CN115434058B - Degradable wool blended fabric and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Degradable wool blended fabric and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
- D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C17/00—Fulling
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/54—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur dioxide; with sulfurous acid or its salts
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- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/77—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/144—Alcohols; Metal alcoholates
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Abstract
The invention relates to a degradable wool blending fabric, which is prepared by blending polylactic acid fibers and wool fibers, wherein the wool fibers are wool fibers and/or cashmere fibers; the process comprises the following steps: the raw materials are respectively subjected to loose fiber dyeing, mixed, carded, spun and woven, and then subjected to post-finishing; the post-finishing process comprises a fulling process and a polishing process; wherein the step of shrinking woolen cloth comprises the following steps: adopting a ZOOC shrinkage wool machine, wherein the formula of the shrinkage wool additive is as follows: 1-5% of a detergent and 1-2% of an FXC tweezer; the scalding procedure comprises the following steps: the self-matching brightening agent is adopted, and the self-matching brightening agent comprises the following components in proportion: 30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softener, 5-15% of sodium bisulphite and 5-15% of water. The fabric material has degradability, and the produced fabric is soft and smooth in hand feeling, can be produced in large scale, and has high market acceptance and stable quality through adjustment of the ironing and shrinking process.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a degradable wool blended fabric and a preparation process thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics.
Background
The existing cashmere fiber is the thinnest and softest inner layer fluff commonly called as 'diamond fiber', 'soft gold', and pure natural protein fiber, has the excellent properties of light, soft, thin, slippery, warmth retention and the like, and is an extremely precious textile raw material.
Wool fiber is a natural protein fiber, and is outstanding among textile fibers, and is natural, renewable, degradable and recyclable, and has outstanding characteristics from a plurality of fibers. Wool is a protein fiber produced from sheep and is therefore the animal fiber with the greatest yield and quantity. The fabric is a natural animal fiber with good hygroscopicity, and researches show that the hygroscopicity of the fabric is superior to that of the conventional synthetic fiber and the natural fiber such as cotton, silk and the like under any temperature and humidity conditions, and the fabric has no obvious moist feeling when the fabric is touched by hands after moisture absorption. Wool can regulate the humidity of air in clothes by absorbing and emitting moisture, and has the capability of adapting to the humidity of surrounding air and regulating the content of internal moisture.
Wool and cashmere are purely natural protein fibers, have good moisture permeability and air permeability, good curling effect and fiber curling durability, and are warm-keeping, renewable and degradable. When the wool and the cashmere are made into the blended fabric, the blended fabric is blended with chemical fibers, so that the blended fabric has good warm keeping performance, but the chemical fibers are poor in degradability, and the prepared blended fabric is not degradable.
Polylactic acid (PLA) fiber is corn polylactic acid ester fiber developed by Anhuifeng Yuan group Co., ltd, lactic acid is produced by fermenting biomass starch or straw cellulose, polylactic acid is produced by synthesis, lactic acid is hydrolyzed by microorganisms, water, acid, alkali and the like in the nature after use, the lactic acid is decomposed into carbon dioxide and water in the environment, and starch is produced by photosynthesis of plants and continuously becomes a raw material for lactic acid fermentation. The plant can be directly absorbed by burying in soil organic matters, so that the emission of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere is reduced, and the plant is a recognized environment-friendly material. Is also absolutely safe for human body, does not irritate skin, is beneficial to human health, and has comfortable feeling. The polylactic acid fiber has good hydrophilicity and low density, good elasticity, drapability, biodegradability, good hand feeling, good crimping property and crimping stability, natural bacteriostasis and quick drying and excellent moisture removing capability.
Polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, wool and cashmere are adopted, and each fiber has degradability, so that the fabric prepared by blending has the properties of natural protein fibers, and the functions of bacteriostasis, mite prevention and complete biodegradation are added.
