CN117045524A - Mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117045524A CN117045524A CN202311034902.2A CN202311034902A CN117045524A CN 117045524 A CN117045524 A CN 117045524A CN 202311034902 A CN202311034902 A CN 202311034902A CN 117045524 A CN117045524 A CN 117045524A
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- azelaic acid
- cosmetic composition
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- composition containing
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- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 106
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 231100000344 non-irritating Toxicity 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 8
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000006254 rheological additive Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000004519 grease Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 229920003217 poly(methylsilsesquioxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 15
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000001341 hydroxy propyl starch Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 235000013828 hydroxypropyl starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 14
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- NKJOXAZJBOMXID-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1'-Oxybisoctane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCC NKJOXAZJBOMXID-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000001181 organosilyl group Chemical group [SiH3]* 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 claims description 2
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001856 Ethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl cellulose Chemical compound CCOCC1OC(OC)C(OCC)C(OCC)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC)C(CO)O1 ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002153 Hydroxypropyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940086555 cyclomethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001249 ethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019325 ethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002674 hyaluronan Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001863 hydroxypropyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010977 hydroxypropyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- HNARGILVWSSFKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-methylheptatriacontan-19-amine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(NC)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC HNARGILVWSSFKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229950008882 polysorbate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 7
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 abstract description 7
- -1 oxygen free radical Chemical class 0.000 description 16
- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical group CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 8
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 206010000496 acne Diseases 0.000 description 7
- 208000002874 Acne Vulgaris Diseases 0.000 description 5
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical group OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229960000281 trometamol Drugs 0.000 description 5
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000001502 supplementing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 206010061218 Inflammation Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 230000003255 anti-acne Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004054 inflammatory process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000005808 skin problem Effects 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XDTMQSROBMDMFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Cyclohexane Chemical compound C1CCCCC1 XDTMQSROBMDMFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 206010015150 Erythema Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 206010040880 Skin irritation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 206010070835 Skin sensitisation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003110 anti-inflammatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromochloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)Br GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006184 cosolvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 231100000321 erythema Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000003780 hair follicle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003780 keratinization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003205 muscle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229930014626 natural product Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 238000006386 neutralization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003002 pH adjusting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003285 pharmacodynamic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011076 safety test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008313 sensitization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000475 skin irritation Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000036556 skin irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000370 skin sensitisation Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000036548 skin texture Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8129—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an alcohol, ether, aldehydo, ketonic, acetal or ketal radical; Compositions of hydrolysed polymers or esters of unsaturated alcohols with saturated carboxylic acids; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. polyvinylmethylether
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Pain & Pain Management (AREA)
- Rheumatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The application relates to the field of cosmetics/skin care products, in particular to a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid and a preparation method thereof. A mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid, the raw materials comprising, in mass percent, at least: 1 to 20 percent of azelaic acid, 15 to 20 percent of softening agent, 0.1 to 5 percent of rheological modifier, 5 to 15 percent of humectant, 0.1 to 5 percent of auxiliary agent, 10 to 30 percent of grease and the balance of water. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid provided by the application has excellent product safety, can still maintain good efficacy on the premise of low irritation, greatly reduces the irritation of the azelaic acid composition in the crowd, requires less azelaic acid when the same efficacy is achieved, obtains a reduction and synergy effect, and has wide market prospect and application value.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the field of cosmetics/skin care products, in particular to a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Azelaic acid is a natural compound, and is widely used in the field of functional cosmetics for improving skin problems such as acne, blackheads and inflammations due to its excellent effects of inhibiting active oxygen free radical properties, anti-inflammatory, reducing synthesis of filiform keratins, preventing excessive keratinization of hair follicles, and the like.
However, azelaic acid is easily dissolved in solvents such as hot water, hot benzene and alcohol, so that azelaic acid exists in a neutralization form in the existing cosmetic/skin care products, and the pH value is high, so that the bioavailability of azelaic acid in the cosmetic/skin care composition is limited.
The prior art (CN 115252449 a) provides an aqueous azelaic acid solution, in which 10% ethanol is used as a cosolvent, and the prepared aqueous azelaic acid solution is claimed to have good stability, and the solution is stable and free from precipitation, so that the aqueous azelaic acid solution can be effectively applied to various cosmetic compositions. However, ethanol is used as a raw material for the preparation, so that the skin is provided with negative effects such as irritation, azelaic acid is used in the range of 10-20, and the skin is sensitive to acne, so that the requirement of a low-irritation product is contrary.
Accordingly, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have grasped the pain spot in the field of azelaic acid compositions, and have provided a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid which is capable of maintaining excellent efficacy while having low irritation.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the above problems, the first aspect of the present application provides a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid, which comprises, in mass percent, at least the following raw materials: 1 to 20 percent of azelaic acid, 15 to 20 percent of softening agent, 0.1 to 5 percent of rheological modifier, 5 to 15 percent of humectant, 0.1 to 5 percent of auxiliary agent, 10 to 30 percent of grease and the balance of water.
As a preferable scheme, the softening agent is at least one of polyethylene glycol, polymethyl silsesquioxane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and polysorbate.
