CN113825485B - Improved quick-break water-in-oil emulsions - Google Patents

Improved quick-break water-in-oil emulsions Download PDF

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CN113825485B
CN113825485B CN202080032416.5A CN202080032416A CN113825485B CN 113825485 B CN113825485 B CN 113825485B CN 202080032416 A CN202080032416 A CN 202080032416A CN 113825485 B CN113825485 B CN 113825485B
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oil
emulsion according
oil emulsion
weight
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CN113825485A (en
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李发松
李岩
暴朝霞
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Beiersdorf AG
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a water-in-oil emulsion with improved quick-break effect.

Description

Improved quick-break water-in-oil emulsions
Technical Field
The present application is in the field of cosmetics and in particular relates to an improved fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion.
Background
In general, an emulsion is understood as a heterogeneous system consisting of at least two liquids which are immiscible with each other or have only limited miscibility and are generally referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (water or oil) is dispersed in the other liquid (oil or water, respectively) in the form of very fine droplets. In emulsions, the droplets (either as pure liquids or as solutions) are present in a more or less finely divided distribution. Generally, without the emulsifier, the emulsion has only limited stability.
Water-in-oil emulsions are characterized by aqueous droplets dispersed in a continuous oil phase. The water-in-oil emulsion may be abbreviated as W/O emulsion. In this specification, these two expressions are used synonymously. By "rapid break-up" is meant that the shearing forces acting on the corresponding emulsion formulation by distributing an appropriate amount of water-in-oil emulsion over and/or massaging the formulation in the skin will break down or "break up" the emulsion and release aqueous or emulsion droplets. The release of such droplets produces a refreshing and cooling effect.
The prior art has disclosed water-in-oil emulsions described as "quick-break". The water-in-oil emulsion according to CN 104968318A, which is a fast breaking emulsion, contains specific emulsifiers, namely amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane glycerol carbamate and/or diisostearyl polyglycerol-3 dimer linoleate. The emulsion is free of polyethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
A water-in-oil emulsion composition is described in JP 5477883 B2. According to the teachings of this application, two different surfactants, namely hydrophilic and lipophilic, are required to stabilize the emulsion. The powder is hydrophobic powder or powder after hydrophobization.
The product nivea male hydration water explosion concentrate (Nivea Men Hydration Water Burst Serum, mintel number 3478277) is a W/O emulsion characterized by "quick break" when in use. The product contains the emulsifier lauryl-PEG-9 polymethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane. The product was marketed in china since 9 months 2015.
Product Skin Nutrient Goat's Milk Magic Touch, manufactured by Australia Health Research & Development Group, contains the emulsifier PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, is a fast breaking emulsion.
Analysis of fast breaking W/O emulsions was published in 2008 (Personal Care, hai Zhou Zhang et al, month 3, 2008, page 45). All of the exemplary formulations disclosed therein contained the emulsifier ABIL EM 90 (cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane).
Water-in-oil emulsions with a rapid burst effect provide a special application experience for the consumer. During application, aqueous (water-based) or emulsion droplets become apparent. However, it is sometimes difficult to achieve a perfect rupture effect. If the break-up effect occurs too slowly or only to a low extent, the consumer will not notice the effect of rapidly breaking the water-in-oil emulsion, i.e. the cooling and/or refreshing effect caused by the water or emulsion droplets. Furthermore, if the drop is too small or too large, both the visual and tactile impressions are imperfect.
Rapidly breaking water-in-oil emulsions typically contain large amounts of water and are very sensitive to changes in temperature and shear forces; that is why such emulsions break and separate during massage on the skin and then appear as water or emulsion droplets.
To improve the break effect, the water content in such emulsions may be increased; however, this results in a composition that is less stable. To improve stability, more oleaginous components are typically added and the amount of water is reduced. This will lead to a poor quick-break effect after application of such an emulsion on the skin and a oily and greasy sensory impression.
For quick-break water-in-oil emulsions provided in the form of "milk" or milky lotions, the quick-break effect must be optimized. Non-optimal rapid burst effects can result in a whitish or white residue on the skin after application of such compositions. Consumers dislike this and may not purchase such products again.
Thus, a balance between an optimized rapid burst effect and sufficient stability of the composition must be achieved. Moreover, after application of the rapidly breaking water-in-oil emulsion, the skin should feel fresh and/or fresh, without any oily or greasy feel. Furthermore, the composition itself should be perceived as a clear, pleasant composition.
