CN102802591A - Cosmetic and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Cosmetic and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102802591A CN102802591A CN2009801597712A CN200980159771A CN102802591A CN 102802591 A CN102802591 A CN 102802591A CN 2009801597712 A CN2009801597712 A CN 2009801597712A CN 200980159771 A CN200980159771 A CN 200980159771A CN 102802591 A CN102802591 A CN 102802591A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/47—Magnetic materials; Paramagnetic compounds
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition in the form of compacter powder, comprising a pulverulent phase comprising (a) 45% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one filler selected from the group consisting of a filler having an aspect ratio of 10 or more, silica microspheres, microporous polymer microspheres, polyurethane powder, polymer microcapsules, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders; (b) at least one non- magnetic pigment; and (c) optionally at least one magnetic particle, wherein the ratio of the non-magnetic pigment (s) /the magnetic particle (s) when the magnetic particle (s) is/are present in the cosmetic composition is 1 or more, as well as the method for preparing the cosmetic, and the like. The present invention can prevent a flow pattern or patterns which may be found on a conventional cosmetic including a substantial amount of a magnetic particles prepared by a wet process. Further, the present invention can prevent the paler surface color of a cosmetic prepared by a wet process as compared to the surface color of a cosmetic prepared by a dry process.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to powder cosmetic composition, die mould powder body (compacted powder) cosmetic composition particularly, and prepare method of cosmetics or the like.
Background of invention
The manufacturing powder cosmetic for example method of powdery foundation cream can be divided into two types, that is, and and dry method and wet method.
In dry method, the component (it mainly is a powder) of powder cosmetic is filled into during container for example coils.After filling, they are compressed through the mechanical force that motor, hydraulic jack or pneumatic cylinder etc. provide, prepare powder cosmetic with this component of compacting.If desired, can add ultrasound wave in said component, described in JP-A-H05-70325.
On the other hand, in wet method, disposable being distributed to of the component of powder cosmetic made slurry in the high amounts of solvents.Then, this slurry is filled in the container.After filling, this slurry through mechanical forces compress, is removed to desolvate simultaneously and/or subsequently and solidifies this slurry.
Usually, wet method is more complicated than dry method, so production cost is higher.But, the particular characteristic (for example slick texture and good anti-drippage property (drop resistance)) that wet method sometimes can be used specific preparaton (for example comprise a large amount of spherical powders those) or bring dry method to realize.Therefore, the use of wet method in recent years is universal day by day, and purpose provides new cosmetics, and it can be different from conventional cosmetic product.
Summary of the invention
But, more impossible problems in the dry method can appear in wet method.These problems can make and be difficult to wet method is used to prepare cosmetics, particularly powder cosmetic composition.
The problems referred to above are following:
(1) viewed flow pattern on the prepared cosmetics surface of wet method;
(2) surface color of the surface color of the prepared cosmetics of wet method cosmetics more prepared than dry method is lighter; With
(3) surface color of the prepared cosmetics of wet method is lighter than the color in the cosmetics.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to prevent the flow pattern in the prepared cosmetics of wet method, found.
Another object of the present invention is that the surface color of the surface color of the cosmetics that prevent that wet method the is prepared cosmetics more prepared than dry method is lighter.
Another object of the present invention is that the surface color of the cosmetics that prevent that wet method is prepared is lighter than the color in the cosmetics.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention can realize that it comprises the powdery phase through the powder cosmetic composition of moulding powder bodily form formula, and this powdery comprises mutually:
(a) be that 45 weight % or higher are selected from following at least a filler with respect to the said composition gross weight: have 10 or filler, silicon dioxide microsphere, microporous polymer microsphere, polyurethane powder, polymer microcapsule, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder of higher length-width ratio;
(b) at least a non-magnetic pigment; With
(c) at least a magnetic-particle of choosing wantonly,
Wherein when this magnetic-particle was present in this powder cosmetic composition, the ratio of this non-magnetic pigment/this magnetic-particle was 1 or higher.
In a kind of embodiment preferred, this powder cosmetic composition obtains through wet method.
This filler is preferably selected from natural mica, synthetic mica, and sericite, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder, and composition thereof.
This magnetic-particle can comprise iron oxide black.
Preferably this non-magnetic pigment comprises the composite pigment that contains inorganic core, and this nuclear is coated with at least a organic or inorganic coloring material at least in part.This composite pigment can preferably comprise at least a binding agent, is used for that organic or inorganic coloring material is fixed on this inorganic core with this.
With respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, this non-magnetic pigment can be 0.1-25 weight % with the total amount of this magnetic-particle when existing.
With respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, the total amount of powdery phase can be 80-95 weight %.
With respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, the amount of filler in powder cosmetic composition can be 60 weight % or higher, preferred 70 weight % or higher.
The ratio of non-magnetic pigment/magnetic-particle preferably 20 or higher and more preferably 50 or higher in this powder cosmetic composition.
Another aspect of the present invention is the method for preparing cosmetics, and it comprises following steps:
At least the powder that will comprise at least a non-magnetic pigment is distributed to liquid, obtains slurry;
Through compression or suction with the molding in container of this slurry; With
The slurry of dry this molding,
Be characterised in that this powder does not comprise magnetic-particle, perhaps when this powder comprises magnetic-particle, the amount of this magnetic-particle makes that the ratio of non-magnetic pigment/magnetic-particle is 1 or higher in these cosmetics.
In said method, preferably the liquid of at least a portion is removed in forming step.
Further preferably this powder does not contain magnetic-particle.This magnetic-particle can comprise iron black oxide.
Preferably this non-magnetic pigment comprises above-mentioned composite pigment.This composite pigment can preferably comprise at least a binding agent, is used for organic or inorganic coloring material are fixed to this inorganic core.
With respect to the gross weight of these cosmetics, this non-magnetic pigment can be 0.1-25 weight % with the total amount of this magnetic-particle when existing.
