CN213652790U - Weaving textile - Google Patents

Weaving textile Download PDF

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Publication number
CN213652790U
CN213652790U CN201890001047.1U CN201890001047U CN213652790U CN 213652790 U CN213652790 U CN 213652790U CN 201890001047 U CN201890001047 U CN 201890001047U CN 213652790 U CN213652790 U CN 213652790U
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yarns
weave
warp
woven textile
yarn
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曾繁燕
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Lisa T Ltd
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Lisa T Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0017Woven household fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/33Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2503/00Domestic or personal
    • D10B2503/06Bed linen

Abstract

One aspect of the present disclosure provides a woven textile comprising: worsted wool warp yarns and worsted wool weft yarns woven together to define a non-geometric pattern, wherein the warp and weft yarns are ultra-fine or ultra-fine yarns.

Description

Weaving textile
Technical Field
The present disclosure relates to a textile comprising ultra-fine or ultra-fine wool and a method for producing the same.
Background
Weaving has been part of human history for more than 6000 years and has been at the heart of innovation, particularly in the uk of industrial leather, with many changes in the technology, machinery and arrangement of weaving and other life.
Weaving essentially involves inserting weft yarns over/under the warp yarns and packing the weft yarns (known as "beating up" the weft yarns) to form a fabric. In the production of the fabric, the fabric is "picked up" (or removed from the loom). The warp yarns extend generally longitudinally and define the length of the fabric produced.
Moving the ends of the warp fibers relative to each other to form a "shed"/"open channel" that receives a weft yarn is a basic weaving technique in the sense that the formation of a "shed" in the warp is controlled such that a pattern is created in the woven fabric.
Typically, each warp end passes through a heddle, the heddle having a heddle eye receiving a warp thread and an upper/lower heddle eye attached to a mechanism for raising and lowering the heddle.
The complexity of the pattern formed in weaving is achieved by moving the heddles relative to each other, either by a frame attached to the heddles (e.g. a dobby frame) or by still further individual connections to the harness in the shedding mechanism (e.g. a jacquard). The complex movements of the control heddles provide a pioneering of modern computer programming in the form of punched cards, with or without punching (binary, the presence of a hole resulting in a corresponding movement of the heddle or no movement of the heddle, respectively).
As is known in the art, dobby looms are best suited to weave simple repeating geometric patterns in fabrics because they control groups of warp yarns through harness cords (and there are a limited number of harnesses that each loom can hold).
With the development of calculations, weaving machines have been introduced which no longer rely on punched cards but have individually addressable, computer-controlled movements of the heddles to define the shed. This means that the potential of complex patterns has increased theoretically, although still limited. For example, reconfiguring warp yarns (harnesses) used in a jacquard loom on an industrial scale can cost thousands of dollars, and many production days/weeks.
One of the most important parameters affecting the characteristics of the woven fabric produced is the type of yarn and the fineness of the yarns used for the warp and weft yarns. Historically, a variety of natural or synthetic fibers have been used, including cotton, wool, polyester, and rare fibers (such as alpaca, angora, mohair, llama, and cashmere). Typically, these fibers are formed into yarns for weaving by producing continuous lengths of interlocking fibers that are twisted together for strength. Alternatively, the filamentary yarn may be used in warp on a loom, which may be single or multi-filament and may comprise silk and/or rayon and the like.
In natural spun yarns, many of the production volumes are extremely limited. For example, for ultra-fine wool, a "record package" is determined annually for the finest merino wool, the current 10.3 micron package representing the finest wool available and is typically purchased for use in western-style clothes. It will be appreciated that it is very difficult to purchase sufficient quantities of such ultra-fine worsted wool to weave with such yarns to sell in the first few years.
It is also recognized that the finer the yarn, the more comfortable it has to "handle" when woven into a fabric, and the more expensive the yarn is. Typically, 15.5 micron ultra fine wool yarn is about $ 80 per kilogram, while 13.5 micron wool yarn may be about $ 390 per kilogram. Due to scarcity and availability of larger textile mills for making western style clothes, finer yarns are not generally available in the open market.
