CN112760779B - Elastic thermal jean fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Elastic thermal jean fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D49/00—Details or constructional features not specially adapted for looms of a particular type
- D03D49/04—Control of the tension in warp or cloth
- D03D49/06—Warp let-off mechanisms
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
Abstract
A heat-insulating jean fabric with elasticity is made up through weaving, and features that its surface layer is jean layer and its internal layer is heat-insulating layer. Four-beam technology is adopted for warping. The surface layer weave of the fabric is 3/1 right twill weave, and the inner layer weave of the fabric is 1/3 right twill weave. The surface layer tissue and the inner layer tissue both adopt double system warps which are respectively basic system yarns and elastic system core-spun yarns, and the surface layer tissue and the inner layer tissue adopt the same system wefts which are elastic core-spun yarns. The soft comfortableness of the fabric is guaranteed by the double-layer binding structure, the four-side elasticity of the denim fabric is effectively improved by the elastic yarns of the warp-weft system, and the fine and soft fabric at the part in contact with the skin is guaranteed by the inner layer fabric which adopts the acrylic modal blended yarns, so that the requirements of the denim fabric on the four-side elasticity and the heat retention in winter are met.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textile fabrics. In particular to a warm-keeping jean fabric with elasticity and a production method thereof.
Background
With the improvement of life quality, the requirement of consumers on the wearing comfort is higher and higher. The traditional jean fabric is generally weft elastic fabric or non-elastic fabric. The thin jean fabric is mainly suitable for spring and summer, the yarn count is thin, and the thin jean fabric is light, thin and comfortable by matching with yarns with different performances. The thick jean fabric is mainly suitable for autumn and winter, and the thick and heavy heat-insulating performance of the fabric is generally realized by changing the fabric texture, using yarns with thicker yarn count or using a composite fabric. The thick jean fabric produced by the prior art is generally weft elastic, and when a human body moves, the requirements on stretching and bending of the fabric are that the warp direction is higher than the weft direction, and the warp-weft four-side elastic fabric has better wearability than the weft elastic fabric. Winter jeans require excellent thermal comfort in addition to elasticity. The most common solution is to use a composite fabric, such as a jean fabric disclosed in patent document CN108527978A, in which a layer of thermal insulation fabric is attached to the jean fabric by sewing or bonding, although a certain thermal insulation property is achieved, the production process is complicated, the thermal insulation layer is easy to peel off, the peeled part is easy to cause wrinkling of the fabric, the layer in contact with the skin is often not comfortable enough, and the fabric has poor elasticity, which is not good for sports and comfort.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims at the defects of the prior art and solves the problem of providing the denim fabric which has four-side elasticity and heat retention property while ensuring the weaving tension uniformity of the machine.
The technical scheme for solving the technical problems is as follows:
an elastic thermal denim fabric is formed by crosswise and longitudinally interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that: the fabric adopts a double-layer binding structure and comprises a surface layer, an inner layer and a binding layer, wherein the binding layer is formed by interweaving part of surface layer yarns and part of inner layer yarns and is used for binding the surface layer and the inner layer of the fabric together; the surface layer warp yarns and the inner layer warp yarns are double-system yarns, and the double-system yarns consist of basic system yarns and elastic system core-spun yarns, wherein the surface layer basic system warp yarns are cotton yarns, and the surface layer elastic system core-spun yarns are cotton yarn-covered elastic yarns; the warp yarns of the inner layer basic system are warm-keeping yarns, and the core-spun yarns of the inner layer elastic system are warm-keeping yarn-wrapped elastic yarns; the surface layer weft yarn and the inner layer weft yarn are all core-spun yarns of cotton yarn-covered elastic yarns.
In the scheme, the fabric adopts double-layer binding tissues, so that the thickness of the fabric is increased, the heat retention of the fabric is increased, and compared with a double-layer fabric manufactured by sewing or bonding and other modes, the double-layer binding double-layer jean fabric is more firmly connected; meanwhile, the surface layer and the inner layer use different yarns, so that the surface layer has the characteristics of the denim fabric, and meanwhile, the warm-keeping yarns of the inner layer enable the fabric to have a more excellent warm-keeping effect; the surface layer warp yarns and the inner layer warp yarns are made of double-system yarns, so that the warp direction of the fabric is elastic, the elastic core-spun yarns are used in cooperation with weft yarns, the manufactured fabric is elastic in four directions, meanwhile, the basic system yarns are not elastic, the elastic core-spun yarns can be limited, and fabric deformation caused by warp yarn loss is avoided; the surface layer yarn of the elastic system core-spun yarn in the double-system yarn is the same as the material of the basic system yarn, so that the surface property of the fabric is more uniform and stable, and the wearability of the fabric is improved; if the weft yarn types are different, the weft elasticity of the surface layer and the lining layer may be inconsistent, and the difference in the flatness of the cloth surface may be caused.
