CN115804727A - Bionic sebum compound, preparation method thereof and application of bionic sebum compound in anti-wrinkle and firming skin care products - Google Patents
Bionic sebum compound, preparation method thereof and application of bionic sebum compound in anti-wrinkle and firming skin care products Download PDFInfo
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a bionic sebum compound, which comprises: beta-sitosterol, cetyl alcohol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, jojoba esters, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, sucrose palmitate, glycolipids, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, and tocopherol acetate. The invention also discloses an application of the bionic sebum compound in firming anti-wrinkle gel. The glycolipid, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and tocopherol acetate are pre-dispersed in jojoba esters and hydrogenated coconut oil glyceride, the bioavailability of the components is improved through pre-emulsification of sucrose palmitate, a non-emulsified system can be possible to apply the combination, and the compatibility condition limitation of the effective components is reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a bionic sebum compound and application thereof in anti-wrinkle firming gel.
Background
The firming and anti-wrinkle skin care product has the effects of firming and anti-wrinkle by adding a specific anti-wrinkle active substance. Anti-wrinkle actives generally achieve the effect of smoothing skin by supplementing skin nutrients, promoting skin turnover and metabolism, enhancing epidermal barrier function, increasing epidermal thickness, inhibiting hyaluronidase activity, removing DPPH, or relaxing expression muscles through signal regulation; ceramide is an important tightening anti-wrinkle active substance and also an important component of skin; but general ceramide is only dissolved in oil at high temperature and can be separated out after being recovered to normal temperature, and the bioavailability is low and the cost is high due to poor dispersibility; therefore, manufacturers generally combine ceramide into pre-emulsion for application through a special process, and related patents are inexhaustible, but most of products for commercial application have the defects of low content of effective substances, poor stability and the like. The glycolipid from natural biological fermentation has the effect of being comparable to ceramide, and simultaneously has the advantages of low production cost and good compatibility, so that more and more anti-wrinkle skin care products applying the glycolipid emerge on the market;
the glycolipid is also called as ceramide, is converted into ceramide by high-yield candida through utilizing olive oil nutrient substances, and is a ceramide substitute with extremely high cost performance. The molecular structure of the glycolipid is formed by linking mannitol, erythritol and two fatty acids, and a hydrophilic end and an oleophilic end exist at the same time, so that the glycolipid has good permeability to a skin phospholipid bilayer due to amphipathy; because the production process uses biological fermentation and does not use chemical additives, the biological safety degree is high, and the biological safety agent belongs to a renewable substance.
Because the lipophilic end of the glycolipid is larger than the hydrophilic end, the glycolipid has the characteristic of oil solubility. In the traditional method for preparing the glycolipid, the glycolipid is directly added into an oil phase of cosmetics as an effective component, and the application of the glycolipid in aqueous products and non-emulsified products (such as hydrogel) is limited. Even in the emulsion type products, the absorption rate and the bioavailability of the products are different due to the reasons of component matching, emulsion structure and the like, so the effects of the glycolipid skin care products are different.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention provides a bionic sebum compound which is applied to anti-wrinkle and firming skin care products. The bionic sebum compound is compounded by the glycolipid and the components, so that the defect that the bionic sebum compound is incompatible in a non-emulsifying system is overcome, the bioavailability is improved, and the efficacy and the cost performance of the composition are further improved. The particle size of the system is reduced by means of pre-emulsification dispersion, so that the composition can be absorbed and act more easily.
One of the purposes of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
a biomimetic sebum complex is provided which comprises beta-sitosterol, cetyl alcohol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, jojoba esters, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, sucrose palmitate, glycolipids, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, and tocopheryl acetate.
Specifically, the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 11-15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 11-15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 2-6 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 6-14 parts of jojoba esters, 10-16 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 2-6 parts of sucrose palmitate, 2-4 parts of glycolipids, 18-36 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 10-18 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The glycolipid is converted into ceramide by high-yield candida by using olive oil nutrient substances, the molecular structure of the glycolipid is formed by linking mannitol, erythritol and two fatty acids, and the glycolipid has the effects of improving the AQP3 expression of stratum corneum, increasing the expression of keratinization envelope proteins such as filaggrin, paphiopediin and keratin, stabilizing cornification envelopes, keeping skin moisture, preserving moisture, moistening skin and repairing skin barriers.
Preferably, the feed comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 13-15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13-15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4-5 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 8-10 parts of jojoba esters, 12-14 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4-6 parts of sucrose palmitate, 2.2-3 parts of glycolipid, 24-27 parts of olive fruit oil and 10-14 parts of tocopherol acetate. The sucrose palmitate is mild and non-irritant, is highly compatible with human skin, has good infiltration promoting capability and has the function of moisturizing.
