CN115434058A - Degradable wool blended fabric and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Degradable wool blended fabric and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN115434058A CN115434058A CN202211133876.4A CN202211133876A CN115434058A CN 115434058 A CN115434058 A CN 115434058A CN 202211133876 A CN202211133876 A CN 202211133876A CN 115434058 A CN115434058 A CN 115434058A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
- D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- D06C17/00—Fulling
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- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/54—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur dioxide; with sulfurous acid or its salts
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- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/77—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
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- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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Abstract
The invention relates to a degradable wool blended fabric, which is prepared by blending polylactic acid fibers and wool fibers, wherein the wool fibers are wool fibers and/or cashmere fibers; the process comprises the following steps: respectively dyeing the raw materials by loose fibers, mixing, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing; the post-finishing process comprises a milling process and a lustring process; wherein the milling process comprises the following steps: adopting a ZONCO fulling machine, and adopting a fulling auxiliary agent formula: 1-5% owf for detergent, 1-2% owf for FXC milling agent; the lustring process comprises the following steps: adopting a self-prepared brightener, wherein the self-prepared brightener comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softening agent, 5-15% of sodium bisulfite and 5-15% of water. The fabric material disclosed by the invention has degradable performance, and the produced fabric is soft and smooth in hand feeling, can be produced in a large scale, and is high in product market acceptance and stable in quality through the adjustment of the ironing and milling processes.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a degradable wool blended fabric and a preparation process thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics.
Background
The existing cashmere fiber is the finest and softest inner layer down from goat body, commonly called 'diamond fiber' and 'soft gold', is a pure natural protein fiber, has excellent performances of lightness, softness, fineness, smoothness, warmth retention and the like, and is an extremely precious textile raw material.
Wool fibers are outstanding as natural protein fibers, and more particularly as textile fibers, and are naturally, renewable, degradable, recoverable, and emerging from a wide variety of fibers with superior properties. Wool is a protein fiber produced by sheep, and thus is the animal fiber that is produced in the largest quantities and quantities. The natural animal fiber is good in hygroscopicity, researches show that the hygroscopicity of the natural animal fiber is superior to that of conventional synthetic fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and silk under any temperature and humidity condition, and after moisture absorption, the surface of the fabric is not obviously wet by touching with hands. The wool can adjust the humidity of air in the clothes by absorbing and emitting water, and also has the capability of adapting to the humidity of ambient air and adjusting the content of water in the clothes.
Wool and cashmere are pure natural protein fibers, have good moisture conductivity and air permeability, good curling effect and fiber curling durability, and are warm-keeping, renewable and degradable. When wool and cashmere are used for manufacturing the blended fabric, the blended fabric is usually blended with chemical fibers, so that the blended fabric has good heat retention performance, but the chemical fibers have poor degradability, and the manufactured blended fabric has no degradability.
Polylactic acid (PLA) fiber is corn polylactic acid fiber developed by Anhui Fengyuan group limited, which is fermented by biomass starch or straw cellulose to generate lactic acid, and then the lactic acid is synthesized to generate polylactic acid, and after the polylactic acid is used, the polylactic acid is hydrolyzed into lactic acid by microorganisms, water, acid, alkali and the like in nature, the lactic acid is decomposed into carbon dioxide and water in the environment, and then the starch is generated through plant photosynthesis to continue to become a raw material for lactic acid fermentation. The greenhouse gas can be directly absorbed by plants buried in soil organic matters, so that the greenhouse gas is reduced to be discharged into the atmospheric environment, and the material is a well-known environment-friendly material. It is also absolutely safe to the human body, does not irritate the skin, is beneficial to the human health, and has a comfortable feeling. The polylactic acid fiber has good hydrophilicity, lower density, good elasticity, drapability, biodegradability, good hand feeling, good crimpability and crimping stability, natural bacteriostasis, quick drying and excellent moisture-removing capability.
Polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, wool and cashmere are adopted, and because each fiber has degradability, the fabric prepared by blending has the performance of natural protein fibers, and the functions of bacteriostasis, mite prevention and biological complete degradability maintenance are added.
However, the performance of the fibers is greatly different, for example, polylactic acid fibers are not high temperature resistant, the fibers are easy to plasticize, and the colorability is not good; the PLA fiber is not high-temperature resistant, the PLA fiber can be plasticized and hardened by a conventional ironing process, the temperature is reduced, the ironing effect of the blended wool fiber is poor, the wool feet are not smooth, the softness is poor, the hand feeling is poor, and the market acceptance is low. In addition, the blended spinning is difficult to shrink, the milling time is long, the shrinkage crease is serious, the finished product quality is poor, and the large-scale production is difficult to form.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the problems in the background problem and provide the degradable wool blended fabric, and the fabric prepared by the method is soft, smooth and elastic in hand feeling, can be produced in a large scale, and is high in product market acceptance and stable in quality through the adjustment of the ironing and felting processes.
The purpose of the invention is realized as follows: a degradable wool blended fabric is formed by blending polylactic acid (PLA) fibers and wool fibers, wherein the wool fibers are wool fibers and/or cashmere fibers.
The mass content of the polylactic acid fiber is 30-50% of the polylactic acid fiber and 50-70% of the wool fiber.
Respectively carrying out loose fiber dyeing on raw materials, mixing and blending, carding, spinning on equipment, and then weaving and after-finishing; the post-finishing process comprises fulling and lustring processes.
Wherein the milling process comprises the following steps: the grey cloth firstly adopts a decating process, then adopts a bag sewing process, and the fulling is carried out: adopting a ZONCO fulling machine, and adopting a fulling auxiliary agent formula: 1-5% owf of detergent and 1-2% owf of FXC fulling agent.
The technological parameters are as follows: single-ring milling, wherein the pressure of a press roll is 1-3 bar, the speed is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 10-16 cm, the pressure of a box milling plate is 1-3 bar, and the milling time is 30-150 min.
Preferably, the proportion of the milling aid is as follows: 209 detergent 4-5% owf, FXC fulling agent 1-2% owf; and a single-ring milling mode is adopted, the pressure of a compression roller is 2bar, the pressure of a box-milling plate is 2bar, the necking is 10cm, and the milling time is 100 min.
The lustring step comprises: the method adopts a self-prepared brightener (30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softener, 5-15% of sodium bisulfite and 5-15% of water), 30-50 g/l of the brightener is added into a liquid tank, a nylon brush can be subjected to stepless speed regulation, so that the auxiliary agent can be uniformly sprayed on the cloth surface, and the cloth surface is continuously scalded for 2 times at the temperature of 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min, so that the temperature of the cloth surface is not higher than 110 ℃.
The polylactic acid (PLA) fiber is preferably 1.33dtex polylactic acid staple fiber.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
according to the degradable wool blended fabric, the adopted raw material fibers are degradable fibers, and due to the fact that wool shrinkage is difficult and the wool shrinkage time is long after PLA and wool are blended, in order to prevent severe shrinkage marks, a decating process is firstly adopted on gray fabric to eliminate internal stress of the gray fabric; secondly, a bag sewing process is adopted, a detergent is added into a milling agent in the milling process to generate bubbles, milling with the bubbles is carried out on a ZONCO milling machine, so that the position of a wool fabric blank is changed frequently in the production process, and the generation of milling creases is prevented; meanwhile, the fulling process is adjusted, and the fulling time is shortened.
