CN112921482B - Unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112921482B
CN112921482B CN202110184762.1A CN202110184762A CN112921482B CN 112921482 B CN112921482 B CN 112921482B CN 202110184762 A CN202110184762 A CN 202110184762A CN 112921482 B CN112921482 B CN 112921482B
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cotton
moisture
water
agent
fabric
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CN112921482A (en
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张连京
龙晓霞
严涛
方佳
马瑞雪
徐煜东
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Zhejiang Huafu Top Dyed Yarn Melange Co ltd
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Zhejiang Huafu Top Dyed Yarn Melange Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/026—Knitted fabric
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
    • B32B2262/0284—Polyethylene terephthalate [PET] or polybutylene terephthalate [PBT]
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B32B2262/062—Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/14—Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/70—Other properties
    • B32B2307/728—Hydrophilic
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/70—Other properties
    • B32B2307/73—Hydrophobic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic

Abstract

The invention provides a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and a preparation method and application thereof. The unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric is of a double-layer structure, the outer layer and the inner layer have the difference between hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity, the outer layer is a hydrophilic layer formed by weaving yarns with moisture absorption and quick drying functions, and the inner layer is a hydrophobic layer formed by weaving cotton yarns with hydrophobic functions; the outer layer and the inner layer are connected through the weave points of the fabric; the yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions at least adopts 20wt% of moisture absorption and quick drying cotton fibers, and the cotton yarn with the hydrophobic function is 100wt% of cotton. The inner layer of the unidirectional moisture-conducting colored woven fabric prepared by the method disclosed by the invention keeps the natural skin-friendly characteristic of a pure cotton product, and provides a skin-friendly and comfortable sports fabric for people who love sports.

Description

Unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of textile printing and dyeing, in particular to a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
The cotton fiber is developed by human as a natural fiber as early as ancient times, and is deeply liked by people due to good wearing comfort and environmental protection and degradability. However, the cotton fiber can cause the fiber to absorb moisture and expand due to good moisture absorption, the sweat evaporation speed is reduced, and the wearing comfort is affected.
In order to achieve the one-way moisture-conducting performance, the fabric is usually subjected to after-finishing, mainly hydrophobic auxiliary agent treatment, waxing treatment or 3D printing treatment (the printing is hydrophilic patterns), and the method is generally subjected to the after-finishing stage, and the method has limited moisture-conducting performance and poor effect; the publication No. CN104074061A discloses a single-sided water-proof dirt-repellent single-sided 3D moisture absorption and quick drying process for cotton fabrics, which adopts a one-way moisture-conducting agent to print the whole bottom of the front side and the dot matrix of the back side, so that the front side and the back side form a poor fine hair movement effect, and the fabrics form a 3D effect.
Also, publication No. CN109972275A discloses a knitted fabric with one-way moisture-guiding, two-sided opposite-nature, moisture-absorbing and quick-drying functions and a preparation method thereof, wherein hydrophilic roving and hydrophobic roving are adopted to spin a siro-spinning composite cotton yarn with semi-hydrophilic yarn and semi-hydrophobic yarn through a siro-spinning process according to a 50/50 ratio to weave the back surface of the fabric, the front surface of the fabric is woven by fully adopting hydrophilic yarn treated by cheese, and the one-way moisture-guiding fabric is developed by matching with the structural design of a concave-convex fabric on the back surface. The spun yarn production method is limited by the siro spinning technology, two different kinds of rough yarns need to be produced simultaneously, when the color numbers of the single rough yarns are consistent, confusion and mistakes are easy to occur, the processing and production difficulty is increased, in addition, the spun yarn can be produced only through siro spinning, and the limitation is large.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above disadvantages of the prior art, the present invention aims to provide a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric and a production method thereof, which are used for solving the problem that pure cotton fabric in the prior art is skin-friendly and soft, but cannot be effectively used in sports fabric with moisture absorption and sweat releasing functions.
To achieve the above objects and other related objects, the present invention includes the following technical solutions.
The invention provides a one-way moisture-conducting fabric which is of a double-layer structure, wherein the outer layer is a hydrophilic layer formed by weaving yarns with moisture-absorbing and quick-drying functions, and the inner layer is a hydrophobic layer formed by weaving cotton yarns with hydrophobic functions; the outer layer and the inner layer are connected through fabric weave points; the yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions at least adopts 20wt% of moisture absorption and quick drying cotton fibers, and the cotton yarn with the hydrophobic function is 100wt% of cotton.
In the application, the weight percentage of the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber in the yarn with moisture-absorbing quick-drying function may be 20wt% -25 wt%, 25wt% -30 wt%, 30wt% -35 wt%, 35wt% -40 wt%, 40wt% -45 wt%, 45wt% -50 wt%, 50wt% -55 wt%, 55wt% -60 wt%, 60wt% -65 wt%, 65wt% -70 wt%, 70wt% -75 wt%, 75wt% -80 wt%, 80wt% -85 wt%, 85wt% -90 wt%, 90wt% -95 wt% or 95wt% -100 wt%. More preferably, the weight percentage of the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber in the yarn with moisture-absorbing quick-drying function is 60-100 wt%. The higher the moisture absorption and quick drying cotton proportion is, the water absorption capacity of the outer layer of the fabric is high, sweat in the inner layer of the fabric can be led out more easily, and the fabric is favorable for perspiration, but the cost of the fabric is high; the lower the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton proportion is, the lower the absorption capacity of the outer layer fabric on internal sweat is, the lower the sweat releasing effect is, but the cost of the fabric is reduced.
In this application, the inlayer and inlayer have the difference of hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity, form pressure differential, and moisture can be through the space direction front of the hydrophobic layer that is in the inlayer to can diffuse rapidly and volatilize on the surface that is in the hydrophilic layer of skin, thereby make skin continuously keep dry and comfortable state.
According to the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, the mass of the hydrophilic layer is 30-70 wt% based on the total mass of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric.