Further, the thermal yarn is selected from any one of acrylic fiber, wool, acrylic fiber and wool blended yarn, wool modal blended yarn or acrylic modal blended yarn.
The thermal yarns can be various thermal yarns, such as acrylic fiber, wool, acrylic fiber and wool blended yarns, wool modal blended yarns and the like, and the acrylic fiber modal blended yarns are preferably selected, so that the inner layer fabric has thermal property, the moisture absorption and air permeability of the fabric are enhanced, and the fabric is more comfortable to wear.
Further, the warp yarn double-system yarn is composed of base system warp yarns and elastic system core-spun yarns which are arranged at intervals.
Here, the warp elasticity of the fabric in the warp direction can be adjusted by adjusting the ratio between the warp yarns of the base system and the covering yarns of the elastic system.
Furthermore, the elastic yarn in the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp is polybutylene terephthalate elastic yarn.
Compared with spandex, the polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) has good stability after heat treatment, excellent chlorine resistance, excellent curling and bulkiness and more easily controlled elasticity, and can better avoid the fabric deformation and the difference in flatness caused by yarn loss of elasticity when being used for denim fabric.
Furthermore, the elastic yarn in the weft yarn is spandex elastic yarn.
Furthermore, the double-layer weave surface layer is 3/1 right twill weave, and the inner layer is 1/3 right twill weave.
The lining adopts 1/3 right twill weave, compares with other types of weave, and 1/3 right twill weave lining surface fabric in the area of lining warp and skin contact is three times of lining woof, can make the warp direction of lining surface fabric keep warm the yarn and contact with the skin as much as possible, effectively improves the cold-proof effect of lining surface fabric.
Furthermore, the cotton yarns in the warp yarns of the surface foundation system and the core-spun yarns of the surface elastic system are indigo cotton yarns, and the cotton yarns in the weft yarns of the surface layer and the inner layer are white cotton yarns.
The production method of the elastic warm-keeping jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of: the fabric is subjected to warp warping, sizing and drawing-in processes in sequence before being woven on a machine.
Furthermore, the warping adopts a batch mode, four warp beams are warped respectively, the number of required warps is calculated according to the set width and the set warp density, the cotton yarn and the thermal yarn are wound on A, B weaving beams respectively through a batch warping machine, and the cotton yarn-covered elastic yarn core-spun yarn and the thermal yarn-covered elastic yarn core-spun yarn are wound on C, D weaving beams respectively through an elastic warping machine.
Further, drawing-in involves spacing the base system warp yarns and the resilient system core yarns using a 16-leaf harness.
Further, weaving the fabric after drawing-in, wherein when the surface layer is woven, the inner layer warp yarns are all descended, namely are positioned below a weaving opening; when the inner layer is woven, all the surface layer warps are lifted, namely, the surface layer warps are positioned above the cloth fell.
Because the warp yarns in the scheme adopt four different types of yarns, compared with the conventional double-beam process, the four-beam process of respectively winding the different types of yarns on the independent beams can better ensure the uniformity of the weaving tension on the elastic warp yarns and the inelastic warp yarns, so that the prepared fabric is smoother. The warp needs to be drafted, and the up-and-down floating friction with the reed dent and the harness wire is large, so that the strength of the yarn needs to be improved by sizing the warp, the yarn surface hairiness is adhered, and the wear resistance is improved.
Further, the sizing agent in the step (2) is esterified starch with the solid content of 1-5%, the temperature of the sizing agent is 80-95 ℃, and the drying temperature is 70-90 ℃.
If the solid content is too high, the sizing rate is high, and the later-stage desizing and washing are not facilitated; the sizing temperature is too high or too low to be beneficial to the dissolution of the sizing agent; the serosa is easy to crack when the drying temperature is too high, and can not form a complete serosa when the drying temperature is too low. The solid content is 5%, the temperature of the slurry is 85 ℃, and the drying temperature is 80 ℃.
Furthermore, in the weaving process, a connecting layer is formed in a mode that the back warp yarns are lifted and interwoven with the front wefts or the front warp yarns and the back wefts, and the surface layer and the back layer are combined together.
