CN111926442B

CN111926442B - Yaersu fabric and manufacturing method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111926442B
Application number: CN202010781240.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张燕娜; 张明杰; 陈太明; 蔡枫
Original assignee: Ningbo Youngor Wool Testile Dyeing Co ltd
Current assignee: Ningbo Youngor Wool Testile Dyeing Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-08-06
Filing date: 2020-08-06
Publication date: 2022-07-12
Anticipated expiration: 2040-08-06
Also published as: CN111926442A

Abstract

The invention discloses a Yaersu fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, and the Yaersu elastic fabric comprises the following components: 70-98 parts of wool fiber, 0-28 parts of polyester fiber or regenerated fiber, and 2-4 parts of lycra or other elastic filaments with a drafting function; through (1) dyeing fibers; (2) spinning; (3) weaving yarns; (4) and (5) performing after-finishing process to obtain the elastic fabric. The invention adopts a novel spindle spinning mode to coat elastic filaments in yarns, combines ring spinning high count yarns to interweave with the high count yarns, and then uses a finishing mode of worsted fabric to carry out treatment, thereby obtaining the woven wool fabric which has plump velvet feeling, light and loose texture, high fuzzing and pilling resistance index grade and excellent elastic function, and simultaneously developing a brand-new field of cross-border design.

Description

Yaersu fabric and manufacturing method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of fabrics and fabric production, and particularly relates to a Yaersu fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.

Background

Along with the change of life style of people, the requirements on the comfort, the fashion and the wearing style of clothing are higher and higher, so that new requirements are provided for the requirements on the functionality, the appearance fashion and the like of the fabric, the function of elasticity is particularly important, and the balance between the appearance of the suede and the anti-pilling index is also achieved. The traditional spindle spinning yarns are generally used for knitted sweaters or woolen sweaters, the yarns have no elasticity and the fabric is thick and heavy, but the spindle spinning yarns have full, thick and even velvet feeling, the presentation of the fabric velvet of the subsequent course and the stability of indexes are benefited, the novel spindle spinning mode is adopted to coat elastic filaments in the yarns, ring spinning high count yarns are combined to be interwoven with the ring spinning high count yarns, the post-finishing mode of the worsted fabric is used for processing, the fabric velvet feeling is full and even, the texture is light, the function of elasticity is realized, and the wearing is comfortable.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention adopts a novel spindle spinning mode to coat elastic filaments in yarns, combines ring spinning high count yarns with interweaving of the high count yarns, and then uses a finishing mode of worsted fabrics for treatment, thereby obtaining the tatted wool fabrics which have full velvet feeling, light and loose texture, high fuzzing and pilling resistance index grade and excellent elastic function, and simultaneously developing a brand-new field of cross-border design.

In order to solve the technical problems, the following technical scheme is adopted:

yaershuni fabric is characterized in that: the elastic fabric comprises the following components: 70-98 parts of wool fibers, 0-28 parts of polyester fibers or regenerated fibers and 2-4 parts of lycra or other elastic filaments with a drafting function, wherein the warp yarns are 10.0-15.6 tex doubled yarns obtained by spinning the wool fibers and the polyester fibers or the regenerated fibers in a spinning mode; the weft yarn is elastic core-spun yarn, and comprises single-strand yarn and core-spun yarn, the single-strand yarn is 32-50 tex single-strand yarn obtained by roving and spinning of wool, polyester fiber or regenerated fiber, and the core-spun yarn is 2.22 tex-4.44 tex lycra or other elastic filament core-spun yarns with a drafting function and is added into the single-strand yarn in a drafting mode.

Preferably, the polyester fiber is a conlon fiber or an iterative polyester fiber; the regenerated fiber is one of a modal fiber, a tencel fiber, a viscose-soft fiber or a silkworm pupa protein fiber; the elastic filament with the drafting function is one of spandex, polyamide-ammonia coated yarn, latex yarn, XLA fiber, T400 fiber, PBT fiber or CM800 fiber.

The T400 fiber is a novel polyester bi-component fiber, and is formed by parallelly and compositely spinning two polyester fibers with different properties. Due to the difference of the thermal properties of the polymer components, when the fibers are heated in the processing, the shrinkage degree of the polymers is different, so that the fiber bundles generate three-dimensional spiral curls with loose outside and tight inside, curved outside and straight inside, and a soft and fluffy hand feeling can be given to the fabric. This property of T400 has its durability and stability, since the curl is determined by its own properties. The two different components of the T400 fiber are PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate), respectively. Wherein the PTT component is formed by polycondensation of terephthalic acid and 1, 3-propanediol, the basic chain of the macromolecule has three methylene groups, and the macromolecule chain is easy to bend and rotate at the three methylene groups to form a Z-shaped conformation, so that the PTT macromolecule chain can elastically deform like a spring. In the process of elastic deformation, the conformation of the molecules is not changed, and the molecules can still recover the original shape after the external force disappears. I.e., the conformational transition is completely reversible, and thus the T400 fiber has good elasticity and elastic elongation.

The PBT fiber has a longer carbon-carbon chain, so that the fiber has better elasticity, the vitrification stability of the PBT fiber is low, the PBT fiber has a good dyeing effect, and the level-dyeing property and the color fastness of the fabric are improved.

The tencel can be continuously and naturally regenerated, so that the fabric is easy to degrade, the environment is not polluted, and the environmental protection property is improved.

The nylon-spandex coated yarn can greatly improve the elasticity of the fabric.

The XLA fiber has good elastic recovery, chemical stability and environmental protection, and after the XLA fiber is added into the fabric, the size stability of the fabric is good, the XLA fiber is comfortable to wear and easy to manage, and the raw materials are environment-friendly.

The latex yarns are added into the fabric, so that the strength and the heat resistance of the fabric are improved, only a very small amount of latex yarns are added, and the defect of poor resilience of the fabric is tested, so that the overall influence on the fabric is small.

The Kanglun fiber is added into the fabric, so that the fabric integrates the functions of perspiration and antibiosis and deodorization, and the characteristics of softness, smoothness, comfort and the like of the fabric are improved.

