CN113913991A - 功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物的制备方法,将常压分散可染改性聚酯NEDDP和PBT并列复合纺丝获得的功能性弹性长丝,与毛或毛混纺细纱,通过Sirofil、包芯、并线等方式,形成的复合纱作为经纱或纬纱制备而成。其中,NEDDP/PBT聚酯复合弹性长丝为功能性、原液着色或白色的自卷曲长丝;制备获得的毛织物纬向具有5‑40%的拉伸弹性。本发明提供持久弹性、弹性可控、可以匹染、分别兼具抗菌、防透、抗静电、速干等功能的毛织物,解决现有毛织物难以兼顾功能和弹性,实现多种优异复合性能的、高性价比的功能性毛弹性织物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及新型纺织材料技术领域,具体为一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物及其制备方法。
背景技术
毛纺面料的主要原材料为毛短纤维,表面有或多或少的鳞片层覆盖,使得其对可见光的反射性能和表面光滑的合成纤维长丝差异很大,导致合成纤维长丝很难用于毛纺面料中;即使是原液着色长丝,也存在和毛纤维色光不同的风险,导致色花、和不同角度的反光差异显著的现象。弹性可以赋予纺织品更好的适体和舒适性能,已经成为现有服用纺织品的最广泛的需求。毛织物实现弹性通常采用毛(或毛混纺)纱包覆弹性纤维如氨纶(如Lycra)、聚烯烃(如DOW公司的XLA纤维)形成的包芯纱来实现。
这类弹性纤维应用的缺点在于:不能裸丝应用,必须要作为芯纱被其它纤维包覆,才能具有实用价值;需要专门的包芯纱设备才能进行加工,并且加工流程较长、弹性难以控制均匀;同时,该类弹性织物存在多次反复使用时易松弛、化学稳定性差的缺点。而需要高温高压染色的普通聚酯复合弹性长丝,通过原液着色后,借助巧妙的组织结构设计,可以实现较为持久的弹性,如发明专利 ZL2007 《聚酯复合长丝并线型纬向弹性毛织物及其制备方法》、发明专利ZL2007聚酯复合长丝间纬型纬向弹性毛织物及其制备方法,提出了采用PET/PTT聚酯复合长丝实现毛织物弹性的方法。但是,显然,由于PET/PTT需要高温高压染色,不能够和毛纤维进行匹染,需要原液着色长丝才能够实现毛织物的弹性。存在和毛纤维色光难以协调、织物容易出现闪色和异色等问题。
多种优异的性能成为毛织物未来发展的趋势。在满足丰富颜色的基础上,既要有舒适弹性,又要有功能性,比如抗菌、抗静电或防透等。在弹性实现的基础上,往往通过后整理附加给毛织物一定的功能,比如抗菌、防透、抗静电、吸湿速干等。后整理获得的功能,一方面难以持久,另一方面会对其他性能产生影响。
为了解决上述问题,我们提供一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物及其制备方法,实现毛织物的持久弹性、弹性可控、可以匹染、且兼具各种功能,满足消费者日益增长的个性化服用需求。
为实现上述目的,本发明提供如下技术方案:功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:选取功能性的常压分散可染改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝:将NEDDP切片,粘度为0.4-0.8dl/g,将PBT切片,粘度为0.8-1.4dl/g,分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中,并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒,通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处,并列挤出获得复合弹性长丝,复合比为30/70-70/30;
S2:纺纱:将S1或S2中的复合白丝单独合股、或者单根作为纱线;或者单根或多根长丝,和毛纱或毛混纺纱,以Sirofil纺、并线、包芯等方式,经过加捻获得纱线;纱线捻系数控制在135-150;
S3:织造:以S2获得纱线作为经纱或纬纱进行织造;或者以普通的毛或毛混纺纱作为经纱,将S1中获得的复合白丝作为纬纱之一,和经纱间隔织入;
S4:染整;先在160~190℃下进行预定型,将面料幅宽控制在不大于156cm;再通过30~50℃的温度、不大于220r/min的车速进行连煮不小于20min;染色采用分散染料和酸性染料的一浴法,在不大于100℃、时间不小于60min染色;蒸呢压力不低于0.6g,抽冷时间不低于90s。
优选的,所述功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。实际中根据不同功能,选择在不同组分里面添加不同含量的功能母粒。对于抗菌功能,可以分别在两个组分里面添加不大于3%的抗菌母粒;对于抗静电功能,可以在改性聚酯里面添加或不添加抗静电母粒;对于防透功能,可以在PBT组分里面添加不大于5%的防透母粒;对于吸湿速干功能,可以在PBT组分里面添加不大于5%的速干母粒。