Because the PLA fiber is not high-temperature resistant, the PLA fiber is plasticized and hardened by a conventional lustring process, the temperature is reduced, and the blended wool fiber is poor in softness and smoothness, a low-temperature after-finishing technology and a chemical additive brightening technology are adopted, a self-prepared brightener is uniformly sprayed to the cloth surface, the amino silicon softener enables the wool feet of the fabric to be straight and level, the alcohol plays a role in penetration, and the sodium bisulfite opens the disulfide bonds of the wool fiber, so that the amino silicon softener plays a role in softness and smoothness to the maximum extent. The fabric has the advantages that the low-temperature ironing is adopted, the ironing times are reduced, the fabric is further enabled to be straight and parallel, the hand feeling is smooth and soft, the property that polylactic acid cannot resist high temperature is overcome, fiber plasticization is prevented, meanwhile, the lower ironing temperature is more beneficial to protecting wool and cashmere fibers, the energy consumption can be reduced, and the low-carbon economy is met.
In order to prevent high-temperature color change, the steam pressure of the decating is reduced from the original 2.2bar to 1.8bar so as to reduce the influence of damp heat on the fiber strength and the color light of the cloth surface.
Detailed Description
Example 1
Taking 81396/1 as an example, the raw materials are as follows: 50% of 15.5 mu m cashmere and 50% of 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fiber.
Dyeing: larix → dyeing → dehydration → drying
A spinning part: wool → spun yarn → bobbin
Weaving part: warping → drafting → weaving → blank inspection
And (3) after finishing: raw trimming → decating → washing → shrinking → China → washing → dewatering → drying → decating → steel wire napping → thorn fruit napping → coiling → drying → decating → ironing → shearing → ripe trimming → steaming → decating.
The cashmere is dyed by environment-friendly reactive dye for wool, a low-temperature dyeing process is adopted, and a low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent is selected to reduce the dyeing temperature, so that cashmere fibers are protected, the fiber damage is reduced, and the fiber strength is improved. And a mothproofing agent is added in the dyeing process, so that the mothproofing capability of the cashmere product is improved. Controlling the pH value to be about 4-5, cooling to 80 ℃ after coloring, adding an auxiliary agent for post-treatment, washing to remove loose color, ensuring that various color fastness indexes meet standard requirements, finally adding the auxiliary agent at normal temperature to neutralize the pH value to be about 6-7, and finally washing to be clean.
PLA fibers are not heat resistant and temperature affects not only dye uptake but also other properties of the fiber such as surface smoothness, hand and breaking strength. When the PLA fiber is dyed in the temperature range of 80-110 ℃, the dye uptake of the disperse dye to the PLA fiber is gradually improved along with the increase of the temperature, and the surface depth of a dyed product is also obviously increased. In the range of 80-110 ℃, the dye-uptake of PLA fiber is improved by about 5-10% for almost every 10 ℃ increase of temperature, and the dye-uptake almost reaches the highest after 110 ℃; and then increasing the temperature has little influence on the dye-uptake percentage, so the dyeing temperature of the PLA fiber is controlled to be about 110 ℃, the dyeing time is controlled to be 40-60 min, the pH value is controlled to be about 4-6, the temperature is reduced to 80 ℃ after the coloring is finished, the auxiliary agent is added for post-treatment and washing to remove loose color, the color fastness indexes are ensured to meet the standard requirements, and finally the auxiliary agent is added at normal temperature to neutralize the pH value to be about 6-7, and finally the PLA fiber is washed clean.
The carding equipment is selected for spinning, the multi-component raw materials are blended, and the production difficulty is large. Firstly, the control of the oil-water ratio and the mixing uniformity during blending are required to be noticed, so that the looseness of the mixed materials is ensured; and secondly, the temperature and the humidity of a workshop are well controlled, technological parameters such as a speed ratio, a spacing and the like are reasonably adjusted on a carding machine, the damage to fibers is reduced, the generation of wool particles is reduced, and the evenness of the yarn is well controlled.
Blending: and blending the oil water process requirements: 2-4% of wool oil and 1-2% of antistatic agent, and the moisture regain on the mixing machine is required to be controlled at 18-22%. If the wool blending is a mixed-color variety, firstly, a false-blending process is used for low-proportion cashmere fibers, then the mixed-color blend is mixed with high-proportion cashmere fibers, oil and water are uniformly sprayed, and the mixed-color blend is placed at room temperature for 24 hours to enable the fibers to fully absorb the oil and water. The polylactic acid fiber is not directly oiled with water after being opened. The wool fibers which fully absorb oil and water enter a wool making machine in a straight-taking mode for opening, then are uniformly mixed with the polylactic acid fibers, and enter a wool storage bin after being fully mixed for loading.
