CN111643423A

CN111643423A - Formula and preparation method of whitening and repairing mask

Info

Publication number: CN111643423A
Application number: CN202010599816.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 彭晓丹; 彭斯祺; 彭再辉; 陈小连; 陈超; 王玉苹
Original assignee: Guangzhou Aole Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Aole Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-06-28
Filing date: 2020-06-28
Publication date: 2020-09-11

Abstract

The invention relates to a formula of a whitening and repairing mask, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: phase A: 100% of water, 3-10% of glycerol, 3-10% of butanediol, 0.18-0.30% of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.12-0.30% of crinkle-grass powder, 0.05-1.0% of hydrolyzed jojoba esters, 0.05-0.20% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05-0.20% of sodium polyglutamate, 0.5-1.5% of trehalose and 0.5-1.5% of betaine; phase B: 0.5-2.0% of tranexamic acid, 1.0-3.0% of nicotinamide and 5.0-15.0% of water; and C phase: 3.0-5.0% of a skin conditioner; phase D: 0.10-0.60% of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.10-1.0% of hexanediol; its preparing process is also disclosed. The invention has the advantages that: the niacinamide is matched with tranexamic acid in effect, so that the skin can be brightened after the skin is used for 15 minutes, the skin can be brightened after the skin is used for three times every week, and the skin can be brightened after two weeks.

Description

Formula and preparation method of whitening and repairing mask

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a formula and a preparation method of a whitening and repairing facial mask.

Background

Skin cells require sufficient energy to perform daily physiological functions such as: the production of new cells, the synthesis of collagen, the production of fats and proteins, the synthesis of DNA, etc. Aging often causes the decline of cell activity energy, which results in slow cell renewal, hyperpigmentation, decreased skin hydration, uneven cutin, etc.

In general, the stratum corneum is one of the most important barrier functions, which is effective in preventing the transdermal diffusion and loss of water. When the stratum corneum of the skin is damaged, natural water is lost more quickly. While dry skin reduces softness, making the skin more vulnerable and the less barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provides a formula and a preparation method of a whitening and repairing facial mask.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

the formula of the whitening and repairing mask comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

phase A: 100% of water, 3-10% of glycerol, 3-10% of butanediol, 0.18-0.30% of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.12-0.30% of crinkle-grass powder, 0.05-1.0% of hydrolyzed jojoba esters, 0.05-0.20% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05-0.20% of sodium polyglutamate, 0.5-1.5% of trehalose and 0.5-1.5% of betaine;

phase B: 0.5-2.0% of tranexamic acid, 1.0-3.0% of nicotinamide and 5.0-15.0% of water;

and C phase: 3.0-5.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.10-0.60% of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.10-1.0% of hexanediol.

Further, the formula of the whitening and repairing mask comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

phase A: 65% of water, 6% of glycerol, 7% of butanediol, 0.22% of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.18% of crinkle carrageenan, 0.5% of hydrolyzed jojoba esters, 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1% of sodium polyglutamate, 1.0% of trehalose and 1.0% of betaine;

phase B: 1.2% of tranexamic acid, 2.0% of nicotinamide and 10.0% of water;

and C phase: 4.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.50 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 percent of hexanediol.

Further, the skin conditioner is a mixture of dendrobium officinale stem extract, dipropylene glycol and water, and the weight ratio of the dendrobium officinale stem extract to the dipropylene glycol is 1:5: 44.

Furthermore, the phase D also contains essence.

The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask comprises the following steps:

s1, heating the phase A to 85 ℃, keeping the temperature to 80 ℃, stirring and dissolving completely, and cooling;

s2, adding the phase B at 50 ℃, preserving heat to dissolve completely, and stirring uniformly;

s3, adding the phase C at 45 ℃, and stirring uniformly;

and S4, adding the phase D at 40 ℃, uniformly stirring, discharging after the physicochemical indexes are qualified, and cooling to normal temperature.

