CN115387125A - 天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明本属于面料免烫技术领域，具体涉及一种天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺。包括烧毛、退浆、丝光、预柔软、潮交联、潮交联水洗、拉幅步骤。所述的丝光工序中，烧碱浓度为8‑10波美度，碱温度为25‑35℃，采用双浸双轧，绷布滚筒丝光。所述的丝光工序，采用布铗丝光机，车速为50‑60m/min，浸碱时间为40‑50s。本发明通过添加丝光步骤，使纤维发生最大程度的溶胀，增加面料的屈曲度，面料经树脂整理后，面料免烫性可达3.5级，甲醛含量＜20ppm，使得面料手感滑爽柔软，穿着健康舒适。
Description
技术领域
本发明本属于面料免烫技术领域，具体涉及一种天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺。
背景技术
天丝纤维是一种人造纤维素纤维，生产过程环保无污染，并且性能优良，备受关注。其具有独特的柔软光滑手感，吸湿透气性好，被称之为“会呼吸的纤维”。但天丝织物在应用于服饰面料时易起皱，洗后缩率大，影响穿着。
中国专利CN101363158，公开时间为2009.02.11。公开了一种天丝、棉混纺织物的染整工艺，先对织物进行两正一反的烧毛，再进行退煮漂处理，然后采用直辊丝光机进行直辊丝光，再进行连续平幅轧染，然后通过水洗除去织物的浮色和表面活性剂进行免烫整理，最后采用机械力作用进行柔软整理。但其工艺较为复杂，免烫功能较差，不利于工业化生产。
中国专利CN109736067A，公开时间为2019.05.10。公开了一种棉天丝交织色织裤料后焙烘整理方法，将棉型裤料送入到可调烧毛机构中进行烧毛，然后进行退浆以及丝光处理，将棉型裤料送入到液氨整理机中进行整理，然后将棉型裤料送入到定型机构中进行定型，送入到预缩机构中进行预缩，制成裤料，经裤料焙烘得到最终的棉型裤料成品。但其手感较差，多次水洗后穿着不舒适。
综上，现有技术可以实现对天丝面料进行免烫处理，但存在生产工艺复杂，免烫效果较差，多次水洗后手感差的问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，不仅可以解决现有技术中所存在的免烫性差，甲醛高的问题，而且能够实现天丝面料免烫性3.5级，甲醛含量小于20ppm，提升天丝织物的质量和档次。
本发明所采取的技术方案是：
天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，生产工序包括烧毛、退浆、丝光、预柔软、潮交联、潮交联水洗、拉幅。
所述的丝光工序中，烧碱浓度为8-10波美度，碱温度为25-35℃，采用双浸双轧，绷布滚筒丝光。
所述的丝光工序，采用布铗丝光机，车速为50-60m/min，浸碱时间为40-50s。
所述的丝光工序，采用水洗槽水洗加HAC中和，pH为5-7.5。
天丝面料进行快速的低碱丝光，可以使得纤维得到充分的溶胀，而又不会受到损伤，极大地增强了面料的尺寸稳定性和形态稳定性。经过丝光后，纤维饱满圆润，面料屈曲度增大，增强了天丝面料对潮交联树脂的带液率，从而提升面料的免烫性能。
所述的潮交联工序中，所用料液的用量为，树脂助剂HM:200-220g/L，树脂催化剂LRMC：100-110g/L，纤维保护剂SF-P:20g/L-25g/L，硅油柔软剂SEH-02:20g/L-30g/L，混合后的料液pH为1.1-1.3。
选用的树脂助剂HM与树脂催化剂LRMC，可以有效提升面料免烫性，并且整理后甲醛含量低；两性纤维保护剂SF-P用于潮交联溶液，能够大幅度改善面料的撕破强力；弱阳离子亲水硅油柔软剂SHE-02，增强吸湿性能并且好，提升天丝面料的含湿率和对潮交联料液的吸附，并保持料液的PH在1.1-1.3，促进树脂助剂HM与树脂催化剂LRMC反应，使面料的免烫性得到提升。
所述的潮交联工序，在拉幅机上进行，轧余率60-70％，烘房温度为0-90℃，分为8组：0℃，0℃，70℃，70℃，80℃，80℃，90℃，90℃，风量为上风量70，下风量60，落布湿度为5.5-6.5％，落布温度为35-40℃，由以上条件来控制车速。在以上烘房温度、风量的限定条件下，设备根据落布实时测得的湿度数据与要求的范围来调整当前的车速。
所述的拉幅工序所用料液为：硅油柔软剂DR-6006:10-30g/L，甲醛捕捉剂CFF:30g/L。
所述的拉幅工序中：车速为70-90m/min，烘房温度为100-130℃。
本发明烧毛、退浆、预柔软、潮交联水洗均采用本领域常规工艺与条件。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果如下：
(1)本天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺简单，可实现大规模连续化生产；
(2)通过对面料进行处理，大大地提高了面料的免烫性，同时又保证手感柔软顺滑，甲醛含量＜20ppm，穿着健康舒适，绿色环保，提升了面料的质量和档次。
具体实施方式
以下结合实施例对本发明做进一步阐述，但其并不限制本发明的实施。
实施例和对比例所用的原料：
检测方法：
1、面料免烫性通过AATCC 124-2018t方法测试；
2、甲醛含量通过JIS L1041:2011/8.1.4B方法测试；
3、面料纬向断裂强力通过ASTM D5035-11(2019)方法测试；
4、撕破强力通过ASTM D1424-21方法测试。
实施例1
选用深蓝色面料，组织为平纹，经纬向纱支均为纯粘胶50支单纱，经向密度为130根/英寸，纬向密度为80根/英寸。