However, the properties of the fibers are greatly different, such as the polylactic acid fibers are not high-temperature resistant, the fibers are easy to plasticize, the colorability is poor, and the like; PLA fiber is not high temperature resistant, and conventional scalding technology can make PLA fiber plasticize hard, and the temperature is reduced, and the wool fiber of blending scalds smooth effect not, and the hair foot is unsmooth, and is gentle, and the feel is bad, and market approval is low. In addition, the wool shrinkage after blending is difficult, the wool shrinkage time is long, the crease shrinkage is serious, the quality of finished products is poor, and the mass production is difficult to form.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the problems in the background problems, and provides the degradable wool blended fabric, which is soft, smooth and elastic in hand feeling, capable of being produced in large scale, high in market acceptance and stable in quality through adjustment of a ironing and milling process.
The purpose of the invention is realized in the following way: a degradable wool blending fabric is formed by blending polylactic acid (PLA) fibers and wool fibers, wherein the wool fibers are wool fibers and/or cashmere fibers.
The mass content of the fiber is 30-50% of polylactic acid fiber and 50-70% of wool fiber.
The raw materials are respectively subjected to loose fiber dyeing, mixed, carded, spun on equipment, woven and post-finished; the post-finishing process comprises a fulling process and a polishing process.
Wherein the step of shrinking woolen cloth comprises the following steps: firstly, adopting a woolen steaming process, secondly, adopting a bag sewing process, and shrinking woolen: adopting a ZOOC shrinkage wool machine, wherein the formula of the shrinkage wool additive is as follows: 1-5% of a detergent, 1-2% of an FXC tweezer.
Technological parameters: the single ring is contracted, the pressure of the compression roller is 1-3 bar, the speed of the vehicle is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 10-16 cm, the pressure of the contraction box plate is 1-3 bar, and the contraction time is 30-150 min.
Preferably, the mixture ratio of the fulling auxiliary agent is as follows: 209 detergent 4-5% owf, FXC tweed agent 1-2% owf; and adopting a single ring milling mode, wherein the pressure of a press roller is 2bar, the pressure of a milling plate is 2bar, the shrinkage opening is 10cm, and the milling time is 100 min.
The scalding procedure comprises the following steps: the self-matched brightening agent (30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softener, 5-15% of sodium bisulphite and 5-15% of water) is adopted, 30-50 g/l of brightening agent is added into a liquid tank, the nylon hairbrush can realize stepless speed regulation, so that the auxiliary agent can be uniformly sprayed to the cloth cover, a quick ironing process with the temperature of 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min is adopted, the cloth cover is continuously ironed for 2 times, and the temperature of the cloth cover is ensured not to be higher than 110 ℃.
The polylactic acid (PLA) fibers are preferably 1.33dtex polylactic acid staple fibers.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
according to the degradable wool blended fabric, the adopted raw material fibers are all degradable fibers, and the PLA and the wool are difficult to shrink after being blended, so that the shrinking time is long, and in order to prevent serious shrinking folds, the grey fabric adopts a wool steaming process to eliminate the internal stress of the grey fabric; secondly, adopting a bag sewing process, adding a detergent into a wool shrinking agent to generate bubbles in the wool shrinking process, and applying the wool shrinking with the bubbles on a ZOOC shrinkage wool machine to ensure that the wool blanks are frequently shifted in the production process to prevent the generation of shrinkage creases; and meanwhile, the milling process is adjusted, so that the milling time is shortened.
Because PLA fiber is not high temperature resistant, conventional scalding technology can make PLA fiber plasticize and harden, and reduce the temperature, the wool fiber of blending is gentle and smooth poor, so adopt low temperature finishing technique to add chemical auxiliary agent to add the technique of polishing, adopt from joining in marriage gloss enhancer and spill to the cloth cover uniformly, amino silicon softener is the disulfide bond that makes the wool foot of fabric straight and level, alcohol play the infiltration effect, sodium bisulphite open wool fiber for amino silicon softener furthest's play soft smooth effect. The low-temperature ironing is adopted, the ironing times are reduced, the wool feet of the fabric are further endowed with smoothness and level, the hand feeling is smooth and soft, the property that polylactic acid is not resistant to high temperature is overcome, the fiber plasticization is prevented, meanwhile, the lower ironing temperature is also more beneficial to protecting wool and cashmere fibers, the energy consumption can be reduced, and the low-carbon economy is met.