The constraints of weaving vary according to: weaving machine, shedding technique used, desired warp and weft density, yarn density, thread tension, type of weaving machine, type of weaving, type of pattern and skill of the weaver (precision, patience, weaving knowledge, weaving technical familiarity) and desired overall fabric style.
Thus, even though there are many techniques for weaving yarns into textiles, there are still many difficulties in weaving certain yarns that have not been solved to date, particularly when working with ultra fine/very fine natural yarns, which have only recently become available due to increased genetic knowledge and complex breeding techniques.
Practical problems such as obtaining a sufficient amount of such yarns to set up a warp loom, properly configuring the loom (including tensioning the yarns), etc. mean that weaving such ultra-fine natural yarns remains a challenge despite a long history of human efforts to weave. Thus, despite such a rich and profound history, few weavers have demonstrated their ability to work with this challenging raw material, particularly in forming non-repeating patterns. Many weavers prefer to use established techniques for operating weaving machines, such as using only weft yarns with very fine or ultra-fine yarns and warp yarns comprising synthetic warp yarns.
In view of these limitations, a series of techniques have been used to work with the fine silk warp yarns for jacquard looms, the yarns outlined below in view of the fact that the silk is capable of withstanding the significant degree of tension required without breaking. Alternatively, flax or cotton warp yarns are used and once installed with the warp yarns, the waste, difficulty and time and effort taken means that the type of warp yarn is not generally changed.
Jacquard looms capable of weaving up to nearly 330cm wide (especially in single end warp installations) are expensive to purchase, maintain and operate, and are not suitable for small batches due to the time required for initial installation. Any variation in warp material used in jacquard looms, particularly computer operated single end jacquard looms, typically results in a lot of waste (about 15% of the final product) at all stages of installation.
Matelasse is a structure designed specifically to mimic quilting and is woven from three or four sets of yarns. Two of which are regular warp and weft yarns; other groups are crepe or roving. They are woven together so that the yarn sets cross. After the fabric is finished, the crepe or cotton yarn shrinks, so that the appearance of the fabric is a wrinkled appearance. Thick cotton yarns are sometimes used as stuffer yarns under the fabric to accentuate the three-dimensional appearance of the fabric. Martlas can be woven using a jacquard loom.
Brocade (Brocade) is a fabric with a fine relief or embroidered surface effect and many times has different textures and patterns.
Satin (Damask) is another patterned fabric that has a weave (usually plain, twill or satin) and other weave designs (especially satin and twill variants) so that the patterned areas have luster and reflect light. The satin is always reversible, the pattern weave becoming a ground weave on the back (so on fabrics with plain and satin patterned fronts, the ground weave will be satin, and the pattern plain on the back).
SUMMERY OF THE UTILITY MODEL
Features and advantages of the present disclosure will be set forth in the description which follows, and in part will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the principles disclosed herein. The features and advantages of the disclosure may be realized and obtained by means of the instruments and combinations particularly pointed out in the specification.
According to a first aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a woven textile comprising: worsted wool warp yarns and worsted wool weft yarns woven together to define a non-geometric pattern, wherein the wool warp yarns and the wool weft yarns are ultra-fine or ultra-fine yarns.
Preferably, the woven textile is a blanket having a width of at least 266 cm.
Advantageously, the very fine worsted wool yarn is sized to have a diameter between 15 μm and 15.5 μm.
Optionally, the ultra fine spun yarn has a diameter of 15.3 μm or less. Preferably, the diameter of the ultra fine wool yarn is between 11.5 μm and 15.5 μm.
Advantageously, said non-geometric pattern is defined by the presence and absence of floats.
The warp yarns and the weft yarns may be substantially the same single color yarns, and optionally the color may be substantially ivory.
Preferably, two single warp yarns are connected together to form a warp yarn comprising a full width of 330cm on a jacquard loom.
Optionally, the non-geometric pattern in the textile may be defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave and plain weave.
