CN113825485A - Improved fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion - Google Patents
Improved fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113825485A CN113825485A CN202080032416.5A CN202080032416A CN113825485A CN 113825485 A CN113825485 A CN 113825485A CN 202080032416 A CN202080032416 A CN 202080032416A CN 113825485 A CN113825485 A CN 113825485A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- weight
- emulsion
- oil emulsion
- Prior art date
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- Granted
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
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Abstract
The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a water-in-oil emulsion with improved fast-break effect.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and in particular relates to an improved fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion.
Background
In general, an emulsion is understood to be a heterogeneous system consisting of at least two liquids which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with each other and are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (water or oil) is dispersed in the other liquid (oil or water, respectively) in the form of very fine droplets. In emulsions, the droplets (pure liquid or as a solution) are present in a more or less fine distribution. In general, without an emulsifier, emulsions have limited stability.
Water-in-oil emulsions are characterized by aqueous droplets dispersed in a continuous oil phase. Water-in-oil emulsions may be abbreviated as W/O emulsions. In this specification, these two expressions are used synonymously. By "rapidly breaking" is meant that shear forces acting on the respective emulsion formulation by distributing an appropriate amount of the water-in-oil emulsion on the skin and/or massaging the formulation in the skin will break down or "break" the emulsion and release aqueous or emulsion droplets. The release of such droplets produces a refreshing and cooling effect.
The prior art has disclosed water-in-oil emulsions described as "fast breaking". The water-in-oil emulsion according to CN 104968318A, which is fast-breaking, contains specific emulsifiers, i.e. amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane glycerol carbamate and/or diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dilinoleate. The emulsion is free of polyethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
JP 5477883B 2 describes water-in-oil emulsion compositions. According to the teachings of this invention, two different surfactants, a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant, are required to stabilize the emulsion. The powder contained is a hydrophobic powder or a hydrophobized powder.
The product Nivea Men's Water Burst essence (Nivea Men Hydration Water Burst Serum, Mintel number 3478277) is a W/O emulsion characterized by "quick break" upon use. The product contains emulsifier lauryl-PEG-9 polymethyl siloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane. The product was marketed in china since 9 months of 2015.
The product Skin Nutrient coat's Milk Magic Touch, manufactured by Australia Health Research & Development Group, contains the emulsifier PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, which is a fast breaking emulsion.
Analysis of fast breaking W/O emulsions was published in 2008 (Personal Care, Hai Zhou Zhang et al, 3 months 2008, page 45). All exemplary formulations disclosed therein contained the emulsifier ABIL EM 90 (cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
Water-in-oil emulsions with a fast breaking effect provide the consumer with a special application experience. During application, aqueous (water-based) or emulsion droplets become apparent. However, it is sometimes difficult to achieve a perfect rupture effect. If the breaking effect occurs too slowly or only to a low degree, the consumer will not notice the effect of rapidly breaking the water-in-oil emulsion, i.e. the cooling and/or refreshing effect caused by the water-like or emulsion droplets. Furthermore, if the droplets are too small or too large, neither the visual nor tactile impression is perfect.
Fast breaking water-in-oil emulsions generally contain large amounts of water and are very sensitive to changes in temperature and shear; this is why such emulsions break and separate during massage on the skin and then assume the form of aqueous or emulsion droplets.
To improve the breaking effect, the water content in such emulsions can be increased; however, this results in a more unstable composition. To improve stability, more oily components are generally added and the amount of water is reduced. This would lead to a deterioration of the quick break effect after application of such an emulsion on the skin and an oily and greasy sensory impression.
For fast breaking water-in-oil emulsions provided in the form of "milk" or milky lotions, the fast breaking effect must be optimized. Without optimizing the fast-breaking effect, a whitish or white residue on the skin after application of such a composition may result. Consumers do not like this and may not buy such products again.