The jojoba esters and the hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides have high similarity to the components of human skin fat, are rich in unsaturated fatty acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, are excellent repairing-effect oil and are natural and stable.
BETA-sitosterol belongs to phytosterol, is an important component of skin sebum, and has antioxidant activity, and can inhibit skin hyperkeratinization and keep skin smooth and moist.
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is synthesized by hydroxyproline and palmitic acid, so that the dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline has both hydrophilicity and lipophilicity and better stability, and the hydroxyproline plays a key role in the synthesis (precursor) of collagen and the stabilization (three-dimensional conformation) of the collagen, thereby being a safe and ideal long-acting anti-wrinkle component.
Further, the preparation method of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following steps: stirring beta-sitosterol, cetyl alcohol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, jojoba esters, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides and sucrose palmitate at 80-85 deg.C at 50-70rpm for 10-30 min, adding glycolipid, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and tocopherol acetate at 3000-5000rpm, homogenizing for 5-10min, and cooling to 40 deg.C.
The invention also aims to provide the application of the bionic sebum compound in preparing anti-wrinkle firming skin care products.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a firming anti-wrinkle gel comprising the above biomimetic sebum complex.
The firming and anti-wrinkle gel comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-7 parts of bionic sebum compound, 5-8 parts of glycerol, 0.4-0.6 part of carbomer, 2-2.5 parts of D-panthenol, 0.45-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05-0.1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.25-0.35 part of tromethamine, 2-3 parts of methyl glucitol polyether and 78.95-83.8 parts of purified water.
Preferably, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
6 parts of bionic sebum compound, 5 parts of glycerol, 0.4 part of carbomer, 2 parts of D-panthenol, 0.45 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.3 part of tromethamine, 20 parts of methyl glucitol polyether and 83.8 parts of purified water.
Wherein CARBOMER is a thickener and INCI is CARBOMER.
The preparation method of the firming anti-wrinkle gel comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding purified water into a water phase pot, and stirring; adding glycerol and carbomer into a water phase pot, heating to 80.0-83.0 ℃, homogenizing at 3000-4000rpm for 3-5min, and keeping the temperature for 10-30 min;
(2) Adding the bionic sebum compound after heat preservation, cooling, adding panthenol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, tromethamine and methyl glucitol polyether-20 when the temperature is reduced to 35-40 ℃, and continuously stirring in the process to finish the preparation.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
the bionic sebum compound is prepared by dispersing glycolipids in a bionic sebum structure, and the absorption effect of skin on functional components is improved by utilizing the principle that the bionic sebum compound is formed by simulating sebum and is easier to absorb due to smaller particle size and is similar to the bionic sebum; the glycolipid emulsion is applied to a formula of a non-emulsified firming anti-wrinkle skin care product, the compatibility condition limitation of the functional components is widened, the application of glycolipids by the non-emulsified product becomes possible, the cost performance is higher than that of the glycolipids used alone, and a better effect can be exerted.
The firming anti-wrinkle gel disclosed by the invention has a remarkable firming anti-wrinkle function, and the performance of the firming anti-wrinkle gel is remarkably superior to that of a formula in which glycolipid is directly added.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described with reference to the following embodiments, and it should be noted that the examples are only used for explaining the present invention and are not used for limiting the scope of the present invention, and that the new embodiments can be formed by any combination of the embodiments or technical features described below without conflict.
In a specific embodiment, the glycolipids are purchased from fine chemicals and the carbomers are purchased from Lubrizol, lubrizol.
Example 1
The bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 13 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 10 parts of jojoba esters, 12 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipids, 27 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 14 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The preparation method of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following steps:
stirring beta-sitosterol, cetyl alcohol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, jojoba esters, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides and sucrose palmitate at the temperature of 70-85 ℃ at 50-70rpm for 10-30 min, adding glycolipid, olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and tocopherol acetate at 3000-5000rpm, homogenizing for 5-10min, and cooling to 40 ℃.
Example 2
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 2 differing from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 13 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13 parts of cetyl alcohol, 2 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 8 parts of jojoba esters, 10 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 4 parts of glycolipids, 36 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 10 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation process is as in example 1.
Example 3
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 3 differs from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 6 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 14 parts of jojoba esters, 14 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 6 parts of sucrose palmitate, 2 parts of glycolipids, 18 parts of olive (OLEAEUROPAEA) fruit oil and 10 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation method is as in example 1.
Example 4
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 4 differing from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 6 parts of jojoba esters, 16 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipids, 27 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 12 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation process is as in example 1.
Example 5
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 5 differing from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 13 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 14 parts of jojoba esters, 10 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipids, 27 parts of olive (OLEAEUROPAEA) fruit oil and 12 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation method is as in example 1.
Example 6
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 6 differs from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 10 parts of jojoba esters, 12 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipids, 27 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 10 parts of tocopherol acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation method is as in example 1.
Example 7
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 7 differs from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic sebum compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 10 parts of jojoba esters, 12 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 2.2 parts of glycolipid, 19.8 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 18 parts of tocopheryl acetate.
The same preparation method as in example 1 was repeated except for the technical features as in example 1.
Example 8
A biomimetic sebum complex, example 8 differing from example 1 in that: the formula of the bionic skin lipid membrane compound comprises the following components in parts by weight: 11 parts of beta-sitosterol, 11 parts of cetyl alcohol, 2 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 8 parts of jojoba esters, 10 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 6 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3.8 parts of glycolipids, 34.2 parts of olive (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 14 parts of tocopheryl acetate.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 1, and the preparation method is as in example 1.
Example 9
The firming and anti-wrinkle gel takes the bionic sebum compound obtained in the example 1 as a raw material, and comprises the following components in parts by weight:
6 parts of bionic sebum compound, 5 parts of glycerol, 0.4 part of carbomer, 2 parts of D-panthenol, 0.45 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.3 part of tromethamine, 20 parts of methyl glucitol polyether and 83.8 parts of purified water.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding purified water into a water phase pot, and stirring; adding glycerol and carbomer into a water phase pot, heating to 80.0-83.0 ℃, homogenizing at 3000-4000rpm for 3-5min, and keeping the temperature for 10-30 min;
(2) Adding the bionic sebum compound after heat preservation, cooling, adding D-panthenol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, tromethamine and methyl glucitol polyether-20 when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, and continuously stirring in the process to finish the preparation.
Examples 10 to 16
A firming anti-wrinkle gel according to examples 10 to 16, which is different from example 9 in that: examples 10 to 16 were each a bionic sebum complex obtained in examples 2 to 8, in this order.
Comparative example 1
A firming anti-wrinkle gel, comparative example 1 differs from example 9 in that: in the formula of the firming and anti-wrinkle gel, 6 parts of the bionic sebum compound are replaced by 1.8 parts of glycolipid and 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, and the water is correspondingly adjusted to 84 parts.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 9, and the preparation method is as in example 9.
Comparative example 2
A compact anti-wrinkle gel, comparative example 2 differing from example 9 in that: in the formula of the firming and anti-wrinkle gel, the bionic sebum compound is not added, and the water is correspondingly adjusted to 89.8 parts.
The remaining technical features are the same as in example 9, and the preparation method is as in example 9.
Performance testing
1. Skin seal patch experiment:
materials and methods:
30 subjects, 3 men and 27 women, aged 24 to 55 years and having an average age of 43.2 ± 8.43 years, were recruited, and the products provided in examples 9 to 16 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were tested by a closed patch test method using a suitable patch device, 0.020g to 0.025g (solid) of the test substance was placed in a patch tester, and the test substance was externally applied to the back of the subject with a hypoallergenic tape, and after 24 hours, the test substance was removed, and the skin reactions were observed after 0.5, 24 and 48 hours of removal, respectively, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the technical Specification for cosmetics safety (2015 edition), wherein the skin reaction grading standard in the skin closed patch test is shown in Table 1 and the test results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 1 skin closed Patch test skin response grading Standard
Results of the experiment
TABLE 2 cosmetic body skin Patch test results
The test results in Table 2 show that 30 subjects scored 0 on 30min,24h and 48h after removing the test article patch, and had no adverse reaction. The composition and the prepared firming anti-wrinkle gel have good safety, are reasonable in raw material matching, and cannot cause skin allergy.
2. DPPH free radical scavenging ability measurement
One of the ways of measuring the tightening and anti-wrinkle effects of the cosmetics is to measure the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity, so whether the cosmetics have the tightening and anti-wrinkle effects can be judged by measuring the free radical scavenging capacity of an implementation group and a control group.
The DPPH free radical scavenging capacity is measured by a colorimetric method. The determination principle is as follows: the DPPH free gene has a single electron, so that the DPPH free gene has extremely strong absorption (dark purple) at 525nm, when a free radical scavenger exists, the absorption is gradually disappeared due to the pairing with the single electron, the fading degree is in quantitative relation with the number of the received electrons, and therefore, the DPPH free gene can be quantitatively analyzed by a spectrophotometry method.
