CN115337239A

CN115337239A - Essential oil with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115337239A
Application number: CN202211051879.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 任巍; 王正亚; 陈珍娟
Original assignee: Guangzhou Yanzhi Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Yanzhi Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-08-31
Filing date: 2022-08-31
Publication date: 2022-11-15
Anticipated expiration: 2042-08-31
Also published as: CN115337239B

Abstract

The invention discloses essence oil with the effects of relieving and repairing, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.01 to 1 percent of Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract; 0.1 to 2 percent of corydalis tuber extract; 2-20% of cowberry seed oil; 0.5 to 3.5 percent of rapeseed oil; 1 to 50 percent of jojoba seed oil; 5 to 50 percent of butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate; 2 to 20 percent of hydrogenated olive oil ethylhexyl ester; 1 to 50 percent of squalane; 0.5 to 5 percent of tocopherol acetate; 10 to 80 percent of cetyl ethyl hexanoate; 5 to 50 percent of caprylic/capric triglyceride. According to the invention, the basic oil with a specific content is matched with the active ingredients with a specific content, and the components interact with each other to realize synergistic interaction, so that the prepared essential oil can treat both symptoms and root causes of allergic skin, can inhibit inflammatory reaction on the symptoms, reduce nerve sensitivity, relieve the discomfort symptom of the sensitive skin in time, repair skin barriers on the basis of treatment, enhance the resistance of the skin and restore the skin to a normal state.

Description

Essential oil with relieving and repairing effects and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to essence oil with relieving and repairing effects and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Skin allergy is a very common form of allergy. Skin allergies are also known as allergic skin. One of the major characteristics of allergic skin is itching. Medically, skin allergy mainly refers to skin allergy symptoms such as red swelling, itching, desquamation, allergic dermatitis and the like when skin is subjected to various irritations such as adverse reactions of cosmetics, chemicals, pollen, certain foods, polluted air and the like. Skin allergic reactions caused by various additives such as perfumes, pigments, preservatives, surface active substances and the like in cosmetics have been increasing in recent years; in addition, environmental pollution, high working pressure, endocrine disorders, etc. are also sensitizing more and more women's skin. Sensitive skin patients generally subjectively believe that the skin is sensitive, with subjective symptoms such as burning, stinging, itching, with or without facial erythema, desquamation, dryness, tightness, etc. Aiming at the relaxation and repair of sensitive muscles, some products are quick and convenient, blindly pursue low cost, and hormone medicines are illegally added into the products to the cosmetics, so that more people develop the hormone-dependent dermatitis. Therefore, there is an urgent need for safe and effective products that can repair sensitive muscle or hormone-dependent dermatitis by consumers.

The development of sensitive skin is currently considered by studies to be a complex process involving the skin barrier-neurovascular-immunoinflammation. Under the interaction of internal and external causes, the barrier function of the skin is damaged, so that sensory nerve afferent signals are increased, the reactivity of the skin to external stimulation is enhanced, and skin immune inflammatory response is initiated; impaired skin barrier leads to diminished nerve terminal protection, increased sensory nerve reactivity, and susceptibility to adverse sensations such as itching, stinging, burning, etc. At present, many products for relieving and repairing in the market contain water, but when skin has wound or tissue fluid seeps out, the use of cosmetics containing water is not beneficial to wound healing and repairing; and many anti-allergic cosmetics on the market only aim at a certain immunoreaction source in the organism to achieve the anti-allergic effect, such as: the anti-histamine cosmetic has the advantages that the anti-allergy and anti-allergy effects are achieved by adding ingredients such as oat alkaloid, chitin and the like into a plurality of cosmetics in the market, the mechanism of the product is not comprehensive enough, and the anti-histamine cosmetic is hardly suitable for most people with allergic skin. And most antiallergic products do not effectively address the discomfort caused by nerve signal transduction, and the burning sensation and pain sensation of the consumers are not reduced, and the consumers need to wait for the symptoms to be relieved after using for a period of time to obtain the reduction of the pain sensation.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, in order to overcome the defects in the prior art, the primary object of the present invention is to provide an essential oil with soothing and repairing effects, the essential oil of the present invention uses a non-aqueous component to form an oil film on the surface of the skin, such that the evaporation of the moisture of the internal skin can be prevented, the skin can be prevented from being damaged again due to the pollution of the external environment, and the skin healing is accelerated.

The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the essential oil with the functions of relieving and repairing.