Therefore, a balance between an optimized fast-breaking effect and sufficient stability of the composition has to be achieved. Moreover, after application of the fast-breaking water-in-oil emulsion, the skin should feel fresh and/or fresh without feeling any oiliness or greasiness. Furthermore, the composition itself should be perceived as a clear, pleasant composition.
Disclosure of Invention
Surprisingly, the fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion is significantly improved by the addition of one or more selected powders. The fast burst effect occurs faster and more pronounced. Furthermore, the sensory impression of the composition itself as well as the feel of the skin is improved.
A fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion comprising:
-at least one powder material selected from starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and respective derivatives thereof,
-an oily phase containing at least one lipid component chosen from at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil,
-an aqueous phase,
-at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of from 2 to 7, wherein the at least one powder material has
-an average particle size of 1 to 100 microns;
-0.05m2g to 100m2Specific surface area per gram;
-an oil absorption of 10 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder to 100 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder, the emulsion can bring the desired improvement.
As mentioned above, the fast-breaking water-in-oil emulsion preferably comprises, relative to the total weight of the emulsion:
-0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one powder material,
-3 to 20% by weight of an oil phase,
-from 60% to 97% by weight of an aqueous phase,
-0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one W/O emulsifier.
As noted above, the formulation of the present invention is a fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion. In the present application, formulations, compositions and emulsions are used interchangeably. By shear forces acting on the emulsion, the emulsion breaks (breaks down) and releases aqueous or emulsion droplets. To achieve this, the formulations of the invention contain considerable water, i.e. from 50 to 97% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Preferably, the formulation of the invention is a cosmetic formulation, more preferably intended to be left on the skin (leave-on).
According to the invention, the fast-breaking water-in-oil emulsion contains an oily phase containing at least one lipid component selected from silicone oils and/or organic liquid oils.
Silicone oils are fluid silicones. Silicones may also be referred to as polysiloxanes. Linear polysiloxanes can be described by the formula
(SiR1 3)–O–(SiR2 2–O-)n–(SiR1 3)，
Wherein R is1And R2Independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, or a C2 to C30 linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, a phenyl group and/or an aryl group; n is an integer of 0 to 50,000 and indicates the amount of siloxane units represented by the formula in the second parenthesis in the complete formula shown above.
Preferably, according to the present invention, the silicone component is represented by the formula shown above, wherein R is1And R2Only methyl groups. Such silicone components are known as polydimethylsiloxanes. Depending on the number of n, polydimethylsiloxanesThe siloxanes may be fluid or rubbery semi-solids. According to the invention, the silicone must be fluid, and therefore advantageously n is an integer from 2 to 2000, preferably from 10 to 400.
Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes can be DM 20 from BRB or Xiaometer PMX-200Silicone Fluid 20cSt from Dow Corning, or Edlement14 PDMS 100 from Momentive.
According to the invention, the formulations of the invention contain at least one organic liquid oil. The organic liquid oil may be polar or non-polar.
The non-polar oil comprises an aliphatic non-branched hydrocarbon having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 19 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon may be included as a component characterized by a particular number of carbon atoms. However, blends containing hydrocarbons having 15 to 19 carbon atoms (e.g., C15-19 alkanes) are preferred. For example, such a blend may be Gemseal 40 available from Total.
Further, the nonpolar oil includes a branched chain hydrocarbon having 12 to 40 carbon atoms in total, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the formulations of the present invention contain isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
More preferred are formulations of the present invention containing one or more aliphatic unbranched hydrocarbons having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, especially as a blend, in combination with one or more branched hydrocarbons having a total of from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
Polar oils include esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with chain lengths of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with chain lengths of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, provided that the esters are fluid. Examples of such ester oils are methyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
Furthermore, the polar oils include neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/propylene glycol dicaprate, caprylic/capric/diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/butylene glycol dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di C12-13 alkyl tartrate, glyceryl triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate/dipentaerythritol hexadecanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, glyceryl tricaprylate, dimethyl isosorbide and/or diisopropyl adipate.