Disclosure of Invention
Surprisingly, by adding one or more selected powders, the rapid burst water-in-oil emulsion is significantly improved. The rapid burst effect occurs faster and more pronounced. In addition, the sensory impression of the composition itself is improved, as is the feel of the skin.
A quick-break water-in-oil emulsion comprising:
at least one powder material selected from the group consisting of starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and their respective derivatives,
an oil phase containing at least one lipid component selected from at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil,
the aqueous phase is chosen to be the one,
-at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7, wherein the at least one powder material has
-an average particle size of 1 to 100 microns;
-0.05m 2 /g to 100m 2 Specific surface area/g;
-an oil absorption of from 10 g oil/100 g powder to 100 g oil/100 g powder, which emulsion may bring about the desired improvement.
As mentioned above, the rapidly breaking water-in-oil emulsion preferably contains, relative to the total weight of the emulsion:
0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one powder material,
3 to 20% by weight of an oil phase,
from 60 to 97% by weight of an aqueous phase,
-0.5 to 10 wt% of at least one W/O emulsifier.
As mentioned above, the formulation of the present application is a fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion. In the present application, formulations, compositions and emulsions are used interchangeably. By the shear force acting on the emulsion, the emulsion breaks up (breaks down) and releases aqueous or emulsion droplets. To achieve this, the formulation according to the application contains a considerable amount of water, i.e. 50 to 97% by weight, preferably 60 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Preferably, the formulation of the application is a cosmetic formulation, more preferably intended to remain on the skin (leave-on).
According to the application, the fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion comprises an oil phase comprising at least one lipid component selected from silicone oils and/or organic liquid oils.
Silicone oils are fluid silicones. Silicones may also be referred to as polysiloxanes. The linear polysiloxanes can be described by the formula
(SiR 1 3 )–O–(SiR 2 2 –O-) n –(SiR 1 3 ),
Wherein R is 1 And R is 2 Independently represents hydrogen, a methyl group, or a C2 to C30 linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, a phenyl group and/or an aryl group; n is an integer of 0 to 50,000 and indicates the amount of siloxane units represented by the formula in the second bracket in the complete formula shown above.
Preferably, according to the present application, the silicone component is represented by the formula shown above, wherein R 1 And R is 2 Only methyl groups. Such silicone components are known as polydimethylsiloxanes. Depending on the number of n, the polydimethylsiloxane may be a fluid or rubbery semi-solid. According to the application, the silicone must be fluid, so advantageously n is an integer from 2 to 2000, preferably from 10 to 400.
Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes may be DM 20 available from BRB or the Xiameter PMX-200Silicone Fluid 20cSt available from Dow Corning, or Edlement14 PDMS 100 available from Momentive.
According to the application, the formulation according to the application contains at least one organic liquid oil. The organic liquid oil may be polar or nonpolar.
The nonpolar oil includes aliphatic non-branched hydrocarbons having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon may be included as a component characterized by a particular number of carbon atoms. However, preference is given to blends containing hydrocarbons having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms (e.g.C15.19 alkanes). For example, such a blend may be Gemseal 40 available from Total.
Furthermore, the nonpolar oil includes branched hydrocarbons having a total of 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the formulations of the present application comprise isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
More preferred are formulations of the application which contain one or more aliphatic non-branched hydrocarbons having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, especially as a blend, in combination with one or more branched hydrocarbons having a total of from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
Polar oils include esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched paraffinic carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, provided that the esters are fluid. Examples of such ester oils are methyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
Further, the polar oil includes neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/propylene glycol dicaprate, caprylic/capric/diglycerol succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/butylene glycol dicaprate, lactic acid C12-13 alkyl esters, tartaric acid di C12-13 alkyl esters, triisoglyceryl stearate, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate/dipentaerythritol hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide, and/or diisopropyl adipate.
Further, the polar oils include dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, with advantageous examples being dioctyl ethers (e.g., available from BASF under the trade name Cetiol OE) and dioctyl carbonates (e.g., available from BASF under the trade name Cetiol CC).
Advantageously, a single organic liquid oil may be included in the formulation of the present application. However, it is likewise advantageous if two or more organic liquid oils are contained. The organic liquid oil may be selected from one of the groups or from a different group.