The technical problem of the invention is solved by the following technical scheme:

the essence oil with the effects of relieving and repairing comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

in some embodiments of the present invention, the essential oil with soothing and repairing effects comprises the following components by weight:

in some embodiments of the invention, the active molecule indirubin content of the Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract is up to 7wt%; wherein the Polygonum tinctorium in the Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract is an annual herb of Polygonum of Polygonaceae. Distributed in japan, india, europe, china, etc. The Polygonum tinctorium is a raw material of blue dye of main natural plants in some regions, and a great amount of Polygonum tinctorium is used by minority nationalities such as Miao, dong, yao, buyi and the like to process tie-dyeing and wax-dyeing national artware and the like. In addition, polygonum tinctorium is also a commonly used medicinal plant, she Youqing with heat-clearing and detoxicating effects. The Polygonum tinctorium used in the invention is planted in European organic farms, manually picked and harvested, extracted by natural vegetable oil, and extracted by an ecological green extraction technology to obtain a Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract, is safe and free of organic solvents, can close an alarm system of sensitive muscles, protect keratinocytes from being damaged by ultraviolet rays, reduce 1L-1 alpha skin alarm signals to reduce inflammatory reaction, and relieve skin; also has stable natural color, and gives the product a beautiful appearance.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the content of alkaloid extracted from corydalis tuber extract by separation is more than or equal to 99wt%; wherein the rhizoma corydalis extract is a perennial herb of corydalis genus of corydalis of Papaveraceae. The corydalis tuber extract used by the invention is extracted from the tuber of corydalis dentata, and the high-concentration effective components contained in the corydalis tuber extract can regulate and control the activity of TRPV1 neuroreceptors, quickly recover the calcium flux of sensitive skin to a normal level, and reduce the burning sensation and stabbing pain sensation of the sensitive skin.

In some embodiments of the invention, the cranberry seed oil is passed through the CO ₂ The content of omega-3 and omega-6 which are necessary for human bodies is obtained by supercritical extraction and reaches up to 20 percent by weight; wherein the cowberry fruit of the cowberry fruit seed oil is mainly distributed in hilly wasteland and shrub of central Europe and northern Europe, and is wild-grown in uncontaminated northern Europe forest, different from blueberryIts fruit is not strung, but is only single, or rarely geminate. Cranberries are juicy, smaller and darker than blueberries. The blueberry pulp is purple due to the higher anthocyanin content, but the blueberry pulp is green. Cranberry fruits are difficult to pick. In fact, they most require hand picking because they are susceptible to mechanical damage from the picking rake. Cranberry seed constitutes about 5% of the fruit, cranberry seed oil constitutes about 20% of fresh seed, cranberry is one of the best sources of alpha-linolenic acid, seed contains a variety of polyunsaturated fatty acids, and is an important source of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids (essential PUFAs): omega-3 and omega-6 and oleic acid; cranberry seed oil also has an excellent omega-6/omega-3 ratio compared to other sources of polyunsaturated fatty acids, has soothing effects and improves skin hydration and barrier integrity.

In some embodiments of the invention, the rapeseed oil comprises oleic acid in a proportion of 50-60wt%, linoleic acid in a proportion of 18-22wt%, alpha-linolenic acid in a proportion of 10-14wt%, saturated fatty acids in a proportion of 6-8wt%; wherein, the rapeseed oil can cool blood, expel toxin, diminish inflammation and protect skin. Has good treatment effect on scald, rubella, eczema and various skin pruritus.

In some embodiments of the present invention, jojoba in the jojoba seed oil is a native plant of mexican, is planted globally, is most suitable for growth at the mei-mi interface, and has good quality. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester, has a unique chemical structure, is highly similar to lipid of human body, and has a chemical structure different from triglyceride structure of most vegetable oils, so that it has excellent non-occlusive property, non-stickiness, high oxidation resistance, extreme lubrication and high temperature resistance, and is especially suitable for sensitive skin.

In some embodiments of the invention, the butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is derived from coconut oil or palm oil, is colorless, odorless, has an ultra-low viscosity, gives a soft, oil-free feel to the skin, is easily absorbed, and is used for sensitive muscle care.

In some embodiments of the invention, the hydrogenated ethylhexyl olive oleate is a cosmetic common base oil, safe, non-irritating, and light in skin feel.

