CN111472078B - Short-process processing method of old-like and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric - Google Patents

Short-process processing method of old-like and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric Download PDF

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CN111472078B
CN111472078B CN202010299774.4A CN202010299774A CN111472078B CN 111472078 B CN111472078 B CN 111472078B CN 202010299774 A CN202010299774 A CN 202010299774A CN 111472078 B CN111472078 B CN 111472078B
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yarn
warp
yarns
fabric
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CN111472078A (en
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黄雪红
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/04Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a short-process processing method of an old-imitation and linen-imitation colored woven fabric, which comprises the following steps: bobbin putting → sizing → pre-baking → upper beam → weaving → rinsing for old making → baking for sizing. The invention puts 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank thread into a material groove through a special yarn winding coating dyeing device, puts coating color paste into the material groove, rotates a roller to bring the paste to the paste, the cotton thread passes through a paste carrying roller, controls the paste carrying rate of the coating color paste on the cotton thread by controlling the tension of the cotton thread, thereby controlling the color depth, dyeing 800 threads at one time, drying the coating with the paste for 2-3 minutes at 120 ℃, carrying out yarn dyeing on the dyed yarn, carrying out chlorine bleaching on the yarn dyed fabric, rinsing the coating with non-crosslinked surface, and then baking and setting at 160 ℃, so that the coating adhered on the yarn is crosslinked, and the color fastness is improved.

Description

Short-process processing method of old-like and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of fabrics in the textile industry, and particularly relates to a short-process processing method of an old-imitation linen yarn-dyed fabric.
Background
The vintage clothing is made up by using a superfine dye Sandozol T with low affinity to cellulose and making it be adsorbed on cationized fibre, and can make the fibre obtain colour, and its washing fastness is moderate, and after the fibre surface is uniformly white-etched by means of bio-enzyme treatment, so that it can obtain the fuzzy white star effect.
An age-imitating reactive dye dyed fabric and an age-imitating method thereof. The method comprises the steps of dyeing a fabric with a reactive dye in an airflow dyeing machine, washing for 10min, draining, blowing for 15min, spraying high-pressure air by the airflow dyeing machine to enable the fabric with moisture to move in the airflow dyeing machine in a circulating manner, introducing ozone, enabling the air pressure to reach 0.3-0.5 bar, operating for 30min, and exhausting; then introducing ozone, enabling the air pressure to reach 0.3-0.5 bar, operating for 30min, and exhausting; and then introducing ozone, enabling the air pressure to reach 0.3-0.5 bar, operating for 30min, exhausting, washing for 6min, draining, washing circulating water at the temperature of 60 ℃ for 6min, draining, and removing residual ozone to obtain the distressed reactive dye dyed fabric. The antique finished yarn dyed fabric has vivid antique depth and nonuniform overall appearance.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a short-process processing method of an old-imitation linen yarn-dyed fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: a short-process processing method of old-like and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric comprises the following steps: putting a thread cylinder on a frame → dyeing sizing → pre-baking → putting a warp beam → weaving → rinsing for old people → baking and shaping; wherein:
dyeing the sizing: the axial line passes through a/b/c/d 4 guide rollers, the two rollers b/c can move up and down to adjust the tension of the line, the two tension rollers b/c move up, the pulp carrying rate is improved, otherwise, the pulp carrying rate is reduced, and the pulp pressing pressure is as follows: 0-7.4KN, and the pulp carrying rate is 0-40%; pouring color paste into a slurry tank from the position where the slurry is added, wherein a partition plate is arranged in the slurry tank, the volume of the slurry tank is 50-56L, the slurry roller rotates reversely to carry the slurry, the rotating speed of the slurry roller is 200 plus 300 revolutions per minute, the running speed of the line is 20-25m/min, a slurry scraper scrapes off the color paste which is sprayed on the bottom due to the action of gravity, and the slurry is kept to be uniformly carried up and down on the line;
