CN114053171A - Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114053171A
CN114053171A CN202111492247.6A CN202111492247A CN114053171A CN 114053171 A CN114053171 A CN 114053171A CN 202111492247 A CN202111492247 A CN 202111492247A CN 114053171 A CN114053171 A CN 114053171A
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whitening
skin
percent
melanin
vitamin
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崔大祥
刘泽熙
李雪玲
田静
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Shanghai National Engineering Research Center for Nanotechnology Co Ltd
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Shanghai National Engineering Research Center for Nanotechnology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Abstract

The invention provides a whitening essence and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the whitening essence comprises the following components: chitosan, nicotinamide, sodium hyaluronate, coconut oil, 1, 2-pentanediol, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, vitamin B-5, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glyceryl stearate, xanthan gum and water. The invention aims to achieve the effects of whitening and removing black, nourishing, stabilizing the skin state, moisturizing and resisting inflammation through the synergistic effect of the melanin generation and the transfer of the melanin to epidermal keratinocytes and other stages.

Description

Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a whitening essence and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Since ancient times, women in China and even the entire east Asia region have just worried "use white as the beauty". Because Asians often have delicate five sense organs, soft whole facial lines, unobtrusive outline edges and corners and low three-dimensional folding degree in the face, the fair skin color can thoroughly lighten facial line lines and can contrast the color of red lips and black pupils to be brighter. In 2018, whitening white skin book for female, 42% of girls are whitening from the age of 15, and 39% of girls are sun-screening/whitening conscious from the age of 11. The whitening requirements (spot removal, whitening and sun protection) account for 42.2% of the attention of the skin care product; the demand for whitening flux is continuously increasing, and the demand for whitening flux is greatly increased by 81.3% in 2018. The whitening market is one of the hot directions of various large cosmetic skin care categories and warns of soldiers. The market scale of the whitening industry in 2013 is 2690 million yuan, and the market scale of the whitening industry in 2018 is increased to 4436 million yuan. The active ingredient formula of the whitening essence is designed to develop thinking around a multi-stage color deposition mechanism of melanin deposition synthesis and transfer to surface cutin and the like, and provides a more sufficient and targeted effective method for improving skin whitening and tenderness for consumers.
Darkening of the skin is in fact a chain reaction of endogenous melanin in our body during its own oxidation. During the process of synthesizing melanin by melanocyte, the key is the step of converting amino acid of tyrosine into dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine), and the reaction step needs tyrosinase as a reaction catalyst. When the skin is stimulated by external factors mainly including ultraviolet irradiation, the skin can generate a large number of free radicals and release inflammatory factors, so that collagen is damaged and DNA is broken; due to the self-exogenesis protection mechanism of human body, melanin is oxidized into more dark oxidized melanin by oxygen free radicals generated by UVA in ultraviolet rays, which requires activation of tyrosinase activity in melanocytes and stimulation of tyrosine conversion to dopa, thereby generating more melanin. During the process of increasing the oxidized melanin, a large amount of melanin absorbs ultraviolet rays to protect deep tissues from the external ultraviolet rays. After melanin production, under normal skin metabolism conditions, melanin enters the skin surface with cellular metabolism and finally peels off with aging cutin. However, if the skin is exposed to the sun for a long time or the skin has poor metabolic capability, melanin is deposited in the epidermal layer of the skin when the balance between production and rejection is disrupted. If the skin color is uniformly deposited, the skin color becomes black; if the deposition is localized, freckle and black spot will be formed.
The action mechanism of general whitening can be developed from the following 5 aspects: 1. reducing the influence of exogenous factors, namely sun protection; 2. reduce melanocytes, interfere with their normal function; 3. inhibiting tyrosinase activity and preventing it from synthesizing melanin; 4. oxidation resistance and melanin reduction acceleration; 5. accelerate melanin metabolism and block its transmission to the epidermal cutin.
Nicotinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3 nicotinic acid, acts to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to epidermal keratinocytes and to allow the melanocyte-containing keratinocytes to be more rapidly exfoliated, preventing the excessive precipitation of melanin. It is also an inflammation inhibitor, and can inhibit inflammatory reaction, reduce skin aging process in free radical oxidation reaction, even promote collagen synthesis rate, and increase skin resistance to external irritation.
