CN117205106A - Multiple-emulsified moisturizing repair cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Multiple-emulsified moisturizing repair cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117205106A CN117205106A CN202311102216.4A CN202311102216A CN117205106A CN 117205106 A CN117205106 A CN 117205106A CN 202311102216 A CN202311102216 A CN 202311102216A CN 117205106 A CN117205106 A CN 117205106A
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- parts
- moisturizing
- skin
- weight
- repair cream
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Classifications
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Abstract
The invention provides a multiple emulsified moisturizing repair cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizing repair cream comprises the following components: the skin barrier repairing agent comprises a skin barrier repairing agent, a humectant, an emollient and an emulsifying agent, wherein the emulsifying agent is a combination of sucrose monostearate, cetyl palmitate, glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, the total weight part of the sucrose monostearate and the cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight part of the glycerol stearate and the PEG-100 stearate is b, and the a is (5-7) 1. The preparation method of the moisturizing repair cream is a one-step emulsification method, time and labor are saved, the moisturizing agent is simultaneously present in the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase, the moisturizing capability of the material body can be greatly improved, the moisturizing repair cream has the refreshing skin feel of an O/W system and the moisturizing effect of W/O, and the moisturizing repair cream can effectively repair skin barriers, relieve redness, sensitivity and other skin problems on the basis of effectively ensuring the moisture content of skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to multiple-emulsified moisturizing and repairing cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the high-speed development of economy, the living standard is greatly improved, the requirements of consumers on personal care products are higher and higher, the daily basic skin care requirements are not met, the higher requirements on the efficacy of the products are met, and the products are required to have good skin feel experience.
The skin barrier function is damaged by various reasons, and the following main factors are removed: improper long-term skin care, excessive cleaning; receiving non-professional cosmetic treatment; long-term or nonstandard topical glucocorticoids; impaired skin barrier function due to improper care after facial exfoliation, laser-based, minimally invasive treatment, etc.; excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation or sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation. After the skin barrier is damaged, the skin has insufficient self-defense capacity, so that the skin is sensitive, aged, dry and desquamated, and meanwhile, various allergens penetrate through the skin defense line, so that skin problems such as eczema, atopic dermatitis, skin pruritus and the like are caused. To restore the barrier function of the skin, it is most important to repair the lipid structure, and the composition of the lipids is ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids.
The skin hydration state is also extremely important for the repair of the barrier, and skin moisturizing care must be performed to keep the skin moist at all times. Moisturizing formulations are an important component of basic skin care for many skin conditions caused by increased skin moisture loss and decreased water content of the stratum corneum due to damage to the stratum corneum permeation barrier caused by different factors. The moisture retention agent, which is reasonably matched, helps the internal self-repair of the stratum corneum, can keep the moisture content at a level higher than that required for maintaining the physiological stratum corneum enzyme function, so as to accelerate the repair of the stratum corneum permeation barrier, thereby maintaining the structural and functional integrity of the stratum corneum permeation barrier.
Emulsions widely used in the traditional sense are two-phase emulsions of the oil-in-water (O/W) type and the water-in-oil (W/O) type. The personal care products currently on the market are classified from formulation systems, mostly of the O/W type, and rarely of the W/O type. The W/O type emulsion has bright appearance and good moisturizing and protecting effects, but the external phase is an oil phase, so that the emulsion is easy to generate poor sticky feeling when being smeared; while the O/W type emulsion has good smearing property and fresh skin feel, the moisturizing effect and the moisturizing effect are not as good as those of the W/O type emulsion. The W/O/W type multiphase emulsion has the advantages of the two types of emulsion at the same time, and the external phase is a water phase, so that the use feeling is good and the coating and spreading performance is excellent; the spread part of the W/O type liquid drops further endows the product with good skin moisturizing performance.
CN114588075a discloses a W/O/W coated moisturizing emulsion, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein raw materials such as acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and ethylcellulose are added into an outer water phase, so that the stability of an inner oil phase water-in-oil emulsion is improved, the stability of the water-in-oil-in-water emulsion is improved, the particle size of emulsion liquid drops is reduced, and the emulsion prepared by the method has an excellent moisturizing effect.
CN1448120A discloses a W/O/W type multi-phase emulsion excellent in stability with time, which is free of a surfactant and excellent in stability, safety and usability. A W/O type multiphase emulsion which comprises 1 or more oil components selected from the group consisting of fatty acids and higher alcohols, 1 or more polymers soluble in the oil components, and 1 or more compounds selected from the group consisting of inorganic acid salts, organic acid salts, amino acids and salts thereof, and which has excellent stability over time in an aqueous phase.
CN101547685a discloses a W/O/W double emulsion composition composed of an inner aqueous phase containing an ionic physiologically active substance and a physiologically acceptable compound having a molecular weight of 1000 or less and generating a polyvalent counter ion of divalent or more to the ionic physiologically active substance, an oil phase and an outer aqueous phase. The W/O/W emulsion composition not only stably encapsulates a useful substance in its internal aqueous phase with a high encapsulation efficiency but also has high safety.