the color paste is prepared as follows:
Figure BDA0002453547360000021
weaving:
(1) warping: selecting a Benning grid warping machine for warping, and using a higher warping speed due to thicker warps, wherein the warping speed is 700m/min, and performing collective creeling; the total number of the full-width warp beams is 4374, and the whole warp beams are 7 warp beams, and the warping beam is 624 x 1+625 x 6;
(2) sizing: sizing is not needed, an adhesive is added during pigment dyeing of the yarns, the yarns are hardened, and meanwhile, the yarns are wrapped with a sizing film, so that the breaking elongation is greatly increased, and the method is favorable for reducing broken ends of the warp yarns;
(3) weaving: selecting a GA718 type air jet loom for weaving, wherein the speed of the loom is 520r/min, and the weaving process selects a weaving process of 'middle opening, early weft insertion, low back beam and middle tension';
the opening time is 300 degrees, the number of warps is less, the shed is easy to be clear, and the opening process can meet the weaving requirement in use;
weft insertion process: the initial flying angle of the weft yarn is 90 degrees, the arrival angle of the weft yarn is controlled between 210 degrees and 230 degrees, the release time of the yarn blocking needle is 74 degrees, the air injection time of the main nozzle is 70 degrees to 160 degrees, 7 groups of auxiliary nozzles are used, and the air injection time of each group of auxiliary nozzles is as follows: 70-110 degrees, 92-132 degrees, 113-153 degrees, 135-175 degrees, 156-206 degrees, 178-228 degrees, 200-300 degrees; the air injection time of the front 4 groups of auxiliary nozzles is 40 degrees, the air injection time of the 5 th group and the 6 th group of auxiliary nozzles is 50 degrees, and the end time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles is the same as the leveling time;
air injection pressure: the main jet pressure is controlled to be 0.32MPa-0.37MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is controlled to be 0.37MPa-0.42 MPa;
low back beam: the fabric weave is a warp mountain twill, weft yarns are easy to tighten, a high back beam process is not needed, and a low back beam process is used, so that the lines are clear;
medium tension, wherein the machine tension is 185kg, and the tension is controlled to be about 90 percent of that of the plain weave fabric by using medium machine tension;
(4) desizing: desizing is not needed;
and rinsing and distressing:
the fabric adopts a chlorine bleaching process, sodium hypochlorite destroys a coating dyed on warp yarns and damages yellow pigments on the surfaces of weft yarns and cotton yarns, so that the surface color of the fabric becomes old and white, and the key points are as follows: (1) controlling the pH value to be 7-8; (2) controlling the concentration of sodium hypochlorite and the effective chlorine at 0.5-0.8%, which is changed along with the bath ratio; (3) the bleaching temperature is controlled at 15-20 deg.C, and the bleaching time is 20-30 min.
As an optimization: the raw material specification is as follows: the warp is 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank line; the weft yarn is 32S +40D cotton ammonia core-spun yarn and cotton blank.
As an optimization: pre-baking: because the low-temperature self-crosslinking adhesive is adopted, the drying is needed, and the drying temperature is as follows: 100-105 ℃, and the drying time is as follows: 8-12 min.
As an optimization: the upper beam: the dried cotton threads are uniformly and parallelly wound on a warp beam through a leasing piece, and then wound on a movable warp beam in an inverted mode to be directly woven; the reverse shaft speed is 30-35m/min, and the reverse shaft tension is 200-300N.
As an optimization: baking and shaping: the baking temperature is as follows: 160-165 ℃; the time is as follows: 2-3 min.
As an optimization: twist of yarn: the twist multiplier of the warp yarns is 370 and the twist multiplier of the weft yarns is 340.
As an optimization: the drafting process comprises the following steps: the drafting sequence of the edge yarn is 1, 1, 3 and 3; the drafting method of the ground warp yarns is a mountain-shaped drafting method, and the specific sequence is as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 14 yarns in one drafting cycle, 2 in each reed, and the fabric weave is a warp mountain twill.
