CN115778835A - Polyglycerol ester moisturizer and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Polyglycerol ester moisturizer and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a polyglycerol ester moisturizer and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizer comprises the following raw materials: water, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, polyglycerol-10, U20, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, cetostearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, polydimethylsiloxane, jojoba seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), tromethamine, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexyl glycerol. The polyglycerol ester moisturizer obtained by compounding the components has a liquid crystal structure, can form a compact liquid crystal water-containing oil film on the surface of skin when in use, moisturizes the skin, forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, and has mild property.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to an adult skin external preparation, belonging to the technical field of daily chemical products.
Background
Research shows that as consumers seek cosmetics with natural, safe, mild and organic concepts, the consumers have higher requirements on the quality of products.
Polyglycerol esters are a natural surfactant and have very wide application. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a nonionic surfactant prepared by esterification reaction of polyglyceryl and fatty acid, and is called PGFE for short. The synthetic raw materials of the composite are both natural plant sources which are very safe to human bodies, belong to renewable resources, have high safety, do not contain EO, do not contain nitrosamine and dioxane, and have good degradability; the polyglycerol ester emulsifier has the characteristics of safety, greenness and environmental protection, the polyglycerol ester emulsifier has wide HLB application field, and the prepared emulsion system has lasting moist feeling, so the polyglycerol ester emulsifier is widely applied to cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
The polyglycerol polymerized by natural plant raw materials has the characteristics of multifunction, naturalness, economy and effectiveness; the polyglycerol has a natural moisturizing function, has stronger water absorption capacity compared with the traditional moisturizing agent, can form a stable emulsifying system, moisturizes the skin and forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, and has mild property.
The polyglycerol ester is used as a novel emulsifier, and has the advantages of nature, high safety, wide HLB value range, good emulsification stability and the like, so the polyglycerol ester is widely applied in the fields of food, daily chemicals, medicines and the like at present. The paste made of the polyglycerol ester emulsifier can also form a spherical multilayer liquid crystal structure, and related researchers believe that the emulsifier containing the liquid crystal structure can combine more water and is beneficial to slowly supplementing the water content of the horny layer because the intermolecular arrangement of the polyglycerol ester emulsifier becomes more ordered. In the smearing process, along with the loss of the water in the emulsion, the original ordered structure is changed into a disordered lamellar liquid crystal structure, a compact liquid crystal water-containing oil film is formed on the surface of the skin, and the skin moisture loss can be prevented for a long time compared with a common oil film, so that the effect of enhancing moisture preservation is achieved.
One of the purposes of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
the polyglycerol ester moisturizer comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 56-86 parts of water, 1-4 parts of trehalose, 2-5 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 2-5 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.1-0.4 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2-0.6 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.2-2 parts of caprylic/capric glyceride type polyglycerol-10 esters, 1-4 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-4 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 0.5-3 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2-6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2-5 parts of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), 0.05-0.25 part of tromethamine, 0.3-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05-0.15 part of ethyl hexyl glycerol.
Further, the feed comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-80 parts of water, 2-3 parts of trehalose, 2-4 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 3-4 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.2-0.25 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2-0.4 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.3-1 part of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 1.5-2.5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-2 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 1-2 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4 parts of jojoba seed oil, 3-4 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2-4 parts of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), 0.12-0.18 part of tromethamine, 0.3-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05-0.1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
Preferably, the polyglycerol ester moisturizer comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 75.93 parts of water, 3 parts of trehalose, 3 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 3 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.2 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5 part of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 2 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 2 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 1.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 parts of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), 0.12 part of tromethamine, 0.4 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
Further, the polyglycerol ester emollient cream also comprises 0.01-0.05 part of an aromatizer, preferably 0.02 part of an aromatizer.
The second purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
the preparation method of the polyglycerol ester moisturizer comprises the following steps:
1) Respectively dividing the raw materials into an A phase, a B phase, a C phase and a D phase, and respectively and uniformly mixing the four phases of the raw materials for later use; wherein, the phase A is: water, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, polyglycerol-10, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and p-hydroxyacetophenone; the phase B is as follows: caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, cetearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, polydimethylsiloxane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), wherein the phase C is as follows: tromethamine; the phase D is as follows: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol;
2) Heating the phase A and the phase B to 80 ℃ in a container respectively, putting the phase A into an emulsifying pot, adding the phase B, homogenizing for 3 minutes, and stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
3) And cooling, adding the phase C, continuously cooling to 45 ℃, adding the phase D, and uniformly stirring to obtain the polyglycerol ester moisturizer.
