CN114717721A - Woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114717721A
CN114717721A CN202210409356.5A CN202210409356A CN114717721A CN 114717721 A CN114717721 A CN 114717721A CN 202210409356 A CN202210409356 A CN 202210409356A CN 114717721 A CN114717721 A CN 114717721A
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preparation
warp
fabric
steps
recovery
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Inventor
吕桂娜
刘德铭
倪爱红
田莉莉
翟天泽
黄程程
宋海燕
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D17/00Woven fabrics having elastic or stretch properties due to manner of weaving
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D7/00Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof. The woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric is prepared from cellulose fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers as raw materials, the warp and weft yarn count ranges from 40/2 to 100/2, the twist coefficient range of weft yarns ranges from 500 to 550, the width of gray fabric is more than or equal to 178cm, the warp density ranges from 70 to 100 pieces/inch, the weft density ranges from 60 to 80 pieces/inch, the fabric weave is plain weave or twill weave, and the production process flow is as follows: spinning, shaping, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing. According to the invention, elastic fibers are not required to be added, and the elasticity of the fabric is realized only by reasonably matching the texture structure, the yarn twist, the warp and weft density and the grey cloth width, the prepared fabric has the characteristics of high recovery, high elasticity, comfort, breathability and non-ironing property, the elastic recovery is more than or equal to 65%, the elasticity is more than or equal to 20%, and the application range is wide; the preparation method is low in cost, scientific, reasonable, simple and feasible.

Description

Woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
At present, the elasticity and the resilience of the conventional tatting elastic fabric are realized by adding spandex yarns or other elastic fibers, the spandex yarns are expensive and are not easy to process in weaving, printing and dyeing processing. Meanwhile, the fabric is difficult to have good elasticity and good dimensional stability, the fabric is easy to deform and even has yarn leakage phenomenon, the wearing and the use are influenced, the white spandex yarn can be exposed due to poor coating when being dyed and made into dark color, and the shrinkage and the width of a door can be difficult to control due to the high shrinkage of the spandex yarn when the garment is made.
Chinese patent CN 101613933a discloses a production process of cotton-type natural elastic yarn-dyed fabric, which is characterized in that: the mercerization adopts high alkali concentration of 30-32 baume degrees, and then the alkali-resistant efficient penetrating agent is added, so that the alkali penetrating time is prolonged to 85-95 seconds, the fabric width is high-contracted, and the aim of natural elasticity is fulfilled.
Chinese patent CN 112064337 a discloses a pure cotton natural elastic gauze and its manufacturing method, which is characterized in that: the cotton package twines alkali-soluble filament yarn, and liquid ammonia is handled and is played the effect of shrink design to the gauze, dissolves alkali-soluble filament yarn under alkaline condition, gets rid of through the washing again, and the cotton yarn can present the elasticity helical structure of nature stable to realize the natural elasticity effect, its principle realizes surface fabric elasticity after mainly dissolving filament yarn through liquid ammonia, and the package twines the yarn cost higher.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric, which does not need to be added with elastic fibers, has the characteristics of high recovery, high elasticity, comfort, ventilation and non-ironing, integrates a plurality of advantages, can meet different types of consumption requirements, and has wide application range; the invention also provides a preparation method of the compound, which has low cost, is scientific, reasonable, simple and feasible.
The invention relates to a preparation method of a woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric, which adopts cellulose fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers as raw materials, wherein the warp and weft yarn count range is 40/2-100/2, the twist factor range of weft yarns is 500-550, the width of grey cloth is more than or equal to 178cm, the warp density is 70-100 pieces/inch, the weft density is 60-80 pieces/inch, the fabric weave is plain weave or twill weave, and the production process flow is as follows: spinning, shaping, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing.
Wherein:
the warp and weft yarns adopt a compact spinning mode.
The weft adopts one-time twisting, and dyeing is carried out after the yarn steaming and setting.