Again, the polar oils include dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous examples being dioctyl ethers (available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Cetiol OE) and dioctyl carbonates (available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Cetiol CC).
Advantageously, a single organic liquid oil may be included in the formulations of the present invention. However, it is also advantageous if two or more organic liquid oils are contained. The organic liquid oil may be selected from one of the groups or from a different group.
Advantageously, the total oil content of the formulation of the invention is between 3% and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation. The total oil content includes the amount of at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil. According to the invention, the amount of oil content may be the same as the content of the oil phase. In the meaning of the present invention, the content of emulsifier is not included in the total oil content.
A single example comprises at least one cyclic polydimethylsiloxane.
Cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes can be characterized by the formula:
wherein n is 3 to 30.
In cosmetic preparations, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes in which n represents 4 to 6 are mainly used. These components have the property of reducing the stickiness of the cosmetic preparation. They are colorless thin fluids.
According to the new evaluation, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) is considered to be likely to affect fertility and to be harmful to aquatic organisms. In addition, degradation is slow and thus the substance accumulates in living organisms.
Cyclopenta-dimethyl siloxane (D5) is highly volatile and can be absorbed and resorbed by the human body.
Thus, the formulations of the present invention are preferably free of cyclomethicone.
Advantageously, the formulations of the present invention do not contain cyclomethicone. In the meaning of the present invention, "free" in connection with cyclomethicone means that less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, more preferably 0% by weight, of the corresponding substance is contained, relative to the total weight of the composition.
To stabilize the emulsion, one or more emulsifiers are generally included.
Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids in a manner that produces a stable formulation, i.e., an emulsion (e.g., oil-in-water). For this purpose, the emulsifier must have amphiphilic properties, the hydrophobic part interacting with the oil or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing, droplets are generated which are dispersed in the respective environment, i.e. aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. First, the emulsifier does not have detersive surfactant properties. The emulsifier reduces the interfacial tension between the two phases and at the same time reduces the interfacial work and also stabilizes the emulsion formed. They stabilize the emulsion by interfacial films and by forming a spatial or electrical barrier, thereby preventing coalescence (coalescence) of the emulsified particles.
The HLB value is suitable for characterizing an emulsifier, which value indicates the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value can be determined by the following formula:
HLB＝20×(1-Mlipophilic nature/M)，
Wherein M isLipophilic natureDenotes the molar mass of the lipophilic part of a given emulsifier, and M denotes the molar mass of the total emulsifier.
Generally, emulsifiers having HLB values up to about 8 are considered W/O emulsifiers. In contrast, the HLB value of O/W emulsifiers is greater than 8 to 15. Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.
Advantageously, according to the invention, said at least one W/O emulsifier is a polydimethylsiloxane-based W/O emulsifier.
A preferred polydimethylsiloxane-based emulsifier is lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, which may be either Dowsil ES 5300Formulation Aid or Dowsil ES 5227Formulation Aid available from Dow Corning.
It is also preferred that the dimethicone based emulsifier is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, which may be Abil EM 90 or Abil EM 180 available from Evonic.
Also advantageously, according to the invention, said at least one W/O emulsifier is a non-silicone based, PEG-free emulsifier. A preferred example of such an emulsifier is glycerol monooleate (available from BASF as
90-O18), polyglycerol-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate (available as ISOLAN GPS), and diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dilinoleate (available as ISOLAN PDI), both of which are available from Evonic corporation.
In the meaning of the present invention, PEG-free means that the corresponding emulsifier does not contain any polyethylene glycol residues. Furthermore, it may be advantageous if the complete formulation of the invention does not contain polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or polyethylene glycol derivatives. In the meaning of the present invention in connection with the aforementioned substances, the term "free" means that the content of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or polyethylene glycol derivatives is less than 1 wt. -%, preferably less than 0.1 wt. -%, more preferably 0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, in the formulation of the invention, the total content of said at least one W/O emulsifier is comprised between 0.3% and 10.0% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
According to the invention, the formulation according to the invention contains at least one powder material selected from the group consisting of starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and their respective derivatives. The at least one powder material must meet certain criteria, namely
-an average particle size of 1 to 100 microns;
-0.05m2g to 100m2Specific surface area per gram; and
-an oil absorption of 10 g oil/100 g powder to 100 g oil/100 g powder.
