CN116350543A

CN116350543A - Composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment

Info

Publication number: CN116350543A
Application number: CN202111622760.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李翔宇; 贺玙璠; 王纪
Original assignee: Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-12-28
Filing date: 2021-12-28
Publication date: 2023-06-30

Abstract

The invention provides a composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment, wherein the active ingredients of the composition are sialic acid and polyglutamic acid. Further preferably, the composition has a mass fraction of sialic acid of 0.01-2% and a mass fraction of polyglutamic acid of 0.05-0.5%. According to the invention, sialic acid and polyglutamic acid are combined, so that the effect of promoting the exfoliation of cutin can be achieved, and on the basis, the subsequent establishment of the balance of skin micro-ecology can be further facilitated, and the maintenance of skin health state can be promoted.

Description

Composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of skin care, in particular to a composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment.

Background

The human skin is mainly composed of epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous tissue, accessory organs (sebaceous glands, sweat glands, nails, toenails), lymphatic vessels, blood vessels, muscles, nerves and the like. The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum, which can resist external stimulus and prevent body fluid from extravasation, and is an important protective barrier for human body. When the skin barrier is damaged and metabolism is irregular, the external cutin naturally falls off abnormally, so that the waste cutin is accumulated, hardened and unevenly distributed, thereby causing rough and dark yellow skin, desquamation, wrinkles and the like, and affecting the effective absorption of the beauty and skin care product. Therefore, a product for promoting the exfoliation of cutin exists in skin care products, wherein some cutin conditioning components are added to help the exfoliation of waste cutin and promote the formation of new cutin.

The skin microecology is an ecological system composed of various microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, viruses, mites and arthropods, tissues, cells, various secretions, microenvironments and the like on the surface of the skin. The interaction of skin microorganisms, a host and the external environment forms the skin microecology balance, forms a first biological barrier on the surface of the skin, and has important physiological effects. Skin microorganisms are an important component of the balance system.

Skin after cutin stripping is broken due to the thinning of the cutin layer, skin microecology is broken, the skin is in a relatively fragile state, improper nursing is easy to cause skin diseases or bad states such as sensitivity, dermatitis, acne and the like, and the establishment of the skin microecology is fast enough to promote the recovery of the skin state and maintain the stability of the skin state.

Substances that promote exfoliating of keratin in the prior art are mainly salicylic acid, fruit acids, etc., but these acidic substances cannot continue to be beneficial for subsequent skin care and recovery, and mishandling also tends to cause various skin problems.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the problems existing in the prior art, the invention provides a composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment, wherein the active ingredients of the composition are sialic acid and polyglutamic acid, and the composition can help the re-establishment of skin microecology on the basis of promoting the exfoliating of cutin.

The invention provides a composition, which comprises sialic acid and polyglutamic acid as active ingredients.

Polyglutamic acid (gamma-PGA), also known as natto gum, polyglutamic acid, is a water-soluble biopolymer produced by microbial fermentation. gamma-PGA polyglutamic acid is a viscous substance, first found in "natto" -fermented beans. gamma-PGA polyglutamic acid is a special anionic natural polymer, and is a homopolyamide gamma-PGA formed by amide bond between alpha-amino and gamma-carboxyl, and the molecular weight of the homopolyamide gamma-PGA is varied from 5 ten thousand to 2 million daltons. gamma-PGA, which is a main component constituting a viscous colloid of natto, has an effect of promoting mineral absorption, has been listed in japan as a health-care ingredient table for promoting mineral absorption. The gamma-PGA has a special molecular structure, so that the gamma-PGA has extremely strong moisturizing capability, and the gamma-PGA can be added into cosmetics or maintenance products to effectively increase the moisturizing capability of skin and promote skin health. In the present invention, polyglutamic acid also includes polyglutamates such as sodium polyglutamate.

Sialic acid, also known as nidus Collocaliae acid, N-acetylneuraminic acid, nidus Collocaliae, is a carbohydrate widely existing in nature, and is also a basic component of many glycoproteins, glycopeptides and glycolipids, and has wide biological functions. Recent years have seen a growing demonstration of the cosmetic efficacy of cubilose acid.