In order to prevent high-temperature color change, steaming woolen reduces the steam pressure from original 2.2bar to 1.8bar so as to reduce the influence of damp and hot on the fiber strength and the color light of the cloth cover.
Detailed Description
Example 1
Taking 81396/1 as an example, raw materials: 50% of 15.5 mu m cashmere and 50% of 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fibers.
Dyeing: larch (wool tops), dyeing, dewatering and baking
Spinning part: mixing wool, carding, spinning and winding
Weaving part: warping, drafting, weaving and blank inspection
And (3) post-finishing: raw repair, steaming, washing, shrinking, middle inspection, washing, dehydration, drying, steaming, steel wire napping, thorn napping, rolling, drying, steaming, ironing, shearing, cooking, steaming and brushing, and steaming.
The cashmere is dyed by the environment-friendly reactive dye for wool, a low-temperature dyeing process is adopted, a low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent is selected, and the dyeing temperature is reduced, so that the cashmere fiber is protected, the fiber damage is reduced, and the fiber strength is improved. And the mothproofing agent is added in the dyeing process, so that the mothproofing capability of the cashmere product is improved. Controlling the pH value to be about 4-5, cooling to 80 ℃ after coloring, adding an auxiliary agent for post-treatment, flushing to remove floating color, ensuring that each color fastness index meets the standard requirement, adding the auxiliary agent at normal temperature to neutralize the pH value to be about 6-7, and finally flushing cleanly.
PLA fibers are not heat resistant, and temperature affects not only the dye-uptake, but also other properties of the fiber such as surface smoothness, hand feel, breaking strength, etc. When the PLA fiber is dyed within the temperature range of 80-110 ℃, the dyeing percentage of the disperse dye to the PLA fiber is gradually increased along with the increase of the temperature, and the surface depth of the dyed product is also obviously increased. In the range of 80-110 ℃, the dyeing percentage of PLA fiber is increased by about 5-10% when the temperature is increased by about 10 ℃, and the dyeing percentage reaches the highest after reaching 110 ℃; the dyeing temperature of PLA fiber is controlled to be about 110 ℃, the dyeing time is controlled to be 40-60 min, the pH value is controlled to be about 4-6, the temperature is reduced to 80 ℃ after the dyeing is finished, the auxiliary agent is added for post-treatment, flushing and removing the floating color, ensuring that each color fastness index meets the standard requirement, finally, the auxiliary agent is added for neutralizing the pH value to be about 6-7 at normal temperature, and finally, flushing is carried out cleanly.
And the multi-component raw materials are blended by selecting a carding device for spinning, so that the production difficulty is relatively high. Firstly, the control of the oil-water ratio and the mixing uniformity during the mixing are paid attention to, so that the loosening degree of the mixed materials is ensured; and secondly, the temperature and the humidity of a workshop are controlled, technological parameters such as a speed ratio, a gauge and the like are reasonably regulated on a carding machine, the damage to fibers is reduced, the generation of wool grains is reduced, and the evenness of the yarns is controlled.
And hair: and wool oil water process requirements: 2-4% of crude oil and 1-2% of antistatic agent, and the moisture regain of a mixer is required to be controlled to be 18-22%. If the wool is mixed, firstly, the low-proportion cashmere fiber is subjected to a false sum process, then the wool is mixed with the high-proportion cashmere fiber, oil water is uniformly sprayed, and the wool is placed at room temperature for 24 h to enable the fiber to fully absorb the oil water. The polylactic acid fiber is not directly added with oil water after being opened. The wool fiber fully absorbing the oil and water enters a wool mixing machine to be opened in a direct taking mode, is evenly mixed with the polylactic acid fiber, and enters Chu Maocang to be put on the machine after being fully mixed.