Preferably, the woven textile blanket comprising a width of at least 266cm has a pattern substantially as described hereinbefore with reference to fig. 10.
Preferably, there is provided a method for weaving a woven blanket having a width of at least 266cm, the method comprising:
(a) preparing warp yarns for a jacquard loom, said warp yarns comprising a plurality of worsted wool warp yarns, each yarn having a diameter of less than 15.5 μm, preferably between 11.5 μm and 15.3 μm;
(b) passing the warp yarn of step (a) through the jacquard loom;
(c) interweaving a plurality of worsted wool weft yarns between the worsted wool warp yarns, each yarn having a diameter of less than 15.5 μm, preferably between 11.5 μm and 15.3 μm;
wherein the warp and weft are interwoven to form a non-geometric pattern in the woven blanket.
Advantageously, the method further comprises the step of finishing the woven blanket by stretching and steaming the fibers of the yarns of the woven blanket.
Drawings
In order to describe the manner in which the above-recited and other advantages and features of the disclosure can be obtained, a more particular description of the principles briefly described above will be rendered by reference to specific embodiments thereof which are illustrated in the appended drawings. Understanding that these drawings depict only exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and are not therefore to be considered to be limiting of its scope, the principles herein will be described and explained with additional specificity and detail through the use of the accompanying drawings.
Preferred embodiments of the present disclosure will be described in further detail below, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which,
figure 1 depicts a typical woven textile known in the art comprising warp and weft yarns.
Fig. 2 depicts an exemplary non-geometric pattern in accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure.
FIG. 3 is a photograph of the pattern shown in FIG. 2 when woven with nylon warp yarns and worsted wool weft yarns.
FIG. 4 is a photograph of an exemplary woven textile having the weave pattern of FIG. 2 when woven with worsted wool weft yarns and worsted wool warp yarns.
Figure 5A depicts a schematic of a cone for producing warp yarns in a rectangular creel.
Fig. 5B depicts the yarn from the creel wound onto a removable chrome strip of the reed.
Fig. 5C depicts the removal of the chrome strip from the reed in preparation for the warp yarn transfer to the beam.
Figure 5D depicts the bound ends of warp threads pleated across the beam.
Figure 5E depicts the ends of the warp yarns to be wound on the beam.
Figure 6A depicts the end of a warp yarn being attached to an existing warp yarn using a tying machine.
Figure 6B depicts a detachable chrome strip separating the criss-cross sections of warp yarn.
Fig. 6C depicts an exemplary break in the harness and warp yarns of a loom, caused by a defect in the yarn, causing it to spin too finely, causing a break in the warp yarn.
Fig. 6D illustrates the difference in line diameter in one manufacturing run.
Fig. 6E depicts the connections between each single warp yarn.
Fig. 6F depicts an exemplary stanobil jacquard loom and partially formed blanket.
Fig. 6G depicts an example of a broken warp yarn in the completed blanket portion.
Fig. 7A depicts an exemplary lateral stretch clip engageable with a woven textile.
FIG. 7B depicts the stretching of a textile across an exemplary roller.
Fig. 7c (i) is a schematic representation of measurements of an exemplary woven textile prior to a finishing process.
Fig. 7c (ii) is a schematic representation of measurements of an exemplary woven textile after steaming.
Fig. 8A depicts diamond, herringbone, and twill weaves in a portion of an exemplary woven textile.
Fig. 8B depicts diamond, herringbone, and twill patterns in another portion of an exemplary woven textile.
Fig. 8C depicts chevrons and twill weave in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Fig. 8D depicts chevron and diamond shaped weave in a further exemplary portion of a woven textile.
Fig. 8E depicts diamond and twill weaves in further exemplary portions of the woven textile.
Fig. 8F depicts twill weave in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Figure 9A depicts a schematic representation of a pattern of a woven embodiment of the present disclosure.
Fig. 9B is a representation of a computer-aided design (CAD) file provided for weaving an exemplary embodiment of the woven textile depicted in fig. 9A.