With respect to the gross weight of these cosmetics, the total amount of this powder can be 80-95 weight %.
The invention still further relates to the cosmetics that obtain through said method, it is by the cosmetics example that comprises above-mentioned powder cosmetic composition.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 has represented two photos according to the powder cosmetic composition of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1.
Fig. 2 has represented figure, its represented reach 100 times get this powder cosmetic composition of a part from its surface the time, according to the variation of the powder cosmetic composition surface color of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1.
Fig. 3 has represented that it has represented the influence of magnetic according to the photo of the powder cosmetic composition of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1.
The specific embodiment
The inventor have been found that the above-mentioned flow pattern of the cosmetics that wet method obtains and more the source of weak color be included in the magnetic-particle in these cosmetics, typically be magnetic paint.
The meetings such as machine that are used for preparing cosmetics are owing to the mechanical stress that is applied at its preparation running on this machine etc. has magnetic.
The magnetic-particle that these effect of magnetic influence cosmetics are comprised causes the magnetic-particle gathering, and this has caused the flow pattern of cosmetics and lighter surface color.This problem is possible in wet method; Because move in the liquid medium that this magnetic-particle can mainly use in wet method; And this magnetic-particle can not move in the dry method of not using liquid medium, so this magnetic-particle can not cause this problem in dry method.Therefore, should be noted that the problems referred to above are that wet method is distinctive.
(powder cosmetic composition)
According to the present invention, in order to address the above problem, the powder cosmetic composition of the present invention that obtains through wet method does not comprise the magnetic-particle that magnetic-particle perhaps comprises relatively small amount.
At first, powder cosmetic composition of the present invention explanation in more detail below.
(powdery phase)
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises powdery as key component.The total amount of powdery phase can be 70-100 weight %, preferred 80-95 weight %, and more preferably 85-95 weight % is with respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition.The amount of this powdery phase is only to calculate based on wherein powder, and does not consider that the amount of other a kind of component for example may reside in the solvent of trace wherein when calculating.
This powdery comprises at least a specific filler and at least a non-magnetic pigment mutually as solvent, and can comprise at least a magnetic-particle as optional component.
Randomly, they can carry out surface treatment with water-repelling agent.This water-repelling agent can be selected from for example polymethyl siloxane of organosilicon, polydimethylsiloxane, perfluoroalkyl-silane; Fatty acid is stearic acid for example; Metallic soap is two aluminium myristates for example, the glutamic acid aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow, and perfluoralkyl phosphate, perfluoroalkyl-silane, the perfluoroalkyl silazane, the polyoxide of hexafluoropropene comprises the polysiloxane of perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group; Aminating acid; Aminating acid of N-acyl group or their salt; Lecithin, isopropyl three iso stearyl titanate esters; Esters is decanedioic acid isooctadecanol ester for example; Surfactant is the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium for example; With their mixture.
The aminating acid of this N-acyl group can comprise the acyl group with 8-22 carbon atom, for example such as 2-ethyl hexanoyl base, and hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmityl, stearoyl or coconut palm acyl group group.The salt of these chemical compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salt.This aminating acid can for example be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine and their derivant.
Term alkyl described in the aforesaid compound especially representes to have 1-30 carbon atom, the alkyl of preferred 5-16 carbon atom.Handled hydrophobic pigment is described among the application EP-A-1086683 especially.
According to a kind of preferred implementation pattern, pigment can apply with N-acyl group-aminating acid lauroyl lysine for example, and surfactant is the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium for example; With organosilicon polydimethylsiloxane for example; With esters decanedioic acid isooctadecanol ester for example.
(specific filler)
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least a specific filler.
In one embodiment, as this specific filler, use to have 10 or the filler of higher high length-width ratio.This length-width ratio can be 20 or higher or 50 or higher.This length-width ratio can be passed through average thickness and average length, and according to formula: length-width ratio=length/thickness is confirmed.
Concrete, such length-width ratio be 10 or higher filler can be selected from natural mica, synthetic mica, sericite and composition thereof.
In other a kind of embodiment,, use loose (incompactable) filler (being known as loose filler) as this specific filler.
As what use here, term " loose filler " expression powder, it is in and when being higher than certain amount (this amount will depend on the material of being considered, for example be greater than or equal to the amount of 5 weight % of composition total weight), uses hand operated press for example at 2*10
7Do not have good compactness under the pressure of Pa (200bar) and/or be unfavorable for producing product with good impact strength; For example in drop test, have mass loss greater than 12%, and/or can not acquisition can even wear (eroded) product compaction.This at least a loose filler can be organic or inorganic, and is in spherical or lamellar or stratiform.
Loose like this filler can for example be selected from:
-silicon dioxide microsphere; For example has percent opening (open porosity); Hollow silica microsphere for example; " Silica Beads SP700/HA (R) is " with " Silica Beads SB700 (R) " with from " Sunspheres H-33 (R) " and " Sunspheres H-51 (R) " of Asahi Glass company to comprise product from Maprecos company; These microspheres activating agent that randomly can apply some make up is filled;
-little porous polymer microsphere, it has the structure that is similar to sponge structure; Their common specific surface areas are 0.5m at least
2μ g, for example 1m at least
2/ g, this specific surface area does not have the upper limit, and except making the very resulting limit value of physical possibility of the microsphere of high porosity: this specific surface area can be for example to reach 1000m
2/ g or even higher.The example of these microspheres comprises the acrylate copolymer microsphere; Those that for example process by the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of " the Polytrap6603 Adsorber " of RP Scherrer company and by those of polymethyl methacrylate " Micropearl M100 " preparation of SEPPIC company;
-polyurethane powder, hexamethylene diisocyanate and the powdered copolymer of for example under title " Plastic Powder D-400 ", selling trihydroxy methyl hexyl lactone by company's T oshiki;
-polymer microcapsule only has a sealing chamber and forms storage (reservoir), and it can comprise for example cosmetic active agent of liquid; These polymer microcapsules prepare through known method, for example are described among patent US patent No.3615972 and the EP56219A these.They can for example be processed by following: ethylenic unsaturated acid, amine or ester polymer of monomers or copolymer, agroform or vinylidene chloride polymer or copolymer; For example, the microcapsule of processing by methyl acrylate or methyl methacrylate polymer or copolymer and the alternately copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile, for example " Expancel " of Expancel company.These polymer for example comprise having the unit that derives from vinylidene chloride of 20-60 weight %, other unit of the unit that derives from acrylonitrile of 20-60 weight % and 0-40 weight % for example derive from acrylic acid and/or styrene monomer unitary those; Can also use crosslinked acrylate copolymer and copolymer;
-elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder; For example be described among the document JP 2243612A; These that for example under title " Trefil Powder E-506C ", sell by the Dow Corning of company; Coating is with the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder of organic siliconresin, and silsesquioxane resins for example is for example described in the patent US patent No.5538793.Such elastomer is at title " KSP-100 ", " KSP-101 ", " KSP-102 ", " KSP-103 " sold by the Shin-Etsu of company under " KSP-104 " and " KSP-105 ", and composition thereof; With
-its mixture.
