MXPA01008471A - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising:a) from about 6%to from about 20%of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof, and b) a cation containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof;wherein said composition comprises less than 4%of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. The compositions of the invention display high moisturisation efficacy without the associated high levels of tacks, as well as good rheological, absorption and insulation properties, in addition to skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions.

In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions with high wetting efficiency without high levels of tack. The compositions also exhibit good rub and absorption characteristics in use, as well as excellent benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the fibrous proteins of keratin and collagen that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the outermost of these layers, called the stratum corneum, is composed of 25 nm protein bundles surrounded by 8 nm thick layers. Typically, anionic surfactants and organic solvents penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and destroy its integrity by delipidization (ie, removal of lipids from the stratum corneum). This destruction of the topography of the surface of the skin leads to a rough sensation and can finally allow the surfactant or the solvent to interact with the keratin, causing irritation. It is currently recognized that it is important to maintain the appropriate water gradient through the stratum corneum for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered the plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate, there is insufficient water in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to properly laminate the tissue, and the skin begins to peel and become spicy. Also the permeability of the skin decreases somewhat when there is an inadequate amount of water through the stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to finally absorb three to five times its own weight of bound water. This swells and wrinkles the skin and results in an approximately two to three times increase in the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules. In this way, there is a need for compositions that help the stratum corneum to maintain its barrier functions and water retention with optimal performance, despite the harmful interactions that the skin may encounter during washing, work and recreation. The desirable properties of the cosmetic compositions in cream and lotion are good skin feeling, water retention, wetting, absorption and rubbing characteristics. The skin feel of a composition, perceived by the consumer as softness of the skin or smoothness of the skin, is related to the emollients of a composition that form a film or layer after its application to the skin. The absorption and rub characteristics of a composition refer to its physical behavior under mechanical stress, which is affected by the rheological profile of the composition. It is known that many cosmetic cream and lotion compositions provide varying degrees of emolliency, and barrier benefits and water retention (wetting). To provide high moisture in the skin, it is necessary to incorporate polyhydric alcohol type humectants such as glycerin in a composition. However, compositions for the skin with high levels of polyhydric alcohols, and therefore high levels of wetting, are perceived by the consumer as unpleasant, since such compositions form very sticky residues when applied to the skin. In this way, the need persists for compositions that show low levels of stickiness or adherence, while giving high levels of wetting, as well as giving excellent benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness. WO97 / 27838 describes compositions comprising a polymeric film-forming agent, for example Polyquaternium-10, a hydroxy acid, a physical exfoliant and a vehicle for use in improving the smoothness of the skin. It is disclosed that the incorporation of polymeric film-forming agents in compositions comprising hydroxy acids has an unexpected effect on the ability of the resulting compositions to increase the benefits of skin smoothness. In US-A-5, 103,763, polymeric film-forming agents such as polyquaternium-10 are described as skin-sensing compounds useful in skin care compositions which are resistant to removal when the skin is washed. The examples describe compositions comprising 4% glycerin and 0.2% Polyquaternium-10. The compositions may also comprise emollients in combination with cationic surfactants. In addition, compositions comprising evaporable solvents, film-forming polymeric agents and topically active agents are described in US-A-4,938,951. It is disclosed that the compositions provide an improvement in the effective activity of a topically active agent and, specifically, that the film-forming polymer has the ability to increase the effective activity of the topically active agent. Personal cleansing compositions comprising water-soluble surfactants, glycerin and cationic film-forming polymers such as polyquaternium-10 are described, for example, in WO96 / 17917 and WO96 / 17916. However, these compositions also comprise 4% or more of anionic or amphoteric surfactants and are designed to be used as a rinse product. It has now been found inseperably that by incorporating cation-containing polymers into a cosmetic deposition composition comprising effective levels of a polyhydric alcohol, a composition with low levels of tack or stickiness is obtained. The compositions also show good water absorption, isolation and retention properties, as well as benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness, and excellent wetting characteristics.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic deposition composition suitable for topical administration to the skin is provided, comprising: (a) about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and (b) a cation-containing polymer, selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; wherein said composition comprises less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. The compositions of the invention exhibit high wetting efficiency without associated high levels of tackiness, as well as good rheological, absorption and isolation properties, as well as benefits of skin feel, softness of the skin and smoothness of the skin.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic method of treating the skin, which comprises applying to the skin a composition in accordance with the present invention. According to a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, to reduce tackiness in a skin care composition. comprising about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures of several thereof. According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a composition comprising about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures of several thereof; and a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, for a skin care reservoir application.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention comprise a polyhydric alcohol together with an essential component of cation-containing polymer, as well as various optional ingredients as indicated below. All levels and relationships are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified based on average weight. The term "sticky" or "stickiness", used herein with respect to a reservoir composition, means the ability of a composition to lightly stick to the skin surfaces where the composition has been applied, after the application of slight pressure. and in the course of a short period. The term "adherent" or "adhesion" as used herein, is a term frequently used by consumers to describe their perception of the stickiness, whether real or perceived, of a composition. As used herein, the term "deposit" with respect to skin care compositions means that they are intended to be used without a rinse step, so that after applying the composition to the skin, the deposit composition remains on the skin preferably for a period of at least about 15 minutes, preferably at least about 30 minutes, preferably at least about 1 hour, and most preferably at least several hours, for example up to about 12 hours. The term "cation-containing polymer" as used herein, means a polymer having 2% or more, preferably 5% or more, or preferably 10% or more, based on molar weight, of monomers containing cationic charge at pH 4. The term "ampholytic" as used herein, means a polymer comprising cationic and anionic monomers.