VC, as one of the formula components of the whitening product as a love, can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent the generation of melanin and even reduce the newly generated melanin, and simultaneously replace skin tissues to oxidize with free radicals, so that the skin is protected from being damaged and aged by partial ultraviolet irradiation through phase transformation. The enol structure of the pentalactone ring is unstable and easily loses H ions, and shows acidity, so that the pentalactone ring is also called ascorbic acid.
The phospholipid bilayer occupies a large part of our skin cells, and the outer two ends are composed of hydrophobic ends, so that the structure determines that the skin surface is more prone to lipophilic components, the permeation efficiency is higher, and the phospholipid bilayer is easier to absorb. In contrast, in the prototype VC, since the carbon chain is too short, it is often difficult to sufficiently permeate into the epidermis layer as a hydrophilic component. Based on the characteristic, some modifications are made to the structure of vc, and various specific derivatives of vc are created so as to improve the absorption and utilization rate in different environments. The ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP adopted by the invention is greatly prolonged at all carbon chain ends, greatly improves the structural stability of the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP, and changes the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP from hydrophilic to lipophilic, so that the skin permeability and the absorption rate of the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP are far superior to those of a prototype VC. Meanwhile, the method also has the advantage of higher VC conversion rate after entering the body, has half more in-vitro VC conversion rate than common phosphate salt, and has extremely excellent performance in an oil-soluble system.
Chitosan, a high-molecular active ingredient extracted from marine organisms, has excellent characteristics of safety, no toxicity, antibiosis, moisture retention, oxidation resistance, degradability and the like, and is widely used. The glucosamine which is the component of the composition unit is similar to the important component ceramide of the human epidermal lipid membrane layer, and has good compatibility and film forming property; it can inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin formation, has good water absorption and moisture retention due to amino groups bound with water molecules, and is beneficial to skin health.
Vitamin E is an important biological antioxidant, can effectively remove free radicals, delay skin photoaging, enhance resistance and reduce the probability of adverse inflammatory reactions. More importantly, the vitamin E is often added into skin care products as a blending agent, so that the absorption of vitamin C and vitamin A can be promoted, and the nutrient utilization efficiency of the skin care products is improved. Therefore, vitamin C and vitamin E have become a pair of gold partners in the antioxidant field of skin care products.
Xanthan gum is a biopolymer obtained by a series of microbial fermentation processes of starch as a raw material, and the main components of the biopolymer are glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid and the like, and the biopolymer has outstanding high viscosity and water solubility, excellent temperature and ph stability and compatible buffer performance. It is a polyol having a multi-side chain linear structure. The hydroxyl group of the emulsifier can be combined with water molecules to form a stable network structure, and the emulsifier has high viscosity at very low concentration, remarkable thickening effect and high performance as an emulsifying thickener. The 1, 2-pentanediol is a micromolecular humectant with excellent performance, has the effects of a solvent and a preservative in a beauty product, has the functions of water locking and antibiosis, and can improve the water resistance of the product. The skin care product has the characteristics of no influence of hydrolysis, temperature and ph value, can effectively improve the skin feel of the product, and is mild and free of stimulation.
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is a good antiallergic agent and freckle removing agent component, has the effects of inhibiting bacteria, diminishing inflammation and resisting allergy, can promote the absorption of skin on nutrient substances, particularly minerals and trace elements, can promote the metabolism of skin, and removes some metabolic wastes, such as oxygen free radicals and the like.
The glyceryl stearate has high content of polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester in the aspects of heat resistance, viscosity and the like, has good hydrolysis resistance and strong emulsifying property, can be prepared into water-in-oil type and oil-in-water type emulsifying agents, has special stability, has strong thermal stability and viscosity reduction, can reduce the surface tension of water to form micelles, has multiple functions of decontamination, emulsification, dispersion, washing, wetting, permeation, diffusion, foaming, antioxidation, viscosity regulation, sterilization, aging prevention, antistatic, crystallization prevention and the like, and is safe, nontoxic and nontoxic to human bodies. It has good self-emulsifying property, and can be used alone or in combination with other emulsifiers.