In a kind of embodiment preferred, above-mentioned specific filler is selected from
-elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder;
-natural mica;
-synthetic mica;
-sericite; With
-its mixture.
Can use filler or two kinds of perhaps combinations of polytype filler of single type.
A large amount of relatively above-mentioned fillers are difficult to compacting in dry method; So; Comprise that the powder cosmetic composition of powdery phase preferably prepares through wet method, this powdery comprises 45 weight % or higher loose filler mutually or has 10 or the filler of higher high-aspect-ratio.Therefore; The amount of the above-mentioned specific filler that powder cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises is that with respect to the gross weight of said composition, 45 weight % are perhaps higher; Preferred 50 weight % or higher; More preferably 55 weight % or higher, more preferably 60 weight % or higher and more preferably 70 weight % or higher.
(non-magnetic pigment)
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least a non-magnetic pigment.Term " non-magnetic pigment " expression does not have the pigment of magnetic susceptibility (magnetic susceptibility), that is, for the insensitive pigment of the action of a magnetic field, and it for example is not inclined to along with field line is arranged.As long as this non-magnetic pigment does not show magnetic, then material and the type for this non-magnetic pigment do not limit.
As this non-magnetic pigment, the preferred non-magnetic pigment that is insoluble to liquid that uses is because it is not dissolved in the used liquid medium of wet method.So it remains in the powder cosmetic composition, and can be easy to control the color of this powder cosmetic composition.
Therefore, as this non-magnetic pigment, preferably insoluble organic non-magnetic pigment and insoluble inorganic non-magnetic pigment, more preferably insoluble inorganic non-magnetic pigment.
As this insoluble non magnetic organic pigment, can use red 201, orange 203, yellow 4 etc., its surface treatment becomes insoluble.
As this insoluble inorganic non-magnetic pigment, can should be mentioned that iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, ultramarine and Prussian blue.Iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide is perhaps Prussian blue can be preferred.
Non magnetic pearlescent pigment also can be used as this insoluble inorganic non-magnetic pigment.As this non magnetic pearlescent pigment, can should be mentioned that bismuth oxychloride, the Muscovitum that the Muscovitum of coated by titanium dioxide and aluminium hydroxide coat.
In the present invention, diameter also is classified into insoluble inorganic non-magnetic pigment less than the titanium dioxide fine grained of 1 μ m.Diameter can be used as white inorganic non-magnetic pigment less than the titanium dioxide of 1 μ m.
A kind of most preferred example of this non-magnetic pigment is a composite pigment, and it comprises inorganic core, and this nuclear applies with at least a organic or inorganic coloring material at least in part.Preferably this composite pigment comprises at least a binding agent, is used for organic or inorganic coloring material are fixed to inorganic core.
This composite pigment can have for example 0.5-500m2/g, for example 1.5-400m2/g, perhaps the BET specific surface area of 2-300m2/g." BET specific surface area " is through the measured value of BET (Brunauer-Emmaett-Telles) method.
This inorganic core can have any form that is suitable for fixing organic or inorganic coloring material grains, and wherein the example of indefiniteness comprises spheric, globular; Granulous, polyhedral, acicular; Fusiform; The thallus of sheet form, the combination of the grain of rice or scale (scale) and these forms.
In one embodiment, the ratio of the full-size of said nuclear and its minimum dimension is 1-50.
The average-size of this inorganic core can be 1nm (nanometer)-100nm, for example 5nm-75nm, perhaps 10nm-50nm.In one embodiment, the average-size of this inorganic core can be 15nm-40nm, for example such as 20nm or 25nm.
Term " average-size " expression in the given size of 50% total amount, is called D50 through the statistics grading curve.This average-size can be through the measured mathematical mean of image analysis (electron microscopy).
The refractive index of this inorganic core can be not less than 2, is more preferably and is not less than 2.1, for example is not less than 2.2.
In forming the material of this inorganic core, what can indefiniteness mention is slaine and metallic oxide, for example the oxide of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, ferrum, barba hispanica, aluminum and chromium; Aluminium oxide, glass, pottery; Graphite, silicon dioxide, silicate; Comprise aluminosilicate and borosilicate, synthetic mica, and composition thereof.
In one embodiment, this inorganic core can be by titanyl compound TiO for example
2, the oxide of ferrum is Fe for example
2O
3, the oxide of cerium, zinc and aluminum; Silicon dioxide; For example aluminosilicate and borosilicate are processed with silicate.
Using the specific surface area of this measured inorganic core of BET method can be about 1m
2The about 1000m of/g-
2/ g, for example about 10m
2The about 600m of/g-
2/ g, perhaps about 20m
2The about 400m of/g-
2/ g.In one embodiment, the specific surface area of this inorganic core can be 25m
2/ g-75m
2/ g.In other a kind of embodiment, the specific surface area of this inorganic core can be 40m
2/ g-60m
2/ g is for example such as 50m
2/ g.