(1)面料经烧毛、退浆后，进行丝光；
(2)丝光：在布铗丝光机，烧碱浓度为8波美度，碱温度为29℃，双浸双轧，绷布滚筒丝光，车速为55m/min，浸碱时间为45s，经水洗槽水洗加HAC中和，落布pH在6.2；
(3)面料经预柔软后，进行潮交联；
潮交联：树脂助剂HM:200g/L，树脂催化剂LRMC：100g/L，纤维保护剂SF-P:20g/L，硅油柔软剂SEH-02：20g/L，料液PH为1.3。在拉幅机上进行，轧余率60％，烘房温度分为8组：0℃，0℃，70℃，70℃，80℃，80℃，90℃，90℃，风量为上风量70，下风量60，落布湿度为6.0％，落布温度为38℃，车速为40m/min；
(4)面料经过潮交联水洗后，进行拉幅；
(5)拉幅：硅油柔软剂DR-6006为15g/L，甲醛捕捉剂CFF为30g/L，车速为80m/min，烘房温度为120℃；
成品面料各项测试指标为：面料免烫性3.6级，甲醛含量＜20ppm，面料纬向断裂强力199N，撕破强力20.16N，手感对比改进前更加柔软滑爽。
实施例2
选用经向蓝色，纬向白色面料，组织为2/2斜纹，经纬向纱支均为纯粘胶50支单纱，经向密度为140根/英寸，纬向密度为100根/英寸。
(1)面料经烧毛、退浆后，进行丝光；
(2)丝光：在布铗丝光机，烧碱浓度为10波美度，碱温度为30℃，双浸双轧，绷布滚筒丝光，车速为60m/min，浸碱时间为40s，经水洗槽水洗加HAC中和，落布pH在5.9；
(3)面料经预柔软后，进行潮交联；
潮交联：树脂助剂HM：220g/L，树脂催化剂LRMC：110g/L，纤维保护剂SF-P：20g/L，硅油柔软剂SEH-02：20g/L，料液PH值控制在1.1，在拉幅机上进行，轧余率60％，烘房温度分为8组：0℃，0℃，70℃，70℃，80℃，80℃，90℃，90℃，风量为上风量70，下风量60，落布湿度为5.5％，落布温度为38℃，车速为35m/min；
(4)面料经过潮交联水洗后，进行拉幅；
(5)拉幅：硅油柔软剂DR-6006:20g/L，甲醛捕捉剂CFF:30g/L，车速：90m/min，烘房温度：130℃。
成品面料各项测试指标为：面料免烫性3.7级，甲醛含量＜18ppm，面料纬向断裂强力180.9N，撕破强力15.45N，手感柔软滑爽。
对比例1
选用深蓝色面料，组织为平纹，经纬向纱支均为纯粘胶50支单纱，经向密度为130根/英寸，纬向密度为80根/英寸。
(1)面料经烧毛、退浆、预柔软后，进行潮交联；
(2)潮交联：树脂助剂HM:200g/L，树脂催化剂LRMC：100g/L，纤维保护剂SF-P:20g/L，料液PH值控制在1.3.在拉幅机上进行，轧余率60％，烘房温度分为8组：0℃，0℃，70℃，70℃，80℃，80℃，90℃，90℃，风量为上风量70，下风量60，落布湿度:8.0％，落布温度30℃，车速50m/min；
(3)面料经过潮交联水洗后，进行拉幅；
拉幅：渗透剂WA-M：3g/L，甲醛捕捉剂CFF:30g/L，车速：80m/min，烘房温度：70℃；
(4)成品面料各项测试指标为：面料免烫性2.9级，甲醛含量＜38ppm，面料纬向断裂强力240N，撕破强力34N，手感硬挺发涩。
上述内容对本发明实施例所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升的加工工艺，进行了详细介绍，以上实施例仅为本发明一部分实施，不是对本发明的限定。任何依据本发明的思想，在具体实施方式及应用范围上做出的改变皆属于本发明的保护范围。
Claims (8)
1.一种天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，生产工序包括烧毛、退浆、丝光、预柔软、潮交联、潮交联水洗、拉幅；
所述的潮交联工序中，使用了树脂助剂和树脂催化剂。
2.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的丝光工序中，烧碱浓度为8-10波美度，碱温度为25-35℃，采用双浸双轧，绷布滚筒丝光。
3.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的丝光工序，采用布铗丝光机，车速为50-60m/min，浸碱时间为40-50s。
4.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的丝光工序，采用水洗槽水洗加HAC中和，落布pH为5-7.5。
5.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的潮交联工序中，所用料液的用量为，树脂助剂HM:200-220g/L，树脂催化剂LRMC：100-110g/L，纤维保护剂SF-P:20g/L-25g/L，硅油柔软剂SEH-02:20g/L-30g/L，混合后的料液pH为1.1-1.3。
6.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的潮交联工序，在拉幅机上进行，轧余率为60-70％，烘房温度为0-90℃，风量为上风量70，下风量60，落布湿度为5.5-6.5％，落布温度为35-40℃。
7.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的拉幅工序所用料液的用量为：硅油柔软剂DR-6006:10-30g/L，甲醛捕捉剂CFF:30g/L-35g/L。
8.根据权利要求1所述的天丝色织面料免烫性提升工艺，其特征在于，所述的拉幅工序中：车速为70-90m/min，烘房温度为100-130℃。
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