The term "copolymer" as used herein means the combination of more than one chemically different monomer. The term "zwitterionic" as used herein, means a compound that carries both positive and negative charges, and exists as a dipolar ion on a broad pH scale. The term "amphoteric" as used herein means a compound that exhibits cationic behavior at low pH and anionic behavior at high pH. At intermediate pH, called the isoelectric point, the compound carries both positive and negative charges; that is, it is a dipolar ion. The term "basic" as used herein means a polymer that exhibits increasing cationic charge as the pH decreases. The term "skin conditioning agent" as used herein means a material that is capable of providing a cosmetic conditioning benefit to the skin, such as wetting (ie, the ability to retain water or moisture in the skin), Emolliency, visual improvement of the skin surface, smoothing of the skin, softening of the skin and improvement of the skin sensation. The term "non-occlusive" as used herein means that the described component does not substantially block the passage of air and moisture through the surface of the skin. The present compositions can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases, in a continuous aqueous phase.

Polyhydric alcohols As an essential component, the compositions herein comprise at least one polyhydric alcohol. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 6% to about 20%, preferably from about 7% to about 15%, and especially from about 8% to about 12% by weight of the polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof. several of them. Suitable polyhydric alcohols for use herein include polyalkylene glycols and, preferably, alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof; sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, erythritol, treitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol (for example, 1,3-butylene glycol), hexanetriol (for example 1, 2,6-hexanetriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, glycerin ethoxylated and propoxylated glycerin. Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof; hexanotriol, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof. The highly preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are glycerin and polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. From the viewpoint of the provision of improved tackiness benefits, the weight ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the polyhydric alcohol is preferably in the range of about 1: 200 to about 1: 1, and preferably on the scale of about 1: 100 to about 1: 5.

Cation-containing polymer As a further essential component, the compositions herein comprise at least one cation-containing polymer as defined above, selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, and especially from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of the cation-containing polymer, or mixtures of several of the same. Preferably, the cation-containing polymers herein are soluble, dispersible or swellable in water. By "water-swellable" is meant the ability of cation-containing polymers to increase in volume or to expand in aqueous solution. Cationic polymers suitable for the compositions herein include cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof; homo- or cationic copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; cationic copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone; cationic copolymers comprising acrylic acid or derivatives thereof; homo- or cationic copolymers of ethanamium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, Polyquatemium-2 and quaternized chitosan; or mixtures thereof. Preferred cationic polymers for the present compositions are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof. Suitable non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include the following: cellulose; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxyethylcellulose; cationic cellulose derivatives having a molecular weight in the range of 120,000 to 2,000,000, including quaternary ammonium groups such as for example a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose which reacted with an epoxide substituted with trimethylammonium, more specifically, omega-ether cellulose modified with O- [2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium) propyl] -omega-hydroxypiol (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) chloride, known in the industry by commercial designation (CTFA) of Polyquatemium-10, commercially available from Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Connecticut, USA) as "JR" and "LR", for example, "JR-125", "JR-400", "JR-30M", "LR-500"; copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride / hydroxyethylcellulose, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-4, available under the names "Celquat L 200" or "Celquat H-100" from National Starch Company (Salisbury, North Carolina, USA), and polymeric salts of quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose which reacted with an epoxide substituted with lauryldimethylammonium "Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200", referred to in the industry as Polyquaternium-24, available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, New Jersey, USA); starches, for example cationic starches such as for example starch 2-hydroxy-3-trimethyl-ammonium chloride propyl ether, commercially available under the tradename "Sta-Loc 300" and "Sta-Loc 400" from Staley Inc. (Decateur, Illinois, USA), which has been reacted with quaternary amines to form ethers in a hydroxyl position, hydroxyalkyl starches, polymers based on arabinose monomers, polymers derived from xylose, polymers derived from fucose, polymers derived from fructose, polymers based in sugars containing acid such as galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid, polymers based on amine sugars such as galactosamine and glucosamine, particularly acetylglucosamine, polymers based on polyalcohols of 5- or 6-membered rings, polymers based on galactose, and polymers based on monomers of crafty. Suitable cationic polysaccharide gum derivatives include polymer derivatives based on galactomannan copolymer, known as guar gum. For example, compounds such as hydroxypropyl gums, commercially available under the names "Jaguar HP-60", "Jaguar HP-8", "Jaguar HP-79", "Jaguar HP-120", "Jaguar HP-200", from Rhóne-Poulenc, or "Galactasol", available from Aqualon; hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride of hydroxypropylguar, commercially available under the tradename "Jaguar C-162" from Rhóne-Poulenc; or polymeric compounds such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available minds for example under the tradenames "Jaguar C-14S", "Jaguar C-17", "Jaguar C-13S" from Rhóne-Poulenc, "N-Hance" , for example "N-Hance 2196" by Aqualon; Hercules Inc. (Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands), or "Cosmedia Guar C-261" by Henkel Inc. (Teaneck, New Jersey, E.U.A.). Suitable homo- or cationic copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride for use herein, are polt (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), commercially available under the trade designation Polyquatemium-6 or under the names "Merquat 100" from Calgon (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA), " Agequat 400"from CPS Chemical Company (West Memphis, Arizona, USA), or" Mirapol 100", from Rhóne-Poulenc; and the quaternary ammonium polymer salt consisting of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-7 or the "Merquat 550" trademarks of Calgon (Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, E.U.A.). Suitable cationic polymers comprising vinyl pyrrolidone for use herein include the solution of diethyl sulfate of the copolymer of N, N-dimethylaminoethylmethacrylic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-11 or under the trademark "Gafquat 755N" from ISP (Wayne, New Jersey, USA); the quaternary ammonium polymer salt formed of methyl vinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone, commercially available under the designation Polyquatemium-16 or the trademark "Luviquat FC 370" from BASF (Parsippany, New Jersey, E.U.A.); the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquatemium-28 or the trademark "Gafquat HS-100" from ISP (Wayne, New Jersey, E.U.A.); the quaternary ammonium polymer salt consisting of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized imidazoline monomers, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-44 or the trademark "Luviquat MS-370" from BASF (Parsippany, New Jersey, E.U.A.); and the quaternary ammonium salt prepared by the reaction of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-46 or the "Luviquat Hold" trademark from BASF (Parsippany, New Jersey, E.U.A.). Suitable cationic copolymers comprising acrylic acid or derivatives thereof include the quaternary ammonium polymer salt prepared by reaction of ethyl methacrylate / abiethyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquatemium -12; the polymeric material; and the copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and DMAPA monomers, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaterniurn-43 or the trademark "Bozequat 4000" from Societe Francaise Hoescht.