According to the one-way moisture-conducting fabric, the cotton spun yarn with the hydrophobic function at least contains 5wt% of water-repellent cotton fibers, and the mass percentage of the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers in the yarn with the moisture-absorbing quick-drying function can be 5wt% -10 wt%, 10wt% -15 wt%, 15wt% -20 wt%, 20wt% -25 wt%, 25wt% -30 wt%, 30wt% -35 wt%, 35wt% -40 wt%, 40wt% -45 wt%, 45wt% -50 wt%, 50wt% -55 wt%, 55wt% -60 wt%, 60wt% -65 wt%, 65wt% -70 wt%, 70wt% -75 wt%, 75wt% -80 wt%, 80wt% -85 wt%, 85wt% -90 wt%, 90wt% -95 wt% or 95wt% -100 wt%. Preferably, the cotton spun yarn with the hydrophobic function contains 20-50 wt% of water-repellent cotton fibers, the adding proportion of the water-repellent cotton is low, the hydrophobic effect of the inner-layer fabric is poor, sweat is easily absorbed and diffused by the inner layer, the difference between the hydrophilicity and the hydrophobicity of the inner layer and the outer layer is small, and the one-way moisture-conducting effect is not obvious; the water-repellent cotton is too high in adding proportion, the inner layer fabric is too strong in hydrophobicity, water is repelled, moisture is difficult to transfer to the outer layer, and moisture absorption and sweat releasing are not facilitated.
According to the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, the number of the cotton spun yarns with the hydrophobic function is 8-80S.
According to the pure cotton one-way moisture-conducting fabric, the number of the cotton spun yarns with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions is 8-80S.
The invention also discloses a preparation method of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, which comprises the following steps: the outer layer uses yarns with moisture absorption and quick drying functions, the inner layer uses cotton spun yarns with hydrophobic functions, and the inner layer and the outer layer are woven simultaneously and connected through the tissue points of the fabric.
According to the preparation method, the preparation method of the spun yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions comprises the following steps: the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber is obtained by carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling at least 20wt% of moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber. Preferably, the spinning process may be one of ring spinning, compact spinning, siro spinning or compact siro spinning, vortex spinning.
Preferably, the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber is obtained by performing hydrophilic modification treatment on the cotton fiber. More preferably, the hydrophilic modification treatment is that the cotton fiber is subjected to hydrophilic pretreatment, hot washing, peracid deoxygenation and water washing, and then oiling treatment is performed by adopting a hydrophilic oil agent.
In the hydrophilic modification treatment, the hydrophilic pretreatment is preferably carried out by scouring in a pretreatment aqueous solution containing 1 to 15wt% of hydrogen peroxide, 1 to 5wt% of a refining agent and 0.5 to 10wt% of sodium hydroxide, based on the total mass of the cotton fiber. More preferably, the scouring temperature is 80 to 100 ℃, preferably 92 to 100 ℃. The boiling-off time is at least 30min, preferably 30 min-100 min, such as 40min, 45min, 50min, 60min, 65min, and 70min. Preferably, the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium alkyl sulfonate. The sodium alkylsulfonate may be specifically sodium dodecylsulfonate. Preferably, the mass ratio of the fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether to the sodium alkyl sulfonate is 1: (0.5-5), and more preferably, the mass ratio of the fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether to the sodium alkylsulfonate is 1: (1-3).
More preferably, the hydrophilic modification treatment is carried out by washing with water at 70 to 90 ℃ for at least 5min, preferably 5 to 40min, and more preferably 10 to 30min.
For the hydrophilic modification treatment, preferably, peracid oxygen removal is carried out by dipping treatment using an aqueous solution containing glacial acetic acid and an oxygen-removing enzyme. Based on the total volume of the aqueous solution, the addition amount of the glacial acetic acid is (1-5) g/L, and the dosage of the oxygen removing enzyme is (1-5) g/L.
For the hydrophilic modification treatment, the washing is carried out until the hydrophilic modification treatment is neutral, and the hydrophilic modification treatment can be carried out for several times, generally 2 to 3 times, by using cold water.
For the hydrophilic modification treatment, in the oiling treatment, the hydrophilic oiling agent comprises 0.5-5 wt% of hydrophilic softening agent, 0.5-5 wt% of fluffing agent and 1-5 wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent based on the total mass of the cotton fibers. The hydrophilic softener is selected from one or more of amidohexyl-polyethoxy methyl sulfate, amino modified dimethyl siloxane-polyether copolymer, dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl siloxane and dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl polysiloxane. Preferably, the bulking agent is a mixture of a silicone and one or more selected from the group consisting of a polysiloxane, a fatty alcohol, and a fatty amine. Preferably, the hygroscopic quick-drying finish is selected from one or more of HMW8870, DP-9992, MT-110A, ZJ-X15, HSD and TF-620. Preferably, the heat preservation treatment is carried out at the temperature of 45-70 ℃ after the oiling, and the time of the heat preservation treatment is 29-50 min. More preferably, the siloxane content of the bulking agent is at least 40wt%, and more preferably, the siloxane content of the bulking agent is from 45wt% to 55wt%.
For the preparation method of the yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions, the steps are as follows:
cotton blending: mixing the moisture-absorbing quick-drying white cotton fibers, the moisture-absorbing quick-drying colored cotton fibers and common fibers according to the color of the colored spun yarns, and then carrying out full-mixing process production, wherein the common fibers refer to cotton, polyester or tencel which are not subjected to functional modification;
blowing: the selected moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fibers are subjected to a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixed opener, a cotton feeder and a lapper to be fully opened, subjected to impurity removal and uniformly mixed, and finally cotton rolls with uniform thickness and proper size are prepared, wherein the ration of the cotton rolls is 300-450 g/m, and the length of the cotton rolls is 50-65 yards;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using a carding machine (such as FA 201) to prepare the raw sliver with the quantitative ratio of 18-22 g/5m;
drawing: the raw slivers are pre-merged, two-to-merge using a draw frame (e.g., D81S), and then final merged using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging processes, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved. The quantitative rate of the three combined cooked strips is 14-22 g/5m;
roving: drawing and extending the drawn sliver by using a roving machine (such as FA494 type), wherein the ration is 3.0-8.0 g/10m, and the twist is 4.0-6.5 twist/10 m;
spinning: a spinning machine (such as FA506 type) is used, the yarn count is 8S 1-80S 1, and the twist factor is 280-390.
According to the preparation method, the preparation method of the cotton spun yarn with the hydrophobic function comprises the following steps: the water-repellent cotton fiber is obtained by at least 5wt% through cotton distribution, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling. Preferably, the spun yarn process may be one of ring spinning, compact spinning, siro spinning, compact siro spinning, and vortex spinning.
According to the preparation method, the water-repellent cotton fibers are obtained by performing water-repellent modification treatment on cotton, wherein the water-repellent modification treatment is to perform water-repellent pretreatment, hot washing, peracid and water washing on the cotton fibers, and then apply an oiling agent containing a hydrophobic agent for oiling.