Fig. 10 is a photograph of a blanket according to an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure.
In order to describe the manner in which the above-recited and other advantages and features of the disclosure can be obtained, a more particular description of the principles briefly described above will be rendered by reference to specific embodiments that are illustrated in the appended drawings. These drawings depict only exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and are not therefore to be considered to limit its scope.
Detailed Description
Various embodiments of the present disclosure are discussed in detail below. While specific implementations are discussed, it should be understood that this is done for illustrative purposes only. A person skilled in the relevant art will recognize that other components and configurations may be used without parting from the spirit and scope of the disclosure.
Various embodiments of the present disclosure are discussed in more detail below. While specific embodiments are discussed, it should be understood that these are for illustration purposes only. One skilled in the relevant art will recognize that other components and configurations may be used without departing from the scope of the present disclosure, as defined in the appended claims.
The disclosed technology addresses the need in the weaving art for woven textiles with non-geometric patterns made from very fine or ultra-fine yarns.
As is known in the art, wool staple fibers are clusters or locks of naturally occurring wool fibers, wherein the length of merino wool staple fibers is between 65-100 mm. The fiber diameter of typical merino wool is 24 μm, wherein the diameter of strong wool (thick wool) is 23-24.5 μm, the diameter of medium wool is 19.6-22.9 μm, the diameter of fine wool is 18.6-19.5 μm, the diameter of superfine wool is 15-18.5 μm, and the diameter of superfine wool is 11.5-15 μm.
Generally, coarse wool is used for products such as carpets because of its strength and durability, while medium wool is used for various bedding, upholstery, woven clothing cloth, knitting yarns, and decoration. Due to the relative scarcity and price of yarn, extra fine and ultra fine wool is commonly used to produce woven garments, western style clothes and knitted fashion garments only.
Fig. 1 depicts an exemplary yarn arrangement that represents a textile 10 that may be produced by weaving. The warp yarns 12 extend longitudinally; and the weft yarns 14 are interwoven transversely across and under the warp yarns. The selvedges 16 (outer edges) of the fabric extend substantially parallel to the warp yarns. Typically, patterns such as lattices or twills can be created in this type of weave, often using different colored lines for each of the warp and weft directions.
Fig. 2 depicts a significantly more complex pattern 20 for a woven textile, including various irregular or non-geometric shapes 22, 24, 26, 28 that are reminiscent of sand dunes or waves. It will be appreciated that the particular pattern of non-geometric shapes depicted is merely exemplary and should not be considered limiting.
In the depicted pattern, the warp yarns 32 (highlighted in bold in the figure) of the woven textile extend longitudinally along the textile and downwardly along the page in the depicted orientation; while the weft yarns 34 (highlighted in bold lines in the figure) extend transversely across the textile (and across the page) in the depicted pattern. Advantageously, in the textile shown in fig. 4 and discussed below, the pattern is created using "float stitches" or leak stitches for shed adjustment.
The depicted pattern can be contrasted with traditional geometric repeating fractal or other patterns formed by geometric shapes that are typically found in woven textiles produced by hand or non-computer implemented looms.
Fig. 3 depicts an exemplary embodiment of a textile 30 woven with polyester warp yarns and wool weft yarns of ultra-fine/ultra-fine wool. For reference to textiles woven in accordance with the present disclosure, similar patterns as depicted in fig. 2 have been woven in blankets using the same techniques discussed in more detail below. As with the pattern depicted in FIG. 2, the warp yarns 32 and the weft yarns 34 extend in the longitudinal and transverse directions, respectively.
As is evident from viewing the photograph of fig. 3, the resulting pattern is quite distinct, with polyester warp yarns 32 in sharp contrast to wool weft yarns 34.
FIG. 4 is an exemplary photograph of a woven textile 40 in which the warp yarns 42 and weft yarns 44 used are ultra-fine or ultra-fine wool yarns. These yarns are woven on a jacquard loom in the pattern depicted in fig. 2. (it will be appreciated that the warp and weft directions are emphasized with thick black lines in the picture to facilitate orientation and are not actually present in woven textiles.)