In some embodiments of the invention, squalane is a lipid closest to human sebum and has high affinity to integrate with the human body's own sebum membrane, forming a natural barrier on the skin surface. Is common oil in cosmetics.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the tocopherol acetate is a common antioxidant in cosmetics, and can moisten and protect skin.

In some embodiments of the invention, the cetyl ethylhexanoate is a cosmetic common base oil, which is safe, non-irritating, and light in skin feel.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the caprylic/capric triglyceride is an excellent moisturizing oil, has good spreadability, gives the skin a slippery but not greasy feel, is easily absorbed by the skin, and is a basic oil commonly used in cosmetics.

In addition, the invention also discloses a preparation method of the essential oil with the effects of relieving and repairing, which comprises the following steps:

mixing the Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract, the corydalis tuber extract, the bilberry seed oil, the rapeseed oil, the jojoba seed oil, the butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, the hydrogenated olive oil ethylhexyl oleate, the squalane, the tocopherol acetate, the cetyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate and the caprylic/capric triglyceride according to the proportion at room temperature, and uniformly stirring to obtain the essential oil with the effects of relieving and repairing.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

1) The invention adopts the basic oil with specific content (jojoba seed oil, butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, hydrogenated olive oil ethylhexyl oleate, squalane, tocopherol acetate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate and caprylic/capric triglyceride), namely a layer of oil film can be formed on the surface of the skin by using the water-free component, so that the moisture of the internal skin can be prevented from evaporating, the skin can be prevented from being damaged again due to the pollution of the external environment, and the healing of the skin is accelerated; the active ingredients (the Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract, the corydalis tuber extract, the bilberry seed oil and the rapeseed oil) with specific contents are matched, and the components interact with each other to realize synergistic interaction, so that the prepared essential oil can treat both symptoms and root causes of allergic skin, can inhibit inflammatory reaction on the symptoms, reduce nerve sensitivity, relieve discomfort symptoms of the sensitive skin in time, and repair skin barriers on the basis of treatment; the essential oil has excellent effects of easing pain, relieving itching and repairing, relieves the pain and burning feeling of skin, has the effect of repairing the barrier function of the skin, is excellent essential oil for sensitive skin and sensitive skin, particularly for damaged skin with exudation of tissue fluid, can reduce the loss of water of the damaged skin, avoids secondary infection caused by contact with external water sources, quickly reduces allergic symptoms, and quickly restores the skin to a normal state.

2) The invention proves the effectiveness of the essence oil prepared by the invention through a large number of experiments, each component has irreplaceability, the addition range of the essence oil is also an optimal range, and the addition range is an optimal range in terms of effect and cost. In conclusion, the essential oil disclosed by the invention is economic and effective light essential oil with the effects of relieving and repairing.

Detailed Description

FIG. 1 shows the skin redness of volunteers at 0, 24 and 48 hours after using example 3 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 shows the skin reddening conditions of the volunteers at 0 hour, 24 hours, and 48 hours after the application of comparative example 7 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further described in detail below with reference to specific examples, which are provided for illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. The test methods used in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the materials, reagents and the like used are, unless otherwise specified, commercially available reagents and materials.

Active ingredients: polygonum tinctorium leaf extract: BLUSH oetactif from halstar bauty AND persinal CARE soluble compositions;

corydalis tuber extract: corydalis yanhusuo extract from Guangzhou Yankee Biotech Co;

bilberry seed oil: omega from Givaudan;

rapeseed oil: BLUSH Ol θ ctif derived from HALSTAR BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE SOLUTION COMPANY;

base grease: jojoba seed oil: JD Jojiba Golden Oil from JOJOBA DESERT (a.c.s) LTD;

butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate: MIGLYOL 8810 from IOI;

hydrogenated olive oil ethyl hexyl oleate: plantasens Olive LD from Craine chemical;

squalane: OLIVE SQUALANE from EMPRESA FIGUEIRENSE DE PESCA, LDA;

tocopherol acetate: DL-A-Tocophyyl Acetate from DSM;

cetyl ethylhexanoate: CEH 100KC from KCI LIMITED;

caprylic/capric triglyceride: PALMESTER 3575 from KLK-OLEO (KLANG) SDN BHD.

Examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 7: preparation of essence oil with relieving and repairing effects

The essential oil with the relieving and repairing effects is obtained by mixing the polygonum tinctorium leaf extract, the corydalis tuber extract, the bilberry seed oil, the rapeseed oil, the jojoba seed oil, the butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, the hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate oleate, the squalane, the tocopherol acetate, the cetyl ethylhexanoate and the caprylic/capric triglyceride at room temperature according to the mixture ratio in the table 1 and uniformly stirring.