Advantageously, the total oil content of the formulation according to the application is from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation. The total oil content comprises the amount of at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil. According to the application, the amount of oil content may be the same as the content of the oil phase. The content of emulsifier is not included in the total oil content within the meaning of the present application.
A single example comprises at least one cyclomethicone.
Cyclomethicone may be characterized by the formula:
wherein n is 3 to 30.
In cosmetic preparations, cyclomethicones are mainly used, n representing 4 to 6. These components have the property of reducing the tackiness of the cosmetic formulation. They are colorless thin fluids.
According to the new evaluation, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane (D4) is considered to possibly affect fertility and possibly be harmful to aquatic organisms. In addition, degradation is slow, and thus the substance may accumulate in living organisms.
Cyclopentadimethicone (D5) is absorbable and resorbable by the human body due to its high volatility.
Thus, the formulations of the present application are preferably free of cyclomethicones.
Advantageously, the formulation of the present application is free of cyclomethicone. In the meaning of the present application, "free" in relation to cyclomethicone means that less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, more preferably 0% by weight of the corresponding substance is contained relative to the total weight of the composition.
To stabilize the emulsion, one or more emulsifiers are generally contained.
The emulsifier helps to combine the two immiscible liquids in a manner that produces a stable formulation, i.e., emulsion (e.g., oil-in-water). For this purpose, the emulsifier must have amphiphilic properties, the hydrophobic part interacting with the oil or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part interacting with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing, droplets are generated which are dispersed in the respective environment, i.e. aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. First, emulsifiers do not have detersive surfactant properties. The emulsifier reduces the interfacial tension between the two phases and simultaneously reduces the interfacial work, and also realizes the stabilization of the formed emulsion. They stabilize the emulsion by the interfacial film and by forming a spatial or electrical barrier, thereby preventing the incorporation (coalescence) of the emulsified particles.
The HLB value is suitable for characterizing an emulsifier, which value is indicative of the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value can be determined by the following formula:
HLB=20×(1-M lipophilicity /M),
Wherein M is Lipophilicity Represents the molar mass of the lipophilic portion of a given emulsifier and M represents the molar mass of the total emulsifier.
In general, emulsifiers having HLB values up to about 8 are considered W/O emulsifiers. In contrast, the HLB value of the O/W emulsifier is greater than 8 to 15. Substances having an HLB value greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.
Advantageously, according to the application, said at least one W/O emulsifier is a polydimethylsiloxane-based W/O emulsifier.
A preferred polydimethylsiloxane-based emulsifier is lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, which may be Dowsil ES 5300Formulation Aid or Dowsil ES 5227Formulation Aid available from Dow Corning.
It is also preferred that the polydimethylsiloxane-based emulsifier is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, which may be Abil EM 90 or Abil EM 180 available from Evonic.
Also advantageously, according to the application, the at least one W/O emulsifier is a non-silicone based, PEG-free emulsifier. Preferred examples of such emulsifiers are glycerol monooleate (available from BASF as a solvent)90-O18), polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate (available as ISOLAN GPS), and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl3 dimer linoleate (available as ISOLAN PDI), both of which were obtained from Evonic corporation.
Within the meaning of the present application, the absence of PEG means that the corresponding emulsifier does not contain any polyethylene glycol residues. Moreover, it may be advantageous if the complete formulation of the present application does not contain polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or polyethylene glycol derivatives. In the meaning of the present application in relation to the foregoing, the term "free" means that the content of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or polyethylene glycol derivatives is less than 1 wt%, preferably less than 0.1 wt%, more preferably 0 wt%, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, in the formulation of the application, the total content of said at least one W/O emulsifier is comprised between 0.3% and 10.0% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
According to the application, the formulation according to the application contains at least one powder material selected from the group consisting of starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and their respective derivatives. The at least one powder material must meet certain criteria, i.e
-an average particle size of 1 to 100 microns;
-0.05m 2 /g to 100m 2 Specific surface area/g; and
-an oil absorption of from 10 g oil/100 g powder to 100 g oil/100 g powder.
The average particle size is determined according to ISO13320:2009 using Malvern Mastersizer 3000.
The specific surface area is the BET surface area determined according to the ISO 4652 method.
The oil absorption was determined according to ISO 4656-1-1992.