The manufacturing method of the Yaersu fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) fiber dyeing: in automatic dyeing equipment, adopting a Lanaer reactive dye to dye various fiber components at low temperature, wherein the fiber components comprise wool fibers, polyester fibers or regenerated fibers, Lycra or other elastic filaments with a drafting function;

(2) spinning: adopting a worsted ring spun two-ply yarn and a slubbing elastic core-spun yarn; in the roving spinning elastic core-spun yarn, wool and polyester fiber or regenerated fiber are blended and carded in sequence, 32-50 tex single-strand yarn is spun by a single-side driven full-servo tangential belt frame spinning frame, and the twist is 500 plus 700 twists/m; when a spinning machine spins the single-strand yarn, lycra or other elastic filament core-spun yarns with the drafting function are added in a drafting mode, the lycra or other elastic filaments with the drafting function are coated by the single-strand yarn in a 2.22 tex-4.44 tex mode, and the drafting multiple is designed to be 2.5-3.5 times;

(3) weaving yarns: obtaining grey cloth after warping, drafting and weaving the yarns in the step (2);

(4) and (3) after-finishing process: and sequentially carrying out open washing, continuous boiling, drying, heat setting, bag sewing and wool milling, untwisting and scutching, wool boiling, untwisting and scutching, drying, shearing, tentering and can steaming on the obtained grey cloth to obtain the finished fabric.

Preferably, in the step (1) of dyeing the fiber:

i, respectively adding 0.5-1.0% of penetrating agent, 1.0-2.0% of glacial acetic acid with a certain concentration of 97% or high-quality formic acid with a concentration of 85%, 1.0-2.0% of active low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent and 3.0-8.0% of sodium dye with a standard formula into fibers to be dyed at 40-50 ℃ of a main cylinder, firstly heating to 70 ℃ at a heating rate of 1-1.5 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10-15min, then continuously heating to 88-90 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.5-1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 30-60 min, dyeing, and then cooling to 70 ℃ after dyeing to prepare post-treatment;

II, adding 1.0-2.0% of soda ash for neutralization, heating to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 15-20 min, and then cooling to 40 ℃ for discharge;

III, injecting water at 60 ℃ prepared in the auxiliary tank into the main tank, adding 1.0-2.0% of soda ash for neutralization, heating to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 15-20 min, discharging while thoroughly cleaning for 25-30min, finishing washing after dyeing foot water is qualified, and discharging residual liquid;

and IV, injecting the water at the temperature of 45 ℃ prepared in the auxiliary tank into the main tank again, adding 1.0-2.0% of acetic acid or formic acid for neutralization, heating to 50 ℃, preserving heat for 10-15min, adjusting the pH to 6-6.5, and discharging water out of the tank.

The invention comprehensively adopts the HUNSMAN reactive dye for wool to replace the traditional mordant dye; the softened water treated by the system is used for replacing tap water, so that dyeing water with stable water quality can be kept, and the color and quality of wool top dyeing are stable; the excellent environment-friendly low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent is matched, and the low-temperature activity dyeing promotion process is adopted to replace the traditional medium dyeing process, so that the high-temperature treatment degree of the wool is reduced by more than 1/3.

On one hand, the high-temperature treatment time of the wool tops is obviously reduced, so that the energy consumption is saved: the traditional mordant dye (dyeing wool is 98 degrees multiplied by 40-60min, mordant dyeing is 98 degrees multiplied by 40-60min), while the active dye (dyeing wool at low temperature is 88-90 degrees multiplied by 40-60min, total post-treatment time is 80 degrees multiplied by 30min), the energy consumption of comprehensive high-temperature treatment is reduced by more than 1/3; on the other hand, the high-temperature treatment degree of the wool is obviously reduced, the damage to wool top fibers in the dyeing process is obviously reduced, the original excellent properties of the wool fibers, such as loose elasticity and the like, can be fully maintained, and a foundation is laid for the subsequent production and the stable quality of final products.

In addition, the reactive dye is adopted for dyeing, so that the production process really achieves chromium-free and no heavy metal ions polluting the environment are discharged.

Preferably, in the wool fiber, polyester fiber or regenerated fiber worsted ring spinning two-ply yarn process of the step (2): the refined ring-spun two-ply yarn is finished after the yarn is combed by a combing machine, mixed by a strip mixing machine, gilled by a gilling machine, roving by a roving machine, spun yarn by a spinning frame, steamed yarn by a steaming machine, spooled by an automatic spooler, doubled by a high-speed doubling machine, double-twisted by a double twister, yarn inspection and yarn warehousing.

Preferably, the open washing and continuous boiling process in the step (4) comprises the following steps: the grey fabric is subjected to open washing and decating by adopting an open washing continuous boiling vehicle, the speed is 28m/min, the dosage of a lotion used for open washing is 0.8-1.5% (owf), the decating temperature is 85 ℃ according to the gram weight of the fabric. After the process is finished, the width of the grey fabric can shrink by 25-30%, and at the moment, the weft elasticity of the grey fabric is extremely high, and the extensibility is good.

Further, the process for filling the middle seam pocket milling cloth in the step (4) comprises the following steps: sewing the heat-set fabric by using an automatic overedger, wherein the front side is inside and the back side is outside after sewing; then, fulling and finishing are carried out on a high-speed washing and shrinking combination machine; the pressure of a roller is adjusted to be 1-1.4bar on the mechanical pressure of the equipment, the pressure of a plate on a box is contracted to be 0.6-1bar, the pressure of the box is required to be noticed that the pressure of the box is not greater than the pressure of the roller, the speed of the vehicle is adjusted to be 150-200m/min, the temperature is 40 ℃, a scouring and shrinking agent is added for 0.8-2% (owf) during production, the mangle rolling rate is controlled to be 80-110%, and the judgment can be carried out by screwing by hand, and a small amount of overflow is preferred. The milling degree needs to be judged by a technician, whether the milling is enough or not is judged according to the size degree of the suede, the tight hand feeling degree, the width and the weft elasticity, and the milling time for producing the varieties is 50-70min/100 m.

The front surface crease is reduced after the bag is sewn, so that the suede is more uniform and dense, and the skewness of the weft is reduced. The scouring and shrinking agent used in the invention has slow action, so that the fulling effect is relatively uniform, and the treated fabric is softer, fluffy and full in hand feeling. The width after the fulling can reach a stable state, and the elasticity is good and the extensibility is good at the moment. The milling is a key process, and the quality of the finished product is mainly determined by the process. For the pilling index, the felting degree and the chemical damage degree of wool fibers after fulling have great influence. The higher the felting degree of the wool fibers and the smaller the chemical damage, the more difficult the wool fibers on the surface of the finished product are to be vertically entangled into balls when the finished product is subjected to repeated friction, the more difficult the wool fibers are to be broken and kneaded into balls, and the better the pilling fastness of the finished product is. However, the degree of felting is too high, and the hand feeling of the finished product tends to be poor. Therefore, the proper felting degree should be controlled to ensure the dual requirements of hand feeling and pilling fastness. When the fulling is finished, the woolen surface wool fibers need to be fine, uniform, full, free from bottom exposure, soft and not tight in touch, and the key point is to hold the fulling degree well.