As an optimization: and (3) a machining process: the width of a finished product of the fabric is 145cm, the warp density of the finished product is 276/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 198/10 cm, the width of the damaged fabric is 158.5cm, the warp density of the gray fabric is 253/10 cm, the weft density of the gray fabric is 198/10 cm, the number of reed wires on the loom is 122 teeth/10 cm, the total number of warp yarns is 3474, 48 edge yarns are arranged, the number of drafting cycles is 14, and the whole width is 309 cycles.
Has the advantages that: the specific advantages of the invention are as follows:
1. according to the invention, the cotton yarn is not subjected to pretreatment, so that impurities such as pigment cottonseed hulls of the cotton yarn are retained in the fabric, the fabric is rough and hard in hand feeling, yellow in ground color and has a linen-like effect.
2. The invention carries out paint dyeing on the cotton yarn without pretreatment on a special paint yarn dyeing machine, has simple process and no discharge of dyeing sewage.
3. The invention dyes the cotton yarn with the paint, only needs to pre-bake at 120 ℃, because the yarn has light yellow bottom color, the dyed yarn has sub-bright yellow color and has antique feeling, the un-baked yarn is rinsed after being woven into the fabric, the un-crosslinked paint on the surface of the fabric is rinsed and falls off to form the surface antique effect, the un-fallen paint is baked and shaped at 160 ℃, the paint and the fabric achieve the purpose of baking and crosslinking, the color fastness is improved, and the customer requirements are met.
4. The invention saves the procedures of pretreatment, sizing and desizing of the conventional yarn, does not need chemical agents such as sizing agent, caustic soda, hydrogen peroxide, surfactant and the like, consumes water, electricity and steam energy sources such as pretreatment, sizing, desizing and the like, and does not need to discharge pretreatment sewage containing acid, alkali, sizing and the like.
5. The invention has simple process, the product has unique effect, saves water, reduces sewage discharge, and conforms to the concepts of environmental protection, cost reduction, efficiency improvement and clean production.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of a dye-uptake structure of the present invention; 1, a slurry adding part, 2 partition plates, 3 slurry feeding rollers and 4 slurry scraping knives; a/b/c/d 4 guide rollers, and b/c two rollers can move up and down to adjust the tension of the wire.
FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of a card of the fabric of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
The method comprises the steps of winding 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank yarns by special yarn winding paint dyeing equipment, placing paint color paste in a material tank, rotating a roller to bring the paste to the paste, passing the cotton yarns through a paste carrying roller, controlling the paste carrying rate of the paint color paste on the cotton yarns by controlling the tension of the cotton yarns, so as to control the color depth, dyeing 800 yarns at one time, drying the coated yarns at 120 ℃ for 2-3 minutes after the paste is carried by the paint, carrying out color weaving on the dyed yarns, carrying out chlorine bleaching on the dyed fabrics, rinsing off the paint with the surface being not crosslinked, and baking and shaping at 160 ℃, so that the paint adhered to the yarns is crosslinked, and the color fastness is improved.
The process flow of the invention is as follows: bobbin putting → sizing → pre-baking → upper beam → weaving → rinsing for old making → baking for sizing.
1. The raw material specification is as follows: the warp is 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank line; the weft yarn is 32S +40D cotton ammonia core-spun yarn and cotton blank.
2. The color paste is prepared as follows:
the color paste comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002453547360000061
3. dyeing the sizing: the axial line passes through a/b/c/d 4 guide rollers above the schematic diagram, the two rollers b/c can move up and down to adjust the tension of the line, the two tension rollers b/c move up, the pulp carrying rate is improved, otherwise, the pulp carrying rate is reduced, and the pulp pressing pressure is as follows: 0-7.4KN and 0-40% of pulp carrying rate. As shown in a dyeing structure schematic diagram of figure 1, color paste is poured into a slurry tank from a position of a slurry adding position 1, a partition plate 2 is arranged in the slurry tank, the volume of the slurry tank is 50-56L, a slurry feeding roller 3 rotates reversely to carry the slurry, the rotating speed of the slurry feeding roller is 200-300 r/min, the running speed of a line is 20-25m/min, a slurry scraping knife 4 scrapes off the color paste which is sprayed on the bottom due to the action of gravity, and the slurry is kept to be uniformly carried up and down on the line.