Suitable homo- or cationic copolymers of ethanamium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, useful herein, are the polymeric materials commercially available under the trade designation from Polyquaternium-45 or the brand "Plex 3073L" from Rohm GmbH (Germany); the polymeric material, ethanamium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-32 or the "Saleare SC92" brand from Allied Colloids (Bradford, N. Yorkshire, United Kingdom); and the polymeric material, ethanamium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] chloride, homopolymer, commercially available under the trade designation of Polyquaternium-37 or the trademark "Saleare SC95" from Allied Colloids (Bradford, N. Yorkshire, United Kingdom). Other suitable cationic polymers, useful herein, are poly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) (dimethyliminio) -1, 3-propanediylimino-carbonyl-imino-1,2-propanediyl dichloride (dimethyliminio) -1, 2- Ethanediyl, known in the industry as Polyquaternium-2, and commercially available under the Mirapol A-15 brand from Rhóne-Poulenc; and dihydroxypropyl chitosantrimonium chloride, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquatemium-29 or the Kytamer brand KC from Amerchol. Amphoteric polymers suitable for the compositions herein include combinations of tertiary amine monomers combined with anionic monomers, and may further include nonionic monomers, for example, a methacrylamidopropyldimethylammonium / acrylic acid copolymer; and polymers derived from methacrylamidoethylcarboxymethylhydroxyethylamine monomers, as shown below: Suitable basic polymers for the compositions herein include homopolymers of tertiary amine derivatives and copolymers with nonionic monomers. Examples of suitable materials include the polyvinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, prepared from vinylpyrrolidone monomers and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, commercially available under the trade designation PVP / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, or the trademark "Copolymer 845/937/958" from ISP (Wayne, New Jersey, USA); amine-derived polymers such as ethyleneimine polymers that conform to the general formula (CH2CH2NH) n, such as PEI-10, wherein n has an average value of 10, commercially available under the trademark "Polymin FG" from BASF; PEI-15, where n has an average value of 15, commercially available under the trademark "Epomin SP-006" from Aceto; PEI-45, where n has an average value of 45, commercially available under the trademark "Epomin SP-018" from Aceto; or PEI-1400, where n has an average value of 1400, commercially available under the "Nalco 634" brand of Nalco. Suitable zwitterionic polymers for the compositions herein include polymers derived from a methacrylamidopropylbetaine monomer, such as a copolymer of methacrylamidopropylbetaine and a nonionic monomer. An example of such a polymer is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropylbetaine. Preferred cation-containing polymers for the compositions herein are cationic polymers. Preferred cationic polymers for use herein are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic rubber polysaccharide derivatives, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred cationic polymeric film forming materials of the compositions of the present invention are selected from Polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar gums, or mixtures thereof. It is preferable to use Polyquaternium-10 in the present invention. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant; preferably less than 2%, and most preferably less than 1% of an anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric. In a preferred embodiment, when the compositions of the present invention comprise an anionic surfactant, the composition has a ratio of cation-containing polymer to anionic surfactant, of more than 1. In a further preferred embodiment, the present compositions may comprise from about 0% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 1%, of a Ce to C30 fatty acid.

