CN113981601A - 改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫及其制备方法，PET和PTT聚酯复合长丝与毛或毛混纺细纱通过并线形成的复合纱作为芯，PET和PTT聚酯复合长丝为原液着色或白色的自卷曲长丝；羊毛衫纬向具有5‑40％的拉伸弹性。本发明可以提供持久弹性、弹性可控、可以匹染、分别兼具抗菌、防透、抗静电、速干等功能的羊毛衫，解决现有羊毛衫难以兼顾功能、和弹性，实现多种优异复合性能的、高性价比的功能性毛弹性织物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及新型纺织材料技术领域，具体为一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫及其制备方法。
背景技术
精梳毛针织绒线通常采用条染复精梳的流程实现纤维染色、毛条混色，并经过纺纱加工而成。这种长流程的色纺工艺，导致研发打样流程长，同一羊毛衫不同颜色实现相对困难。
羊毛衫的主要原材料为毛短纤维，表面有或多或少的鳞片层覆盖，使得其对可见光的反射性能和表面光滑的合成纤维长丝差异很大，导致合成纤维长丝很难用于羊毛衫中；即使是原液着色长丝，也存在和毛纤维色光不同的风险，导致色花、和不同角度的反光差异显著的现象。
弹性可以赋予纺织品更好的适体和舒适性能，已经成为现有服用纺织品的最广泛的需求。毛织物实现弹性通常采用毛（或毛混纺）纱包覆弹性纤维如氨纶（如Lycra）、聚烯烃(如DOW公司的XLA纤维)形成的包芯纱来实现。这类弹性纤维应用的缺点在于：不能裸丝应用，必须要作为芯纱被其它纤维包覆，才能具有实用价值；需要专门的包芯纱设备才能进行加工，并且加工流程较长、弹性难以控制均匀；同时，该类弹性织物存在多次反复使用时易松弛、化学稳定性差的缺点。而需要高温高压染色的普通聚酯复合弹性长丝，通过原液着色后，借助巧妙的组织结构设计，可以实现较为持久的弹性，如发明专利 ZL2007 《聚酯复合长丝并线型纬向弹性毛织物及其制备方法》、发明专利ZL2007 聚酯复合长丝间纬型纬向弹性毛织物及其制备方法,提出了采用PET/PTT聚酯复合长丝实现毛织物弹性的方法。但是，显然，由于PET/PTT需要高温高压染色，不能够和毛纤维进行绞染，需要原液着色长丝才能够实现羊毛衫的弹性。存在和毛纤维色光难以协调、羊毛衫容易出现闪色和异色等问题。
多种优异的性能成为羊毛衫未来发展的趋势。在满足丰富颜色的基础上，既要有舒适弹性，又要有功能性，比如抗菌、抗静电或防透等。在弹性实现的基础上，往往通过后整理附加给羊毛衫一定的功能，比如抗菌、防透、抗静电、吸湿速干等。后整理获得的功能，一方面难以持久，另一方面会对其他性能产生影响。
为了解决上述问题，实现羊毛衫的持久弹性、弹性可控、可以绞染、且兼具各种功能，满足消费者日益增长的个性化服用需求，我们提出一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫及其制备方法。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫及其制备方法，以解决上述背景技术中提出的问题。
为实现上述目的，本发明提供如下技术方案：一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1：选取功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝：将PET切片，粘度为0.4-0.8，将PBT切片，粘度为0.8-1.4，分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中，并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒，通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处，并列挤出获得复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，复合比为30/70-70/30；
S2：纺纱：将S1中的复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，通过单根或双根长丝的Sirofil纺、并线，经过加捻获得纱线，捻系数控制在85-95；
S3：染色：将S2获得纱线进行前处理和绞染，其中前处理温度不低于90℃，绞染是使用活性染料在 100 ℃条件染色80min；
S4：织造：以S3获得纱线，通过横机、套口、手缝、检验各工序后，最后水洗整烫出成品。
优选的，所述功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。
优选的，所述改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度在33dtex-330dtex范围内，强力不低于2.0cN/dtex。
优选的，S2中复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱的比例为80/20-10/90。
优选的，S3中还可以采用两步一浴法，先染聚酯再染毛。
本发明还提供一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物，采用上述的制备方法，包括由低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝与毛或毛混纺细纱通过包覆、并线加捻后形成的复合纱进行绞染工艺，经过前处理、活性染料染色使聚酯复合长丝和毛纤维着色工序后制备获得的毛织物。
优选的，所述改性PET的染色温度不大于100℃。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明可以提供持久弹性、弹性可控、可以匹染、分别兼具抗菌、防透、抗静电、速干等功能的羊毛衫，解决现有羊毛衫难以兼顾功能、和弹性，实现多种优异复合性能的、高性价比的功能性毛弹性织物。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明中的实施例，对本发明的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例一：
本发明提供一种技术方案：改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫底的制备方法，具体步骤如下：