Preferably, the decating process in the step (4) comprises the following steps: a double-groove crabbing machine is adopted for crabbing procedure, and when the crabbing machine is used, wool fabrics are treated by conduction band tension and rolling in a water bath at 85 ℃ to generate a shaping effect; the tweed surface is smooth after the tweed process, has good hand feeling, luster and elasticity, and simultaneously eliminates creases generated during tweed.

The shearing process comprises the following steps: shearing the front and back sides of the fabric by a single-blade shearing machine, wherein the distance between a circular knife and the surface of the fabric needs to be paid attention to, and shearing and aligning the front and back sides of the suede; after the shearing process, the pilling index is ensured, so that the woolen surface has a velvet feeling and is smooth and fine to touch hands, and wool fibers reflect light uniformly when the grey fabric is finished, so that the woolen fabric looks glossy and natural and presents a high-grade feeling.

The pot steaming process comprises the following steps: the process adopts a pot steaming machine as a pot steaming procedure, treats for 90s under the treatment pressure of 0.7Bar and the starting point of 75 kilograms and the gradually increased winding tension, the steam penetration mode is inner-outer-inner, and the shaping effect is obtained after cooling. The hand feeling, the luster, the elasticity and the dimensional stability of the fabric are improved through the tank steaming process. The steaming strength of the lycra core-spun yarn is moderate, so that the fabric has good dimensional stability, the hand feeling is improved, the fluff on the surface of the fabric is attached to the surface, the touch feeling is fine and soft, the fluffing and pilling of the fabric in the wearing process can be well resisted, and the lycra core-spun yarn has good tensile rate and rebound rate, so that the fabric has good weft elasticity and more flexible hand feeling.

The automatic dyeing equipment comprises a main cylinder, wherein the main cylinder is provided with a main cylinder controller, a feed port, a waste discharge port and a main cylinder heating system, the main cylinder controller controls the main cylinder heating system, and the automatic dyeing equipment is characterized in that: the dyeing equipment also comprises an auxiliary cylinder integrally connected with the main cylinder, the auxiliary cylinder also comprises a water inlet pipe, an auxiliary cylinder controller and an auxiliary cylinder heating system, and the auxiliary cylinder heating system is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller; the auxiliary cylinder is communicated with the main cylinder through a water pipe, a water suction pump is connected to the water pipe, the auxiliary cylinder is used for adding water to the main cylinder through the water suction pump and the water pipe, and the water suction pump is controlled by an auxiliary cylinder controller; the water inlet pipe is provided with a flowmeter and a first electromagnetic valve, the flowmeter is connected with the auxiliary cylinder controller and transmits flow signals, and the first electromagnetic valve is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller; the main cylinder is provided with 4-8 sub-cylinders, the surface of each sub-cylinder is provided with a water through mesh hole, a waste discharge pipe is arranged on the waste discharge port, the waste discharge pipe is provided with a second electromagnetic valve, and the second electromagnetic valve is controlled by the main cylinder controller.

Further, a circulating device is also arranged in the main cylinder, the circulating device comprises a left pipe network, a right pipe network and a circulating water pump, the left pipe network and the right pipe network are both provided with circulating meshes, the left pipe network and the right pipe network are both connected with the circulating water pump, and the circulating water pump is controlled by a main cylinder controller; the circulating device drives the dye liquor in the whole main cylinder to circularly flow, so that on one hand, the uniformity of the dye liquor is improved, and further, the level-dyeing property is improved; on the other hand, the movement of dye liquor molecules is aggravated, and the activity is improved, so that the dyeing fastness is improved. Compared with the conventional stirring device, the stirring device has better effect, and is particularly suitable for the structural characteristics of a plurality of sub-cylinders.

An automatic feeder is arranged on the feeding port and comprises a control panel, a weighing mechanism and a feeding pipe, the weighing mechanism comprises a hopper, a weighing sensor and a discharging pipe, the weighing sensor supports and weighs the hopper, the discharging pipe is connected with the inner cavity of the hopper, the other end of the discharging pipe feeds materials to the feeding pipe, and the feeding pipe is connected with the inner cavity of the main cylinder; the control panel comprises a setting key, a display screen and a built-in feeding controller, the setting key is provided with weight parameters, the display screen displays weighing data, the feeding controller is connected with the weighing sensor and the third electromagnetic valve, and accurately metered raw materials are automatically fed into the main cylinder by controlling the third electromagnetic valve according to the set weight parameters and the weight data detected by the weighing sensor. The feeder of the invention can automatically weigh and feed materials, and the working principle is as follows: the method comprises the steps that firstly, the adding weight of the current raw materials is set in a setting key of a control panel, the weight parameters are stored in a feeding controller, a weighing sensor measures the weight of the current raw materials in a hopper in real time and transmits weight signals to the feeding controller, and the feeding controller controls a third electromagnetic valve to be opened to finish feeding when recognizing that the weight of the current raw materials reaches the adding weight, so that automatic raw material weighing and feeding are realized, and raw materials do not need to be weighed one by one.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the method has the following beneficial effects:

the invention relates to a Yaershuni fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, which adopts a novel spindle spinning mode to coat elastic filaments in yarns, combines ring spindle spun high count yarns with interweaving of the yarns, and then carries out treatment by using a finishing mode of worsted fabrics, thereby obtaining a woven wool fabric which has plump velvet feeling, light and loose texture, high fuzzing and pilling resistance index grade and excellent elasticity function, and simultaneously developing a brand-new field of cross-border design. The concrete beneficial effects are as follows:

1. the wool of the invention adopts Australian Meilino natural wool fiber which is thinner and softer than other wool, has silky softness when being close to skin, and has good fitting property and felting property. Meanwhile, the Meilinuo wool also has the advantages of good antibacterial property, air permeability and the like, and the excellent performances add the high-grade luxury feeling of the fabric.

The elastic force of the fabric is improved by adding the polyester fiber or the regenerated fiber, the lycra or other elastic filaments with the drafting function into the fabric, so that the fabric is full and uniform in velvet feeling, light in texture and elastic, and is comfortable to wear.