Advantageously, in the depicted embodiment, the diameter of the yarn used is about 15.3 μm compared to the more common 18-20 μm diameter wool yarn used for blankets. Optionally, the yarns used may also be selected from ultra fine wool of 11.5-15 μm or ultra fine wool yarns of 15-18.5 μm without departing from the scope of the present disclosure.
As shown, the warp and weft yarns are the same color (i.e., the pattern is monochromatic). In contrast to most textiles, such as blankets, the color of the yarn used does not define the pattern of the textile. As shown, substantially beige yarns are used, but other colors of yarns may be used, preferably the warp and weft yarns are all the same color.
In contrast to many woven textiles, particularly blankets, the pattern formed in the blanket may be formed by using "floats" or where the weft yarn overlaps more than one warp yarn. In this technique, some of the warp yarns to be patterned do not move relative to other warp yarns and remain inactive, and therefore, the weft yarns do not pass through each warp yarn, such that the weft yarns overlap with several of the warp yarns in defining a shed for receiving the weft yarns of the weave-including the arrangement shown in fig. 8A-8D.
Advantageously, in view of the relatively complex pattern depicted, the relative movement of the different warp yarns when inserting weft yarns is performed under computer control of the jacquard loom. Non-geometric patterns of the type depicted with this resolution and the diameter of the yarn utilized would not be producible manually or on other types of looms.
This method of constructing a pattern using floats with very fine or ultra-fine yarns enables complex non-geometric patterns (such as the depicted pattern) to be formed. This technique is somewhat analogous to using individually addressable pixels to form a graphic when forming a graphic image on a computer.
The use of ultra-fine or ultra-fine yarns in this manner allows for the formation of non-geometric patterns in the textile, similar to the patterns depicted; and may be contrasted with the textile depicted in figure 3 where the warp yarns are nylon yarns.
In the embodiment shown, the textile formed is a blanket, having a width of at least 266 cm. The type of loom that can only weave textiles of this width is a loom with a large jacquard head, taking into account the pattern produced, the diameter of the thread used in the warp, and the like.
The overall process of production of woven textiles will now be described in more detail with reference to the following steps.
Step 1: warping production
Short length fibers, such as wool, are twisted together to form textile yarns, which are stored on a cone. To weave these yarns into a fabric, it is necessary, as is known in the art, to form the textile yarns from the cones into warp yarns, and to interweave the weft yarns through the warp yarns. To produce a consistent woven textile, a large and uniform amount of tension is necessarily applied to the warp yarns on the loom.
Typically, the conversion of the yarn into warp is accomplished by supplying the yarn from a "box" called the cone 52 of the creel 50 under the control of a control system which advances the yarn at a steady speed onto the reed 54 of the warper 60. An exemplary representation of a rectangular creel 50 is shown in fig. 5A. To prevent kinking and crossing of the yarn lengths, the yarn typically alternates above and below the removable chrome strips of the creel 56 of the warper 60 as shown in fig. 5B.
As shown in fig. 5C, the yarns of the warp yarns on the reed are held in the correct position using the different colored thread 62 while the chrome strip 56 is withdrawn and before transferring the warp yarns from the reed 54 to the beam 64. Typically, the beam is a large roller covered with plastic film 66 and paper to prevent the initial line from moving.
As shown in fig. 5D, portions of the warp yarn are grouped together and cut before being secured to the beam 64, and then wound to capture the warp yarn for winding onto the beam (fig. 5E).
Beam 54 allows warp yarns to be carried from the warping machine to the jacquard loom, which is typically located at another factory or geographic location.
In an exemplary embodiment, 15.5 micron worsted wool yarn with ivory color (2 yarns/30 twisted together, weighing 1 pound) was used, with a cost of approximately $ 80 per kilogram. The sample warp yarns can be produced to a length of about 35m (in contrast, the production warp yarns are about 1500 m). To produce warp threads of this length, on a 7m diameter reed, 5 turns of reed are required. For the single warp yarn produced in the exemplary sample, 4920 individual ends were used. This sample single warp yarn was produced on a warper of Karl meyer textile machinery Gmbh, but a similar machine could be used without departing from the scope of the disclosure.