For the hydrophobic modification treatment, the water-repellent pretreatment is scouring in a water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution, and the mass ratio of cotton fibers to water is 1: (5-20), based on the volume of water, the water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution contains 1-5 g/L of refining agent and 1-10 g/L of sodium hydroxide. More preferably, the boiling-off time is at least 30min, preferably 30 min-100 min, such as 40min, 45min, 50min, 60min, 65min, 70min; more preferably 50 to 60min.
For the hydrophobic modification treatment, the refining agent in the water-repellent pretreatment is a mixture selected from fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium alkylsulfonate. The sodium alkylsulfonate may be specifically sodium dodecylsulfonate. Preferably, the mass ratio of the fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether to the sodium alkyl sulfonate is 1: (0.5-5), and more preferably, the mass ratio of the fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether to the sodium alkylsulfonate is 1: (1-3).
For the water repellency modification treatment, hot washing is to wash by using water at 80-90 ℃, and the hot washing time is 10-20 min.
In the water repellency modification treatment, the peracid refers to an immersion treatment using an aqueous solution of glacial acetic acid. The amount of glacial acetic acid used is (1-5) g/L based on the volume of the aqueous solution.
In the water repellency modification treatment and oiling treatment, the oiling agent contains 2 to 12 weight percent of water repellent agent, 0.5 to 5 weight percent of softening agent and 0.5 to 5 weight percent of fluffing agent based on the total mass of the cotton fibers. Preferably, the temperature is maintained at 50-60 ℃ for 20-40 min after the oiling agent is applied. Preferably, the softener is a non-hydrophilic softener. Preferably, the bulking agent is a mixture of a silicone and one or more selected from the group consisting of a polysiloxane, a fatty alcohol, and a fatty amine. More preferably, the siloxane content of the bulking agent is at least 40wt%, and more preferably, the siloxane content of the bulking agent is from 45wt% to 55wt%.
More preferably, the water repellent comprises a fluorine-free water repellent and a fluorine-containing water repellent. The fluorine-free water repellent agent is selected from transitive TF-50GS, PHOBOL RSH of Hensman, RUCO-DYR ECO of Ludaf, fluorine-free water repellent agent FF of Kekai chemical engineering and fluorine-free water repellent agent FP-FF of Yak chemical engineering. The fluorine-containing water repellent agent is selected from a new material C6 fluorine-containing water repellent agent HK GUARD HG-6457 from Zhejiang Hui Kai, shanghai He speciality chemical Co., ltd, a fluorine-containing organic compound HS1100 from Asahi glass chemical Co., ltd, a six-carbon water repellent AG-E7500 from Asahi glass, a Jinyulai JL-5618, a six-carbon water repellent JV-004 from Jie Wei industries Co., ltd, an iheier mildew-proof antibacterial technology Co., ltd, guangzhou, a fluorine series three-proofing finishing agent iHeir-666 from Aihao Er Mei antibacterial technology Co., ltd or a six-carbon organic fluorine compound FCB060 from Guangzhou Union Tech science Co., ltd.
More preferably, the non-hydrophilic softener is selected from weak cation film ES of seedling-moistening chemical industry, SF-50 wax emulsion of \28156xuanchemical industry, OE-T of Tuona chemical industry, block silicone oil TF-4915 of transfer chemical industry and combined chemical bright smooth softener 2231.
For the preparation method of the hydrophobic cotton yarn, the specific process parameters are as follows:
cotton blending: mixing the water-repellent cotton fibers with common cotton fibers according to the color of the colored spun cotton fibers, and then carrying out full-mixing process production;
clearing the flower: making the mixed cotton fiber pass through a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixing opener, a cotton feeder and a lap former to fully open, remove impurities and uniformly mix the moisture-absorbing quick-drying fiber, and finally preparing the lap with uniform thickness and proper size, wherein the quantitative amount of the lap is 300-450 g/m, and the length of the lap is 50-65 yards;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using a carding machine (such as type FA 201) to prepare the raw sliver with the quantitative ratio of 18-22 g/5m;
drawing: the raw slivers are pre-merged, two-to-merged using a draw frame (e.g., model D81S), and then final merged using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging processes, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved. The quantitative rate of the three combined cooked strips is 14-22 g/5m;
roving: drawing and extending the drawn sliver by using a roving machine (such as type FA 494), wherein the ration is 3.0-8.0 g/10m, and the twist is 4.0-6.5;
spinning: a spinning machine (such as FA506 type) is used, the yarn count is 8S 1-80S 1, and the twist factor is 280-390.
The invention also discloses the application of the pure cotton unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric in sportswear.
The athletic garments described in this application are not limited to professional-grade athletic garments of all sorts, but also include everyday garments in perspiration-requiring situations.
The technical scheme of the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1) The inner layer of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric is the hydrophobic layer and mainly comprises hydrophobic cotton yarns produced in a fully-mixed mode, hydrophilic points and hydrophobic points are uniformly distributed, and compared with the mode of preparing the semi-hydrophobic yarns containing 50% of hydrophilic fibers and 50% of hydrophobic fibers through siro composite spinning, the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric has the advantages that the production mode is simpler, the risk of putting the same-color-number roving into a vehicle to make mistakes is reduced, in addition, the spinning mode is more flexible, is not limited by siro spinning, and can be suitable for various common spinning modes such as ring spinning, compact spinning, tight race spinning, siro spinning, vortex spinning and the like;
2) According to the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, the outer layer is the hydrophilic layer, the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers and other common fibers are blended in proportion in the blowing stage through the color spinning technology, the fibers with various colors in the spun yarn body are uniformly distributed, and compared with hydrophilic and coloring treatment on cheese cotton yarn, the fully blended spinning mode is more three-dimensionally rich in color, has the color mixing effect of color spinning, is better in moisture-absorbing quick-drying effect than cheese treated yarn, and is stronger in washing fastness;
3) The unidirectional moisture-conducting colored spun fabric prepared by the method has obvious unidirectional moisture-conducting effect, and has better unidirectional moisture-conducting performance after being washed for many times;
4) The inner layer of the unidirectional moisture-conducting colored woven fabric prepared by the method is made of pure cotton, the natural skin-friendly characteristic of a pure cotton product is reserved, and the skin-friendly and comfortable sports fabric is provided for people who love sports.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional structure diagram of hydrophobic layer siro composite yarn in a unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric in the prior art.
