CN114517354A - Double knit upper including functional tuck-in yarns - Google Patents

Double knit upper including functional tuck-in yarns Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114517354A
CN114517354A CN202111359499.1A CN202111359499A CN114517354A CN 114517354 A CN114517354 A CN 114517354A CN 202111359499 A CN202111359499 A CN 202111359499A CN 114517354 A CN114517354 A CN 114517354A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
yarn
layer
double
tuck
element according
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Pending
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CN202111359499.1A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
弗洛林·菲利佩斯库
弗洛里安·普尔格
马蒂亚斯·林茨
弗洛里安·戈登堡
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Adidas AG
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Adidas AG
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/123Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/026Laminated layers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/20Metallic fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043Footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a double-layer knitted element, in particular for sports articles, comprising a first layer comprising a first yarn, a second layer comprising a second yarn, and a third yarn arranged at least partially between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein at least one drop stitch is present between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.

Description

Double knit upper including functional tuck-in yarns
Technical Field
The invention relates to a double-knit element, in particular a sports article, and to a method for producing such a double-knit element.
Background
In order to provide a knit element with desired functional properties (such as stiffness, stretch, recovery or compression properties) by knitting, various manufacturing methods exist.
In particular, stiffness is typically obtained by plating the molten yarn with a base yarn (e.g., polyester) or simply mixing the molten yarn with the base yarn into the same yarn feeder. Another possibility to obtain stiffness is provided by knitting Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) yarns or by knitting hybrid yarns, which represent a blend of polyester and molten yarns. Furthermore, stretch, recovery, or compression properties are typically obtained by nesting (in-lay) covered elastic yarns, by plating or directly blending spandex yarns with base yarns (e.g., natural fiber, rayon, synthetic) into the feeder, or by knitting the covered elastic yarns.
Tuck-in yarns are commonly used on single layer knitted substrates, such as for cashmere fabrics. In these fabrics, the yarns are too thick for conventional knitting and are therefore inserted into the fabric by tucking. Furthermore, the elastic yarns can be used as a nest or even in a tuck float structure for sock knitting, but this use is only applicable to single jersey (single jersey) or single knitted layers.
Accordingly, the present invention is directed to various problems to be solved.
When plating or blending is used to achieve stiffness, the fused yarn follows the same knitting sequence as the base yarn. In addition, since the amount of the molten yarn depends on the knitting structure, it is difficult to control the amount of the molten yarn. Furthermore, if fused yarns are required on only one side of the fabric, the knitting sequence needs to be modified accordingly, which results in a different visual appearance or characteristic of the fabric. When the fused yarn is blended with the base yarn, there is no control over which of the two yarns will appear on the surface of the fabric. Plating molten yarn can ameliorate this disadvantage, but it is often difficult or time consuming to place on a knitting machine. In particular, it is often difficult to adjust plating on knitting machines.
When using elastic yarns as nesting yarns to achieve stretching, recovery or compression, there is always a risk of pulling out the elastic yarn because it is not attached to the fabric. In particular, the nested yarns are only long floats inside the double knit.
The problem to be solved by the present invention is therefore to provide a knitted fabric and a corresponding manufacturing method to achieve enhanced functional properties in the knitted fabric. In particular, it is desirable to create functional properties in a knitted fabric that are independent of the knitting sequence, to avoid the possibility of pulling out nested yarns, to keep the appearance of the fabric unchanged, but with increased functional properties, and/or to activate fused yarns at the target location of the knitted fabric.
US 2017/0029989a1 relates to textile structures formed from fusible filaments. In particular, this document relates to a textile construction in which thermoplastic yarns or fibres are melted to form a fused film on one side or layer of the construction, while the other side or layer is held in a discrete knitted structure. The fused film may provide a film side or layer having desired properties, such as one or more of water resistance, wind resistance, and air permeability.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention is defined by the independent claims.
According to a first aspect, the above-mentioned problem is solved by a double-layer knitted element, in particular for sports articles. The double layer knit element includes a first layer including a first yarn, a second layer including a second yarn, and a third yarn at least partially disposed between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches (tack stitch), wherein at least one miss stitch (miss stitch) exists between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
Typically, the third yarn locks to the fabric due to tucking. In contrast to the tuck-in third yarn of the present invention, the nested strands are free floating within the double layer fabric and can be removed from the knitted fabric if pulled.
