CN1331458C - 抗皮肤老化化妆品及生产方法 - Google Patents
抗皮肤老化化妆品及生产方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN1331458C CN1331458C CNB2004100336979A CN200410033697A CN1331458C CN 1331458 C CN1331458 C CN 1331458C CN B2004100336979 A CNB2004100336979 A CN B2004100336979A CN 200410033697 A CN200410033697 A CN 200410033697A CN 1331458 C CN1331458 C CN 1331458C
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- pulchinenoside
- cosmetics
- ginsenoside
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 229930191447 pulchinenoside Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 230000002255 enzymatic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000000413 hydrolysate Substances 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000001397 quillaja saponaria molina bark Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229930182490 saponin Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
- -1 triterpenes saponin Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000003147 glycosyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000009806 pulsatillae Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000002338 glycosides Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 abstract description 34
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 abstract description 34
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- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 abstract description 14
- AGBCLJAHARWNLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N (20R)-ginsenoside Rg2 Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(C)OC1OC1C(OC2C3C(C)(C)C(O)CCC3(C)C3C(C4(CCC(C4C(O)C3)C(C)(O)CCC=C(C)C)C)(C)C2)OC(CO)C(O)C1O AGBCLJAHARWNLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 11
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- PWAOOJDMFUQOKB-WCZZMFLVSA-N ginsenoside Re Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O[C@@H]2[C@H]3C(C)(C)[C@@H](O)CC[C@]3(C)[C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@H]([C@H]4[C@H](O)C3)[C@](C)(CCC=C(C)C)O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O3)O)C)(C)C2)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O PWAOOJDMFUQOKB-WCZZMFLVSA-N 0.000 abstract description 11
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- JURZHOVRCOWZFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N notoginsenoside R1 Natural products CC(=CCCC(C)(OC1OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C1O)C2CCC3(C)C2C(O)CC4C5(C)CCC(O)C(C)(C)C5C(CC34C)OC6OC(COC7OCC(O)C(O)C7O)C(O)C(O)C6O)C JURZHOVRCOWZFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 11
