CN112226876A - Splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics and weaving method thereof - Google Patents

Splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics and weaving method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112226876A
CN112226876A CN202011057936.XA CN202011057936A CN112226876A CN 112226876 A CN112226876 A CN 112226876A CN 202011057936 A CN202011057936 A CN 202011057936A CN 112226876 A CN112226876 A CN 112226876A
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China
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nation
tibetan
fabric
weft
splicing
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Inventor
陈伍彪
程明
王勇
方佳
杨祖凤
任强胜
陈涛
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SICHUAN SILK ENGINEERING TECHNOLOGY RESEARCH CENTER
SICHUAN RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF SILK SCIENCE
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SICHUAN SILK ENGINEERING TECHNOLOGY RESEARCH CENTER
SICHUAN RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF SILK SCIENCE
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Priority to CN202011057936.XA priority Critical patent/CN112226876A/en
Publication of CN112226876A publication Critical patent/CN112226876A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a splicing-free Tibetan nation and a weaving method thereof, wherein the splicing-free Tibetan nation is made of a nation fabric woven by a shuttleless loom, and the nation fabric consists of warp threads adopting polyester filament plied yarns and weft threads adopting colored polyester twisted filaments; and the total denier distribution of the warp yarns is as follows: the inner weave is 240-360D, the side weave is 200-300D, and the total denier of the weft is 100-240D; according to the weaving method, 2-4 pieces of Bodian fabric can be synchronously woven on the loom according to the width of the shuttleless loom; when the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic weaving is carried out, the doubling twisting → warping → reeding → weaving → ironing → wrapping; the invention realizes one-time weaving and molding and one-machine multi-frame production of the special fabrics of the Tibetan nation under the premise of completely retaining the unique appearance and the internal style of the traditional Tibetan nation, greatly simplifies the manufacturing process flow, improves the product quality and the labor productivity and reduces the manufacturing cost.

Description

Splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics and weaving method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of yarn dyed fabric and textile, in particular to a splicing-free Tibetan nation and a weaving method thereof.
Background
The color apron for waist of Tibetan woman is a kind of mark dress for Tibetan woman and has high ornamental value and practicability. The traditional nation and dictionary mainly comprises three yarn-dyed stripe fabrics of several or dozens of different colors and thicknesses in a splicing mode, and meets the composition requirements that a middle color stripe pattern and a left color stripe pattern and a right color stripe pattern are staggered mutually and the color stripe patterns on two sides are symmetrical. To date, the Bunge production adopts a step-by-step production mode regardless of a manual wood weaving machine or a shuttle weaving machine, namely, a left striped fabric, a middle striped fabric and a right striped fabric are respectively woven on the weaving machine according to the process requirements, and then the three striped fabrics are manually spliced and sewn into a complete Bunge product by cutting. Because only single-width production is available, the width of the fabric is narrow by about 20 cm, the utilization rate of equipment is low, and the fabric is required to be made into a finished product by manual splicing and sewing, so that the production period is long, the efficiency is low, and the cost is high.
Disclosure of Invention
One of the purposes of the invention is to provide a splicing-free Tibetan nation dictionary which has the characteristics of compact and precise texture, rich and bright color and high additional value.
The invention also aims to provide a weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics, which is a Tibetan nation and classics production technology with high efficiency and low cost.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics is made of a nation fabric, wherein the nation fabric is composed of warp yarns adopting polyester filament yarn plied yarns and weft yarns adopting colored polyester twisted filaments; and the total denier distribution of the warp yarns is as follows: the inner weave is 240-360D, the side weave is 200-300D, and the total denier of the weft is 100-240D.
