CN111118699B - Preparation method of denim fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of denim fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111118699B CN111118699B CN201911386328.0A CN201911386328A CN111118699B CN 111118699 B CN111118699 B CN 111118699B CN 201911386328 A CN201911386328 A CN 201911386328A CN 111118699 B CN111118699 B CN 111118699B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D10/00—Physical treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture, i.e. during a continuous production process before the filaments have been collected
- D01D10/02—Heat treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F1/00—General methods for the manufacture of artificial filaments or the like
- D01F1/02—Addition of substances to the spinning solution or to the melt
- D01F1/10—Other agents for modifying properties
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
- D01F6/92—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of denim fabric, which adopts cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber as raw materials; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water; the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is prepared by extruding a PET melt dispersed with 0.5-1 wt% of zinc oxide from trilobal spinneret orifices with different trilobal widths on a spinneret plate (all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the widest leaf is randomly distributed in a pointing direction), cooling by using circular blowing air, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) filaments according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment. According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the raw materials do not contain spandex, the defects that the jean fabric in the prior art is seriously degraded after heat treatment and poor in size stability after washing due to the presence of the spandex are overcome, and the prepared fabric is excellent in elasticity, has an excellent ultraviolet-proof function and expands the application field of the jean fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a preparation method of denim fabric.
Background
Denim is thick yarn-dyed warp-faced twill, the warp yarn is dark, generally indigo, and the weft yarn is light, generally light grey or boiled natural white yarn. The denim is formed by interweaving pure cotton indigo dyed warp yarns and natural weft yarns by adopting a right twill weave with three over one under, and can be generally divided into three types, namely light type, medium type and heavy type. The jean is suitable for jeans for men and women, jeans waistcoats, jeans and the like.
In order to improve elasticity of the denim fabric in the prior art, a certain amount of spandex is usually added for blending, but the existence of the spandex also brings some serious problems to the fabric: poor heat resistance, severe degradation after heat treatment, chlorine intolerance, water intolerance, poor dimensional stability after water washing, and the like.
Therefore, the research on the preparation method of the spandex-free jean fabric is of great significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention discloses a preparation method of jean fabric, and aims to solve the problems that in the prior art, the jean fabric is poor in heat resistance, chlorine resistance and size stability after washing due to the fact that spandex is contained.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following scheme:
a preparation method of jean fabric comprises the following steps of preparing cotton, terylene (common terylene) and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber; the process flow is as follows: weaving (the fabric has twill weave) → presetting (namely, the fabric is subjected to setting treatment for 30-50 seconds at the temperature of 190-200 ℃) → pre-treatment (namely, the fabric is immersed into a solution containing 0.5-2 g/L of penetrant, 1-3 g/L of caustic soda and 1-3 g/L of hydrogen peroxide and treated for 20-40 minutes at the temperature of 95-100 ℃), then oxygen removal and over-acid treatment are carried out) → dyeing (namely, active group indigo dye, salt and alkali are added into the fabric, dyeing is carried out for 40-50 minutes at the temperature of 50-70 ℃)/>, and post-treatment (namely, the fabric is soaped for 10-30 minutes at the temperature of 50-70 ℃ by using soaping agent with the concentration of 0.5-2 g/L, and repeated twice) → post-setting (namely, the fabric is immersed into soft oil with the concentration of 40-60 g/L, and then heat setting is carried out at the temperature of 150-170 ℃), wherein the step of (1) adding yeast powder to 5g → water into the fabric L and kansui oil of 0.5-2 g/L, and treating for 10-20 minutes at 40-60 ℃; (2) washing with clear water for 2-4 minutes; (3) drying after dehydration; (4) adding aqueous solution of 8-15 g/L potassium permanganate and 5-15 g/L phosphoric acid to spray horse monkey; (5) adding 3-8 g/L of sodium metabisulfite and 0.1-0.5 g/L of washing powder, and stirring and washing for 3-10 minutes at 30-50 ℃; (6) washing with clear water for 2-4 minutes; (7) adding 0.5-2 g/L of soft oil and 0.1-1 g/L of silicone oil for treatment for 10-30 minutes; (8) taking out of the jar, dehydrating, drying, and then blowing cold air to dry. ) (ii) a
The preparation process of the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding a PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) filaments according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
0.5-1 wt% of zinc oxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.0-1.4: 1.5-2.5, the three leaves are the same in length, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the directions of the widest leaves are randomly distributed;
namely, a plurality of trilobal spinneret orifices are arranged on the spinneret plate, each trilobal spinneret orifice comprises a leaf I, a leaf II and a leaf III, the leaf I in different trilobal spinneret orifices is the shortest leaf in the three leaves, and the leaf III is the widest leaf in the three leaves; the width ratio of the leaves I, the leaves II and the leaves III in the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.0-1.4: 1.5-2.5, the lengths of the leaves I, the leaves II and the leaves III in the same trilobal spinneret orifice are the same, and the length-width ratio of the leaves I in the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 2.5-3.5: 1; in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and II is 120 degrees, the included angle between the central lines of the blades II and III is 120 degrees, and the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and III is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the orientation of the lobes III of all trilobal orifices is randomly distributed.