Furthermore, the raw materials also comprise an E phase which is an aromatizer; and 3) adding the phase D, uniformly stirring, adding the phase E, and uniformly stirring to obtain the polyglycerol ester moisturizer.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the polyglycerol ester moisturizer disclosed by the invention comprises the following main components: water, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, polyglycerol-10, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and p-hydroxyacetophenone; the phase B is as follows: caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, cetearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, polydimethylsiloxane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), wherein the phase C is as follows: tromethamine; the phase D is as follows: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol. The polyglycerol ester skin cream is obtained by compounding the components. Wherein, the polyglycerol-10 and the polyglycerol ester emulsifier (comprising caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, polyglycerol-10 oleate and polyglycerol-10 decaoleate) in the formula belong to natural plant sources. The polyglycerol polymerized by natural plant raw materials has the characteristics of multifunction, naturalness, economy and effectiveness; the polyglycerol has a natural moisturizing function, has stronger water absorption capacity compared with the traditional moisturizing agent, can form a stable emulsifying system, moisturizes the skin and forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, and has mild property. The paste body made of the polyglycerol ester emulsifier is easy to form a liquid crystal structure, and the polyglycerol ester emulsifier is more orderly arranged among molecules, so that more water can be combined, and the water content of the horny layer can be slowly supplemented. In the smearing process, along with the loss of the water in the emulsion, the original ordered structure is changed into a disordered lamellar liquid crystal structure, a compact liquid crystal water-containing oil film is formed on the surface of the skin, and the moisturizing effect is more obvious than that of common cream. The raw materials used in the polyglycerol ester moisturizer are safe in components, do not contain toxic and harmful substances, and can be directly used for all-skin.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram of the appearance of polyglycerol ester emollient creams of examples 1-4 of the present invention under polarized light microscope. Wherein the upper left panel is the sample of example 1, the upper right panel is the sample of example 2, the lower left panel is the sample of example 3, and the lower right panel is the sample of example 4.
FIG. 2 is a graphical representation of the appearance of the polyglycerol ester emollient cream of comparative example 1 of the present invention under polarized light microscope.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described below with reference to specific embodiments, and it should be noted that, without conflict, any combination between the embodiments or technical features described below may form a new embodiment.
The polyglycerol ester moisturizer comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 56-86 parts of water, 1-4 parts of trehalose, 2-5 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 2-5 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.1-0.4 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2-0.6 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.2-2 parts of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 1-4 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-4 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 0.5-3 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2-6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2-5 parts of triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), 0.05-0.25 part of tromethamine, 0.3-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05-0.15 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
The functions and functions of the components are as follows:
trehalose, which is extracted from seaweed, protects skin fibroblasts from dehydration, replaces water in the tissue, helps the skin to maintain a natural structure, is a very important humectant, and protects the skin from potential damage from the weather.
Butanediol is generally used as a humectant and a solvent, is a polyol with mild texture, can increase the smoothness of a product, and is widely used in cosmetics and is commonly used as a small-molecular moisturizing ingredient in skin care products.
Polyglycerol-10 oleate, HLB value 14. Is a new-generation non-ionic emulsifier which is derived from natural plants and can be biologically degraded, so that the emulsified particles of the formula system have smaller particle size and the system is more stable. Does not contain 1, 4-epoxyethane and other harmful substances, and can be used as an upgrading substitute product of EO-containing products.
Caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters with HLB value of 15, and natural and mild nonionic emulsifier can be used as upgrading substitute of Tween products.
Polyglycerol-10 decaoleate with HLB value of 3, forms a protective film with moisture keeping, moistening and water resisting properties on skin, and enhances the water-retaining capacity of skin, and is a W/O or O/W system emulsifier. The compound is compounded with polyglycerol-10 oleate and can be used for a liquid crystal O/W system, the paste is fine and smooth, the glossiness is good, and the addition amount of other grease can be reduced.
Triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate) ester, a weak-polarity emollient, low cloud point, good silicone oil compatibility and hydrolytic stability, reduced greasy feeling of an emulsion system, and good spreadability. The product has wide application in cosmetics, excellent low temperature performance, high branching degree, spreadability and air permeability.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride is highly fresh odorless oil, belongs to palm oil or coconut oil derivatives, has non-greasy texture due to its characteristic of compatibility with human skin, can improve extensibility by adding into cream or lotion, has effects of lubricating and softening skin, and can be used as emollient, solvent, and penetration enhancer in cosmetics.
The jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil has chemical molecular arrangement similar to that of human sebum, is easy to be absorbed by skin, contains important natural vitamins of skin, collagen and mineral substances with high nourishing degree, has good moistening and moisturizing effects, can increase skin moisture, has good moistening and moisturizing effects, can prevent wrinkles and aging, can massage and protect skin, avoids moisture loss, nourishes and nourishes the skin, enables the skin to be glossy and elastic, has excellent permeability and high temperature resistance, and has very remarkable beautifying effect on the skin.
The chemical state of the polydimethylsiloxane is the dimethyl silicone oil, according to the difference of relative molecular mass, the appearance of the polydimethylsiloxane is from colorless and transparent volatile liquid to extremely high-viscosity liquid or silica gel, and the polydimethylsiloxane is tasteless, high in transparency, heat-resistant, cold-resistant, small in viscosity change along with temperature, waterproof and small in surface tension, and the dimethyl silicone oil is nontoxic and tasteless, and has physiological inertia and good chemical stability.
The acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is mainly used as a thickening agent and an emulsion stabilizer in cosmetics, has the characteristic of long-flowing change, is suitable for cosmetic water and emulsion, has fresh and non-sticky skin feel, and can also play a role in preventing skin moisture loss.
The tromethamine is mainly used as a pH neutralizer in cosmetics, improves the swelling property of a system thickener, thereby increasing the stability of the system, has small irritation to skin and no acne treatment risk compared with other alkaline substances, and plays a role in buffering the pH value.
The polyglycerol-10 product is prepared by polymerizing glycerol from plant sources to form oligoglycerol, and the oligoglycerol or the polyglycerol is a very good long-acting humectant, can increase the skin moisturizing capability, and has far better efficacy than the glycerol commonly used by people.
Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, is white wax in appearance, provides a creamy texture, can be synthesized artificially, and can also be extracted from coconut fat. The component can help the product to easily penetrate into skin, can be used as emulsifier to make the product more spreadable, and FDA also allows adding cetearyl alcohol into food, so that it has high safety.
P-hydroxyacetophenone, a natural plant extract, is used as a preservative promoter and a chelating agent in cosmetics, has multiple effects of oxidation resistance, irritation resistance and the like, is effective to fungi, has strong killing capacity to aspergillus niger, has an inhibiting effect on pseudomonas aeruginosa, is acid-base resistant, high-low temperature resistant, promotes the effects of various preservatives, has good compatibility with various cosmetic components, and also has good compatibility with cosmetic packaging materials, so that the p-hydroxyacetophenone can be widely used in cosmetics.
Examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1
The formulations of the materials of examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 are shown in table 1:
table 1 formulations of the materials of examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1
The method of making the polyglycerol ester emollient cream of examples 1-4 comprising the steps of:
1) Respectively dividing the raw materials into an A phase, a B phase, a C phase, a D phase and an E phase, and respectively and uniformly mixing the four phases of the raw materials for later use; wherein, the phase A is: water, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, polyglycerol-10, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and p-hydroxyacetophenone; the phase B is as follows: caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, cetearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, polydimethylsiloxane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), wherein the phase C is as follows: tromethamine; the phase D is as follows: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin; phase E is an aromatizer;
2) Heating the phase A and the phase B to 80 ℃ in a container respectively, putting the phase A into an emulsifying pot, adding the phase B, homogenizing for 3 minutes, and stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
3) And cooling, adding the phase C, continuously cooling to 45 ℃, then adding the phase D, stirring uniformly, then adding the phase E, and stirring uniformly to obtain the polyglycerol ester moisturizer.
The general cream of comparative example 1 was prepared as follows:
1) Respectively dividing the raw materials into an A phase, a B phase, a C phase, a D phase and an E phase, and respectively and uniformly mixing the four phases of the raw materials for later use; wherein, the phase A is: water, p-hydroxyacetophenone, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the phase B is as follows: steareth-2, steareth-21, glyceryl stearate, jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil, cetearyl alcohol, dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl tri (ethylhexanoate); the phase C is as follows: tromethamine; the phase D is as follows: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin; phase E is an aromatizer;
2) Heating the phase A and the phase B to 80 ℃ in a container respectively, putting the phase A into an emulsifying pot, adding the phase B, homogenizing for 3 minutes, and stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
3) And cooling, adding the phase C, continuously cooling to 45 ℃, then adding the phase D, uniformly stirring, then adding the phase E, and uniformly stirring to obtain the common cream of the comparative example 1.