In order to better realize the splicing-free Tibetan nation dictionary, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: the inner weave of the Bodian fabric adopts four warp-faced twills and four weft-faced twills, and the edge weave is a double-layer four-piece twill or double-layer plain weave; preferably, the inner weave of the Bodian fabric consists of three equally-divided 3/1 warp twills with same slant and alternately arranged and 1/3 weft twills with double-layer twills or double-layer plain weaves along the warp direction, and when the edge weave is a double-layer twill, the fabric weave is the same as the adjacent inner weave; the warp density and the weft density are respectively 14-15 pieces/cm and 90-150 pieces/cm. In order to better realize the splicing-free Tibetan nation dictionary, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: the Bundian fabric is produced by a shuttleless loom and is woven on a machine with 1-4 pieces/time of Bundian fabric.
In order to better realize the splicing-free Tibetan nation dictionary, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: when 3 or more Bonddian fabrics are woven simultaneously, the width parameters of each Bonddian fabric on the shuttleless loom (preferably adopting a wide rapier loom with the loom width larger than 240 centimeters) are as follows: the inner tissue is 62-65 cm, and the side tissue is 2.5-3 cm.
A weaving method of a splicing-free Tibetan nation classic comprises the following steps:
1) and (3) cabling: finishing the doubling and twisting of warp yarns and the doubling and twisting of weft yarns;
2) warping: uniformly winding the warps on a warp beam on a sectional warping machine; the main technological parameters are as follows: the warp density is 14-15 pieces/cm, the width is 66-69 cm multiplied by the number of the upper bang classical;
3) reeding: the warps penetrate into the harness wires and the set reeds of the heald frames of each page according to the technological requirements;
4) weaving: weaving a Bodian fabric by using a shuttleless loom; the shuttleless loom adopts a common rapier loom, and the equipment amplitude is 240 plus 280 cm;
5) ironing: shaping and style finishing are carried out on the fabric obtained in the step 4) on a calender; when the style finishing is carried out, the fabric is formed into solid and fine texture through high-temperature lustre finishing, so as to prevent generation of
Figure RE-GDA0002749563570000021
Cracking and imparting a bright luster and brilliant color to the fabric; the technological parameters in the hot stamping process are as follows: the vehicle speed is 15-18 m/min; the temperature is 180 ℃ and the pressure is 0.1-0.2kg/cm2
6) Cutting: cutting the fabric subjected to the ironing and polishing into pieces according to the design length of the Boston dictionary along the warp direction;
7) edge covering: and (4) seaming the cut bangdian fabric in the step 6) to prepare a finished product of the Tibetan bangdian without splicing.
In order to better realize the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting mode is particularly adopted: the warp yarn doubling and twisting is to ply and twist 2-3 polyester filaments of 100-120D into warp yarns on a yarn twisting machine, wherein the twist degree is 5-8 twist/cm; doubling and twisting the weft or plying and twisting 2 100-120D colored polyester filaments on a doubling and twisting machine, wherein the twist is 4-5 twist/cm; or twisting single colored silk on a silk twisting machine with the twist of 6-7 twists/cm; the twisting directions of the warp and the weft are opposite.
In order to better realize the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting mode is particularly adopted: the heald frame adopts 18 pages of healds, and comprises 8 pages of inner organization, 8 pages of edge organization and 2 pages of waste edge; the reed adopts a No. 12-14 reed; when the warp threads are threaded into the heddles of the heald frames of each page, the weave threading method is straight threading.
In order to better realize the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting mode is particularly adopted: the step 4) comprises the following steps:
4.1) selecting a 12-color electronic weft selector, and additionally installing a weft selector signal acquisition device and a weft guide device on the shuttleless loom according to the installation requirements of instruments;
4.2) designing a Bonder drawing, and generating an upper machine file to be input into the weft selection controller by taking a complete Bonder drawing as a cycle;
4.3) setting the weaving technological parameters as follows: the upper machine tension is 480-; and a side shearing device is additionally arranged on the shuttleless loom to divide the lower woven fabric into three winding warp beams.
In order to better realize the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting mode is particularly adopted: when the Bodian pattern is designed, the composition meets the design requirements that three color-woven stripes with several or dozens of different colors and thicknesses are formed on the composition according to the traditional Tibetan Bodian style, the middle color stripe pattern and the left and right color stripes are staggered mutually, and the color stripe patterns on the two sides are symmetrical.