The production process flow specifically comprises the following steps:
1. a spinning process: and (3) spinning the warp and weft yarns into 40/2-100/2 yarns by the processes of cotton distribution, opening and picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling, wherein the normal twist coefficient is adopted for the warp yarns, and the twist coefficient of the weft yarns is 500-550.
2. Shaping: and the weft yarns are steamed and shaped by adopting a GKD-160 high-temperature fixing type shaping pot, wherein the shaping temperature is 130 ℃, and the time is 20 min.
3. A dyeing procedure: selecting reactive dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 60-90 ℃.
4. A warping process: the warping speed of the batch warping machine is 500-600 m/min.
5. Sizing: the main technological parameters are that the vehicle speed is 40-50 m/min, the temperature of a slurry tank is 85-90 ℃, the concentration of slurry is 5-7%, the moisture regain is 7-7.5%, the winding tension is 1800-2000N, the pressure of a main grouting roller is 15-18 kN, and the slurry formula mainly comprises modified starch.
6. A reeding process: the method is characterized in that the method is sequentially worn, and each reed is 1-2 in.
7. Weaving: the tension of the air jet loom is 2000-2400N, the leveling time is 290-300 degrees, the height of the back beam is 0-2 grids, and the depth of the back beam is 0-4 grids.
8. A finishing procedure: the process flow comprises singeing, desizing, mercerizing, liquid ammonia, non-ironing, baking, tentering and preshrinking, and the main process parameter is that the non-ironing resin amount is 60-80 g/L.
Preferably, the weft yarn is subjected to cotton distribution, opening picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, sizing, spooling and dyeing.
Preferably, the warp yarns are subjected to cotton distribution, opening picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling, dyeing, warping, slashing and reeding, and then are woven and finished with the weft yarns.
The invention also obtains the woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric prepared by the method.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. according to the invention, by the design of the fabric specification, the width, the weave structure, the selection of yarn twist, the optimized adjustment of fabric tightness and the reasonable configuration of the finishing process, the produced fabric is a natural elastic fabric with comfort, air permeability, high resilience and good elasticity, the elastic recovery is more than or equal to 65 percent, the elasticity is more than or equal to 20 percent, the fabric can replace the conventional fabric containing stretch yarns, and the market space is wide.
2. The fabric inherits the sustainable development concept, does not need to add elastic fiber, reduces the using amount of non-degradable elastic raw materials, and is energy-saving, environment-friendly and degradable.
3. The preparation method of the invention has the advantages of low cost, science, reasonability, simplicity and feasibility.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples so that those skilled in the art may better understand the present invention, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
The raw materials used in the examples were all commercially available except as specifically indicated.
Example 1
The production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps in sequence: cotton distribution, opening picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, sizing, spooling, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing. The raw materials are long stapled cotton (cellulose fiber), compact spun yarns are selected in the warp and weft directions, and the yarn count is 40/2 yarn; the warp density of the fabric is 70 pieces/inch, the weft density is 60 pieces/inch, plain weave is selected, and the width of grey cloth is 180 cm.
The specific process parameters are as follows:
1. spinning: the warp and weft yarns are spun into 40/2 yarns through the processes of cotton distribution, opening and picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling.
Normal warp twist multiplier, weft twist multiplier 541;
2. shaping: and (3) steaming and setting the weft yarns by adopting a GKD-160 high-temperature fixed setting pot, wherein the setting temperature and time are as follows: at 130 ℃ for 20 min;
3. dyeing: adopting reactive dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 90 ℃;
4. warping: a batch warping machine with the warping speed of 600 m/min;
5. sizing: the main technological parameters are the vehicle speed of 40m/min, the temperature of a pulp tank of 86 ℃, the pulp concentration of 5 percent, the moisture regain of 7.0 percent, the winding tension of 2000N, the pressure of a main squeezing roller of 18kN, and the formula of the pulp mainly adopts modified starch.