Further, in step S1, the temperature is raised to 85 ℃ at a rate of 2 to 4 ℃/min, then slowly lowered to 80 ℃ at a rate of 0.2 to 0.6 ℃/min while stirring at a rate of 20 to 30rpm, and then cooled in air after completely dissolving.

Further, in step S2, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after the stirring is uniform, the temperature is cooled to 45 ℃ by air cooling.

Further, in step S3, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after the stirring is uniform, the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃ by air cooling.

Further, in step S4, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after the stirring is uniform, the temperature is cooled to room temperature by air cooling.

Further, in each step, a positive and negative alternating stirring method is adopted for stirring during stirring, and the interval period of the positive and negative alternating is 1-2 min.

The invention has the following advantages:

1. the invention adopts the dendrobium officinale stem extract and the nicotinamide to repair the skin barrier function.

2. The product of the invention adopts nicotinamide matched with tranexamic acid in effect, can brighten skin after being used for 15 minutes, is used for three times every week, and can brighten skin after being used for two weeks.

Detailed Description

The invention is further described below with reference to examples, but the scope of the invention is not limited to the following.

[ example 1 ]

phase A: 100% of water, 3% of glycerol, 10% of butanediol, 0.18% of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.30% of crinkle grass powder, 0.050% of hydrolyzed jojoba esters, 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.20% of sodium polyglutamate, 1.5% of trehalose and 0.5% of betaine;

phase B: 2.0% of tranexamic acid, 1.0% of nicotinamide and 15.0% of water;

and C phase: 3.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.60 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.10 percent of hexanediol.

Furthermore, the phase D also contains essence.

s1, heating the phase A to 85 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 4 ℃/min when the temperature is raised, slowly cooling to 80 ℃ after the temperature is raised to 85 ℃, the cooling speed is 0.2 ℃/min when the temperature is stirred, the stirring speed is 30rpm when the temperature is stirred, and cooling in air after the temperature is completely dissolved;

s2, adding the phase B at 50 ℃, preserving heat and dissolving completely, stirring at 20rpm for 20min, cooling to 45 ℃ in air after stirring uniformly;

s3, adding the phase C at 45 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 20rpm for 20min, and after uniform stirring, cooling to 40 ℃ in air;

and S4, adding the phase D at 40 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 20rpm for 20min, cooling to room temperature by air cooling after uniform stirring, and discharging after the physicochemical indexes are qualified.

Further, in each step, during stirring, a positive and negative alternating stirring method is adopted for stirring, and the interval period of positive and negative alternation is 1 min.

[ example 2 ]

phase A: water to 100%, glycerin 6%, butanediol 7%, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.24%, Chondrus crispus powder 0.21%, hydrolyzed jojoba esters 0.5%, sodium hyaluronate 0.10%, sodium polyglutamate 0.10%, trehalose 1.0%, and betaine 1.0%;

phase B: 1.2% of tranexamic acid, 2.0% of nicotinamide and 10.0% of water;

and C phase: 4.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.50 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 percent of hexanediol.

Furthermore, the phase D also contains essence.

s1, heating the phase A to 85 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 3 ℃/min when the temperature is raised, slowly cooling to 80 ℃ after the temperature is raised to 85 ℃, the cooling speed is 0.4 ℃/min when the temperature is raised, the stirring speed is 25rpm when the temperature is stirred, and cooling in air after the temperature is completely dissolved;

s2, adding the phase B at 50 ℃, preserving heat and dissolving completely, stirring at the speed of 30rpm for 15min, uniformly stirring, and cooling to 45 ℃ in air;

s3, adding the phase C at 45 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 30rpm for 15min, and after uniform stirring, cooling to 40 ℃ in air;

and S4, adding the phase D at 40 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 30rpm for 15min, cooling to room temperature by air cooling after uniform stirring, and discharging after the physicochemical indexes are qualified.

Further, in each step, during stirring, a positive and negative alternating stirring method is adopted for stirring, and the interval period of positive and negative alternation is 1.5 min.