The action mechanism of general whitening can be developed from the following 5 aspects: 1. reducing the influence of exogenous factors, namely sun protection; 2. reduce melanocytes, interfere with their normal function; 3. inhibiting tyrosinase activity and preventing it from synthesizing melanin; 4. oxidation resistance and melanin reduction acceleration; 5. accelerate melanin metabolism and block its transmission to the epidermal cutin.
Nicotinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3 nicotinic acid, acts to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to epidermal keratinocytes and to allow the melanocyte-containing keratinocytes to be more rapidly exfoliated, preventing the excessive precipitation of melanin. It is also an inflammation inhibitor, and can inhibit inflammatory reaction, reduce skin aging process in free radical oxidation reaction, even promote collagen synthesis rate, and increase skin resistance to external irritation.
VC, as one of the formula components of the whitening product as a love, can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent the generation of melanin and even reduce the newly generated melanin, and simultaneously replace skin tissues to oxidize with free radicals, so that the skin is protected from being damaged and aged by partial ultraviolet irradiation through phase transformation. The enol structure of the pentalactone ring is unstable and easily loses H ions, and shows acidity, so that the pentalactone ring is also called ascorbic acid.
The phospholipid bilayer occupies a large part of our skin cells, and the outer two ends are composed of hydrophobic ends, so that the structure determines that the skin surface is more prone to lipophilic components, the permeation efficiency is higher, and the phospholipid bilayer is easier to absorb. In contrast, in the prototype VC, since the carbon chain is too short, it is often difficult to sufficiently permeate into the epidermis layer as a hydrophilic component. Based on the characteristic, some modifications are made to the structure of vc, and various specific derivatives of vc are created so as to improve the absorption and utilization rate in different environments. The ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP adopted by the invention is greatly prolonged at all carbon chain ends, greatly improves the structural stability of the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP, and changes the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP from hydrophilic to lipophilic, so that the skin permeability and the absorption rate of the ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate VC-IP are far superior to those of a prototype VC. Meanwhile, the method also has the advantage of higher VC conversion rate after entering the body, has half more in-vitro VC conversion rate than common phosphate salt, and has extremely excellent performance in an oil-soluble system.
Chitosan, a high-molecular active ingredient extracted from marine organisms, has excellent characteristics of safety, no toxicity, antibiosis, moisture retention, oxidation resistance, degradability and the like, and is widely used. The glucosamine which is the component of the composition unit is similar to the important component ceramide of the human epidermal lipid membrane layer, and has good compatibility and film forming property; it can inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin formation, has good water absorption and moisture retention due to amino groups bound with water molecules, and is beneficial to skin health.
Vitamin E is an important biological antioxidant, can effectively remove free radicals, delay skin photoaging, enhance resistance and reduce the probability of adverse inflammatory reactions. More importantly, the vitamin E is often added into skin care products as a blending agent, so that the absorption of vitamin C and vitamin A can be promoted, and the nutrient utilization efficiency of the skin care products is improved. Therefore, vitamin C and vitamin E have become a pair of gold partners in the antioxidant field of skin care products.
Xanthan gum is a biopolymer obtained by a series of microbial fermentation processes of starch as a raw material, and the main components of the biopolymer are glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid and the like, and the biopolymer has outstanding high viscosity and water solubility, excellent temperature and ph stability and compatible buffer performance. It is a polyol having a multi-side chain linear structure. The hydroxyl group of the emulsifier can be combined with water molecules to form a stable network structure, and the emulsifier has high viscosity at very low concentration, remarkable thickening effect and high performance as an emulsifying thickener. The 1, 2-pentanediol is a micromolecular humectant with excellent performance, has the effects of a solvent and a preservative in a beauty product, has the functions of water locking and antibiosis, and can improve the water resistance of the product. The skin care product has the characteristics of no influence of hydrolysis, temperature and ph value, can effectively improve the skin feel of the product, and is mild and free of stimulation.
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is a good antiallergic agent and freckle removing agent component, has the effects of inhibiting bacteria, diminishing inflammation and resisting allergy, can promote the absorption of skin on nutrient substances, particularly minerals and trace elements, can promote the metabolism of skin, and removes some metabolic wastes, such as oxygen free radicals and the like.