Randomly, this inorganic core can be painted.
The mass ratio of this nuclear in composite pigment can surpass 50% of composite pigment gross weight.For example, the amount of this nuclear in this composite pigment can be the gross weight 50-70 weight % with respect to this composite pigment, for example with respect to the gross weight 60-70 weight % of this composite pigment.
Binding agent can be an any kind when existing, and limits its and allows organic or the inorganic coloring material is attached on the surface of this inorganic core.This binding agent can be organic.
This binding agent can be selected from the example of indefiniteness; Include organic silicon compound; For example organosilicon polymer, polymeric or oligomeric chemical compound or the like and be selected from organosilan, fluoroalkyl organosilan and polysiloxanes, and different coupling agents; For example based on the coupling agent of silane, titanate esters, aluminic acid ester or zirconate, and composition thereof.
In one embodiment, these organo-silicon compound can be selected from:
-available from the organosilan (1) of alkoxy silane,
-be selected from the perhaps unmodified polysiloxanes (2) of the modification of indefiniteness tabulation, comprise:
The polysiloxanes of-this modification (2A), it comprises and is selected from following at least a group especially: polyethers, polyester and epoxide (they will be called " polysiloxanes of modification "),
-this polysiloxanes (2B), it has the group of at least one indefiniteness tabulation below being selected from the silicon atom that is positioned at polymer ends portion: carboxylic acid, pure and mild hydroxyl and
-available from the fluoroalkyl organic silane compound (3) of fluoroalkyl silane.
This organic silane compound (1) can be available from the alkoxysilane compound containing trialkylsilyl group in molecular structure of formula (I):
R
1 aSiX
4-a (I)
Wherein:
-R
1Be selected from C
6H
5-, (CH
3)
2CHCH
2-and n-C
bH
2b+1-(wherein b is 1-18),
-X is selected from CH
3O-and C
2H
5O-and
-a is 0-3.
The example of alkoxysilane compound containing trialkylsilyl group in molecular structure indefiniteness can comprise and is selected from following alkoxy silane: MTES, dimethyldiethoxysilane, phenyl triethoxysilane; The diphenyl diethoxy silane, MTMS, dimethyldimethoxysil,ne; Phenyltrimethoxysila,e; Dimethoxydiphenylsilane, isobutyl group trimethoxy silane, decyl trimethoxy silane or the like.In one embodiment, this alkoxysilane compound containing trialkylsilyl group in molecular structure can be selected from MTES, phenyl triethoxysilane, MTMS, dimethyldimethoxysil,ne and isobutyl group trimethoxy silane.In other a kind of embodiment, this alkoxysilane compound containing trialkylsilyl group in molecular structure can be selected from MTES, MTMS and phenyl triethoxysilane.
Polysiloxanes (2) can be selected from the chemical compound of formula (II):
Wherein
-R
2Be selected from H-and CH
3-and
-d is 15-450.
In one embodiment, R
2Comprise H.
The polysiloxanes of this modification (2A) can be selected from following formula:
-(a
1) have the modified polyorganosiloxane of polyethers, be selected from the chemical compound of formula (III)
Wherein
-R
3Bao Han – (CH
2)
h-;
-R
4Bao Han – (CH
2)
i-CH
3
-R
5Xuan Zi – OH ,-COOH ,-CH=CH
2,-C (CH
3)=CH
2He – (CH
2)
j-CH
3
-R
6Bao Han – (CH
2)
k-CH
3
-g and h are 1-15 independently;
-j and k are 0-15 independently;
-e is 1-50; With
-f is 1-300;
-(a
2) have the polysiloxanes of the modification of polyester, be selected from the chemical compound of formula (IV):
Wherein
-R
7, R
8And R
9Xuan Zi – (CH independently
2)
q-;
-R
10Xuan Zi – OH ,-COOH ,-CH=CH
2,-C (CH
3)=CH
2He – (CH
2)
r-CH
3
-R
11Bao Han – (CH
2)
s-CH
3
-n and q are 1-15 independently;
-r and s are 0-15 independently;
-e is 1-50; With
-f is 1-300;
-(a
3) have the polysiloxanes of the modification of epoxide group, be selected from the chemical compound of formula V:
Wherein
-R
12Bao Han – (CH
2)
v-;
-v is 1-15;
-t is 1-50; With
-u is 1-300; With
-its mixture.
In one embodiment, the polysiloxanes of this modification (2A) comprises the polysiloxanes of the modification with polyethers of formula (III).
The polysiloxanes of modification (2B) can be selected from the chemical compound of formula (VI) in the end:
Wherein
-R
13And R
14Xuan Zi – OH independently, R
16OH and R
17COOH;
-R
15Xuan Zi – CH
3He – C
6H
5
-R
16And R
17Bao Han – (CH
2)
y-;
-y is 1-15;
-w is 1-200; With
-x is 0-100.
In one embodiment, the polysiloxanes of modification comprises and has at least one radicals R at least one end
16And/or R
17Polysiloxanes, it has hydroxy-acid group at least at least one end silicon atom.
This fluoroalkyl organic silane compound (3) can be available from the fluoroalkyl silane of formula (VII):
CF
3(CF
2)
zCH
2CH
2(R
18)
aSiX
4-a (VII)
Wherein:
-R
18Be selected from CH
3-, C
2H
5-, CH
3O-and C
2H
5O-;
-X is selected from CH
3O-and C
2H
5O-;
-z is 0-15; With
-a is 0-3.