6. Reeding: the method adopts the sequential penetration, and each reed is 1;
7. weaving: the loom tension is 2000N, the heald time is 290 degrees, the height of the back beam is 0 lattice, and the depth of the back beam is 1 lattice;
8. finishing: the process flow comprises singeing, desizing, mercerizing, liquid ammonia, easy care, baking, tentering and preshrinking, and the main process parameter is that the amount of resin adopted for easy care is 80 g/L.
9. The main indexes of the fabric are shown in Table 1, and the elasticity is tested by the test method of ASTM D3107-07 (2015).
TABLE 1 Main indices of the fabrics
Figure BDA0003603100640000031
Example 2
The production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps in sequence: cotton distribution, opening picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, sizing, spooling, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing. The raw material is Lyocell (regenerated cellulose fiber), compact spun yarns are selected in the warp and weft directions, and yarn count is 100/2 yarn; the warp density of the fabric is 110 pieces/inch, the weft density is 90 pieces/inch, plain weave is selected, and the width of grey cloth is 179 cm.
The specific process parameters are as follows:
1. spinning: the warp and weft yarns are spun into 100/2 yarns through the processes of cotton distribution, opening and picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling.
Normal warp twist multiplier, weft twist multiplier 523;
2. shaping: GKD-160 high-temperature solid type shaping pot, shaping temperature and time are as follows: at 130 ℃ for 20 min;
3. dyeing: adopting reactive dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 60 ℃;
4. warping: a batch warping machine with the warping speed of 500 m/min;
5. sizing: the main technological parameters are 50m/min of vehicle speed, 88 ℃ of slurry tank temperature, 6.5% of slurry concentration, 7.5% of moisture regain, 1800N of winding tension and 16kN of main pressure roller, and the slurry formula mainly comprises modified starch.
6. Reeding: the method adopts the sequential penetration, and each reed is 2;
7. weaving: the loom tension of the air jet loom is 2200kN, the leveling time is 290 degrees, the height of the back beam is 2 grids, and the depth of the back beam is 4 grids;
8. finishing: the process flow comprises singeing, desizing, mercerizing, liquid ammonia, easy care, baking, tentering and preshrinking, and the main process parameter is that the amount of resin adopted for easy care is 70 g/L.
9. The main indexes of the fabric are shown in Table 2, and the elasticity is tested by the ASTM D3107-07 (2015).
TABLE 2 Main indexes of fabrics
Figure BDA0003603100640000041
Comparative example 1
The production process flow of the fabric comprises the following steps in sequence: cotton distribution, opening picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, sizing, spooling, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing. The raw material is long stapled cotton, compact spun yarns are selected in the warp and weft directions, and yarn counts are 100/2 yarns; the warp density of the fabric is 110 pieces/inch, the weft density is 90 pieces/inch, plain weave is selected, and the width of the grey cloth is 163 cm.
The specific process parameters are as follows:
1. spinning: the warp and weft yarns are spun into 100/2 yarns through the processes of cotton distribution, opening and picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling.
Normal twist coefficient of warp and weft yarns;
2. dyeing: adopting reactive dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 60 ℃;
3. warping: a batch warping machine, wherein the warping speed is 550 m/min;
4. sizing: the main technological parameters are 50m/min of vehicle speed, 88 ℃ of slurry tank temperature, 6.5% of slurry concentration, 7.5% of moisture regain, 1800N of winding tension and 16kN of main pressure roller, and the slurry formula mainly comprises modified starch.
5. Reeding: the method adopts the sequential penetration, and each reed is 2;
6. weaving: the loom tension of the air jet loom is 2400kN, the leveling time is 300 degrees, the height of the back beam is 2 grids, and the depth of the back beam is 4 grids;
7. finishing: the process flow comprises singeing, desizing, mercerizing, liquid ammonia, easy care, baking, tentering and preshrinking, and the main process parameter is that the amount of resin adopted for easy care is 60 g/L.