The average particle size was determined according to ISO13320:2009 using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000.
The specific surface area is the BET surface area determined according to the method of ISO 4652.
Oil absorption was determined according to ISO 4656-1-1992.
The starch powder is selected from modified starch powder, non-modified starch powder and mixtures thereof. Preferably the non-modified starch powder is tapioca starch extracted from a tapioca plant. Tapioca starch is available from akzo nobilas Tapioca Pure.
If the starch powder is selected from modified starches, it is preferred to include tapioca starch and polymethylsilsesquioxane. More preferably, the combination comprises about 98% by weight tapioca starch and about 2% by weight polymethylsilsesquioxane, relative to the starting materials. The starting material can be obtained from Akzo Nobel
TS Starch purchase.
Also preferably, the modified starch is a distarch phosphate, which may be obtained from Solvadis under the trade name Corn PO4 PH "B".
The at least one powder material may be selected from talc, modified talc and/or kaolin.
Talc powder is available from Omya under the tradename Microtalc Pharma 8. TALC modified with magnesium myristate (e.g. TALC N/MM3 supplied by KOBO), TALC modified with stearyl glutamate (e.g. TALC N-ASG4 supplied by KOBO), and TALC treated with polydimethylsiloxane (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) stearic acid (and) ceramide NP (and) phytosterols (e.g. TALC G8-DS-PDL3 supplied by KOBO) are examples of modified TALC.
Kaolin is available from Quarzwerke as Pharmakolin B860 and from Merck as "Weisser Ton innerlich" Art Nr 105006.
In the formulation of the invention, the at least one powdered material is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention also comprises at least one polyol. Polyols contain at least two hydroxyl groups and can incorporate significant amounts of water. Thus, polyols are hygroscopic substances, which may be referred to as moisturizers, which provide moisture to the skin. Examples of suitable polyols are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol. Preferred polyols are glycerol, butanediol and/or propylene glycol.
If at least one polyethylene glycol is present in the composition of the invention, the total content of at least one polyol is preferably from 3.0% to 50.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention also comprises at least one preservative. All preservatives which are permissible and suitable for use in cosmetic preparations may be present. However, it is preferred to contain methylparaben, ethylparaben and phenoxyethanol, or a mixture thereof. In addition, ethanol may be contained. Ethanol has a preservative effect and is often classified as a preservative. Ethanol may be included as denatured alcohol. If ethanol is contained in the formulation of the invention, the amount of ethanol ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Other preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin, may also be used. These preservatives can be used alone or in combination with the preferred preservatives and/or ethanol described above.
If at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention, the total content of the at least one preservative is preferably 0.01 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of ethanol is not included in the above range. The values refer to the active content of the preservative. These values refer to all preservatives except ethanol.
Advantageously, according to the invention, it may also contain components which stabilize the formulation. Preferably, a physiologically compatible salt is contained, more preferably sodium chloride.
If at least one stabilizing component, in particular sodium chloride, is contained in the composition according to the invention, the total content of said at least one stabilizing component, in particular sodium chloride, is preferably comprised between 0.1% and 5.0% by weight, more preferably between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, according to the invention, a complexing component may also be present. Preferably, the complexing component is selected from EDTA, [ S, S ] ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate and/or iminodisuccinic acid. If at least one complexing component is present in the formulations according to the invention, said at least one complexing component is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the invention, the formulations of the invention may also contain colouring agents. The colorant may be in the form of a dye or a pigment. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe)2O3、Fe3O4FeO (OH)), and/or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to select the dyes and/or colour pigments according to the Rowe colour Index (Rowe colour Index) third edition of the Society of Dyers and colourists, British Bradford (Bradford) Society in 1971.
