CN115429705B - 一种素肌净颜隔离霜及其制备工艺 - Google Patents
一种素肌净颜隔离霜及其制备工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115429705B CN115429705B CN202211200576.3A CN202211200576A CN115429705B CN 115429705 B CN115429705 B CN 115429705B CN 202211200576 A CN202211200576 A CN 202211200576A CN 115429705 B CN115429705 B CN 115429705B
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种素肌净颜隔离霜及其制备工艺,素肌净颜隔离霜是将两种乳化体系同时存在于一种体系里面,将亲油性的乳化剂和亲水性的乳化剂搭配,来获得一种比较低HLB值的乳化体,并添加聚合物来稳定体系;也就是将W/O聚合体乳化剂与一种温和的表面活性剂复配形成一种O/W乳化体,该乳化体会在使用时转变为W/O;乳化体系的亲油性及聚合物的配合使用,使含水量较高的体系也可发生转变;并通过创新设计的工艺制作出本产品,形成了理想的均一稳定的乳化体;本发明的产品清新感受,易于涂展、柔软舒适的豪华感受;涂展时连贯的柔软丝垫感;持妆比较持久,而且不浮粉不花斑,防水性能比较好。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种素肌净颜隔离霜及其制备工艺,属于化妆品技术领域。
背景技术
常见的乳化体系,大多数为水包油体系;以O/W表示,也就是将油作为内相,水相作为连续的外相,通过乳化剂的作用,形成稳定的不分离的乳化体系。大多数膏霜乳液为水包油体系,其特点就是操作工艺比较简单、肤感清爽、有较好的铺展性等优点,但是滋润度很难与油包水体系相媲美。而且在配方里添加防晒、遮瑕等作用的话,配方很难做到稳定,即使做到稳定,功效方面也达不到理想的效果。油包水体系以W/O表示,油包水型乳化体具有亮洁、光滑、细腻的外观,质地会滋润、醇厚,具有高效的净洗效果和优良的润滑作用,但油腻感较强,是化妆品底妆、防晒产品方面最为常用的剂型。
市面上有很多种隔离霜或者隔离乳,绝大多数都是直接做成油包水体系,达到隔离、遮瑕的作用,要么是普通的水包油体系添加亲水处理的钛白粉和色粉,来做成的隔离乳霜,但是都有各方面的缺陷。纯油包水体系料体清爽性受到了一定的限制,即使使用在清爽的油脂搭配,涂抹的感觉还是不够清爽,水润。这是外相油脂及蜡硅油一系列的油相物质所决定的。如果一味的去追求清爽水润,有可能造成产品配方的不稳定性。同样纯水包油的体系,虽然很容易做到清爽水润,但是防水性以及遮瑕、持妆以及色粉的分散等效果不理想,这也是配方与工艺特性所决定的。
因此,本申请在配方的构成上,并通过特殊的工艺,发明了这款素肌净颜隔离霜;目前未有这种转相技术(在有粉体的特别是有色粉在体系里面),可以做到均一稳定,使水包油体系和油包水同时存在在一个体系里面。
发明内容
针对上述存在的技术问题,本发明的目的是:提出了一种素肌净颜隔离霜及其制备工艺。
本发明的技术解决方案是这样实现的:
一种素肌净颜隔离霜,包含以下原料组分:W/O乳化剂0%-1%,O/W乳化剂2%-5%,聚合物稳定剂0%-3%,润肤剂10%-35%,赋形剂0%-3%,遮瑕粉剂2%-5%,活性物添加剂0%-3%,无添加防腐剂0%-1%,保湿剂0.01%-1%,溶剂45%-80%。
优选的,所述W/O乳化剂为:
CITHROLTM DPHS-SO-(AP);
KF-6017、KF-6028、KF-6038;
ABIL EM90;
KSG-210、KSG-710;
DOWSIL ES-5300、DOWSIL 5225C;
其中的一种或几种的组合。
优选的,所述O/W乳化剂为:
阴离子表面活性剂,如:LGC Sorb;/>SG;
糖苷类乳化剂,如:MONTANOV 68、MONTANOV FL、EMULGADE PL 68/50;
聚甘油改性有机硅,如:KF6104、KF6100;
硅酮类乳化剂,如CARE XL 80;
聚醚改性有机硅,如:KF-6028,DOWSIL 2551;
其中的一种或几种的组合。
优选的,所述聚合物稳定剂为:SP、Aristoflex AVC、SIMULGEL EG、SEPIGEL 305,其中的一种或几种的组合。
优选的,所述遮瑕粉剂选用三乙氧基硅氧烷处理的钛白粉和色粉。
优选的,所述防腐剂选用无添加防腐剂,INOLEX的辛酰羟肟酸和增效的多元醇。
优选的,所述润肤剂选择清爽、滋润度比较高的、易于铺展的极性油脂;如:异壬酸异壬酯、低粘度聚二甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡醇乙基己酯、椰油醇-辛酸/癸酸酯、2EHP、碳酸二辛酯,其中的一种或几种的组合。
优选的,所述保湿剂选择:甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇;多糖类保湿剂;四重透明质酸钠;其中的一种或几种的组合。
所述四重透明质酸钠(大小分子以及乙酰化、铰链等)通过采用四种不同分子量的透明质酸钠及透明质酸钠衍生物进行复配,使得制备得到的玻尿酸原液具有良好的保湿效果,且能快速渗透进人体肌肤,从而快速补充人体肌肤内的透明质酸钠,延缓透明质酸钠的流失。
优选的,所述活性物添加剂选择:雪绒花提取物、麦角硫因、密蒙花提取物、茶复合物、山茶花提取物、欧刺柏果提取物以及乳木果油,其中的一种或几种的组合。
一种素肌净颜隔离霜的制备工艺,包括以下步骤:
①制作W/O乳化体系:将油包水乳化剂与成膜剂、柔顺剂以及着色剂制作成油相;然后再将部分成膜剂、乳化剂和增稠剂搅拌分散在水中,制作成凝胶,然后加入到上述油相中,充分乳化均质,制成均一稳定的油相凝胶;
②将水相原料与防腐剂、保湿剂、柔润剂混合搅拌溶解至无颗粒,然后加入水中,再加入剩余成膜剂、乳化剂和增稠剂搅拌加热至75-80℃,得到水相;
③将油相原料与润肤剂、乳化剂、保湿剂混合均匀加热至70-75℃,溶解均匀,得到油相;
④将加热好的油相慢速均质,并缓慢加入水相中,真空下快速均质,然后降温;
⑤加入步骤①中制备好的油相凝胶,搅拌均匀,然后慢速均质;
⑥加入剩余的活性物添加剂和保湿剂,搅拌均匀后检测,检测合格后出料。
由于上述技术方案的运用,本发明与现有技术相比具有下列优点:
本发明没有通过简单的在O/W乳化体系中添加强电解质,而达到转相为W/O体系,而达到想要的结果。而是将两种乳化体系同时存在于一种体系里面,将亲油性的乳化剂和亲水性的乳化剂搭配,来获得一种比较低HLB值的乳化体,并添加聚合物来稳定体系;也就是将W/O聚合体乳化剂与一种温和的表面活性剂复配形成一种O/W乳化体,该乳化体会在使用时转变为W/O;乳化体系的亲油性及聚合物的配合使用,使含水量较高的体系也可发生转变。
通过创新设计的工艺制作出来的本产品,体系不但是水包油清爽体系,而且也有油包水防水体系,油包水体系也不会受到破坏,形成了理想的均一稳定的乳化体。
本发明的产品清新感受,易于涂展、柔软舒适的豪华感受;涂展时连贯的柔软丝垫感;持妆比较持久,而且不浮粉不花斑,防水性能比较好。
附图说明
附图1为本发明的实施例1-3的产品微观结构对比图;
附图2为本发明的实施例1-3的使用感对比效果对比图;
附图3为本发明的实施例1的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图;
附图4为本发明的实施例2的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图;
附图5为本发明的实施例3的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和实施例来进一步说明本发明。
首先确定影响乳化体系稳定性的因素:
1、相的添加顺序,水加到油-乳化剂中,可以得到O/W型乳化剂,油加到水-相同乳化剂中可能产生W/O型乳化体,但最终形成哪一种类型的乳化体,是否会发生变型取决于体系亲水-亲油平衡值(HLB)。水包油乳化剂HLB值一般在8到18之间,以非离子型的居多。
2、界面膜的性质,乳化体中的分散液滴总是不停地运动。如果在碰撞时,乳化体中相互碰撞的液滴的界面膜破坏,两液滴将会聚结形成较大的液滴。若聚结过程继续,分散相会从乳化体分离出来,发生“破乳”。界面膜的机械强度使决定乳化体的主要因素。
3、分散相液滴的带电情况,当分散相液滴由于吸附了带电离子,就会使液滴表面带电,形成双层,减少液滴接近的频率和液滴接近及接触面导致液滴聚结的概率。
4、位阻稳定作用,位阻稳定作用指分散液或者乳化体的不连续相表面吸附高分子聚合物。形成高分子吸附层组织分散粒子或者液滴间的聚结,使分散液或者乳化体稳定的作用。
5、连续相黏度两相密度差液滴大小和分布,外相黏度增加,黏度系数减少,沉降速度下降,有利于乳化体稳定性的增加。两相密度差减小,沉降速度下降,这也是有利于乳化体的稳定。液滴大小的影响较复杂,但是大量实验表明,液滴越小乳化体越稳定。液滴大小分布均匀的乳化体较具有相同平均粒径的宽分布的乳化体稳定。
6、相体积比,乳化体的被分散相体积增加,界面膜越来越膨胀,才可把被分散相包围住。界面膜变薄,体系的不稳定性增加。
7、体系的温度,温度变化会引起乳化体一些性质和状态的变化,其中包括:两相间的界面张力、界面膜的性质和黏度、乳化剂在两相的相对溶解度、液相的蒸汽压和黏度,被分散粒子的热运动等。因此,温度变化可能会使乳化体变型或者引起破乳。
8、电解质和其他添加物,若向离子表面活性剂稳定的O/W型乳化体添加强电解质,会降低分散粒子的电势、增强表面活性剂离子和反离子之间的相互作用,O/W型会转变为W/O型乳化体。
本发明不是通过简单的在O/W乳化体系中添加强电解质,而达到转相为W/O体系。而达到想要的结果。我们的发明就是将两种乳化体系同时存在于一种体系里面。将亲油性的乳化剂和亲水性的乳化剂搭配,来获得一种比较低HLB值的乳化体。并添加聚合物来稳定体系。也就是将W/O聚合体乳化剂与一种温和的表面活性剂复配形成一种O/W乳化体,该乳化体会在使用时转变为W/O。乳化体系的亲油性及聚合物的配合使用,使含水量较高的体系也可发生转变。
基于上述内容,本发明设计了素肌净颜隔离霜的配方:W/O乳化剂0%-1%,O/W乳化剂2%-5%,聚合物稳定剂0%-3%,润肤剂10%-35%,赋形剂0%-3%,遮瑕粉剂2%-5%,活性物添加剂0%-3%,无添加防腐剂0%-1%,保湿剂0.01%-1%,溶剂45%-80%。
具体的实施例如下:
实施例1
水52.81%;
甘油9%;
丁二醇6%;
葡糖醛酸0.1%;
甘露糖0.2%;
β-葡聚糖1.65%;
乳糖酸0.05%;
1,2-己二醇0.4%;
对羟基苯乙酮0.4%;
1,3-丙二醇0.2%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
辛酰羟肟酸0.1%;
透明质酸钠0.06%;
乙酰化透明质酸钠0.03%;
透明质酸钠铰链聚合物0.5%;
月桂基PEG-10三(三甲硅氧基)甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷2%;
生育酚(维生素E)0.2%;
环五聚二甲基硅氧烷4%;
环己硅氧烷0.5%;
CI778913%;
异壬酸异壬酯5%;
聚二甲基硅氧烷1%;
氢氧化铝0.5%;
鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯5%;
双-PEG/PPG-20/5PEG/PPG-20/5聚二甲基硅氧烷2%;
甲氧基PEG/PPG-25/4聚二甲基硅氧烷1%;
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2%;
异十六烷0.5%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUMPARKII)果脂0.2%;
高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUMALPINUM)花/叶提取物0.5%;
密蒙花(BUDDLEJAOFFICINALIS)提取物0.5%;
山茶(CAMELLIAJAPONICA)花提取物0.2%;
欧刺柏(JUNIPERUSCOMMUNIS)果提取物0.1%;
CI774910.05%;
CI774920.05%;
实施例2
水54.71%;
甘油9%;
丁二醇6%;
葡糖醛酸0.1%;
甘露糖0.2%;
β-葡聚糖1.65%;
乳糖酸0.05%;
1,2-己二醇0.4%;
对羟基苯乙酮0.4%;
1,3-丙二醇0.2%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
辛酰羟肟酸0.1%;
透明质酸钠0.06%;
乙酰化透明质酸钠0.03%;
透明质酸钠铰链聚合物0.5%;
月桂基PEG-10三(三甲硅氧基)甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷1.2%;
生育酚(维生素E)0.2%;
环五聚二甲基硅氧烷4%;
环己硅氧烷0.5%;
CI778913%;
异壬酸异壬酯5%;
聚二甲基硅氧烷1%;
氢氧化铝0.5%;
鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯4%;
双-PEG/PPG-20/5PEG/PPG-20/5聚二甲基硅氧烷1.5%;
甲氧基PEG/PPG-25/4聚二甲基硅氧烷1%;
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2%;
异十六烷0.5%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUMPARKII)果脂0.2%;
高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUMALPINUM)花/叶提取物0.5%;
密蒙花(BUDDLEJAOFFICINALIS)提取物0.5%;
山茶(CAMELLIAJAPONICA)花提取物0.2%;
欧刺柏(JUNIPERUSCOMMUNIS)果提取物0.1%;
CI774910.05%;
CI774920.05%;
实施例3
水59.11%;
甘油8%;
丁二醇5%;
葡糖醛酸0.1%;
甘露糖0.2%;
β-葡聚糖1.65%;
乳糖酸0.05%;
1,2-己二醇0.4%;
对羟基苯乙酮0.4%;
1,3-丙二醇0.2%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
辛酰羟肟酸0.1%;
透明质酸钠0.06%;
乙酰化透明质酸钠0.03%;
透明质酸钠铰链聚合物0.5%;
月桂基PEG-10三(三甲硅氧基)甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷0.5%;
生育酚(维生素E)0.2%;
环五聚二甲基硅氧烷4%;
环己硅氧烷0.5%;
CI778913%;
异壬酸异壬酯5%;
聚二甲基硅氧烷1%;
氢氧化铝0.5%;
鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯3%;
双-PEG/PPG-20/5PEG/PPG-20/5聚二甲基硅氧烷1.4%;
甲氧基PEG/PPG-25/4聚二甲基硅氧烷0.8%;
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯2%;
异十六烷0.5%;
甘油辛酸酯0.2%;
牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUMPARKII)果脂0.2%;
高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUMALPINUM)花/叶提取物0.5%;
密蒙花(BUDDLEJAOFFICINALIS)提取物0.5%;
山茶(CAMELLIAJAPONICA)花提取物0.2%;
欧刺柏(JUNIPERUSCOMMUNIS)果提取物0.1%;
CI774910.05%;
CI774920.05%;
通过以上配方组合,通过特殊工艺(详见下面详述),测试下来得出以下结果:
配方一料体结构稳定细腻,光泽度好,通过稳定性考察,料体乳化稳定。但是不易推开,防水效果不好,易浮粉容易出现花斑现象。
通过再次优化配方,调整了乳化剂的比例。与配方一相比,稳定性外观更好与配方一,配方二明显比配方一清爽易推开,延展性好,色粉分散均匀。初步达到了体系相转变的效果。但是仍然防水效果不是太好。在配方二的基础上,又再次修改,做出了配方三。
通过采用上述技术方案,采用上述比例的各组分和工艺,得到的本产品各个方面更加优异。
通过采用上述技术方案,本申请产品制备的素肌净颜隔离霜,各种原料组分组合之后,不仅外观稳定性达到极佳,而且涂抹使用性表现以及持妆妆效都非常的好。
通过显微镜观察,实施例1-3的微观结构如图1所示,对比观察,图三的乳化结构更均匀、油水相分布更均一,说明稳定性也更好。
使用感对比效果如图2所示,图中每一个项目中的三个竖条,从左到右依次为实施例1、2、3的产品,可以看出,三种实施方式均可以得到很好的使用效果,其中实施例3的效果最佳。
而稳定性的对比如图3-5所示,图3为实施例1的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图;图4为的实施例2的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图;图5为的实施例3的产品分别在室温下4天、一个月和45℃下一个月的显微镜下观察图。
可以看出,三种实施方式都具有一定的稳定性,而实施例3的稳定性最佳。
上述实施例1-3的素肌净颜隔离霜均按照如下方法制备:
①制作W/O乳化体系:将油包水乳化剂月桂基PEG-10三(三甲硅氧基)甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷与聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷以及CI 77891、氢氧化铝和色粉制作成油相;然后再将丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物总量的15%搅拌500rpm下分散在配方里水的20%里面,制作成凝胶,然后加入上面制作的油相中,充分乳化均质(5000转/分钟)3分钟,制成均一稳定的油相凝胶,作为一特别添加相原料A备用;
②将水相原料对羟基苯乙酮与1,3-丙二醇、甘油辛酸酯、辛酰羟肟酸、透明质酸钠、乙酰化透明质酸钠和透明质酸钠铰链聚合物加入甘油、丁二醇的混合物中搅拌溶解无颗粒,然后加入水(加补充水1.5%)中,再加入丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物(剩余的85%)搅拌加热至75-80℃,得到水相;