Fig. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional structure diagram of a cotton yarn with a hydrophobic function used in the hydrophobic layer of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a second schematic cross-sectional structure diagram of cotton yarn with hydrophobic function used in the hydrophobic layer of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The embodiments of the present invention are described below with reference to specific embodiments, and other advantages and effects of the present invention will be easily understood by those skilled in the art from the disclosure of the present specification. The invention is capable of other and different embodiments and of being practiced or of being carried out in various ways, and its several details are capable of modification in various respects, all without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.
It is to be understood that the process equipment or devices not specifically mentioned in the following examples are conventional in the art.
Furthermore, it is to be understood that one or more method steps recited in the present disclosure are not exclusive of other method steps that may also be present before or after the recited combination of steps or that other method steps may also be inserted between the explicitly recited steps, unless otherwise indicated; it is also to be understood that a combined connection between one or more devices/apparatus as referred to in the present application does not exclude that further devices/apparatus may be present before or after the combined device/apparatus or that further devices/apparatus may be interposed between two devices/apparatus explicitly referred to, unless otherwise indicated. Moreover, unless otherwise indicated, the numbering of the various method steps is merely a convenient tool for identifying the various method steps, and is not intended to limit the order in which the method steps are arranged or the scope of the invention in which the invention may be practiced, and changes or modifications in the relative relationship may be made without substantially changing the technical content.
Example 1
The embodiment discloses a unidirectional moisture-conducting colored spun fabric and a yarn production method thereof, wherein 40% of cotton and 60% of terylene moisture-absorbing quick-drying colored spun yarns are arranged on the outer layer of the fabric. The moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn is prepared by mixing 40% of moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton and 60% of polyester according to the color matching requirement of colored spun yarn, and then carrying out processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
pretreatment: scouring cotton fiber in aqueous solution of pretreatment, adding 3wt% of H based on total mass of cotton fiber 2 O 2 Scouring with 1wt% of scouring agent and 0.8wt% of sodium hydroxide for 60 minutes at 100 ℃; the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing: hot washing at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes;
peracid deoxygenization treatment, namely soaking in aqueous solution containing glacial acetic acid and deoxygenizing enzyme; the content of acetic acid is 3g/L, and the content of oxygen removing enzyme is 3g/L; the treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the treatment time is 20min;
washing with water: washing with water to neutrality;
and finally, oiling, namely adding 0.5wt% of amino modified dimethyl siloxane-polyether copolymer and 2wt% of fluffing agent by taking the total mass of the cotton fiber as a reference, wherein the fluffing agent is prepared by mixing siloxane and polysiloxane according to the proportion of 1 and 1wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent HSD, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ for 20 minutes.
The process steps of the moisture absorption quick-drying colored spun yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: 40 percent of moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber and 60 percent of terylene are mixed according to the color of the colored spun yarn and then are produced by a full mixing process
Clearing the flower: the selected moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers are subjected to a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixed opener, a cotton feeder and a lapper to be fully opened, subjected to impurity removal and uniformly mixed, and finally cotton rolls with uniform thickness and proper size are prepared, wherein the ration of the cotton rolls is 420g/m, and the length of the cotton rolls is 61 yards;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw strips with the quantitative of 20g/5 m;
drawing: the raw slivers were pre-combined, two-to-two combined using a D81S draw frame, and then final combined using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging processes, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved. The quantitative rate of the cooked strips after the three times of combination is 18g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine, wherein the ration is 5.0g/10m, and the twist is 4.91;
spinning: using FA506 spinning frame, adopting compact siro spinning with 30S1 yarn count and 78 twist/10 cm twist
The inner layer of the fabric is 100% of hydrophobic cotton colored spun yarn, and the fabric is prepared by mixing hydrophobic cotton fiber, common colored fiber and common white fiber according to color matching requirements of colored spun yarn, and then carrying out processes such as cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the hydrophobic cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
hydrophobic pretreatment: based on the total mass of the hydrophobic pretreatment aqueous solution, the addition amount of the cotton fiber is 5wt%, and the pretreatment aqueous solution contains 1.5g/L of refining agent and 4g/L of sodium hydroxide and is boiled for 60 minutes at 98 ℃; the refining agent is fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate in a mass ratio of 1: 1;
hot washing: hot washing at 85 ℃ for 20 minutes;
peracid treatment, namely carrying out immersion treatment by adopting an aqueous solution containing 3g/L of glacial acetic acid;
washing: washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, based on the total mass of the cotton fiber, 4wt% of fluorine-containing water repellent agent, 1wt% of softening agent and 1wt% of fluffing agent are added, and heat preservation is carried out for 25 minutes at 50 ℃; the bulking agent is formed by mixing siloxane and polysiloxane according to the proportion of 1; the fluorine-containing water repellent agent is a fluorine-containing organic compound HS1100 of Shanghai Herstella chemical engineering Co., ltd; the softening agent is OE-T of Tuona chemistry.
The following process steps of the hydrophobic cotton yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: fully mixing 5% of hydrophobic cotton and 95% of common cotton raw material, wherein the hydrophobic cotton raw material is fine-staple cotton processed by a 328B-level leather roller and processed by a hydrophobic auxiliary agent;
blowing: fully and uniformly mixing hydrophobic cotton and common cotton raw materials through a blowing process, so that the raw materials are fully mixed and subjected to opening and impurity removal;
carding: further opening, carding and impurity removing processes are carried out on the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw slivers with the weight of 20.5g/5 m;
drawing: pre-drawing the raw slivers by using an FA306 drawing frame, and then performing secondary and tertiary drawing on the pre-drawn slivers by using D35C to fully and parallelly straighten fiber bundles of the strands to obtain cooked slivers of 20.5g/5 m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine to obtain roving with the quantitative of 6.3g/10m and the twist of 4.38; spinning: an FA506 type spinning frame is used, the spinning process adopts common ring spinning, the yarn count is 30S1, and the twist is 78 twist/10 cm;
weaving: adopts a double-sided big circular knitting machine, the organization structure is pinhole one-way moisture-conducting double-sided cloth, the outer layer of the fabric is moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn, and the inner layer is hydrophobic cotton colored spun yarn
And (4) functional effect testing: through the detection of a third party test structure, after the fabric is washed for 5 times, the moisture absorption quick-drying property and the moisture absorption and sweat releasing property of the fabric accord with the moisture absorption quick-drying evaluation part 2 of GB/T21655.2-2019 textile: the requirement of dynamic moisture transfer methods.