The third yarn is independent of the body knitting structure and does not affect it, but further enhances the performance of the knitted fabric. In fact, the tuck stitches visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are extremely simplified, so that they do not significantly affect the surface finish of this knitted layer. In addition, since the third yarn is sandwiched between two layers, additional protection for the third yarn is provided. This means that yarns that fail the test (wear, color shift, etc.) can still be tucked in and provide additional functionality to the double knit element.
The third yarn of the double knit element may comprise a functional yarn. The use of a functional yarn as the third yarn allows to create functional properties in the knitted fabric independently of the knitting sequence.
The first yarn of the first layer and the second yarn of the second layer may be the same type of yarn, but may also be two different types of yarn.
The functional yarn may be at least one of a fused yarn, a Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) yarn, a water repellent yarn (water repellant yarn), a volume/bulked yarn (volume/bulked) yarn, a natural fiber yarn (e.g., wool and cotton), a cellulose yarn, a hybrid yarn, an antimicrobial (antibacterial) yarn (e.g., copper, zinc, silver), an elastic yarn, a conductive yarn, or at least one yarn having at least one of heat resistance, uv resistance, heat retention, moisture absorption, water resistance, chemical resistance, flame retardancy, moisture wicking capability, or at least one yarn having compressive, shrinkage, cushioning, electrical conductivity, insulation, durability characteristics.
Advantageously, by using a functional yarn as the third yarn, different properties can be provided to the double knit element depending on the functionality of the yarn. For example, the stretch, recovery or compression properties of the double knit element may be affected by using an elastic yarn as the functional yarn. On the other hand, stiffness can be obtained by using a melt yarn, a TPU yarn or a hybrid yarn as the functional yarn. For example, a fused or TPU functional yarn may be used to stiffen the heel and toe regions of the upper, where an elastic functional yarn may be used to create stretch or recovery in the instep region or collar of the fabric. Typically, the use of an elastomeric material creates a reinforced region after the application of heat.
Another advantage is that there is no need to plate or blend functional yarns with the base yarn into the yarn feeder or to use nested functional yarns.
The third yarn may be connected to only one of the first and second layers by tuck stitches in the respective layers.
When the third yarn is connected to only one of the first or second layers by using tuck stitches, the third yarn is not visible at the respective other layer. Thus, the appearance of the top of one layer remains intact, with the desired functional properties provided by the third yarn. In addition, the tuck stitches visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are extremely simplified, so they do not significantly affect the surface finish of this knitted layer. In fact, the third yarn is more or less independent of the body knitting structure and does not affect it. More precisely, the tuck stitches visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are extremely simplified, so that they do not significantly affect the surface finish of this knitted layer, while the surface finish of the other knitted layer is not affected at all.
In addition, if the fused yarn is provided between the first and second layers and connected to only one layer, the fused yarn may be activated only on the inner side of one of the two layers. For example, if the molten yarns are connected (tucked) to the back layer, upon thermal activation, the molten yarns will be mostly absorbed by the back layer, but the outside of the front layer may not show any traces of the molten yarns. Thus, further post-treatment of the top side of the fabric can be performed without the need to use/reactivate the molten yarns.
The third yarn may be connected to at least one of the first and second layers by an immediately consecutive (endless) tuck stitch.
The ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitch stitches may vary within a weft stitch or a course.
In particular, the amount of support in the respective areas of the double-layer knitted element can be designed by the tuck-miss ratio. More tucks next to each other will add more yarn in the corresponding area. Varying the tuck-miss ratio of the third yarn in different regions may provide different tensile or stiffness characteristics. In contrast, nested strands will have the same properties along their width.
The ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitch stitches may be at least one of 1:1, 1:2, or 1: 3. A miss stitch means that one needle is skipped in the needle bed and the third yarn floats on the needle between the two tuck stitches. Thus, for example, a tuck-miss ratio of 1:2 means that two needles are skipped and the third yarn floats on those two needles between the two tuck stitches.
In general, the support of the double knit element can be designed by the tuck-miss ratio. More tucks near each other provide a greater amount of third yarn. Thus, a tuck-drop stitch ratio of 1:1 provides greater support than 1:2, with 1:2 providing greater support than 1:3, and so on.
The distance between two successive tuck stitches may be less than 2.54 cm.
Typically, 2.54cm of a needle bed of a knitting machine corresponds to 14 needles on a 14-needle machine (gauge 14machine) or 7 needles on a 7-needle machine (gauge 7machine), wherein the gauge (gauge) of the knitting machine corresponds to the number of needles within 2.54cm (one inch). For safety reasons, the floats are usually kept shorter than 2.54 cm. If the float is longer, there is a risk that the needle cannot catch the yarn.