Carding: the main cylinder rotation speed is set to 80 r/min for the front car and 90 r/min for the rear car. The different front and rear car rotational speeds are adjusted in order to protect the fibres as much as possible. Because the fibers just above are in a lump, twisted rather than straightened state, the fibers are easily pulled and damaged when carding. Placing the raw materials in a wool bucket on an H272 carding machine, wherein the depth of the wool bucket is not more than 2/3. The feeding was adjusted to Mao Liang 240 g/time, the feeding cycle was 50S, the roving take-off speed was 15 m/min, and the roving sliver weight was 2.69 g.+ -. 2.5%/30 m. By feeding Mao Ya 31 T The speed of the wool feeding curtain is regulated, so that the mixed materials on the wool feeding curtain are uniformly spread; the middle gap bridge fleece is reasonably lapped, and the lower edge 2 knuckles of the first layer fleece are lapped on the upper edge of the third layer fleece; after cutting, the fleece enters into the dividing deviceThe cutting groove is used for properly adjusting the speed of the guide compression roller, so that the problem of thick and thin knots of the rough yarn caused by accidental drafting of the rough yarn is prevented, the stroke and the gauge of the rubber rubbing plate are properly adjusted, the obtained rough yarn Mao Juanjin is not loose, the forming is good, and a good foundation is laid for the production of the next spun yarn. Due to the proper number of rovings, the machine workload is moderate. When the mixed color variety is made, the fiber carding can be enhanced, doffer and working roller adopt the technology of bigger speed ratio as much as possible, and simultaneously the wind wheel speed ratio and the arc sweeping length are properly adjusted. The wind wheel ratio is increased step by step from 1.26 to 1.32, the arc sweeping is reduced step by step from 32 to 28 and mm, the wind wheel plays a good role in the entanglement of fibers on the cylinder, and the carding of doffers on the fibers is further enhanced. The distance between each doffer, the working roller and the cylinder is adjusted step by step according to (0.17-0.14-0.14-0.12-0.10) mm. Through a series of process adjustment and improvement, the wool net of the machine is clear and uniform, and the fibers are straightened and leveled, so that the fibers are protected, the damage is reduced, and the tensile strength and the elastic elongation of the wool yarn are improved.
Spinning: the BC586 spinning frame is provided with total draft 1.26, twist 480 turns/meter, wire hook 19 #, and 14/1 Nm single yarn is spun under the conditions of vehicle speed 3400 r/min, each doffing small, medium and large is drawn and tested once, and the draft value is adjusted at any time according to the upper machine draft under the conditions that the total draft exceeds +/-2.5 percent. The tensioning wheel is adjusted to ensure that the roving take-out speed is properly larger than the feeding speed, and the detail defect yarns caused by accidental drafting are prevented.
Winding: the speed of the SAVIO winding machine is 800 m/min, the length of the winding machine is 11000 m, the splicing air pressure is 4-6 bar, the yarn tension is 80-100 mbar, and various defects are removed on an electric cleaner.
Weaving process
The single yarn hairiness and the weak knots are more, the broken yarn strength is low, the broken end rate is high, the yarn sticking is easy to generate the weaving defects such as jumping, and the like, and the yarn is produced on the G6300 rapier loom in the actual production process, and the process principles of low tension, low vehicle speed and large opening are adopted, so that the smooth production is ensured. Taking 81396/1 as an example, the weaving process is as follows:
warping tension: 15-25, g, reverse axis tension: 15-25 and g.
Weaving single yarn tension: 15-25, g, vehicle speed: 300 r/min.
The back beam height is +2 to-1.5 cm, and the drop frame height is 0 to-3.5 cm.
The weaving shed is clear and the heald frame height is page 1, page 70 mm, after which each page is decremented by 3-4 mm.
Heald time: 312-322 degrees.
After optimizing the technological parameters of the upper machine, the production efficiency of the loom reaches more than 85 percent.