- RAQNTCRNSXYLAH-RFCGZQMISA-N (20S)-ginsenoside Rh1 Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@H]2C(C)(C)[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]2C[C@@H](O)[C@H]3[C@@]([C@@]2(C1)C)(C)CC[C@@H]3[C@@](C)(O)CCC=C(C)C)[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O RAQNTCRNSXYLAH-RFCGZQMISA-N 0.000 abstract description 10
- RAQNTCRNSXYLAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ginsenoside Rh1 Natural products CC(C)=CCCC(C)(O)C1CCC(C2(C3)C)(C)C1C(O)CC2C1(C)CCC(O)C(C)(C)C1C3OC1OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C1O RAQNTCRNSXYLAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 10
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- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 abstract 1
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- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 13
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- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 6
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- QPJVMBTYPHYUOC-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl benzoate Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 QPJVMBTYPHYUOC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 description 3
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开一种抗皮肤老化化妆品,是在化妆品主料中添加有白头翁皂苷酶解产物。其生产方法是将白头翁皂苷酶解产物加热至70~80℃溶解,再与其他化妆品主料混合。经常搽用此化妆品,可明显促进皮肤纤维芽细胞的胶原蛋白的合成,有效改善皮肤皱纹,具有抗皮肤老化作用。
Description
技术领域:
本发明涉及一种化妆品及生产方法,尤其是一种可促进皮肤胶原蛋白合成,抗皮肤老化的化妆品及生产方法。
背景技术:
皮肤的纤维芽细胞的胶原蛋白的量,对保持肌肤青春光泽、抗老化等具有重要意义。年轻人真皮组织的胶原蛋白一般占90%以上,随着年龄的增长真皮中胶原蛋白的量会逐渐减少。又由于皮肤经常暴露于外界,紫外线光老化的皮肤与正常皮肤相比,其胶原蛋白的量也明显减少。胶原蛋白的减少使皮肤厚度相应变薄,皮肤所形成的网眼儿状结构从而变的脆弱、老化,出现皮肤皱纹、松懈、暗淡、色素沉淀等现象。为了防止真皮内胶原蛋白的减少而带来种种皮肤形态的变化,有的使用维生素A或维生素A酸衍生物等作为胶原蛋白合成的促进剂,促进胶原蛋白的合成,以维持真皮中胶原蛋白的含量。但是,这些物质本身不稳定且对皮肤具有很强的刺激性。也有的采用特殊的制剂制成抗老化化妆品(日专利公开号15-292420、15-081737),但价格昂贵,普通消费者难以接受。此外,还有用维生素C和其衍生物等促进皮肤胶原蛋白的合成,但色泽持久性和稳定性很差,应用受到限制。日本专利号为JP-8133955A的专利文件公开了一种“皮肤外用剂”,其组分中有白头翁皂苷,但是该白头翁皂苷是未经酶解的、大多是含4-5个糖基的白头翁皂苷,却不具备促进皮肤纤维芽细胞胶原蛋白合成的作用。
发明内容:
本发明是为了解决现有技术所存在的性能不稳定、价格昂贵的技术问题,提供一种可促进胶原蛋白合成、对皮肤无副作用的抗皮肤老化化妆品及生产方法。
本发明的技术解决方案是:一种抗皮肤老化化妆品,一种抗皮肤老化化妆品,是在化妆品主料中添加有含羟基的三萜类皂苷,所述的含羟基的三萜类皂苷是白头翁皂苷酶解产物。
各组份质量百分比如下:
白头翁皂苷酶解产物 0.0001%10%
化妆品主料 余量
所述的白头翁皂苷酶解产物的最佳含量为0.001%2%。
所述的白头翁皂苷酶解产物为白头翁甙元或含1-3糖基的白头翁皂苷中的至少一种。
将白头翁皂苷酶解产物加热至70~80℃溶解,再与其他化妆品主料混合。
本发明是在化妆品主料中添加了可明显促进皮肤纤维芽细胞胶原蛋白合成的白头翁皂苷酶解产物,经常搽用此化妆品,可促进真皮中胶原蛋白的合成,有效改善皮肤皱纹,具有抗皮肤老化作用。
具体实施方式:
本发明所述的化妆品主料是指常用的皮肤外用剂:如油脂类、酯类、碳水化合物、腊类、低级醇、高级醇、多价醇类、脂肪酸类、界面活性剂、水溶性高分子类、香料、水等物质;当然化妆主料中还可加入常用的抗老化剂、保湿剂、催毛剂、育毛剂、皮肤吸收促进剂、紫外线吸收剂、细胞复活剂、抗炎症剂、美白剂、防腐防霉剂等外用剂。
本发明实施例中所用的人参皂苷Rg2、人参皂苷Rh1以及其20(S)-和20(R)-异构体、人参皂苷Re可在市场上购买,而白头翁皂苷的酶解产物可用中国发明专利申请(03133638.8)所公开的方法得到。
实施例1:
(A)
人参皂苷Rg2 2.0%
精制加氢大豆磷脂 0.5%
肉蔻酸甘油酯butyl myristate pentastearate 3.0%
Selachyl alcohol鲛类多醇 2.0%
软脂酸十六烷 4.0%
精制橄榄角鲨烷 10.0%
3乙基己酸甘油酯Triethylhexanoin 8.0%
鲸醋酸 6.0%
苯甲酸甲酯 0.2%
(B)
甘油 3.0%
Xanthan gum微生物胶2%的水溶液 10.0%
苯甲酸甲酯 0.2%
精制水 51.1%
将A、B分别加热到80℃,均一溶解,在混合器中将A边搅拌边加入B进行乳化后,边搅拌边冷却至35℃即可。
实施例2:
(A)
人参皂苷Rh1 0.0001%
硬脂酸甘油 5.0%
POE(25)聚氧乙基醚 1.5%
3癸酸甘油酯 7.0%
鲸醋酸 5.0%
羟苯甲酸丙酯 0.2%
(B)
l,3-丁二醇 1.5%
苯甲酸甲酯 0.2%
精制水 59.3999%
(C)
Xanthan gum2%的水溶液 10.0%
EDTA二钠 0.2%
精制水 10.0%
制备方法:将A、B分别加热到80℃均一溶解,将B溶解边加入到A乳化后,边搅拌边冷却到50℃时添加C,冷却至35℃即可。
实施例3:
(A)
人参皂苷Re 0.2%
POE(40)硬化蓖麻油 1.5%
1,3-丁二醇 5.0%
一缩二丙二醇 5.0%
苯甲酸甲酯 0.2%
(B)
Chamomilla recutita花浸出物 0.2%
透明质酸钠1%水溶液 5.0%
精制水 82.9%
制备方法:将A在70℃下加热到均一溶解,B在室温下混合均匀。在室温下边搅拌A边逐步加入B,溶化即可。
实施例4:
(A)
白头翁皂苷的酶解产物 10%
精制加氢大豆磷脂 1.0%
精制橄榄角鲨烷 10.0%
季戊四醇基四乙基己酸Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate 6.0%
羟苯甲酸丙脂 0.2%
(B)
Acrylates/C10-C30 Alky1 Acrylate Crosspolymer 15%
Xanthan gum胶2%的水溶液 10.0%
精制水 14.4%
(C)
透明质酸钠1%水溶液 1.0%
1,3-丁二醇 7.0%
苯甲酸甲酯 0.2%
精制水 20.2%
(D)
精氨酸 0.2%
精制水 4.8%
制备方法:将A、B、C分别加热到80℃,均一溶解,把B加到C中混合均匀后,再加入A,边搅拌边冷却至50℃时加入D,冷却至35℃即可。
实施例5:
其他同实施例1,只是人参皂苷Rg2为其异构体20(S)-Rg2或20(R)-Rg2,或者异构体20(S)-Rg2和20(R)-Rg2的混合物。
实施例6:
其他同实施例2,只是人参皂苷Rh1为其异构体20(S)-Rh1或20(R)-Rh1,或者异构体20(S)-Rh1和20(R)-Rh1的混合物。
实施例7:
其他同实施例4,只是白头翁皂苷的酶解产物为白头翁甙元或含1-3糖基的白头翁皂苷。或白头翁皂苷的酶解产物为白头翁甙元、含1-3糖基的白头翁皂苷、人参皂苷Rg2、Rh1、Re的混合物,其中人参皂苷Rg2、Rh1可为异构体20(S)-Rg2和20(R)-Rg2或异构体20(S)-Rh1和20(R)-Rh1。
以上实施例的纤维芽细胞的胶原蛋白合成测定:
将纤维芽细胞接种于含有5%的小牛的血清(FBS)的DMEM培养基上,分放于96孔板中、培养。24小时后,换成含有规定浓度样品(人参皂苷Rg2、人参皂苷Rh1、人参皂苷Re或白头翁皂苷的酶解产物)的5%FBS的DMEM溶液,参比为使用50μM的抗坏血酸磷酸镁进行。用含样品的培养基培养48小时以后,测定总蛋白和胶原蛋白含量。总蛋白质的量用0.1%的Triton X-100溶液将细胞破碎溶解后,采用Lowry法测定。胶原蛋白含量和胶元蛋白标准曲线用ELISA抗体法测定。培养好的上清加入到强吸附SUMILON MULTI WELLPLATE H TYPE plate(日本住友产品),在4℃过夜,加入1%的小牛血清蛋白(BSA)溶液37℃下保持1小时;加入用0.3%的BSA溶液稀释过的人胶原蛋白抗体(Anti-HumanCollagen Type l antibody,Rabbit)作在37℃反应1小时的第一次抗体反应;二次抗体用0.3%的BSA溶液稀释100倍的PO(Rabbit)抗体在37℃条件下反应1小时;在用0.3mg/ml浓度的的2、2偶氮(3-乙基联苯胺-6-磺酸)二铵盐[2,2-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzoline-6-sulfonic acid)diammouiumsalt(ABTS)](溶解在0.1M,pH4.0的磷酸-柠檬酸缓冲液),反应20分钟,测定405nm波长的的吸光值。
以上实施例的胶原蛋白合成能力的测定:培养基中的胶原蛋白的量由相同方法所测得的标准曲线查得。通过ELISA所测定培养基中的胶原蛋白的量除以由Lowry法测定总蛋白质量,就可以计算出细胞所生成的胶原蛋白的产生量。胶原蛋白的产生能力为:
将没有添加样品培养的细胞的胶原蛋白的合成能力作为100,样品各浓度下的试剂培养的细胞的吸光度用lndex(%)来表示。胶原蛋白合成试验结果,用Student T法处理试验误差,评估效果。