2. The invention adopts reactive dye to replace the traditional mordant dye; the softened water treated by the system is used for replacing tap water, so that dyeing water with stable water quality can be kept, and the color and quality of wool top dyeing are stable; the excellent environment-friendly low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent is matched, and the low-temperature activity dyeing promotion process is adopted to replace the traditional medium dyeing process, so that the high-temperature treatment degree of the wool is reduced by more than 1/3.

3. The dyeing process develops special automatic dyeing equipment, which comprises a main cylinder and an auxiliary cylinder which are integrally connected, wherein the auxiliary cylinder provides dyeing water at various temperatures for the main cylinder, and eliminates unnecessary temperature rise working procedures of the main cylinder; set up on the master cylinder and divide the barrel, each divides the barrel and can dye different fibre, reaches the purpose that each fibre was dyed in step, avoids each fibre intercrossing contact, promotes the dyeing effect, and each fibre distinguishes easily and sorts.

The flow meter and the first electromagnetic valve are controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller, and water can be automatically and quantitatively added into the auxiliary cylinder; the second solenoid valve controls the waste discharge.

4. The automatic dyeing equipment is provided with the circulating device, the circulating device drives the dye liquor in the whole main cylinder to circularly flow, so that the uniformity of the dye liquor is improved, and the level-dyeing property is further improved; on the other hand, the movement of dye liquor molecules is aggravated, and the activity is improved, so that the dyeing fastness is improved. Compared with the conventional stirring device, the stirring device has better effect, and is particularly suitable for the structural characteristics of a plurality of sub-cylinders.

The feeder of the invention can automatically weigh and feed materials, and the working principle is as follows: the method comprises the steps that firstly, the adding weight of the current raw materials is set in a setting key of a control panel, the weight parameters are stored in a feeding controller, a weighing sensor measures the weight of the current raw materials in a hopper in real time and transmits weight signals to the feeding controller, and the feeding controller controls a third electromagnetic valve to be opened to finish feeding when recognizing that the weight of the current raw materials reaches the adding weight, so that automatic raw material weighing and feeding are realized, and raw materials do not need to be weighed one by one.

Drawings

The invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a master cylinder of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a master cylinder of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the construction of the slave cylinder;

FIG. 4 is a schematic structural view of a left pipe network;

FIG. 5 is a schematic structural view of an automatic feeder;

FIG. 6 is a schematic structural view of a feeding pipe;

the structure of the left pipe network in fig. 4 is the same as that of the right pipe network.

Detailed Description

The invention provides a Yaershuni fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, and particularly comprises three technical schemes of a Yaershuni elastic fabric, a manufacturing method of the elastic fabric and automatic dyeing equipment used in the manufacturing process of the elastic fabric, wherein the three technical schemes are specifically expressed as follows:

yaershuni fabric

The Yaersu fabric comprises the following components: 90 parts of wool fiber, 15 parts of polyester fiber and 4 parts of lycra; the warp is 10.0-15.6 tex doubled yarn obtained by spinning wool fiber and polyester fiber in a spinning way; the weft yarn is elastic core-spun yarn, and comprises single-strand yarn and core-spun yarn, the single-strand yarn is 32-50 tex single-strand yarn obtained by roving and spinning of wool, polyester fiber or regenerated fiber, and the core-spun yarn is 2.22 tex-4.44 tex lycra or other elastic filament core-spun yarns with a drafting function and is added into the single-strand yarn in a drafting mode. Wherein the polyester fiber is Kanglun fiber, and the elastic filament is Lycra.

The wool of the invention adopts Australian Meilino natural wool fiber which is thinner and softer than other wool, has silky softness when being close to skin, and has good fitting property and felting property. Meanwhile, the Meilinuo wool also has the advantages of good antibacterial property, air permeability and the like, and the excellent performances add the high-grade luxury feeling of the fabric.

The polyester fiber and the lycra are added into the fabric to improve the elasticity of the fabric, so that the fabric is full and uniform in velvet feeling, light in texture and elastic, and is comfortable to wear.

The polyester fiber is the Kanglun fiber, so that the fabric has the functions of sweat discharging, antibiosis and deodorization, and the characteristics of softness, smoothness, comfort and the like are improved.

In addition, the polyester fiber can also be iterative polyester fiber, the fiber has low temperature and environmental protection, saves energy and reduces emission, the lowest dyeing temperature is 60 ℃, and the energy is saved by about 1/2, thereby being worthy of the name of low-carbon and environment-friendly fiber. Has the advantages of hydrophilic comfort, moisture absorption and sweat discharge, low static electricity, no itching, weak pilling, comfort, beautiful appearance, soft hand feeling and the like.

Furthermore, the polyester fiber can be replaced by regenerated fiber, and the regenerated fiber can be one of jute fiber, tencel fiber, viscose-soft fiber or silkworm pupa protein fiber; the tencel can be continuously and naturally regenerated, so that the fabric is easy to degrade, the environment is not polluted, and the environmental protection property is improved.

Further, lycra can be replaced by other elastic filaments with a drawing function, and can be selected from one of spandex, nylon-ammonia coated filaments, latex filaments, XLA fibers, T400 fibers, PBT fibers or CM800 fibers.

The latex filaments are added into the fabric, so that the strength and the heat resistance of the fabric are improved, and only a small amount of latex filaments are added in the fabric, so that the defect of poor resilience of the fabric is small in influence on the whole fabric.

Manufacturing method of II, Yaershuni fabric

The manufacturing method of the Yaersu fabric specifically comprises the following steps:

(1) fiber dyeing:

in automatic dyeing equipment, adopting a Lanasu reactive dye to dye each fiber component at low temperature, wherein the fiber components comprise wool fibers, Corona fibers and Lycra;

i, respectively adding 0.5-1.0% of penetrating agent, 1.0-2.0% of glacial acetic acid with a certain concentration of 97% or high-quality formic acid with a concentration of 85%, 1.0-2.0% of active low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent and 3.0-8.0% of sodium dye with a standard formula into fibers to be dyed at 140-50 ℃ of a main cylinder, firstly heating to 70 ℃ at a heating rate of 1-1.5 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10-15min, then continuously heating to 88-90 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.5-1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 30-60 min, dyeing, and then cooling to 70 ℃ after dyeing to prepare post-treatment;

III, injecting 60 ℃ water prepared in the auxiliary tank 2 into the main tank 1, adding 1.0-2.0% of soda ash for neutralization, heating to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 15-20 min, discharging while thoroughly cleaning for 25-30min, finishing washing after observing that dyeing foot water is qualified, and discharging residual liquid;

and IV, injecting the water at 45 ℃ prepared in the auxiliary tank 2 into the main tank 1 again, adding 1.0-2.0% of acetic acid or formic acid for neutralization, heating to 50 ℃, preserving heat for 10-15min, adjusting the pH value to 6-6.5, and discharging water out of the tank.