This fluoroalkyl silane can be selected from the indefiniteness example, comprises the trifluoro propyl trimethoxy silane, ten trifluoro octyl group trimethoxy silanes; 17 fluorine decyl trimethoxy silanes; 17 fluorine decyl methyl dimethoxysilanes, trifluoro propyl triethoxysilane, ten trifluoro octyltri-ethoxysilane; 17 fluorine decyl triethoxysilanes, 17 fluorine decyl methyldiethoxysilane or the like.In one embodiment, this fluoroalkyl silane is selected from the trifluoro propyl trimethoxy silane, ten trifluoro octyl group trimethoxy silanes and 17 fluorine decyl trimethoxy silanes.In other a kind of embodiment, this fluoroalkyl silane is selected from trifluoro propyl trimethoxy silane and ten trifluoro octyl group trimethoxy silanes.
This siloyl group coupling agent can be selected from the indefiniteness example, comprises vinyltrimethoxy silane, VTES; γ-An Jibingjisanyiyangjiguiwan, γ-glycidoxypropyltrimewasxysilane, γ-Qiu Jibingjisanjiayangjiguiwan; γ-methacryloxy-propyl trimethoxy silicane; N-β-(amino-ethyl)-gamma-amino propyl trimethoxy silicane, γ-glycidoxypropyl-propyl group methyl dimethoxysilane and γ-r-chloropropyl trimethoxyl silane, or the like.
This titanate-based coupling agent can be selected from isopropyl stearoyl titanate esters; Isopropyl three (dioctylphyrophosphoric acid ester) titanate esters; Isopropyl three (N-aminoethylamino ethyl) titanate esters, two (two (tridecyl) phosphate ester) titanate esters of four octyl groups, four (2; 2-two aryloxy group methyl-1-butyl) two (two (tridecyl)) phosphate ester titanate esters, two (dioctylphyrophosphoric acid ester) ethoxyacetic acid ester titanate esters and two (dioctylphyrophosphoric acid ester) ethylidene titanate esters or the like.
This aluminic acid ester group coupling agent can be selected from acetyl aluminum alkoxide diisopropyl oxide, diisopropoxy list oacetic acid aluminum, aluminium tris(ethylacetoacetate) and triacetyl acetone acid aluminum or the like.
This zirconic acid ester group coupling agent can be selected from tetra-acetylated acetone acid zirconium; Dibutoxy diacetyl group acetone acid zirconium (zirconium dibutoxybisacetylacetonate); Tetraethyl acetoacetic acid zirconium, three butoxy list oacetic acid zirconiums and three butoxy zirconium acetylacetonates or the like.
The molecular weight that is used as the chemical compound of binding agent can be 300-100000.
In order to obtain evenly to cover the coating of this inorganic core, this binding agent can be in such form, and it is liquid or its water soluble or multiple solvent.
The amount of this binding agent can be 0.01-15 weight %, and for example 0.02-12.5 weight % or 0.03-10 weight % (calculating with respect to C or Si) are with respect to the particulate weight that comprises this nuclear and this binding agent.About the further details of the mode of calculating the binding agent relative quantity, can be with reference to european patent application No.EP1184426A2.
In one embodiment, based on the gross weight of this composite pigment, the amount of existing binding agent can not surpass 5 weight % in the compositions, perhaps 3 weight % for example.
This organic or inorganic coloring material can for example be selected from concrete chemical compound, and it is insoluble to the used liquid medium of wet method of preparation powder cosmetic composition of the present invention.
This inorganic coloring material can for example comprise for example white carbon black of inorganic pigment.
This organic coloring substance can for example comprise pigment, for example organic color lake or other pigment, and it can be selected from following chemical compound and composition thereof:
-alkermes;
-azo, anthraquinone, indigo-blue, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenyl methane, the perhaps organic coloring substance of fluoran dyes; With
-sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, perhaps acid stain azo for example, anthraquinone, indigo-blue, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, the organic color lake or the insoluble salt of triphenyl methane, perhaps difluoride dye, this dyestuff can comprise at least a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group.
In can be used in the organic coloring substance of powder cosmetic composition of the present invention, the example of the indefiniteness that can mention can be the blue No.4 of D&C, D&C palm fibre No.1, the green No.5 of D&C, the green No.6 of D&C, D&C orange No.4; D&C orange No.5, D&C orange No.10, D&C orange No.11, the red No.6 of D&C, the red No.7 of D&C; The red No.17 of D&C, the red No.21 of D&C, the red No.22 of D&C, the red No.27 of D&C, the red No.28 of D&C; The red No.30 of D&C, the red No.31 of D&C, the red No.33 of D&C, the red No.34 of D&C, the red No.36 of D&C; The purple No.2 of D&C, the yellow No.7 of D&C, the yellow No.8 of D&C, the yellow No.10 of D&C, the yellow No.11 of D&C; The yellow No.1 of FD&C, the green No.3 of FD&C, the red No.40 of FD&C, the yellow No.5 of FD&C and the yellow No.6 of FD&C.
This organic coloring substance can include airborne style like the organic color lake such as Colophonium or aluminum benzoate load.