(1) The soaking time is tested after 5 times of standard washing, the water absorption time of the outer layer is 4.0S, the water absorption time of the inner layer is 4.9S, and the standard requirements are met
(2) And (4) the water absorption rate is tested after 5 times of standard washing, the water absorption rate of the outer layer is 44.5mm/s, the water absorption rate of the inner layer is 46.3mm/s, and the standard requirements are met.
(3) After 5 times of washing, the maximum diffusion radius of the outer layer is 15mm, the liquid water diffusion speed of the outer layer is 2.5mm/s, and the requirements are met.
(4) The larger the value of the unidirectional transmission index is, the more excellent the unidirectional conductivity is. The unidirectional moisture-conducting woven fabric generally requires more than or equal to 3 grades (100-199), and the unidirectional transmission index of the fabric obtained in the embodiment is 115 after 5 times of standard washing, so that the fabric meets the test requirement.
Figure BDA0002942622200000091
Example 2
The embodiment discloses a pure cotton one-way moisture-conducting colored spun fabric and a yarn production method thereof, wherein the outer layer of the fabric is 100% moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn. The moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn is prepared by mixing moisture-absorbing quick-drying white cotton and moisture-absorbing quick-drying colored cotton according to color matching requirements of colored spun yarn and then carrying out processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
pretreatment: scouring cotton fiber in aqueous solution of pretreatment, adding 3wt% of H based on total mass of cotton fiber 2 O 2 Boiling 1wt% of scouring agent and 0.8wt% of sodium hydroxide for 60 minutes at 100 ℃; the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing: hot washing at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes;
peracid deoxygenization treatment, namely soaking in aqueous solution containing glacial acetic acid and deoxygenizing enzyme; the content of acetic acid is 3g/L, and the content of oxygen removing enzyme is 3g/L; the treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the treatment time is 20min;
washing with water: washing with water to neutrality;
and finally, oiling, namely adding 0.5wt% of amino modified dimethyl siloxane-polyether copolymer and 2wt% of fluffing agent by taking the total mass of the cotton fiber as a reference, wherein the fluffing agent is prepared by mixing siloxane and polysiloxane according to the proportion of 1 and 1wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent HSD, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ for 20 minutes.
The process steps of the moisture absorption quick-drying colored spun yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: mixing the moisture-absorbing quick-drying white fiber and the moisture-absorbing quick-drying color fiber according to the color of the color fabric, and producing by a full mixing process
Clearing the flower: the selected moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers are subjected to a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixed opener, a cotton feeder and a lapper to be fully opened, subjected to impurity removal and uniformly mixed, and finally cotton rolls with uniform thickness and proper size are prepared, wherein the ration of the cotton rolls is 420g/m, and the length of the cotton rolls is 61 yards;
carding: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw strips with the quantitative of 20g/5 m;
drawing: the raw slivers were pre-combined, second to combined using a D81S drawing frame, and then final combined using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging processes, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved. The quantitative amount of the cooked strips after the three times of combination is 14g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine, wherein the ration is 3.0g/10m, and the twist is 4.75;
spinning: using FA506 spinning frame, the spinning process adopts compact siro spinning with the yarn count of 50S1 and the twist of 112 twists/10 cm
The inner layer of the fabric is cotton yarn with a hydrophobic function, and the cotton yarn is prepared by mixing water-repellent cotton fiber, common color fiber and common white fiber according to color matching requirements of color spinning, and then performing processes such as cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the water-repellent cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
water repellency pretreatment: based on the total mass of the water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution, the addition amount of the cotton fibers is 15wt%, and the pretreatment aqueous solution contains 1.5g/L of refining agent and 4g/L of sodium hydroxide and is boiled for 60 minutes at 98 ℃; the refining agent is fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate in a mass ratio of 1: 1;
hot washing: hot washing at 85 deg.c for 20min;
peracid treatment, namely carrying out immersion treatment by adopting an aqueous solution containing 3g/L of glacial acetic acid;
washing: washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, 6wt% of fluorine-free water repellent agent, 1wt% of softening agent and 1wt% of fluffing agent are added based on the total mass of the cotton fiber, and the temperature is kept for 25 minutes at 50 ℃; the fluffing agent is formed by mixing siloxane and polysiloxane according to the mixture ratio of 1; the fluorine-free water repellent agent is transfused TF-50GS; the softening agent is OE-T of Tuona chemistry.
The following process steps of the hydrophobic cotton yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: fully mixing 30% of water-repellent cotton fibers and 70% of common cotton raw materials;
blowing: fully and uniformly mixing hydrophobic cotton and common cotton raw materials through a blowing process, so that the raw materials are fully mixed and subjected to opening and impurity removal;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and impurity removing processes are carried out on the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw slivers with the weight of 20.5g/5 m;
drawing: pre-drawing the raw slivers by using an FA306 drawing frame, and then performing secondary and tertiary drawing on the pre-drawn slivers by using D35C to fully and parallelly straighten fiber bundles of the strands to obtain cooked slivers of 20.5g/5 m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine to obtain roving with the quantitative of 3.0g/10m and the twist of 5.75;
spinning: an FA506 type spinning frame is used, the spinning process adopts common ring spinning, the yarn count is 50S1, and the twist is 112 twist/10 cm;
weaving: adopts a double-sided big circular knitting machine, the organization structure is pinhole one-way moisture-conducting double-sided cloth, the outer layer of the fabric is moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn, and the inner layer is hydrophobic cotton colored spun yarn
And (4) functional effect testing: the third party test structure detects that after the fabric is washed for 5 times, the moisture absorption quick-drying property and the moisture absorption and sweat releasing property of the fabric accord with the moisture absorption quick-drying evaluation part 2 of the textile of GB/T21655.2-2019: the requirement of dynamic moisture transfer method.
(1) And (3) soaking time, namely, after 5 times of standard washing tests, the water absorption time of the outer layer is 2.4S, the water absorption time of the inner layer is 5.7S, the rating of the outer layer is 5, and the rating of the inner layer is 4, which shows that the fabric still has excellent water absorption capacity after multiple times of washing.
(2) And the water absorption rate is tested after 5 times of standard washing, the water absorption rate of the outer layer is 69.1mm/s, and the water absorption rate of the inner layer is 49.2mm/s, which indicates that the water absorption and sweat releasing speed of the fabric is good.