The invention comprehensively adopts the HUNSMAN company reactive dye for wool to replace the traditional mordant dye; the softened water treated by the system is used for replacing tap water, so that dyeing water with stable water quality can be kept, and the color and quality of wool top dyeing are stable; the excellent environment-friendly low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent is matched, and the low-temperature activity dyeing promotion process is adopted to replace the traditional medium dyeing process, so that the high-temperature treatment degree of the wool is reduced by more than 1/3.

On one hand, because the high-temperature treatment time of the wool tops is obviously reduced, the energy consumption is saved: the traditional mordant dye (wool is dyed at 98 degrees multiplied by 40-60min, and mordant is dyed at 98 degrees multiplied by 40-60min), while the active dye (wool is dyed at low temperature at 88-90 degrees multiplied by 40-60min, the total post-treatment time is 80 degrees multiplied by 30min), the energy consumption of comprehensive high-temperature treatment is reduced by more than 1/3; on the other hand, the high-temperature treatment degree of the wool is obviously reduced, the damage to wool top fibers in the dyeing process is obviously reduced, the original excellent properties of the wool fibers, such as loose elasticity and the like, can be fully maintained, and a foundation is laid for the subsequent production and the stable quality of final products.

(2) Spinning:

adopting a worsted ring spun two-ply yarn and a slubbing elastic core-spun yarn:

in the spinning ring spinning binary-ply yarn process of the wool fiber and the kanglun fiber: the refined ring-spun two-ply yarn is finished after the fine yarn passes through a combing machine, a strip mixing machine, a gilling machine gilling comb, a roving frame, a spinning frame steaming machine, an automatic winder winding, a high-speed doubling frame doubling, a two-for-one twister double-twisting, a yarn inspection and a yarn storage in sequence. The common spinning technology is adopted, the spinning is stable, and the technology is mature.

In the roving spinning elastic core-spun yarn, wool and kanglun fiber are subjected to wool blending and carding in sequence, 32-50 tex single-strand yarn is spun through a single-side driven full-servo tangential belt frame spinning machine, and the twist is 500 plus 700 twists/meter; when a spinning frame spins the single-strand yarn, the lycra core-spun yarn is added in a drafting mode, the single-strand yarn is coated with lycra 2.22tex to 4.44tex, and the drafting multiple is designed to be 2.5 to 3.5 times;

(3) weaving yarns:

the yarn in the step (2) is warped, drafted and woven to obtain grey cloth, the manufacturing of the yarn is a conventional process, the weaving is stable, and the technology is mature.

(4) And (3) after-finishing process:

the obtained grey cloth is sequentially subjected to open washing, continuous boiling, drying, heat setting, bag sewing and woolen cloth shrinking, untwisting and scutching, woolen cloth boiling, untwisting and scutching, drying, shearing, tentering and can steaming treatment to obtain a finished fabric, and the specific procedures comprise:

1. open washing and continuous boiling: the grey fabric is subjected to open washing and decating by adopting an open washing continuous boiling vehicle, the speed of the vehicle is 28m/min, the dosage of a lotion used for open washing is 0.8-1.5% (owf), the decating temperature is 85 ℃ according to the gram weight of the fabric. After the process is finished, the fabric width can shrink by 25-30%, and the fabric has extremely high weft elasticity and good extensibility. Here, owf is the relative fabric weight percentage, as follows: assuming that 80 kg of fabric are to be open-washed and that the amount of shrink-washing agent used is 1% (owf), this means that 0.8 kg of washing agent is required for open-washing these fabrics, in this particular example the shrink-washing agent is ALCOLAN OL, model number ALCOLAN produced by boster chemical co. The OL scouring agent mainly comprises polyglycol ether-ester, is yellow clear liquid in appearance, is a nonionic surfactant, and can be used for milling and washing wool and blended fabrics thereof.

2. Drying: the fabric is dried by using a multilayer drying fixed car made by UNITECH company of Italy, an open width machine is needed, the drying width is set according to the width after the open washing continuous boiling machine is removed, and meanwhile, a certain overfeeding is assisted to improve the warp direction elasticity. The drying speed is 10-25m/min, and the overfeeding is 6-12% according to the gram weight of the fabric.

3. Heat setting: because the fabric contains the Lycra fiber, a heat setting process is required for dimensional stability, and the dimensional stability of the fabric in the weft direction is improved. The fabric is heat-set by using a tenter setting machine of M5471-CM200X8 type produced by Shaoyang textile machinery Limited company, the heat setting temperature is 185 ℃, the heat setting width is determined according to the actual requirement, the heat setting processing time is 38-60S, and is determined according to the content of Lycra, the fabric width is pulled open after heat setting, and the fabric width has a shrinkage by utilizing the fulling process.

4. Sewing and milling: the heat-set fabric was sewn using an ATH/290 automatic cup seaming machine manufactured by PUGI of Italy, and the sewing machine was capable of automatically recognizing the width of the fabric at a maximum speed of 1250 stitches/min and maintaining a deviation of 100m in sewing within 1.5 cm. The front surface is inside and the back surface is outside after sewing the bag, and the bag sewing function is as follows: reducing front crease, making the suede more uniform and fine, and reducing skewness of weft.

Then, the wool fibers are subjected to fulling finishing on a FLEXIFOLA high-speed washing and shrinking combination machine manufactured by CIMI company of Italy, the wool fibers are repeatedly extruded by mechanical external force under the action of damp heat and chemical reagents, and fiber aggregates are gradually shrunk and tightly interlaced and entangled with each other, so that the wool fibers are interwoven and felted and are called as fulling properties. The characteristic can be divided into two parts of a braking factor and a power factor, wherein the braking factor depends on scales on the surface of wool and scale sharp edges R cutin. The dynamic factor depends on the high stretch-retraction ability of wool and the formation of a permanent, curly, inverted scale larger than a straight scale by the normal and scaly bilateral structures, the difference between which is called the directional friction effect. Formally utilizing the characteristic, the pressure of a roller is adjusted to be 1-1.4bar on the mechanical pressure of the equipment, the pressure of a plate on a box is reduced to be 0.6-1bar, the pressure of the box is required to be noticed not to be greater than the pressure of the roller, otherwise, the problems of Dahua abrasion, scratch and the like can be caused, the speed of the vehicle is adjusted to be 150-200m/min, the temperature is 40 ℃, and the scouring and shrinking agent is added for 0.8-2% (owf) during production