It will be appreciated that approximately 30-32kg of yarn is used to produce 35m of single warp yarn. In producing warp yarns from yarn, the warp yarns are moved from the warper to the loom and, because the beginning and end of the woven textile cannot be utilized, a waste of about 15% is expected.
Step 2: weaving
In an exemplary embodiment, a woven textile is produced using a stanobil jacquard because it is particularly suitable for large size double warp yarn items, such as blankets according to embodiments of the present disclosure. Other machines that may be used but may not be suitable include denier (Dornier), van medex (Vamatex) and Sulzer (Sulzer) jacquard looms.
Typically, the stanobil jacquard loom 70 has a maximum warp width of 330cm, which can be used by joining two single warp yarns 72, 74 (140 cm each and 4920 individual ends each) together and including synthetic fibers on the selvedges or edges for ease of handling and finishing.
In order to transfer the warp yarns made of ultra-fine warp yarns from the beam to the harness of the loom, the existing warp yarns on the loom (usually thousands on linen) can be glued to each ultra-fine yarn of the beam. It will be appreciated that this is time consuming, labor intensive and may be a point of failure, and so a warp tying machine is typically used to address some of these difficulties. An illustrative example of such a machine is the Stainbell Topmatic warp knitting machine. This extends across a channel 76 of the machine adjacent to loom 70 depicted in fig. 6A.
It will be appreciated that throughout the process it is necessary to keep the alternating threads in the warp knuckles and tangles free, which is typically done by holding the locking thread 62 extending across the warp yarn until the yarn is detached from the beam and attached to the loom. The wires can then be replaced with chrome strips to maintain the criss-cross (lower/upper) spacing, thereby reducing the likelihood of adjacent wire entanglement.
As known to those skilled in the art, the weaving process essentially involves passing the weft yarns through a "shed"/"open channel" formed by moving the ends of the warp fibers relative to each other. Controlling the formation of "sheds" in the warp allows for the creation of patterns in the woven fabric.
Typically, each warp end passes through a heddle, the heddle having a heddle eye receiving a warp thread and an upper/lower heddle eye attached to a mechanism for raising and lowering the heddle. By using two single warps, the first warp has 4920 heddles; the second warp yarn had 4920 heddles for a total of 9840 threads controlled for the warp yarn; the sides have additional threads, which need to be controlled for selvedges or edges. Under control of the CAD design, alternate lifting and lowering of the heddles is the manner in which the weave pattern is formed in the final woven textile.
Yarn breakage has a real possibility, particularly for warp yarns that need to be maintained at significant tension at all times. This is usually monitored by "knives" resting on the warp yarns and, if such yarns break, these knives fall and form a complete loop.
If the yarns break, it is necessary to fix them by gluing and reattaching them in the middle of the weaving process. In the exemplary embodiment of the textile produced, it is noted that the breakage is caused by a change in the diameter of the yarns forming the warp yarns, due to a change from the supplier, as can be seen with reference to yarns 82 and 84 of fig. 6D. It will be appreciated that this requires particular care and attention to secure the warp yarns once broken, resulting in significant delays in the weaving operation, increasing costs.
In the finished textile, it will be appreciated that the connection of broken yarns results in an increased number of visible knots, which reduces the overall visual appeal of the woven textile. In addition, if there are multiple broken yarns in the warp, this may mean that the entire warp must be replaced, which results in more delay, waste and production loss.
Wool staple yarns are more prone to breakage than linen, cotton or silk fine yarns.
For this reason, it will be appreciated that it is undesirable to use warp yarns that are prone to breakage under tension, particularly thin or extremely fine diameter warp yarns.
Advantageously, paraffin wax may be sprayed onto the yarn to provide a limited amount of yarn strength increase.