试验结果:白头翁皂苷的发酵分解产物以及人参皂苷Rg2、Rh1的结果由表1表示,人参皂苷Re的结果由表2表示。根据表1和表2的结果,不同程度的加入了人参皂苷Rg2、人参皂苷Rh1、人参皂苷Re白头翁皂苷的酶解产物的情况与没有加入这些物质的情况相比,胶原蛋白的量有明显地增加。
表1白头翁以及Rg2+Rh纤维芽细胞的I型胶原蛋白的合成的促进作用(n=6)
胶原蛋白lndex(%ofcontrol)平均值±标准差P(t-test) | 蛋白质量(μg)平均值±标准P(t-test) | ||||
0 | 100.00± | 1.000 | 11.53±0.33 | 1.000 | |
PC | 170.06±13.45 | 0.000 | 12.48±0.37 | 0.004 | |
白头翁皂苷的酶解产物(一个糖基)(μM) | 0.11.0010.00 | 124.49±10.80121.87±11.89151.33±9.89 | 0.0240.0260.000 | 11.61±0.3912.30±0.6211.50±0.34 | 0.7360.0410.875 |
人参皂苷Rh1+Rg2(μM) | 0.101.0010.00 | 123.17±7.23118.78±6.47112.84±4.49 | 0.0060.0100.010 | 11.38±0.4811.75±0.5411.48±0.17 | 0.5810.4650.768 |
PC:50μM的抗坏血酸磷酸镁盐
白头翁皂苷的酶解产物:18-C糖基皂苷、甙元、含两个糖基皂苷和其混合物等促进纤维芽细胞合成胶原蛋白能力很接近,略数据。
人参皂苷20(S)-和20(R)-Rg2、20(S)-和20(R)Rh1单独使用时,促进纤维芽细胞合成胶原蛋白能力很接近,略数据。
表2人参皂苷Re纤维芽细胞的I型胶原蛋白的合成的促进作用(n=6)
conc | 胶原蛋白lndex(%ofcontro1)平均值±标准差P(t-test) | 蛋白质量(μg)平均值±标准差P(t-test) | |||
0 | 100.00±3.67 | 1.000 | 11.75±0.43 | 1.000 | |
PC | 140.78±5.84 | 0.000 | 12.07±0.28 | 0.201 | |
人参皂苷Re(μM) | 0.101.0010.00 | 117.58±7.44130.03±9.66117.89±9.54 | 0.0100.0020.023 | 11.42±0.2011.78±0.2811.70±019 | 0.1670.8880.839 |
PC:50μM的抗坏血酸磷酸镁盐
化学结构图:
本发明实施例所涉及的人参皂苷Rg2、Rh1、Re和白头翁皂苷的酶解产物的化学结构式:
1、人参皂苷Rg2:
20(S)-Rg2 20(R)-Rg2
(式中Glc是葡萄糖,Rha表示鼠李糖)
2、人参皂苷Rh1:
20(S)-Rh1 20(R)-Rh1
(式中Glc是葡萄糖)
3、人参皂苷Re
(式中Glc是葡萄糖,Rha表示鼠李糖)
4、白头翁皂苷酶解产物:
3-C单糖皂苷 18-C单糖皂苷 白头翁2糖基皂苷 皂苷甙元
(式中Glc是葡萄糖,Ara为阿拉伯糖).
Claims (5)
1.一种抗皮肤老化化妆品,是在化妆品主料中添加有三萜类皂苷,其特征在于:所述的三萜类皂苷是白头翁皂苷酶解产物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的抗皮肤老化化妆品,其特征在于:所述的白头翁皂苷酶解产物占总质量的百分比为0.0001-10%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的抗皮肤老化化妆品,其特征在于:所述的白头翁皂苷酶解产物占总质量的百分比为0.001%-2%。
4.根据权利要求1或2或3所述的抗皮肤老化化妆品,其特征在于:所述的白头翁皂苷酶解产物为白头翁甙元、含1-3糖基的白头翁皂苷单体或者其混合物。
5.一种抗皮肤老化化妆品的生产方法,其特征在于:将白头翁皂苷酶解产物加热至70~80℃溶解,再与其他化妆品主料混合。
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JPS60222409A (ja) * | 1984-04-20 | 1985-11-07 | Kenichi Kido | ヘアトニック組成物 |
JPH05331044A (ja) * | 1992-05-27 | 1993-12-14 | Tsumura & Co | 浴用剤組成物 |
JPH07138175A (ja) * | 1993-11-17 | 1995-05-30 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | 人参サポニン製造法 |
JPH08133955A (ja) * | 1994-11-07 | 1996-05-28 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 皮膚外用剤 |
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JPH05331044A (ja) * | 1992-05-27 | 1993-12-14 | Tsumura & Co | 浴用剤組成物 |
JPH07138175A (ja) * | 1993-11-17 | 1995-05-30 | Pola Chem Ind Inc | 人参サポニン製造法 |
JPH08133955A (ja) * | 1994-11-07 | 1996-05-28 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 皮膚外用剤 |
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