4. Pre-baking: because the low-temperature self-crosslinking adhesive is adopted, the drying is needed, and the drying temperature is as follows:
100-105 ℃, and the drying time is as follows: 8-12 min.
5. Go up the warp beam: the dried cotton threads are uniformly and parallelly wound on the warp beam through the leasing piece, and then wound on the movable warp beam reversely, so that the cotton threads can be directly woven. The reverse shaft speed is 30-35m/min, and the reverse shaft tension is 200-300N.
6. Weaving
6.1 Process design of Fabric
(1) Raw yarn: the warp yarn is 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank yarn, and the weft yarn is 32S +40D cotton spandex core-spun yarn and blank cotton.
(2) Twist of yarn: the fabric has good softness, the process needs to select smaller twist, the twist factor of warp yarns is 370, the twist factor of weft yarns is 340, and the softness of the fabric is greatly influenced by the twist.
(3) The drafting process comprises the following steps: the drafting sequence of the edge yarn is 1, 1, 3 and 3; the drafting method of the ground warp yarns is a mountain-shaped drafting method, and the specific sequence is as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 14 yarns in one drafting cycle, 2 in each reed, the weave is a herringbone twill, and the pattern diagram of the fabric is shown in figure 2.
(4) And (3) a machining process: the width of a finished product of the fabric is 145cm, the warp density of the finished product is 276/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 198/10 cm, the width of the damaged fabric is 158.5cm, the warp density of the gray fabric is 253/10 cm, the weft density of the gray fabric is 198/10 cm, the number of reed wires on the loom is 122 teeth/10 cm, the total number of warp yarns is 3474, 48 edge yarns are arranged, the number of drafting cycles is 14, and the whole width is 309 cycles. The warp is 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand dyeing line; the weft yarn is 32S +40D cotton ammonia core-spun yarn and is a blank yarn which is not subjected to pretreatment and dyeing.
6.2 weaving Process
(1) Warping: and warping by using a Beningge warping machine. As the warp yarns are thicker, a higher warping speed is used, the warping speed is 700m/min, and the bobbins are changed collectively. The total number of the beams in the whole width is 4374, the beams are integrated into 7 beams, and the warping distribution is 624 x 1+625 x 6.
(2) Sizing: the sizing is not needed, the adhesive is added when the yarn is dyed by the coating, so that the yarn is hardened, and meanwhile, the sizing film is wrapped outside the yarn, so that the breaking elongation is greatly increased, and the method is favorable for reducing the broken ends of the warp yarns.
(3) Weaving:
the fabric is woven by a GA718 type air jet loom with the speed of 520 r/min. The weaving process adopts a weaving process of 'middle opening, early weft insertion, low back beam and middle tension'.
The opening time is 300 degrees, the number of warps is less, the shed is easy to be clear, and the opening process can meet the weaving requirement in use.
Weft insertion process: the initial flying angle of the weft yarn is 90 degrees, the arrival angle of the weft yarn is controlled between 210 degrees and 230 degrees, the release time of the yarn blocking needle is 74 degrees, the air injection time of the main nozzle is 70 degrees to 160 degrees, 7 groups of auxiliary nozzles are used, and the air injection time of each group of auxiliary nozzles is as follows: 70-110 degrees, 92-132 degrees, 113-153 degrees, 135-175 degrees, 156-206 degrees, 178-228 degrees, 200-300 degrees; the air injection time of the front 4 groups of auxiliary nozzles is 40 degrees, the air injection time of the 5 th group and the 6 th group of auxiliary nozzles is 50 degrees, and the end time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles is the same as the leveling time.
Air injection pressure: the main jet pressure is controlled to be 0.32MPa-0.37MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is controlled to be 0.37MPa-0.42 MPa.
Low back beam: the fabric weave is a mountain twill, the weft yarns are easy to tighten, a high back beam process is not needed, and a low back beam process is used, so that the lines are clear.
The medium tension is 185kg, and the tension is controlled to be about 90 percent of that of the plain weave fabric by using the medium machine tension.