The first yarn of the first layer may be connected to the second layer and/or the second yarn of the second layer may be connected to the first layer by a tuck or loop stitch.
The third yarn may be knitted at least twice between two rows of knitting. In other words, between two rows of knitting there are knitted at least two loops of the third yarn.
Thus, by knitting the third yarn multiple times between two rows of knitting while maintaining the same tuck-drop ratio, increased support may be provided. For example, knitting the third yarn multiple times between two rows of knitting may be used to increase the stiffness of a particular area of the fabric (e.g., at the heel of the upper).
The third yarn may be partially knitted (partially knitted) between the two rows of knitting.
Partial knitting allows the third yarn to be provided in different amounts in different areas of the double knit element. In particular, when the third yarn is partially knitted a plurality of times between two knitting courses. Thus, depending on the amount of third yarn, different support may be provided in different areas. Thus, by maintaining the same tuck-miss ratio but knitting the third yarn partially in a particular area one or more times, the support provided by the particular area or zone can be designed.
Furthermore, it is technically easier to knit the third yarn locally than to nest the strands. The reason is that the third yarn is connected to the fabric by tucks and does not jump out when the knitting direction changes.
The thickness of the third yarn may vary within the knit element.
By varying the thickness of the third yarn, the support of the double knit element can also be influenced,
the third yarn may be provided in a repeat structure, a jacquard structure, or a spacing-based structure.
Thus, structures such as repeating structures, jacquard structures or spacing-based structures can be designed by using functional yarns, wherein the appearance of at least one layer in the structure remains the same.
The element may be manufactured by intarsia, interlock, plating, reverse plating and/or nesting techniques.
Thus, the present invention can provide various bilayer components having different structural and functional properties.
Another aspect of the invention relates to an upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, comprising a double knit element as described herein.
Another aspect of the invention relates to a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, comprising an upper as described herein, i.e. having a knitted element according to the invention, and a sole connected to the upper.
Accordingly, an upper or shoe is provided that incorporates the beneficial properties of the aforementioned double knit element.
According to another aspect of the invention, a method of manufacturing a double knit element according to one of the preceding aspects is provided. In particular, the method comprises the steps of: providing a first layer comprising a first yarn, providing a second layer comprising a second yarn, and arranging a third yarn at least partially between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one drop stitch between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
Drawings
Hereinafter, aspects of the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. These figures show that:
FIGS. 1A-C: a knitting scheme having a double layer knitting element with two layers and a third tuck-in yarn;
FIG. 2: a knitting scheme having a double layer knit element of two layers and a third tuck-in yarn knitted twice between two rows of knitting;
FIGS. 3A-B: a knitting scheme of a double layer knitting element with two layers and a third tuck-in yarn having a different ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches;
FIG. 4: a knitting scheme of a double knit element having a third tuck-in yarn knitted twice between two rows of cross knitting;
FIG. 5: a knitting scheme of a double-layer knitting element having a jacquard structure and a third tuck-in yarn;
FIGS. 6A-C: a knitting scheme of the double-layer knitted element using different knitting techniques;
FIG. 7: a knitting scheme having spaced double layer knit elements and a third tuck-in yarn;
FIG. 8: a knitting scheme of a double-layer knitting element and a third tuck-in yarn, the third tuck-in yarn having a variable ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches within the same weft loop;
FIG. 9: a knitting scheme of the double layer knitting element and the partially tucked third yarn;
FIGS. 10A-B: a double layer knit element and a knit scheme and cross section using tuck knit technology to knit in a third yarn; and
FIG. 11: a flow chart of the method of manufacturing the double knit element of the present invention is illustrated.
Detailed Description
Embodiments and variants of the invention are described in more detail below with reference to double-layer knitted elements, in particular for sports articles. However, the invention may be used in other ways, for example the invention may be used with uppers, garments or accessories where various functional properties such as stiffness, elasticity, stretch, recovery or compression are required without affecting appearance.
The use of the third tuck-in yarn allows the double knit element to incorporate desired functional characteristics while still having an unaffected appearance. Various functional properties include, for example, stiffness, elasticity, stretch, recovery, or compression. Techniques used to implement these features or functions are described below.
The described techniques include suitable knitting techniques involving different combinations of numbers of tuck and miss stitches of the third yarn, and selection of fibers and yarns. These and other techniques will be explained below before describing embodiments of uppers that apply these techniques.