As a preferable scheme, the softening agent is polymethyl silsesquioxane and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and the mass ratio of the polymethyl silsesquioxane to the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is 14-18:1-2.
As a preferable scheme, the softening agent is polymethyl silsesquioxane and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and the mass ratio of the polymethyl silsesquioxane to the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is 14.5-18:1.3-1.5.
As a preferable scheme, the softening agent is polymethyl silsesquioxane and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and the mass ratio of the polymethyl silsesquioxane to the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is 18:1.5.
As a preferred embodiment, the rheology modifier is at least one of acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, dimethylsilylated silica, ethylcellulose, distearyldimethylamine hectorite, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol.
As a preferred embodiment, the rheology modifier is an acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and a dimethylsilylated silica.
As a preferable scheme, the mass ratio of the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer to the dimethylsilylated silica is 0.1-0.2: 0 to 0.8.
As a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of acrylic acid (esters) of C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer to dimethylsilylated silica is 0.1:0.8.
as a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of azelaic acid to rheology modifier is 10:0.1 to 1.
As a preferable scheme, the humectant is at least one of propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, hyaluronic acid and hydrolyzed collagen.
As a preferred embodiment, the humectant is glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol.
As a preferred embodiment, the oil and fat is at least one of cyclomethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, octylmethicone, dimethicone, dioctyl ether, hydrogenated polyisobutene.
As a preferred embodiment, the oils are octyl polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexyl siloxane, dioctyl ether.
As a preferable scheme, the mass ratio of the octyl polymethylsiloxane, the polydimethylsiloxane, the hydrogenated polyisobutene, the cyclohexyl siloxane and the dioctyl ether is 11-22: 0 to 2:1 to 1.5:0 to 3:0 to 1.5.
As a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of the octyl polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexasiloxane, dioctyl ether is 22:0:1:3:1.5.
as a preferable scheme, the auxiliary agent is at least one of chelating agent, preservative, emulsifying agent, auxiliary emulsifying agent and pH regulator.
As a preferred embodiment, the auxiliary agents are preservatives and pH adjusters.
As a preferred embodiment, the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone.
As a preferred embodiment, the pH adjuster is tromethamine.
In a second aspect, the present application provides a process for the preparation of the above-mentioned mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid, the steps comprising the steps of: (1) Uniformly mixing part of the softening agent and the grease at room temperature to obtain a phase A, mixing and dissolving the auxiliary agent and part of water to obtain a phase B, mixing part of the humectant and the rheology modifier at 60-80 ℃ and homogenizing to obtain a phase D for later use; (2) Homogenizing the phase B in the phase D for 2-5 min, cooling to 40-45 ℃ after complete homogenization, dispersing the residual soft lubricant and the residual humectant to obtain phase C, and homogenizing the phase D for 2-5 min; (3) Adding the phase D into the phase A, stirring and emulsifying, and adding azelaic acid into the mixture for homogenizing for 4-10 min after homogenizing.
The beneficial effects are that:
1. the mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid provided by the application has good effect of improving skin problems such as acne, blackheads and inflammation, can effectively inhibit direct irritation of azelaic acid to human skin, has mildness different from other cosmetic compositions containing azelaic acid, and has very wide application value in the cosmetic field.
2. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid provided by the application has excellent product safety, can still maintain good efficacy on the premise of low irritation, greatly reduces the irritation of the azelaic acid composition in the crowd, requires less azelaic acid when the same efficacy is achieved, obtains the effects of reduction and synergy, and has wide market prospect.
3. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid provided by the application can effectively improve the dispersion stability and the fluid state of azelaic acid in the whole system of the composition through the compounding of azelaic acid and a specific rheology modifier, so that the azelaic acid has better penetration effect in skin at a lower content, and the optimal pharmacodynamic performance is obtained.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the results of an anti-acne test of a commercially available 15% azelaic acid anti-acne cream.
Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the acne-removing test result of the composition prepared in example 4 of the present application.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the results of the test of the erythema removal effect of the composition prepared in example 4 of the present application.
Detailed Description
Example 1
Example 1 in a first aspect there is provided a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid, the raw materials comprising, in mass percent: azelaic acid 10%, softening agent 15.85% (polymethyl silsesquioxane 14.5%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1.35%), rheology modifier 0.1% (acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and dimethyl silyl silica with mass ratio of 1:0), humectant 12.65% (glycerin 12.2%,1, 2-hexanediol 0.45%), assistant 0.375% (pH regulator: tromethamine 0.075%, preservative: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.3%), grease 14.85% (octyl polymethylsiloxane, polydimethyl siloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexane siloxane, dioctyl ether with mass ratio of 11:1.8:1.35:0.7:0), water supplementing the rest.