Oil-soluble natural dyes, such as paprika extract, beta-carotene or cochineal, are also advantageous.
If at least one colorant is present in the formulation of the present invention, the at least one colorant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
Advantageously, according to the invention, the formulations of the invention also comprise at least one UV filter, which may be in the form of UV-A, UV-B and/or a broad band filter substance. Optionally, the formulations may also comprise one or more organic and/or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase.
Suitable UV filter substances are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2, 2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers.
Suitable inorganic pigments are metal oxides and/or other metal compounds which are insoluble or sparingly soluble in water, especially Titanium (TiO)2) Zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe)2O3) Zirconium (ZrO)2) Silicon (SiO)2) Manganese (e.g., MnO), aluminum (Al)2O3) Cerium (e.g. Ce)2O3) Of the corresponding metal, and mixtures of such oxides, and also barium sulfate (BaSO)4)。
Suitable UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS number 70356-09-1).
Other suitable UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are sulfonated water-soluble UV filters, for example:
omicron phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid and salts thereof, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, in particular phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt, the INCI name being disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonic acid (CAS number: 180898-37-7);
o 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, for example its sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salt, and the sulfonic acid itself, with INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS number 27503-81-7);
omicron 1, 4-bis (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylenemethyl) benzene (aka: 3,3' - (1, 4-phenylene-dimethylene) bis (7, 7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof (in particular the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), the INCI name of benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid, benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid (CAS No.: 90457-82-2);
sulfonic acid derivatives of o 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Other suitable UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also the so-called broadband filters, i.e. filter substances which absorb both UV-a and UV-B radiation. Examples of broadband filter or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, for example,
o 2, 4-bis { [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine);
dioctyl butyl amide triazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone);
omicron tris (2-ethylhexyl) 4,4',4"- (1,3, 5-triazine-2, 4, 6-triyltrimethylamino) tribenzoate, also known as: 2,4, 6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2 '-ethyl-1' -hexyloxy) ] -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone);
o 2- [4, 6-bis (2, 4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS number: 2725-22-6).
In addition, 2' -methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3, 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: methylenebis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl phenol) may be included in the formulations of the present invention.
Furthermore, the formulations of the present invention may contain 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [ 2-methyl-3- [1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl ] propyl ] phenol (CAS number: 155633-54-8), INCI name cresol troxazole trisiloxane.
If at least one UV filter is contained in the formulation according to the invention, it is present in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
The formulations of the invention preferably have a pH of 4 to 8. The pH is adjusted by any suitable, physiologically acceptable means, however it is preferred that the pH is adjusted by an inorganic base such as sodium hydroxide.
Cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants normally included in such preparations, such as preservative adjuvants, fragrances, and other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic formulations.
Detailed Description
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it. The values in the examples are given as weight percent based on the total weight of the particular formulation, in active content.
Preparation method
The compositions of the present invention may be prepared by any known or effective technique for preparing "fast-breaking" water-in-oil emulsions. Methods of preparing the compositions of the present invention include conventional formulation and mixing techniques.
Test method
The formulations of example 1.1 and comparative examples (without powder starting material) were prepared and compared with a commercially available product Nivea Men's Water bursting essence (Nivea Men Hydrating Water Burst Serum). The INCI list of the nivea man hydration and burst essence discloses the following components: water, glycerin, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, propylene glycol, sodium chloride, sodium hyaluronate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerol glucoside, dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) root extract, Fucus Vesiculosus (Fucus Vesiculosus) extract, sea mud (Maris Limus) extract, oyster shell extract, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, perfume.
Sensory panel evaluations were performed using the formulations. The evaluation was carried out according to the following method:
-panelists: evaluation was performed by 10 trained panelists. Panelists were assessed to have normal skin characteristics and the tests were performed on their arms.