Has the advantages that:
the invention develops the denim fabric with the four-side elasticity and the heat retention property on the basis of optimizing the traditional denim fabric, is different from the prior technical means, and adopts the four-beam process in the warp warping part to ensure the smoothness of the double-layer fabric in order to solve the difference of the weaving tension on the inelastic warp and the elastic warp; the warp yarns of the surface layer and the inner layer are double-system yarns, so that the fabric has warp elasticity, the warp elasticity and the weft elasticity, and the wearability is more excellent; the fabric weave adopts double-layer binding weave, and inner fabric warps in contact with the skin all adopt warm-keeping yarns, so that the warm-keeping property of the fabric and the comfort of a layer in contact with the skin are ensured.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of a double-layer weave structure of the thermal denim fabric with four-side elasticity, wherein a binding mode is that inner warps and outer wefts are interwoven.
Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a double-layer weave structure of the thermal denim fabric with four-side elasticity, wherein the binding mode is surface warp and inner weft interweaving.
FIG. 3 is a surface layer structure diagram.
Fig. 4 is a lining layer structure diagram.
Here, ● represents a meridian point, indicating that the surface meridian is lifted.
Wherein □ represents weft points.
Where, o represents a surface warp stitch point, indicating that the surface warp is interwoven with the surface weft.
Where o denotes a back warp tissue point, meaning that the back warp is interwoven with the back weft.
Wherein diamond-solid represents the junction points, representing the inner warps and the outer wefts.
Wherein x represents a junction point and represents a surface warp and a binding weft.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described with reference to the following examples and figures:
example 1:
the warp yarn of the thermal denim fabric with the four-side elasticity is divided into two parts, namely the surface warp yarn and the inner warp yarn. The surface warp yarn has two systems, namely indigo cotton yarn and indigo cotton and PBT core-spun yarn; the back warp yarn has two systems, namely an acrylic fiber/modal blended yarn and an acrylic fiber/modal + PBT core-spun yarn.
The count of the indigo cotton yarn of the surface warp yarn is 16S, the specification of the indigo cotton and PBT core-spun yarn is 16S +75D/24F, the specification of the inner warp yarn acrylic/modal blended yarn is 21S, and the specification of the acrylic/modal + PBT core-spun yarn is 21S + 75D/24F.
Before weaving, warp warping, sizing, drawing-in and other processes are required.
The designed four-side elastic jean fabric with warmth retention property is a woven fabric formed by continuous weaving, the warp yarn system direction is the X direction, and the weft yarn system is the Y direction. The structure diagram 1 is a complete fabric weave circulation, in this embodiment, the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp are both arranged at intervals according to the sequence of 1 foundation system warp and 1 elastic system core-spun yarn, but the proportion and the interval arrangement mode between the two can be adjusted automatically according to actual requirements to adapt to different elasticity requirements of the fabric, for example, the warp is arranged at intervals according to the sequence of 1 foundation system warp and 2 elastic system core-spun yarns, or the warp is arranged at intervals according to the sequence of 2 foundation system warps and 2 elastic system core-spun yarns, and the like, without limitation, the higher the proportion of the elastic system core-spun yarn is, the better the elasticity of the fabric is; but the proportion of the core-spun yarn of the elastic system is not too high, otherwise, the later washing process of the fabric has too large influence on the core-spun yarn, and the problems of fabric deformation, wrinkle and the like are easily caused. As shown in fig. 1, the X-direction numerals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, ((c)), and ((c)) indicate warp yarns. The numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 represent surface warp yarns, the 1 st, 3 rd, 5 th and 7 th warp yarns are indigo cotton yarns, the 2 nd, 4 th, 6 th and 8 th warp yarns are indigo cotton yarns and PBT core-spun yarns, namely the root number ratio of the indigo cotton yarns to the PBT core-spun yarns is 1: 1. the numbers of the warps are acrylic fibres/modal yarns, the warps are acrylic fibres and PBT core-spun yarns, namely the ratio of the acrylic fibres modal yarns to the acrylic fibres and the PBT core-spun yarns is 1: 1. according to the weave diagram, in one weave cycle, the surface warp yarns and the inner warp yarns are drawn in the order 1 (indigo cotton yarn): (ii) (acrylic modal yarn): 2 (indigo cotton yarn + PBT core spun yarn): ② (acrylic modal yarn + PBT core-spun yarn): 3 (indigo cotton yarn): ③ (acrylic modal yarn): 4 (indigo cotton yarn + PBT core spun yarn): fourthly (acrylic modal yarn and PBT core-spun yarn): 5 (indigo cotton yarn): fifthly (acrylic modal yarn): 6 (indigo cotton yarn + PBT core spun yarn): sixthly (acrylic modal yarn and PBT core-spun yarn): 7 (indigo cotton yarn): seventhly (acrylic modal yarn): 8 (indigo cotton yarn + PBT core spun yarn): (acrylic modal yarn and PBT core-spun yarn). The numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, I, II, III, IV and V represent weft yarns, the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 represent surface weft yarns, the numbers 1, 2, 3, IV and V represent inner weft yarns, and the surface weft yarns and the inner weft yarns use the same yarns, namely white cotton yarns and spandex core-spun yarns.
