CN111107908B - Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds - Google Patents

Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds Download PDF

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CN111107908B
CN111107908B CN201880063640.3A CN201880063640A CN111107908B CN 111107908 B CN111107908 B CN 111107908B CN 201880063640 A CN201880063640 A CN 201880063640A CN 111107908 B CN111107908 B CN 111107908B
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CN111107908A (en
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山田幸宜
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/556—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/524—Preservatives

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  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphoric acid-based compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the composition is 0.1 wt% or more relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention may provide a composition comprising one or more ellagic acid compounds having improved stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.

Description

Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, preferably for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least one ellagic acid compound.
Background
Compositions, such as cosmetic or dermatological products, comprising one or more ellagic acid compounds are problematic in terms of discoloration over time. To date, in order to solve this problem, a method of encapsulating an ellagic acid compound has been proposed (see JP-a-2005-2012).
However, it is not easy to encapsulate ellagic acid and/or a salt thereof.
Disclosure of Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition comprising one or more ellagic acid compounds having an improved stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
The above object may be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) At least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) At least one phosphoric acid-based compound;
(c) At least one metal oxide; and
(d) The amount of water is controlled by the amount of water,
wherein the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition may be 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound may be selected from the group consisting of:
(1) A compound having the formula (XIV):
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
wherein R is 1 、R 2 And R 3 Which may be the same or different, are selected from: a group OM, wherein M represents an alkali metal; group OR 4 Wherein R is 4 Denotes straight-chain, branched, cyclic or aromatic C 5 -C 40 An alkyl group; an OH group; and oxyethylene group (OCH) 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CHCH 3 ) m OR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom OR a linear OR branched C 1 -C 20 Alkyl, and n and m are integers, wherein n is in the range of 1 to 50 and m is in the range of 0 to 50,
(2) Glycerophospholipids, and
(3) Mixtures thereof.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound may be selected from the group consisting of: triolein phosphate, tri-C 12-15 These compounds may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyether-10 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetyl polyether-10 phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound may be selected from the group consisting of: phosphoric acid monoesters of alkoxylated fatty alcohols containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms, having 1 to 50 moles of an alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; and dialkyl phosphate esters of non-alkoxylated alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound may be selected from the group consisting of: a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleyl polyether-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
(b) The phosphate compound may be selected from glycerophospholipids represented by the general formula (XV):
Figure 972424DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
wherein
R 1 And R 2 Independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched, fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
x represents a compound having the formula R 3 R 4 R 5 N + -CH(R 6 )-CH 2 A substituent of (A) wherein R is 3 、R 4 、R 5 And R 6 Independently of one another, represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function.
The amount of (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound in the composition may be 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(c) The metal oxide may be selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof.
(c) The metal oxide may be uncoated.
(c) The metal oxide may preferably be present in the coating of the substrate in the form of particles.
The amount of (c) the metal oxide in the composition may be 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (d) water in the composition may be 50 to 90 wt%, preferably 60 to 85 wt%, and more preferably 70 to 80 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a method of preventing or reducing discoloration of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, the method comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
The invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one phosphoric acid based compound for preventing or reducing the discoloration of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
Best Mode for Carrying Out The Invention
After diligent research, the present inventors have found that it is possible to provide a composition comprising one or more ellagic acid compounds that has improved stability such that the color of the composition does not substantially change over time.
Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises:
(a) At least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) At least one phosphoric acid compound;
(c) At least one metal oxide; and
(d) The amount of water is controlled by the amount of water,
wherein the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is stable such that its color does not substantially change, preferably does not change, in particular in terms of yellow or brown (brown). Thus, the composition according to the invention does not provide a negative impression to the consumer.
In addition, the composition according to the invention can keep the ellagic acid compounds active, since the unchanged color of the composition means that the ellagic acid compounds can maintain their original form and do not react with any substance.
Since ellagic acid compounds can act as whitening agents, the composition according to the present invention can be preferably used for whitening keratin materials such as skin.
The compositions, methods, uses, and the like according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner hereinafter.
[ composition ]
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound; (b) at least one phosphoric acid-based compound; (c) at least one metal oxide; and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the composition is 0.1 wt% or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, and even more preferably a cosmetic care composition for keratin materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic or dermatological product for whitening keratin materials such as the skin.