In order to better realize the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting mode is particularly adopted: and 7), when the overlock is carried out, because the weft cloth selvedge is of a double-layer structure, the upper layer and the lower layer are folded inwards to lock the overlock in the weft direction, so that the product is more attractive.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:
(1) the weaving method of the invention abandons the manufacturing mode that the existing bangdian needs to weave step by step and then is sewn manually, adopts a common shuttleless loom additionally provided with a weft selection device to simultaneously complete the synchronous weaving on the loom of 2-4 pieces of non-spliced bangdian, realizes the one-time weaving forming and the multi-frame production of one machine of the special fabrics of the bangdian on the premise of completely keeping the unique appearance and the internal style of the traditional Tibetan bangdian, greatly simplifies the manufacturing process flow, improves the product quality and the labor productivity, and reduces the manufacturing cost.
(2) The production efficiency of the weaving method is at least 6-12 times of that of the prior art, the labor cost of product sewing is greatly reduced, and the product quality is improved. The manufactured products of the nation classic completely reserve the unique appearance and the internal style of the traditional Tibetan nation classic, and have compact and precise texture, rich and bright color and high added value.
(3) The weaving method of the invention thoroughly changes the step-by-step processing mode that the left, middle and right three narrow color stripe fabrics are respectively weaved, and then a complete Bonddian product is made by manual cutting and sewing in the prior art; on the premise of keeping the unique style that the picture composition of the left and right color bars in the traditional Bangdian is staggered with the picture composition of the left and right color bars and the color bar patterns on the two sides are symmetrical, the one-time weaving forming and the one-machine multi-frame production of the Bangdian special fabric are realized, the manufacturing process flow is greatly simplified, the product quality and the production rate are improved, and the production cost is reduced. Compared with the prior art, the method can save the production cost by more than 60 percent, improve the production efficiency by 6 to 12 times and has good market prospect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a machine for simultaneously weaving three Bunchen fabrics.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.
All of the features disclosed in this specification, or all of the steps in any method or process so disclosed, may be combined in any combination, except combinations of features and/or steps that are mutually exclusive.
Any feature disclosed in this specification may be replaced by alternative features serving equivalent or similar purposes, unless expressly stated otherwise. That is, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature is only an example of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.
The noun explains:
d: denier (Nden), i.e., denier, is a unit that measures the thickness of a fiber, filament, or yarn. Refers to the weight grams of 9000m long fibers, filaments or yarns at official moisture regain.
Example 1:
a splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics is made of a nation fabric, wherein the nation fabric is composed of warp yarns adopting polyester filament yarn plied yarns and weft yarns adopting colored polyester twisted filaments; and the total denier distribution of the warp yarns is as follows: the inner weave is 240-360D, the side weave is 200-300D, and the total denier of the weft is 100-240D; the inner weave of the Bodian fabric adopts four warp-faced twills and four weft-faced twills, and the edge weave is a double-layer four-piece twill or double-layer plain weave; preferably, the inner weave of the Bodian fabric consists of three equally-divided 3/1 warp twills with same slant and alternately arranged and 1/3 weft twills with double-layer twills or double-layer plain weaves along the warp direction, and when the edge weave is a double-layer twill, the fabric weave is the same as the adjacent inner weave; the warp density and the weft density are respectively 14-15 pieces/cm and 90-150 pieces/cm.
The Bundian fabric is produced by a shuttleless loom and is woven on a machine with 1-4 pieces/time of Bundian fabric.
Example 2:
the embodiment is further optimized on the basis of the above embodiment, and the same parts as those in the above technical solution will not be described herein again, and further to better implement the splicing-free tibetan nation dictionary of the present invention, the following setting method is particularly adopted: when 3 or more Bonddian fabrics are woven simultaneously, the width parameters of each Bonddian fabric on the shuttleless loom (preferably adopting a wide rapier loom with the loom width larger than 240 centimeters) are as follows: the inner tissue is 62-65 cm, and the side tissue is 2.5-3 cm.