The cashmere after-treatment process flow is as follows:
and (3) repairing: the weaving defects, hair grains, color hair, grass scraps and the like on the woolen blank are trimmed, and the longer missing warps, missing wefts, long rovings, long bow yarns, small jump flowers, cobweb and the like are all trimmed by the same warp and weft yarns according to the original tissue.
Washing woolen: the raw materials are used in the spinning process, and crude oil, sizing agent and antistatic agent are smeared with greasy dirt and dust in the processes, and the residual dye scraps and the like in the raw material dyeing are required to be removed to clean the fabrics. The formula of the auxiliary agent comprises the following steps: 0.5-1% of sodium carbonate, 1-2% of 209 detergent, 1-2% of FXC milling agent, 40-50 ℃ of washing temperature and 40-60 min of washing time.
Milling: adopting a ZOOC shrinkage wool machine, adopting a shrinkage wool process with bubbles, and adopting an auxiliary agent formula: 209 detergent 3% owf, FXC tweezer 2% owf. Technological parameters: the single ring is contracted, the pressure of the compression roller is 2bar, the pressure of the contraction box plate is 2bar, the vehicle speed is 160 m/min, the contraction opening is 10cm, and the contraction time is 100 min.
Drawing steel wires: the steel wire needle roller is adopted for fluffing, the fluffing effect of the reverse needle roller is larger, V Reverse direction ﹥V Cis-cis The tension of the front cloth guide roller is 0.75, the tension of the rear cloth guide roller is 0.95, the cylinder is 75 r/min, and the cloth speed is 10-12 m/min.
Napping thorn fruits: rolling liquid at 50-60 ℃ before the machine is started, and the dosage of the softening agent is 30-50 g/l. After passing through the hot water tank, the mixture enters a softer triple thorn fruit roller to be continuously processed for each pass through Mao Zhengfan, and the wool surface generates wave-shaped fluff appearance. Each contact point 12-16 is adjusted step by step at a speed of 10 m/min.
And (3) drying: and determining the width of the baked woolen according to the specification requirement of the product and the shrinkage degree of the width of the woolen blank in the finishing process, so that the fabric is fixed in width. The temperature is 140 ℃, the speed is 8-12 m/min, the width is opened 154-158 cm, and the overfeeding is 5-10%.
Scalding and shearing: the fluff on the surface of the fabric is uneven in length, which affects the beauty. And cutting down the fluff to be level according to the style and quality requirements of the product, so that the woolen surface is level, the appearance is improved, and pilling is reduced. The scalding temperature is 150 ℃, the speed is 11m/min, the shearing distance is 4.86, the speed is 16m/min, and the front side and the back side are continuously 2 times.
When in hot light: adding 35g/l of brightening agent into the liquid tank, uniformly spraying an auxiliary agent to the cloth cover by adopting a hairbrush, wherein the temperature is less than or equal to 150 ℃, the speed is 12 m/min, and the quick ironing process is carried out for 2 times, so that the temperature of the cloth cover is not higher than 110 ℃;
the brightening agent comprises the following components: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softener, 10% of sodium bisulphite and 10% of water.
Middle inspection and finishing: the middle inspection, the inspection of the problems possibly generated in the wet whole process, is convenient for adjusting the process scheme in time, and also can know the state of the machine in time. And (5) finishing, namely picking grass scraps on the cloth surface, repairing a small number of front defects and wool grains on the cloth surface.
Steaming and brushing: after shearing, brushing can be performed to brush off the flocks sheared on the surface of the fabric, and brushing and steam spraying are performed simultaneously.
Steaming woolen cloth: normal pressure single roller steaming woolen cloth, and has saturated steam penetration, T=100-110 deg.c, effective acting time of 3-8 min and steam pressure of 1.4-1.55 kgf/cm 2 。
The prepared fabric has soft hand feeling, and is flexible and elastic.