Carding: the rotation speed of the main cylinder is set to 80 r/min for front vehicle and 90 r/min for rear vehicle. The different speeds of rotation of the front and rear vehicles are adjusted in order to protect the fibers as much as possible. Because the fibers on the machine are in a lump, twisted rather than straight state, the fibers are easy to be pulled and damaged during carding. The raw materials are placed in a hair bucket on an H272 carding machine, and the depth of the hair bucket is not more than 2/3. The wool feeding amount is adjusted to be 240 g/time, the wool feeding period is 50S, the roving sliver discharging speed is 15 m/min, and the weight of roving slivers is 2.69 g +/-2.5%/30 m. By feeding teeth 31 T Adjusting the speed of the wool feeding curtain to enable the mixed materials on the wool feeding curtain to be uniformly paved; the middle gap bridge coarse meshwork is reasonably lapped, and the upper edge of the third layer of coarse meshwork is preferably lapped with the 2 knuckles of the lower edge of the first layer of coarse meshwork; after the chopped fibers pass through the chopping knife, the woolen nets enter the dividing groove, the speed of the pressure guide roller is properly adjusted, the problem of thickness and fineness of the rough yarns caused by accidental drafting of the woolen nets is solved, the stroke and the spacing of the washboard are properly adjusted, the output rough yarn lap is compact and not loose, the forming is good, and a good foundation is laid for the production of next spun yarns. The machine workload is moderate due to the proper roving count. When the mixed color variety is made, the fiber carding can be enhanced, the doffer and the working roll adopt a large speed ratio process as much as possible, and the speed ratio and the arc sweeping length of the wind wheel are properly adjusted. The speed ratio of the wind wheel is increased step by 1.26-1.32, the sweep arc is reduced step by 32-28 mm, the wind wheel plays a good role in the fibers tangled on the cylinder, and the fiber carding by the doffer is further enhanced. The space between each doffer and the working roll and the cylinder is adjusted step by step according to (0.17-0.14-0.14-0.12-0.10) mm. Through a series of process adjustment and improvement, the wool net discharged from the machine is clear and uniform, the fibers are straightened and leveled, the fibers are well protected, the damage is reduced, and the tensile strength and the elastic elongation of the wool yarns are improved.
Spinning: a BC586 spinning machine is provided with a total draft of 1.26, a twist of 480 twists/meter, a steel wire hook of 19 #, and a spinning speed of 3400 r/min for spinning 14/1 Nm single yarn, each of the large, medium and small doffings is drawn once, and the draft value is adjusted at any time according to the draft on the machine when the draft exceeds +/-2.5%. And adjusting the tension wheel to ensure that the roving sliver discharging speed is properly higher than the feeding speed, so as to prevent the fine defect yarns caused by accidental drafting.
Spooling: the speed is 800 m/min on a SAVIO bobbin winder, the bobbin length is 11000 m, the splicing air pressure is 4-6 bar, the yarn tension is 80-100 mbar, and various defects are removed on electric cleaning.
Weaving
The single yarn has more hairiness and weak knots, the broken ends are high due to low strength of the wool yarn, the weaving defects such as jumping and the like are easily generated due to the fact that the wool yarn is stuck and lapped, the production is carried out on a G6300 rapier loom in the actual production process, and the process principle of low tension, low speed and large opening is adopted, so that the smooth production is guaranteed. The weaving process taking 81396/1 as an example is as follows:
warping tension: 15-25 g, inverted shaft tension: 15-25 g.
Weaving single yarn tension: 15-25 g, vehicle speed: 300 r/min.
The height of the back beam is +2 to-1.5 cm, and the height of the warp stop frame is 0 to-3.5 cm.