As a preferable arrangement scheme, the Bundian fabric is produced by a shuttleless loom, 2-4 pieces of Bundian fabric can be synchronously woven according to the equipment width, and a wide rapier loom with the loom width larger than 240 cm is preferably adopted, so that 3 (or more) pieces of Bundian fabric can be woven simultaneously. Wherein the width of each fabric raw material machine comprises an inner tissue of 62-65 cm and an edge tissue of 2.5-3 cm
Example 3:
a weaving method of a splicing-free Tibetan nation classic comprises the following steps:
1) and (3) cabling: finishing the doubling and twisting of warp yarns and the doubling and twisting of weft yarns;
2) warping: uniformly winding the warps on a warp beam on a sectional warping machine; the main technological parameters are as follows: the warp density is 14-15 pieces/cm, the width is 66-69 cm multiplied by the number of the upper bang classical;
3) reeding: the warps penetrate into the harness wires and the set reeds of the heald frames of each page according to the technological requirements;
4) weaving: weaving the fabric raw material by adopting a shuttleless loom; the shuttleless loom adopts a common rapier loom, and the equipment amplitude is 240 plus 280 cm;
5) ironing: shaping and style finishing are carried out on the fabric obtained in the step 4) on a calender; when the style finishing is carried out, the fabric is formed into solid and fine texture through high-temperature lustre finishing, so as to prevent generation of
Figure RE-GDA0002749563570000061
Cracking and imparting a bright luster and brilliant color to the fabric; the technological parameters in the hot stamping process are as follows: the vehicle speed is 15-18 m/min; the temperature is 180 ℃ and the pressure is 0.1-0.2kg/cm2
6) Cutting: cutting the fabric subjected to the ironing and polishing into pieces according to the design length of the Boston dictionary along the warp direction;
7) edge covering: and (4) seaming the cut bangdian fabric in the step 6) to prepare a finished product of the Tibetan bangdian without splicing.
Example 4:
in this embodiment, based on any of the above embodiments, the method is further optimized, and the above-mentioned technology is more than that of seeking a new way to do nothing, and further, in order to better implement the weaving method of the splicing-free tibetan nation classic of the present invention, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: the warp yarn doubling and twisting is to ply and twist 2-3 polyester filaments of 100-120D into warp yarns on a yarn twisting machine, wherein the twist degree is 5-8 twist/cm; doubling and twisting the weft or plying and twisting 2 100-120D colored polyester filaments on a doubling and twisting machine, wherein the twist is 4-5 twist/cm; or twisting single colored silk on a silk twisting machine with the twist of 6-7 twists/cm; the twisting directions of the warp and the weft are opposite.
Example 5:
the embodiment is further optimized on the basis of the embodiment 3 or 4, and will not be described again with the hair-style titanium dioxide in the foregoing technology, and further to better implement the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic of the present invention, the following setting method is particularly adopted: the heald frame adopts 18 pages of healds, and comprises 8 pages of inner organization, 8 pages of edge organization and 2 pages of waste edge; the reed adopts a No. 12-14 reed; when the warp threads are threaded into the heddles of the heald frames of each page, the weave threading method is straight threading.
Example 6:
the embodiment is further optimized on the basis of the embodiment 3, 4 or 5, and will not be described again with the hair-style titanium dioxide in the foregoing technology, and further to better implement the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: the step 4) comprises the following steps:
4.1) selecting a 12-color electronic weft selector, and additionally installing a weft selector signal acquisition device and a weft guide device on the shuttleless loom according to the installation requirements of instruments;
4.2) designing a Bonder drawing, and generating an upper machine file to be input into the weft selection controller by taking a complete Bonder drawing as a cycle;
4.3) setting the weaving technological parameters as follows: the tension of the loom is 480 plus 500kg, the speed of the loom is 250 plus 260r/min, the leveling time is 330 degrees (namely the reading displayed on a dial plate on the shuttleless loom during leveling), and the position of the warp thread is horizontal; and a side shearing device is additionally arranged on the shuttleless loom to divide the lower woven fabric into three winding warp beams.