The starch powder is selected from modified starch powder, non-modified starch powder and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the non-modified starch powder is tapioca starch extracted from a tapioca plant. Tapioca starch is available from AkzoNobelas Tapioca Pure.
If the starch powder is selected from modified starches, it preferably contains tapioca starch and polymethylsilsesquioxane. More preferably, the combination contains about 98% by weight relative to the starting materialsAbout 2% by weight of polymethylsilsesquioxane. The starting material is obtainable from Akzo NobelTS Starch purchase.
Also preferred is that the modified starch is a di-starch phosphate, which is available from Solvadis under the trade name Corn PO4 PH "B".
The at least one powder material may be selected from talc, modified talc and/or kaolin.
Talc powder is commercially available from Omya under the trade name Microtalc Pharma 8. Talc N/MM3 modified with magnesium myristate (e.g., TALC N/MM3 provided by KOBO), TALC modified with stearylglutamic acid (e.g., TALC N-ASG4 provided by KOBO), and TALC treated with polydimethylsiloxane (and) cetylstearyl alcohol (and) stearic acid (and) ceramide NP (and phytosterol (e.g., TALC G8-DS-PDL3 provided by KOBO) are examples of modified TALC.
Kaolin was purchased from Quarzwerke as Pharmakaolin B860 and from Merck as "Weisser Ton innerlich" Art Nr 105006.
In the formulation according to the application, the content of the at least one powder material is from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the application, the composition according to the application also comprises at least one polyol. The polyol contains at least two hydroxyl groups and can bind substantial amounts of water. Thus, the polyhydric alcohol is a hygroscopic substance, which may be referred to as a moisturizer, providing moisture to the skin. Examples of suitable polyols are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol. Preferred polyols are glycerol, butanediol and/or propylene glycol.
If at least one polyethylene glycol is included in the composition of the present application, the total content of at least one polyol is preferably 3.0 to 50.0 wt%, more preferably 5.0 to 20.0 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, according to the application, the composition according to the application also comprises at least one preservative. All preservatives which are permissible and suitable for use in cosmetic preparations may be present. However, it is preferable to contain methyl parahydroxybenzoate, ethyl parahydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol, or a mixture thereof. In addition, ethanol may be contained. Ethanol has a preservative effect and is often classified as a preservative. Ethanol may be included as denatured alcohol. If ethanol is included in the formulation of the present application, the amount of ethanol ranges from 0.5 to 20 wt%, preferably from 0.7 to 10 wt%, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Other preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methyl isothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin may also be used. These preservatives may be used alone or in combination with the preferred preservatives and/or ethanol described above.
If at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present application, the total content of the at least one preservative is preferably 0.01 to 4.0 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt%, with respect to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of ethanol is not included in the above range. The values refer to the active content of the preservative. These values refer to all preservatives except ethanol.
Advantageously, according to the application, components of the stable formulation may also be present. Preferably, it may contain a physiologically compatible salt, more preferably sodium chloride.
If at least one stabilizing component, in particular sodium chloride, is contained in the composition according to the application, the total content of said at least one stabilizing component, in particular sodium chloride, is preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, according to the application, a complexing component may also be present. Preferably, the complexing component is selected from EDTA, [ S, S ] ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate and/or iminodisuccinate. If at least one complexing component is present in the formulation of the application, the at least one complexing component is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the application, the formulation according to the application may also contain a colorant. The colorant may be in the form of a dye or pigment. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g.Fe 2 O 3 、Fe 3 O 4 FeO (OH)) and/or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, prussian blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to select dyes and/or colour pigments according to the third edition of Rowe colour Index (Rowe colour Index) from the society of dyeing families (Society of Dyers and Colorists) of Bradford, UK, 1971.
Oil-soluble natural dyes, such as red pepper extract, beta-carotene or cochineal, are also advantageous.
If at least one colorant is included in the formulation of the present application, the at least one colorant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 weight percent, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the application, the formulation according to the application also contains at least one UV filter, which may be in the form of UV-A, UV-B and/or broadband filter substances. Optionally, the formulation may also comprise one or more organic and/or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the aqueous and/or oil phase.
Suitable UV filter materials are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: isopentyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2, 2-bis-ethoxycarbonyl vinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxy siloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers.