The used shrinkage washing agent is a shrinkage washing agent which is produced by Bossetts chemical engineering Co., Ltd and is ALCOLAN OL, the shrinkage washing agent has slow action, so that the shrinkage effect is relatively uniform, and the treated fabric is softer, fluffy and full in hand feeling. And meanwhile, the mangle ratio (the weight of the cloth after padding-the weight of the cloth before padding)/the weight of the cloth before padding multiplied by 100) is controlled to be 80% -110%, and the judgment can be carried out by twisting by hand, and a small amount of overflow is preferred. The fulling degree needs to be judged by technicians, whether sufficient fulling is judged according to the size degree of the suede, the tight and compact hand feeling, the size of the width and the elasticity of the weft, the time for producing the fulling of the variety is 50-70min/100m, the width after fulling can reach a stable state, and the elasticity and the extensibility are good at the moment. Milling is a key process, and the quality of finished products is mainly determined by the process. For the pilling index, the felting degree and the chemical damage degree of wool fibers after fulling have great influence. The higher the felting degree of the wool fibers and the smaller the chemical damage, the more difficult the wool fibers on the surface of the finished product are to be vertically entangled into balls when the finished product is subjected to repeated friction, the more difficult the wool fibers are to be broken and kneaded into balls, and the better the pilling fastness of the finished product is. However, the degree of felting is too high, and the hand feeling of the finished product tends to be poor. Therefore, the proper felting degree should be controlled to ensure the dual requirements of hand feeling and pilling fastness. When the fulling is finished, the woolen surface wool fibers need to be fine, uniform, full, free from bottom exposure, soft and not tight in touch, and the key point is to hold the fulling degree well.

5. Untwisting and scutching: and (3) untwisting and scutching the fabric by using a CORINO untwisting scutching machine, controlling the mangle expression and reducing the moisture in the fabric.

6. And (3) wool boiling: after the fulling, a decating process is carried out by using an MB031-B double-groove decating machine produced by a Wuxi Kongguang mechanical equipment factory, and during the action, the wool fabric is subjected to proper conduction band tension and rolling treatment in a water bath at a proper temperature of 85 ℃ to generate a shaping effect, so that the surface of the decating is flat and has good hand feeling, gloss and elasticity, and meanwhile, creases generated during the fulling are eliminated.

7. Untwisting and scutching: and (3) untwisting and scutching the fabric by using a CORINO untwisting scutching machine, and controlling the mangle expression.

8. Drying: the multilayer drying fixed car fabric manufactured by UNITECH company of Italy is used for drying, an open width is needed for loading, the drying width is set according to the actually measured width after the decating is loaded, and meanwhile, certain overfeeding is assisted. When drying, the speed is 10-25m/min, the overfeed is 6-12%, depending on the gram weight of the fabric, the two side needle plates are utilized to apply weft tension to the fabric under open width, the fabric is pulled while being dried, the fabric is flattened, the weft of the fabric is shaped, the hand feeling is improved, and the hand feeling is softer and thinner than that before.

9. Shearing: after judging that the fulling meets the requirements, shearing the front and back sides of the fulling on a domestic single-blade shearing machine of ME503D type produced by Haining textile machinery factory, and shearing and aligning the front and back sides of the pile surface by paying attention to the distance between the circular knife and the surface of the fabric; after the wool shearing process, the pilling index is ensured, so that the wool surface has a velvet feeling and is smooth and fine to touch the hands, and wool fibers reflect light uniformly when the grey fabric is finished, so that the wool fabric looks glossy and natural and presents a high-grade feeling.

10. Tentering: and (3) tentering the sheared fabric by a UNITECH drying and setting machine, wherein the setting of the width is to add 2-4cm on the basis of the original width, and finishing the skewness by using a pinwheel weft straightening machine to prepare for next pot steaming.

11. Steaming in a pot: a KD-95 can steaming machine is adopted to carry out the can steaming process, 75 kilograms is taken as a starting point under the treatment pressure of 0.7Bar, the processing is carried out for 90 seconds under the gradually increased winding tension, the steam penetration mode is inner-outer-inner, and the shaping effect is obtained after cooling. The hand feeling, the luster, the elasticity and the dimensional stability of the fabric are improved through the tank steaming process. The steaming strength of the fabric is moderate, so that the fabric has good dimensional stability, the hand feeling is improved, the fluff on the surface of the fabric is attached to the surface, the touch feeling is fine and soft, the fabric can better resist fluffing and pilling in the wearing process, and the lycra core-spun yarn has good tensile rate and rebound rate, so that the fabric has good weft elasticity and more flexible hand feeling.

Third, automatic dyeing equipment

The automatic dyeing equipment comprises a main cylinder 1 and an auxiliary cylinder 2, wherein the main cylinder 1 is provided with a main cylinder controller 11, a feeding port, a waste discharge port and a main cylinder heating system, the main cylinder controller 11 controls the main cylinder heating system, and the main cylinder heating system is a common heating system of a dyeing machine and can realize functions of constant-speed temperature rise, heat preservation and the like; the feed port is provided with an automatic feeder 3 for feeding various raw materials for dyeing; the waste discharge port is connected with a waste discharge pipe 13, and the waste discharge pipe 13 is connected to the lower end of the main cylinder 1, is connected to a sewer pipeline and is used for discharging waste liquid in the main cylinder 1.

The auxiliary cylinder 2 comprises a water inlet pipe 23, an auxiliary cylinder controller 21 and an auxiliary cylinder heating system, and the auxiliary cylinder heating system is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller 21; the auxiliary cylinder heating system is a conventional heating system, has the functions of heating and heat preservation, but does not have the function of constant-speed temperature rise. The water inlet pipe 23 is externally connected with a water source and is used for adding water to the auxiliary tank 2.