Example 7:
the embodiment is further optimized on the basis of the embodiment 3 or 4 or 5 or 6, and will not be described again with the hair-style titanium dioxide of the foregoing technology, and further to better implement the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic of the present invention, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: when the Bodian pattern is designed, the composition meets the design requirements that three color-woven stripes with several or dozens of different colors and thicknesses are formed on the composition according to the traditional Tibetan Bodian style, the middle color stripe pattern and the left and right color stripes are staggered mutually, and the color stripe patterns on the two sides are symmetrical.
Example 8:
the embodiment is further optimized on the basis of the embodiment 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 or 7, and will not be described again with the hair-style titanium dioxide of the foregoing technology, and further to better implement the weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation classic of the present invention, the following setting modes are particularly adopted: and 7), when the overlock is carried out, because the weft cloth selvedge is of a double-layer structure, the upper layer and the lower layer are folded inwards to lock the overlock in the weft direction, so that the product is more attractive.
Example 9:
a splicing-free Tibetan nation and dictionary is made of a nation and dictionary fabric, wherein warp threads of the nation and dictionary fabric are polyester filament yarn plied yarns, and weft threads are colored polyester twisted filaments; the total denier of the warp is: the inner weave is 240-360D, the side weave is 200-300D, and the total denier of the weft is 100-240D;
wherein the inner weave adopts 3/1 twill, and the edge weave adopts double-layer twill or double-layer plain weave; the longitude and latitude are respectively 14-15 roots/cm and 90-150 roots/cm;
the Bangdian fabric is produced by a shuttleless loom, 2-4 Bangdian fabrics can be synchronously woven on the loom according to the equipment width, preferably a wide rapier loom with the loom width more than 240 cm is adopted, and 3 (or more) Bangdian fabrics are woven simultaneously. Wherein the width of each product machine comprises 62-65 cm of inner tissue and 2.5-3 cm of side tissue.
A weaving method of a splicing-free Tibetan nation classic comprises the following procedures: cabling → warping → reeding (drafting) → weaving → ironing → wrapping.
A. And (3) cabling: the method comprises the steps of doubling and twisting warp yarns and doubling and twisting weft yarns, wherein the doubling and twisting warp yarns are formed by stranding and twisting 2-3 100-120D polyester filaments on a twisting machine, and the twist degree is 50-80 twist/10 cm; the weft yarn doubling and twisting is to ply and twist 2 100-120D colored polyester filaments on a doubling and twisting machine, wherein the twist degree is 40-50 twist/10 cm; doubling and twisting the wefts or twisting a single colored yarn on a twisting machine, wherein the twist is 60-70 twist/10 cm; and the warp and weft twisting directions are opposite.
B. Warping: the warping is to uniformly wind warp yarns on a warp beam on a sectional warping machine; the main technological parameters are as follows: the warp density is 14-15 pieces/cm, width is 66-69 cm and number of upper bang classical width.
C: reeding (drafting): the reeding is to penetrate the warp into the harness wire of each heald frame and the set reed according to the technological requirements. Adopts 18 pages of healds, including 8 pages of inner organization, 8 pages of edge organization and 2 pages of waste edge, and the specification of the reed is No. 12-14 reed. The weave-through is a straight-through (a schematic drawing of a drafting system for weaving three pieces of cloth at the same time as shown in fig. 1).