8. The main indexes of the fabric are shown in Table 3, and the elasticity is tested by the ASTM D3107-07(2015) test method.
TABLE 3 Main indices of the Fabric
Figure BDA0003603100640000051
The present invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments. The particular embodiments described above are illustrative only and not limiting. The invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, but may be modified in many ways within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A preparation method of a woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the raw materials are cellulose fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, the warp and weft yarn count ranges from 40/2 to 100/2, the twist factor range of weft yarns ranges from 500 to 550, the width of gray fabric is more than or equal to 178cm, the warp density is 70 to 100 pieces/inch, the weft density is 60 to 80 pieces/inch, the fabric weave is plain weave or twill weave, and the production process flow is as follows: spinning, shaping, dyeing, warping, sizing, denting, weaving and finishing.
2. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the warp and weft yarns adopt a compact spinning mode.
3. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the weft adopts one-time twisting, and dyeing is carried out after the yarn steaming and setting.
4. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: a spinning process: and (3) spinning the warp and weft yarns into 40/2-100/2 yarns by the processes of cotton distribution, opening and picking, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling, wherein the normal twist coefficient is adopted for the warp yarns, and the twist coefficient of the weft yarns is 500-550.
5. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: shaping: and the weft yarns are steamed and shaped by adopting a GKD-160 high-temperature fixing type shaping pot, wherein the shaping temperature is 130 ℃, and the time is 20 min.
6. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: a dyeing procedure: selecting reactive dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 60-90 ℃; a warping process: the warping speed of the batch warping machine is 500-600 m/min.
7. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: sizing: the main technological parameters are that the vehicle speed is 40-50 m/min, the temperature of a slurry tank is 85-90 ℃, the concentration of slurry is 5-7%, the moisture regain is 7-7.5%, the winding tension is 1800-2000N, the pressure of a main grouting roller is 15-18 kN, and the slurry formula mainly comprises modified starch.
8. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: a reeding process: the method comprises the following steps of sequentially penetrating 1-2 parts per reed; weaving: the tension of the air jet loom is 2000-2400N, the leveling time is 290-300 degrees, the height of the back beam is 0-2 grids, and the depth of the back beam is 0-4 grids.
9. The preparation method of the woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: a finishing procedure: the process flow comprises singeing, desizing, mercerizing, liquid ammonia, non-ironing, baking, tentering and preshrinking, and the main process parameter is that the non-ironing resin amount is 60-80 g/L.
10. A woven high-recovery natural elastic fabric is characterized in that: prepared by the preparation method of any one of claims 1 to 9.
CN202210409356.5A 2022-04-19 2022-04-19 Woven high-recovery natural stretch fabric and preparation method thereof Pending CN114717721A (en)

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Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103526391A (en) * 2013-09-26 2014-01-22 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Nice and cool purified cotton yarn dyed fabric manufacturing process
CN104404679A (en) * 2014-11-19 2015-03-11 常熟市天辰针织有限公司 Preparation method of home textile fabric
CN104790093A (en) * 2015-04-15 2015-07-22 圣华盾服饰有限公司 Antibacterial comfortable anti-static compound function fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN113249847A (en) * 2021-05-28 2021-08-13 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Light, thin and comfortable non-ironing home wear fabric and production process thereof

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103526391A (en) * 2013-09-26 2014-01-22 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Nice and cool purified cotton yarn dyed fabric manufacturing process
CN104404679A (en) * 2014-11-19 2015-03-11 常熟市天辰针织有限公司 Preparation method of home textile fabric
CN104790093A (en) * 2015-04-15 2015-07-22 圣华盾服饰有限公司 Antibacterial comfortable anti-static compound function fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN113249847A (en) * 2021-05-28 2021-08-13 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Light, thin and comfortable non-ironing home wear fabric and production process thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
张勇等: ""高档纯棉色织免烫衬衫面料的开发"", 《辽东学院学报(自然科学版)》 *

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