Currently, most of the skin repair products on the market only aim at one of skin cuticle lipid repair, traumatic wound repair and relief repair of skin with susceptibility to redness and inflammation, and few products for omnibearing repair appear. In the prior art, the process of the multiple emulsification system is mainly a two-step method, the W/O/W type multiphase emulsion is prepared, the W/O emulsion is required to be prepared firstly, and then the W/O emulsion is emulsified and wrapped by another layer of water phase, so that the process is complex and the time consumption is long.
Therefore, the development of the multiple emulsion repair cream which can effectively repair skin barriers, relieve skin problems such as redness and the like, has simple preparation process and short time consumption is the research focus in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide the multiple-emulsified moisturizing repair cream and the preparation method thereof, which can effectively repair skin barriers, relieve redness, sensitivity, dryness and other skin problems, and have simple preparation process and short time consumption.
In order to achieve the aim of the invention, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a multiple emulsified moisturizing repair cream, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
the emulsifier comprises a combination of sucrose monostearate, cetyl palmitate, glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate;
the total weight part of the sucrose multi-stearate and the cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight part of the glycerol stearate and the PEG-100 stearate is b, and the a is (5-7) 1.
The multiple emulsified moisturizing repair cream provided by the invention is moist but not sticky, can keep skin moist, and can be added with a skin barrier repair agent to effectively repair skin barriers, relieve redness, sensitivity and other skin problems; the invention adopts the sucrose monostearate and cetyl palmitate which are main emulsifiers of nonionic surface active type, the hydration degree of hydrophilic groups of the sucrose monostearate and the cetyl palmitate is reduced along with the temperature rise, the hydrophilicity is reduced, and the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value is also reduced. The W/O emulsion is easy to form at high temperature, the hydrophilicity is increased, the HLB value is also increased, and the emulsion starts to change phase, thereby being beneficial to forming the W/O/W emulsion. The auxiliary emulsifiers of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate with stronger affinity are added in proper amounts, so that the material can be helped to change phase from W/O state to W/O/W state in time after being cooled. Note that the amount of co-emulsifier should not be excessive, otherwise the mass is difficult to form W/O emulsion at high temperature.
Preferably, the total weight part of the sucrose multi-stearate and the cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight part of the glyceryl stearate and the PEG-100 stearate is b, and a: b is (5-7): 1, for example, can be 5.5:1, 6:1, 6.5:1, and the like.
The skin barrier repair agent is 1.5-13 parts, for example, 2 parts, 4 parts, 6 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, etc.
The humectant is 6-16 parts, for example, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts or 14 parts, etc.
The emollient is 10 to 24 parts, for example, 12 parts, 15 parts, 18 parts, 20 parts, etc.
The emulsifier is 2-6 parts, for example, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts or the like.
Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent comprises any one or a combination of at least two of ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside or panthenol.
Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent is a combination of ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside and panthenol.
Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent comprises 0.5-5 parts by weight of ceramide 3 liposome, for example, 0.6 parts, 1 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc., 0.2-1 parts of phytosterol ester, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.8 parts or 0.9 parts, etc., 0.2-2 parts of hydroxy-asiaticoside, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.8 parts, 1 parts, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, etc., 1-5 parts of panthenol, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc.
The skin barrier repairing agent comprises ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside and panthenol, and the four substances are synergistic, so that the repairing effect of the moisturizing repairing cream is effectively improved.
Ceramide 3 liposome comprises ceramide NP, cholesterol, hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, water and octyldodecanol, and firstly, ceramide is a lipid molecule formed by covalent bonding of a sphingosine chain and a fatty acid chain, and exists in a large amount in cell membranes and skin horny layer, and accounts for about 40% of skin horny layer lipids. And as a main component in intercellular lipids of the skin horny layer, ceramide not only has significance in the formation process of the skin horny layer, but also plays an important role as a second messenger molecule in the physiological pathway of sphingomyelin, and has the effects of maintaining skin barrier, moisturizing, resisting aging, whitening, treating diseases and the like.
Phytosterol esters (phytosterol oleate, β -sitosterol): phytosterol is a substance with a chemical structure similar to that of cholesterol (steroid) alcohol, can play a function similar to that of cholesterol (steroid) alcohol, is an active ingredient synthesized by plant tissues, and usually exists in plant essential oil and fat in the form of unsaponifiable matters. The plant sterol ester is prepared from plant sterol and fatty acid through esterification reaction or transesterification reaction, not only can contain physiological functions of the plant sterol, but also can effectively overcome short plates with limited solubility of the plant sterol in oil, and can improve bioavailability.
The madecassoside is one of the effective components of centella asiatica of Umbelliferae, belongs to triterpenoid saponins, has wide biological activity, and can promote wound healing, repair scars, resist bacteria, resist oxidation, resist inflammation, ease and promote fibroblast regeneration and other pharmacological effects. Modulation of the TGF-beta/Smad pathway (TGF-beta is a transforming growth factor) plays a key role in wound healing. Madecassoside is capable of down-regulating TGF-beta expression and promoting wound healing by increasing Smad7 expression, thereby repairing skin barrier lesions. Madecassoside can inhibit the skin inflammatory response caused by the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1 beta (interleukin). It can also down regulate the expression of neuroinflammatory genes and proteins, up regulate the level of neuroinflammatory component HO-1, and can effectively resist oxidative stress and inflammation of organisms, and is considered as a natural effective alternative method for treating neuroinflammation.
Panthenol (Panthenol) is a derivative of vitamin B5, also known as provitamin B5. Panthenol has effects of moisture absorption and water retention, promoting lipid synthesis, increasing fluidity of lipid molecules and keratin microfilaments, improving rigid environment between stratum corneum cells, and maintaining healthy skin barrier function. The soothing effect of panthenol comes mainly from two aspects. On the one hand, panthenol can protect against oxidative stress damage. Cells will produce reactive oxygen radicals under the influence of internal and external stress factors, and accumulated radicals will have adverse effects on skin health and aging when the cells have insufficient free radical scavenging capacity. Panthenol can reduce the generation of active oxygen free radicals in skin cells, and up-regulate the antioxidant mechanism of skin itself, including inducing skin cells to express more antioxidant factor-heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), thereby improving the antioxidant capacity of skin. On the other hand, the panthenol can reduce inflammatory reaction, and can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors after the panthenol is treated, thereby playing roles in reducing inflammatory reaction and relieving. Meanwhile, after the laser injury model is treated by using panthenol, the expression of a marker for keratinocyte proliferation is increased, which indicates that more keratinocytes enter a proliferation state and promote epidermal regeneration. Meanwhile, the expression of silk fibroin, an important marker of keratinocyte differentiation and barrier function, is also increased, indicating that panthenol has the effect of promoting skin barrier repair.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises 40-80 parts of water, for example, 45 parts, 50 parts, 60 parts, 70 parts or 75 parts, etc.
Preferably, the water is deionized water.
Preferably, the humectant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol or butanediol.
Preferably, the humectant is a combination of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol and butylene glycol.
Preferably, the humectant comprises 2-5 parts by weight of trehalose, for example, 2.5 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc., 0.03-0.2 parts by weight of hyaluronic acid, for example, 0.05 parts, 0.01 parts, 0.15 parts, etc., 1-4 parts by weight of glycerin, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, etc., 3-6 parts by weight of butylene glycol, for example, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, 5.5 parts, etc.
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail here.
Hyaluronic acid: hyaluronic Acid (HA) is acidic mucopolysaccharide, HAs various physiological functions of regulating protein, electrolyte diffusion and operation, promoting wound healing and the like, and HAs higher clinical value. The hyaluronic acid has skin protecting effect, and has high moisture keeping effect, and can keep skin moist and smooth, and restore skin physiological function. Hyaluronic acid plays a role in regulating various biological processes and maintaining in vivo dynamic balance, and it shows remarkable therapeutic effects in skin repair and in the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases.
Preferably, the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of camellia seed oil, argan kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter, tri (ethylhexanoate) or isononyl isononanoate.
Preferably, the emollient is a combination of camellia seed oil, argan kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter fruit ester, tri (ethylhexanoate) and isononyl isononanoate.
Preferably, the emollient comprises, for example, 1-5 parts by weight of camellia seed oil, for example, 1-3 parts by weight of argania spinosa kernel oil, for example, 1.5 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, or 2.5 parts by weight, for example, 1-3 parts by weight of squalane, for example, 1.5 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, or 2.5 parts by weight, or the like, 0.5-2 parts by weight of tocopheryl acetate, for example, 0.8 parts by weight, 1 parts by weight, or 1.5 parts by weight, or the like, 2-5 parts by weight of shea butter fruit ester, for example, 2.5 parts by weight, 3 parts by weight, or 3.5 parts by weight, or the like, 2-5 parts by weight of tri (ethyl hexanoate), for example, 2.5 parts by weight, 3 parts by weight, or 3.5 parts by weight, or the like, 1-3 parts by weight, for example, 1-5 parts by weight, or the like, for example, 1.5 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, or 2.5 parts by weight, or the like, or the tocopheryl acetate.
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail here.
Squalane: the squalane has certain similarity with squalene structure in sebum of human body, is a product of squalene hydrogenation, can be integrated with sebum membrane after use, and has better repairing effect on damage of a stratum corneum. Squalane can improve skin thinning and sensitive muscle, and relieve skin redness and itching. Squalane has good effect of promoting cell metabolism and can repair skin barrier function.
Camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil: is a high-grade natural woody edible oil, is rich in tea saponin, vitamin E, squalene, tea polyphenol, flavone and other active ingredients, and has the effects of resisting oxidation, resisting inflammation, resisting bacteria, promoting percutaneous absorption of medicines and the like. The camellia seed oil has better affinity with skin, wherein the tea soap has stronger oxidation resistance and hydroxyl radical removal capability, can delay skin aging, and is a protective agent and a wetting agent with good skin barrier. The camellia seed oil is glyceride mainly containing fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and palmitic acid, and is metabolized in vivo after percutaneous absorption to generate free fatty acids such as oleic acid and linoleic acid, so as to provide physiological fatty acids for skin barrier repair.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises 2-4 parts by weight of sucrose polystearate, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, etc., 1-3 parts of cetyl palmitate, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, etc., 0.1-0.5 part of glycerol stearate, for example, 0.2 parts, 0.3 parts, 0.4 parts, etc., and 0.1-0.5 part of PEG-100 stearate, for example, 0.2 parts, 0.3 parts, 0.4 parts, etc.
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail here.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises a thickener.
Preferably, the thickener is 0.2 to 0.7 parts, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.4 parts, 0.5 parts, or 0.6 parts, etc.
Preferably, the thickener comprises carbomers and/or xanthan gum.
Preferably, the thickener is a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum.
Preferably, the thickener comprises 0.2 to 0.5 parts by weight of carbomer, for example, 0.25 parts, 0.3 parts or 0.4 parts, etc., and 0.03 to 0.2 parts of xanthan gum, for example, 0.05 parts, 0.1 parts or 0.15 parts, etc.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises a pH neutralizer.
Preferably, the pH neutralizer is 0.05 to 0.25 parts, for example, may be 0.1 parts, 0.15 parts, 0.2 parts, or the like.
Preferably, the pH neutralizer is aminomethylpropanol.
Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises a bacteriostatic agent.
Preferably, the bacteriostat is 1-2 parts, for example, 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.8 parts, etc.
Preferably, the bacteriostat comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and/or 1, 2-hexanediol.
Preferably, the bacteriostat is a combination of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol.
Preferably, the bacteriostat comprises 0.2-0.8 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, for example, 0.3 part, 0.5 part or 0.7 part, etc., and 0.3-0.8 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, for example, 0.4 part, 0.5 part or 0.7 part, etc., in parts by weight.
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail here.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the moisturizing repair cream as provided in the first aspect, the method comprising: and uniformly mixing the skin barrier repairing agent, the humectant, the emollient, the emulsifier, the thickener, the pH neutralizer, the bacteriostat and the water to obtain the moisturizing repairing cream.
Preferably, the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the thickener, the humectant and the water, and heating and stirring to obtain a water phase component;
mixing the emulsifier and the emollient, and heating and stirring to obtain an oil phase component;
(2) Mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component, and carrying out first homogenizing stirring to obtain a water-in-oil material;
(3) And mixing the water-in-oil material with a pH neutralizer, a skin barrier repair agent and a bacteriostat to obtain a mixture, and carrying out secondary homogenizing stirring on the mixture to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.
Preferably, the temperature of the heating and stirring is 75-80 ℃, for example, 76 ℃, 77 ℃ or 78 ℃ and the like.
Preferably, the temperature of the heating and stirring is 70-75 ℃, for example, 72 ℃, 73 ℃, 74 ℃ or the like.
Preferably, the temperature of the first homogeneous stirring is 63-68 ℃, for example, 64 ℃,65 ℃, 66 ℃ or the like.
Preferably, the temperature of the second homogeneous stirring is 20-40 ℃, for example, 25 ℃, 30 ℃ or 35 ℃.
Preferably, the second homogenizing stirring further comprises a vacuum defoaming step.
Other specific point values in the above numerical ranges are selectable, and will not be described in detail here.
The preparation method used in the invention is a one-step emulsification method, the hydration degree of hydrophilic groups of the main emulsifier is reduced along with the temperature rise by using the nonionic surfactant type main emulsifier, the hydrophilicity is reduced, and the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB value) is also reduced. The W/O emulsion is easily formed at high temperature, and the hydrophilicity and HLB value of the emulsion are increased as the temperature is reduced, so that the emulsion starts to change phase to form the W/O/W emulsion. The auxiliary emulsifier with stronger affinity is added in proper amount, so that the material body can be helped to change phase from a W/O state to a W/O/W state in time after the material body is cooled. The one-step emulsification method is time-saving and labor-saving, and is easy to be converted into large-scale production for application. The material in W/O/W state has raised friction and viscosity, and may be frosted with less thickener. The finally formed W/O/W material body has the humectant existing in the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase simultaneously, the humectant dissolved in the innermost water phase has a slow release effect in the use process, the moisturizing capability of the material body can be greatly improved, and the moisturizing effect of the O/W system is realized.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the preparation method for preparing the moisturizing repair cream is a one-step emulsification method, time and labor are saved, the formed W/O/W material body is formed, the moisturizing agent exists in the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase at the same time, the moisturizing agent dissolved in the innermost water phase has a slow release effect in the use process, the moisturizing capability of the material body can be greatly improved, and the moisturizing cream has the refreshing feel of an O/W system and the moisturizing effect of W/O.
Under the condition of ensuring sufficient skin moisture content, the ceramide 3 liposome, the phytosterol ester, the madecassoside and the panthenol in the multiple emulsifying moisturizing repair cream provided by the invention have the synergistic effect, so that the skin care repair effect of the moisturizing repair cream is effectively improved, and the skin barrier can be effectively repaired, and the skin problems such as redness, sensitivity and the like can be relieved on the basis of moisturizing.
Detailed Description
The technical scheme of the invention is further described by the following specific embodiments. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the examples are merely to aid in understanding the invention and are not to be construed as a specific limitation thereof.
The terms "comprising," "including," "having," "containing," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, step, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, step, method, article, or apparatus.
"optional" or "any" means that the subsequently described event or event may or may not occur, and that the description includes both cases where the event occurs and cases where the event does not.
The indefinite articles "a" and "an" preceding an element or component of the invention are not limited to the requirement (i.e. the number of occurrences) of the element or component. Thus, the use of "a" or "an" should be interpreted as including one or at least one, and the singular reference of an element or component includes the plural reference unless the amount clearly dictates otherwise.
The description of the terms "one embodiment," "some embodiments," "exemplarily," "specific examples," or "some examples," etc., herein described means that a specific feature, structure, material, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment or example is included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this document, the schematic representations of the above terms are not necessarily for the same embodiment or example.
The reagents or instrument sources in the following examples are as follows:
the mass ratio of the sucrose monostearate to the cetyl palmitate is 88:12, and the sucrose monostearate and the cetyl palmitate are purchased from Basoff company of Germany under the trade name Emulgade Sucro Plus;
the mass ratio of glycerol stearate to PEG-100 stearate was 60:40, commercially available from Sibirk, france under the name SIMULSOL 165.
Camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil, available from Guangzhou HeTuo corporation under the trade name camellia seed oil HT-1128;
an ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel OIL available from the company basman, netherlands under the trade name argani OIL;
tocopheryl acetate, available from Dissman, netherlands under the trade name DL-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate;
squalane, available from Kishimoto, japan under the trade name Squalan;
tri (ethyl hexanoate) ester, commercially available from Nisshini Oliyou, japan under the trade name T.I.O;
isononyl isononanoate, available from the japanese patent on the market under the name Hicos in;
butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, commercially available from zernia chemical under the trade name Shea button;
a phytosterol ester comprising phytosterol oleate and β -sitosterol available from the company Vitae Natural, spain under the trade designation Vitasterol S-80 controlled-PS;
carbomers available from Lubo in the United states under the trade name Carbopol 980Polymer;
sodium hyaluronate, commercially available from Buddha Site Biotechnology, inc., under the trade nameSodium hyaluronate;
xanthan gum available from Cosphatec, germany under the trade nameX 34；
Trehalose, commercially available from hayashibiara corporation of japan under the trade name Trehalose 100;
butanediol, commercially available from the penta chemical company of korea under the trade name 1, 3-butanediol;
glycerol, available from malaysia baby company under the trade name MOON K GLYCERIN;
aminomethylpropanol available from Angus, germany under the trade name AMP-ULTRA TM PC 2000；
MADECASSOSIDE, commercially available from the company helveticus Hua Du under the trade name MADECASSOSIDE 95%;
panthenol, commercially available from Disoman, netherlands under the trade name D-Panthenol;
p-hydroxyacetophenone, available from De Xin, germany under the trade name SymSave H;
1, 2-hexanediol, commercially available from German Dexin company under the trade name6O；
Ceramide 3 liposomes, comprising ceramide NP, cholesterol, hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, water, and octyldodecanol, are available from shanghai juline biosystems under the trade name ceramide 3 liposomes.
Sucrose Polystearate, available from Guangzhou Heji Biotechnology under the trade name HJ SC-1803;
cetyl palmitate, commercially available from He Ju, UK under the trade name Crodamol TM CP；
Glycerol stearate, commercially available from basf, germany under the trade name Cutina GMS V;
PEG-100 stearate, commercially available from the Wohenchen Canli company under the trade name MYRJ 59.
Example 1
The components and the dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in table 1, the dosage units of the components in the table are parts, and the total amount of the raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) Mixing the thickener, the humectant and the deionized water in a water phase pot, heating and stirring at 80 ℃ to completely dissolve to obtain a water phase component;
mixing the emulsifier and the emollient in an oil phase pot, heating and stirring at 75 ℃ until the emulsifier and the emollient are dissolved uniformly to obtain an oil phase component;
(2) Mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component in an emulsifying pot, and carrying out first homogenizing stirring for 0.25h at 65 ℃ to obtain a water-in-oil material;
(3) Mixing the water-in-oil material body and the pH neutralizer in an emulsifying pot, stirring uniformly, continuously cooling to 35 ℃, reducing the thickness of the material body in the emulsifying pot, starting phase inversion, enabling the appearance to be fine and smooth, adding the skin barrier repairing agent and the bacteriostatic agent to obtain a mixture, homogenizing and stirring the mixture for the second time at room temperature, stirring for 0.2h, and defoaming in vacuum to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.