[ example 3 ]

phase A: 100% of water, 10% of glycerol, 3% of butanediol, 0.30% of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.12% of crinkle grass powder, 1.0% of hydrolyzed jojoba esters, 0.20% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05% of sodium polyglutamate, 0.5% of trehalose and 1.5% of betaine;

phase B: 0.5% of tranexamic acid, 3.0% of nicotinamide and 5.0% of water;

and C phase: 5.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.10 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1.0 percent of hexanediol.

Furthermore, the phase D also contains essence.

s1, heating the phase A to 85 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 2 ℃/min when the temperature is raised, slowly cooling to 80 ℃ after the temperature is raised to 85 ℃, the cooling speed is 0.6 ℃/min when the temperature is raised, the stirring speed is 20rpm when the temperature is stirred, and cooling in air after the temperature is completely dissolved;

s2, adding the phase B at 50 ℃, preserving heat and dissolving completely, stirring at 40rpm for 10min, cooling to 45 ℃ in air after stirring uniformly;

s3, adding the phase C at 45 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 40rpm for 10min, and after uniform stirring, cooling to 40 ℃ in air;

and S4, adding the phase D at 40 ℃, uniformly stirring at the stirring speed of 40rpm for 10min, cooling to room temperature by air cooling after uniform stirring, and discharging after the physicochemical indexes are qualified.

Further, in each step, during stirring, a positive and negative alternating stirring method is adopted for stirring, and the interval period of positive and negative alternation is 2 min.

Nicotinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is one of the B vitamins. The appearance was white crystalline powder.

The nicotinamide residual nicotinic acid content is extremely low, and the skin can not be discomforted.

Melanin is a main reason influencing skin whitening, the skin whitening must be started from the influence of the melanin on the skin, and the skin whitening and repairing barrier principle of nicotinamide has three points:

(one) act on the melanin already produced to reduce its transfer to the surface layer cells

Since only melanin is transferred to keratinocytes, the skin appears dark. Nicotinamide acts on the produced melanin, and effectively inhibits the transfer of about 35 to 40 percent of the melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing excessive pigmentation.

Niacinamide is effective in preventing the appearance of pigments on the skin surface and 3D skin models demonstrate that niacinamide can reduce the mottle on the skin. Clinical tests show that under the safe mode, the nicotinamide has obvious brightening and whitening effects on the skin, and the effect is safer when being compared with hydroquinone.

(II) accelerating metabolism and promoting the exfoliation of melanocytes containing melanin

Nicotinamide is directly taken up by the cells due to its small size. It has been shown that niacinamide penetrates deeper into the skin within 120 minutes for longer periods of time. The niacinamide can penetrate the waterproof layer of the stratum corneum of the skin and directly act on the inner skin. Clinical experiments prove that proper nicotinamide is smeared on the cuticle of the epidermis to form nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (coenzyme I) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (coenzyme II) together with ribose, phosphate and adenine in vivo, so that the generation of energy molecules is improved to supplement cell energy. This is because cellular energy can be transmitted through the epidermis of the stratum corneum, to the connective tissue between the dermis, to the fibers within the connective tissue, and to the lowest layer of cells.

Nicotinamide can keep skin energy balance, recover cell energy, and accelerate collagen synthesis, thereby avoiding melanin hyperpigmentation caused by low oil content and thin cuticle of skin. Moreover, niacinamide promotes the exfoliation of melanin-containing keratinocytes by accelerating skin turnover. Nicotinamide can accelerate DNA repair and significantly reduce the occurrence of immunosuppression. Simultaneously inhibiting ATP level reduction caused by UV, and preventing cell energy crisis

(III) epidermal barrier Care

Nicotinamide can promote the synthesis of epidermal protein, enhance the self defense capability of skin and increase the moisture content of skin. Enhancing the barrier function of the skin. Imagine that an eroded dam is susceptible to water leakage, and niacinamide, like a dam repair coating, enhances the skin barrier's resistance to damage in a number of ways, more effectively keeping the skin moist.