The main cylinder 1 and the auxiliary cylinder 2 are integrally connected to form a dyeing machine whole body, the main cylinder 1 and the auxiliary cylinder 2 are mutually communicated through a water pipe 12, a water suction pump 22 is connected to the water pipe 12, the auxiliary cylinder 2 adds water to the main cylinder 1 through the water suction pump 22 and the water pipe 12, and the water suction pump 22 is controlled by an auxiliary cylinder controller 21; the water suction pump 22 is installed on the auxiliary cylinder 2, the water through pipe 12 extends into the bottom of the inner cavity of the auxiliary cylinder 2, the bottom surface of the auxiliary cylinder 2 is in an inclined state, the water suction port of the water through pipe 12 is located at the lowest position of the inclined surface, and thorough water suction is facilitated;

a flowmeter 24 and a first electromagnetic valve 25 are arranged on the water inlet pipe 23, the flowmeter 24 is connected with the auxiliary cylinder controller 21 and transmits flow signals, and the first electromagnetic valve 25 is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller 21; the automatic quantitative water adding can be realized, firstly, the water adding amount is input into the auxiliary cylinder controller 21, then the first electromagnetic valve 25 is opened, the water is added into the auxiliary cylinder 2, the inflow water amount is monitored in real time through the flowmeter 24, and after the rated water amount is reached, the auxiliary cylinder controller 21 closes the first electromagnetic valve 25, and the automatic water adding is completed.

The main cylinder 1 is provided with 4-8 sub-cylinders 14, the cylinder opening of the sub-cylinder 14 is arranged at the upper end of the main cylinder 1, each dyed fiber is conveniently added, the surface of the sub-cylinder 14 is provided with water-through mesh holes 141, and dye liquid can flow in or be discharged through the communication of the water-through mesh holes 141 and the inner cavity of the main cylinder 1. Each divides barrel 14 can dye different fibre, reaches the purpose that each fibre was dyed in step, avoids each fibre intercrossing contact, promotes the dyeing effect, and each fibre is distinguished and is sorted easily.

The waste discharge port is provided with a waste discharge pipe 13, the waste discharge pipe 13 is provided with a second electromagnetic valve 131, and the second electromagnetic valve 131 is controlled by the master cylinder controller 11.

A circulating device is also arranged in the main cylinder 1, the circulating device comprises a left pipe network 17, a right pipe network 18 and a circulating water pump 15, and the left pipe network 17 and the right pipe network 18 are both provided with circulating meshes 171 which can pass in and out the dye liquor; the left pipe network 17 and the right pipe network 18 are both connected with a circulating water pump 15 through a circulating pipe 16, and the circulating water pump 15 is controlled by the master cylinder controller 11; the circulating pump of the invention is arranged at the upper end in the main cylinder 1 and can prevent dye liquor from flowing back. The circulating device drives the dye liquor in the whole main cylinder 1 to circularly flow, so that on one hand, the uniformity of the dye liquor is improved, and further, the level-dyeing property is improved; on the other hand, the movement of dye liquor molecules is aggravated, and the activity is improved, so that the dyeing fastness is improved. Compared with the conventional stirring device, the stirring device has better effect, and is particularly suitable for the structural characteristics of a plurality of sub-cylinders 14.

In addition, the left pipe network 17 and the right pipe network 18 can be a single pipe type, a double pipe type or a multi-pipe type, wherein a multi-pipe type is adopted in fig. 4, and the circulation efficiency is high.

An automatic feeder 3 is arranged on the feeding port, the automatic feeder 3 comprises a control panel 32, a weighing mechanism and a feeding pipe 36, and the weighing mechanism comprises a hopper 31, a weighing sensor 37 and a discharging pipe 311; a discharge plate 38 is arranged at the port position of the feeding pipe 36, the discharge plate 38 is communicated with the feeding pipe 36, the discharge plate 38 is in an open shape, a supporting plate 381 is connected between the discharge plate 38 and the feeding pipe, the weighing sensor 37 is arranged on the supporting plate 381, and the weighing hopper 31 is supported and weighed by the weighing sensor 37; the lowest position of the inner cavity of the hopper 31 is connected with a discharge pipe 311, the other end of the discharge pipe 311 feeds materials to the opening of the discharge plate 38, and the discharge pipe 311 is connected with a third electromagnetic valve 312 for controlling the opening and closing of the discharge pipe 311.

The control panel 32 comprises a setting key 35, a display screen 33 and a built-in feeding controller 34, wherein the setting key 35 is used for setting weight parameters, the display screen 33 is used for displaying weighing data, the feeding controller 34 is connected with a weighing sensor 37 and a third electromagnetic valve 312, and accurately metered raw materials are automatically fed into the main cylinder 1 by controlling the third electromagnetic valve 312 according to the set weight parameters and the weight data detected by the weighing sensor 37. The feeder of the invention can automatically weigh and feed materials, and the working principle is as follows: firstly, the added weight of the current raw material is set in a setting key 35 of a control panel 32, the weight parameter is stored in a feeding controller 34, a weighing sensor 37 measures the weight of the current raw material in a hopper 31 in real time and transmits a weight signal to the feeding controller 34, and the feeding controller 34 controls a third electromagnetic valve 312 to be opened to finish feeding when recognizing that the weight of the current raw material reaches the added weight, so that automatic raw material weighing and feeding are realized, and the raw materials are not required to be weighed one by one.

The above is only a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the technical features of the present invention are not limited thereto. Any simple changes, equivalent substitutions or modifications made on the basis of the present invention to solve the same technical problems and achieve the same technical effects are all covered in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The manufacturing method of the Yaersu fabric is characterized in that: the Yaersu fabric comprises the following components: 70-98 parts of wool fibers, 0-28 parts of regenerated fibers and 2-4 parts of lycra or other elastic filaments with a drafting function, wherein warp yarns are 10.0-15.6 tex doubled yarns obtained by spinning the wool fibers and the regenerated fibers in a spinning manner; the weft yarn is elastic core-spun yarn, which comprises single-strand yarn and core-spun yarn, the single-strand yarn is 32-50 tex single-strand yarn obtained by wool and regenerated fiber through roving spinning, and the core-spun yarn is 2.22 tex-4.44 tex lycra or other elastic filament core-spun yarns with the drafting function and is added into the single-strand yarn through drafting; the regenerated fiber is one of a Modal fiber, a tencel fiber, a viscose-soft fiber or a silkworm pupa protein fiber; the elastic filament with the drawing function is one of spandex, polyamide-ammonia coated filament, latex filament, XLA fiber, T400 fiber, PBT fiber or CM800 fiber;

the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:

(1) fiber dyeing: in automatic dyeing equipment, adopting a Lanasu reactive dye to dye each fiber component at low temperature, wherein the fiber component comprises wool fiber, regenerated fiber, Lycra or other elastic filaments with a drafting function; the method comprises the following steps:

i, respectively adding 0.5-1.0% of penetrating agent, 1.0-2.0% of formic acid with the concentration of 85%, 1.0-2.0% of active low-temperature dyeing auxiliary agent and 3.0-8.0% of rhodoxanthin dye with a standard formula into fibers to be dyed at the temperature of 40-50 ℃ of a main cylinder, firstly heating to 70 ℃ at the heating rate of 1-1.5 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10-15min, then continuously heating to 88-90 ℃ at the heating rate of 0.5-1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 30-60 min, dyeing, and then cooling to 70 ℃ to prepare post-treatment after dyeing is completed;