The weaving shed is clear, the height of the heald frame is 70 mm on page 1, and each page is decreased progressively by 3-4 mm later.
Leveling time: 312-322 degrees.
After the loom technological parameters are optimized, the production efficiency of the loom reaches more than 85 percent.
The cashmere after-finishing process flow is as follows:
raw maintenance: the weaving defects, hair grains, color wool, grass scraps and the like on the wool fabric blank are repaired, and the same warp and weft yarns are used for supplementing longer warp lack, weft lack, long roving yarns, long bow yarns, small jumping flowers, cobweb and the like according to the original structure.
Washing the woolen cloth: wool fabric blanks use wool oil, sizing agent and antistatic agent in the spinning process, oil stain and dust are stained in the process, residual dye scraps and the like in raw material dyeing need to remove the various impurities in the cleaned wool fabric, and the fabric is clean. The auxiliary agent formula comprises: soda 0.5-1% owf,209 detergent 1-2% owf, FXC fulling agent 1-2% owf, washing temperature 40-50 deg.C, and washing time 40-60 min.
Milling: adopting a ZONCO milling machine, applying a milling process with steam bubbles, and adopting an auxiliary agent formula: 209 detergent 3% owf, FXC fulling agent 2% owf. The technological parameters are as follows: single-ring milling, press roll pressure of 2bar, box-milling plate pressure of 2bar, vehicle speed of 160 m/min, necking of 10cm, milling time of 100 min.
Steel wire napping: raising by steel wire needle roller, larger raising action of reverse needle roller, V Inverse direction ﹥V Cis-trans The tension of the front cloth guide roller is 0.75, the tension of the rear cloth guide roller is 0.95, the cylinder speed is 75 r/min, and the cloth speed is 10-12 m/min.
Picking up the bur: rolling liquor at 50-60 ℃ before loading, wherein the dosage of the softening agent is 30-50 g/l. After passing through a hot water tank, the raw materials enter a softer triple bur roller to be continuously brushed forward and backward, and the woollen surface generates a wavy fluffy appearance. The contact points 12-16 are adjusted step by step at a speed of 10 m/min.
Drying: and determining the width of the drying woolen cloth according to the specification requirement of the product and the shrinkage degree of the width of the woolen cloth blank in the finishing process, so that the fabric is constant in width. The temperature is 140 ℃, the vehicle speed is 8-12 m/min, the open width is 154-158 cm, and the overfeeding is 5-10%.
Ironing and shearing: the fluff on the surface of the fabric is uneven in length, which affects the beauty. According to the product style and quality requirements, the fluff is cut to be flush, so that the woolen surface is smooth, the appearance is improved, and pilling is reduced. The lustre temperature is 150 ℃, the speed is 11m/min, the shearing blade distance is 4.86, the vehicle speed is 16m/min, and the front side and the back side are continuous for 2 times.
When in hot stamping: adding 35g/l of brightener into a liquid tank, uniformly spraying the auxiliary agent to the cloth surface by using a brush, and continuously ironing for 2 times at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min to ensure that the temperature of the cloth surface is not higher than 110 ℃;
the ratio of the brightener is as follows: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softening agent, 10% of sodium bisulfite and 10% of water.
Intermediate inspection and well-repairing: and the problems possibly generated in the wet finishing process are detected, so that the process scheme is convenient to adjust in time, and the state of the machine is known in time. And (4) thoroughly trimming, namely picking up the grass scraps on the cloth surface to repair a small amount of front track defects and wool surface hair particles.
Steaming and brushing: the bristles can brush off the hair scraps cut on the surface of the fabric after shearing, and the brushing and the steam spraying are carried out simultaneously.
Decating: atmospheric single-drum decating, andsaturated steam penetrates through the steam generator, T =100-110 deg.C, effective action time 3-8 min, and steam pressure 1.4-1.55 kgf/cm 2 。
The prepared fabric has soft hand feeling, and is flexible and elastic.