(3) After 5 times of washing, the maximum diffusion radius of the outer layer is 30mm, the diffusion speed of liquid water in the outer layer is 6.2mm/s, and the grade 5 can be achieved.
(4) The larger the value of the unidirectional transmission index is, the more excellent the unidirectional conduction performance is. The unidirectional moisture-conducting woven fabric is generally required to be more than or equal to 3 grades (100-199), the unidirectional transmission index of the fabric in the embodiment still reaches 482.6 after 5 times of standard washing, and the grade is 5, so that the fabric is very excellent.
Figure BDA0002942622200000111
Example 3
The embodiment discloses a unidirectional moisture-conducting colored spun fabric and a yarn production method thereof, wherein the outer layer of the fabric is 100% moisture-absorbing quick-drying colored spun yarn. The moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn is prepared by mixing 60wt% of moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton and 40wt% of common cotton according to the color matching requirement of colored spun yarn, and then carrying out processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
based on the total mass of the cotton fiber, 15wt% of H is added in the pretreatment 2 O 2 Boiling 1.5wt% of scouring agent and 3wt% of caustic soda flakes at 95 ℃ for 55 minutes; the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium alkyl sulfonate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing at 90 ℃ for 15 minutes;
deoxidizing by peracid, namely soaking by using an aqueous solution containing acetic acid and deoxyenzyme, wherein the content of the acetic acid is 3g/L, and the content of the deoxyenzyme is 3g/L; the treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the treatment time is 20min;
washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, 1.5wt% of softening agent, 0.5wt% of fluffing agent and 2wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent TF620 are added, and heat preservation is carried out for 20 minutes at the temperature of 60 ℃; the softening agent is dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl siloxane; the bulking agent is a mixture of silicone and fatty alcohol according to a ratio of 1.
The following steps are the moisture absorption quick-drying colored spinning process:
cotton blending: mixing the wet fast-drying white fiber with common cotton according to the color of the color spinning, and producing by a full mixing process
Clearing the flower: the selected moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers are subjected to a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixed opener, a cotton feeder and a lapper to be fully opened, subjected to impurity removal and uniformly mixed, and finally cotton rolls with uniform thickness and proper size are prepared, wherein the ration of the cotton rolls is 420g/m, and the length of the cotton rolls is 61 yards;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw strips with the quantitative rate of 18g/5m;
drawing: the raw slivers were pre-combined, second to combined using a D81S drawing frame, and then final combined using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging procedures, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved; the quantitative rate of the cooked strips after the three times of combination is 14g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine, wherein the ration is 3.0g/10m, and the twist is 4.75 twists/10 cm;
spinning: an FA506 spinning frame is used, the spinning process adopts compact siro spinning, the yarn count is 50S1, and the twist is 112 twists/10 cm.
The inner layer of the fabric is cotton yarn with a hydrophobic function, which is prepared by mixing water-repellent cotton fiber, common color fiber and common white fiber according to the color matching requirement of color spinning, and then carrying out processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation method of the water-repellent cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
taking the total mass of the water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution as a reference, the adding amount of the cotton fiber is 15wt%, 3g/L of refining agent and 2g/L of caustic soda flakes are added in the water-repellent pretreatment, and the mixture is boiled for 60 minutes at 98 ℃; the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium alkyl sulfonate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing at 85 deg.c for 20min;
peracid, wherein glacial acetic acid containing 3g/L is adopted for impregnation treatment;
washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, based on the mass of the cotton fiber, 8wt% of fluorine-containing water repellent agent, 1wt% of softening agent and 1wt% of fluffing agent are added, and heat preservation is carried out for 30 minutes at 50 ℃; the bulking agent is a mixture of siloxane and polysiloxane according to 1; the fluorine-free water repellent agent is a six-carbon organic fluorine compound FCB060 of Guangzhou Union Tech & ltTech & ltCo; the softening agent is block silicone oil TF-4915 with chemical transfer.
The hydrophobic cotton colored spinning process comprises the following steps:
cotton blending: fully mixing 20wt% of water-repellent cotton fiber and 80wt% of common cotton raw material;
clearing the flower: fully and uniformly mixing the water-repellent cotton fibers and a common cotton raw material through a blowing process, so that the raw materials are fully mixed and subjected to opening and impurity removal;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and impurity removing processes are carried out on the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare 22g/5m raw strips;
drawing: pre-drawing the raw slivers by using an FA306 drawing frame, then performing secondary and tertiary drawing on the pre-drawn slivers by using D81L, fully and parallelly straightening fiber bundles of the strands, and finally obtaining cooked slivers of 14g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA498 roving machine to obtain roving with the weight of 3.0g/10m and the twist of 5.75;
spinning: using an FA506 spinning frame, wherein the spinning process adopts siro spinning, the yarn count is 50S1, and the twist number is 114 twist/10 cm;
weaving: a double-sided circular knitting machine is adopted, the weave structure is double-sided plain weave, moisture absorption quick-drying yarns are woven on the front side, and hydrophobic cotton yarns are woven on the reverse side.
The test effect of the pure cotton one-way moisture-conducting fabric in this embodiment is as follows: the third party test structure detects that the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric after 5 times of washing still accords with the part 2 of moisture absorption and quick drying evaluation of GB/T21655.2-2019 textiles: the requirement of dynamic moisture transfer method.
(1) And (3) soaking time, which is tested after 5 times of standard washing, wherein the water absorption time of the outer layer is 3.6S, the water absorption time of the inner layer is 4.6S, and the grade is 4, which shows that the fabric still has excellent water absorption capacity after multiple times of washing.
(2) And the water absorption rate is tested after 5 times of standard washing, the water absorption rate of the outer layer is 68.7mm/s, and the water absorption rate of the inner layer is 42.8mm/s, which indicates that the fabric has good water absorption and sweat releasing speed.
(3) After 5 times of washing, the maximum diffusion radius of the outer layer is 15mm, and the diffusion speed of liquid water in the outer layer is 2.9mm/s;
(4) The larger the value of the unidirectional transmission index is, the more excellent the unidirectional conductivity is. The unidirectional moisture-conducting woven fabric is generally required to be more than or equal to grade 3 (100-199), the unidirectional transmission index of the fabric in the embodiment still reaches 345.5 after 5 times of standard washing, and the grade is 5, so that the fabric is very excellent.