Fig. 1A-C show knitting schemes of double-layer knitting structures, in which the dots indicate the needle positions of the knitting machine in a row of knitting. In particular, the knitting scheme of fig. 1A-C comprises two rows of needles provided in one row.
Fig. 1A shows a first layer 100 (e.g., a front layer) comprising first yarns 110, a second layer 200 (e.g., a back layer) comprising second yarns 210, and a third yarn 310 disposed at least partially between the first layer 100 and the second layer 200, wherein the third yarn 310 is connected to the second layer 200 by a plurality of tuck stitches 311. In an alternative embodiment, the third yarn 310 may be connected to the first layer 100 by a plurality of tuck stitches. As shown in fig. 1A, there is at least one drop stitch 312 between two consecutive tuck stitches 311 of the third yarn. In the present embodiment, the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitch stitches (corresponding to the tuck-drop stitch ratio) is 1: 1.
Typically, the body double knit structure is independent of the tuck-in yarns. The tuck-in yarn is an addition to the existing structure and is sandwiched between two layers.
Furthermore, fig. 1A shows that the third yarn 310 is connected to the second layer 200 only by the immediately consecutive tuck stitch 311, wherein the third yarn 310 is not connected to the first layer 100.
In one particular embodiment, when using a fused or TPU yarn as the third yarn 310, stiffness may be applied to only one of the two layers.
In another embodiment, stiffness is achieved within the fabric without affecting its appearance.
In one embodiment of the present invention, first yarn 110 and second yarn 210 may be different.
In another embodiment, first yarns 110 and second yarns 210 may be the same.
In the embodiment shown in FIG. 1A, the first layer 100 is connected to the second layer 200 by tuck stitches.
Fig. 1B shows a portion of the face layer 100 of an exemplary double layer knit element comprising a first yarn 110, wherein fig. 1C shows a portion of the back layer 200 comprising a second yarn 210. In fig. 1B and 1C, the fused yarns 310 are connected (tucked) to the back layer 200. In particular, the molten yarns 310 are mostly absorbed by the back layer 200 (and somewhat by the interior side of the front layer 100) after thermal activation. As shown in fig. 1B, no molten yarns 310 are present on the outside of the front layer 100. Thus, the face side of the fabric may be further post-treated without the use or reactivation of the fused yarns 310 beneath the face layer 100. As shown in the example of fig. 1C, the first yarn 110 of the front layer 100 may be connected to the back layer 200 by tuck or stitch stitches.
Typically, the third yarn locks to the fabric due to tucking. In contrast to the tucked-in third yarn of the present invention, the nested strands will float freely within the double layer fabric and can be removed from the knitted fabric if pulled.
Additionally, in various embodiments of the present invention, the third yarn may comprise a functional yarn.
In some embodiments, the functional yarn may be at least one of a fused yarn, a Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) yarn, a water repellent yarn, a bulk/bulked yarn, a natural fiber yarn (e.g., wool and cotton), a cellulose yarn, a hybrid yarn, an antimicrobial (antibacterial) yarn (e.g., copper, zinc, silver), an elastic yarn, an electrically conductive yarn, or at least one yarn having at least one of heat resistance, uv protection, thermal insulation, moisture absorption, water resistance, chemical resistance, flame retardancy, moisture wicking capability, or at least one yarn having compressive, shrinkage, cushioning, electrical conductivity, insulation, durability characteristics.
In particular, the application of knitted conductive yarns may be to heat certain portions of the upper, or LED lights for transmitting electricity into the upper or tool, where wool yarns may heat the upper and cotton yarns may absorb moisture.
Fig. 2 shows an exemplary embodiment in which, by means of the next to successive tuck stitches, the third yarn 310a can be tucked in the first layer 100 in a first knitting step, i.e. on the front stitch (front stitch) from a course 110, and the third yarn 310b can be tucked in the second layer 200 in a second knitting step, i.e. on the back stitch (back stitch) from the previous course 210, not shown here.
Fig. 3A and 3B show knitting schemes with different ratios between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches of the third yarn 310.
As shown in fig. 3A, there are two drop stitches 312 between two consecutive tuck stitches 311 of the third yarn 310, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches 311 and the number of drop stitches 312 is 1: 2. Fig. 3B shows a knitting scheme in which there are three drop stitches 312 between two consecutive tuck stitches 311 of the third yarn 310, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches 311 and the number of drop stitches 312 is 1: 3.
