicone cationic surfactants, silicones, fatty acid esters, and other ingredients known in the art to have desirable hair conditioning properties.
Among them, cationic surfactants are widely used as conditioning agents. The ability of such cationic surfactants to provide conditioning benefits to the hair is due to the hydrophobicity of the alkyl chain and the cationic charge of the polar head group. Examples of known cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds containing at least one long alkyl chain in the molecule. The term "non-silicone cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has no silicone atoms in its structure and is positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the present invention. In the compositions of the present invention, the surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functional groups.
When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, it may be an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and a C1-C30 monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, including an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, or an ester of a C1-C7 dibasic acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
The conditioning actives (E) of the present invention may also be those that provide a cooling and/or refreshing sensation, such as menthol and its derivatives, such as ethyl menthane carboxamide, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol.
The conditioning active (E) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, or preferably from 0.02% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Solubilizer (F)
Spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) can be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in a water-alcohol system. Thus, the at least one solubilizer (F) is preferably contained in the aqueous phase. For good dispersion purposes, the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof, more preferably a complex of solubilizers.
Examples of useful nonionic surfactants may include esters of polyols and fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e., derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated units, such as C 8 -C 24 Glycerol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; c (C) 8 -C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty acid glycerides which may be mentioned in particular include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl oleate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate), and more particularly polyethylene glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, for example, uniqema under the name
Figure BDA0004206214460000091
165 glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and Goldschmidt under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000092
Products containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) are sold.
Fatty acids of glucose or alkyl glucose which may be mentioned in particularEsters include glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearates such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, fatty acid esters of methyl glucoside, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate); esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular Amerchol company under the name
Figure BDA0004206214460000093
SS sold products, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), for example by Amerchol company under the name
Figure BDA0004206214460000094
Products sold as E-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular by Amerchol under the name>
Figure BDA0004206214460000095
SSE-20, and the name +.A. A product sold by Goldschmidt company>
Figure BDA0004206214460000096
PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned may include sucrose palmitate stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). Examples which may be mentioned include ethers containing from 1 to 200, and preferably from 2 to 100, oxyethylene groups, such as the ethers under the CTFA name cetostearyl ether-20 and cetostearyl ether-30, and mixtures thereof.
Sugar ethers which may be mentioned in particular are alkyl polyglucosides, for example decyl glucoside, for example Kao Chemicals under the name
Figure BDA0004206214460000101
10, henkel company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000102
2000 and SEPPIC company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000103
NS 10 sells products; octyl/decyl glucoside, e.g. by SEPPIC company under the name
Figure BDA0004206214460000104
CG 110 or by BASF company under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000105
A product sold by GD 70; lauryl glucoside, e.g. Henkel Corp. Under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000106
1200N and->
Figure BDA0004206214460000107
1200 products sold; coco glucosides, such as those sold by Henkel under the name plant 818/UP; cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example by the company SEPPIC under the name +.>
Figure BDA0004206214460000108
68. Under the name Goldschmidt Co
Figure BDA0004206214460000109
CG90 and by Henkel corporation under the name +.>
Figure BDA00042062144600001010
KE3302 is sold; peanut-based glucosides, e.g. in the form of mixtures of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with peanut-based glucosides, under the name +.>
Figure BDA00042062144600001011
202, selling; cocoyl ethyl glucoside, e.g. in the form of a mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35/65), is known by the name +.>
Figure BDA00042062144600001012
82 are sold; and mixtures thereof.
Polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil may be mentioned additionally as examples of useful solubilisers.
The solubilizer (F) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, for example 0.05% to 3%, or 0.1 to 1%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional additives
According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin materials, such as the skin, scalp or hair. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise various ingredients commonly used in compositions for conditioning keratin materials, such as additional surfactants including nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, humectants, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents (anti-seborrhea agents), agents for preventing hair loss and/or promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, acidulants, opacifiers, pearlescers or pearlescers (pearlescent or nacreous agent), antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.
A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication 2004/0170586, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other examples of these additional ingredients can be found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed.2002).
The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Those skilled in the art can make various selections of these additives to prepare a composition having desired properties, such as consistency or texture. In particular, the additive(s) and amounts thereof, if used, are specifically determined according to the particular product/application thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skin care conditioner, etc.
These additives may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Method and use
The composition according to the invention may be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. However, it will be appreciated that the person skilled in the art may choose the preparation method based on his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the components used, e.g. their solubility in the carrier, and the intended application of the composition or kit.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be used for caring keratin materials, in particular the scalp, or the hair together with the scalp. The use may be represented by a method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the invention is preferably used for formulating hair conditioner products, scalp care products or even skin care products. Furthermore, from the detailed discussion above, it should be understood that the compositions according to the present invention, and thus the conditioner product and/or shampoo product, may be free of silicone oil.
The keratin fiber conditioning composition of the present invention can be used in the form of leave-on products and can be formulated into a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, lotions, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
The keratin fibre conditioning composition as described above can be used to condition keratin fibres such as the hair together with the scalp by conventional means, depending on the form of application of the composition.