-Evaluation group room: temperature: 23-27 ℃, humidity: 50 to 60 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
-Procedure：
o evaluation panelists sit at the table for 10 minutes (environmental adaptation time).
Coating the skin area of the corresponding product with the stamp mark. Each arm is labeled with at most 3 regions, each region being coated with a product. A total of 6 products (including 1 standard product providing a calibration score) can be evaluated at one panel evaluation.
The panelists assigned one product per marked area and activated a buzzer (beeper) to massage the product at a certain frequency.
Omicron panelists started the timer and massaged the product, while evaluating sensory criteria during coating. Immediately after absorption the skin was touched and sensory criteria were evaluated.
-Grade：
Water breaking time (Water breaking time): calculated by the number of massage turns.
Omicron: 0: very dry, 10: it is in the form of water.
Less oily: 0: very oily, 10: it was not oily at all.
Less greasy: 0: extremely greasy, 10: it is not greasy at all.
O few residues: 0: bulk residue, 10: clean without residue.
Smoothness: 0: roughness and smoothness, 10: it is extremely smooth.
The following table shows the evaluation results.
It is clear that the water burst time of the formulations of the examples of the invention is shorter than that of the formulations without powder and the commercial products; evaluation of the "water-like" quality showed similar results. The formulations of the present invention were evaluated to be approximately in the same range as the comparative formulations and the commercial products with respect to smoothness, residue left on the skin, and greasy feel. The formulations of the present invention were evaluated as less oily than the commercial product and the comparative formulation. The results show that the product of the invention solves the above mentioned problems, i.e. provides a significantly higher (better) breaking effect and a higher amount of water to the skin, resulting in a rather cooling and refreshing effect.
In addition, stability was also analyzed.
To evaluate long-term storage, the example formulations (examples 1.1, 1 to 12) were prepared and filled into 50ml clear glass bottles with plastic caps. The comparative product (Nivea men's water-swelling essence) was contained in the same glass bottle. The test samples were stored as indicated below.
OK means no significant water or oil separation, no discoloration.
Claims (20)
1. A fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion comprising
-at least one powder material selected from starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and respective derivatives thereof,
-an oily phase containing at least one lipid component chosen from at least one silicone oil and/or at least one organic liquid oil,
-an aqueous phase,
-at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of from 2 to 7, wherein the at least one powder material has:
an average particle size of 1 micron to 100 microns;
·0.05m2g to 100m2Specific surface area per gram;
oil absorption from 10 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder to 100 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder.
2. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the emulsion:
0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one powder material,
3 to 20% by weight of an oil phase,
70 to 97% by weight of an aqueous phase,
0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one W/O emulsifier.
3. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of water is from 50 to 97% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
4. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsion is a cosmetic preparation, preferably intended to be left on the skin (leave-on).
5. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is at least one silicone oil, preferably a polydimethylsiloxane having 2 to 2000 siloxane units, in particular 10 to 400 siloxane units.
6. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one organic liquid oil is at least one non-polar organic oil selected from the group consisting of:
-an aliphatic unbranched hydrocarbon having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and/or
Aliphatic branched hydrocarbons having a total of from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably isohexadecane and/or isododecane.
7. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one organic liquid oil is at least one polar oil selected from:
esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the esters are fluids, preferably selected from methyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate,
-neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/propylene glycol dicaprate, caprylic/capric succinate/diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/butylene glycol dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di C12-13 alkyl tartrate, glyceryl triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate/dipentaerythritol hexadecanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, glyceryl tricaprylate, dimethyl isosorbide and/or diisopropyl adipate, and
dialkyl ethers and carbonates, preferably dioctyl ether and/or dioctyl carbonate.
8. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains a combination of at least one apolar oil, at least one polar oil and/or at least one silicone oil.
9. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total oil content is from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
10. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of from 2 to 7 is a polydimethylsiloxane-based W/O emulsifier, preferably lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, and/or cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane.
11. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of 2 to 7 is a non silicone based, PEG free emulsifier, preferably glycerol monooleate, polyglycerol-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and/or diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dilinoleate.
12. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of said at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value of from 2 to 7 is from 0.3% to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
13. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of said at least one powder material is comprised between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
14. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further contains at least one polyol, preferably selected from propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, more preferably selected from glycerol, butylene glycol and/or propylene glycol.
15. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 14, characterized in that the total content of the at least one polyol is from 3.0 to 50.0 wt. -%, more preferably from 5.0 to 20.0 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
16. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further comprises at least one colorant, preferably in a total content of 0.01% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
17. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion further contains at least one UV filter, preferably selected from salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, more preferably phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
18. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 17, characterized in that the total content of the at least one UV filter is from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
19. Water-in-oil emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsion is free of cyclomethicone.
20. Use of at least one powder material selected from starch powder, modified starch powder, talc, kaolin and their respective derivatives, the specification of said powder material being as follows, for improving the fast breaking effect of a fast breaking water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 19:
an average particle size of 1 to 100 microns;
specific surface area of 0.05m2G to 100m2/g；
Oil absorption from 10 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder to 100 grams of oil per 100 grams of powder.
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| CNPCT/CN2019/086727 | 2019-05-14 | ||
| PCT/CN2019/086727 WO2020227909A1 (en) | 2019-05-14 | 2019-05-14 | Improved quick breaking water-in-oil emulsion |
| PCT/EP2020/060670 WO2020229083A1 (en) | 2019-05-14 | 2020-04-16 | An improved quick breaking water-in-oil emulsion |
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| US20030017176A1 (en) * | 1999-05-27 | 2003-01-23 | Andreas Bleckmann | Preparations of the W/O emulsion type with an increased water content, comprising moderately polar lipids and silicone emulsifiers and, if desired, cationic polymers |
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| DE19826750A1 (en) * | 1998-06-16 | 1999-12-23 | Beiersdorf Ag | Compositions of emulsion type W / O with increased water content, further comprising one or more alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols |
| DE10326899A1 (en) * | 2003-06-14 | 2004-12-30 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic preparations with stabilized preservatives |
| DE102012222797A1 (en) * | 2012-12-11 | 2014-06-12 | Beiersdorf Ag | Quick Breaking Emulsion |
| US20180280279A1 (en) * | 2017-03-31 | 2018-10-04 | L'oreal | Soap and surfactant free shave lotion composition |
| DE102017212626A1 (en) * | 2017-07-24 | 2019-01-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Water-in-oil emulsions based on cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyldimethicone as an emulsifier, which have a content of one or more particulate and / or non-water-swellable starches and / or starch derivatives |
-
2019
- 2019-05-14 WO PCT/CN2019/086727 patent/WO2020227909A1/en active Application Filing
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| US20010012860A1 (en) * | 1998-11-12 | 2001-08-09 | Andreas Bleckmann | Preparation of the w/o emulsion type with an increased water content, additionally comprising one or more alkylmethicone copolyols and/or alkyldimethicone copolyols, and cationic polymers |
| US20030017176A1 (en) * | 1999-05-27 | 2003-01-23 | Andreas Bleckmann | Preparations of the W/O emulsion type with an increased water content, comprising moderately polar lipids and silicone emulsifiers and, if desired, cationic polymers |
| US20100061946A1 (en) * | 2006-11-21 | 2010-03-11 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic formulation having glucosyl glycerides and selected perfume substances |
| JP2008208045A (en) * | 2007-02-23 | 2008-09-11 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Water-in-oil type emulsion composition |
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| WO2020229083A1 (en) | 2020-11-19 |
| WO2020227909A1 (en) | 2020-11-19 |
| CN113825485B (en) | 2023-11-28 |
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