D. Weaving: the device width is 240-280 cm by adopting a common rapier loom. The weaving process comprises the following steps:
a. selecting a 12-color electronic weft selector, and additionally arranging a weft selector signal acquisition device and a weft guide device on a common rapier loom according to instrument installation requirements;
b. the method comprises the following steps of designing a nation classic pattern by using professional software, wherein the composition meets the design requirements that three color-woven stripes with several or dozens of different colors and thicknesses are formed on the composition according to the traditional Tibetan nation classic style, and the middle-width color stripe pattern, the left and right color stripes are staggered with each other, and the color stripe patterns on the two sides are symmetrical; and a complete Bondy picture is taken as a cycle to generate an upper computer file to be input into the weft selecting controller;
c. the weaving process parameters are as follows: the upper machine tension is 480-. And an edge shearing device is additionally arranged on a common rapier loom to divide the lower woven fabric into three winding beam.
E. Ironing: the blanching is to carry out shaping and style finishing on the fabric on a calender. The fabric is made into solid and fine texture by high-temperature lustre finishing, and the generation of the texture is prevented
Figure RE-GDA0002749563570000101
And gives the fabric a bright luster and a brilliant color. The technological parameters are as follows: the vehicle speed is 15-18 m/min; the temperature is 180 ℃ and the pressure is 0.1-0.2kg/cm2
F. Edge covering; the edge covering is to cut the fabric subjected to the ironing and polishing into pieces according to the design length of the Bonddian along the warp direction, and then to carry out edge locking to obtain the finished product of the Bonddian. Because the weft cloth edge is of a double-layer structure, the upper layer and the lower layer need to be folded inwards to be lockstitched, so that the product is more attractive.
Fig. 1 shows a schematic diagram of a machine for simultaneously weaving three banche fabrics, wherein a zone a and a zone B are inner tissues, and a zone C is side tissues, and the specific arrangement is as follows: the fabric weave in the area A is 1/3 twill with weft (or 3/1 twill with warp), the fabric weave in the area B is 3/1 twill with warp (or 1/3 twill with weft), the fabric weave in the area C is double-layer twill, and the fabric weave in the upper layer and the lower layer are 1/3 twill (or 3/1 twill with warp) as the same as that in the adjacent area A; however, the weave structure in the area C may be different from that in the area A, and a double plain weave may be used.
When drafting is carried out, the inner weaving warps are threaded in the area A and the area B, 1 warp is threaded by a reed, and the edge-threading warps are threaded in the area C, 2 warps are threaded by the reed; each group of heald frames in the area A and the area B is 4 pages, and the heald frames in the area C are 8 pages, and the straight-through method 1 → 2 → 3 → 4 is adopted.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, and all simple modifications and equivalent variations of the above embodiments according to the technical spirit of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. A splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics is made of nation and classics fabrics, and is characterized in that: the Bodian fabric consists of warps adopting polyester filament plied yarns and wefts adopting colored polyester twisted filaments; and the total denier distribution of the warp yarns is as follows: the inner weave is 240-360D, the side weave is 200-300D, and the total denier of the weft is 100-240D.
2. The stitchless Tibetan nation dictionary according to claim 1, wherein: the inner weave of the Bodian fabric adopts four warp-faced twills and four weft-faced twills, and the edge weave is a double-layer four-piece twill or double-layer plain weave; the warp density and the weft density are respectively 14-15 pieces/cm and 90-150 pieces/cm.
3. The stitchless Tibetan nation dictionary according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the Bundian fabric is produced by a shuttleless loom and is woven on a machine with 1-4 pieces/time of Bundian fabric.
4. The stitchless Tibetan nation dictionary of claim 3, wherein: when 3 or more Bowden fabrics are woven simultaneously, the width parameters of each Bowden fabric on the shuttleless loom are as follows: the inner tissue is 62-65 cm, and the side tissue is 2.5-3 cm.
5. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
1) and (3) cabling: finishing the doubling and twisting of warp yarns and the doubling and twisting of weft yarns;
2) warping: uniformly winding the warps on a warp beam on a sectional warping machine; the main technological parameters are as follows: the warp density is 14-15 pieces/cm, the width is 66-69 cm multiplied by the number of the upper bang classical;
3) reeding: the warps penetrate into the harness wires and the set reeds of the heald frames of each page according to the technological requirements;
4) weaving: weaving a Bodian fabric by using a shuttleless loom;
5) ironing: shaping and style finishing are carried out on the fabric obtained in the step 4) on a calender; the technological parameters in the hot stamping process are as follows: the vehicle speed is 15-18 m/min; the temperature is 180 ℃ and the pressure is 0.1-0.2kg/cm2
6) Cutting: cutting the fabric subjected to the ironing and polishing into pieces according to the design length of the Boston dictionary along the warp direction;
7) edge covering: and (4) seaming the cut bangdian fabric in the step 6) to prepare a finished product of the Tibetan bangdian without splicing.
6. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to claim 5, wherein the weaving method comprises the following steps: the warp yarn doubling and twisting is to ply and twist 2-3 polyester filaments of 100-120D into warp yarns on a yarn twisting machine, wherein the twist degree is 5-8 twist/cm; doubling and twisting the weft or plying and twisting 2 100-120D colored polyester filaments on a doubling and twisting machine, wherein the twist is 4-5 twist/cm; or twisting single colored silk on a silk twisting machine with the twist of 6-7 twists/cm; the twisting directions of the warp and the weft are opposite.
7. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to claim 5, wherein the weaving method comprises the following steps: the heald frame adopts 18 pages of healds, and comprises 8 pages of inner organization, 8 pages of edge organization and 2 pages of waste edge; the reed adopts a No. 12-14 reed; when the warp threads are threaded into the heddles of the heald frames of each page, the weave threading method is straight threading.
8. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to claim 5, wherein the weaving method comprises the following steps: the step 4) comprises the following steps:
4.1) selecting a 12-color electronic weft selector, and additionally installing a weft selector signal acquisition device and a weft guide device on the shuttleless loom according to the installation requirements of instruments;
4.2) designing a Bonder drawing, and generating an upper machine file to be input into the weft selection controller by taking a complete Bonder drawing as a cycle;
4.3) setting the weaving technological parameters as follows: the upper machine tension is 480-; and a side shearing device is additionally arranged on the shuttleless loom to divide the lower woven fabric into three winding warp beams.
9. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to claim 8, characterized in that: when the Bodian pattern is designed, the composition meets the design requirements that three color-woven stripes with several or dozens of different colors and thicknesses are formed on the composition according to the traditional Tibetan Bodian style, the middle color stripe pattern and the left and right color stripes are staggered mutually, and the color stripe patterns on the two sides are symmetrical.
10. The weaving method of the splicing-free Tibetan nation according to claim 5, wherein the weaving method comprises the following steps: and 7), folding the upper layer and the lower layer inwards in the weft direction to lock the edges when the edges are locked.
CN202011057936.XA 2020-09-30 2020-09-30 Splicing-free Tibetan nation and classics and weaving method thereof Pending CN112226876A (en)

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CN104452021A (en) * 2013-09-12 2015-03-25 上海鼎天纺织品有限公司 Method for making fiber jacquard cloth with positioning pattern splicing and combining patterns
CN109338551A (en) * 2018-12-05 2019-02-15 浙江理工大学 The electronic jacquard machine dress of the different seamless wall cloth of upper and lower fringe sample makes and its line weaving process
CN109680385A (en) * 2018-11-26 2019-04-26 际华三五零九纺织有限公司 A kind of one-pass molding fabric and its production method

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CN104452021A (en) * 2013-09-12 2015-03-25 上海鼎天纺织品有限公司 Method for making fiber jacquard cloth with positioning pattern splicing and combining patterns
CN109680385A (en) * 2018-11-26 2019-04-26 际华三五零九纺织有限公司 A kind of one-pass molding fabric and its production method
CN109338551A (en) * 2018-12-05 2019-02-15 浙江理工大学 The electronic jacquard machine dress of the different seamless wall cloth of upper and lower fringe sample makes and its line weaving process

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