TABLE 1

Description of the drawings:

1. comparative example 1 is the essential oil obtained by removing the Polygonum tinctorium leaf extract from the essential oil of example 2 of the invention;

2. comparative example 2 is the essential oil obtained by removing the corydalis tuber extract from the essential oil of example 2 of the present invention;

3. comparative example 3 is the essential oil obtained by removing the cranberry seed oil from the essential oil of example 2 of the present invention;

4. comparative example 4 is the essential oil obtained by removing the rapeseed oil from the essential oil of example 2 of the present invention;

5. comparative example 5 is a blank serum obtained by removing active ingredients from the essence oil of the present invention.

6. Comparative example 6 is an essential oil obtained by removing active ingredients from the essential oil of example 1 of the present invention and replacing them with ceramide.

7. Comparative example 7 is a commercially available essential oil declared to have soothing repairs.

Verification of soothing and repairing efficacy of essential oils described in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-7

Efficacy testing method

1. Testing an instrument:

1. the invention uses a finland Delfin vapoMeter SWL5201 percutaneous water loss measuring instrument, and the vapoMeter uses a closed cavity measuring principle, so that the measurement is not influenced by indoor air flow. The measurement time is short, ensuring the minimum of the blockage of normal evaporation.

2. Photographs were taken using Delfin antra 3D, finland, the antra 3D using innovative optical methods and complex mathematical algorithms to acquire three-dimensional images. This allows data to be extracted from the image relating to the three-dimensional shape of the skin, which will enable quantification of the effect of the treatment and monitoring of the situation over time. For example, the texture, smoothness of the skin, and depth and width of fine lines and wrinkles are measured. With its multispectral analysis, the ant software can also measure pigmentation and redness, which will provide meaningful information about sun damage, veins, etc.

2. The experimental principle is as follows:

TEWL value, transdermal water loss (TEWL), measures the change in the vapor pressure of moisture adjacent to the skin surface. TEWL values represent the loss of water from the stratum corneum and are an important criterion for evaluating the barrier function of the stratum corneum. A lower TEWL value of the skin indicates a better barrier function of the skin, whereas the opposite is the worse. The efficacy of the moisturizing and repairing cosmetic can be evaluated by testing the TEWL value of the skin moisture loss, and the method can also be applied to allergic patch test, contact dermatitis, physical therapy, burn and monitoring of new tissues, so as to find out whether the protective function of the skin is damaged or not in time. The unit of TEWL is: g/hm3

3. Testing population:

30 persons in each group, 9 groups in total, and volunteers with the age of 18-60 years according with the experimental requirements.

4. And (3) testing conditions are as follows:

subjects rested for 30 minutes at room temperature 20 ± 2 ℃ and relative humidity 50 ± 10% and were monitored dynamically in real time and were retested for relevant data.

5. The experimental process comprises the following steps:

1. establishment of impaired skin barrier

Injecting 200 μ L + -10 μ L sodium dodecyl sulfate solution 1% (w/w) into the cell, infiltrating the filter paper sheet, applying to the left and right forearm of the subject with hypoallergenic tape, wherein the edge distance between adjacent cells is not less than 3cm, and applying to skin by pressing with palm for 24 hr.

2. Measuring

After removing the spot tester, the subject sits still for 30min in a standard test environment (after the impression disappears), the tester uses Delfin Vapometer to measure TEWL value at the center of each spot test area of the subject, each area is measured, the measurement result is expressed as the average value of TEWL values of three spot test areas, and the initial value is (TEWL) ₀ ) (ii) a Photographing each spot test area of the subject by using a Delfin Antera3D camera, analyzing by using an instrument, and setting the average value of the measurement of the three spot test areas as an initial value of the RED-flushing as RED ₀ ；

The subject randomly smears the embodiment in one area and does not smear the product in the other area on the left arm according to the use requirement; and randomly coating a comparison example on one area of the right arm, not coating the product on the other area, performing return visit at the time of 24h and 48h, entering a test room for rest 30 minutes ahead, and repeating the test step of T0.