POLYMER THICKENING AGENTS In a preferred additional embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one polymeric thickening agent. The polymeric thickening agents useful herein preferably have a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000; preferably more than 50,000, and especially more than 100,000. When polymeric thickening agents are employed in the present compositions, the ion levels of monovalent to multivalent metals should preferably be less than 1%, preferably less than 0.25%, and less than 0.05% is highly preferred, so as not to interfere unduly with the stability of the polymers. In general, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.01% to about 10%; preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%; and about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition, the polymeric thickening agent, or mixtures thereof are most preferred. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that in compositions comprising polyol-type humectants and polymeric thickening agents, a physical association of the polyol-type humectant with any polymeric thickening agent present in the composition may occur. This physical association between the polyol type humectant and the polymeric thickening agent can additionally increase the tackiness already exhibited in compositions comprising high levels of polyol type humectants alone. Preferred polymeric thickening agents for use herein include nonionic thickeners and anionic thickening agents, or mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic thickening agents include polyacrylamide polymers, entangled poly (N-vinylpyrrolidones), polysaccharides, synthetic and natural gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol. Suitable anionic thickening agents include copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate, carboxyvinyl polymers and crosslinked copolymers of alkylvinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. Particularly preferred thickeners for use herein are non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof. For use herein, nonionic polyacrylamide polymers are particularly preferred. Polymers of polya ilamide. The nonionic polyacrylamide polymers useful herein are the substituted, branched or unbranched polyacrylamides. These polymers are water dispersible nonionic polymers which may be formed from a variety of monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide, which are unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C-1-C5). Preferred are acrylate amides and methacrylate amides in which the amide nitrogen is unsubstituted or is substituted with one or two C1-C5 alkyl groups (preferably: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide and N, N-dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are generally described in the U.S. Patent. No. 4,963,348 to Bolich Jr. et al., Issued October 16, 1990, incorporated herein by reference. Optionally, these copolymers can be formed using conventional neutral entanglement agents such as dialkenyl compounds. The use of such crosslinking agents for cationic polymers is described in the U.S. Patent. No. 4,628,078 to Glover et al., Issued December 9, 1986, and the U.S. Patent. No. 4,599,379, to Flesher et al., Issued July 8, 1986, both incorporated herein by reference. These nonionic copolymers have a molecular weight greater than about 1,000,000, preferably greater than about 1,500,000, and varying up to about 30,000,000. Preferably, as a result of being synthesized by reverse phase emulsion polymerization, these nonionic polyacrylamides are previously dispersed in a water immiscible solvent such as mineral oil and the like, which contains a high HLB surfactant (HLB of about 7 to about 10), which helps to facilitate the water dispersibility of polyacrylamide . The non-ionic polymer having the designation CTFA: polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation, is very preferred for use herein. Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include the multiple block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals Inc. (Patterson, New Jersey).

Poly (N-vinylpyrrolidones) interlaced. The interlaced polyvinyl (N-pyrrolidones) useful herein include those described in the U.S. Patent. No. 5,139,770, to Shih et al., Issued August 18, 1992, and the U.S. Patent. No. 5,073,614, Shih et al., Issued December 17, 1991. These gelling agents typically contain about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of an entanglement agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers. of terminal diols containing about 2 to 12 carbon atoms; di-vinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing about 2 to 600 units; dienes having from about 6 to 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, pentaerythritol vinyl and allyl esters, and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity of about 25,000 mPa.s (cps) at about 40,000 mPa.s (cps), when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C using a Brookfield RVT viscometer with # 6 needle at 10 rpm. Examples of these commercially available polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179 and ACP-1180, available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, New Jersey).

Polysaccharides A large variety of polysaccharides is suitable for use here. By "polysaccharide" is meant a gelling agent that contains a backbone of repeated sugar units (ie, carbohydrate). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetatepropionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose microcrystalline, sodium cellulosulfate and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are alkyl-substituted celluloses. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then modified with a C10-C30 straight or branched chain alkyl group via an ether linkage. Typically, these polymers are ethers of straight or branched C10-C30 chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (that is, alkyl groups derived from coconut oil alcohols), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, Linolenyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl and mixtures thereof. For materials based on hydroxyethylcellulose, the molar substitution of hydroxyethyl is greater than 3.0. Among the preferred alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers is the material whose CTFA designation is cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the Natrosol ^ CS Plus brand of Aqualon Corporation, Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of linked glucose units (1-> 3) with a linked glucose (1-> 6) every three units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel ^ M CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, New Jersey).

Gums Other thickening agents useful herein include materials selected from acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica , hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotia gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are the copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company under the brand of Carbopol resins. In WO098 / 22085, suitable Carbopol resins are described.

Interlaced copolymers of alkylvinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. In these copolymers, the vinyl ethers are represented by the formula R-0-CH = CH 2, wherein R is a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. Preferred entanglement agents are C2-C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. A particularly preferred copolymer is the one formed of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer has been crosslinked with decadiene, and wherein the polymer, when diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7 at 25 ° C, has a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 mPa.s (cps) when measured using a Brookfield RTV viscosity needle # 7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the CTFA designation of crospolmer of PVM / MA decadiene and is commercially available as Stabileze ™ M 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne New Jersey).

Oil Phase Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in a continuous aqueous phase; each oil phase comprises a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form. Different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials. The total level of oil phase components in the compositions of the invention is usually from about 0.1% to about 60%, preferably from about 1% to about 30%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% , and is very preferred from 1.3% to 8%. Preferably, the oil phase components of the present compositions comprise an emollient material or mixtures of several thereof, an ester of polyolcarboxylic acid and a silicone oil, or mixtures thereof. In preferred embodiments, the oil phase preferably comprises additional oily components such as natural or synthetic oils selected from oils, fats and mineral, vegetable and animal waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. These oil components are present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. For example, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oils or petrolatum are preferred for use herein. Additional examples suitable for use herein are described in WO98 / 22085. Preferred embodiments herein comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester, as described in WO98 / 22085.