The glyceryl stearate has high content of polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester in the aspects of heat resistance, viscosity and the like, has good hydrolysis resistance and strong emulsifying property, can be prepared into water-in-oil type and oil-in-water type emulsifying agents, has special stability, has strong thermal stability and viscosity reduction, can reduce the surface tension of water to form micelles, has multiple functions of decontamination, emulsification, dispersion, washing, wetting, permeation, diffusion, foaming, antioxidation, viscosity regulation, sterilization, aging prevention, antistatic, crystallization prevention and the like, and is safe, nontoxic and nontoxic to human bodies. It has good self-emulsifying property, and can be used alone or in combination with other emulsifiers.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a whitening essence,
it is yet another object of the present invention to provide: a preparation method of the whitening essence.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide: application of whitening essence in whitening cosmetics is provided.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following scheme: the whitening essence is characterized by comprising the following components: chitosan, nicotinamide, sodium hyaluronate, coconut oil, 1, 2-pentanediol, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, vitamin B-5, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glyceryl stearate, xanthan gum and water.
The whitening essence consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-2% of chitosan, 1-5% of nicotinamide, 0.01-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-10% of coconut oil, 0.05-2% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.05-10% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1-10% of vitamin B-5, 0.1-1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5-5% of glycerol stearate, 0.01-1% of xanthan gum and the balance of water.
Preferably, the whitening essence consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 0.3% -1% of chitosan, 1% -3.5% of nicotinamide, 0.03% -0.25% of sodium hyaluronate, 1% -5% of coconut oil, 0.1% -1.5% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1% -5% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1% -5% of vitamin B-5, 0.28% -0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.8% -3.5% of glycerol stearate, 0.05% -0.5% of xanthan gum and the balance of water.
Preferably, the whitening essence consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5% chitosan, 2% niacinamide, 0.25% sodium hyaluronate, 5% coconut oil, 0.8%1, 2-pentanediol, 2% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 5% vitamin B-5, 0.35% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 2.5% glyceryl stearate, 0.35% xanthan gum, and the balance water.
The invention provides application of whitening essence in whitening cosmetics, which is represented by one of the following categories: whitening facial mask, whitening lotion, whitening cream and whitening essence.
The raw materials can be purchased from the market.
The invention provides a preparation method of whitening essence, which comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing sodium hyaluronate, coconut oil, 1, 2-pentanediol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glyceryl stearate, xanthan gum and water in a stirring container, fully mixing and stirring, gradually heating to 75-80 ℃, heating without stopping stirring, and keeping for 3-5 minutes;
(2) after the temperature of the mixture container is reduced to 40-45 ℃, adding the vitamin B-5, the chitosan, the ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and the nicotinamide, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixed product.
The product related by the invention effectively and perfectly solves most of skin problems encountered after skin is excessively illuminated and is subjected to oxidative damage from the aspect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, blocking melanin transmission path and accelerating skin metabolism, simultaneously keeps low negative effect and stable skin state, and adopts materials matched according to the properties, thereby not only avoiding the problem that certain components are easily denatured by light in the daytime but also causing irritation and failure to the skin, but also properly selecting an emulsifying solvent system with higher corresponding permeability according to the structure of human skin so as to improve the permeability and absorption efficiency.
The effects of inhibiting the activity of the tyrosinase to block the synthesis of melanin, cutting off the transmission path of the tyrosinase to the epidermal layer to avoid the formation of color deposit, increasing the metabolism of skin, accelerating the discharge of melanin, strengthening the antioxidation and stimulating the proliferation of collagen, and achieving the effects of nourishing and tendering skin, removing color spots and darkness, brightening and homogenizing skin color and keeping the skin state stable through multi-way cooperation.
Detailed Description
In order to facilitate further elucidation and understanding of the invention, embodiments of the invention will now be described in more detail with reference to the examples. The following examples are merely illustrative of the present invention and the scope of the invention described should not be limited to the examples.
The following examples are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but any other changes, modifications, substitutions and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof.