(4) Desizing: no desizing is required.
7. Rinsing and distressing
The fabric adopts a chlorine bleaching process, sodium hypochlorite destroys a coating dyed on warp yarns and damages yellow pigments on the surfaces of weft yarns and cotton yarns, so that the surface color of the fabric becomes old and white, and the key points are as follows: (1) the sodium hypochlorite bleaching process of the fabric mainly controls the pH value of the processing. The concentration of the available chlorine and the reaction speed of the available chlorine and the bleached component can be controlled by controlling the pH value, thereby achieving the purpose of safe bleaching. The pH value is controlled to be 7-8. (2) The concentration of sodium hypochlorite was controlled. The concentration of sodium hypochlorite is high, the concentration of effective chlorine is also high, the bleaching reaction is violent, and the polymerization degree of the fiber or fabric is reduced. The available chlorine is generally controlled to be about 0.5-0.8% (changing with bath ratio). (3) The bleaching temperature is not suitable to exceed 25 ℃, and is generally controlled to be 15-20 ℃. The bleaching time of sodium chlorate is not too long. The viscosity ratio of the fabric is reduced by prolonging the time, and the time is generally 20-30 min.
8. Baking and shaping: the baking temperature is as follows: 160-165 ℃; the time is as follows: 2-3 min.
According to the invention, the cotton yarn is not subjected to pretreatment, so that impurities such as pigment cottonseed hulls of the cotton yarn are retained in the fabric, the fabric is rough and hard in hand feeling, yellow in ground color and has a linen-like effect. The invention carries out paint dyeing on the cotton yarn without pretreatment on a special paint yarn dyeing machine, has simple process and no discharge of dyeing sewage. The invention dyes the cotton yarn with the paint, only needs to pre-bake at 120 ℃, because the yarn has light yellow bottom color, the dyed yarn has sub-bright yellow color and has antique feeling, the un-baked yarn is rinsed after being woven into the fabric, the un-crosslinked paint on the surface of the fabric is rinsed and falls off to form the surface antique effect, the un-fallen paint is baked and shaped at 160 ℃, the paint and the fabric achieve the purpose of baking and crosslinking, the color fastness is improved, and the customer requirements are met. The invention saves the procedures of pretreatment, sizing and desizing of the conventional yarn, does not need chemical agents such as sizing agent, caustic soda, hydrogen peroxide, surfactant and the like, consumes water, electricity and steam energy sources such as pretreatment, sizing, desizing and the like, and does not need to discharge pretreatment sewage containing acid, alkali, sizing and the like. The invention has simple process, the product has unique effect, saves water, reduces sewage discharge, and conforms to the concepts of environmental protection, cost reduction, efficiency improvement and clean production.

Claims (8)

1. A short-process processing method of old-like and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: putting a thread cylinder on a frame → dyeing sizing → pre-baking → putting a warp beam → weaving → rinsing for old people → baking and shaping; wherein:
the pulp feeding and dyeing: the axial line passes through a/b/c/d 4 guide rollers, the two rollers b/c can move up and down to adjust the tension of the line, the two guide rollers b/c move up, the pulp carrying rate is improved, otherwise, the pulp carrying rate is reduced, and the pulp squeezing pressure is as follows: 0-7.4KN, and the pulp carrying rate is 0-40%; pouring color paste into a slurry tank from the position where the slurry is added, wherein a partition plate is arranged in the slurry tank, the volume of the slurry tank is 50-56L, the slurry roller rotates reversely to carry the slurry, the rotating speed of the slurry roller is 200 plus 300 revolutions per minute, the running speed of the line is 20-25m/min, a slurry scraper scrapes off the color paste which is sprayed on the bottom due to the action of gravity, and the slurry is kept to be uniformly carried up and down on the line;
the color paste is prepared as follows:
Figure FDA0003133136030000011
weaving:
(1) warping: selecting a Benning grid warping machine for warping, and using a higher warping speed due to thicker warps, wherein the warping speed is 700m/min, and performing collective creeling; the total number of the full-width warp beams is 4374, and the whole warp beams are 7 warp beams, and the warping beam is 624 x 1+625 x 6;