Figure BDA0002942622200000131
Example 4
The embodiment discloses a pure cotton one-way moisture-conducting colored spun fabric and a yarn production method thereof, wherein the outer layer of the fabric is blended colored spun yarn of 75wt% moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton and 25wt% terylene. The moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton colored spun yarn is made of moisture-absorbing quick-drying white cotton, moisture-absorbing quick-drying colored cotton and polyester fiber. After being mixed according to the color matching requirements of the colored spun yarn, the blended yarn is prepared by the processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like.
The preparation process of the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber comprises the following steps:
based on the total mass of the cotton fiber, 10wt% of H is added in the hydrophilic pretreatment 2 O 2 The refining agent and the flake caustic soda are boiled for 60 minutes at 98 ℃, wherein the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing at 90 ℃ for 15 minutes;
deoxidizing by peracid, namely soaking in an aqueous solution containing acid and deoxyenzyme, wherein the content of acetic acid is 3g/L, and the content of the deoxyenzyme is 3g/L; the treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the treatment time is 20min;
washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, 1wt% of softening agent, 1wt% of fluffing agent and 2wt% of HMW8870 are added, and heat preservation is carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature; the softening agent is a mixture of amidohexyl-polyethoxy methyl sulfate and dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl polysiloxane according to the mass ratio of 1; the fluffing agent is a mixture of siloxane and fatty amine according to a mass ratio of 1.
The process steps of the moisture absorption quick-drying colored spun yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: the moisture absorption quick-drying white fibers, the moisture absorption quick-drying color fibers and the terylene are mixed according to the color of the color fabric and then are produced by a full mixing process.
Clearing the flower: the selected moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fibers are subjected to a disc plucker, a multi-bin cotton mixer, a mixed opener, a cotton feeder and a lapper to be fully opened, subjected to impurity removal and uniformly mixed to finally prepare cotton rolls with uniform thickness and proper size, wherein the quantitative amount of the cotton rolls is 420g/m, and the length of the cotton rolls is 61 yards;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw strips with the quantitative of 20g/5 m;
drawing: the raw slivers were pre-combined, two-to-two combined using a D81S draw frame, and then final combined using auto-leveling drawing. Through three merging processes, the straightening parallelism of the sliver is further improved, and the sliver quality is improved. The quantitative amount of the cooked strips after the three times of combination is 14g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using an FA494 roving machine, wherein the ration is 3.0g/10m, and the twist is 5.75 twists/10 m;
spinning: the FA506 spinning frame is used, the spinning process adopts compact siro spinning, the yarn count is 50S1, and the twist is 112 twists/10 m.
The inner layer of the fabric is cotton yarn with a hydrophobic function, which is prepared by mixing water-repellent cotton fiber, common color fiber and common white fiber according to color spinning and matching requirements and then carrying out processes of cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling and the like:
3g/L of refining agent and 2g/L of caustic soda flakes are added to the water repellent pretreatment and boiled for 60 minutes at 98 ℃; the refining agent is a mixture of fatty acid methyl ester polyoxyethylene ether and sodium dodecyl sulfate according to a mass ratio of 1;
hot washing at 85 deg.c for 20min;
peracid: adopting an aqueous solution containing 3g/L of glacial acetic acid to carry out impregnation treatment;
washing with cold water to neutrality;
finally, oiling treatment is carried out, based on the total mass of the cotton fiber, 8wt% of fluorine-free water repellent agent, 1wt% of softening agent and 1wt% of fluffing agent are added, and heat preservation is carried out for 30 minutes at 50 ℃; the fluffing agent is formed by mixing siloxane and polysiloxane according to the mixture ratio of 1; the fluorine-free water repellent agent is RuCO-DYR ECO of rudoufu; the softening agent is block silicone oil TF-4915 of chemical transfer.
The following process steps of the hydrophobic cotton yarn are as follows:
cotton blending: fully mixing 50wt% of water-repellent cotton fiber and 50wt% of common cotton raw material;
clearing the flower: fully and uniformly mixing the water-repellent cotton fibers and the common cotton raw material through a blowing process, so that the raw materials are fully mixed and subjected to opening and impurity removal;
carding cotton: further opening, carding and removing impurities from the mixed raw materials by using an FA201 carding machine to prepare raw strips of 16-22 g/5m;
drawing: pre-drawing the sliver by using an FA306 drawing frame, then performing secondary and tertiary drawing on the pre-drawn sliver by using D81L to fully and parallelly straighten fiber bundles of the fiber strands, and finally obtaining cooked sliver of 14g/5m;
roving: drawing and stretching the drawn sliver by using a FA471 roving machine, wherein the weight of the roving is 3.0g/10m, and the twist of the roving is 5.75;
spinning: an FA506 type spinning frame is used, compact siro spinning is adopted in the spinning process, the yarn count is 50S1, and the twist is 114 twist/10 cm;
weaving: the double-faced circular knitting machine is adopted, the weave structure is double-faced weave, the front face of the double-faced fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and the back face of the double-faced fabric is hydrophobic cotton and common cotton blended yarn.
Testing the functional effect of the pure cotton one-way moisture-conducting fabric: through the detection of a third party test structure, the moisture absorption quick-drying property and the moisture absorption and sweat releasing property of the fabric after 5 times of washing meet the moisture absorption quick-drying evaluation part 2 of the textile of GB/T21655.2-2019: the requirement of dynamic moisture transfer method.
(1) And (3) soaking time, which is tested after 5 times of standard washing, wherein the water absorption time of the outer layer is 4.2S, and the water absorption time of the inner layer is 6.5S, which shows that the fabric still has excellent water absorption capacity after multiple times of washing.
(2) And (4) testing the water absorption rate after 5 times of standard washing, wherein the water absorption rate of the outer layer is 78mm/s, and the water absorption rate of the inner layer is 47.7mm/s, which shows that the water absorption and sweat releasing speed of the fabric is good.
(3) After 5 times of washing, the maximum diffusion radius of the outer layer is 20mm, the diffusion speed of liquid water in the outer layer is 3.9mm/s, and the grade 5 can be achieved.
(4) The larger the value of the unidirectional transmission index is, the more excellent the unidirectional conductivity is. The unidirectional moisture-conducting woven fabric is generally required to be more than or equal to 3 grades (100-199), the unidirectional transmission index of the fabric of the embodiment still reaches 388 after 5 times of standard washing, and the grade is 5, so that the fabric is excellent.