6. The experimental results are as follows:

skin transdermal water loss Rate (TEWL) test

The test sets the subject's measured TEWL at week 0 to the TEWL ₀ And the TEWL after 48 hours was set to TEWL ₁ The TEWL variation is delta TEWL, delta TEWL = TEWL ₁ -TEWL ₀ Δ TEWL is negative and the lower the number, the less water loss of the skin after 48 hours, i.e. the better the barrier function of the repaired skin, the healthier the skin, table 1 shows the average Δ TEWL values for each group of 30 persons, as shown in table 2 below:

TABLE 2

The experimental results show that:

from this experimental result, it can be seen in table 2 that:

1. delta TEWL values, example 1, example 3, example 2, example 4, example 5, demonstrate that the compositions of the present invention have a very good effect in reducing the loss of skin moisture and a very good repair of the stratum corneum barrier function over the range of addition levels. In the preferred range of the present invention, the delta TEWL value is much lower than that in the preferred range, i.e., the delta TEWL values of examples 2, 4 and 5 are much smaller than those of examples 1 and 3, thus illustrating that the less moisture is lost, the better the effect of restoring the barrier function of the skin stratum corneum is, and the less the external environment is likely to cause the allergic symptoms to be aggravated when the essential oils added in the preferred range of the present invention are added.

2. From the data of the second, third, fourth and fifth groups, it can be seen that the Δ TEWL value of the essential oil of the present invention, which is arbitrarily removed from any active component, is larger than that of example 2, indicating that the Δ TEWL is larger when any active component of the essential oil of the present invention is removed, and therefore, the function of repairing the barrier of the stratum corneum is weakened, so that the skin is more easily allergic, and the allergic symptoms are aggravated.

3. From the sixth group of data, it can be seen that all active ingredients in the essential oil of the present invention are removed, and only the basic emollient oils are used, and after the skin barrier function is damaged, the basic emollient oils are not well repaired, which indicates that the basic emollient oils can only play a basic moisturizing function, and have little effect on the skin barrier repair, while the active ingredients in the essential oil of the present invention can well restore the stratum corneum barrier function, so that the skin with allergy can be restored to a normal state as soon as possible.

4. From the seventh group of data, it can be seen that the delta TEWL value using the essential oil of the present invention is much smaller than that of the commercial anti-allergy repairing essential oil, thus showing that the function of the composition of the present invention for repairing skin barrier is much greater than that of the commercial product.

5. From the eighth group of data, it can be seen that the Δ TEWL value does not increase much and has no significant difference when the addition amount of the active ingredient of the present invention is reduced within the preferable range, thus demonstrating that the preferable range of the composition of the present invention is a range of maximizing the effect, and the composition of the present invention can very effectively solve the skin moisture loss condition, maintain the stratum corneum barrier function intact, and increase the skin resistance.

6. From the ninth set of data, it can be seen that increasing the amount of the active ingredient of the present invention in the preferred range has a decrease in the Δ TEWL value but no significant decrease, but the increase in the amount of the active ingredient compared to example 3 has no decrease but a significant increase, indicating that the preferred range of the composition of the present invention is a preferred range with the best effect.

7. Test Picture comparison

The comparison between the arm redness image of a part of volunteers using the embodiment of the invention before and after selecting the arm redness image is shown in detail in fig. 1 and fig. 2, and it can be seen from the figure that the reduction of the skin redness is obvious when using the embodiment 3, but not obvious when using the comparative example 7, which shows that the capability of the essence oil of the invention for reducing the skin redness is very excellent, and the essence oil can relieve the skin which is allergic and recover the allergic skin to the normal state as soon as possible.

Claims

1. The essence oil with the effects of relieving and repairing is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

2. the essential oil with soothing and repairing effects according to claim 1, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

3. the essential oil with soothing and rejuvenating effects as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein the content of indirubin, an active molecule, of said extract of leaves of Polygonum tinctorium is up to 7% by weight.

4. The essential oil with soothing and repairing effects as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of alkaloid obtained by separating and extracting the corydalis tuber extract is more than or equal to 99wt%.

5. Essential oil with soothing and rejuvenating effects as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein said cranberry seed oil is passed over CO ₂ The content of omega-3 and omega-6 necessary for human body obtained by supercritical extraction is up to 20wt%.

6. The essential oil with soothing and rejuvenating effects as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2 wherein said rapeseed oil comprises oleic acid in an amount of 50-60wt%, linoleic acid in an amount of 18-22wt%, α -linolenic acid in an amount of 10-14wt%, and saturated fatty acids in an amount of 6-8wt%.

7. A method for preparing the essential oil with soothing and repairing functions as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the following steps: