JP2011126832A - Water in oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a water in oil type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic having a high ultraviolet light-protecting effect and also excellent in waterproofness and usability. <P>SOLUTION: The water in oil type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic containing 35 to 75 mass% oil phase is provided by blending 10 to 50 mass% ultraviolet light absorber and 20 to 60 mass% volatile oil content based on the total amount of the oil phase, and further blending 0.5 to 2 mass% dextrin fatty acid ester and/or sucrose fatty acid ester based on the total amount of the cosmetic. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a high SPF water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic excellent in water resistance and usability.

  Sunscreen cosmetics usually contain UV absorbers and UV scattering agents (inorganic powders such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) in order to obtain high SPF (Sun Protection Factor) values by blocking UV irradiation on the skin. A water-in-oil (WO) type composition containing an ultraviolet absorber and an ultraviolet scattering agent is known as a high SPF sunscreen cosmetic that is blended and has particularly excellent water resistance. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a sunscreen cosmetic that has an ultraviolet protective effect improved by adding 0.25 to 1.5% by mass of octyl methoxycinnamate to the total amount of the cosmetic in the UV scattering agent. Are listed. However, the water-in-oil composition containing the ultraviolet absorber and the ultraviolet scattering agent in the prior art has a problem that when applied to the skin with the ultraviolet scattering agent, a squeaky feeling or whitening occurs and the usability is poor. .

  If an attempt is made to produce a high SPF water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic without blending an ultraviolet scattering agent, it is necessary to blend a high amount of an ultraviolet absorber, resulting in oiliness and stickiness, resulting in poor usability. In addition, oil-in-water (OW) type sunscreen cosmetics that do not contain UV scattering agents are also known (for example, Patent Document 2), but these oil-in-water sunscreen cosmetics have a problem of poor water resistance. is there.

  Regarding improvement in usability and the like in water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics, for example, Patent Document 3 uses an oily base containing silicone oil and water, and an emulsifier made of polyether alkyl-modified silicone and dextrin fatty acid ester. It is described that an emulsion of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics excellent in stability, feeling of use, and spread can be obtained by emulsifying, but the oilyness when the UV absorber is highly blended is described. No improvement of stickiness has been reported.

JP 2003-327521 A JP 2009-234996 A Japanese Patent No. 3220177

  In view of the circumstances as described above, an object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic that has a higher UV protection effect and is excellent in water resistance and usability. .

  In the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics, the present inventor contains 10 to 50% by weight of an ultraviolet absorber and 20 to 60% by weight of volatile oil in the oil phase, and dextrin fatty acid ester and / or By blending sucrose fatty acid esters, it is possible to achieve very high SPF values without the need for blending UV scattering agents, and there is little oiliness and stickiness, and in high-SPF oils with excellent usability and usability. It is based on the discovery that water-based emulsified sunscreen cosmetics can be prepared. That is, by blending the dextrin fatty acid ester and / or the sucrose fatty acid ester, the UV absorber was highly blended without impairing the usability, and a high SPF value could be achieved.

  It has not been known at all that oily and sticky can be suppressed even if a high amount of UV absorber is blended in water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics by blending dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester. .

  The present invention is a water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic containing 35 to 75% by mass of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase is 10 to 50% by mass of the ultraviolet absorber and 20 to 60% by mass with respect to the total amount of the oil phase. % Volatile oil content, and further, dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

  The water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention may further contain an ultraviolet scattering agent as necessary, but the blending amount thereof is 5% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic from the viewpoint of use feeling and the like. Preferably there is.

  The ultraviolet absorber used in the present invention is preferably octylmethoxycinnamate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, octocrylene, dimethicodiethylbenzylmalonate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine and 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone. One or more selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxycinnamate and / or hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate.

  The volatile oil used in the present invention preferably contains one or more selected from the group consisting of cyclic alkylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, isododecane, isohexadecane and caprylylmethicone.

  The water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention has a high UV protection effect because it contains a high amount of UV absorber, and also has good spread and water resistance because it is a water-in-oil composition having the above-described configuration. Are better. Furthermore, even though it is a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that can achieve a high SPF value without blending a large amount of UV scattering agent that causes creaking or whitening, it is a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing a high amount of UV absorber. This makes it possible to provide a high SPF water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic that has little tingling and stickiness and is excellent in water resistance and usability.

  The ultraviolet absorbent used in the present invention is an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbent and is not particularly limited as long as it can be blended in cosmetics. For example, octylmethoxycinnamate, octocrylene, t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyltriazone, methylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silylisopentyl trimethoxycinnamate , Hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethyl glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate, dimethicodiethylbenzyl malonate (also known as Polysilicone-15), 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone (also known as oxybenzone-3), etc. Is exemplified.