Performance testing
1. Topography characterization
The pastes prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 were observed by polarized light microscope observation, respectively, and the results are shown in FIGS. 1 to 2:
as is apparent from fig. 1-2, the number of liquid crystal structures formed is: example 4> example 3> example 2> example 1> comparative example 1.
2. Skin moisturization test
The skin cream products prepared in examples 1 to 4 were compared with the clinical test of comparative example 1 under the following conditions: 30 volunteers, all of which had healthy skin, had their face as the test part and were aged 16-45 years old, and were used 2 times a day for 15 consecutive days.
The forehead and cheek area were tested for skin moisturisation using a meter CM825, courage + Khazaha, germany.
The results of the experiment are shown in table 2:
TABLE 2
| Test items | Comparative example 1 | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 |
| Moisture retention | Increase by 60 percent | The improvement is 65 percent | Increase by 68 percent | The improvement is 71 percent | Increase by 75 percent |
Referring to table 2, the inventive moisture retention was greater than 65%, and the moisture retention ratio was comparative example 4> example 3> example 2> example 1> comparative example 1; combining the above two sets of tests, it can be seen that the moisture retention of the product is better when the amount of liquid crystal formed is greater.
The above-mentioned embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention, and any insubstantial and alternative implementations made by those skilled in the art based on the present invention are also included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. The polyglycerol ester moisturizer is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 56-86 parts of water, 1-4 parts of trehalose, 2-5 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 2-5 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.1-0.4 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2-0.6 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.2-2 parts of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 1-4 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-4 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 0.5-3 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2-6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2-5 parts of triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), 0.05-0.25 part of tromethamine, 0.3-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05-0.15 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
2. The polyglycerol ester emollient cream according to claim 1, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-80 parts of water, 2-3 parts of trehalose, 2-4 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 3-4 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.2-0.25 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2-0.4 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.3-1 part of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 1.5-2.5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-2 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 1-2 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-4 parts of jojoba seed oil, 3-4 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2-4 parts of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), 0.12-0.18 part of tromethamine, 0.3-0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05-0.1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
3. The polyglycerol ester emollient cream according to claim 1, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 75.93 parts of water, 3 parts of trehalose, 3 parts of 1.3 butanediol, 3 parts of polyglycerol-10, 0.2 part of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.2 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5 part of caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, 2 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 2 parts of polyglycerol-10 oleate, 1.5 parts of polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 parts of glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), 0.12 part of tromethamine, 0.4 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
4. The polyglycerol ester emollient cream of claim 1 further comprising from 0.01 to 0.05 parts of an aroma-imparting agent.
5. The polyglycerol ester emollient cream of claim 4 further comprising 0.02 parts of an aroma-imparting agent.
6. A method of preparing a polyglycerol ester emollient cream according to any of claims 1 to 5 comprising the steps of:
1) Respectively dividing the raw materials into an A phase, a B phase, a C phase and a D phase, and respectively and uniformly mixing the four phases of the raw materials for later use; wherein, the phase A is: water, trehalose, 1.3 butanediol, polyglycerol-10, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and p-hydroxyacetophenone; the phase B is as follows: caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters, cetearyl alcohol, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 decaoleate, polydimethylsiloxane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate), wherein the phase C is as follows: tromethamine; the phase D is as follows: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin;
2) Respectively heating the phase A and the phase B, mixing the phase A and the phase B, homogenizing, and stirring at a constant temperature;
3) Cooling the material obtained in the step 2), adding the phase C, cooling, adding the phase D, and uniformly stirring to obtain the polyglycerol ester moisturizer.
7. The method of making a polyglycerol ester emollient cream of claim 6 wherein: in the step 2), the heating temperature is 75-82 ℃, the homogenizing time is 2-4min, and the heat preservation time is 8-12min.
8. The method of making a polyglycerol ester emollient cream of claim 6 wherein: in the step 2), the temperature after cooling is 65-70 ℃, and the temperature after cooling is 42-48 ℃.
9. The method of claim 6, wherein the raw material further comprises phase E, the phase E being an aromatizing agent; and 3) adding the phase D, uniformly stirring, adding the phase E, and uniformly stirring to obtain the polyglycerol ester moisturizer.
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