(2) sizing: sizing is not needed, an adhesive is added during pigment dyeing of the yarns, the yarns are hardened, and meanwhile, the yarns are wrapped with a sizing film, so that the breaking elongation is greatly increased, and the method is favorable for reducing broken ends of the warp yarns;
(3) weaving: selecting a GA718 type air jet loom for weaving, wherein the speed of the loom is 520r/min, and the weaving process selects a weaving process of 'middle opening, early weft insertion, low back beam and middle tension';
the opening time is 300 degrees, the number of warps is less, the shed is easy to be clear, and the opening process can meet the weaving requirement in use;
weft insertion process: the initial flying angle of the weft yarn is 90 degrees, the arrival angle of the weft yarn is controlled between 210 degrees and 230 degrees, the release time of the yarn blocking needle is 74 degrees, the air injection time of the main nozzle is 70 degrees to 160 degrees, 7 groups of auxiliary nozzles are used, the air injection time of the front 4 groups of auxiliary nozzles is 40 degrees, the air injection time of the 5 th group and the 6 th group of auxiliary nozzles is 50 degrees, and the end time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles is the same as the leveling time;
air injection pressure: the main jet pressure is controlled to be 0.32MPa-0.37MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is controlled to be 0.37MPa-0.42 MPa;
low back beam: the fabric weave is a warp mountain twill, weft yarns are easy to tighten, a high back beam process is not needed, and a low back beam process is used, so that the lines are clear;
medium tension, wherein the machine tension is 185kg, and the tension is controlled to be about 90 percent of that of the plain weave fabric by using medium machine tension;
(4) desizing: desizing is not needed;
and rinsing and distressing:
the fabric adopts a chlorine bleaching process, sodium hypochlorite destroys a coating dyed on warp yarns and damages yellow pigments on the surfaces of weft yarns and cotton yarns, so that the surface color of the fabric becomes old and white, and the key points are as follows: (1) controlling the pH value to be 7-8; (2) controlling the concentration of sodium hypochlorite and the effective chlorine at 0.5-0.8%, which is changed along with the bath ratio; (3) the bleaching temperature is controlled at 15-20 deg.C, and the bleaching time is 20-30 min.
2. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the raw material specification is as follows: the warp is 32S/2 all-cotton double-strand blank line; the weft yarn is 32S +40D cotton ammonia core-spun yarn and cotton blank.
3. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: pre-baking: because the low-temperature self-crosslinking adhesive is adopted, the drying is needed, and the drying temperature is as follows: 100-105 ℃, and the drying time is as follows: 8-12 min.
4. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the upper beam: the dried cotton threads are uniformly and parallelly wound on a warp beam through a leasing piece, and then wound on a movable warp beam in an inverted mode to be directly woven; the reverse shaft speed is 30-35m/min, and the reverse shaft tension is 200-300N.
5. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: baking and shaping: the baking temperature is as follows: 160-165 ℃; the time is as follows: 2-3 min.
6. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: twist of yarn: the twist multiplier of the warp yarns is 370 and the twist multiplier of the weft yarns is 340.
7. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the drafting process comprises the following steps: the drafting sequence of the edge yarn is 1, 1, 3 and 3; the drafting method of the ground warp yarns is a mountain-shaped drafting method, and the specific sequence is as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 14 yarns in one drafting cycle, 2 in each reed, and the fabric weave is a warp mountain twill.
8. The short-process processing method of the distressed and linen-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: and (3) a machining process: the width of a finished product of the fabric is 145cm, the warp density of the finished product is 276/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 198/10 cm, the width of the damaged fabric is 158.5cm, the warp density of the gray fabric is 253/10 cm, the weft density of the gray fabric is 198/10 cm, the number of reed wires on the loom is 122 teeth/10 cm, the total number of warp yarns is 3474, 48 edge yarns are arranged, the number of drafting cycles is 14, and the whole width is 309 cycles.
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