优选的,所述功能性改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度在33dtex-330dtex范围内,强力不低于1.8cN/dtex。
优选的,S2中复合白丝和毛或毛混纺细纱的比例为80/20-10/90。
优选的,S3中间隔织入比例为1:5-5:1,织造的上机门幅和成品门幅的比例范围为1.1-1.5。
优选的,S4中预定型门幅与成品门幅的比例范围为1.02-1.2。
优选的,S4中的蒸呢工艺前,需要定型,定型温度不低于140℃。
本发明还提供了一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物,采用上述制备方法,包括由低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝与毛或毛混纺细纱通过Sirofil、并线、包芯等并加捻后形成的复合纱作为经纱或纬纱,通过织造形成的白坯布。
优选的,所述低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝的染色温度不大于100℃。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
本发明提供持久弹性、弹性可控、可以匹染、分别兼具抗菌、防透、抗静电、速干等功能的毛织物,解决现有毛织物难以兼顾功能、和弹性,实现多种优异复合性能的、高性价比的功能性毛弹性织物。
具体实施方式
下面将结合实施例对本发明中的技术方案进行说明。
实施例一:
本发明提供一种技术方案:一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物的制备方法,具体步骤如下:
(1)复合聚酯长丝制备:采用聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)和聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)以60/40的复合比例通过复合纺丝技术获得细度为80D的复合白丝;或者在纺丝过程中分别加入PET基的母粒和PTT基的母粒获得同样细度范围、原液着色的复合丝;
(2)纬纱成纱方式:将步骤1)中的复合白丝或原液着色的复合丝和760Z捻/m的90Nm/2毛/涤40/60混纺细纱在并线机上进行并线,并加捻得到捻度980S捻/m的并线纱;控制毛纱并线张力为6.42g、长丝并线张力为2.48g,使得复合白丝或复合丝处于伸直而不伸长的状态,以防止小辫子纱出现。所述复合白丝或复合丝细度与毛或毛混纺纱的细度比例为1.8,并线后形成的复合白丝或复合丝/毛或毛混纺纱的比例为30/70。
(3)织造方式:以单纱捻度为760Z捻/m、股线捻度为980S捻/m的90Nm/2的普通毛纱或毛混纺纱为经纱、以步骤2)所得的并线纱为纬纱,进行织造。织造过程中,纬纱至少采用两个储纬器进行大小筒子搭配织造。坯布经纬密度为480×320根/10cm。
(4)整理工序:烧毛后先采用连煮工序,在连煮设备上,以25m/min的速度通过105℃的高温连煮槽,或在单双煮设备上在100℃高温、浸湿状态下使得织物幅宽得到有效收缩。使得织物门幅收缩至160cm,在后续的湿整工序中继续进行有效幅缩,定型时拉幅2-3cm;如果没有连煮,则主要通过定型时使得门幅缩到154cm左右。最后通过蒸呢工序后达到150cm的成品门幅。成品经纬密度为560×342根/10cm。所得五枚两飞经面缎纹的纬向拉伸弹性在20%以内。
(5)功能性检测:①抗静电功能的电荷面密度在10次洗后不大于7.0uC/m2,执行标准【GB/T 12703.2-2009】;②抗菌功能对金黄色葡萄球菌及大肠杆菌的抑菌率≥70,对白色念珠菌的抑菌率≥60%,执行标准【GB/T 20944.3-2008】;③吸湿排汗功能的吸水率≥100%,执行标准【GB/T 216555.1-2008】;透气性≥115mm/s,执行标准【GB/T 5453-1997】。
实施例二:
本发明提供一种技术方案:一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物的制备方法,具体步骤如下:
选取功能性的常压分散可染改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝:将NEDDP切片,粘度为0.8dl/g,将PBT切片,粘度为1.4dl/g,分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中,并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒,其中所述功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。