The method comprises the following steps: taking 2.0ml 120. Mu. Mol/LDPPH radical solution to 20. Mu.L of a sample to be tested, adding the same volume of DPPH radical solution as a control (A0) in place of the sample with the same amount of double distilled water, zeroing with 2.0ml50% ethanol in place of DPPH radical solution, after standing at 25 ℃ for 20min, measuring the absorbance (sample A) of the DPPH radical mixed solution at 520nm, repeating for 3 times, and expressing the scavenging capacity as the scavenging rate, the result being shown in Table 3, the scavenging rate being calculated according to the following formula:
DPPH free radical clearance rate rs% = (A0-A sample) × 100/A0
TABLE 3
| Test group | DPPH radical scavenging ratio (rs%) |
| Example 9 | 62.1 |
| Example 10 | 48.4 |
| Example 11 | 51.7 |
| Example 12 | 50.6 |
| Example 13 | 53.3 |
| Example 14 | 46.4 |
| Example 15 | 34.7 |
| Example 16 | 40.2 |
| Comparative example 1 | 26.9 |
| Comparative example 2 | 2.6 |
Analysis table 3 shows that the formula of example 1, i.e. 13 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 10 parts of jojoba esters, 12 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipids, 27 parts of olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) fruit oil and 14 parts of tocopherol acetate, is the optimal combination of the invention, and the application of glycolipids which are not pre-dispersed by compounding in the firming anti-wrinkle gel is limited in the ability to clear DPPH by comparative example 1. It is known from comparative example 2 that the firming anti-wrinkle gel without the addition of the biomimetic sebum complex has little ability to remove DPPH.
The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby, and any insubstantial changes and substitutions made by those skilled in the art based on the present invention are within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The bionic sebum compound is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 11-15 parts of beta-sitosterol, 11-15 parts of cetyl alcohol, 2-6 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 6-14 parts of jojoba esters, 10-16 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 2-6 parts of sucrose palmitate, 2-4 parts of glycolipids, 18-36 parts of olive oil and 10-18 parts of tocopheryl acetate.
2. The biomimetic sebum compound of claim 1, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 13 parts of beta-sitosterol, 13 parts of cetyl alcohol, 4 parts of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, 10 parts of jojoba esters, 12 parts of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, 4 parts of sucrose palmitate, 3 parts of glycolipid, 27 parts of olive oil and 14 parts of tocopheryl acetate.
3. A method of preparing a biomimetic sebum complex according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
stirring beta-sitosterol, cetyl alcohol, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, jojoba esters, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides and sucrose palmitate at 70-85 ℃, adding glycolipid, olive fruit oil and tocopheryl acetate, homogenizing, and cooling to 30-40 ℃ to obtain the bionic sebum compound.
4. The method for preparing bionic sebum complex according to claim 3, wherein the stirring speed is 50-70rpm, and the stirring time is 10-30 min;
the homogenizing speed is 3000-5000rpm, and the homogenizing time is 5-10 min.
5. Use of a biomimetic sebum complex in firming anti-wrinkle skin care products, wherein the biomimetic sebum complex of claim 1 or 2 is used for preparing firming anti-wrinkle gels.
6. A compact anti-wrinkle gel comprising the biomimetic sebum complex of claim 1 or 2.
7. The firming anti-wrinkle gel according to claim 6, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-7 parts of bionic sebum compound, 5-8 parts of glycerol, 0.4-0.6 part of carbomer, 2-2.5 parts of D-panthenol, 0.45-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05-0.1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.25-0.35 part of tromethamine, 2-3 parts of methyl glucitol polyether and 78.95-83.8 parts of purified water.
8. The firming anti-wrinkle gel according to claim 7, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 6 parts of bionic sebum compound, 5 parts of glycerol, 0.4 part of carbomer, 2 parts of D-panthenol, 0.45 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.3 part of tromethamine, 202 parts of methyl glucitol polyether and 83.8 parts of purified water.
9. The tightening anti-wrinkle gel according to any one of claims 6 or 7 to 8, characterized in that the method for preparing the tightening anti-wrinkle gel comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding glycerin and carbomer into purified water, heating to 80.0-83.0 ℃, homogenizing and preserving heat;
(2) Adding a bionic sebum compound into the heat-insulated material obtained in the step (1), cooling to 35-40 ℃, adding panthenol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and tromethamine, and continuously stirring in the process to finish the preparation of the firming and anti-wrinkle gel.
10. The firming anti-wrinkle gel according to claim 9, wherein in the step (1), the homogenizing speed is 3000-4000rpm, the homogenizing time is 3-5min, and the holding time is 10-30 min.
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| KR20190110887A (en) * | 2018-03-21 | 2019-10-01 | 주식회사 일진코스메틱 | Cosmetic composition and manufacturing method for the same |
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