Suitable inorganic pigments are insoluble or sparingly water-soluble metal oxides and/or other metal compounds, in particular titanium (TiO 2 ) Zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ) Zirconium (ZrO) 2 ) Silicon (SiO) 2 ) Manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al) 2 O 3 ) Cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ) And mixtures of such oxides, and barium sulfate (BaSO 4 )。
Suitable UV-A filter materials for the purposes of the present application are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1).
Other suitable UV filter materials for the purposes of the present application are sulfonated water-soluble UV filters, such as:
2-phenyl-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid and salts thereof, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salts, in particular the disodium salt of phenyl-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid, INCI name disodium phenylbisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (CAS number: 180898-37-7);
salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, for example sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salts thereof, and the sulfonic acid itself (CAS No. 27503-81-7) under INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid;
1, 4-bis (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornenylmethyl) benzene (also known as 3,3' - (1, 4-phenylene-dimethylene) bis (7, 7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compound, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid). The INCI name of benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is terephthal-ylenedicamphsylic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2);
sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Further suitable UV filter substances for the purposes of the present application are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. filter substances which absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation. Examples of broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, for example,
2, 4-bis { [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxy phenol methoxyphenyl triazine);
dioctyl butylamide triazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butyramide triazone);
three (2-ethylhexyl) 4,4' - (1, 3, 5-triazine-2, 4, 6-trisilylamino) tribenzoate, also known as: 2,4, 6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2 '-ethyl-1' -hexyloxy) ] -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone);
2- [4, 6-bis (2, 4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS number: 2725-22-6).
In addition, 2' -methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: methylenebis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) may be included in the formulation of the present application.
Furthermore, the formulations of the present application may contain 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [ 2-methyl-3- [1, 3-tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxane-yl ] propyl ] phenol (CAS number 155633-54-8), INCI name cresol trazotrisiloxane.
If at least one UV filter is included in the formulation of the present application, the at least one UV filter is present in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt%, preferably 1.0 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
The formulations of the application preferably have a pH of from 4 to 8. The pH is adjusted by various suitable, physiologically acceptable means, however, it is preferred that the pH is adjusted by an inorganic base such as sodium hydroxide.
Cosmetic preparations according to the application may contain cosmetic adjuvants which are customarily included in such preparations, such as preservative adjuvants, fragrances, and other usual ingredients of cosmetic formulations.
Detailed Description
The following examples are intended to illustrate the application without limiting it. The values in the examples are given in weight percent, based on the total weight of the particular formulation, as active content.
Preparation method
The compositions of the present application may be prepared by any known or effective technique for preparing "fast breaking" water-in-oil emulsions. Methods of preparing the compositions of the present application include conventional formulation and mixing techniques.
Test method
The formulations of example 1.1 and comparative example (no powder starting material) were prepared and compared with the commercial product nivea male hydration water explosion concentrate (Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum). The INCI list of Nivea men's hydration water explosion concentrate discloses the following components: water, glycerol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, propylene glycol, sodium chloride, sodium hyaluronate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceroglycosides, dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, glycyrrhiza glabra (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) root extract, fucus (Fucus Vesiculosus) extract, sea mud (Maris Limus) extract, oyster shell extract, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, perfume.
Sensory panel evaluation was performed using the formulations. The evaluation was performed as follows:
-panelists:10 trained panelists participated in the evaluation. Panelists were evaluated for skin characteristics as normal and the test was performed on their arms.
-Evaluation team room: temperature: 23-27 ℃, humidity: 50-60 percent,
-Procedure
panelists were seated at the table for 10 minutes (environmental adaptation time).
The skin area of the corresponding product was coated using a stamp mark. A maximum of 3 areas are marked per arm, and each area is coated with a product. A panel evaluation can evaluate a total of 6 products (including 1 standard product that provides a calibration score).
The panelist dispenses a product at each marked area and activates a buzzer (beeper) to massage the product at a frequency.
Panelists started a timer and massaged the product while evaluating sensory criteria during the coating. Immediately after absorption the skin was touched and evaluated for sensory criteria.
-Grade
Water break time (Water breaking time): calculated as the number of massage turns.
Water-like: 0: extremely dry, 10: is extremely water-shaped.
Omicron less oily: 0: extremely oily, 10: neither is oily.
The omicron is less greasy: 0: extremely greasy, 10: nor greasy at all.
Less residue: 0: a large amount of residue, 10: clean and residue-free.