Example 2
Respectively dyeing 21.0 mu m Australian wool and 1.33dtex polylactic acid staple fiber, mixing 60 percent of Australian wool and 40 percent of polylactic acid staple fiber, carding, spinning, weaving, post-finishing and weaving into fabric;
wherein: the dyeing temperature of PLA fiber should be controlled to be about 110 ℃, the dyeing time should be controlled to be 40-60 min, and the pH value should be controlled to be 4-6.
The post-finishing process comprises a milling process and a lustring process;
the decating process is adopted before decating, and the steam pressure adopted in the decating process is 1.8bar.
The milling process adopts a ZONCO milling machine, and the milling auxiliary agent formula is as follows: 209 detergent 2% owf, FXC fulling agent 2% owf; the process adopts single-ring fulling, the pressure of a compression roller is 2bar, the vehicle speed is 150 m/min, the necking is 13cm, the pressure of a box shrinkage plate is 2bar, and the fulling time is 90min; the fabric has no shrinkage crease, plump suede, fine, clean and flat, and elastic hand feeling.
The lustring process comprises the following steps: adopting a self-prepared brightener, adding 40g/l of the brightener into a liquid tank, uniformly spraying the auxiliary agent to the cloth surface by using a brush, and continuously ironing for 2 times at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min to ensure that the temperature of the cloth surface is not higher than 110 ℃;
the proportion of the self-prepared brightener is as follows: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softening agent, 10% of sodium bisulfite and 10% of water.
The prepared fabric has the advantages of wool fiber stretching, fiber leveling after ironing, good smoothness, soft and smooth hand feeling and good luster.
Example 3
Respectively dyeing 15.5 mu m cashmere, 17.5 mu m Australian wool and 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fiber, mixing 35% of cashmere, 35% of Australian wool and 30% of polylactic acid short fiber, blending, carding, spinning, weaving, and post-finishing to prepare fabric;
wherein: the dyeing temperature of the PLA fiber is controlled to be about 110 ℃, the dyeing time is controlled to be 40-60 min, and the pH value is controlled to be 4-6.
The post-finishing process comprises a milling process and a lustring process;
the milling process adopts a ZONCO milling machine, and the milling auxiliary agent formula is as follows: 209 detergent 4% owf, FXC fulling agent 1% owf; the process adopts single-ring fulling, the pressure of a compression roller is 2bar, the vehicle speed is 160 m/min, the necking is 10cm, the pressure of a box shrinkage plate is 2bar, and the fulling time is 100min; the fabric has no crease, plump suede, fine, clean and flat, and elastic hand feeling.
The lustring process comprises the following steps: adopting a self-prepared brightener, adding 40g/l of the brightener into a liquid tank, uniformly spraying the auxiliary agent to the cloth surface by using a brush, and continuously ironing for 2 times at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min to ensure that the temperature of the cloth surface is not higher than 110 ℃;
the proportion of the self-prepared brightener is as follows: 45% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softening agent, 10% of sodium bisulfite and 10% of water.
The decating process is adopted before decating, and the steam pressure adopted in the decating process is 1.8bar.
The prepared fabric has the advantages of wool fiber stretching, fiber leveling after ironing, good smoothness, soft and elastic hand feeling and better luster.
Comparative example 1
In the milling procedure, no detergent is added in the auxiliary agent, and the rest of the process is the same as that of the example 2.
In the fulling process, the fabric has serious shrinkage creases and cannot reach the fulling size within a specified time, and the fulling time needs to be prolonged. After the production is continued for a prolonged period of time, the prepared fabric has hard hand feeling and poor elasticity.
Comparative example 2
In the lustring step, only the amino silicone softener is used, and the other processes are the same as those in example 2.
Wool feet on the woolen surface are not parallel and level, and the lodging direction of wool is not consistent, so that the flatness and glossiness of the fabric are affected.
