CN1138032C - Dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabric and fine spun wool and terylene fabric - Google Patents

Dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabric and fine spun wool and terylene fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1138032C
CN1138032C CNB981246966A CN98124696A CN1138032C CN 1138032 C CN1138032 C CN 1138032C CN B981246966 A CNB981246966 A CN B981246966A CN 98124696 A CN98124696 A CN 98124696A CN 1138032 C CN1138032 C CN 1138032C
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China
Prior art keywords
fabric
agent
dyeing
setting agent
sodium
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Expired - Fee Related
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CNB981246966A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN1259597A (en
Inventor
张建春
施楣梧
杨廷欣
郝新敏
朱荣丽
蒋蕾
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Technique Development Dept Military Supplies And Equipments Inst General
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Technique Development Dept Military Supplies And Equipments Inst General
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Priority to CNB981246966A priority Critical patent/CN1138032C/en
Publication of CN1259597A publication Critical patent/CN1259597A/en
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabrics and fine spun wool and terylene fabrics. The method comprises the following steps: continuously introducing the grey cloth of the fabrics into a shaping machine; adding shaping agents into a liquid rolling tank at the inlet of the shaping machine; applying the shaping agents to the grey cloth by using a roller; uniformly rolling the shaping agents into fabric weave by using the roller; putting the fabrics processed by the shaping agents into the shaping machine for baking processing. The speed of the shaping machine is 16-32 m/min., and the baking and processing temperature in the shaping machine is 110 to 140 DEG C. The fabrics are further processed by conventional processing steps of woolen washing, dyeing, finishing agent rolling (rolling softening agents and antistatic agents), baking and shaping, and decating.