Niacinamide helps to build a healthy perfect skin barrier, helps the skin to retain moisture and normality by balancing ceramides and fatty acids of the stratum corneum, and increases skin flexibility by promoting keratinocyte differentiation and maintaining the stratum corneum to function intact.

Nicotinamide PC helps the skin to retain moisture and normal state by balancing the ceramides and fatty acids of the stratum corneum.

Tranexamic acid is also known as: tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid. Is white crystalline powder, odorless, slightly bitter, soluble in water, and hardly soluble in ethanol, acetone, chloroform or diethyl ether.

The tranexamic acid is a protease inhibitor, which can inhibit the catalytic action of protease on the hydrolysis of peptide bond, thereby preventing the activity of enzyme such as inflammatory protease, further inhibiting the disorder of epidermal cell function at the black spot part, inhibiting the melanin-strengthening factor group, and completely cutting off the generation path of melanin formed by ultraviolet irradiation. The black spot is not thickened, enlarged or increased any more, and the pigmentation of the skin can be effectively prevented and improved.

Compared with the traditional whitening component, the tranexamic acid can express stable effect, is limited by high-temperature manufacturing environment, does not need the protective transmission effect of various carriers, still can achieve the whitening effect and has no irritation.

Dendrobium officinale is a perennial epiphytic grass plant of the genus Dendrobium of the family Orchidaceae, also known as Heijiegrass, Feihulan, and has reputations of "life saving Mesona" and "China Mesona". In China, the dendrobium officinale is a rare endangered plant which is important for secondary protection in China, is produced in southwest of Anhui province, eastern Zhejiang, western Fujian province, northwest of Guangxi, Sichuan and southeast of Yunnan, has extremely low natural reproduction rate and slow growth, and is overgrown with excessive mining, so that the wild dendrobium officinale is endangered. Dendrobium officinale is one of 5 dendrobium plants collected in pharmacopoeia of the people's republic of China. Research results show that the dendrobium officinale contains polysaccharide flavonoids, phenols, vitamins, amino acids and other substances, and the substances have the effects of resisting oxidation and aging, treating certain diseases and the like. The dendrobium officinale can activate the sensitivity of aquaporin and improve the hydration ability of skin. Increase the expression of aquaporin-3 and mRNA in fibroblasts, and improve the skin hydration ability. The dendrobium officinale polysaccharide can transfer water, glycerol and urea to aquaporin AQP-3 distributed in the skin. It can carry water, glycerin, triglyceride in sebaceous gland into epidermis from internal circulation, and continuously supply water to epidermis. Has important significance for repairing and moisturizing the barrier of the epidermis.

The Dendrobium officinale has the functions of growth regulating factors, regulating cell growth, resisting various severe environments and accelerating metabolism. Has obvious effect of repairing the damage of keratinocytes. Repairing the damage of oxygen free radicals to cell DNA. The dendrobium officinale can improve the water content of human skin, and the emulsion matrix containing the dendrobium officinale has higher water calibration improvement rate than a blank matrix; the skin hydration degree is gradually improved and is better than that of the blank matrix emulsion. The dendrobium officinale extract has a certain moisturizing effect under a formula system. Although the moisture absorption of the dendrobium polysaccharide is not as good as that of glycerol and the moisture retention is not as good as that of chitosan, the dendrobium polysaccharide has more stable moisture absorption and retention effects, has no irritation to normal and damaged skin, can provide skin nutrients to soften the skin, can reduce the hardness of the skin, improves the skin barrier and promotes metabolism.

Some performance index tests were performed on the test products as follows:

1. appearance: a clear colorless liquid.

pH value: 4.0-8.5.