Examples 2 to 4
The components and the dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in table 1, the dosage units of the components in the table are parts, and the total amount of the raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
TABLE 1
Comparative examples 1 to 4
The comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and the dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in table 2, the dosage units of the components in the table are parts, and the total amount of the raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
TABLE 2
Comparative example 5
This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream differing from example 1 only in the replacement of sucrose polysorbate (and cetyl palmitate) with equal amounts of sucrose polysorbate;
the preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 6
This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream differing from example 1 only in the replacement of sucrose distearate (and cetyl palmitate) with equal amounts of cetyl palmitate;
the preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 7
This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream differing from example 1 only in the components and amounts thereof by the replacement of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate with equal amounts of glyceryl stearate;
the preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 8
This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream differing from example 1 only in the components and amounts of glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate replaced with an equivalent amount of PEG-100 stearate;
the preparation method comprises the following steps: the moisturizing repair cream was obtained in the same manner as in example 1.
Test example 1
The state of the first homogeneously stirred feed liquid, the state of the second homogeneously stirred feed liquid and the state of the final mass in the course of the moisturizing repair cream prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 8 were recorded, and the results are shown in table 3:
TABLE 3 Table 3
| Sample of | First homogenizing and stirring | Homogenizing and stirring for the second time | Final material body |
| Example 1 | The material body is sticky | The material body is smooth and fine | W/O/W type multiphase emulsion, cream-like |
| Example 2 | The material body is sticky | The material body is smooth and fine | W/O/W type multiphase emulsion, cream-like |
| Example 3 | The material body is sticky | The material body is smooth and fine | W/O/W type multiphaseEmulsifying body, frosty |
| Example 4 | The material body is sticky | The material body is smooth and fine | W/O/W type multiphase emulsion, cream-like |
| Comparative example 1 | The material body is very viscous and very coarse | The material body is very viscous and very coarse | W/O emulsion, bean curd residue |
| Comparative example 2 | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | O/W type emulsion, emulsion |
| Comparative example 3 | The material body is sticky and coarser | The material body is sticky and coarse | W/O emulsion, bean curd residue |
| Comparative example 4 | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | O/W type emulsion, cream-like |
| Comparative example 5 | The material body is sticky and coarser | The material body is sticky and coarse | W/O type emulsion, beanSlag-like shape |
| Comparative example 6 | The material body is very thin, and the surface layer is drifting oil | The material body is thinner, and the surface layer is drifted with oil | Not forming emulsion, layering liquid |
| Comparative example 7 | The material body is very viscous and very coarse | The material body is very viscous and very coarse | W/O emulsion, bean curd residue |
| Comparative example 8 | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | The material body is thin, smooth and fine | O/W type emulsion, cream-like |
As can be seen from the table data, in examples 1 to 4, the first homogeneous mass was W/O, and the second homogeneous phase was changed to W/O/W emulsion after the temperature was lowered; in comparative example 1, no auxiliary emulsifier is added, the first homogeneous material body is an incomplete W/O emulsion body, the material body is coarse, and the phase is difficult to smoothly reverse after the temperature is reduced due to the existence of no emulsifier with stronger hydrophilicity, and the W/O state is always coarse and has poor emulsifying effect; in comparative example 2, only the auxiliary emulsifier with strong hydrophilicity is adopted, the first homogeneous material body is an O/W emulsion body, the second homogeneous material body after the temperature is reduced has no phase transition, or the O/W emulsion body is not high enough in internal friction force of emulsion beads, so that the overall consistency of the material body is thin, and the state is similar to that of emulsion; in comparative example 3, the first homogeneous material body is an incomplete W/O emulsion body, the material body is coarser, and the phase cannot be smoothly inverted to form a fine clout material body after the temperature is reduced due to the lower proportion of the auxiliary emulsifier; in comparative example 4, the proportion of the auxiliary emulsifier with strong hydrophilicity is higher, an O/W emulsion is directly formed, no phase inversion process exists, the state of the material is thinner, and the material is in a cream shape. Therefore, when the W/O/W moisturizing repair cream is prepared by adopting the one-step method provided by the invention, the emulsifying effect is optimal when the ratio of the total amount of sucrose monostearate and cetyl palmitate to the total amount of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate is close to 6:1. In the absence of any of sucrose polysorbate, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, the overall HLB value of the emulsifying system shifted and eventually no W/O/W emulsion was formed.