③将油相原料生育酚(维生素E)与鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯、双-PEG/PPG-20/5PEG/PPG-20/5聚二甲基硅氧烷、甲氧基PEG/PPG-25/4聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII)果脂混合均匀加热至70--75℃,溶解均匀,得到油相;
④将加热好的油相在慢速均质(1500rpm)情况下,缓慢加入水相中,真空下快速均质(3000rpm)5分钟,然后降温;
⑤降温至45℃时,加入备好的原料A,搅拌均匀,然后慢速均质(1000rpm)1分钟;
⑥加入剩余的活性物添加剂,以及葡糖醛酸、甘露糖、β-葡聚糖、乳糖酸、1,2-己二醇等原料,搅拌均匀后检测,检测合格后出料。
通过以上工艺,制作出来的本产品,体系不但是水包油清爽体系,而且也有油包水防水体系,通过以上的操作,油包水体系也不会受到破坏;形成了理想的均一稳定的乳化体。
整体来说,本产品清新感受,易于涂展、柔软舒适的豪华感受。涂展时连贯的柔软丝垫感。持妆比较持久,而且不浮粉不花斑,防水性能比较好。
上述配方的部分原料如下表所示:
表1部分原料来源
上述实施例只为说明本发明的技术构思及特点,其目的在于让熟悉此项技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施,并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围,凡根据本发明精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。
Claims (5)
1.一种素肌净颜隔离霜,其特征在于,包含以下原料组分:
W/O乳化剂0%-1%,O/W乳化剂2%-5%,聚合物稳定剂0%-3%,润肤剂10%-35%,赋形剂0%-3%,遮瑕粉剂2%-5%,活性物添加剂0%-3%,无添加防腐剂0%-1%,保湿剂0.01%-1%,溶剂45%-80%;
其中,所述W/O乳化剂为:
CITHROLTMDPHS-SO-(AP);
KF-6017、KF-6028、KF-6038;
ABIL EM90;
KSG-210、KSG-710;
DOWSIL ES-5300、DOWSIL 5225C;
其中的一种或几种的组合;
所述O/W乳化剂为:阴离子表面活性剂、糖苷类乳化剂、聚甘油改性有机硅、硅酮类乳化剂、聚醚改性有机硅,其中的一种或几种的组合;
所述聚合物稳定剂为:SP、Aristoflex AVC、SIMULGEL EG、SEPIGEL 305,其中的一种或几种的组合;
所述防腐剂选用无添加防腐剂,INOLEX的辛酰羟肟酸和增效的多元醇;
所述素肌净颜隔离霜的制备工艺包括以下步骤:
①制作W/O乳化体系:将油包水乳化剂与成膜剂、柔顺剂以及着色剂制作成油相;然后再将部分成膜剂、乳化剂和增稠剂搅拌分散在水中,制作成凝胶,然后加入到上述油相中,充分乳化均质,制成均一稳定的油相凝胶;
②将水相原料与防腐剂、保湿剂、柔润剂混合搅拌溶解至无颗粒,然后加入水中,再加入剩余成膜剂、乳化剂和增稠剂搅拌加热至75-80℃,得到水相;
③将油相原料与润肤剂、乳化剂、保湿剂混合均匀加热至70-75℃,溶解均匀,得到油相;
④将加热好的油相慢速均质,并缓慢加入水相中,真空下快速均质,然后降温;
⑤加入步骤①中制备好的油相凝胶,搅拌均匀,然后慢速均质;
⑥加入剩余的活性物添加剂和保湿剂,搅拌均匀后检测,检测合格后出料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的素肌净颜隔离霜,其特征在于:所述遮瑕粉剂选用三乙氧基硅氧烷处理的钛白粉和色粉。
3.根据权利要求1所述的素肌净颜隔离霜,其特征在于:所述润肤剂选择:异壬酸异壬酯、低粘度聚二甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡醇乙基己酯、椰油醇-辛酸/癸酸酯、2EHP、碳酸二辛酯,其中的一种或几种的组合。
4.根据权利要求1所述的素肌净颜隔离霜,其特征在于:所述保湿剂选择:甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇;多糖类保湿剂;透明质酸钠;其中的一种或几种的组合。
5.根据权利要求1所述的素肌净颜隔离霜,其特征在于:所述活性物添加剂选择:雪绒花提取物、麦角硫因、密蒙花提取物、茶复合物、山茶花提取物、欧刺柏果提取物以及乳木果油,其中的一种或几种的组合。
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