Figure BDA0002942622200000151
Figure BDA0002942622200000161
The foregoing embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and utilities of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention. Those skilled in the art can modify or change the above-described embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications or changes which can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical spirit of the present invention be covered by the claims of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. A unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric is characterized in that the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric is of a double-layer structure, the outer layer is a hydrophilic layer formed by weaving yarns with moisture absorption and quick drying functions, and the inner layer is a hydrophobic layer formed by weaving cotton yarns with hydrophobic functions; the outer layer and the inner layer are connected through fabric weave points; the yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions at least adopts 20wt% of moisture absorption and quick drying cotton fibers, and the cotton yarn with the hydrophobic function is 100wt% of cotton; the moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber is prepared by adopting the following method: performing hydrophilic pretreatment, hot washing, peracid deoxidization and water washing on cotton fibers, and then performing oiling treatment by using a hydrophilic oiling agent, wherein in the oiling treatment, the hydrophilic oiling agent comprises 0.5-5 wt% of a hydrophilic softener, 0.5-5 wt% of a bulking agent and 1-5 wt% of a moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent based on the total mass of the cotton fibers; the hydrophilic softener is selected from one or more of amidohexyl-polyethoxy methyl sulfate, amino modified dimethyl siloxane-polyether copolymer, dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl siloxane and dimethyl-3- [ (2-aminoethyl) amino ] propyl methyl polysiloxane; the bulking agent is a mixture of siloxane and one or more selected from polysiloxane, fatty alcohol and fatty amine; the moisture-absorbing quick-drying finishing agent is selected from one or more of HMW8870, DP-9992, MT-110A, ZJ-X15, HSD and TF-620; the cotton yarn with the hydrophobic function is prepared by the following method: at least 5wt% of water-repellent cotton fiber is adopted to be subjected to cotton distribution, mixing, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling; the water-repellent cotton fiber is prepared by the following method: the method comprises the following steps of performing water repellent pretreatment, hot washing, peracid and water washing on cotton fibers, and then performing oiling treatment by using an oiling agent containing a water repellent agent, wherein the oiling agent contains 2-12 wt% of the water repellent agent, 0.5-5 wt% of a softening agent and 0.5-5 wt% of a bulking agent based on the total mass of the cotton fibers.
2. A one-way moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the yarns with the hydrophobic function at least contain 5wt% of water-repellent cotton fibers;
and/or the number of the yarns with the hydrophobic function is 8-80S;
and/or the yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions has the count of 8-80S.
3. A method for preparing a unidirectional moisture-conductive fabric according to any one of claims 1-2, comprising the steps of: the outer layer uses yarns with moisture absorption and quick drying functions, the inner layer uses cotton yarns with hydrophobic functions, and the inner layer and the outer layer are woven simultaneously and connected through the texture points of the fabric; the preparation method of the cotton yarn with the moisture absorption and quick drying functions comprises the following steps: carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling by adopting at least 20wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying cotton fiber; the preparation method of the cotton spun yarn with the hydrophobic function comprises the following steps: at least 5wt% of water-repellent cotton fiber is adopted to be subjected to cotton distribution, mixing, cotton carding, drawing, roving, spinning and spooling.
4. The preparation method of the unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton fiber comprises the following steps: the cotton fiber is subjected to hydrophilic pretreatment, hot washing, peracid deoxygenation, water washing and oiling treatment by adopting a hydrophilic oiling agent.
5. The preparation method of the one-way moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 4, wherein the hydrophilic pretreatment refers to scouring of cotton fibers in a pretreatment aqueous solution, and the pretreatment aqueous solution contains 1-15 wt% of hydrogen peroxide, 1-5 wt% of a refining agent and 0.5-10 wt% of sodium hydroxide based on the total mass of the cotton fibers;
and/or, the hot washing is carried out in water at 70-90 ℃;
and/or, peracid deoxygenization is carried out by adopting aqueous solution containing glacial acetic acid and deoxygenization enzyme for dipping treatment;
and/or in oiling treatment, the hydrophilic oil agent comprises 0.5-5 wt% of hydrophilic softening agent, 0.5-5 wt% of bulking agent and 1-5 wt% of moisture absorption quick-drying finishing agent based on the total mass of the cotton fibers.
6. The method for preparing the one-way moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein in the preparation of the moisture-absorbing quick-drying cotton yarn, one or more of the following characteristics are included:
the quantitative quantity of the cotton roll obtained in the blowing stage is 300-450 g/m;
the quantity of the obtained raw sliver is 18-22 g/5m in the cotton carding stage;
the quantity of the cooked strips obtained in the drawing stage is 14-22 g/5m;
the quantitative rate of the roving obtained in the roving stage is 3.0-8.0 g/10m;
the number of spun yarns obtained in the spinning stage is 8S-80S, and the twist coefficient is 280-390.
7. The preparation method of the one-way moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the water-repellent cotton fibers are subjected to water-repellent pretreatment, hot washing, peracid and water washing, and then are subjected to oiling treatment by using an oiling agent containing a water-repellent agent.
8. The preparation method of the one-way moisture-conducting fabric according to claim 7, wherein the water-repellent pretreatment is scouring in a water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution, and the mass ratio of cotton fibers to water is 1: (5-20) the water-repellent pretreatment aqueous solution contains 1-5 g/L of a refining agent and 1-10 g/L of sodium hydroxide based on the volume of water;
and/or, the hot washing is washing by adopting water with the temperature of 80-90 ℃;
and/or, the peracid is carried out by adopting an aqueous solution containing glacial acetic acid for impregnation treatment;
and/or in oiling treatment, the oiling agent contains 2-12 wt% of water repellent agent, 0.5-5 wt% of softening agent and 0.5-5 wt% of fluffing agent based on the total mass of the cotton fiber.
9. The preparation method of the one-way moisture-conducting fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the preparation method of the cotton yarn with the hydrophobic function comprises one or more of the following characteristics:
the quantitative quantity of the cotton roll obtained in the blowing stage is 300-450 g/m;
the quantity of the obtained raw sliver is 18-22 g/5m in the cotton carding stage;
the quantitative rate of the cooked strips obtained in the drawing stage is 14-22 g/5m;
the quantitative rate of the roving obtained in the roving stage is 3.0-8.0 g/10m;
the number of spun yarns obtained in the spinning stage is 8S-80S, and the twist coefficient is 280-390.
10. Use of a unidirectional moisture wicking fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 2 in a sports garment.
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