Test example 2
Moisture retention performance test
Test instrument: corneometer CM 825 capacitance skin moisture meter;
test part: an inner measurement area of the forearms of the hands;
test sample: moisturizing repair cream prepared in examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-8;
the testing method comprises the following steps: according to the cosmetic moisturizing efficacy evaluation guide (QB/T4256-2011), 5 subjects meeting the test conditions are selected for each sample to participate in the test, and the test is performed under the same test condition, wherein the test environment temperature is 20-22 ℃ and the humidity is 40-60%. Prior to the test, the subjects were wiped clean with dry tissue by a staff member and cleaned with both hands and their forearm. And measuring area marks on the inner side of the forearm of the subject, wherein the area of the test area is 3cm multiplied by 3cm, and the same arm can mark a plurality of areas, and each area is separated by 2cm. The room with constant temperature and humidity needs to sit still for thirty minutes before formal test. Performing an initial value test of skin cuticle moisture; according to (2.0.+ -. 0.1) mg/cm 2 The skin moisture content of the test area is measured by using a skin moisture content measuring probe after the sample is smeared in the test area and massaged until the sample is completely absorbed for 60 minutes, namely the skin moisture content at 60 minutes. Then, the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum was measured at 180 minutes after use, the initial value of the moisture content was subtracted from the moisture content measured at the corresponding time of the subject to obtain the moisture content increase value, and the average value of the moisture content increase value was counted, and the measurement results are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
As can be seen from the data in Table 4, the skin moisture content of the stratum corneum was increased to some extent by applying the materials of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 8, the values of examples were significantly higher than those of comparative examples, the moisture retention of the materials in the form of a fine and complete W/O/W emulsion was better than that of the materials in the form of a fine and complete O/W emulsion, and the moisture retention of the materials in the form of an emulsion without W/O formation was worse. The W/O/W multiple emulsification system has the advantages that the humectant exists in the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase simultaneously, the humectant dissolved in the innermost water phase has a slow release effect in the use process, and the moisturizing capability of the material body can be greatly improved.
Test example 3
Repair effect test
Within a certain range, the higher the moisture content of the stratum corneum, the more perfect the skin moisturizing ability and the more normal the physiological function. The higher the skin water loss rate is, the worse the water retention capacity of the skin cuticle is, the lower the skin barrier function is, and the lower the skin water loss rate is, the better the skin screen function is, and the better the repairing effect of the corresponding product is. The smaller the heme index EI value, the lower the skin heme content, indicating that the red Pi Fufan condition is less pronounced.
Test items and instrumentation:
stratum corneum moisture content test: corneometer CM 825 capacitance skin moisture meter;
percutaneous moisture loss TEWL test: a Deflin vapoMeter percutaneous moisture loss measuring instrument;
heme content test: mexameter MX18 melanin heme tester;
test part: a side cheek region;
test sample: moisturizing repair cream prepared in examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-8;
test purpose: the ability of the prepared different moisturizing repair cream to repair was compared by measuring the average of the changes in the stratum corneum moisture content, the percutaneous moisture loss, and the heme content by using the moisturizing repair cream described above on the face for 28 consecutive days under normal conditions.
The testing method comprises the following steps: according to the test method of seven effects of anti-wrinkle, tightening, moisturizing, oil control, repairing, nourishing and relieving of cosmetics of T/CAB 0152-2022, 5 subjects meeting the test conditions are selected for each sample to participate in the test, and the test is performed under the same test conditions. The subject had to clean the face in the laboratory with a cleaning product prior to testing. Resting for 30 min at 20-22deg.C and 40-60% humidity to obtain initial stratum corneum moisture content (D) 0 ) Initial percutaneous moisture loss value (D) 0 ) Initial heme EI value (D 0 ) Is recorded. After explaining the using method of the sample to the subject, the subject brings the sample to be tested back to use, and after cleaning the face in the morning and evening, a proper amount of sample (about 1.5g of peanut grain size) is taken and evenly smeared on the facial skin, and the sample is gently massaged until the sample is absorbed. After 14 days of use of the product, the subject had to clean his face in the laboratory using the cleaning product. Resting for 30 min at 20-22deg.C under 40-60% humidity for 14 days to obtain horny layer moisture content (D) 14 ) 14 days percutaneous moisture loss (D) 14 ) Heme EI value at day 14 (D 14 ) Is recorded. After 28 days of use of the product, the subject had to clean his face in the laboratory using the cleaning product. Resting for 30 min at 20-22deg.C under 40-60% humidity for 28 days to obtain water content (D) 28 ) Percutaneous moisture loss (D) in 28 days 28 ) Heme EI value at 28 days (D 28 ) Is recorded. Technicians count the data for each subject D 0 Averaging the initial values to obtain D 0 Average value D 14 Subtracting D from the value of (2) 0 The values were averaged again for all subjects to obtain the moisture content D of the horny layer 14 -D 0 Average value of change, percutaneous moisture loss D 14 -D 0 The average value of the change and the average value of the change of the heme EI value are obtained by the same method 28 -D 0 The average value of the changes and the test results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5
According to the table data, the moisture content of the skin of the stratum corneum is increased to a certain extent, the percutaneous moisture loss rate of the skin is reduced to a certain extent and the heme content value of the skin is reduced to a certain extent after the materials of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-8 are smeared for 14 days and 28 days, so that the moisturizing repair cream provided by the invention has excellent moisturizing capability and excellent skin barrier repair effect, and the redness of the skin after use is improved. The ceramide 3 liposome, the phytosterol ester, the madecassoside, the panthenol, the shea butter, the squalane, the camellia seed oil and the like act synergistically, so that the samples have a certain repairing capacity. The moisturizing repair cream of examples 1-4 is obviously superior to the samples of the comparative examples in the increase of the moisture content of the skin of the stratum corneum, the decrease of the percutaneous moisture loss rate and the decrease of the heme content, and shows that the repair effect is more excellent.