The present research only stays at the effect of sialic acid and polyglutamic acid on moisturizing skin, but the invention discovers that the combination of sialic acid and polyglutamic acid can play a role in promoting the exfoliation of cutin, and on the basis, the subsequent balance of skin microecology can be helped to be reestablished.

In addition, it should be noted that: the term "exfoliation, scaling and/or renewal" as used herein refers to the removal of the outer layers of the stratum corneum, including the stratum corneum. "smooth" and "softening" refer to modifying the surface of keratinous tissue to improve the feel.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition has a mass fraction of sialic acid of 0.01-2% and a mass fraction of polyglutamic acid of 0.05-0.5%. .

Further preferably, the mass fraction of sialic acid is 0.1-2%.

Further, the composition of the invention also comprises a pH regulator and water, so that the pH of the aqueous solution of the composition is not lower than 3.5.

That is, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is composed of sialic acid, polyglutamic acid, a pH adjustor and water, wherein the mass fraction of sialic acid is 0.1-2%, the mass fraction of polyglutamic acid is 0.05-0.5%, and the pH of the composition is not less than 3.5.

The kind of the pH adjustor is not particularly limited, and alkali substances commonly used in cosmetics such as triethanolamine and the like are applicable. The pH of the composition is defined according to the invention mainly for the purpose of ensuring the safety of the composition in use and the normal use experience.

In the composition of the invention, the molecular weight of the polyglutamic acid is about 70-100 Da.

In another aspect, the invention also provides the use of the above composition for exfoliating and maintaining the skin microenvironment.

Further, 0.6 to 0.7g of the composition is applied to the target skin area in the same direction each time, and the composition is used once in 2 to 7 days.

The invention also provides a skin care product containing the composition.

Specifically, the skin care product can be a face cream, a hand cream, an essence or a toner.

The invention provides a composition and application thereof in removing cutin and maintaining skin microenvironment, which not only can play a role in promoting cutin to fall off by combining sialic acid and polyglutamic acid, but also can help to reestablish balance of skin microecology on the basis, and promote maintenance of skin health state.

Detailed Description

For the purpose of making the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention more clear, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.

The raw materials and auxiliary materials used in the following examples were commercially available unless otherwise specified.

EXAMPLE 1 Effect of sialic acid and polyglutamic acid compatibility on microecology

The common beneficial bacteria on the skin are selected: lactic acid bacteria; harmful bacteria: staphylococcus aureus and pseudomonas aeruginosa are the subjects of investigation.

Polyglutamic acid and sialic acid were prepared as aqueous solutions in Table 1 below, and the pH of the aqueous solutions was adjusted to 4.+ -. 0.2 with sodium carbonate or dilute hydrochloric acid.

TABLE 1

(1) Lactobacillus test:

culturing lactobacillus seed solution until OD value reaches 0.4-0.6, uniformly smearing 1mL on hydrogenated lecithin and Tween 80-nutrient agar medium plates, standing for 30min, placing 4 oxford cups on each plate, and dripping 100 microlitres of sample to be tested into each oxford cup. The plate is placed in a constant temperature incubator at 36+/-1 ℃ for anaerobic culture for 72 hours, the diameter of the inhibition zone is measured, and the average value is calculated. In the experiment, clear water is used as a blank control group, and 0.1wt% of a preservative agent commonly used for cosmetics is used as a positive control group. The specific data are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2

The results show that the reason for the occurrence of the zone of inhibition in experimental groups 1-8 may be the influence of the pH of the test object itself.

Lactobacillus (1.3x10) ⁶ CFU/mL) was inoculated into nutrient broth (100 mL), SA mother liquor and polyglutamic acid were added in different volumes to achieve the above experimental group concentrations, the inoculum size was 1mL, pH was adjusted to 4.+ -. 0.2, and then Lactobacillus was subjected to anaerobic culture at 36.+ -. 1 ℃ for 24 hours. The total bacterial count in the culture medium before and after the culture was measured by a direct counting method. The measurement results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 Table 3

(2) Staphylococcus aureus, pseudomonas aeruginosa test:

and respectively culturing staphylococcus aureus and pseudomonas aeruginosa seed liquid until the OD value reaches 0.4-0.6, respectively taking 1mL of the seed liquid of the two bacteria, uniformly smearing the seed liquid on a blood agar culture medium flat plate, standing for 30 minutes, then placing 4 oxford cups on each flat plate, and dripping 100 microlitres of samples to be tested into each oxford cup. The plates were placed in a 36.+ -. 1 ℃ incubator for 72h, the diameter of the zone of inhibition was measured and the average value calculated. In the experiment, clear water is used as a blank control group, and 0.1wt% of a preservative agent commonly used for cosmetics is used as a positive control group. The specific data are shown in Table 4.