For example, when used as leave-on conditioning agents after shampooing, the compositions of the present invention may be applied by a method comprising the steps of:
(i) Shampoo; and
(ii) An effective amount of the composition is applied to hair for conditioning the hair without further rinsing the hair.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which illustrate particularly advantageous embodiments.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without, however, limiting the scope.
Examples
The amounts/concentrations of ingredients in the following compositions/formulations are expressed in weight percent relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation.
Materials:
silylated silica: available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION
Figure BDA0004206214460000122
TL-10, spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica;
other materials not described herein are each commercially available.
Example 1
Preparation of compositions a and a':
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0004206214460000121
Figure BDA0004206214460000131
The above composition a is prepared according to the preparation methods known in the art.
6 volunteers used composition A and evaluated the refreshing sensation brought about by composition A, with less greasy sensation of the roots and with a marked bulge of roots than the control without addition of either component (B) or (C).
Example 2
The effect of the composition on grease inhibition was determined using a sebum migration test, comprising the steps of:
step 1: the hair samples were rinsed with standard shampoo DOP and with test product according to the known procedure RC-MCI-OIP-003B
Step 2: 100 μl of colored artificial sebum (red) was applied over a selected 3cm area of the top area of the hair sample.
Step 3: the hair samples were hung on an iron stand at 30℃and 50% humidity.
Step 4: images of hair samples were taken at 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours and 24 hours.
Step 5: the total sebum migration area was calculated at each time point using image analysis.
Sebum migration results are provided below:
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0004206214460000132
For the sebum migration test, a smaller sebum migration area means more inhibition of grease. Thus, it is clear that the comparison a' using lipophilic modified silica spherical particles uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent can bring about high grease inhibition, which is reflected by a low sebum migration area. It was observed that even lower sebum migration areas were generated when composition a was used.
Example 3
6 volunteers 25-45 years old were allowed to apply composition a daily to the hair and scalp for 3 days. The score for the sticky or greasy feel after administration of composition a was given daily with the score for the sticky or greasy feel before administration of composition A B as baseline and the average score is shown in table 3.
Volunteers gave a score for a greasy feeling, wherein:
0 represents unchanged;
1 means general improvement;
2 means a significant improvement; and
3 indicates substantially no greasy feel.
The average scores of 6 volunteers were regarded as the immediate status, 24 hours and 48 hours, and the average per day was calculated. The average score for a total of 3 days is provided in table 3 below.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Figure BDA0004206214460000141
Note that: for convenience, each average score in table 3 is rounded to an integer.
Referring to table 3, the lower the score, the less sticky or greasy feel. Composition a was observed to exhibit a very good and long-term anti-tack or anti-greasy feel.

Claims (17)

1. A composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:
(A) Spherical particles of lipophilic modified silica uniformly dispersed in a medium/solvent,
(B) At least one cationic polymer comprising a cationic cellulose polymer (B-1), and
(C) At least one thickener comprising a refreshing thickener (C-1) selected from vinyl polymers.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) comprise silylated silica and dimethylsilylated silica.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical particles of the lipophilic modified silica (a) are present in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt%, or preferably 0.3 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic cellulose polymer (B-1) is selected from cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, for example polyquaternium polymers, such as one selected from polyquaternium-6, 7, 10, 11, 15, 16, 22, 39, 47, 55, 67 and 76.
5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic cellulose polymer (B-1) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt%, or preferably 0.1 to 0.6 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional cationic polymer (B-2) chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, such as or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fresh thickener (C-1) is selected from vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fresh-thickening agent (C-1) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 3 wt%, or preferably 0.1 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional thickener (C-2), said additional thickener (C-2) being selected from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of said acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid, such as carbomers.
10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one medium/solvent component (D) selected from water and alcohols, wherein the alcohols are preferably selected from C2-C10 monohydric alcohols, C2-C10 diols and C3-C6 polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol.
11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the medium/solvent (D) comprises both water and an alcohol, wherein water is present in the composition in an amount of 40 wt% to 99 wt%, more preferably 50 wt% to 90 wt%, or 60 wt% to 80 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition, and/or alcohol is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 40 wt%, more preferably 1 wt% to 30 wt%, or 5 wt% to 20 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition.
12. The composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one conditioning active (E) selected from the group consisting of non-silicone cationic surfactants, fatty acid esters and menthol and derivatives thereof.
13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the conditioning active (E) is present in an amount of from 0.001 wt% to 1 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt% to 0.5 wt%, or preferably from 0.02 wt% to 0.2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one solubilising agent (F) selected from the group consisting of glycerides of C18-C24 fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sugar esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the solubilizing agent (F) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, such as 0.05% to 3%, or 0.1% to 1%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the weight of the composition.
16. The composition of any of the preceding claims, which is free of silicone-based oils.
17. A leave-on keratin material care product comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, useful for caring for the skin, scalp and/or hair.
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