In organic color lake in can be used in the present composition, the example of the indefiniteness that can mention is the red No.2 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.3 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.4 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.6 aluminum of D&C color lake; The red No.6 barium of D&C color lake, the red No.6 barium of D&C/strontium color lake, the red No.6 strontium of D&C color lake, the red No.6 potassium of D&C color lake, the red No.7 aluminum of D&C color lake; The red No.7 barium of D&C color lake, the red No.7 calcium of D&C color lake, the red No.7 calcium of D&C/strontium color lake, the red No.7 zirconium of D&C color lake, the red No.8 sodium of D&C color lake; The red No.9 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.9 barium of D&C color lake, the red No.9 barium of D&C/strontium color lake, the red No.9 zirconium of D&C color lake, the red No.10 sodium of D&C color lake; The red No.19 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.19 barium of D&C color lake, the red No.19 zirconium of D&C color lake, the red No.21 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.21 zirconium of D&C color lake; The red No.22 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.27 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.27 aluminum/titanium of D&C/zirconium color lake, the red No.27 barium of D&C color lake, the red No.27 calcium of D&C color lake; The red No.27 zirconium of D&C color lake, the red No.28 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.30 of D&C color lake, the red No.31 calcium of D&C color lake; The red No.33 aluminum of D&C color lake, the red No.34 calcium of D&C color lake, the red No.36 of D&C color lake, the red No.40 aluminum of D&C color lake; The blue No.1 aluminum of D&C color lake, the green No.3 aluminum of D&C color lake, D&C orange No.4 aluminum color lake, D&C orange No.5 aluminum color lake; D&C orange No.5 zirconium color lake, D&C orange No.10 aluminum color lake, D&C orange No.17 barium color lake, the yellow No.5 aluminum of D&C color lake; The yellow No.5 zirconium of D&C color lake, the yellow No.6 aluminum of D&C color lake, the yellow No.7 zirconium of D&C color lake, the yellow No.10 aluminum of D&C color lake; The blue No.1 aluminum of FD&C color lake, the red No.4 aluminum of FD&C color lake, the red No.40 aluminum of FD&C color lake, the yellow No.5 aluminum color lake of FD&C and the yellow No.6 aluminum of FD&C color lake.
Chemical compound corresponding to above-mentioned each organic coloring substance is " International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook " at title; 1997 editions 371-386 and 524-528 page or leaf; Mention in the works by " The Cosmetic; Toiletry, and Fragrance Association " publication, its content is hereby incorporated by.
This organic or inorganic coloring material amount in compositions can be based on the 10-500 weight portion of per 100 parts inorganic core.In the other a kind of embodiment of the present invention, this organic or inorganic coloring material amount in compositions can be based on the 20-250 weight portion or the 40-125 weight portion of per 100 parts inorganic core.
This organic or inorganic coloring material ratio in composite pigment can surpass with respect to 30% of this composite pigment gross weight.In one embodiment, this organic or inorganic coloring material amount in this composite pigment can be 30-50 weight %, for example 30-40 weight %.
This composite pigment can be made through any appropriate method, for example mechanical-chemical method or solution precipitation method, and the organic coloring substance dissolving with its in surface of said nuclear deposition.
Can use or not use binding agent.
Preferable methods comprises mechanical mixture this organic or inorganic coloring material and this nuclear.Before organic coloring substance was introduced, binding agent can add and mix with said nuclear.
This composite pigment can for example use European patent application EP 1184426 and one of method described in the EP1217046 to produce, and its content is hereby incorporated by.In one embodiment, use the said method of EP1184426 to produce this composite pigment.
In one embodiment, the granule that is used to constitute inorganic core at first mixes with binding agent.
This binding agent can be attached on the surface of this inorganic core uniformly like this, preferably with described granule at first through grinding machine come depolymerization they.
Can select mixing and stirring condition, so that this nuclear applies with binding agent equably.Such condition can be controlled, and makes that linear load (linear load) is 19.6 N/cm (newton/centimetre)-19160 N/cm, for example 98 N/cm-14170 N/cm or 147 N/cm-980 N/cm.This processing time can be 5 minutes-24 hours.In one embodiment, this processing time is 10 minutes-20 hours.Rotating speed can be 2 rpm (rev/min)-1000 rpm.In one embodiment, rotating speed can be 5 rpm-1000 rpm and in other a kind of embodiment, and this rotating speed can be 10 rpm-800 rpm.
After the coating at least partly of this inorganic core was with binding agent, this was organic or the inorganic coloring material can add and mixing under agitation, so that it is attached on the adhesive phase.
The example of adding method is successive a large amount of adding, perhaps adds on a small quantity.
Mixing and stirring (no matter this inorganic core and binding agent, or this organic or inorganic coloring material and the inorganic core that applies with binding agent) can use such equipment to carry out, it can apply rapid shearing and/or compression stress arrives mixture of powders.The example of such equipment is roller blender (roller mixer), blade mixer etc.In one embodiment, use the roller blender.The example of the equipment that can use is taught among the European patent No.EP1184426A2.
Other a kind of method of making composite pigment is described in Japan Patent No.JP3286463, and it discloses the solution precipitation method.
This organic coloring substance can be dissolved in the ethanol, then inorganic core is dispersed in this alcoholic solution.
Can the alkaline aqueous solution of sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate slowly be joined in these mixture then, finally, can under constant agitation, slowly add the alcoholic solution (ethanolic calcium chloride solution) of calcium chloride.
As composite pigment, can should be mentioned that:
-synthesis of titanium dioxide (titane dioxide) (CI77891), the mixture of blue aluminum color lake (CI42090) of FD&C and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (part by weight separately is 58.1/40.7/1.2);
-synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the mixture of red No.7 of D&C (CI15850) and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (part by weight is 65.8/32.9/1.3 separately);
-synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the mixture of red No.28 of D&C (CI45410) and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (part by weight is 65.8/32.9/1.3 separately);
-synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the yellow 5 aluminum color lakes (CI191140) of laque jaune FD&C; And the mixture of polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (part by weight is 65.8/32.9/1.3 separately); With
-their mixture.
According to a kind of embodiment preferred; Powder composition of the present invention comprises such composite pigment; It comprises synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the mixture of blue aluminum color lake (CI42090) of FD&C and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (weight ratio is 58.1/40.7/1.2 separately).
The total amount of this non-magnetic pigment can be, with respect to this powder cosmetic composition gross weight, and 0.01-30 weight %, preferred 0.1-25 weight %, more preferably 0.5-20 weight %, more preferably 1-15 weight %.
(magnetic-particle)
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise at least a magnetic-particle.The granule of magnetic susceptibility represented to have in term " magnetic-particle ", that is, for the responsive granule of the action of a magnetic field, and it for example tends to along with field line is arranged.