TABLE 4 Table 4

The composition has a certain inhibition effect on two bacteria, has more obvious effect on pseudomonas aeruginosa, and has a larger inhibition zone when the sialic acid concentration is higher; when the sialic acid concentration is as low as 0.01%, the effect is not obvious. The inhibition zone is obviously larger than that of the single use after the two are mixed, which proves that the inhibition effect is stronger when the polyglutamic acid and the sialic acid are mixed.

From lactobacillus experiments, when the sialic acid concentration is above 0.1%, the lactobacillus has obvious effect on beneficial bacteria and can inhibit harmful bacteria. Too low has limited effect on promoting beneficial bacteria, while too high does not show more significant differences in beneficial bacteria growth.

When the sialic acid concentration is 0.1-2%, the combination of polyglutamic acid and sialic acid has small influence on beneficial bacteria on skin, has a certain inhibition effect on harmful bacteria, is beneficial to the beneficial bacteria of skin to maintain dominant bacteria position after being applied to the surface of skin, and has positive effect on balancing skin micro-ecology.

Example 2 skin irritation test

20 subjects between 20 and 40 years old, not limited to skin, but not limited to men and women, excluding women in lactation or gestation and persons with high physical sensitivity, were randomized into 4 groups of 5 persons each, each using aqueous samples (pH 3.6) provided by experimental groups 2, 3, 4, respectively, while the control was salicylic acid concentrate (pH 3.6) commercially available at a level of 2% of the usual exfoliating product.

The test method comprises the following steps: the product was subjected to the human skin patch test by referring to the cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition) and an open type coating test method was adopted. The tested part is the forearm flexion area of 3X 3cm ² The test object was applied to the test site about 25 μl/time, once a day, for three consecutive days, and the results of the skin feel test were recorded after each application.

Skin feel test

They were tested for burning, itching, tingling sensation inside the wrist after 0min (just after application), 5min, 10min, 0=no sensation, 1=indeterminate, almost no sensation, 2=slightly stimulated sensation, 3=moderately stimulated sensation, 4=strongly stimulated sensation, respectively. The sum of the scores of each individual group and/or the number of individuals in each group is the final result, as detailed in Table 5 below.

TABLE 5 skin feel detection results

	0min	5min	10min
				Experiment group 2	1.2	1	0.4
Experiment group 3	1.2	0.8	0.2
				Experiment group 4	1	0.4	0.2
Control	1.8	1.2	0.6

From the above table, the skin feel of experimental groups 2-4 was less irritating and better adaptable than the commercial products.

Example 3 human efficacy test to promote exfoliating

(1) The experimental method comprises the following steps: the efficacy of promoting the exfoliation of horny substance is evaluated by a method of combining a human body test with an instrument measurement.

Experimental group 2, experimental group 3, experimental group 4, blank control group: pure water.

A total of 20 subjects, randomly divided into 4 groups, each 5 persons excluding sensitive muscle groups, stained in a prescribed region inside the arm with a staining area of 3x 3cm ² After the sample is smeared, the change before and after dyeing is observed by a spectrocolorimeter (CM-2600 d) to obtain the effect evaluation conclusion of the product.

Principle of a spectrocolorimeter (CM-2600 d): the standard light source inside the instrument is used to illuminate the measured object, one-time integral measurement is carried out in the whole visible wavelength range, the tristimulus value and chromaticity coordinates of the transmitted or reflected object color are directly measured, and the color difference value between the measured samples can be given out through a special microcomputer system.

Subject characteristics: the age is between 20 and 40 years, the skin has no special requirements, and the women with hypersusceptibility physique and pregnancy are excluded;

test site: the inner measurement of the left and right front arms is carried out, and the position 11.75cm above the wrist is taken as the test center position;

the product coating amount is as follows: 0.6 to 0.7 g;

test environment: the temperature is 21+/-1 ℃ and the humidity is 50+/-5%;

test period: for 2 weeks.