It is also necessary to adjust the computer-aided design pattern used to program the jacquard loom to ensure that the pattern can be produced with the proper weft yarn density, particularly if fine or ultra-fine weft yarns are used.
When working with two single warp yarns joined together, it is also necessary to properly join the single warp yarns together centrally to ensure that the join is not apparent, as can be seen with reference to figure 6E. Working with such a wide arrangement can also be problematic due to the potential loss of lifting of the heddles at the side of the jacquard, given the geometric configuration of the jacquard harness.
Fig. 6F shows an exemplary representation of the weaving process in progress, with the finished woven textile 90 (in this case a blanket with double warp yarns) depicted at the bottom of the figure.
Figure 6G shows an example of the appearance of broken warp threads, which will be appreciated to significantly reduce the overall appearance of the woven textile. A few such wires may be fixed throughout the finished product.
Step 3, finish machining
Once the woven textile is produced, it is necessary to relax and soften the fibers by steaming the entire blanket for several minutes. Washing is not recommended because washing will loosen and soften the fibers too much, making the blanket prone to fuzzing, shrinking, or becoming sticky. The steaming is controlled and the fibers are just loose enough to give the blanket a suitable hand feel, so that the customer can appreciate the softness and hand feel of the very fine micron yarn that makes up the blanket.
This process is an important part of the treatment of the entire woven textile, the weft and warp yarns being appropriately positioned relative to each other in the textile, and is particularly important to be carried out under controlled conditions so that any skew in the weave (and thus in the pattern) caused by the weaving process can be adjusted.
Initially, the textile is passed through a series of rollers to straighten the entire textile. In the exemplary embodiment, these rollers are located on a Corino machine manufactured by ALBA, Inc. of Italy. It will be appreciated that similar machines may also be used without departing from the disclosure.
Advantageously, the textile may be pinned and stretched on a platform, such as that of an Alea machine, with a localized steam bath being used in specific areas where the indicated stretching or adjustment is desired. As is known in the art, the sides of the platform include teeth that engage the sides of the woven textile and apply a predetermined amount of stretch thereto, as shown in fig. 7A. In addition to the overall stretch applied to the textile by the platform (if desired), the various portions of the textile may also be stretched as desired by the skilled artisan.
After some time of stretching, the woven textile is passed to a steam chamber, which in the exemplary embodiment is part of an Alea machine. After steaming, the textile may be passed through a series of rollers 92, 94 as shown in fig. 7B and further stretched (if desired) on an inspection platform.
Typical shrinkage of the textile after steaming is depicted in fig. 7c (i) and fig. 7c (ii).
As depicted in fig. 8A-8E, various weaves may be obtained using a jacquard loom.
Fig. 8A depicts a diamond weave 100, a herringbone weave 102, and a twill weave 104 in a portion of an exemplary woven textile.
Fig. 8B depicts a diamond weave 100, a herringbone weave 102, and a twill weave 104 in another portion of the exemplary woven textile.
Fig. 8C depicts a herringbone weave 102 and a twill weave 104 in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Fig. 8D depicts herringbone patterns 102 and diamond patterns 100 in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Fig. 8E depicts diamond-shaped weave 100 and herringbone weave 102 in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Fig. 8F depicts various twill weaves 106 in a further exemplary portion of the woven textile.
Optionally, these tissues may be combined to produce the pattern 110 schematically depicted in fig. 9A. The approximate dimensions of the finished product are shown in FIG. 9B of the CAD file, with the width of the interior pattern being 266 cm; within a total width of 308cm and a length of 300 cm. The final weight of the depicted blankets was approximately 4.5-5kg per blanket, the blankets used 15.5 micron wool 2/30 yarn for the warp and weft yarns. In an exemplary test, the weft yarn also used 13.5 micron wool yarn.
FIG. 10 is a photographic representation of an exemplary woven textile produced by the above-described method. In the depicted embodiment, it will be appreciated that the yarns for the warp and weft yarns are single color, extremely fine wool yarns woven into a plurality of weaves to define the depicted pattern. However, it will be appreciated that various other textures, patterns, and colors may be produced in the woven textile without departing from the disclosure.