But the amount of this magnetic-particle (for example magnetic paint) when existing is limited, makes when this magnetic-particle is present in this powder cosmetic composition; The ratio of this non-magnetic pigment/magnetic-particle is 1 or higher, preferred 2 or higher, and more preferably 5 is perhaps higher; More preferably 20 is perhaps higher, and more preferably 30 is perhaps higher, and more preferably 40 is perhaps higher; More preferably 50 or higher and most preferably 100 or higher.
Preferred powder cosmetic composition of the present invention does not comprise magnetic-particle.
As magnetic particle, can use any inorganic or organic pigment that can have magnetic.For example, comprise ferrum oxide Fe
3O
4Pearling agent (nacres) can be used as magnetic paint.As giving an example, the pearling agent pigment with magnetic is these that sell under the trade (brand) name below: the COLORONA BLACKSTAR BLUE of MERCK, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GREEN; COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE SUPER GREEN; MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK (17260), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289); With COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288), the perhaps FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED of ENGELHARD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GREEN; FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB; TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB; CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004; CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE RED 424 CHROMA-LITE; BLACK (4498), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE ROUGE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BRONZE (240 XB); CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GOLD (222 CB) and CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE COPPER (340 XB).
The preferred example that this magnetic-particle can also be mentioned is the iron oxide black granule, for example, and these that under trade (brand) name SICOVIT noir E172, sell by BASF.
This magnetic-particle can also comprise the soft iron of metallic iron, particularly passivation, and for example available from carbonyl iron, its content is hereby incorporated by through carrying out the described method of US patent No.6589331.This granule can comprise oxide surface layer.
This magnetic-particle can be spheroidal particle or flaky form.The size of this magnetic-particle can be less than or equal to 10 μ m, perhaps even 1 μ m or lower.
The example of this magnetic-particle when existing can be, with respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, and 0.00001-0.5 weight %, preferred 0.00001-0.3 weight %, more preferably 0.00001-0.1 weight %.
This magnetic-particle when existing with the total amount of this non-magnetic pigment can be, with respect to the 0.1-25 weight % of the gross weight of these cosmetics, preferred 0.1-20 weight %, more preferably 0.1-15 weight %.Powder cosmetic composition most preferably of the present invention does not comprise magnetic-particle.
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention does not comprise magnetic-particle, if perhaps in addition said composition comprise magnetic-particle, its amount is the amount of non-magnetic pigment at most.Therefore, powder cosmetic composition of the present invention does not receive the influence of magnetic or receives the influence of magnetic very slight.Therefore, powder cosmetic composition of the present invention can preferably use wet method to prepare.
(other component)
This powder cosmetic composition can further comprise at least a other component that is generally used in the cosmetics.This other component preferably is insoluble in the liquid medium used in the wet method, and preferably nonmagnetic.
As this other component, can should be mentioned that at least a other filler.This other filler can be inorganic or organic, and have any shape, and sheet shape for example is spherical or oval, no matter their crystal form (for example stratiform, cube, hexagonal crystal, iris etc.).
The other filler that can be used in the said compositions comprises Talcum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, polyamide powder (Nylon); Gather-the Beta-alanine powder polyurethane powder, polyethylene powders, polystyrene powder; (methyl) acrylic ester powder, fluoropolymer powder is polytetrafluorethylepowder powder (Teflon) for example, lauroyl lysine, starch; Boron nitride, acrylate copolymer powder, organosilicon powder be silicone resin powder (the for example Tospearls of Toshiba) for example, winnofil; Magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, bead and ceramic bead.Can use the combination of other filler or two kinds or polytype other filler of single type.
Ratio between above-mentioned (basically) specific filler/additional filler is 1 or higher.
The amount of this additional filler in powder cosmetic composition can be, with respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, and 0.1-50 weight %; Preferred 0.1-40 weight %; More preferably 0.1-30 weight %, more preferably 0.1-20 weight % and most preferably 0.1-10 weight %.
Randomly, powder cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise at least a binding agent.As binding agent, can should be mentioned that organosilicon, vegetable oil and animal oil, artificial oil, wax, higher fatty acids, higher alcohol etc.
The amount of this binding agent in powder cosmetic composition can be, with respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, and 0.1-15 weight %, preferred 0.1-10 weight %, more preferably 0.1-5 weight %, more preferably 0.1-3 weight % and most preferably 0.1-1 weight %.
Powder cosmetic composition of the present invention can further comprise for example antiseptic of other optional component, surfactant, antioxidant, flavouring agent, wetting agent, UV lightscreening agent, vitamin etc.
These optional component amounts in this powder cosmetic composition can be, with respect to the gross weight of this powder cosmetic composition, and 0.1-5 weight %, preferred 0.1-3 weight %, more preferably 0.1-1 weight %.
(method for preparing)
Next, with the method for explaining preparation cosmetics of the present invention below with more detailed mode based on wet method.
This method for preparing cosmetics of the present invention is used wet method, is used to prepare the for example powder cosmetic composition of the invention described above of cosmetics.Used wet method comprises step: powder is distributed to and obtains slurry in the liquid at least; Through compression or suction with the molding in container of this slurry; Slurry with dry this molding.The details of each step is explained below.
(dispersion steps)
In this step, powder is distributed to and prepares slurry in the liquid at least.This slurry is represented the thick suspension of powder in liquid here.
As stated, this powder comprises at least a non-magnetic pigment as solvent with can comprise at least a magnetic-particle as optional component.This powder preferably comprises at least a above-mentioned specific fillers.This powder can further comprise above-mentioned other component.
Most preferably this powder does not contain magnetic-particle.When magnetic-particle was present in this powder, then the amount of this magnetic-particle was restricted, made when this magnetic-particle is present in the powder cosmetic composition; The ratio of this non-magnetic pigment/this magnetic-particle is 1 or higher, preferred 2 or higher, and more preferably 5 is perhaps higher; More preferably 20 is perhaps higher, and more preferably 30 is perhaps higher, and more preferably 40 is perhaps higher; More preferably 50 or higher and most preferably 100 or higher.