Example 1
The whitening essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5% chitosan, 2% niacinamide, 0.25% sodium hyaluronate, 5% coconut oil, 0.8%1, 2-pentanediol, 2% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 5% vitamin B-5, 0.35% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 2.5% glyceryl stearate, 0.35% xanthan gum, and the balance water.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing 0.25% sodium hyaluronate, 5% coconut oil, 0.8%1, 2-pentanediol, 0.35% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 2.5% glyceryl stearate, 0.35% xanthan gum and water in a stirring container, fully mixing and stirring, gradually heating to 75 ℃, heating without stopping stirring, and keeping for 5 minutes;
(2) after the temperature of the mixture container is reduced to 40 ℃, 5 percent of vitamin B-5, 0.5 percent of chitosan, 2 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 2 percent of nicotinamide are added and stirred evenly to obtain a mixed product.
In the present example, the effect evaluation:
test method 1: selecting 48 volunteers with darker facial skin, and uniformly dividing the selected volunteers into 4 groups: group A uses the whitening essence prepared in the example 1, and the whitening essence is respectively smeared on the whole face for 1 time for 28 consecutive days after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening; group B is coated with sunscreen product once in the morning without using whitening essence for 28 days; group C uses a commercially available whitening essence skin care product, the main functional components are arbutin and bletilla striata extract, and the skin care product is respectively smeared on the whole face for 1 time and lasts for 28 days after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening each day; group D indicates that none was used for 28 days. CIE-Lab color measurements were made on the facial skin of volunteers using a Konika minolta CMC-26dG spectrocolorimeter before and after the start of the experiment. The measurement will involve 3 values, namely the L value-the lightness (related to skin brightness), a value-the red to green axis (related to the degree of redness of the skin) and b value-the blue to yellow axis (related to skin pigmentation, yellowing), where the L value lightness is mainly affected by the melanin content, the higher the content the lower the L value.
The test results will be expressed in degrees of variation in L value, and the difference in skin brightness (Δ L) between before the start of the test and after the 28-day test is calculated according to the following formula: Δ L ═ luminance after 28 days of the experiment L-luminance before the start of the experiment L. The results are shown in Table 1. Wherein, when the whitening effect is evaluated by the Δ L value, a Δ L value of about 2 indicates a significant reduction in pigmentation, and if it exceeds 1.5, it indicates a whitening effect. Table 1 below shows the variation of the L difference of 12 experimental individuals in each group, and the mean value of all Δ L is used to represent the 28-day whitening effect of the shuffling treatment
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
From the test results in the table above, it can be seen that the L value of the whole facial skin of the testers in group a is significantly improved, i.e. the brightness is significantly improved after the product of example 1 is used; the face of the testers in group B does not use the product of example 1 after 28 days of test, and the L value, namely the skin color brightness, is not obviously changed under the condition of only applying sun protection; after the group C testers sell facial essence in the market, the improvement of the brightness L value is slightly lower than that of the product of the embodiment; in the group D, the skin brightness was reduced as the L value was reduced by the test subjects who did not use any skin care product and received external stimulation such as daily UV irradiation. According to the reflection of a tester, the skin care product is generally considered to be mild, non-irritant, non-inflammatory, non-stuffy and non-sensitive to skin after being used.
Group A uses the whitening essence prepared in the embodiment, and the whitening essence is respectively smeared on the whole face for 1 time for 28 consecutive days after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening; group B is coated with sunscreen product once in the morning without using whitening essence for 28 days; group C uses a commercially available whitening essence skin care product, the main functional components are arbutin and bletilla striata extract, and the skin care product is respectively smeared on the whole face for 1 time and lasts for 28 days after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening each day; group D indicates that none was used for 28 days. The subjects were tested for facial melanin values MI using the Mexameter MX18 on the day before and on the day 28 days after completion of the experiment using the example product and other control groups. Based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB), the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the amount of radiation after illumination of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The measuring range of the instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin is. Table 2 below shows the change in the difference in MI melanin values for 12 experimental subjects in each group, and the mean of all Δ MI (melanin index) values is used to represent the 28-day whitening effect of the shuffling treatment
Figure 126629DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
From the above results, the Δ MI values of the whole facial skin of the subjects in group a were significantly reduced, i.e. the melanin content was significantly reduced after using the product of example 1; the facial area of the testers in group B does not use the product of example 1 after 28 days of test, and the whole skin color state, namely the melanin content, is not obviously changed under the condition of only applying sun protection; group C testers had a slightly lower reduction in Δ MI values for the whole facial skin after using the facial sales essence than the example products; in contrast, in the group D, the test subjects did not use any skin care product and received external stimulation such as daily UV irradiation, the Δ MI value increased slightly, and the skin melanin pigmentation increased slightly. According to the reflection of a tester, the skin care product is generally considered to be mild, non-irritant, non-inflammatory, non-stuffy and non-sensitive to skin after being used.
