CN118147805A - 衬衫面料 - Google Patents

衬衫面料 Download PDF

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CN118147805A
CN118147805A CN202410216731.3A CN202410216731A CN118147805A CN 118147805 A CN118147805 A CN 118147805A CN 202410216731 A CN202410216731 A CN 202410216731A CN 118147805 A CN118147805 A CN 118147805A
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yarn
yarns
solution
polyester fiber
spinning
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彭丽丽
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Beijing Jintianshi Clothing Co ltd
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Beijing Jintianshi Clothing Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种衬衫面料，涉及纺织织物领域，其技术方案要点是：应用于制备混纺材质的衣物，由若干股超细旦混纺纱经纬编织而成，超细旦混纺纱于织物表面编织形成沿经向方向阵列设置的若干三角纹理，三角纹理沿纬向方向循环阵列形成呈连续设置。本发明通过湿法纺丝以及离子置换方式能在聚酯纤维异形纱外形成纤维包覆，具有良好的整体性和复合度，在后续拉伸定型阶段，可实现纱线的超细旦的加工，并在纺丝液中加入功能助剂，能提高超细旦混纺纱的抗菌及抗静电性能，且本申请选用羊绒丝、桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱与聚酯纤维异形纱、氨纶纤维进行复合制成的超细旦纱线，以变化斜纹组织编织成三角纹路，能提高织物的柔软度和舒适度。