Example 2
Respectively dyeing 21.0 mu m Australian wool and 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fiber, mixing 60% of Australian wool and 40% of polylactic acid short fiber, carding, spinning, weaving, finishing and weaving into fabric;
wherein: the dyeing temperature of PLA fiber should be controlled at about 110 ℃, the dyeing time should be controlled at 40-60 min, and the pH value should be controlled at 4-6.
The post finishing process comprises a fulling process and a polishing process;
before the milling, a woolen steaming process is adopted, wherein the vapor pressure is 1.8bar.
In the wool shrinking process, a ZOOC wool shrinking machine is adopted, and the formula of the wool shrinking auxiliary agent is as follows: 209 detergent 2% owf, FXC tweed 2% owf; the process adopts single ring milling, the pressure of a press roller is 2bar, the speed of the press roller is 150 m/min, the necking is 13cm, the pressure of a milling plate is 2bar, and the milling time is 90min; the fabric has no shrink crease, the suede is plump, fine, clean and smooth, and the hand feeling is rich in elasticity.
The scalding procedure comprises the following steps: adopting a self-matched brightening agent, adding 40g/l of the brightening agent into a liquid tank, uniformly spraying an auxiliary agent to the cloth cover by adopting a hairbrush, continuously ironing for 2 times at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min by adopting a rapid ironing process, and ensuring that the temperature of the cloth cover is not higher than 110 ℃;
the self-matching brightening agent comprises the following components: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softener, 10% of sodium bisulphite and 10% of water.
The prepared fabric has the advantages of stretching wool fibers, leveling the fibers after ironing, good flatness, soft and smooth hand feeling and good luster.
Example 3
Respectively dyeing 15.5 mu m cashmere, 17.5 mu m Australian wool and 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fibers, mixing 35% of cashmere, 35% of Australian wool and 30% of polylactic acid short fibers, carding, spinning, weaving, and finishing to obtain the fabric;
wherein: the dyeing temperature of PLA fiber should be controlled at about 110 ℃, the dyeing time should be controlled at 40-60 min, and the pH value should be controlled at 4-6.
The post finishing process comprises a fulling process and a polishing process;
in the wool shrinking process, a ZOOC wool shrinking machine is adopted, and the formula of the wool shrinking auxiliary agent is as follows: 209 detergent 4% owf, FXC tweed 1% owf; the process adopts single ring milling, the pressure of a press roller is 2bar, the speed of the press roller is 160 m/min, the necking is 10cm, the pressure of a milling plate is 2bar, and the milling time is 100min; the fabric has no shrink crease, the suede is plump, fine, clean and smooth, and the hand feeling is rich in elasticity.
The scalding procedure comprises the following steps: adopting a self-matched brightening agent, adding 40g/l of the brightening agent into a liquid tank, uniformly spraying an auxiliary agent to the cloth cover by adopting a hairbrush, continuously ironing for 2 times at the temperature of less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 12 m/min by adopting a rapid ironing process, and ensuring that the temperature of the cloth cover is not higher than 110 ℃;
the self-matching brightening agent comprises the following components: 45% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softener, 10% of sodium bisulphite and 10% of water.
Before the milling, a woolen steaming process is adopted, wherein the vapor pressure is 1.8bar.
The prepared fabric has the advantages of stretching wool fibers, leveling the fibers after ironing, good flatness, soft and elastic hand feeling and better luster.
Comparative example 1
In the step of milling, no detergent is added to the auxiliary agent, and the rest of the process is the same as that of example 2.
In the process of milling, the milling crease of the fabric is serious, the milling size cannot be achieved within a specified time, and the milling time needs to be prolonged. After the continuous production is prolonged, the prepared fabric has hard hand feeling and poor elasticity.
Comparative example 2
In the polishing step, only an aminosilane softener was used, and the other processes were the same as in example 2.
Wool feet on the woolen surfaces are not flush, and the lodging directions of the wool are not consistent, so that the flatness and glossiness of the fabric are affected.
The foregoing is merely a specific application example of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited in any way. All technical schemes formed by equivalent transformation or equivalent substitution fall within the protection scope of the invention.