Description

The dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric
The present invention relates to the dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric.
Worsted fabric or hair polyester fabric because of its outward appearance and feel requirement, need fabric is carried out suitable stabilised finish.The setting of wool is under damp and hot and chemical agent condition, utilize external force with in the big molecule of wool and big intermolecular primary bond and secondary bond open, and set up new cross linkage in new position, make wool be stable at suitable equilbrium position.Polyster fibre in the hair polyester fabric also obtains desirable equilbrium position by heat setting.The conventional dyeing and finishing technology flow process of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric comprises substantially:
Grey cloth---crabbing---braying---(crabbing)---dyeing---baking is fixed---decatizing
Wherein crabbing manufacturing procedure, it is the hot hydrosetting characteristic of utilizing wool, under certain tension force, entirely twist on the mandrel wool fabric, digestion certain hour in hot water, break agent and rebuild agent with hot water and steam as wool cutin cross linkage, wool is formalized in hot water or steam, cooling then, the size and the form of fabric just are fixed up.
On the other hand, wool fibre is subjected to force-extension in fabrication processes, and this external force is uneven, thereby produces uneven creep, leaves over down the internal stress of inhomogeneous contraction.Can promote retraction when grey cloth is subjected to lax humid heat treatment, the result causes cloth cover uneven, forms faults such as cock skin wrinkle, walnut line, cloth cover width be uneven.If grey cloth through crabbing, can make fabric internal stress homogenizing or disappearance under certain tension force, prevent to produce above-mentioned fault.
Worsted fabric is after crabbing, and the flexural wave setting through weft yarn is fixed the crosspoint, and lines is clear, handles even if carry out rope form, also is difficult for producing the yarn displacement or generates folding line etc.If the fabric of handling through rope form generates folding line, also can correct by crabbing.
From above several respects, crabbing technology has the effect of smooth processing.
In addition, worsted fabric also can improve coloration of textile materials after crabbing.Wool through humid heat treatment has the engrain effect of absorbing dye better.Therefore prepare the effect of processing before crabbing technology plays and dyes.Fabric can change feel after crabbing.Especially top-weight fabric after stronger crabbing setting, can make the fabric smooth exquisiteness that becomes, and is smooth to the touch, endure, feels well, approaches and full of elasticity, and gloss is lasting.Therefore crabbing technology has the effect of thin very style processing again.
In the dyeing and finishing processing of worsted fabric and hair polyester fabric, the effect of crabbing operation is very big, but long (generally being at least 20-30 minute of the time of this working procedure processing, even 1-2 hour), production efficiency is low, and needs continuous high temperature to handle, energy consumption height, production cost are very high, and fiber is had than macrolesion.
The purpose of this invention is to provide the dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric, this method has been cancelled the crabbing operation, thereby shortened process is accelerated dyeing and finishing speed, enhances productivity.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this: the dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric, the grey cloth of described fabric is imported boarding machine continuously, in the mangle groove of this boarding machine porch, add setting agent, apply setting agent by roll to grey cloth, roll is rolled into setting agent in the described fabric tissue equably, described fabric after setting agent is handled enters boarding machine dries processing, the speed of a motor vehicle of described boarding machine be 16-32 rice/minute, the oven dry treatment temperature is 110-140 ℃ in the described boarding machine, and described fabric is handled through the braying of routine after handling through formalizing again, dyeing is handled, roll the finishing agent processing and (be rolled into softener, antistatic additive), baking is fixed to be handled and the decatizing processing.
Compared with the prior art the utility model has following advantage:
1, be applicable to pure wool, at high proportion the hair wash and the low-ratio wool polyester fabric;
2, worsted fabric or spinning hair polyester fabric dyeing and finishing technology flow process are shortened, speed up, equipment investment reduces, and production efficiency is improved thereupon;
3, do not need the required continuous high temperature of crabbing technology, cut down the consumption of energy, thereby reduced the dyeing and finishing processing cost;
4, the setting effect is better, and can improve the fabric wet elasticity, promotes gloss, and feel is smooth.
Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is further described:
Embodiment one (2# fabric)
Used fabric: washing valetin for 45/55 mao, below is example with this fabric all.
The grey cloth of described fabric is led people's boarding machine continuously, in the mangle groove at this boarding machine population place, add setting agent and apply setting agent to grey cloth by roll, roll is rolled into setting agent in the described fabric tissue equably, described fabric after setting agent is handled enters boarding machine dries processing, the speed of a motor vehicle of described boarding machine be 16-32 rice/minute, the oven dry treatment temperature is 110-140 ℃ in the described boarding machine, the best speed of a motor vehicle is 24 meters/minute, optimum treatmenting temperature is 130 ℃, described fabric is handled through the braying of routine after handling through formalizing again, dyeing is handled, roll the finishing agent processing and (be rolled into softener, antistatic additive), baking is fixed to be handled and the decatizing processing, described setting agent can be sodium sulfite or sulfo-caustic alcohol, also can be by sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent is formed.The used setting agent raw materials in part by weight ratio of the present invention is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 5-15
Ammonium acetate 6-14
Sodium tetraborate 6-16
Bleeding agent 0.2-1.5
Transfer pH value=5.4-6.4 with acetic acid.
Pick-up 65-90%