In general, the support (with respect to stiffness or stretch properties) of the double knit element can be designed by tuck-drop stitch ratio. More tucks near each other provide a greater amount of third yarn 310. Thus, a tuck-drop stitch ratio of 1:1 provides greater support than 1:2, with 1:2 providing greater support than 1:3, and so on.
In a specific embodiment, not shown here, the distance between two consecutive tuck stitches may be less than 2.54cm (one inch). In particular, 2.54cm of the bed of the machine corresponds to 14 needles on a 14-needle machine or 7 needles on a 7-needle machine, wherein the gauge of the machine corresponds to the number of needles within 2.54cm, which corresponds to one inch. For safety reasons, the floats are usually kept shorter than 2.54 cm. If the floats are long, there is a risk that the needles cannot catch the yarn.
Further, fig. 3A and 3B provide an example in which the first layer 100 is connected to the second layer 200 by a coil weave. In the embodiment of fig. 3A and 3B, the third yarn 310 is connected to the second layer 200 only by the tuck stitch 311 immediately consecutive, i.e. there is no tuck stitch of the third yarn 310 in the first layer 100.
In other embodiments, the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a tuck stitch. For example, the third yarn 310 may be tucked to the first layer 100 and the second layer 200. In other embodiments, the third yarn may be tucked only to the first layer by the next consecutive tuck stitch.
Fig. 4 shows another embodiment in which the third yarn 310 is knitted at least twice between two rows of knitting. In this embodiment, there are at least two weft loops of the third yarn 310 knitted between two rows of knitting. In particular, the third yarn 310 is knitted in a first knitting sequence 301 (for example tuck-miss to the right) and in a second knitting sequence 302 (miss-tuck to the left), which increases the support of the third yarn 310 on the double-layer knitting element.
Knitting the third yarn 310 multiple times between two rows of knitting can be used, for example, to increase the stiffness of the fabric.
The amount of support can also be designed by using finer or coarser yarns (150 denier to 900 denier). Even 2,000 denier for the fused yarn, knitting even more for socks is possible. In particular, a higher denier means a thicker yarn.
Fig. 4 provides an example in which the first layer 100 is connected to the second layer 200 by a coil weave.
In the embodiment of fig. 4, the third yarn 310 is connected to the second layer 200 only by the next to consecutive tuck stitch 311, and not to the first layer.
In another embodiment, not explicitly shown here, the third yarn 310 may be tucked only to the first layer 100, or to both the first layer 100 and the second layer 200 by using tuck stitches.
Typically, the third yarn is independent of and can be combined with all double knit structures. This means that the structure can remain the same, but the function (tensile/stiffness/conductive yarn) is applied to various locations of the upper.
In some embodiments, the third yarn may be inserted in a repeat structure as shown in fig. 1-4 or in a jacquard structure as shown in fig. 5.
In further embodiments, the tuck-in third yarn may be combined with knitting techniques such as partial knitting, intarsia (area knitting), plating, reverse plating, crocking (Devore), nesting, and the like.
Figures 6A-C show some additional knitting structures using a functional third yarn 310. For example, fig. 6C shows a interlock structure with a third yarn.
In other embodiments, as shown in FIG. 7, a third yarn may also be inserted in the spacing-based structure. In fig. 7, the spacer layer 400 and the third yarn 310 are alternately knitted between two rows of knitting of the first layer 100 and the second layer 200.
Figure 8 shows an embodiment of the invention in which the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches is variable within a weft or course. In particular, the amount of support in different portions (510, 520) within the same course of the knit element can be designed by tuck-drop stitch ratio. In particular, the example of FIG. 8 presents a first portion (510) having a tuck-drop stitch ratio of 1:3 and a second portion (520) having a tuck-drop stitch ratio of 1: 1. More tucks near each other will add more yarn in that particular section.
The variation in the tuck-miss ratio of the third yarn in different regions may provide different tensile or stiffness characteristics in the respective regions. In contrast, nested strands have the same properties along their width.
In some embodiments, the ratio between the number of tuck stitch and the number of drop stitch may be at least one of 1:1, 1:2, or 1: 3.
Figure 9 shows an embodiment in which the third yarn 310 is partially knitted in a specific portion of the row of knitting. In fig. 9, the third yarn 310 is provided once in a first portion 530, wherein the third yarn is provided multiple times (e.g., three times) in another portion 540.
The partial knitting of the third yarn as shown in fig. 9 may provide different support by maintaining the same tuck-drop stitch ratio but knitting a different amount of the third yarn 310 in a particular portion of the row or area of knitting of the double layer element.