The above-mentioned components (a) to (d) and other features of the composition according to the invention will be explained below.
(ellagic acid compound)
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one ellagic acid compound. Two or more ellagic acid compounds can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of ellagic acid compound or a combination of different types of ellagic acid compounds can be used.
(a) Ellagic acid compounds encompass ellagic acid and its salts, metal complexes thereof, monoethers or polyethers, mono-or polyacylated derivatives thereof, and carbonate or carbamate derivatives thereof derived from hydroxyl groups.
It may be preferable that (a) the ellagic acid compound may form a chelate ring with an ion such as a metal ion or a different ellagic acid compound.
Ellagic acid is represented by the following chemical formula. Ellagic acid can be obtained, for example, from Minasolve (product name: minacare Elage).
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
The salt of ellagic acid may in particular comprise: metal salts, especially alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts; amine salts, such as salts of methyl glutamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, choline, or bis (triethylamine); salts of amino acids, especially salts of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and ornithine.
The metal complex of ellagic acid may in particular comprise metal complexes with zinc and copper.
The monoether or polyether derivatives of ellagic acid may in particular comprise alkoxy derivatives having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or condensed derivatives of one or more hydroxyl groups of ellagic acid with a sugar or sugar chain. In particular, it is a monoether or polyether derivative of 3-methoxyellagic acid or with a sugar such as glucose, arabinose, rhamnose and galactose.
The mono-or polyacylated derivatives of ellagic acid may in particular comprise saturated or unsaturated acyl groups having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, these acyl groups correspond to acetic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, stearic acid, brassidic acid, erucic acid, behenic acid and (all-Z) -5,8,11,14, 17-eicosapentaenoic acid.
The above ether or acylated derivatives can be obtained by methods of etherification or acylation of polyphenols which are well known to those skilled in the art. Some may also be obtained by extraction from plants.
(a) The ellagic acid compound can be represented by the following chemical formula:
Figure 420723DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
wherein
R 1 To R 4 Each of which independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an alkoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene group, or a saccharide represented by the formula:
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE005
and is and
R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkoxy group.
As the above alkyl group, there may be mentioned C 1-20 Alkyl, preferably C 1-10 Alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl. The alkyl group may be substituted with a halogen group such as a fluorine atom or a hydroxyl group.
As the above alkoxy group, there may be mentioned C 1-20 Alkoxy, preferably C 1-6 Alkoxy groups such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy. The alkoxy group may be substituted with a halogen group such as a fluorine atom or a hydroxyl group.
It is not essential for the composition according to the invention to include any encapsulate (capsule) or the like in order to encapsulate (a) the ellagic acid compound.
The amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the invention is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition can be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the invention is 0.5% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the invention is 0.7% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the invention may be in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.3 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition according to the invention is from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(phosphoric acid-series Compound)
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one phosphoric acid-based compound. Two or more (b) phosphoric acid-based compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of phosphate compound or a combination of different types of phosphate compounds may be used.
The term "phosphate-based compound" herein means a compound having at least one phosphate-based group.
The "phosphoric acid-based compound" may have at least one phosphoric acid group, particularly one phosphoric acid group.
The phosphoric acid based compound may be selected from organic phosphates, inorganic phosphates and mixtures thereof.
It may be preferred that the inorganic phosphate is selected from inorganic salts of phosphoric acid, such as metal or ammonium salts of phosphoric acid.
It may be more preferred that the inorganic phosphate is in the form of a metal salt. The metal salt may be an alkali metal salt. The alkali metal salt may be selected from alkali metal salts of phosphoric acid, such as sodium dihydrogen phosphate, disodium hydrogen phosphate or trisodium phosphate, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate or tripotassium phosphate. Dipotassium hydrogen phosphate may be even more preferred.
It may also be preferred that the organophosphate is selected from esters of phosphoric acid, such as mono-, di-or tri-organophosphates.
According to one embodiment, (b) the phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of:
(1) A compound having the formula (XIV):
Figure 731618DEST_PATH_IMAGE006
wherein R is 1 、R 2 And R 3 Which may be the same or different, are selected from:
a group OM, wherein M represents an alkali metal such as Na, li or K, preferably Na or K,
group OR 4 Wherein R is 4 Denotes straight-chain, branched, cyclic or aromatic C 5 -C 40 Alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 20 Alkyl, and more preferably C 16 Or C 18 An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,
OH groups, and
oxyethylene group (OCH) 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CHCH 3 ) m OR, wherein R represents a hydrogen atom OR a linear OR branched C 1 -C 20 Alkyl radicals, e.g. C 5 -C 18 And C 12 -C 15 Alkyl, and n and m are integers, wherein n is in the range of 1 to 50 or equal to 10, and m is in the range of 0 to 50 or equal to 0,
(2) Glycerophospholipids, and
(3) Mixtures thereof.
In the above formula (XIV), R is preferable 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one of which is a group-OM, and R 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one of which is a group-OR 4 Or- (OCH) 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR, wherein n and m are as defined above.
Also preferred is the above formula (XIV), R 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one of which is a group-OM, R 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one of which is a group-OH, and R 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one of which is a group-OR 4 Or- (OCH) 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR, wherein n and m are as defined above.
Also preferred is the case where in the above formula (XIV), R 1 、R 2 And R 3 One of them is a group-OM, R 1 、R 2 And R 3 One of them is a group-OH, and R 1 、R 2 And R 3 One of them being a group-OR 4 Or- (OCH) 2 CH 2 ) n (OCH 2 CH(CH 3 )) m OR, wherein n and m are as defined above.
Preference is also given to the radicals R in the above formula (XIV) 1 、R 2 And R 3 At least one OR both OR even all of them containing a group-OR 4 Wherein R is 4 Represents a straight chain or branched C 10 -C 30 In particular C 15 -C 20 Or even C 16 Or C 18 An alkyl group. In this case, R 1 、R 2 And R 3 May be the same or different.
As non-limiting examples of such compounds having formula (XIV) mention may be made of, for example, triolein phosphate, such as Nikkol TDP sold by Nikko Chemicals; ethers of phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol and C 12 -C 15 Mixture of triesters of fatty alcohols (about 10 EO) (INCI name: tri-C) 12-15 Alkanol polyether-10 phosphate esters), such as Nikkol TDP-10 sold by Nikko Chemicals; potassium cetyl phosphate, such as amphsol K sold by DSM Nutritional Products, or Arlatone MAP 160K from Uniqema; and ceteth-10 phosphate, such as Protaphos CET-10 from Protameen Chemicals.
The phosphoric acid-based compound (b) preferably has a function of a surfactant. Thus, (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound may be a phosphoric acid ester-based surfactant.
(b) The phosphate compound may be selected from the group consisting of: phosphoric acid monoesters of alkoxylated fatty alcohols containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms, having 1 to 50 moles of an alkylene oxide selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; and dialkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof. The alkyl portion of the fatty alcohol or non-alkoxylated alcohol may be a linear or branched or saturated or unsaturated alkyl group.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound may be selected from the group consisting of: a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and a combination of oleyl polyether-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
As a product comprising a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS CES, sold by Croda, USA. As a product comprising a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of Crodafos CS-20 ACID, sold by Croda, USA. As a product comprising a combination of oleyl polyether-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS HCE, sold by Croda, USA.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glycerophospholipid" is intended to mean an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a phosphoric acid substituted by a compound chosen from alcohols bearing an amine function, in particular β -amino alcohols. The beta-amino alcohol may be selected from, for example, choline, ethanolamine, and/or serine.
Glycerophospholipids may be defined according to the following general formula (XV):
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE007
wherein:
R 1 and R 2 Independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched, fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amine functions, and
x represents a compound having the formula R 3 R 4 R 5 N + -CH(R 6 )-CH 2 A substituent of (A) wherein R is 3 、R 4 、R 5 And R 6 Independently of one another, represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and/or a carboxyl function. X may be chosen in particular from choline, serine and ethanolamine.
According to one embodiment, R 1 And R 2 Advantageously independently of one another, from butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric, decenoic, lauric, myristic, myristoleic acid,Palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.
The glycerophospholipids may also be mixtures of compounds having the general formula (XV).
Glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may for example comprise phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and/or phosphatidylserine.
According to one embodiment, the glycerophospholipid may comprise an ester of glycerol, unsaturated fatty acid, phosphoric acid and choline, also known as Phosphatidylcholine (PC).
Glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may be derived from lecithin. Lecithin may comprise primarily phosphatidylcholine as glycerophospholipid.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention may be of "natural" or "synthetic" origin.
"native" PC may be obtained by extraction from animal or plant sources such as soybean, sunflower or egg. For example, non-hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, naturally obtained from soybean, typically contains palmitic, stearic, palmitoleic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic acids and optionally C as the glycerinated fatty acids 20 -C 22 A fatty acid.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic phosphatidylcholine" is intended to mean a phosphatidylcholine comprising at least one fatty acid different from those which may be present in natural PC.
The term "synthetic PC" is also intended to mean natural PC that has undergone modification, such as partial hydrogenation, i.e. maintenance of only a portion of the double bonds present in the unsaturated fatty acids.
Among the sources of more or less purified phosphatidylcholine suitable for use in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, mention may be made of Emulmetik 930 sold by the company Lucas Meyer.
Glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of lecithin. The lecithin is generally obtained by extracting lipids from vegetable or animal fats using a non-polar solvent. The lipid fraction typically comprises predominantly glycerophospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine or phosphatidylethanolamine.
The lecithin suitable for use in the present invention may be lecithin derived from soy, sunflower or egg and/or mixtures thereof.
Lecithin is usually provided in a form dissolved in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in a powder or cake form.
They are typically mixtures of lecithins, wherein the glycerophospholipid content of the products sold as such is generally in the range of about at least 15% to about at least 95%.
In an exemplary embodiment, the lecithin used as a starting material for the preparation of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45 wt.%, such as at least 65 wt.%, such as at least 75 wt.%, such as at least 85 wt.% or such as at least 95 wt.% of glycerophospholipids, relative to the total weight of lecithin.
Among the lecithins which may be suitable for use in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold by American Lecithin under the reference names Natermann Phospholipid, phospholipon 80 and Phomale 75 @, and those sold by Lucas Meyer under the reference names Epikuron 145V, topcithin 300, emulmetik 930 and Ovothin 200.
The glycerophospholipids may be non-hydrogenated glycerophospholipids, i.e. esters obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one unsaturated fatty acid and a phosphoric acid substituted by a compound selected from alcohols bearing an amine function, in particular β -amino alcohols.
The terms "unsaturated" and "unsaturation" are intended to mean that there is at least one or even several double or triple bonds between two carbon atoms.
The glycerophospholipid may be phosphatidylcholine or lecithin.
(b) The phosphoric acid compound is selected from triolein phosphate, ethers of phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol and C 12 -C 15 Mixtures of triesters of fatty alcohols (about 10 EO), potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, cetyl phosphate and lecithin, and mixtures thereof.
(b) Phosphoric acid compoundThe substance may be a nonionic surfactant such as triolein phosphate, or ethers of phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol and C 12 -C 15 A mixture of triesters of fatty alcohols (about 10 EO).
The amount of (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.05 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (b) the phosphoric acid based compound in the composition according to the invention is 0.5 wt% or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (b) the phosphoric acid based compound in the composition according to the invention is 3 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (b) phosphoric acid based compound in the composition according to the invention may be in the range of 0.01 to 20 wt. -%, preferably in the range of 0.05 to 10 wt. -%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (b) the phosphoric acid based compound in the composition according to the invention is 0.5 to 3 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Metal oxide)
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one metal oxide. Two or more kinds of (c) metal oxides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of metal oxide or a combination of different types of metal oxides may be used.
(c) The metal oxide may be selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and mixtures thereof. The titanium oxide is preferably titanium dioxide. Titanium oxide may be amorphous or crystallized in the rutile and/or anatase form.
Preferably (c) the metal oxide is in the form of particles, in particular pigments, and more preferably nanopigments. (c) The particle size (such as volume average particle size or weight average particle size) of the particles of the metal oxide may be 1 nm to 100 μm, preferably 5 nm to 50 μm, and more preferably 10 nm to 30 μm.
(c) The metal oxide may or may not be coated.
The coated metal oxide may be a treated nanopigment that has been subjected to one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries,1990, 2 months, volume 105, pages 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminium) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicone, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silica, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.
The treated nanopigment may be a coated titanium oxide, such as titanium oxide treated with:
silica and alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from Tayca, and the products "Tioveil Fin", "Tioveil OPERATIONS MANAGER", "Tioveil MOTG" and "Tioveil IPM" from Tioxide,
aluminum oxide and stearate, such as the product "titanium Dioxide MT 100T" from Tayca,
alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product "microcrystalline Dioxide MT 100S" from Tayca corporation,
iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100F" from Tayca,
silica, alumina and silicones, such as the products "titanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS", "titanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS" and "titanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" from Tayca,
sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150W" from Tayca,
octyltrimethoxysilane, such as the product "T-805" from Degussa,
alumina and stearic acid, such as the product "UVT-M160" from Kemira corporation,
alumina and glycerol, such as the product "UVT-M212" from Kemira, and
alumina and silicone, such as the product "UVT-M262" from Kemira corporation.
The treated zinc oxide can be, for example, those sold under the name "Z-COTE HP 1" by the company Sunsmart.
Preferably (c) the metal oxide is uncoated.
The uncoated metal oxide may be untreated titanium oxide such as those sold by Tayca under the trade name "titanium Dioxide MT 500B" or "titanium Dioxide MT 600B".
The uncoated metal Oxide can be untreated Zinc Oxide, such as those sold under the name "Ultra Fine Oxide Powder" by Sumitomo corporation, under the name "Finex 25" by Presperse corporation, under the name "MZO-25" by Ikeda corporation, or under the name "Z-COTE" by sunmark corporation.
(c) The metal oxide may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention as such or in the form of ase:Sub>A pigment-containing paste (i.e. mixed with ase:Sub>A dispersant, as described, for example, in document GB-ase:Sub>A-2,206,339).
(c) The metal oxide may be present in the coating(s) of the substrate, preferably particles, in particular pigments and more preferably pearlescent pigments. For example, (c) the metal oxide may be present in the coating(s) of pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium oxide-coated glass particles. The coating may not be further coated and may therefore be exposed to the environment.
Therefore, pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica and titanium oxide-coated glass particles can be used as the (c) metal oxide in the present invention.
Preferably, particulate titanium dioxide particles or mica (and) titanium oxide are used as (c) the metal oxide.
The amount of (c) the metal oxide in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (c) metal oxide in the composition according to the invention is 1.5 wt. -% or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of (c) the metal oxide in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (c) metal oxide in the composition according to the invention is 5 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (c) metal oxide in the composition according to the invention may be in the range of 0.1 to 30 wt. -%, preferably in the range of 0.5 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 10 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (c) metal oxide in the composition according to the invention is from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Water)
The composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.
The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50 wt% or more, preferably 60 wt% or more, and more preferably 70 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention is 72 wt. -% or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
On the other hand, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention is 78 wt. -% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention may be from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention is from 72 to 78 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(nonionic surfactant)
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of nonionic surfactants can be used.
Nonionic Surfactants are compounds which are known per se (see, for example, M.R. Porter, "Handbook of Surfactants", blackie&Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may for example be selected from alcohols, α -diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, which are ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and have at least one fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be in the range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups to be in the range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Mention may also be made, without limitation, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides containing, for example, 1.5 to 5, such as 1.5 to 4, glyceryl groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C) 6 -C 24 ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of alkylpolyglycosides; n- (C) 6 -C 24 ) An alkylglucamine derivative; amine oxides, such as (C) 10 -C 14 ) Alkyl amine oxides or N- (C) 10 -C 14 ) Amido propyl morpholine oxide; a silicone surfactant; and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic surfactant may preferably be selected from mono-oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylenated, mono-glycerated or polyglycerated nonionic surfactants. The alkylene oxide units are more particularly ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units or combinations thereof, and are preferably ethylene oxide units.
Examples of mono-or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
(C) mono-or polyoxyalkylenated 8 -C 24 ) An alkyl phenol, a phenol derivative,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono-or polyoxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 The alcohol is added into the mixture of the alcohol,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono-or polyoxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 The acid amide,
saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 8 -C 30 Esters of an acid and a polyalkylene glycol,
saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C 8 -C 30 Mono-or polyoxyalkylene esters of acids and sorbitol,
saturated or unsaturated, mono-or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
in particular condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, alone or as mixtures.
The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids).
Polyoxyethylated saturated fatty alcohols (or C) may be mentioned 8 -C 30 Alcohols) include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 ethylene oxide units (laureth-10 to laureth-12 as CTFA name); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 ethylene oxide units (beheneth-9 to beheneth-50 as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetearyl and stearyl alcohols), especially those containing from 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units (ceteareth-10 to cetearyl alcohol as the CTFA nameSteareth-50); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units (ceteth-10 to ceteth-50 as CTFA name); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units (steareth-10 to steareth-50 as CTFA name); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohols, especially those containing from 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units (isosteareth-10 to isosteareth-50 as CTFA name); and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C) 8 -C 30 Alcohols) include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more especially those containing from 10 to 40 ethylene oxide units (oleyl polyether-10 to oleyl polyether-40 as CTFA name); and mixtures thereof.
As examples of mono-or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preference is given to using mono-or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 An alcohol.
In particular, mono-or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 The alcohol corresponds to the formula:
RO-[CH 2 -CH(CH 2 OH)-O] m -H or RO- [ CH (CH) 2 OH)-CH 2 O] m -H
Wherein R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 And is preferably C 8 -C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably in the range of 1.5 to 10.
As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: polyglycerol-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleyl cetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and stearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol.
Alcohols may equally denote mixtures of alcohols, and the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that several polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
Among the mono-or polyglycerolated alcohols, C containing 1 mol of glycerol is preferably used 8 /C 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol of glycerin 10 /C 12 Alcohol and C containing 1.5 moles of Glycerol 12 An alcohol.
Mono-or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 The fatty acid ester may correspond to the formula:
R'O-[CH 2 -CH(CH 2 OR''')-O] m -R ' ' or R ' O- [ CH (CH) 2 OR''')-CH 2 O] m -R''
Wherein each of R ', R' 'and R' '' independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 And is preferably C 8 -C 30 An alkyl-CO-or alkenyl-CO-group, with the proviso that at least one of R ', R ", and R'" is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably in the range of 1.5 to 10.
Examples of polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and also mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 ethylene oxide units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
According to one of the embodiments of the invention, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, andmore preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as C 8 -C 24 Preferably C 12 -C 22 Glycerides of fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; c 8 -C 24 Preferably C 12 -C 22 Sorbitol esters of fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; c 8 -C 24 Preferably C 12 -C 22 Sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkylglucose) esters of fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar and C 8 -C 24 Preferably C 12 -C 22 Ethers of fatty alcohol(s); and mixtures thereof.
As the glycerides of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof; and as their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, there may be cited mono-, di-or triesters (mono-, di-or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol) of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearates), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tristearate).
Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165, and the products containing glyceryl stearate (mono-and distearate) and potassium stearate, sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
C 8 -C 24 The sorbitan esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be chosen from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and fatty acidsAnd esters of alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, 20 to 100 EO, such as, for example, sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the ICI company under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the ICI company under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the ICI company under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds sold by Uniqema under the names Tween 20 or Tween 60.
As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearate, esters such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitate, esters such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty acid esters, diesters of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate), mixed esters of methylglucoside and oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixtures (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), esters of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucosisostearate), esters of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methylglucose laurate), mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquiisostearate), mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquistearate), and in particular the products sold under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof.
As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and of glucose or of alkylglucose, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and of methylglucose, and in particular of polyethylene glycol ethers of the diesters of methylglucose and of stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose distearate), products such as sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucam E-20 distearate, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of the monoesters and diesters of methylglucose and of stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate), and in particular products sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucamate SSE-20 and by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Grillose-20, and mixtures thereof.
As sucrose esters, sucrose palmitoyl stearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate may be cited, for example.
As the sugar ether, an alkylpolyglycoside may be used, and for example decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name myol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name planet 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, may be specifically cited; octanoyl/decanoyl glucosides such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucosides such as the products sold by Henkel under the names PLANTAREN 1200N and PLANTACARE 1200; coco glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel; cetearyl glucoside, possibly mixed with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl alcohol, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with arachidyl alcohol, sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35/65), sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils, such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and coconut (7 EO) glycerides, may also be cited.
The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains an alkenyl group or C 12 -C 22 Acyl branches such as oleyl or isostearyl. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
According to one of the embodiments of the invention, the nonionic surfactant may be chosen from copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular copolymers having the formula:
HO(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b (C 2 H 4 O) c H
wherein a, b and c are integers such that a + c is in the range of 2 to 100 and b is in the range of 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
According to one of the embodiments of the invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Mention may be made, without limitation, of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
The silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound having formula (I):
Figure 126827DEST_PATH_IMAGE008
wherein:
R 1 、R 2 and R 3 Independently of one another represent C 1 -C 6 Alkyl or a radical- (CH) 2 ) x -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -(OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 ) z -OR 4 At least one radical R 1 、R 2 Or R 3 Is not an alkyl group; r is 4 Is hydrogen, alkyl or acyl;
a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
b is an integer in the range of 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;
x is an integer in the range of 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer in the range of 0 to 5.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), alkyl is methyl, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of compounds having formula (II):
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE009
wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of compounds having formula (III):
Figure 973823DEST_PATH_IMAGE010
wherein A' and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.
Compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are wherein a is 22, B is 2 and y is 12, respectively; a is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; a is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein a is 15 and y is 13.
(optional additives)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any optional additive commonly used in the cosmetic field, selected for example from oils, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, solvents, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickeners, hydrophobic thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, film formers, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, pH regulators, disinfectants, uv screening agents, cosmetic active agents other than ingredient (a), such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.
As pH regulators, at least one acidifying agent and/or at least one basifying agent (alkalifying agent) can be used.
The acidifying agent can be, for example, an inorganic or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, a carboxylic acid, such as tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, or a sulfonic acid.
The acidulant may be present in an amount in the range of less than 5% by weight, preferably in the range of 3% by weight or less, and more preferably in the range of 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The alkalizing or alkaline agent may be, for example, any inorganic or organic alkaline agent commonly used in cosmetic products, such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the following structure:
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE011
wherein
R represents an alkylene group, such as optionally substituted by hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 Alkyl-substituted propylene, and R 1 、R 2 、R 3 And R 4 Independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or C 1 -C 4 Hydroxyalkyl groups, which can be exemplified by 1, 3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine may be preferred.
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-miscible solvent, such as a lower monohydric alcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, C 3 -C 4 Ketones or C 3 -C 4 An aldehyde. A water miscible solvent that can preferably be used is ethanol. The content of water-miscible solvent may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is a routine matter for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the above-mentioned optional additives which may be present in the composition according to the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties are not thereby affected.
[ preparation ]
The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner.
For example, the composition according to the invention may be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
mixing of
(a) At least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) At least one phosphoric acid-based compound;
(c) At least one metal oxide; and
(d) The amount of water is controlled by the amount of water,
such that the amount of (a) the ellagic acid compound in the composition is 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is possible to further mix any of the optional ingredients.
It may be more preferable to first mix (a) the ellagic acid compound, (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound, and (d) water, and then the mixture is further mixed with (c) the metal oxide to obtain the composition according to the present invention.
The mixing can be carried out at any temperature, such as room temperature (e.g., 20-25 ℃, preferably 25 ℃), preferably 30 ℃ or higher, preferably 40 ℃ or higher, and more preferably 50 ℃ or higher. It may be preferred to further mix with any of the above optional ingredients such as a pH adjuster.
The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as W/O emulsion, O/W emulsion, gel, solution, and the like. It may be preferred that the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.
[ cosmetic method ]
The composition according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin materials. Mention may be made, as keratin materials, of the skin, the scalp, the hair, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the nails.
The composition according to the invention can be used as an antioxidant, whitening or antibacterial product for keratin materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used as a whitening product.
The composition according to the invention may preferably be intended for application to keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp and/or the lips, preferably the skin.
The composition according to the invention can therefore be used in a cosmetic process for keratin substances, preferably the skin. In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process, preferably a whitening process, directed against keratin substances, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin substances a composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the present invention may be used as a topical cosmetic composition in the form of a lotion, milky lotion, cream, gel, paste, serum, foam or spray.
[ color stabilization method ]
The present invention also relates to a method of preventing or reducing discoloration, preferably discoloration over time, and more preferably discoloration to yellow or brown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water, the method comprising the step of adding (b) at least one phosphate compound to the composition.
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the above composition may be 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
The explanations regarding (a) the ellagic acid compound, (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound, (c) the metal oxide, and (d) water used in the composition according to the present invention are applicable to the above-described color stabilization method according to the present invention.
The composition for use according to the composition may comprise any of the optional ingredients as described above for the composition according to the invention.