The principle of the invention is as follows:
one of the raw materials of the denim fabric is anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, so that the denim fabric has an anti-ultraviolet radiation function; the anti-ultraviolet polyester fiber is FDY (fully drawn yarn) with a trilobal cross section and unequal trefoil widths, PET (polyethylene terephthalate) melt dispersed with zinc oxide is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices with unequal trefoil widths on the same spinneret plate, the direction of the widest leaf is randomly distributed, and meanwhile, circular blowing is adopted for cooling, the cooling conditions of the trilobal are seriously asymmetric and unbalanced, so that after the fiber is sprayed out, the cooling speeds of the melts at different positions on the cross section are inconsistent, and the main body is as follows: during spinning, the cooling air speed is high and is between 1.80 and 2.30m/s, the part close to the air blowing port is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing port is cooled slower. When one of the trilobes in the trilobe spinneret orifice is facing the cooling wind, the melt of that lobe cools faster, while the rest of the trilobe cools slower. Under the tension of drawing, other parts in the trilobal shape are more easily drawn to be thin and have more concentrated stress, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can be formed on a fiber trefoil cross section, the fiber with asymmetric stress on the cross section can show three-dimensional curling performance in the heat treatment or drawing process, the curling is good, and the elastic recovery rate is high.
The denim fabric of the invention does not contain spandex, thus overcoming the defects of serious degradation after heat treatment and poor dimensional stability after water washing of the denim fabric in the prior art due to the existence of spandex.
As a preferred technical scheme:
according to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the intrinsic viscosity of the PET melt is 0.60-0.65 dL/g.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280-285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the one-roller speed is 1800-2000 m/min, the one-roller temperature is 85-95 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3100-3300 m/min, the two-roller temperature is 150-170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3030-3210 m/min.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃, and the time is 20-30 min.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the breaking strength of the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber is more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 55.0 +/-5.0%, and the filament number is 1.0-1.5 dtex.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber has the crimping shrinkage rate of 21-24%, the crimping stability of 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation of 67-75% and the crimp elastic recovery of 75-80%.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 40-50: 20-30: 40-50.
According to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the gram weight of the jean fabric is 203-330 g/m2The weft elongation recovery rate after 10 times of washing is 99-100% (refer to a standard FZT01034-2008 & lttest method for tensile elasticity of textile fabrics), and the weft quick rebound recovery angle after 10 times of washing is 112-119 ° (refer to GBT3819-1997 & ltmethod for measuring recovery angle of crease recovery of textile fabrics & lt & gt).
Has the advantages that:
(1) the jean fabric is prepared by weaving cotton, terylene and ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fibers and finishing, and the raw materials do not contain spandex, so that the defects of serious degradation after heat treatment and poor size stability after washing caused by the existence of the spandex in the prior art are overcome;
(2) according to the preparation method of the jean fabric, the prepared fabric is excellent in elasticity and has an excellent ultraviolet-proof function, and the application field of the fabric is expanded.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the distribution of trilobal orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The crimp shrinkage and crimp stability of the invention are obtained by testing the tow in GB6506-2001 synthetic fiber textured yarn crimp performance test method;
the method for testing the shrinkage elongation (reflecting the elasticity and the crimp degree of the deformed filament, the fiber is firstly loaded under light load and then loaded under heavy load, and the ratio of the length difference value under the two loads to the crimp length) and the crimp elastic recovery rate is as follows:
firstly, cutting two fiber samples with the length of about 50cm, putting the two fiber samples into hot water with the temperature of 100 ℃ for treatment for 30min, taking out the two fiber samples, naturally drying the two fiber samples, then cutting the sample with the length of about 30cm, fixing one end of the sample, loading a load of 0.0018cN/dtex on the other end of the sample, continuing for 30s, marking the sample at the position of 20cm, and obtaining the initial length l of the sample1(ii) a Then, the load of 0.09cN/dtex is loaded for 30s, and the position of the mark point is measured, namely the length l when the sample is loaded with heavy load2(ii) a Finally, removing the heavy load, retracting the sample for 2min without load, then adding the load of 0.0018cN/dtex, continuing for 30s, and measuring the position of the mark point on the scale, namely the recovery length l3(ii) a The percent elongation at Compression (CE) and the elastic recovery from crimp (SR) are calculated as follows:
CE＝(l2-l1)/l1；
SR＝(l2-l3)/(l2-l1)。
the trilobal spinneret orifices and the distribution thereof on the spinneret plate are shown in the attached figures 1-2, the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.0-1.4: 1.5-2.5, the three leaves have the same length, the ratio of the length to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the directions of widest lobes are randomly distributed. The drawings are only schematic and should not be construed as limiting the invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.5 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.6dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of the three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:1.5, the length of the three leaves is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 30 degrees, 75 degrees, 15 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 40 degrees, 90 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 100 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2m/s, the speed of one roller is 1800m/min, the temperature of one roller is 1800 ℃, the speed of two rollers is 3100m/min, the temperature of two rollers is 150 ℃, and the winding speed is 3030 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90 ℃ and the time is 30 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 55%, the single filament number is 1.0dtex, the crimp shrinkage is 21%, the crimp stability is 78%, the shrinkage elongation is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton, the terylene and the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 40:20: 40; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 203g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 99%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 112 °.
Example 2
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.9 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.62dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of the three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.4:2.5, the length of the three leaves is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 12 degrees, 45 degrees, 32 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 4 degrees, 88 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 100 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 67 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.3m/s, the first roller speed is 1843m/min, the first roller temperature is 1843 ℃, the second roller speed is 3109m/min, the second roller temperature is 150 ℃, and the winding speed is 3052 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 92 ℃ and the time is 30 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 52.4%, the single filament number is 1.2dtex, the crimp shrinkage is 21%, the crimp stability is 78%, the shrinkage elongation is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 40:20: 45; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 269g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 99.2%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 112 °.
Example 3
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.5 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.62dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.2:1.8, the length of the three blades is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest blade to the width of the narrowest blade is 2.7:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent blades is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices form certain included angles with the datum line, and the included angles of inferior angles are 2 degrees, 100 degrees, 106 degrees, 30 degrees, 75 degrees, 15 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 40 degrees, 90 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 40 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.3m/s, the first roller speed is 1848m/min, the first roller temperature is 1848 ℃, the second roller speed is 3143m/min, the second roller temperature is 150 ℃, and the winding speed is 3061 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 94 ℃, and the time is 27 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 52.2%, the single filament number is 1.4dtex, the crimp shrinkage is 21%, the crimp stability is 78%, the shrinkage elongation is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton, the terylene and the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 50:20: 40; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 273g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 99.2%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 112 °.
Example 4
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.7 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.63dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of the three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.5:2.0, the three leaves have the same length, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.7:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 18, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a reference line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the reference line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 30 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 177 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the first roller speed is 1884m/min, the first roller temperature is 1884 ℃, the second roller speed is 3158m/min, the second roller temperature is 162 ℃, and the winding speed is 3070 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 99 ℃, and the time is 27 min;
the prepared ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 2.8cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 51.7%, the single filament number is 1.2dtex, the crimp shrinkage rate is 21%, the crimp stability is 79%, the shrinkage elongation is 71%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 50:20: 50; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 271g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing was 99.2%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing was 113 °.
Example 5
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.8 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.61dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.4:2.3, the length of the three leaves is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.9:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 12 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the inferior angle included angles are 3 degrees, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the first roller speed is 1921m/min, the first roller temperature is 1921 ℃, the second roller speed is 3225m/min, the second roller temperature is 162 ℃, and the winding speed is 3112 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 112 ℃, and the time is 25 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 2.9cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50.5%, the single filament number is 1.5dtex, the crimp shrinkage rate is 22%, the crimp stability is 80%, the shrinkage elongation is 75%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 76%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton, the terylene and the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 40:20: 40; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 312g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing was 99.6%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing was 115 °.