III, injecting water at 60 ℃ prepared in an auxiliary tank into the main tank, adding 1.0-2.0% of soda ash for neutralization, heating to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 15-20 min, carrying out thorough cleaning while feeding, for 25-30min, finishing washing after dyeing foot water is qualified, and draining residual liquid;

IV, injecting the water at the temperature of 45 ℃ prepared in the auxiliary tank into the main tank again, adding 1.0-2.0% of acetic acid or formic acid for neutralization, heating to 50 ℃, preserving heat for 10-15min, adjusting the pH to 6-6.5, and discharging water out of the tank;

the automatic dyeing equipment comprises a main cylinder, a secondary cylinder, a water inlet pipe, a secondary cylinder controller and a secondary cylinder heating system, wherein the main cylinder is provided with a main cylinder controller, a feeding port, a waste discharge port and a main cylinder heating system; the auxiliary cylinder is communicated with the main cylinder through a water service pipe, a water suction pump is connected to the water service pipe, the auxiliary cylinder adds water to the main cylinder through the water suction pump and the water service pipe, and the water suction pump is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller; a flowmeter and a first electromagnetic valve are arranged on the water inlet pipe, the flowmeter is connected with the auxiliary cylinder controller and transmits flow signals, and the first electromagnetic valve is controlled by the auxiliary cylinder controller; the main cylinder is provided with 4-8 sub-cylinders, the surface of each sub-cylinder is provided with water-through mesh holes, the waste discharge port is provided with a waste discharge pipe, the waste discharge pipe is provided with a second electromagnetic valve, and the second electromagnetic valve is controlled by the main cylinder controller;

a circulating device is further arranged in the main cylinder and comprises a left pipe network, a right pipe network and a circulating water pump, wherein the left pipe network and the right pipe network are both provided with circulating meshes, the left pipe network and the right pipe network are both connected with the circulating water pump, and the circulating water pump is controlled by the main cylinder controller; an automatic feeder is arranged on the feeding port and comprises a control panel, a weighing mechanism and a feeding pipe, the weighing mechanism comprises a hopper, a weighing sensor and a discharging pipe, the weighing sensor supports and weighs the hopper, the discharging pipe is connected with the inner cavity of the hopper, the other end of the discharging pipe feeds materials to the feeding pipe, and the feeding pipe is connected with the inner cavity of the main cylinder;

the control panel comprises a setting key, a display screen and a built-in feeding controller, the setting key is provided with a weight parameter, the display screen displays weighing data, the feeding controller is connected with the weighing sensor and a third electromagnetic valve, and accurately metered raw materials are automatically fed into the main cylinder by controlling the third electromagnetic valve according to the set weight parameter and the weight data detected by the weighing sensor;

(2) spinning: adopting a worsted ring spun two-ply yarn and a slubbing elastic core-spun yarn; in the roving spinning elastic core-spun yarn, wool and regenerated fiber are subjected to wool blending and carding in sequence, and then 32-50 tex single-strand yarn is spun by a single-side driven full-servo tangential belt frame spinning machine, wherein the twist is 500 plus 700 twists/meter; when a spinning machine spins the single-strand yarn, lycra or other elastic filament core-spun yarns with the drafting function are added in a drafting mode, the single-strand yarn is coated with lycra or other elastic filaments with the drafting function by 2.22tex to 4.44tex, and the drafting multiple is designed to be 2.5 to 3.5 times;

(3) weaving yarns: the yarn in the step (2) is subjected to warping, drafting and weaving to obtain grey cloth;

(4) and (3) after-finishing process: sequentially carrying out open washing, continuous boiling, drying, heat setting, bag sewing and wool milling, untwisting and scutching, wool boiling, untwisting and scutching, drying, shearing, tentering and can steaming on the obtained grey cloth to obtain a finished fabric;

the bag sewing and milling process comprises the following steps: sewing the heat-set fabric by using an automatic overedger, wherein the front side is inside and the back side is outside after sewing; then, fulling and finishing are carried out on a high-speed washing and shrinking combination machine; the mechanical pressure of the equipment is adjusted to be 1-1.4bar, the pressure of a shrinking plate on a shrinking box is 0.6-1bar, the pressure of the shrinking box is required to be not more than the pressure of the roller, the vehicle speed is adjusted to be 150-200m/min, the temperature is 40 ℃, a scouring and shrinking agent is added for 0.8-2% (owf) during production, the mangle rolling rate is controlled to be 80-110%, and the shrinking time is 50-70min/100 m.

2. The manufacturing method of the Yaersui fabric according to claim 1, wherein: in the wool fiber and regenerated fiber worsted ring spinning two-ply yarn process in the step (2): the worsted ring spun two-ply yarn is finished after the worsted machine combing, the mixed sliver machine mixing, the gilling machine gilling, the roving machine roving, the spinning frame spun yarn, the yarn steaming machine yarn steaming, the automatic bobbin winder winding, the high-speed doubling machine doubling, the two-for-one twisting machine double twisting, the yarn inspection and the yarn storage in sequence.

3. The manufacturing method of the Yaersu fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the open washing and continuous boiling process in the step (4) comprises the following steps: the grey fabric is subjected to open washing and decating by adopting an open washing continuous boiling vehicle, the speed of the vehicle is 28m/min, the dosage of a lotion used for open washing is 0.8-1.5% (owf), the decating temperature is 85 ℃ according to the gram weight of the fabric.

4. The manufacturing method of the Yaersu fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the crabbing process in the step (4) comprises the following steps: a double-groove crabbing machine is adopted for crabbing procedure, and during the action, the wool fabric is processed by conduction band tension and rolling in water bath at 85 ℃ to generate a shaping effect; the shearing process comprises the following steps: shearing the front and back sides of the fabric by a single-blade shearing machine, wherein the distance between a circular knife and the surface of the fabric needs to be paid attention to, and shearing and aligning the front and back sides of the suede; the tank steaming process comprises the following steps: the process adopts a pot steaming machine as a pot steaming procedure, treats for 90s under the treatment pressure of 0.7Bar and the starting point of 75 kilograms and the gradually increased winding tension, the steam penetration mode is inner-outer-inner, and the shaping effect is obtained after cooling.