(2) Experimental procedure

(1) Dyeing: any product (cosmetic or external medicine) cannot be used 2-3 days before the test of the tested part, and water cannot be contacted for 1-3 hours. The test area of the subject was cleaned with a dry tissue wipe prior to testing. With dihydroxyacetone (5 wt.%) in water at a concentration of (15.+ -.1) mg/cm ² After 5min of soaking the gaskets, 2 gaskets are stacked together and are placed in the patch holes as reference, and two holes of one patch are regarded as a test area. The inner side part of the arm is covered for 24 hours by a spot tester, the spot patch is torn off, an experiment period is started, gauze and adhesive tape are used for covering the arm except the smearing stage in the experiment period to avoid washing, and other exfoliating products cannot be wiped.

(2) And (3) reagent coating: the application of different areas of the same subject is carried out by the same application personnel, 0.6-0.7 g of reagent is dripped on the cosmetic cotton by a dropper with the specification of 2ml every two days, the cosmetic cotton coated with the reagent is pressed on the tested area, the test area is lightly rubbed for 5 times according to a certain fixed direction, and the blank control cosmetic cotton is dipped with water.

(3) And (3) testing: the test was performed at fixed time points prior to application on the same day. After the tester has a rest for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity environment before testing, the arms are exposed and placed in a testing state, and the tester keeps relaxed. After 5min of application of the reagent, the different test areas of each subject were tested with a spectrocolorimeter and Δe0 (blank control), Δea (experiment 4), Δeb (experiment 3) and Δec (experiment 2) were recorded. And the same instrument is used for testing by the same tester. Each zone was assayed in parallel at least 3 times. The skin phenomenon of the test is observed simultaneously during the test.

(3) Test results and conclusions

(1) Skin response record

The effect of the test samples on skin health was judged based on the skin damage response scores of table 6, and the results are summarized in table 7.

Table 6 skin damage response score

TABLE 7 skin Condition score

Sample of	Score of
		Experiment group 2	0
Experiment group 3	0
		Experiment group 4	0
Blank control	0

(2) The results of the keratinous test are shown in table 8.

TABLE 8 results of the cutin test

	Day 1	Day 3	Day 5	Day 7	Day 9	Day 11
							△E0	49.15	48.45	47.19	48.08	46.51	44.49
△EA	48.91	47.83	46.09	45.58	44.35	42.88
							△EB	48.01	46.22	45.13	44.28	43.04	42.06
△EC	49.20	47.25	46.19	45.18	43.66	42.59

(3) Conclusion of experiment:

the calculation method comprises the following steps: the falling rate= (initial value-last test value)/initial value, and the effective falling rate is the falling rate of the sample group minus the falling rate of the blank control group.

Blank control group shedding rate: 9.48%

Test group 4 shedding rate: 12.33%, effective shedding rate: 2.84%

Experimental group 3 shedding rate: 12.39%, effective shedding rate: 2.91%

Experimental group 2 shedding rate: 13.43%, effective shedding rate: 3.95%

On the eleventh day, the experimental groups were basically decolorized, and the effective exfoliation rate calculated from the test data showed that the concentrations of A, B, C groups had a certain exfoliating effect, and the exfoliating effect increased with increasing sialic acid concentration, and correlated with the concentration Cheng Zheng. Therefore, the test sample can effectively regulate the metabolism of cutin and regulate the skin state.

Finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention, and are not limiting; although the invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical scheme described in the foregoing embodiments can be modified or some technical features thereof can be replaced by equivalents; such modifications and substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition characterized in that the active ingredients are sialic acid and polyglutamic acid.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass fraction of sialic acid in the composition is 0.01-2% and the mass fraction of polyglutamic acid is 0.05-0.5%.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the mass fraction of sialic acid is 0.1-2%.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises a pH adjuster and water such that the pH of the aqueous composition solution is not less than 3.5.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyglutamic acid has a molecular weight of 70-100 Da.

6. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for exfoliating and maintaining the skin microenvironment.

7. The use according to claim 6, wherein 0.6 to 0.7g of the composition is applied to the target skin area in the same direction each time, and is used once in 2 to 7 days.

8. A skin care product comprising the composition of any one of claims 1-5.

9. The skin care product of claim 8, wherein the skin care product is a face cream, hand cream, essence, or toner.