  Preferably, the UV absorbers used in the present invention are octyl methoxycinnamate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, octocrylene, dimethicodiethylbenzyl malonate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone. One or more selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxycinnamate and / or hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate. All of these ultraviolet absorbers are commercially available. For example, Parsol MCX (DSM) as octyl methoxycinnamate, Uvinul A plus (BASF) as hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, Uvinul N539T (BASF), dimethylene as octocrylene. Persol SLX (DSM) as codiethylbenzyl malonate, TINOSORB (registered trademark) S (Ciba Japan Co., Ltd.) as bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ASL-24 (Sankyo Kasei) as 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone And commercial products such as Uvinul M40 (BASF) can be preferably used. By using these ultraviolet absorbers, a higher ultraviolet protective effect can be provided.

  In the present invention, the ultraviolet absorber may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The compounding quantity of the ultraviolet absorber in the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics of this invention is 10-50 mass% with respect to the total amount of an oil phase, Preferably it is 25-40 mass%. If the blending amount of the UV absorber is less than 10% by mass in the oil phase, a sufficient UV protection effect cannot be achieved, and if it exceeds 50% by mass, oily and sticky tend to occur.

  The volatile oil in the present invention means a component having a boiling point in the range of 60 to 260 ° C. at normal pressure. Examples of the volatile oil used in the present invention include volatile silicone base oil and hydrocarbon base oil.

  Examples of volatile silicone base oils include chain polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5 cs), methylphenyl polysiloxane, and methylhydrogen polysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexane. Examples thereof include cyclic polysiloxanes such as sasiloxane, tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane, and caprylylmethicone. Examples of these products include KF96L-0.65, KF96L-1, KF96L-1.5, KF995 (Shin-Etsu Chemical), SH200-1cs, SH200-1.5cs, SH200-2cs, 2-1184 Fluid, and SH245 Fluid. DC246 Fluid, DC345 Fluid, SS3408 (Toray Dow Corning), TSF404, TSF405, TSF4045 (Toshiba Silicone) and the like.

  Moreover, as a volatile hydrocarbon base oil used for this invention, you may use a linear or branched thing. Examples of such volatile hydrocarbon base oils include C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) such as isodecane, isododecane, and isohexadecane. Examples of these products include, for example, Isopar (registered trademark) A, C, D, E, G, H, K, L, M (Exxon), Shellzole (registered trademark) 71 (Shell), Saltol (registered trademark) 100, 130, 220 (Philip), Isozol (registered trademark) 400 (Nippon Petrochemical), Parream (registered trademark) 4 (Nippon Yushi) , IP Solvent (registered trademark) 1620, 2028 (Idemitsu Petrochemical), isohexadecane, tetraisobutane 90 (Bayer), Permethyl (registered trademark) 99A, 101A, 102A (Press Perth), etc. It is done.

  Preferably, the volatile oil used in the present invention comprises one or more selected from cyclic alkyl polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane, isododecane, isohexadecane and caprylyl methicone. By using these volatile oils, it is possible to provide a better feeling and usability.

  In the present invention, the volatile oil may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The compounding amount of the volatile oil in the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention is 20 to 60% by mass, more preferably 25 to 55% by mass, and still more preferably 30 to the total amount of the oil phase. -40 mass%. If the blending amount of the volatile oil is less than 20% by mass in the oil phase, the spread of the volatile oil is poor and the finish is not uniform, and if it exceeds 60% by mass, the familiarity with the skin is deteriorated.

  The water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention contains 0.5 to 2% by mass of dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic together with the ultraviolet absorber and the volatile oil. To do. By blending the dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester in such an amount, oiliness and stickiness can be suppressed even if the ultraviolet absorber is highly blended in a water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic. . If the blending amount is less than 0.5% by mass, an oily feeling or stickiness occurs, and if it exceeds 2% by mass, the viscosity increases and the usability deteriorates.

  The dextrin fatty acid ester used in the present invention is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin and a higher fatty acid and can be used without particular limitation as long as it is generally used in cosmetics. The average sugar polymerization degree of dextrin or reduced dextrin is preferably 3 to 100. In addition, as the constituent fatty acid of the dextrin fatty acid ester, it is preferable to use a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Specifically, lauric acid dextrin, palmitic acid dextrin, myristic acid dextrin, stearic acid dextrin, behenic acid dextrin, coconut oil fatty acid dextrin, and the like can be used alone or in combination.