Description

衬衫面料
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织织物，更具体地说，它涉及一种衬衫面料。
背景技术
衬衫是一种穿在内外上衣之间、也可单独穿用的上衣，男衬衫通常胸前有口袋，袖口有袖头。衬衫也常应用于各种场合的着装，尤其是在商务活动场所为人所常用。
衬衫的材质根据季节和应用的场所也有许多分类，例如夏季常有亚麻、细麻等竹、麻纤维材质的纱线织造而成，而春秋季的衬纱又有棉、精梳棉材质的纱线进行制造，为具有良好的免烫、速干等性能时，也常使用涤纶、锦纶等化纤材质的纱线进行织造。
为迎合市场需求，今年来复合纱线的应用也广泛应用在服装面料上，例如棉麻混纺纱涤棉混纺纱、涤氨混纺纱等复合纱线层出不穷，但目前市面上的复合方式通常采用将多种材质的纱线通过加捻、并线等将多种单一的材质合股成混纺纱，虽能实现混纺纱具有多种纱线具备的物理特性，但是仅通过合并加捻的方式在混合多种材质的纱线或纤维时，难以达到较细的纱线，使得面料的单位克重较大，织物较为厚实、质地硬。
因此需要提出一种新的方案来解决这个问题。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种衬衫面料。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的：一种衬衫面料，应用于制备混纺材质的衣物，由若干股超细旦混纺纱经纬编织而成，所述超细旦混纺纱于织物表面编织形成沿经向方向阵列设置的若干三角纹理，所述三角纹理沿纬向方向循环阵列形成呈连续设置；
其制备步骤包括：
备料，取聚酯纤维异形纱、羊绒丝、桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱、粘胶纤维以及氨纶纤维，并按比例分类备用；
纺丝，将羊绒丝、粘胶纤维以涡流纺工艺与氨纶纤维在极限拉伸状态下纺丝成细旦混纺纱；
湿法纺丝，将桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱溶解于碱溶液中制成纤维素原液，将聚酯纤维异形纱置于纤维素原液中浸轧处理，纤维素原液经离子置换于聚酯纤维异形纱的异形沟壑内形成初生丝；
并纱，将细旦混纺纱和初生丝加弹合股得到复合纱；
干燥，将复合纱经高温定型烘箱进行定型拉伸；
上油；
织造。
本发明进一步设置为：所述复合纱按各组分百分比，包括：聚酯纤维57％，莫代尔纤维18％，粘胶纤维13％，桑蚕丝7％，羊绒4％，氨纶纤维1％。
本发明进一步设置为：所述湿法纺丝的具体步骤包括：
步骤一，将聚酯纤维异形纱经磨毛工艺处理后，浸湿得到湿聚酯纤维异形纱；
步骤二，将桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱经切割后混合后溶解至碱溶液中，桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱的质量比为1:56，得到纤维素原液；
步骤三，将纤维素原液中混合海藻酸钠溶液和抗菌整理剂，得到含有海藻酸钠碱溶液和抗菌整理剂的纤维素纺丝液；
步骤四，聚酯纤维异形纱浸至纤维素纺丝液后，将聚酯纤维异形纱再经过含碳酸钙溶液进行离子置换，得到初生丝。
本发明进一步设置为：所述并纱的具体方法包括：将初生丝作为缠绕纱并将细旦混纺纱作为芯纱，捻度为1900-2000。
本发明进一步设置为：所述步骤三的具体步骤包括：将浓度为6-7g/L的硝酸银和浓度1-5g/L的二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵混合得到混合水溶液，而后加入0.2％助剂JL-S12，而后加入浓度为0.1-2％的海藻酸钠溶液，充分搅拌均匀而后加入至纤维素原液中，继续搅拌5-10min至均匀，得到纤维素纺丝液。
本发明进一步设置为：所述三角纹理由超细旦混纺纱编织成变化斜纹组织形成，所述变化斜纹组织的经浮点为浮、纬浮点为沉，其组织结构为：浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮、浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉，沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮，沿经向方向阵列设置。
本发明进一步设置为：依照变化斜纹组织的组织结构制造得到坯布，而后对坯布进行开卷、整幅后，经蒸汽定型对坯布进行蒸定，通过蒸汽增加坯布的湿度，在水分湿润坯布时，海藻酸钠与碳酸钙离子置换得到海藻酸钙在湿润条件小形成凝胶状，提供若干超细旦混纺纱之间的粘接作用力。
本发明进一步设置为：还包括将坯布蒸汽定型后，送入高温定型机内进行平幅定型。
综上所述，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1、本申请的衬纱面料采用超细旦混纺纱以经纬编织的方式进行织造，通过采用超细旦混纺纱，使织物能具备细腻平整的质地，而且编织形成位于织物表面且先经向方向阵列设置的三角纹理结构，使得织物具有光泽度高、柔软、透气、透光、层次感强等优点；
2、超细旦混纺纱采用羊绒丝、粘胶纤维以及氨纶纤维在极限拉伸状态下纺丝制成细旦混纺纱，并采用湿法纺丝工艺，将桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱经碱溶解形成纤维素纺丝液，而后通过湿法纺丝以及离子置换方式能在聚酯纤维异形纱外形成纤维包覆，实现莫代尔纤维、桑蚕丝与聚酯纤维的高度复合，具有良好的整体性和复合度，在后续拉伸定型阶段，可实现纱线的超细旦的加工；
3、纤维素纺丝液中加入抗菌整理剂，能在纺丝阶段添加抗菌助剂，能增加超细旦混纺纱的抗菌性能。
4、聚酯纤维异形纱经过磨毛工艺进行处理，能增加聚酯纤维异形纱的表面粗糙度，在充分湿润后，能增加在湿法纺丝阶段纺丝的牢度。
附图说明
图1为本发明的结构示意图；
图2为本实施例的织物效果图。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明实施例，对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都涉及本发明保护的范围。
一种衬衫面料，应用于制备混纺材质的衣物，由若干股超细旦混纺纱经纬编织而成，超细旦混纺纱于织物表面编织形成沿经向方向阵列设置的若干三角纹理，三角纹理沿纬向方向循环阵列形成呈连续设置；
其制备步骤包括：
备料，取聚酯纤维异形纱、羊绒丝、桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱、粘胶纤维以及氨纶纤维，并按比例分类备用，具体比例为：聚酯纤维57：莫代尔纤维18：粘胶纤维13：桑蚕丝7：羊绒4：氨纶纤维1，并按照各分量的增加1％的物料作为备用；
纺丝，将羊绒丝、粘胶纤维以涡流纺工艺与氨纶纤维在极限拉伸状态下纺丝成细旦混纺纱，具体将若干氨纶纤维束自纺杯的中心穿过，而羊绒丝和粘胶纤维通过气流纺机在高速回转所产生的离心力可把抓取的纤维甩出，形成纤维流，沿着杯壁最后汇集至氨纶纤维束外，通过假捻形成复合的细旦混纺纱；
湿法纺丝，将桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱溶解于碱溶液中制成纤维素原液，将聚酯纤维异形纱置于纤维素原液中浸轧处理，纤维素原液经离子置换于聚酯纤维异形纱的异形沟壑内形成初生丝；
并纱，将细旦混纺纱和初生丝加弹合股得到复合纱，具体的，将初生丝作为缠绕纱并将细旦混纺纱作为芯纱，捻度为1900-2000，通过高捻度，能使细旦混纺纱和初生丝在加捻下制成细度比较细的超细旦混纺纱；
干燥，将复合纱经高温定型烘箱进行定型拉伸，具体将复合纱牵引经过热辊实施拉伸定型后至卷绕机卷绕，设置卷绕速度为1000-1500m/min，拉伸温度为140-260℃、定型温度在200-350℃，将复合纱牵伸定型至100-120支；
上油，将经牵伸定型后的复合纱经上油辊浸渍硅油后经风干后收卷、分络至若干络纱筒上；
织造，将各个络纱筒设置至经纬编织机上，经纬编织机采用峡山区岞山街道创云纺织机械厂型号为1511GA615-44的梭织织布机进行织造得到坯布，而后将坯布热风预热后，经蒸汽定型进行平幅加湿，最后经高温平幅定型、包装。
其中，湿法纺丝的具体步骤包括：
步骤一，将聚酯纤维异形纱经磨毛工艺处理后，浸湿得到湿聚酯纤维异形纱；
步骤二，将桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱经切割后混合后溶解至碱溶液中，桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱的质量比为1:56，得到纤维素原液；
步骤三，将纤维素原液中混合海藻酸钠溶液和抗菌整理剂，得到含有海藻酸钠碱溶液和抗菌整理剂的纤维素纺丝液，具体的，将浓度为6-7g/L的硝酸银和浓度1-5g/L的二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵混合得到混合水溶液，而后加入滨州市聚力化工有限公司制造生产的助剂JL-S12，浓度为0.2％，而后加入浓度为0.1-2％的海藻酸钠溶液，充分搅拌均匀而后加入至纤维素原液中，继续搅拌5-10min至均匀，得到纤维素纺丝液，通过助剂JL-S12，使得具备抗静电整理的功能，在将硝酸银和二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵溶液进行混合，通过银离子作用，实现抗菌整理的目的，并结合抗静电整理助剂，使得纱线浸渍在纤维素纺丝液内时，消除静电的影响并提高纱线的抗静电性能，消除超细旦混纺纱在织造时受静电的影响；
步骤四，聚酯纤维异形纱浸至纤维素纺丝液后，将聚酯纤维异形纱再经过含碳酸钙溶液进行离子置换，得到初生丝。
如图1所示，三角纹理由超细旦混纺纱编织成变化斜纹组织形成，变化斜纹组织的经浮点为浮、纬浮点为沉，其组织结构为：浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮、浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉，沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮，沿经向方向阵列设置，依照变化斜纹组织的组织结构制造得到坯布，而后对坯布进行开卷、整幅后，经蒸汽定型对坯布进行蒸定，通过蒸汽增加坯布的湿度，在水分湿润坯布时，海藻酸钠与碳酸钙离子置换得到海藻酸钙在湿润条件小形成凝胶状，提供若干超细旦混纺纱之间的粘接作用力。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，本发明的保护范围并不仅局限于上述实施例，凡属于本发明思路下的技术方案均属于本发明的保护范围。应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理前提下的若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (8)