The second aspect provides a preparation method of the composition, comprising the following steps in percentage by mass: (1) Uniformly mixing part of the emollient (polymethyl silsesquioxane) and grease at room temperature to obtain a phase A, mixing and dissolving an auxiliary agent and part of water (10%) to obtain a phase B, mixing part of the humectant (glycerin 5%) and a rheology modifier (acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer) to obtain a phase D at 65 ℃ for later use; (2) Homogenizing the B phase in the D phase for 3min, cooling to 45deg.C, dispersing the rest soft lubricant and rest humectant to obtain C phase, homogenizing the D phase for 3min; (3) Adding phase D into phase A, stirring for emulsifying, homogenizing, and adding azelaic acid for 5 min.
Example 2
The specific implementation of this example is the same as example 1, except that: the components comprise: azelaic acid 0.5% (polymethylsilsesquioxane 16%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1.5%), rheology modifier 0.1% (acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and dimethyl silyl silica 1:0), humectant 13.5% (glycerin 13%,1, 2-hexanediol 0.5%), adjuvant 0.38% (pH regulator: tromethamine 0.08%, preservative: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.3%), grease 16% (octylpolymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexasiloxane, dioctyl ether 13:1.5:0:0), water balance.
Example 3
The specific implementation of this example is the same as example 1, except that: azelaic acid 10%, softening agent 17.5% (polymethyl silsesquioxane 16%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1.5%), rheology modifier 0.1% (acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and dimethyl silyl silica 1:0), humectant 13.5% (glycerin 13%,1, 2-hexanediol 0.5%), assistant 0.38% (pH regulator: tromethamine 0.08%, preservative: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.3%), grease 16.5% (octyl polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexasiloxane, dioctyl ether 13:2:1.5:0:0), water supplementing the rest.
Example 4
The specific implementation of this example is the same as example 1, except that: azelaic acid 10%, softening agent 19.5% (polymethyl silsesquioxane 18%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1.5%), rheology modifier 0.9% (acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and dimethyl silyl silica 1:8), humectant 13.5% (glycerin 13%,1, 2-hexanediol 0.5%), assistant 0.38% (pH regulator: tromethamine 0.08%, preservative: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.3%), grease 27.5% (octyl polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclohexasiloxane, dioctyl ether 22:0:1:3:1.5), water supplementing the rest.
Evaluation of Performance
Product safety test
Selecting 30 subjects, and taking example 3 in a plaque tester, wherein a control hole is a blank control; the patch tester added with the test object is stuck to the forearm flexor side of the tested person, and is uniformly stuck to the skin by the light palm pressure for 24 hours; skin irritation and sensitization were observed as in table 1 after 30min, 24 hr, 48 hr, respectively, after removal of the subject plaque tester, and the observations were recorded.
TABLE 1
Table 2 closed patch test results
TABLE 3 Table 3
Subjects for clinical testing:
1. gender: 80% female &20% male
2. Age: 20-40 years old
3. Skin texture: acne muscle
Test/effective population: 60/60
Table 4 content of clinical test
Claims (10)
1. A mild non-irritating cosmetic composition comprising azelaic acid, characterized in that: the raw materials at least comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 20 percent of azelaic acid, 15 to 20 percent of softening agent, 0.1 to 5 percent of rheological modifier, 5 to 15 percent of humectant, 0.1 to 5 percent of auxiliary agent, 10 to 30 percent of grease and the balance of water.
2. A mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 1, characterized in that: the softening agent is at least one of polyethylene glycol, polymethyl silsesquioxane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and polysorbate.
3. A mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 2, characterized in that: the softening agent is polymethyl silsesquioxane and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and the mass ratio of the polymethyl silsesquioxane to the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is 14-18:1-2.
4. A mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 3, wherein: the rheology modifier is at least one of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, dimethyl silyl silica, ethyl cellulose, distearyl dimethylamine hectorite, hydroxypropyl cellulose and polyvinyl alcohol.
5. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 4, wherein: the rheology modifier is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and dimethyl silyl silica.
6. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 5, wherein: the mass ratio of the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer to the dimethylsilylated silica is 0.1-0.2: 0 to 0.8.
7. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 6, wherein: the humectant is at least one of propylene glycol, glycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, hyaluronic acid and hydrolyzed collagen.
8. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 7, wherein: the oil and fat is at least one of cyclomethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, octyl dimethicone, dioctyl ether and hydrogenated polyisobutene.
9. The mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 8, wherein: the auxiliary agent is at least one of chelating agent, preservative, emulsifier, auxiliary emulsifier and pH regulator.
10. A process for the preparation of a mild non-irritating cosmetic composition containing azelaic acid according to claim 9, characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps: (1) Uniformly mixing part of the softening agent and the grease at room temperature to obtain a phase A, mixing and dissolving the auxiliary agent and part of water to obtain a phase B, mixing part of the humectant and the rheology modifier at 60-80 ℃ and homogenizing to obtain a phase D for later use; (2) Homogenizing the phase B in the phase D for 2-5 min, cooling to 40-45 ℃ after complete homogenization, dispersing the residual soft lubricant and the residual humectant to obtain phase C, and homogenizing the phase D for 2-5 min; (3) Adding the phase D into the phase A, stirring and emulsifying, and adding azelaic acid into the mixture for homogenizing for 4-10 min after homogenizing.
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