[ use ]
The present invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one phosphoric acid based compound for preventing or reducing the discoloration, preferably the discoloration over time, and more preferably the discoloration to yellow or brown over time, of a composition comprising (a) at least one ellagic acid compound, (c) at least one metal oxide, and (d) water.
The amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the above composition may be 0.1% by weight or more with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The statements about (a) the ellagic acid compound, (b) the phosphoric acid-based compound, (c) the metal oxide, and (d) water for the composition according to the invention can be applied to the use according to the invention.
The composition for use according to the composition may comprise any of the optional ingredients as described above for the composition according to the invention.
Examples
The invention will be described in more detail by way of example. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
Examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7
[ preparation ]
Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in table 1. The amounts of ingredients are all based on the active ingredient in "wt%".
TABLE 1
Figure 327444DEST_PATH_IMAGE012
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE013
* Titanium dioxide coated mica
[ evaluation ]
(stability)
The stability of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 was evaluated by:
(1) The "b" value of the composition was measured immediately after preparation of the composition (initial);
(2) Measuring the "b" value of the composition maintained at 45 ℃ for 2 weeks (after 2 weeks);
(3) Δ b was determined by the difference between the "b" value (initial) and the "b" value (after 2 weeks); and is
(4) Δ b is classified based on the following criteria.
Measurements (1) and (2) were performed using a colorimeter (Konica Minolta, CM-700d, portable spectrophotometer).
Excellent in that: Δ b < 1.0
Good: 1.0 Delta b is less than or equal to 2.0
Difference: 2.0 Delta b is not more than
The results of the stability evaluation are shown in table 1.
Examples 1 and 2 show that compositions according to examples 1 and 2 comprising a phosphate compound (potassium cetyl phosphate) can prevent or reduce discoloration of the composition over time.
Example 3 shows that a composition according to example 3 comprising another phosphate compound (ceteth-10 phosphate) can prevent or reduce discoloration of the composition over time.
Example 4 shows that a composition according to example 4 comprising another phosphate-based compound (dipotassium hydrogen phosphate) can prevent or reduce discoloration of the composition over time.
Comparative examples 1 and 2 show that the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2, which do not include a phosphoric acid-based compound, cannot prevent or reduce discoloration of the compositions over time.
Comparative examples 1 and 2 also show that the discoloration over time is caused by titanium oxide in the form of a coating of not only particles but also another particle such as mica.
Comparative example 3 shows that the composition according to comparative example 3 comprising an anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) instead of a phosphoric acid-based compound cannot prevent or reduce discoloration of the composition over time.
Comparative example 4 shows that the composition according to comparative example 4 comprising another anionic surfactant (sodium cocoyl glycinate) instead of the phosphoric acid-based compound does not prevent or reduce the discoloration of the composition over time.
Comparative example 5 shows that the composition according to comparative example 5 comprising a cationic surfactant (palmitoylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) instead of a phosphoric acid-based compound is unable to prevent or reduce the discoloration of the composition over time.
Comparative example 6 shows that the composition according to comparative example 6 comprising another cationic surfactant (cetyltrimethylammonium chloride) instead of a phosphoric acid-based compound is unable to prevent or reduce the discoloration of the composition over time.
Comparative example 7 shows that the composition according to comparative example 7 comprising an amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine) instead of a phosphoric acid-based compound is unable to prevent or reduce the discoloration of the composition over time.
Examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 demonstrate that the phosphoric acid based compound can prevent or reduce discoloration, preferably discoloration over time, and more preferably discoloration to yellow or brown over time, of compositions comprising an ellagic acid compound, a metal oxide, and water.

Claims (7)

1. A composition, comprising:
(a) At least one ellagic acid compound;
(b) At least one phosphate compound selected from the group consisting of potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, and mixtures thereof;
(c) At least one metal oxide selected from titanium dioxide, mica (and) titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof; and
(d) The amount of water is controlled by the amount of water,
wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the composition is from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
the amount of the (b) phosphoric acid-based compound in the composition is 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
the amount of the (c) metal oxide in the composition is 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) ellagic acid compound in the composition is from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (b) phosphoric acid based compound in the composition is 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (c) metal oxide is not coated.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (c) metal oxide is present in a coating of a substrate.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the (c) metal oxide in the composition is from 0.5 to 20 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (d) water in the composition is from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
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