The above is only a specific application example of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited in any way. The technical solutions formed by using equivalent transformation or equivalent substitution are all within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. A degradable wool blended fabric is characterized in that: polylactic acid fiber and wool fiber are blended, and the wool fiber is wool fiber and/or cashmere fiber.
2. The degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the mass content of each fiber is 30-50% of polylactic acid fiber and 50-70% of wool fiber.
3. The degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the polylactic acid fiber is 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fiber.
4. A preparation process of a degradable wool blended fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the raw materials are blended by polylactic acid fiber and wool fiber, and the wool fiber is wool fiber and/or cashmere fiber; the process comprises the following steps: respectively dyeing the raw materials by loose fibers, mixing, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing; the post-finishing process comprises a milling process and a lustring process;
wherein the milling process comprises the following steps: adopting a ZONCO fulling machine, and adopting a fulling auxiliary agent formula: 1-5% owf of detergent and 1-2% owf of FXC fulling agent; the process adopts single-ring fulling, the pressure of a compression roller is 1-3 bar, the vehicle speed is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 10-16 cm, the pressure of a box shrinking plate is 1-3 bar, and the fulling time is 30-150 min;
the lustring step comprises: adopting a self-prepared brightener, adding 30-50 g/l of the brightener into a liquid tank, spraying the auxiliary agent to the cloth surface by using a brush, and continuously ironing for 2 times by using a quick ironing process at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and at the speed of 10-13 m/min, wherein the cloth surface temperature is not higher than 110 ℃;
the proportion of the self-prepared brightener is as follows: 30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softening agent, 5-15% of sodium bisulfite and 5-15% of water.
5. The preparation process of the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 4, characterized by comprising the following steps: the proportion of the self-prepared brightener is as follows: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softening agent, 10% of sodium bisulfite and 10% of water.
6. The preparation process of the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 4, characterized by comprising the following steps: the compression roller pressure of the milling process is 2bar, the compression box plate pressure is 2bar, the necking is 10cm, and the milling time is 100 min.
7. The preparation process of the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 4, characterized by comprising the following steps: the proportion of the milling aid is as follows: 209 detergent 3-5% owf, FXC fulling agent 1-2% owf.
8. The preparation process of the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 4, characterized by comprising the following steps: the decating process is firstly adopted before the decating, and then the bag sewing process is adopted.
9. The preparation process of the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 8, characterized by comprising the following steps: the decating process adopts steam pressure of 1.8bar.
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1062766A (en) * | 1990-12-25 | 1992-07-15 | 内蒙古轻工业厅皮革科学研究所 | The production method of a kind of mao of leather and purposes |
| CN105671739A (en) * | 2016-03-16 | 2016-06-15 | 江阴新嘉美服饰有限公司 | Soft fabric |
| CN106063595A (en) * | 2016-06-03 | 2016-11-02 | 江阴市悦达印染有限公司 | A kind of workman's clothes and web process thereof |
| CN108823889A (en) * | 2018-07-20 | 2018-11-16 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of afterfinish method of the knitting woollen single side fulling milling fabric without folding line |
| CN215551594U (en) * | 2021-07-19 | 2022-01-18 | 广东创时尚智能股份有限公司 | Cold-resistant warm-keeping cashmere material |
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2022
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Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1062766A (en) * | 1990-12-25 | 1992-07-15 | 内蒙古轻工业厅皮革科学研究所 | The production method of a kind of mao of leather and purposes |
| CN105671739A (en) * | 2016-03-16 | 2016-06-15 | 江阴新嘉美服饰有限公司 | Soft fabric |
| CN106063595A (en) * | 2016-06-03 | 2016-11-02 | 江阴市悦达印染有限公司 | A kind of workman's clothes and web process thereof |
| CN108823889A (en) * | 2018-07-20 | 2018-11-16 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of afterfinish method of the knitting woollen single side fulling milling fabric without folding line |
| CN215551594U (en) * | 2021-07-19 | 2022-01-18 | 广东创时尚智能股份有限公司 | Cold-resistant warm-keeping cashmere material |
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