The proportioning raw materials of present embodiment is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 10 gram/litres
Ammonium acetate 8 gram/litres
Sodium tetraborate 8 gram/litres
Bleeding agent 1.0 gram/litres
Transfer pH value=6 with acetic acid.
Wherein, ammonium acetate can replace with the ethanol ammonium.
Pick-up 80%
Adopt Br ü cker setting machine.
Present embodiment replaces crabbing technology with the method that applies setting agent, promptly promotes the key point and the process of reconstruction of wool by chemical agent, is called " chemistry setting ".Used setting agent should meet following requirement: must be effective open chain agent, can tear chain rapidly open, and also chain link then, effect is lasting, and fiber is not hindered in anti-dry-cleaning washing, does not change the dyestuff degree of depth and coloured light, and is safe and reliable, etching apparatus not, expense is more honest and cleaner.
Embodiment two (3# fabric)
The grey cloth of described fabric is put into dolly carry out the braying processing, import rapid steamer then continuously, evaporate processing by rapid steamer, evaporating treatment temperature is 110-160 ℃, evaporating the processing optimum temperature is 130 ℃, and evaporating the processing time is 90-150 second, and it is 90 seconds that the best is evaporated the processing time.Finishing agent processing (being rolled into softener, antistatic additive) is handled, is rolled in dyeing through routine to described fabric again after evaporating processing, baking is decided to handle and decatizing is handled.
Utilize the decatizing of rapid ageing machine to realize the physics setting, replace crabbing technology.FB 29 rapid steamers that present embodiment uses German Gao Erle company to produce, this machine is former to be to carrying out the Special Equipment of decatize after textile printing or the dyeing, be used for improving fabric COLOR FASTNESS and vividness.In the present embodiment, this rapid steamer provides the decatize condition of certain temperature and humidity.Utilize this temperature, humidity that worsted fabric or spinning hair polyester fabric are handled, can replace crabbing technology, fabric is formalized fast, improve feel.
Embodiment three (4# fabric)
The grey cloth of described fabric is led people's rapid steamer continuously, in the mangle groove of this rapid steamer porch, add setting agent, apply setting agent by roll to grey cloth, roll is rolled into setting agent in the described fabric tissue equably, described fabric after setting agent is handled enters rapid steamer and evaporates processing, enter boarding machine again and dry processing, evaporate treatment temperature and be generally 110-160 ℃, evaporating the processing time is 40-90 second, evaporating the processing optimum temperature is 130 ℃, and evaporating the processing Best Times is 56 seconds.Handle again after boarding machine oven dry is handled, dyeing is handled by the braying through routine for described fabric, roll finishing agent handles that (being rolled into softener, antistatic additive), baking are fixed to be handled and decatizing is handled, and described setting agent is made up of sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent.Concrete proportion of raw materials is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 10 gram/litres
Ammonium acetate 8 gram/litres
Sodium tetraborate 8 gram/litres
Bleeding agent 1.0 gram/litres
Transfer pH value=6 with acetic acid.
Apply setting agent on rapid ageing machine, " physics setting " that " chemistry setting " that setting agent provided and rapid steamer decatizing are provided combines, and with replacement crabbing technology, the effect that formalizes is better.
Embodiment four (5# fabric)
The grey cloth of described fabric is imported rapid steamer continuously, in the mangle groove of this rapid steamer porch, add setting agent, apply setting agent by roll to grey cloth, roll is rolled into setting agent in the described fabric tissue equably, described fabric after setting agent is handled enters rapid steamer and evaporates processing and enter boarding machine again and dry processing, evaporating treatment temperature is 160 ℃, and evaporating the processing time is 55 seconds.Handle again after boarding machine oven dry is handled, dyeing is handled by the braying through routine for described fabric, roll finishing agent handles that (being rolled into softener, antistatic additive), baking are fixed to be handled and decatizing is handled, and described setting agent is made up of sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent.Concrete proportion of raw materials is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 10 gram/litres
Ammonium acetate 8 gram/litres
Sodium tetraborate 8 gram/litres
Bleeding agent 1.0 gram/litres are introduced one group of conventional dyeing and finishing technology at last, and embodiments of the invention and conventional dyeing and finishing technology are compared.
Conventional dyeing and finishing technology (1# fabric) (used fabric: wash valetin for 45/55 mao): singly boil---braying---two boiling---vacuum dehydration (afterwards drying)---dyeing------baking is fixed---decatizing of rolling finishing agent (softener, antistatic additive etc.).Wherein, singly boil 75 ℃ of temperature, 17 minutes time; Use the rope-form washing dolly braying: soap 40 ℃, 30 minutes time, clear water was washed 30 minutes; Two 75 ℃ of temperature of boiling, do not add any auxiliary agent at 23 minutes time.
The final fabric property of different dyeing and finishing technologies compares:
Interventions Requested The fabric numbering
1# 2# 3# 4# 5#
Thickness (mm) 0.39 0.4 0.41 0.40 0.40
Ultimate strength (N) Warp-wise 1195 1169 1176 1150 1158
Broadwise 682 693 664 674 699
Percentage elongation (%) Warp-wise 56.0 55.2 54.0 53.0 56.0
Broadwise 44.0 43.1 42.5 44.0 38.5
Density (root/10cm) Warp-wise 219.2 221.2 223.2 218.4 219.2
Broadwise 223.2 226.6 227.2 224.8 227.6
Quality (g/m 2) 190.7 191.8 192.1 191.4 193.6
Folding line restorative (degree) Anxious bullet Warp-wise 161 159 161 161 154
Broadwise 157 158 156 159 156
Warp+latitude 318 317 317 320 310
Slow bullet Warp-wise 166 163 166 166 160
Broadwise 164 165 164 164 166
Warp+latitude 330 328 330 330 326
Pilling (level) 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
Bending resistance length (cm) Warp-wise 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.8 1.7
Broadwise 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9
Bending rigidity (mgcm) Warp-wise 93.6 96.3 94.3 112 95.1
Broadwise 131 132 132 131 133
Always 111 118 112 121 112