Smooth degree: 0: roughness, 10: is extremely smooth.
The following table shows the evaluation results.
Clearly, the formulations of the examples of the present application have a shorter water break time than formulations without powder and commercial products; evaluation of the "watery" quality showed similar results. Regarding smoothness, residue left on the skin, and greasy feel, the formulations of the present application were evaluated to be approximately within the same range as the comparative formulations and commercial products. The formulations of the present application were evaluated as less oily than the commercial products and comparative formulations. The results show that the product of the present application solves the above-mentioned problems, i.e. provides a significantly higher (better) rupturing effect and a higher amount of water to the skin, resulting in a rather cool and refreshing effect.
In addition, stability was also analyzed.
For evaluation of long-term storage, the example formulations (examples 1.1,1 to 12) were prepared and filled into 50ml clear glass bottles with plastic caps. The comparative product (nivea male hydration water explosion concentrate) was contained in the same glass bottle. The test samples were stored as indicated below.
OK means no significant water or oil separation and no discoloration.
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Claims (35)

1. A fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion comprising
0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one powder material selected from the group consisting of starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and their respective derivatives,
3 to 20% by weight of an oil phase containing at least one lipid component,
the lipid component is selected from at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil,
70 to 97% by weight of an aqueous phase,
0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7,
wherein the total amount of each component is 100% relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and
wherein the at least one powder material has:
average particle size of 1 micron to 100 microns;
·0.05m 2 /g to 100m 2 Specific surface area/g;
oil absorption of 10 g oil/100 g powder to 100 g oil/100 g powder.
2. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the water content is 50 to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
3. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that the water content is 60 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
4. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a cosmetic formulation.
5. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 4, characterized in that it is a leave-on cosmetic formulation intended to be left on the skin.
6. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is at least one silicone oil having from 2 to 2000 siloxane units.
7. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 6, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is a silicone oil having 10 to 400 siloxane units.
8. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 6, characterized in that the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane.
9. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is at least one non-polar organic oil selected from the group consisting of:
aliphatic non-branched hydrocarbons having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, and/or
Aliphatic branched hydrocarbons having a total of 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
10. The water-in-oil emulsion of claim 9, wherein the aliphatic non-branched hydrocarbon has 15 to 19 carbon atoms and the aliphatic branched hydrocarbon has 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
11. The water-in-water emulsion of claim 10, wherein the aliphatic branched hydrocarbon is isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
12. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is at least one polar oil selected from the group consisting of:
esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the esters are fluids,
neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, caprylic/capric/diglycerol succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/butylene glycol dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di C12-13 alkyl tartrate, glyceryl triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate/dipentaerythritol hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, glyceryl tricaprylate, dimethyl isosorbide and/or diisopropyl adipate, and
dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
13. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 12, characterized in that the esters of the fluid are selected from methyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and the dialkyl ether and dialkyl carbonate are dioctyl ether and/or dioctyl carbonate.
14. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion contains a combination of at least one non-polar oil, at least one polar oil and/or at least one silicone oil.
15. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the total oil content is 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
16. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the total oil content is 6 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
17. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is a polydimethylsiloxane-based W/O emulsifier.
18. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 17, characterized in that the polydimethylsiloxane-based W/O emulsifier is selected from lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, and/or cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane.
19. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is a non-silicone based, PEG-free emulsifier.
20. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is selected from glycerol monooleate, polyglycerol-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, and/or diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer linoleate.
21. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is 0.3 to 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
22. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 21, characterized in that the total content of the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
23. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of the at least one powder material is 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
24. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of the at least one powder material is 0.7 to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
25. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises at least one polyol.
26. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 25, characterized in that the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol and/or maltitol.
27. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 26, characterized in that the polyol is selected from glycerol, butanediol and/or propanediol.
28. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 25, characterized in that the total content of the at least one polyol is 3.0 to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
29. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 25, characterized in that the total content of the at least one polyol is 5.0 to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
30. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises at least one colorant, the total content of which is from 0.01% to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
31. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion also contains at least one UV filter selected from the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid.
32. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion further contains at least one UV filter which is phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
33. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 31, characterized in that the total content of the at least one UV filter is 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
34. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 33, characterized in that the total content of the at least one UV filter is 1.0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
35. The water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it is free of cyclomethicone.
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