The production of textile materials comprising ultra-fine or ultra-fine warp and weft yarns provides an exceptionally warm and comfortable soft-feel material.
The inclusion of non-geometric patterns in the textile provides a unique distinction from mass-produced textiles, which distinction is further highlighted by the plain and elegant monochromatic color.
Thus, the textile of the present disclosure provides a unique and unique luster of articles made from the finest fibers available to the discriminating customer. Advances in modern weaving technologies to achieve complex artistic designs, combined with advances in merino sheep genetics and breeding, produce ultra-fine and ultra-fine yarns in sufficient quantities to be used on jacquard looms to produce unparalleled textiles.
The above embodiments are described by way of example only. Many variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure as defined in the appended claims.
Although various examples and other information are used to illustrate aspects within the scope of the appended claims, no limitation to the claims should be implied based on the particular features or arrangements in such examples, as one of ordinary skill in the art would be able to use the examples to derive a wide variety of implementations. Further, and although certain subject matter may have been described in language specific to examples of structural features and/or methodological steps, it is to be understood that the subject matter defined in the appended claims is not necessarily limited to the described features or acts. For example, such functionality may be distributed differently or performed in components other than those identified herein. Rather, the described features and steps are disclosed as examples of component parts of systems and methods within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (19)

1. A woven textile, comprising:
a worsted wool warp yarn and worsted wool weft yarn woven together to define an irregular pattern, wherein the warp yarn and the weft yarn are ultra-fine or ultra-fine worsted wool yarns.
2. The woven textile of claim 1, wherein the woven textile is a blanket having a width of at least 266 cm.
3. A woven textile product according to claim 1, wherein the worsted wool yarn is an extremely fine yarn sized to have a diameter between 15 μm and 15.5 μm.
4. A woven textile product according to claim 3, wherein said spun yarns are very fine yarns having a diameter of 15.3 μm or less.
5. The woven textile of claim 1, wherein the ultra fine spun yarns have a diameter between 11.5 μ ι η and 15.3 μ ι η.
6. The woven textile of any of the preceding claims, wherein the irregular pattern is defined by the presence and absence of floats.
7. The woven textile of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the warp and weft yarns are the same single color yarn.
8. The woven textile of claim 6, wherein said warp and weft yarns are the same single color yarn.
9. The woven textile of claim 7, wherein the colors of the warp and weft yarns are ivory.
10. The woven textile of claim 8, wherein the colors of the warp and weft yarns are ivory.
11. The woven textile product of any one of claims 1 to 5, 8, 9 and 10, wherein two single warp yarns consisting of very or ultra fine yarns are connected together to form a full width warp yarn of 330cm on a jacquard loom.
12. A woven textile product according to claim 6, wherein two single warp yarns consisting of very fine or ultra-fine yarns are connected together to form a full width warp yarn of 330cm on a jacquard loom.
13. A woven textile product according to claim 7, wherein two single warp yarns consisting of very fine or ultra-fine yarns are connected together to form a full width warp yarn of 330cm on a jacquard loom.
14. The woven textile of any of claims 1-5, 8, 9, and 10, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
15. The woven textile of claim 6, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
16. The woven textile of claim 7, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
17. The woven textile of claim 11, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
18. The woven textile of claim 12, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
19. The woven textile of claim 13, wherein the irregular pattern in the textile is defined by a plurality of different weave patterns selected from the group consisting of herringbone weave, twill weave, diamond weave, and plain weave.
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US6918410B1 (en) * 2001-03-30 2005-07-19 Berger Seiba-Technotex Verwaltungs Gmbh & Co. Method for fabricating wovens
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CN1844525B (en) * 2006-04-28 2011-05-25 恒源祥(集团)有限公司 Superfine wool fabric and its weaving method
CN107139547A (en) * 2016-03-01 2017-09-08 卞平芳 A kind of positive and negative staggeredly jacquard weave environment-friendly plus material
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