（1）复合聚酯长丝制备：采用聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯（PET）和聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯（PTT）以60/40的复合比例通过复合纺丝技术获得细度为65D的复合白丝；或者在纺丝过程中分别加入PET基的母粒和PTT基的母粒获得同样细度范围、原液着色的复合丝；
（2）成纱方式：将步骤（1）中的复合白丝或原液着色的复合丝和680Z捻/m的48Nm/2100%羊毛纺细纱在细纱机上进行包覆，并加捻得到捻度380S捻/m的并线纱；控制毛纱并线张力为4.82g、长丝并线张力为2.32g,使得复合白丝或复合丝处于伸直而不伸长的状态，以防止小辫子纱出现。所述复合白丝或复合丝细度与毛或毛混纺纱的细度比例为1.8，并线后形成的复合白丝或复合丝/毛或毛混纺纱的比例为60/40。
（3）染色方式：将步骤（2）获得纱线进行前处理和绞染，其中前处理温度不低于90℃，绞染是使用活性染料在 100 ℃条件染色80min；
（4）编织方式：以单纱捻度为680Z捻/m、股线捻度为380S捻/m的48Nm/2的普通毛纱或毛混纺纱进行织造。工艺员根据羊毛衫的制作要求进行组织、密度、尺寸的确定，制版师依据工艺要求编写程序。经过横机、套口、手缝、检验各工序后出成衣。
（5）整理工序：合格的成衣要先进行脏活和油污的检查，做出特殊处理再进行洗缩，对于精纺针织物美丽诺羊毛会出现起毛现象，浴比建议采用25：1，转速10（r/min），35℃左右的温度。加入适当的助剂，改善羊毛衫的手感、绒面、实用性能。烫好后的成衣要放置自然回缩后再做尺寸的符合，外观手感柔软且富有弹性，具有抗菌功能。
实施例二：
本发明提供一种技术方案：改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫底的制备方法，具体步骤如下：
选取功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝：将PET切片，粘度为0.8，将PBT切片，粘度为1.4，改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度在330dtex范围内，强力2.0cN/dtex；分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中，并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒，功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处，并列挤出获得复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，复合比为70/30；
纺纱：将复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，通过单根或双根长丝的Sirofil纺、并线，经过加捻获得纱线，捻系数控制在95；复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱的比例为10/90。
染色：将获得的纱线进行前处理和绞染，其中前处理温度90℃，绞染是使用活性染料在 100 ℃条件染色80min；所述改性PET的染色温度100℃
进一步的，还可以采用两步一浴法，先染聚酯再染毛。
织造：以获得的纱线，通过横机、套口、手缝、检验各工序后，最后水洗整烫出成品。
尽管已经示出和描述了本发明的实施例，对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以理解在不脱离本发明的原理和精神的情况下可以对这些实施例进行多种变化、修改、替换和变型，本发明的范围由所附权利要求及其等同物限定。
Claims (7)
1.一种改性聚酯复合长丝的功能性羊毛衫的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1：选取功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝：将PET切片，粘度为0.4-0.8，将PBT切片，粘度为0.8-1.4，分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中，并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒，通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处，并列挤出获得复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，复合比为30/70-70/30；
S2：纺纱：将S1中的复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱，通过单根或双根长丝的Sirofil纺、并线，经过加捻获得纱线，捻系数控制在85-95；
S3：染色：将S2获得纱线进行前处理和绞染，其中前处理温度不低于90℃，绞染是使用活性染料在 100 ℃条件染色80min；
S4：织造：以S3获得纱线，通过横机、套口、手缝、检验各工序后，最后水洗整烫出成品。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。
3.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度在33dtex-330dtex范围内，强力不低于2.0cN/dtex。
4.根据权利要求1所述的的制备方法，其特征在于：S2中复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱的比例为80/20-10/90。
5.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：S3中还可以采用两步一浴法，先染聚酯再染毛。
6.一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物，其特征在于：采用如权利要求1-5中任意一项所述的制备方法，包括由低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝与毛或毛混纺细纱通过包覆、并线加捻后形成的复合纱进行绞染工艺，经过前处理、活性染料染色使聚酯复合长丝和毛纤维着色工序后制备获得的毛织物。
7.根据权利要求6所述的功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物，其特征在于：所述改性PET的染色温度不大于100℃。
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