  For example, a dextrin having an average sugar polymerization degree of 3 to 100 or one or more of a reduced dextrin and one or more of saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms with a tertiary amine as a catalyst and dextrin In the presence of one or more of water or alcohol at 3.0 to 50.0% by mass with respect to the total amount of the reaction, the substitution degree of the saturated fatty acid is 1.2 to 2.4 per glucose unit of dextrin. And dextrin fatty acid ester obtained by esterification and dextrin fatty acid ester obtained by washing the dextrin fatty acid ester with water and alcohol can be preferably used. Alternatively, dextrin fatty acid esters marketed as “Leopard KL”, “Leopard MKL”, “Leopard TT” (all of which are manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) and the like can be suitably used.

  In addition, as the sucrose fatty acid ester used in the present invention, a linear or branched fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, can be preferably used. Specifically, sucrose caprylate, sucrose caprate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic ester, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose elca Acid ester etc. are illustrated and these can be used 1 type or in combination of 2 or more types. For example, “Cosmelike SA-10” (acetate stearic acid scroll) and “Cosmelike MX-10” (sucrose mixed fatty acid ester) (both manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.), “Cloesta 4-IS” (Croda) Commercially available products such as “Japan Inc.” (sucrose tetraisostearate) can be preferably used in the present invention.

  The water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention may further contain an ultraviolet scattering agent used for cosmetics such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide as necessary, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. However, from the viewpoint of feeling of use such as squeakiness and whitening, the blending amount is preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and still more preferably 1% by mass or less. Preferably, no ultraviolet scattering agent is contained.

  The water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention contains 35 to 75% by mass of an oil phase, more preferably 40 to 60% by mass. By including the oil phase in such a range, the spread is good and the water resistance and usability are excellent.

  For example, other oily components include, but are not limited to, octyl palmitate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, polyoxybutylene polyoxypropylene glycol, 8 (or 9) methylheptadecane Acid, diisopropyl sebacate, dimethylpolysiloxane (6cs) and the like can be preferably used in the present invention.

  Further, in addition to the oil-soluble UV absorber, a water-soluble UV absorber can be blended as necessary. Examples of the water-soluble UV absorber include 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone and 2,2′-dihydroxy-4. -Benzophenone ultraviolet absorbers such as methoxybenzophenone; benzimidazole ultraviolet absorbers such as phenylbenzoimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salt, phenylenebisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonic acid and its salt; urocanic acid, urocanic acid ethyl ester, Examples include 2,2- (1,4-phenylene) bis- (1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid), terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, and the like.

  The water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetics of the present invention are components other than the above components, which are usually used in cosmetics, for example, surfactants, chelating agents, whitening agents, moisturizers, antioxidants, alcohols , Thickeners, colorants, various powder components, various oil components, various aqueous components and the like can be appropriately blended as necessary, and prepared into a water-in-oil emulsion composition by a conventional method.

  Although it does not specifically limit as a product form of the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics of this invention, Product forms, such as ointment, cream, milky lotion, lotion, are mentioned.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not limited to the following Example. The blending amount is% (mass percentage) unless otherwise specified.

  A water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic (milky sunscreen) with the formulation shown in Table 1 below was produced by a conventional method, and the usability (usability) when applied to the skin was evaluated by the following method. .

Preparation of water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic The oil phase components were mixed, heated to 80 ° C. and dispersed with a homomixer. Powder is added to this dispersion to prepare an oil phase part. Furthermore, the mixture is sufficiently mixed and dispersed using a homomixer. The aqueous component is mixed and dissolved to prepare the aqueous phase. While stirring with a homomixer, the water phase portion was gradually added to the oil phase portion, and the mixture was further sufficiently stirred with a homomixer to prepare a sample.

Evaluation evaluation of usability Ten panelists specializing in evaluation conducted sensory tests by actually using sunscreen cosmetics, and evaluated usability (oiliness and familiarity) according to the following evaluation criteria:
○: 7-10 panel evaluated as good Δ: 4-6 panel evaluated as good x: 0-3 panel evaluated as good.

  As is apparent from the results shown in Table 1, the oil phase contains 35 to 75% by mass of an oil phase, and the oil phase contains 10 to 50% by mass of an ultraviolet absorber and 20 to 60% by mass of volatile oil. Furthermore, the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics of Example 1-8 containing 0.5-2% by mass of dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester are not oily and have good skin familiarity. It was excellent in usability and usability. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which the proportion of the oil phase is less than 35% by mass or more than 75% by mass, Comparative Example 3 containing neither dextrin fatty acid ester nor sucrose fatty acid ester, or the amount of volatile oil is In Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which were less than 20% by mass or more than 60% by mass, the usability was poor.