Claims (5)
1. A preparation process of a degradable wool blended fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of: the raw materials are polylactic acid fibers and wool fibers which are wool fibers and/or cashmere fibers; the process comprises the following steps: the raw materials are respectively subjected to loose fiber dyeing, mixed, carded, spun and woven, and then subjected to post-finishing; the post-finishing process comprises a fulling process and a polishing process;
wherein the step of shrinking woolen cloth comprises the following steps: adopting a ZOOC shrinkage wool machine, wherein the formula of the shrinkage wool additive is as follows: 209 detergent 1-5% owf, FXC tweed agent 1-2% owf; the process adopts single ring milling, the pressure of a press roller is 1-3 bar, the speed of the press roller is 140-160 m/min, the necking is 10-16 cm, the pressure of a milling plate is 1-3 bar, and the milling time is 30-150 min;
the scalding procedure comprises the following steps: adopting self-matched brightening agent, adding 30-50 g/l brightening agent into a liquid tank, adopting a hairbrush to spray an auxiliary agent to a cloth cover, adopting a rapid ironing process with the temperature less than or equal to 150 ℃ and the speed of 10-13 m/min, continuously ironing for 2 times, and ensuring the temperature of the cloth cover not to be higher than 110 ℃;
the self-matching brightening agent comprises the following components: 30-50% of alcohol, 30-50% of amino silicon softener, 5-15% of sodium bisulphite and 5-15% of water;
the mass content of each fiber is 30-50% of polylactic acid fiber, and 50-70% of wool fiber;
adopting a woolen steaming process before the wool shrinking process, and adopting a bag sewing process;
the steam pressure is 1.8bar in the woolen steaming process.
2. The process for preparing the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the polylactic acid fiber is 1.33dtex polylactic acid short fiber.
3. The process for preparing the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the self-matching brightening agent comprises the following components: 40% of alcohol, 40% of amino silicon softener, 10% of sodium bisulphite and 10% of water.
4. The process for preparing the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the pressure of the compression roller of the milling process is 2bar, the pressure of the milling plate is 2bar, the necking is 10 and cm, and the milling time is 100 min.
5. The process for preparing the degradable wool blended fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the mixture ratio of the wool-shrinking auxiliary agent is as follows: 209 detergent 3-5% owf, FXC tweezer 1-2% owf.
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| CN1062766A (en) * | 1990-12-25 | 1992-07-15 | 内蒙古轻工业厅皮革科学研究所 | The production method of a kind of mao of leather and purposes |
| CN105671739A (en) * | 2016-03-16 | 2016-06-15 | 江阴新嘉美服饰有限公司 | Soft fabric |
| CN106063595A (en) * | 2016-06-03 | 2016-11-02 | 江阴市悦达印染有限公司 | A kind of workman's clothes and web process thereof |
| CN108823889A (en) * | 2018-07-20 | 2018-11-16 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of afterfinish method of the knitting woollen single side fulling milling fabric without folding line |
| CN215551594U (en) * | 2021-07-19 | 2022-01-18 | 广东创时尚智能股份有限公司 | Cold-resistant warm-keeping cashmere material |
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Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1062766A (en) * | 1990-12-25 | 1992-07-15 | 内蒙古轻工业厅皮革科学研究所 | The production method of a kind of mao of leather and purposes |
| CN105671739A (en) * | 2016-03-16 | 2016-06-15 | 江阴新嘉美服饰有限公司 | Soft fabric |
| CN106063595A (en) * | 2016-06-03 | 2016-11-02 | 江阴市悦达印染有限公司 | A kind of workman's clothes and web process thereof |
| CN108823889A (en) * | 2018-07-20 | 2018-11-16 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of afterfinish method of the knitting woollen single side fulling milling fabric without folding line |
| CN215551594U (en) * | 2021-07-19 | 2022-01-18 | 广东创时尚智能股份有限公司 | Cold-resistant warm-keeping cashmere material |
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