3. Heat resistance stability study (40. + -. 1 ℃ X24 h): and (4) passing.

4. Cold resistance stability study (5. + -. 1 ℃ X24 h): and (4) passing.

And (3) testing:

60 volunteers were selected and divided into 3 test controls, 20 individuals each, panel 1 with the product of example 1, panel 2 with the product obtained in example 2, and panel 3 with the product of example 3 (25g mask liquid + nonwoven) applied to the face 3 times a week for 15 minutes each for a month.

Instrument for effect detection

Visia skin detector for detecting skin color spot change

Skin ultrasonic diagnostic apparatus germany UC 22: detecting skin thickness

The clinical test result of the product is as follows:

from the results of clinical trials, all the examples have no anaphylactic reaction, and the product of example 2 has the best whitening and repairing effects.

The product performance evaluation test is as follows: (optional example 2)

The skin irritation test comprises the following steps:

randomly selecting 60 people, applying the facial mask one piece (25g facial mask liquid + non-woven fabric) for each time, randomly administering the product or blank substrate three times a week on the left side or the right side, performing a self-control test method, and observing and recording the skin reaction phenomena after 15 minutes, 24 hours and 48 hours.

(II) evaluation of whitening and repairing efficacy

Test objects:

60 women aged between 20-50 years

Pretreatment: subjects stopped other various treatments for whitening and repair and avoided direct exposure to sunlight at least 3 days prior to the study, and throughout the study.

The treatment method comprises the following steps:

the facial mask containing the above formula (25g facial mask liquid + nonwoven fabric) was applied to the face three times a week in five groups arbitrarily for a total of 8 weeks (three times a week).

And (3) testing results:

item	Is used for 1 time	It is administered for 1 week	It is administered for 4 weeks	It is used for 8 weeks
					Obvious whitening effect	10 persons	35 people	48 persons	48 persons
Obvious repair	2 persons	20 persons	40 persons	45 persons
					Obvious whitening and repairing effects	2 persons	20 persons	38 persons	48 persons
High efficiency	3％	33％	63％	80％

The test result shows that the whitening effect can be achieved after one week, and the whitening and repairing effect can reach 80% after eight weeks.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. The formula applied to the whitening and repairing mask is characterized in that: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

and C phase: 3.0-5.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.10-0.60% of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.10-1.0% of hexanediol.

2. The formula of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the formula comprises: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

phase B: 1.2% of tranexamic acid, 2.0% of nicotinamide and 10.0% of water;

and C phase: 4.0% of a skin conditioner;

phase D: 0.50 percent of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 percent of hexanediol.

3. The formula for the whitening and repairing mask as set forth in claim 1 or 2, wherein: the skin conditioner is a mixture of dendrobium officinale stem extract, dipropylene glycol and water, and the weight ratio of the dendrobium officinale stem extract to the dipropylene glycol is 1:5: 44.

4. The formula of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 3, wherein the formula comprises the following components: the phase D also contains essence.

5. The method for preparing a whitening and repairing mask as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:

s3, adding the phase C at 45 ℃, and stirring uniformly;

6. The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 5, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: in step S1, the temperature is slowly reduced to 80 ℃ after the temperature is increased to 85 ℃ at a temperature rise speed of 2-4 ℃/min, the temperature is reduced to 0.2-0.6 ℃/min during stirring at a stirring speed of 20-30 rpm, and the temperature is reduced by air cooling after the materials are completely dissolved.

7. The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 5, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: in step S2, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after uniform stirring, the temperature is cooled to 45 ℃ by air cooling.

8. The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 5, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: in step S3, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after uniform stirring, the temperature is cooled to 40 ℃ by air cooling.

9. The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in claim 5, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: in step S4, the stirring speed is 20-40 rpm, the stirring time is 10-20 min, and after uniform stirring, the mixture is cooled to room temperature by air cooling.

10. The preparation method of the whitening and repairing mask as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 9, wherein the whitening and repairing mask comprises the following steps: in each step, a positive and negative alternative stirring method is adopted for stirring during stirring, and the interval period of positive and negative alternation is 1-2 min.