Claims (4)

1, the dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric, it is characterized in that: the grey cloth of described fabric is imported boarding machine continuously, in the mangle groove of this boarding machine porch, add setting agent, apply setting agent by roll to grey cloth, roll is rolled into setting agent in the described fabric tissue equably, described fabric after setting agent is handled enters boarding machine dries processing, the speed of a motor vehicle of described boarding machine be 16-32 rice/minute, the oven dry treatment temperature is 110-140 ℃ in the described boarding machine, described fabric is handled through the braying of routine after handling through formalizing again, dyeing is handled, roll the finishing agent processing and (be rolled into softener, antistatic additive), baking is fixed to be handled and the decatizing processing, described setting agent is by sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent is formed, and described raw materials in part by weight ratio is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 5-15
Ammonium acetate 6-14
Sodium tetraborate 6-16
Bleeding agent 0.2-1.5
Transfer pH value=5.4-6.4 with acetic acid.
2, the dyeing and finishing processing method of worsted fabric according to claim 1 and spinning hair polyester fabric, it is characterized in that: the speed of a motor vehicle of described boarding machine is 24 meters/minute, the oven dry treatment temperature is 130 ℃ in the described boarding machine.
3, the used setting agent of dyeing and finishing processing method of a kind of worsted fabric and spinning hair polyester fabric, it is characterized in that: described setting agent is made up of sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent, and described raw materials in part by weight ratio is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 5-15
Ammonium acetate 6-14
Sodium tetraborate 6-16
Bleeding agent 0.2-1.5
Transfer pH value=5.4-6.4 with acetic acid.
4, setting agent according to claim 3 is characterized in that: described setting agent is made up of sodium hydrogensulfite, ethanol ammonium, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent, and described raw materials in part by weight ratio is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 5-15
Ethanol ammonium 6-14
Sodium tetraborate 6-16
Bleeding agent 0.2-1.5
Transfer pH value=5.4-6.4 with acetic acid.
5, setting agent according to claim 3 is characterized in that: described setting agent is made up of sodium hydrogensulfite, ammonium acetate, sodium tetraborate, bleeding agent, and described proportion of raw materials is:
Sodium hydrogensulfite 10 gram/litres
Ammonium acetate 8 gram/litres
Sodium tetraborate 8 gram/litres
Bleeding agent 1.0 gram/litres
Transfer PH=6 with acetic acid.
CNB981246966A 1998-11-06 1998-11-06 Dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabric and fine spun wool and terylene fabric Expired - Fee Related CN1138032C (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CNB981246966A CN1138032C (en) 1998-11-06 1998-11-06 Dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabric and fine spun wool and terylene fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CNB981246966A CN1138032C (en) 1998-11-06 1998-11-06 Dyeing and finishing method of fine spun woolen fabric and fine spun wool and terylene fabric

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CN1259597A CN1259597A (en) 2000-07-12
CN1138032C true CN1138032C (en) 2004-02-11

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Families Citing this family (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100375801C (en) * 2004-12-13 2008-03-19 江苏阳光股份有限公司 Anticrease self-cleaning comfortable excellent wool spinning material and its finishing technology
CN101122058B (en) * 2007-09-18 2011-11-02 中国人民解放军总后勤部军需装备研究所 Polyester and wool blended textile fabric and preparation method thereof
CN101643988B (en) * 2009-06-29 2011-08-31 江苏阳光股份有限公司 Production method of invisible strip worsted woolen fabric
CN102817141A (en) * 2012-07-30 2012-12-12 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Production method of anion tweed fabric
CN103046404A (en) * 2012-12-17 2013-04-17 吴江市金平华纺织有限公司 Aftertreatment technique for compound fabrics
CN104452271B (en) * 2014-11-28 2017-01-11 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 Method for preparing quick-dry polyester-wool interweaved fabric
CN105421030A (en) * 2015-12-24 2016-03-23 常熟市馨格家纺有限公司 Bed sheet fabric

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Granted publication date: 20040211

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