Furthermore, it is technically easier to knit the third yarn locally than to nest the strands. The reason is that the third yarn is connected to the fabric by tucks and does not jump out when the knitting direction changes.
Fig. 10A-B depict an embodiment of an effective arrangement of a third yarn 310 in a double layer knit element through the use of intarsia knitting. In general, specific areas can be provided on the knit element by an intarsia design to impart specific characteristics thereto. In the particular embodiment of fig. 10A, the third yarn 310 is knitted multiple times in a portion of the knit element between the front layer 100 and the back layer 200 in a double knit fabric in immediately adjacent consecutive weft loops. In addition, the third yarn 310 is connected to the first layer 100 and the second layer 200 by an alternating tuck-drop stitch.
In a particular embodiment, a third yarn 310 having an elastomeric material may be used to create the reinforced areas after the application of heat. In addition to elastomers, other polymer-based yarns may be used, providing reinforcement upon application of heat, pressure, or other treatment.
In addition, due to the adoption of the knitting method, the materials do not need to be pre-twisted, the manual labor is reduced, and the high-performance shoe upper material can be created.
Fig. 10B shows a section of a double knit element knitted by using an applique in a double knit in which a third yarn 310 is connected to the first layer 100 and the second layer 200 by an alternating tuck-miss stitch. By using tuck stitches of the third yarn 310 for both layers, the third yarn 310 is visible in both layers (e.g., the first layer 100 of FIG. 10B).
In another embodiment, an upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, can be provided, which comprises a double knit element according to the invention.
Furthermore, the shoe, in particular the sports shoe, may comprise an upper, which comprises the double-layered knitted element of the invention, and a sole, which is connected to the upper.
Fig. 11 shows a flow chart illustrating a method of manufacturing a double knit element in accordance with the present invention and as described in more detail above. In step 1110, a first layer comprising a first yarn is provided. In step 1120, a second layer comprising a second yarn is provided. In step 1130, a third yarn is at least partially disposed between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one drop stitch between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.

Claims (17)

1. A double-layered knitted element, in particular for sports articles, comprising:
a. a first layer comprising a first yarn; and
b. a second layer comprising a second yarn; and
c. a third yarn at least partially disposed between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one drop stitch between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
2. The double knit element of claim 1, wherein the third yarn comprises a functional yarn.
3. The double knit element of claim 2, wherein the functional yarn is at least one of a fused yarn, a Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) yarn, a water repellent yarn, a bulk/bulked yarn, a natural fiber yarn, a cellulose yarn, a hybrid yarn, an antimicrobial yarn such as copper, zinc, silver, an elastomeric yarn, a conductive yarn, or at least one yarn having at least one of heat resistance, uv protection, moisture absorption, water resistance, heat retention, chemical resistance, flame resistance, moisture wicking capability, or at least one yarn having compressive, shrinkage, cushioning, electrical conductivity, insulation, durability properties.
4. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the third yarn is connected to only one of the first layer and the second layer by tuck stitches in the respective layer.
5. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by means of an immediately consecutive tuck stitch.
6. Double layer knit element according to one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches is variable within a weft loop or row.
7. Double knit element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of drop stitches is at least one of 1:1, 1:2 or 1: 3.
8. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the distance between two consecutive tuck stitches is less than 2.54 cm.
9. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein a first yarn of the first layer is connected to the second layer by tuck stitch or stitch and/or a second yarn of the second layer is connected to the first layer by tuck stitch or stitch.
10. Double knit element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the third yarn is knit at least twice between two rows of knitting.
11. The double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the third yarn is partially knitted in a specific portion of the row of knitting.
12. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickness of the third yarn varies within the knitted element.
13. Double-layer knitted element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the tuck-in third yarn is provided in a repeat structure, a jacquard structure or a spacing-based structure.
14. Double knit element according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the element is produced by an intarsia, interlock, plating, reverse plating and/or nesting technique.
15. An upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, comprising a double knit element according to one of the preceding claims.
16. Shoe, in particular sports shoe, comprising:
a. an upper according to claim 15; and
b. a sole attached to the upper.
17. A method of manufacturing a double knit element according to one of claims 1 to 14, the method comprising the steps of:
a. providing a first layer comprising a first yarn; and
b. providing a second layer comprising a second yarn; and
c. disposing a third yarn at least partially between the first layer and the second layer, wherein the third yarn is connected to at least one of the first layer and the second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one drop stitch between two consecutive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
CN202111359499.1A 2020-11-17 2021-11-17 Double knit upper including functional tuck-in yarns Pending CN114517354A (en)

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