Emollient Materials The compositions of the present invention may comprise emollient materials selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 15,000; preferably from about 100 to about 1000, compounds of formula I: Formula I wherein R 1 is selected from H or CH 3; R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from straight or branched chain alkyl of C-1-C20. Y ? it is an integer of 1 -20; and compounds having the formula (II): O R5- C-OR6 Formula II wherein R ^ is selected from benzyl optionally substituted with hydroxy or C-I-C-J alkyl, and R ^ is selected from straight or branched chain alkyl of C-1-C20; and mixtures thereof. Branched chain hydrocarbons suitable for use herein are selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, sooctahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectane, isopentacontaoctaoctactane, and mixtures thereof. Branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons sold under the trademark Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Presperse Inv., P.O. are suitable for use herein. Box 735, South Plainfield, New Jersey 07080, E.U.A. Suitable ester emollient materials of formula I above include, without limitation, me isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, sodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl pelargonate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, myristyl octanoate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable emollient materials of ester of formula (II) include, without limitation, C12-15 alkylbenzoates. Preferred emollients for use herein are isohexadecane, isooctacontane, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, me isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, C-alkylbenzoates. 12-15, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred emollients for use herein are isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, me isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, or mixtures thereof. The emollient material is preferably present in the compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about %, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, especially from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

Polyolcarboxylic acid ester The compositions of the present invention may further comprise as an additional emollient, a polyolcarboxylic acid ester. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and especially from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The level of polyol ester by weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 30%; preferably from about 5% to about 20%. From the viewpoint of the provision of improved smoothness and smoothness benefits of the skin, the weight ratio of the carboxylic acid polyol ester to the aforementioned emollient materials is preferably in the range of about 5: 1 to about 1. :5; preferably on a scale from 2: 1 to approximately 1: 2. Preferred polyol polyesters in this invention are C 1 -C 30 mono- and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples include: glucose tetraoleate, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester in which portions of carboxylic acid ester are palmitoleate and araquidate in a 1: 2 molar ratio, and sucrose octaester where the esterifying portions of carboxylic acid are laurate, linoleate and behenate, in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. Other materials include sucrose esters of fatty acid from cottonseed oil or soybean oil. Other examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636, incorporated herein by reference. A particularly preferred material is known by the INCI name of sucrose polycottonseedate.

Silicone oil The present compositions preferably comprise at least one oil phase of silicone. The oily phases of silicone generally comprise from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. The oil phase of silicone (one or more) preferably comprises one or more silicone components. The silicone components can be fluids, including straight chain, branched and cyclic silicones. Suitable silicone fluids useful herein include silicones comprising polyalkylsiloxane fluids, polyarylsiloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino-modified and quaternary ammonium silicones, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, or a polyethersiloxane copolymer and mixtures thereof. Silicone fluids can be volatile or non-volatile. The silicone fluids generally have a weight average molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less; preferably about 10,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having a weight average molecular weight in the range from about 100 to about 50,000, and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. Usually, the silicone fluids have a viscosity ranging from about 0.65 to about 600, 000 mm2s ~ 1, preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm ^ s'l at 25 ° C. The viscosity can be measured by means of a capillary glass viscometer as described in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes that can be used here include those available from, for example, General Electric Company as the SF and Viscasil series (RTM), and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Also useful are essentially non-volatile polyalkylaryl siloxanes, for example polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm ^ s at 25 ° C. . These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid, or from Dow Corning as Cosmetic Grade Fluid 556. Cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use herein, are those having a ring structure incorporating approximately 3 to about 7 portions of (CH.sub.2 SiO.) In preferred embodiments, the silicone fluid is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenylmethylone, and mixtures thereof, and silicone gums can also be used herein. "silicone gum" herein means high molecular weight silicones having a weight average molecular weight greater than about 200,000, and preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Non-volatile polyalkyl- and polyarylsiloxane rubbers are included. In preferred embodiments, an oil phase of silicone comprises a silicone gum or a mixture of silicones including silicone gum. Typically, silicone rubbers have a viscosity at 25 ° C of more than about 1,000,000 mrn 2s ** 1. Silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch and others including US-A-4, 152,416, May 1, 1979 for Spitzer et al .; and Noli, Walter, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones," New York Academic Press, 1968. Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 34, and SE 76 of General Electric also describe silicone rubbers. Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, copolymer (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane), poly (dimethylsiloxane) - (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Preferred silicone gums for use herein are silicone gums having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000, selected from dimethiconol and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. A silicone phase of the present invention preferably comprises a silicone gum incorporated in the composition as part of a gum-silicone fluid mixture. When the silicone rubber is incorporated as part of a silicone rubber-fluid mixture, the silicone rubber preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to about 20% by weight of the silicone rubber mixture. rubber-fluid silicone. The silicone rubber-fluid mixtures suitable herein are mixtures consisting essentially of: (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000, selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a vehicle that is a silicone fluid, the vehicle having a viscosity of about 0.65 mm2s ~ 1 to about 100 mnr. s-1, wherein the ratio of (i) to (ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80, and wherein said silicone rubber based component has a final viscosity of about 100 mnr. s-1 to about 100,000 mrr.2s "" 1, preferably 500 mm2s * "1 to about 10,000 mm2s 1. A component based on a mixture of gum and silicone fluid especially preferred for use in the compositions herein, is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000, together with a fluid silicone carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 mm2s ~ 1. An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% Fluid of Dimethicone 5 mm2s "1/15% Dimeticonol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401, available from Dow Corning. Additional silicone components, suitable for use in an oily silicone phase herein, are the interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymers, optionally dispersed in a fluid carrier. In general, when the entangled polyorganosiloxane polymers are present, together with their carrier (if present), they comprise from 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. These polymers comprise polyorganosiloxane polymers intertwined with an entanglement agent. Suitable entangling agents are described in WO98 / 22085. Examples of polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use herein include methylvinyldimethicone, methylvinyldiphenyldimethicone and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyldimethicone. Specific polyorganosiloxane interlaced polymers, commercially available, for use herein, are the vinyl and silicone crospol-polymer blends available under the trademark KSG, provided by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd., for example KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG- 18 These materials contain a combination of interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone fluid. It is particularly preferred to use here, especially in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier organic material, KSG-18. The INCI names assigned for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18, are crospolimer of cyclomethicone-dimethicone vinyl dimethicone, dimethicone-dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crospolimer, cyclomethicone-dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crospolimer and phenyltrimethicone-dimethicone crospolimer / phenylvinyldimethicone, respectively.

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in an oil phase of silicone herein, includes that of polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. WO98 / 22085 discloses suitable polydiorganosiloxane segments and copolymers thereof. Suitable copolymers of polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene are commercially available under the trademarks Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gescháftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22; and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middiesex, HA4 OYL; for example, Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred copolymer fluid mixture for use herein, includes Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA designation copolyol Dimethicone / Dimethicone.

Amphiphilic Surfactant A further preferred component of the compositions herein is an amphiphilic organic surfactant which is capable of forming smectite lyotropic crystals in the product or when applied to the skin at room temperature or at elevated temperature. It has been found that the amphiphilic organic surfactant is especially valuable herein to improve the stability and the skin feel of the compositions of the invention. Preferably, the compositions herein comprise nonionic amphiphilic surfactants at a level of from about 0.01% to about 4%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%, and preferably from about 0.08% to about 2%. In W098 / 22085, incorporated herein by reference, the preferred classes of suitable nonionic amphiphilic surfactants herein and their properties are described. Preferred herein are mono-, di- and triacyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof, wherein the acyl substituents contain from about 8 to about 24, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, and 0.1. or 2 unsaturated portions, and polyethylene glycol derivatives, or mixtures thereof. A mixture of fatty acid ester based on a combination of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol and fatty acid ester of sucrose is highly preferred, with the fatty acid being in each case, preferably C8-C24, preference of C < Q-C20- The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier from the wetting point of view, is a mixture of C-16-C20 fatty acid ester of sorbitan or sorbitol, with fatty acid ester of C < | n-C-i6 of sucrose, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is available commercially from ICI under the brand name Arlatone 2121.

Humectants The compositions of the present invention may comprise additional humectants which are preferably present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and especially from about 0.5% to about 15% . Additional humectants suitable herein are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine, glycolic acid and glycolate salts (for example ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (for example ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe vera in any of its various forms (for example aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (for example salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); lactamide-monoethanolamine; acetamide-monoethanolamine; urea; panthenol and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof. At least a part (up to about 5% by weight of the composition) of an additional humectant can be incorporated in the form of a mixture with a hydrophobic crosslinked copolymer into acrylate or methacrylate particles, preferably present in an amount of 0.1% by weight. 10% approximately, which can be added to the aqueous phase or to the dispersed phase. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing the gloss and controlling the oil, helping to provide effective wetting benefits, and is described in greater detail in WO96 / 03964, incorporated herein by reference. The above-mentioned compounds can be incorporated individually or in combination. Additional preferred humectants are selected from urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof. From the point of view of wetting reinforcement, a combination of glycerin and urea is particularly preferred. In preferred embodiments, the urea is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, and especially about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the oil phase and the amphiphilic organic surfactant when present are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft Point of the amphiphilic organic surfactant (but preferably below 60 ° C) to form a liquid dispersion. of glass / oil in water before the addition of urea. It was found that urea is especially effective herein in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier surfactant and the polyol fatty acid polyester, to provide remarkable wetting and softening of the skin in the context of an oil-in-water emulsion composition for the skin care. A wide variety of optional ingredients such as additional thickening agents, non-occlusive humectants, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants can also be added to the skin compositions of the present invention. Additional thickeners useful herein are water-soluble lubricants of glyceryl poly (meth) acrylate (such as Hispagel ^); polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants, available under the Lubrajel (RTM) brand from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, New York 11787, and mixtures thereof. In general, Lubrajel can be described as hydrates or clathrates that are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Then, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. The Lubrajel are marketed in various grades of glycerate: polymer and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajel include Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS; Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and the so-called Lubrajel Oil [Lubrajel Oil]. Optionally, additional cation containing polymers can be added to the compositions herein. These additional cation containing polymers include an ampholytic polymer. Suitable ampholytic polymers include the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-22 or the trademark "Merquat 280" from Calgon (Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, E.U.A.); the polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of acrylic acid, diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-39 or the trademark "Merquat Plus 3330" and "Merquat Plus 3331" from Calgon (Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, USA), and the quaternary ammonium salt formed by the polymerization of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available under the trade designation Polyquaternium-47 or the trademark "Merquat 2001 N" from Calgon (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA).

A wide variety of optional ingredients such as non-occlusive humectants, neutralizing agents, perfumes, coloring agents and surfactants can also be added to the skin compositions herein. Suitable neutralizing agents for use in the neutralization of hydrophilic gelling agents containing an acid group herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris buffer and triethanolamine. The compositions of the invention are generally in the form of an emulsion and are preferably formulated to have a product viscosity of at least about 4,000 mPa.s, and preferably in the range of about 4,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, preferably about 8,000 to about 250,000 mPa.s, and especially about 10,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s, and about 10,000 to about 150,000 mPa.s is preferred (25 ° C, pure, Brookfield RVT, TC needle to 5 rpm and Heliopath Stand). The compositions of the invention may also contain from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% of a panthenol humectant. The panthenol humectant can be selected from D-panthenol ([Rj ^^ - dihydroxy-N-fS-hydroxypropyl-SS-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, pantothein, panthenol ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoi I-lactose and vitamin B complex. Other optional materials include keratolytic agents / desquamation agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; preservatives soluble or solubilizable in water, preferably at a level of about 0.1% to 5%, such as Germall 1 15; methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid; benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; antibacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of about 0.1% to 5%); soluble or colloidally soluble wetting agents such as hyaluronic acid and sodium polyacrylates grafted with starch, such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500, available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, Virginia, USA, and they are described in document US-A-4,076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, and vitamin K; alpha and betahydroxy acids; aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin bleaching agents; N-acetylcysteine; coloring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers. Sun blocking agents are also useful herein. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in the U.S. Patent. No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Issued February 1, 1992; the Patent of E.U.A. No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; the Patent of E.U.A. No. 5,073,371 to Tumer et al., Issued December 17, 1991; and "Cosmetics Science and Technology" by Segarin and others, in chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq. Preferred sunscreens among those which are useful in the compositions of the invention, are selected from 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole acid -5-sulphonic, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide , zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789 and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreens are described in the U.S. Patent. No. 4,937,370 of Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990, and the Patent of E.U.A. No. 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al., Issued March 12, 1991. In general, sunscreens may comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the compositions useful herein. The exact amounts will vary depending on the chosen sunblock and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used photoprotection measurement of a sunblock against erythema. See "Federal Register", Vol. 43 No. 166, pages 38206-38269, of August 25, 1978. The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise from 0.1% to 5% by weight, approximately, of starch-octenylsuccinate of aluminum. Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is the aluminum salt of the reaction product of octeni I succinic anhydride with starch, and is commercially available under the Dry Star brand of National Starch &; Chemical Ltd. The Dry Fio is useful here from the point of view of the sensation and application characteristics in the skin. Other optional materials herein include pigments which, when insoluble in water, contribute to the total level of oil phase ingredients and are included therein. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included in the term pigment are materials that have a low color or luster, such as matte finishing agents, and also light-scattering agents. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise particulate materials having a refractive index of from about 1.3 to about 1.7, said materials being dispersed in. the composition and having an average particle size of from about 3 to about 30 μm. Preferably, the particles useful in the present have relatively narrow distributions, whereby it is understood that more than 50% of the particles are within 3 μm on either side of the respective average value. It is also preferred that more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, preferably more than 70% of the particles are within the size scales prescribed for the respective average values. Suitable particulate materials are organic polymers or preferably organosilicon. The preferred particles are free flowing solid materials. By "solid" it is meant that the particles are not hollow. The space in the center of the hollow particles can have an adverse effect on the refractive index and therefore on the visual effects of the particles, either in the skin or in the composition. Suitable organic particulate materials include those which are made of polymethylsilyesquioxane, referred to above, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly (vinylidene chloride). Copolymers derived from monomers of the aforementioned materials can also be used. Inorganic materials include silica and boron nitride. Representative commercially available examples of particulate materials useful herein are Tospearl ^ 145, which has an average particle size of about 4.5 μm and EA-209R of Kobo, which is an ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer having an average size of particle of approximately 10 μm, or mixtures thereof. Additional examples of suitable pigments are titanium dioxide, Kobo predispersed titanium dioxide, for example Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxides, iron acylglutamate oxides, ultramarine blue, D &C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition, a mixture of pigments will normally be used. Preferred pigments for use here from the standpoint of wetting, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility, are the treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

Component of vitamin B ^ The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise about 0.01% to 50%, preferably about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably about 1% to about 8%, and about 1.5% to about 6% of the vitamin B3 compound is most preferred. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COOH (ie, nicotinic acid) or CH2OH (ie, nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above. Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, carboxylic acid esters of nicotinic alcohol, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include esters of C-1-C22 alcohols of nicotinic acid, preferably of C-I-C-IQ, preferably of C- | -C6. The alcohols are conveniently straight chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilators. As used herein, "non-vasodilators" means that the ester does not commonly produce a visible blush response after application to the skin of the compositions herein (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible blush response, although these compounds can cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; the tocopherol nicotinate is preferred. A more complete description of vitamin B3 compounds is given in WO 98/22085. Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from several sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis Missouri); ICN Biomedicals Inc. (Irvin, California) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wisconsin). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used here. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is very preferred.

Retinoids In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention also contain a retinoid. The vitamin B3 compound and the retinoid provide unexpected benefits in the regulation of skin conditioning, especially in therapeutic regulation of signs of skin aging, especially wrinkles, lines and pores. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids into trans-retinoic acid, which is considered the biologically active form of the retinoid, to provide synergistic action of the skin condition (particularly greater conversion for retinol, retinol and retinal esters). In addition, unexpectedly, the vitamin B3 compound mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis and the like, which may otherwise be associated with the topical application of retinoid (frequently referred to, and hereinafter referred to alternatively as "retinoid dermatitis"). In addition, the combination of vitamin B3 compound and retinoid increases the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which leads to an increase in the levels of collagen expression by the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention allows reduced levels of active, and therefore reduced retinoid dermatitis potential, but retaining significant benefits of positive skin conditioning. In addition, higher levels of retinoid can still be used to obtain better skin conditioning efficiency, without occurrence of retjnoid dermatitis fideseable. ** * As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogs of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (for example C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinoic acid (including all trans and / or retinoic acid). 13-cis-retinoic acid), very preferably retinoids different from retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from several sources, for example Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis Missouri) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, Indiana). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, tetinyl propionate, retinal, and combinations thereof. Retinyl and retinyl palmitate are most preferred. The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by physical and / or chemical isolation suitable from natural sources (eg, from plants). The compositions preferably contain from 0.005% to 2%, approximately, preferably from 0.01% to approximately 2% retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount from about 0.01% to 0.15%; the retinol esters are preferably used in an amount of about 0.01% to 2% (eg, about 1%). Conveniently, the pH of the compositions herein is greater than 4.25, preferably greater than 4.5, and preferably greater than 4.75; also preferably it is less than 9, preferably less than 8, and most preferably less than 7. The water content of the compositions herein is generally from about 30% to about 98.89%, preferably about 50% by weight. about 95%, and especially about 60% to about 90% by weight. The compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion, which can be applied to the skin as a depot product. The invention is illustrated by means of the following examples.

EXAMPLES I to VI Ingredient%%%%%% p / p P / P p / p P / P p / p P / P Glycerin 7.00 7.00 9.00 12.00 15.00 Polyethylene glycol! 2001 - 3.00 - - 10.00 Urea - 2.20 1.80 - - - Krsnos (Ti02) 2. 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 Kobo GWL75CAP3 0.50 - 0.20 0.30 - - Tospearll45a4 - - 0.50 2.00 - - Arlatone21215 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Sepigel 3056 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Sodium hydroxide (sun 40%) 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.08 0.10 0.10 Hydrochloric acid 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10 0.10 Myrj597 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Stearyl alcohol 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.80 1.2 . Cetyl alcohol 0.80 1.00 0.72 0.72 1.80 0.8O Isopropyl isostearate8 1.50 0.75 1.50 1.00 0.5 2.00 SEAT 8tonato9 1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80 - - Isohexadecano 1.00 - - - 0.50 1.00 Petrolato -. -. 1.20 0.50 Ethylparaben 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 Propylparaben 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.25 0.25 Benzyl alcohol 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.30 D-panthenol 0.50 - - - 0.50 1.00 Niacinatnida 2.00 - - - 2.00 5.00 EDTA disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 DC Q2-140310 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 2.00 2 50 Tocopherot acetate 0.50 0.25 0.25 0.75 0.50. Polyquatemium 10p 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.50 0.50 N-Hance219612 - 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.50 0.50 Deionized water A 100 A 100 A 100 A 100 A 100 A 100 1. - Provided by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Connecticut, E.U.A. 2.- Provided by Kronos, 4 Place Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada. 3.- Provided by Kobo Products Inc, 690 Montrose Ave, So Plainfield, New Jersey 07080. 4.- Provided by GE Silicones, Plasticslaan 1 / PO Box 117, 4600 AC Bergen op Zoom, Holland. 5.- Provided by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England, TS6 8JE. 6. - Provided by Seppic, 75 Quai DOrsay, Paris. 7.- PEG 100 Stearate, provided by ICI, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England, TS6 8JE. 8. Provided by Scher Chemicals Inc., Industrial West, Clifton New Jersey 07012. 9. A mono-ester or polyester of C 1 -C 30 of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a polyester. of sucrose in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid portions are mono- and / or di-unsaturated of C18 and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5; preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids. 10.- Provided by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX. 11- Provided by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Connecticut, E.U.A. 12.- Supplied by Aqualon (Hercules Inc), Noordweg 9, 3336 LH Zwinjndrecht, P.O. Box 71, 3330 AB Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands. The compositions are prepared as follows: A first premix of anionic thickeners (if present), glycerin / Ti? 2 premix, cation-containing polymer, Arlatone 2121 when present, and other water-soluble ingredients apart from urea is prepared , mixing in water and heating to about 80X. A second premix of the oil phase ingredients including the emulsifiers, fat-soluble preservatives, apart from the silicone oil, is prepared by mixing and heating, and is added to the aqueous premix. If a polymeric anionic thickener is present, then sodium hydroxide is added to neutralize to pH 6-7.5 before shearing and cooling to about 60 ° C. In the presence of nonionic polymeric thickeners, the process is as described above, but the polymeric thickener, for example Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide), is not added until the mixture is cooled to 60 ° C. The Sepigel 305 is added under shear stress and then the NaOH solution is added. In both cases, EDTA, silicone oil and then urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml of water) is then added to the resulting oil-in-water emulsion, and the mixture is cooled before adding the minor ingredients. The composition is ready to be packaged. The compositions exhibit high wetting efficiency without the high associated levels of tackiness, as well as good rheological, absorption and isolation properties, in addition to benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness.

Claims (13)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. A cosmetic deposition composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: (a) about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof; and (b) a cation-containing polymer selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; wherein said composition comprises less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant.

2 - The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that it comprises from about 7% to about 15%, and preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight of the polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures of several thereof.

3. The composition according to any of claims 1 or 2, further characterized in that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexanotriol, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof. thereof.

4. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, further characterized in that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerin; polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, further characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is a cationic polymer.

6. The composition according to claim 5, further characterized in that the cationic polymer is a cationic polysaccharide or derivative thereof, selected from cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic derivatives of polysaccharide gum, or mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, further characterized in that the cation-containing polymer is selected from Polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar gums, or mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, further characterized in that it comprises from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of the polymer containing cation, or mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, further characterized in that it preferably comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, of an anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant.

10. - The composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, further characterized in that when the composition comprises an anionic surfactant, the composition has a ratio of cation-containing polymer to anionic surfactant, of more than 1.5.

A cosmetic method of treating the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10.

12. The use of a polymer containing cation selected from cationic, basic, amphoteric polymers. and zwitterionics, or mixtures thereof, to reduce stickiness in a skin care composition comprising about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

13. The use of a composition comprising about 6% to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or 15 mixtures thereof, and a polymer containing cation selected from * - cationic, basic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, for a deposit application for skin care.