The applicant states that the process of the invention is illustrated by the above examples, but the invention is not limited to, i.e. it does not mean that the invention has to be carried out in dependence on the above examples. It should be apparent to those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitution of raw materials for the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., falls within the scope of the present invention and the scope of disclosure.
Claims (10)
1. The multiple emulsified moisturizing repair cream is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
the emulsifier comprises a combination of sucrose monostearate, cetyl palmitate, glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate;
the total weight part of the sucrose multi-stearate and the cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight part of the glycerol stearate and the PEG-100 stearate is b, and the a is (5-7) 1.
2. The moisturizing repair cream of claim 1, wherein the skin barrier repair agent comprises any one or a combination of at least two of ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside, or panthenol;
preferably, the skin barrier repair agent is a combination of ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside and panthenol;
preferably, the skin barrier repair agent comprises, by weight, 0.5-5 parts of ceramide 3 liposome, 0.2-1 part of phytosterol ester, 0.2-2 parts of hydroxycentella asiatica glycoside and 1-5 parts of panthenol.
3. The moisturizing repair cream of claim 1 or 2, wherein the humectant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol or butanediol;
preferably, the humectant is a combination of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol and butylene glycol;
preferably, the humectant comprises 2-5 parts by weight of trehalose, 0.03-0.2 part by weight of hyaluronic acid, 1-4 parts by weight of glycerol and 3-6 parts by weight of butanediol.
4. A moisturizing repair cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of camellia seed oil, argan kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter fruit ester, tri (ethylhexanoate) or isononyl isononanoate;
preferably, the emollient is a combination of camellia seed oil, argan kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter fruit ester, tri (ethylhexanoate) and isononyl isononanoate;
preferably, the emollient comprises, by weight, 1-5 parts of camellia seed oil, 1-3 parts of argan kernel oil, 1-3 parts of squalane, 0.5-2 parts of tocopheryl acetate, 2-5 parts of shea butter fruit ester, 2-5 parts of tri (ethyl hexanoic acid) glyceride, and 1-3 parts of isononyl isononanoate.
5. A moisturizing repair cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the emulsifier comprises, in parts by weight, 2 to 4 parts of sucrose monostearate, 1 to 3 parts of cetyl palmitate, 0.1 to 0.5 part of glycerol stearate, 0.1 to 0.5 part of PEG-100 stearate.
6. The moisturizing repair cream of any one of claims 1-5, further comprising a thickener;
preferably, the thickener is 0.2 to 0.7 parts;
preferably, the thickener comprises carbomers and/or xanthan gum;
preferably, the thickener is a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum;
preferably, the thickener comprises 0.2-0.5 parts of carbomer and 0.03-0.2 parts of xanthan gum in parts by weight.
7. The moisturizing repair cream of any one of claims 1-6, further comprising a pH neutralizer;
preferably, the pH neutralizer is 0.05 to 0.25 parts;
preferably, the pH neutralizer is aminomethylpropanol.
8. The moisturizing repair cream of any one of claims 1-7, further comprising a bacteriostatic agent;
preferably, the bacteriostat is 1-2 parts;
preferably, the bacteriostat comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and/or 1, 2-hexanediol;
preferably, the bacteriostat is a combination of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol;
preferably, the bacteriostat comprises 0.2-0.8 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.3-0.8 part of 1, 2-hexanediol in parts by weight.
9. A method of preparing the moisturizing repair cream of any one of claims 1-8, comprising:
uniformly mixing the skin barrier repairing agent, the humectant, the emollient, the emulsifier, the thickener, the pH neutralizer, the bacteriostat and the water to obtain the moisturizing repairing cream;
preferably, the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the thickener, the humectant and the water, and heating and stirring to obtain a water phase component;
mixing the emulsifier and the emollient, and heating and stirring to obtain an oil phase component;
(2) Mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component, and carrying out first homogenizing stirring to obtain a water-in-oil material;
(3) And mixing the water-in-oil material with a pH neutralizer, a skin barrier repair agent and a bacteriostat to obtain a mixture, and carrying out secondary homogenizing stirring on the mixture to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.
10. The method of claim 9, wherein the temperature of the heating and stirring is 75-80 ℃;
preferably, the temperature of the heating and stirring is 70-75 ℃;
preferably, the temperature of the first homogeneous stirring is 63-68 ℃;
preferably, the temperature of the second homogenizing stirring is 20-40 ℃;
preferably, the second homogenizing stirring further comprises a vacuum defoaming step.
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