通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处,并列挤出获得复合弹性长丝,复合比为70/30;
所述功能性改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度为330dtex,强力为1.8cN/dtex。
选取在纺丝过程中添加了功能性母粒、或具有异形截面的改性PET长丝,和弹性PBT长丝,通过加弹复合,制备成功能性的PET/PBT加弹复合长丝,其中,PET长丝和PBT长丝复合比为70/30;
纺纱:将复合白丝单独合股、或者单根作为纱线;或者单根或多根长丝,和毛纱或毛混纺纱,以Sirofil纺、并线、包芯等方式,经过加捻获得纱线;纱线捻系数控制在150;
织造:以纱线作为经纱或纬纱进行织造;或者以普通的毛或毛混纺纱作为经纱,将获得的复合弹性长丝作为纬纱之一,和经纱间隔织入;间隔织入比例为5:1,织造的上机门幅和成品门幅的比例范围为1.5。预定型门幅与成品门幅的比例范围为1.2。
染整:先在190℃下进行预定型,定型温度为140℃。将面料幅宽控制在156cm;再通过50℃的温度、220r/min的车速进行连煮20min;染色采用分散染料和酸性染料的一浴法,在100℃、时间60min染色;蒸呢压力0.6g,抽冷时间90s。
尽管已经示出和描述了本发明的实施例,对于本领域的普通技术人员而言,可以理解在不脱离本发明的原理和精神的情况下可以对这些实施例进行多种变化、修改、替换和变型,本发明的范围由所附权利要求及其等同物限定。
Claims (8)
1.一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1:选取功能性的常压分散可染改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝:将NEDDP切片,粘度为0.4-0.8dl/g,将PBT切片,粘度为0.8-1.4dl/g,分别放入对应不同的熔融箱体中,并在对应的熔融箱体中分别混入功能性母粒,通过各自的纺丝通道到喷丝板处,并列挤出获得复合弹性长丝,复合比为30/70-70/30;
S2:选取在纺丝过程中添加了功能性母粒、或具有异形截面的改性PET长丝和弹性PBT长丝,通过加弹复合,制备成功能性的PET/PBT加弹复合长丝,其中,改性PET长丝和弹性PBT长丝合比为30/70-70/30;
S3:纺纱:将S1或S2中的复合白丝单独合股、或者单根作为纱线;或者单根或多根长丝,和毛纱或毛混纺纱,以Sirofil纺、并线、包芯等方式,经过加捻获得纱线;纱线捻系数控制在135-150;
S4:织造:以S3获得纱线作为经纱或纬纱进行织造;或者以普通的毛或毛混纺纱作为经纱,将S1或S2中获得的复合弹性长丝作为纬纱之一,和经纱间隔织入;
S5:染整:先在160~190℃下进行预定型,将面料幅宽控制在不大于156cm;再通过30~50℃的温度、不大于220r/min的车速进行连煮不小于20min;染色采用分散染料和酸性染料的一浴法,在不大于100℃、时间不小于60min染色;蒸呢压力不低于0.6g,抽冷时间不低于90s。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于:所述功能性母粒包括抗菌母粒、抗静电母粒、防透母粒以及速干母粒。
3.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于:所述功能性改性NEDDP和PBT聚酯复合长丝的细度在33dtex-330dtex范围内,强力不低于1.8cN/dtex。
4.根据权利要求1所述的的制备方法,其特征在于:S2中改性PET长丝和弹性PBT长丝的比例为80/20-10/90。
5.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于:S3中间隔织入比例为1:5-5:1,织造的上机门幅和成品门幅的比例范围为1.1-1.5。
6.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法,其特征在于:S5中的蒸呢工艺前,需要定型,定型温度不低于140℃。
7.一种功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物,其特征在于:采用如权利要求1-6中任意一项所述的制备方法,包括由低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝与毛或毛混纺细纱通过Sirofil、并线、包芯等并加捻后形成的复合纱作为经纱或纬纱,通过织造形成的白坯布。
8.根据权利要求7所述的功能性改性聚酯复合长丝的匹染弹性毛织物,其特征在于:所述低温可染、功能性的改性PET和PBT聚酯复合长丝的染色温度不大于100℃。
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