  Furthermore, the sunscreen cosmetics of the above examples were also evaluated for UV protection effect (SPF value) according to the JCIA method.

Evaluation of UV protection effect (SPF) A sunscreen cosmetic was applied on a transparent tape at an application amount of ² mg / cm ² to prepare an evaluation sample. This evaluation sample is inserted between a solar simulator manufactured by Solar Light Co., Ltd., which is a light source having almost the same spectrum as sunlight in the ultraviolet region, and a spectrum obtained by the presence or absence of the evaluation sample is compared. (Light simulation value) was calculated to evaluate the UV protection effect. The calculation method from each spectrum is the same as the method described in paragraph numbers “0076” and “0077” of Japanese Patent Publication No. 6-27064.

  The SPF value of the composition of Example 3 is 59, and the compositions of other examples also show a high SPF value of 50 or more, and the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention has a very high ultraviolet ray. Has an inhibitory effect.

  Below, the formulation example of the water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetics of this invention is shown as an Example. All compounding amounts were expressed in terms of mass% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, and were prepared according to the same method as described above.

Example 9: Water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic (sunscreen)
(Component) Blending amount (% by mass)
Octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX (DSM)) 7
Dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5cs) 3
Cyclic alkylpolysiloxane (DC246Fluid (Toray Dow Corning)) 20
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 3
Dextrin palmitate (Leopearl KL (Chiba Milling)) 0.5
Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 5
Squalane 1
Polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer 2
Aluminum stearate coated titanium oxide 1
Silicone resin powder 5
Talc 2
Spherical nylon powder 1
Edetate glycerin 1
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Oil-soluble licorice extract 0.5
Paraben Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite 0.8
General alcohol 95 degree synthesis 6
Ion exchange water

Example 10: Two-layer water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetic (sunscreen)
(Component) Blending amount (% by mass)
Octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX (DSM)) 7.5
Dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5cs) 5
Cyclic alkylpolysiloxane (DC246Fluid (Toray Dow Corning)) 15
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 5
Sucrose mixed fatty acid ester (Cosmelike MX-10 (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku)) 0.5
Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 5
Diisopropyl sebacate 5
Polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer 5
Octyltriethoxysilane coated fine particle zinc oxide 15
Polyalkylsilsesquioxane 5
Edetate salt dipropylene glycol 5
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.02
Glutathione 1
Thiotaurine 0.05
Clara extract 1
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 3
Triethanolamine 1.7
Paraben Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite 0.5
Perfume Appropriate amount of ion-exchanged water

Example 11: Water-in-oil emulsion sunscreen cosmetic (sunscreen)
(Component) Blending amount (% by mass)
Octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX (DSM)) 7.5
Octocrylene (Uvinul N539T (BASF)) 5
Dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5cs) 20
Cyclic alkylpolysiloxane (DC246Fluid (Toray Dow Corning)) 20
Sucrose mixed fatty acid ester (Cosmelike MX-10 (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku)) 0.5
Diisopropyl sebacate 5
Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 5
Octyl palmitate 2
Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 2
Octyltriethoxysilane coated fine particle zinc oxide 5
Silicone resin powder 5
Edetate glycerin appropriate amount 5
Dipropylene glycol 1
Ascorbic acid 0.01
General alcohol 95 degree synthesis 6
Perfume Appropriate amount of ion-exchanged water

  All of the water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetics of the above examples had a high UV protection effect (SPF value), had no oiliness, and had good skin feel and excellent usability and usability. .

Claims (5)

A water-in-oil emulsion sunscreen cosmetic comprising 35 to 75% by mass of an oil phase, wherein the oil phase is 10 to 50% by mass of an ultraviolet absorber and 20 to 60% by mass of volatilization with respect to the total amount of the oil phase. A water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic comprising a natural oil component and further containing dextrin fatty acid ester and / or sucrose fatty acid ester in an amount of 0.5 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. The water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the blending amount of the ultraviolet scattering agent is 5% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic. 1 wherein the UV absorber is selected from the group consisting of octylmethoxycinnamate, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, octocrylene, dimethicodiethylbenzylmalonate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine and 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone. The water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, comprising seeds or two or more kinds. The water-in-oil emulsion sunscreen cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the ultraviolet absorber comprises octyl methoxycinnamate and / or hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate. The volatile oil component contains one or more selected from the group consisting of cyclic alkylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, isododecane, isohexadecane and caprylylmethicone. 1. A water-in-oil type emulsion sunscreen cosmetic according to item 1.