According to the overall schematic diagram 1 of the double-layer organization structure, when the surface layer is woven, all inner layer warp yarns (I), (II), (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (III), (V) and (III) descend to be positioned below a weaving opening; when weaving the inner layer, all the surface layer warps 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are lifted, namely, are positioned above the cloth fell. According to the figure 1, the binding mode selects the inner warp to bind the surface weft, namely the inner warp is lifted and interweaved with the surface weft. Fig. 3 is a surface layer weave diagram, wherein the surface layer adopts 3/1 right twill weave. Fig. 4 is a back layer weave diagram, wherein the back layer adopts 1/3 right twill weave.
According to the overall schematic diagram of the double layer weave structure shown in fig. 1, 16 heald frames are required for a total of 16 warp yarns in one complete weave cycle. And selecting the corresponding specification of the reed according to the fabric width and the warp density.
Example 2:
in this embodiment, as shown in fig. 2, the binding manner is that the surface warp yarns bind the inner weft yarns, i.e., the surface warp yarns and the inner weft yarns are interwoven. The rest is the same as in example 1.
According to the warm-keeping jean fabric with four-side elasticity disclosed by the invention, the warp system adopts a four-beam process, so that the uniformity of the on-machine weaving tension of elastic warp yarns and non-elastic warp yarns is ensured. The warp yarns and the weft yarns respectively use the elastic core-spun yarns, so that the warp and weft directions of the jean fabric are elastic, and the movement comfort of the jean fabric is effectively improved. The fabric adopts double-layer binding structure, and the contact part of the inner layer of the fabric and the skin adopts functional acrylic modal yarns, so that the thermal resistance value can be effectively improved, and the characteristics of free movement, warm keeping and comfort of the jean fabric in winter are really achieved.
Claims (10)
1. An elastic thermal denim fabric is formed by crosswise and longitudinally interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that: the fabric adopts a double-layer binding structure and comprises a surface layer, an inner layer and a binding layer, wherein the binding layer is formed by interweaving part of surface layer yarns and part of inner layer yarns and is used for binding the surface layer and the inner layer of the fabric together; the surface layer warp yarns and the inner layer warp yarns are double-system yarns, and the double-system yarns consist of basic system yarns and elastic system core-spun yarns, wherein the surface layer basic system warp yarns are cotton yarns, and the surface layer elastic system core-spun yarns are cotton yarn-covered elastic yarns; the warp yarns of the inner layer basic system are warm-keeping yarns, and the core-spun yarns of the inner layer elastic system are elastic yarns wrapped by the warm-keeping yarns; the surface layer weft yarn and the inner layer weft yarn are all core-spun yarns of cotton yarn-covered elastic yarns.
2. The elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the heat-preservation yarn is selected from any one of acrylic fiber, wool, acrylic fiber and wool blended yarn, wool modal blended yarn or acrylic modal blended yarn.
3. The elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the double-system yarn of the warp is formed by alternately arranging basic system warp and elastic system core-spun yarn.
4. The elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the elastic yarn in the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp is polybutylene terephthalate elastic yarn.
5. The elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the elastic yarn in the weft yarn is spandex elastic yarn.
6. The elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the surface layer of the double-layer weave is 3/1 right twill weave, and the inner layer is 1/3 right twill weave.
7. A method for producing an elastic warm denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fabric is subjected to warp beaming, sizing and drawing-in processes in sequence before being woven on a machine.
8. The method for producing the elastic thermal jean fabric according to claim 7, wherein the warping is performed in a batch mode by four beam warping, the number of warp yarns required is calculated according to the set width and warp density, the cotton yarn and the thermal yarn are respectively wound on A, B beams by a batch warping machine, and the cotton yarn-covered elastic yarn core-spun yarn and the thermal yarn-covered elastic yarn core-spun yarn are respectively wound on C, D beams by an elastic warping machine.
9. The method for producing an elastic thermal jean fabric according to claim 7, wherein the drawing-in comprises arranging the warp yarns of the base system and the core-spun yarns of the elastic system at intervals by using a 16-page harness.
10. The production method of the elastic thermal denim fabric according to claim 7, wherein the fabric is woven after passing through, and the weaving process is carried out by forming a binding layer by using a mode that inner warp yarns are lifted and interwoven with outer wefts or the outer warp yarns and the inner wefts to bind the surface layer and the inner layer together.
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| CN112760779A (en) | 2021-05-07 |
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