Example 6
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.5 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.1:2.3, the length of the three leaves is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 2.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 30 degrees, 75 degrees, 15 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 40 degrees, 90 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 10 degrees, 130 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 125 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction; the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 283 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8m/s, the first roller speed is 1944m/min, the first roller temperature is 1944 ℃, the second roller speed is 3238m/min, the second roller temperature is 166 ℃, and the winding speed is 3112 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 115 ℃, and the time is 21 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50.5%, the single filament number is 1.3dtex, the crimp shrinkage rate is 22%, the crimp stability is 80%, the shrinkage elongation is 75%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 77%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 40:20: 45; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 291g/m2The recovery rate of weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 99.8%, and the recovery angle of weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 115 °.
Example 7
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 0.6 wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.62dL/g from trefoil spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of three blades of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.1:1.9, the length of the three blades is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest blade to the width of the narrowest blade is 2.7:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent blades is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 30 degrees, 172 degrees, 115 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 40 degrees, 90 degrees, 1 degree, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 15 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 100 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 284 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.2m/s, the first roller speed is 1969m/min, the first roller temperature is 1969 ℃, the second roller speed is 3252m/min, the second roller temperature is 168 ℃, and the winding speed is 3137 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 117 ℃, and the time is 20 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50.1%, the single filament number is 1.1dtex, the crimp shrinkage is 23%, the crimp stability is 81%, the shrinkage elongation is 75%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 79%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton, the terylene and the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 50:20: 40; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 242g/m2The recovery rate of the weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 100%, and the recovery angle of the weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 117 °.
Example 8
A preparation method of denim fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber:
extruding a PET melt which is dispersed with 1wt% of zinc oxide and has the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.4:2.3, the length of the three leaves is the same, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width of the narrowest leaf is 3.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the central axis of the widest leaf of one trilobal spinneret orifice is taken as a datum line, the central axes of the widest leaves of all other trilobal spinneret orifices and the datum line form a certain included angle, and the included angles of inferior angles are 90 degrees, 1 degree, 15 degrees, 22 degrees, 3 degrees, 170 degrees, 40 degrees, 45 degrees, 30 degrees, 10 degrees, 60 degrees, 2 degrees, 30 degrees, 75 degrees, 100 degrees, 106 degrees, 100 degrees, 41 degrees, 80 degrees, 65 degrees, 2 degrees and 50 degrees in sequence along the clockwise direction; the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.1m/s, the one-roller speed is 2000m/min, the one-roller temperature is 2000 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3300m/min, the two-roller temperature is 170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3210 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 120 ℃, and the time is 20 min;
the prepared anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 50%, the single filament number is 1.5dtex, the crimp shrinkage is 24%, the crimp stability is 82%, the shrinkage elongation is 75%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 80%;
(2) preparing the denim fabric:
the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber, and the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber is 50:20: 50; the process flow is changed into: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the gram weight of the prepared jean fabric is 330g/m2The recovery rate of the weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 100%, and the recovery angle of the weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 119 °.
Claims (5)
1. A preparation method of denim fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the raw materials are cotton, terylene and anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber; the process flow is as follows: weaving → pre-setting → pre-processing → dyeing → post-processing → post-finishing setting → washing water;
the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape;
the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber has the crimping shrinkage rate of 21-24%, the crimping stability of 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation of 67-75% and the crimping elastic recovery rate of 75-80%;
the preparation process of the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding a PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) filaments according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare the anti-ultraviolet polyester elastic fiber;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280-285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the one-roller speed is 1800-2000 m/min, the one-roller temperature is 85-95 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3100-3300 m/min, the two-roller temperature is 150-170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3030-3210 m/min;
0.5-1 wt% of zinc oxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the width ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.0-1.4: 1.5-2.5, the three leaves are the same in length, the ratio of the length of the narrowest leaf to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the directions of the widest leaves are randomly distributed;
the gram weight of the jean fabric is 203-330 g/m2The recovery rate of the weft elongation after 10 times of washing is 99-100%, and the recovery angle of the weft quick rebound after 10 times of washing is 112-119%.
2. The method for preparing a jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of the PET melt is 0.60-0.65 dL/g.
3. The method for preparing denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃ and the time is 20-30 min.
4. The method for preparing denim fabric according to claim 3, wherein the breaking strength of the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber is more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 55.0 +/-5.0%, and the filament number is 1.0-1.5 dtex.
5. The preparation method of the denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the cotton to the terylene to the ultraviolet-proof polyester elastic fiber is 40-50: 20-30: 40-50.
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