1.一种衬衫面料，其特征在于：应用于制备混纺材质的衣物，由若干股超细旦混纺纱经纬编织而成，所述超细旦混纺纱于织物表面编织形成沿经向方向阵列设置的若干三角纹理，所述三角纹理沿纬向方向循环阵列形成呈连续设置；
其制备步骤包括：
备料，取聚酯纤维异形纱、羊绒丝、桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱、粘胶纤维以及氨纶纤维，并按比例分类备用；
纺丝，将羊绒丝、粘胶纤维以涡流纺工艺与氨纶纤维在极限拉伸状态下纺丝成细旦混纺纱；
湿法纺丝，将桑蚕丝、莫代尔纱溶解于碱溶液中制成纤维素原液，将聚酯纤维异形纱置于纤维素原液中浸轧处理，纤维素原液经离子置换于聚酯纤维异形纱的异形沟壑内形成初生丝；
并纱，将细旦混纺纱和初生丝加弹合股得到复合纱；
干燥，将复合纱经高温定型烘箱进行定型拉伸；
上油；
织造。
2.根据权利要求1所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：所述复合纱按各组分百分比，包括：聚酯纤维57％，莫代尔纤维18％，粘胶纤维13％，桑蚕丝7％，羊绒4％，氨纶纤维1％。
3.根据权利要求1所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：所述湿法纺丝的具体步骤包括：
步骤一，将聚酯纤维异形纱经磨毛工艺处理后，浸湿得到湿聚酯纤维异形纱；
步骤二，将桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱经切割后混合后溶解至碱溶液中，桑蚕丝和莫代尔纱的质量比为1:56，得到纤维素原液；
步骤三，将纤维素原液中混合海藻酸钠溶液和抗菌整理剂，得到含有海藻酸钠碱溶液和抗菌整理剂的纤维素纺丝液；
步骤四，聚酯纤维异形纱浸至纤维素纺丝液后，将聚酯纤维异形纱再经过含碳酸钙溶液进行离子置换，得到初生丝。
4.根据权利要求1所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：所述并纱的具体方法包括：将初生丝作为缠绕纱并将细旦混纺纱作为芯纱，捻度为1900-2000。
5.根据权利要求3所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：所述步骤三的具体步骤包括：将浓度为6-7g/L的硝酸银和浓度1-5g/L的二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵混合得到混合水溶液，而后加入0.2％助剂JL-S12，而后加入浓度为0.1-2％的海藻酸钠溶液，充分搅拌均匀而后加入至纤维素原液中，继续搅拌5-10min至均匀，得到纤维素纺丝液。
6.根据权利要求1所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：所述三角纹理由超细旦混纺纱编织成变化斜纹组织形成，所述变化斜纹组织的经浮点为浮、纬浮点为沉，其组织结构为：浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮沉浮、浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉，沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮浮沉浮浮，沿经向方向阵列设置。
7.根据权利要求6所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：依照变化斜纹组织的组织结构制造得到坯布，而后对坯布进行开卷、整幅后，经蒸汽定型对坯布进行蒸定，通过蒸汽增加坯布的湿度，在水分湿润坯布时，海藻酸钠与碳酸钙离子置换得到海藻酸钙在湿润条件小形成凝胶状，提供若干超细旦混纺纱之间的粘接作用力。
8.根据权利要求7所述的衬衫面料，其特征在于：还包括将坯布蒸汽定型后，送入高温定型机内进行平幅定型。
CN202410216731.3A 2024-02-27 2024-02-27 衬衫面料 Pending CN118147805A (zh)

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