The 2 tests can show that the product of the embodiment can not cause adverse reactions to the skin of the subject, and the ingredient combination formula of the whitening essence has low irritation, and has the effects of moistening the skin and maintaining the stable state of the skin. Meanwhile, through a use contrast test of 28 days, namely a skin metabolic cycle, the skin brightness of a tester is slightly and remarkably improved, the melanin deposition degree is slightly and remarkably reduced, and the skin care effect of whitening and removing the black is achieved. After long-term use, good effects of removing melanin, brightening skin color and even relieving dark spots are expected.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention. Those who do not specify specific conditions in the examples of the present invention follow conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The raw materials or instruments of the reagents are not indicated by manufacturers, and all the reagents are conventional products which can be purchased in the market.

Claims (5)

1. The whitening essence is characterized in that: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-2% of chitosan, 1-5% of nicotinamide, 0.01-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-10% of coconut oil, 0.05-2% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.05-2% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1-10% of vitamin B-5, 0.1-1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5-5% of glycerol stearate, 0.01-1% of xanthan gum and the balance of water.
2. The whitening essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: the composition consists of the following components: 0.3% -1% of chitosan, 1% -3.5% of nicotinamide, 0.03% -0.25% of sodium hyaluronate, 1% -5% of coconut oil, 0.1% -1.5% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1% -1% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1% -5% of vitamin B-5, 0.28% -0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.8% -3.5% of glycerol stearate, 0.05% -0.5% of xanthan gum and the balance of water.
3. The preparation method of the whitening essence according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) mixing 0.01-0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-10% of coconut oil, 0.05-2% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1-1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5-5% of glyceryl stearate, 0.01-1% of xanthan gum and water into a stirring container, fully mixing and stirring, gradually heating to 75-80 ℃, heating without stopping stirring, and keeping for 3-5 minutes;
(2) after the temperature of the mixture container is reduced to 40-45 ℃, 1-10 percent of vitamin B-5, 0.1-2 percent of chitosan, 0.05-2 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 1-5 percent of nicotinamide are added and stirred uniformly to obtain a mixed product.
4. The preparation method of the whitening essence according to claim 3, characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) mixing 0.25% sodium hyaluronate, 5% coconut oil, 0.8%1, 2-pentanediol, 0.35% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 2.5% glyceryl stearate, 0.35% xanthan gum and water in a stirring container, fully mixing and stirring, gradually heating to 75 ℃, heating without stopping stirring, and keeping for 5 minutes;
(2) after the temperature of the mixture container is reduced to 40 ℃, 5 percent of vitamin B-5, 0.5 percent of chitosan, 2 percent of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 2 percent of nicotinamide are added and stirred evenly to obtain a mixed product.
5. The whitening essence according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the whitening essence is at least one of whitening masks, whitening emulsions, whitening creams and whitening essence.
CN202111492247.6A 2021-12-08 2021-12-08 Whitening essence and preparation method and application thereof Pending CN114053171A (en)

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CN113476353A (en) * 2021-07-07 2021-10-08 广州天然国度生物科技有限公司 Whitening essence suitable for long-term storage and preparation method thereof

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CN108210362A (en) * 2016-12-14 2018-06-29 天津强微特生物科技有限公司 A kind of VACE Essences of freckle removing and whitening
CN108294973A (en) * 2018-03-28 2018-07-20 高华星 Body whitening crème
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