Therefore, this powder can be before the dispersion steps by as preparation down: only mix non-magnetic pigment, perhaps non-magnetic pigment mixed with a small amount of magnetic-particle, make that the ratio of non-magnetic pigment/magnetic-particle is 1 perhaps higher.
Alternately, this powder can be before the dispersion steps as preparation down: the magnetic-particle that comprises at least a portion in the powder of this magnetic-particle with at least a non-magnetic pigment replacement.In this case, preferably, whole magnetic-particles is replaced with non-magnetic pigment.
This liquid typically is solvent, preferred volatile solvent.As volatile solvent, can should be mentioned that water, lower alcohol is ethanol and isopropyl alcohol for example, and ether, fluorohydrocarbon, volatility organosilicon is the cyclic or linear organosilicon of low-molecular-weight and hydrocarbon light liquid isoparaffin for example for example.Aspect availability, preferably isopropyl alcohol and light liquid isoparaffin.Light liquid isoparaffin is most preferred.Above-mentioned volatile solvent can separately or make up and use.
According to the present invention, for example, with said powder weighing, and through any machinery for example the Henschel blender mix.Preferred this mixed-powder can grind through for example hammer mill.
Then, this mixed-powder is weighed, and be distributed to suitable vessel for example the bowl in liquid in.This dispersion steps can be carried out in epicyclic mixer.Disperse not restriction of required time, and can depend on for example mixing arrangement of some factors.For example, if use epicyclic mixer to disperse, can need about 15 minutes-about 20 minutes.
The amount of this powder and liquid is restriction not.The ratio of liquid and amount of powder can decide according to the suitability.If amount of liquid is too high, the slurry that is then obtained can perhaps drip in ensuing forming step in overflow from container, perhaps after final drying steps, can shrink too much.On the other hand, if amount of liquid is low excessively, the slurry that is then obtained is not easy molding in ensuing forming step, perhaps after final drying steps, crackle can take place.For example, this powder and liquid can be with 5:1, preferred 3:1 and more preferably the weight of 2:1 recently use.
Randomly, in this dispersion steps process, can outgas.This degassing can for example be carried out through powder is distributed in the liquid in vacuum chamber.The not restriction of required time that outgases, and can depend on the for example pressure in the vacuum chamber of some factors.For example, the degassing can be carried out about 15 minutes-about 20 minutes.Preferably stir this slurry and come the effectively degassing.
Randomly, the above-mentioned blend step that is used for powder before dispersion steps can merge with this dispersion steps.In other words, this powder can be weighed and directly is distributed in the liquid, need not prior blend step (after it can be grinding steps).
(forming step)
In this step, slurry is carried out molding through compression or suction in container.For example, will pour in the container, and slurry compression and/or suction are produced the shape of slurry through the slurry that dispersion steps obtained of front.
As container, can use any container for example dish or dish.Preferably, can be with dish as container.This container can have aperture, and components of cosmetics can not move through this hole, is used to aspirate out this solvent but solvent can move through this hole.
This slurry is poured into the not restriction of pattern in the container.Typically, two kinds of patterns are arranged here, that is, and top injection and back injection (back injection).
Inject according to this top, slurry is inclined to be poured into the container from container top.The top injection is preferred for preparing the cosmetic product with multiple color.In addition, the injection of this top compares with the back injection that more cost is effective, because container need not be used for the complex mechanism of injecting slurry.
According to this back injection, slurry is gone into the container from the container bottom dump.In order to inject, this container bottom typically must have the mechanism that is used for slurry is supplied to container.This back injection is preferred for the mass preparation cosmetic product.In addition, this back injection can be easy to prepare the cosmetic product with complicated shape.With the slurry that is incorporated in the container is through compression and/or suction molding.Preferably, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously.
This compression can by as get off to carry out: for example have planar compression unit through machinery this slurry be compressed in the container.This suction can for example be carried out with the pressure that reduces in the container through vacuum.This compression and suction can be carried out several.Randomly, can apply vibration to this container and/or compression unit.In preferred this slurry the liquid of at least a portion be through compression and suction remove to solidify this slurry.More preferably most liquid is removed from this slurry.
(drying steps)
In this step, the slurry of dry this molding obtains cosmetics.Through drying, remove the solvent that remains in the slurry fully.Baking temperature depends on the Several Factors for example component of cosmetics and the type of solvent for use.For example, this drying can be carried out at about 60 °-100 °.Dry required time also depends on above-mentioned factor.For example, drying was carried out about 1-6 hour.
Used wet method is favourable in the method for preparing of the present invention, because compare with dry method, it can prepare and comprise a large amount of powder and the cosmetics of a spot of binding agent.In addition, this wet method can easily provide the cosmetics with multiple color or irregularly shaped for example star.
On the other hand, should be noted that so-called half wet process, only use little solvent therein, and do not prepare slurry, this is not equal to wet method.In this half wet process, can not remove and desolvate.In addition, a kind of in addition method wherein prepares slurry, but dry before compression, and dry thing fragmentation is compressed, and also is different from this wet method.
Can have slick texture and good anti-drippage property through the prepared cosmetics of method for preparing of the present invention.In addition, the cosmetics prepared through method for preparing of the present invention can have wetness sensation, good spreadability etc.
Through the prepared cosmetics of method for preparing of the present invention preferably form for example powdery foundation cream, compressing powder and the deodorization powder of powder cosmetic product.Concrete, method for preparing of the present invention can be used for preparing the powder cosmetic of the powdery foundation cream form of moulding powder style such as compacting.
Embodiment
The present invention will come more detailed description through embodiment, and still, it should not be interpreted as limitation of the scope of the invention.
Prepared the powder cosmetic composition of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1, it has the following formula shown in the table 1.Numeral in the table 1 is based on the percentage by weight of said composition gross weight.
Table 1
? | Embodiment 1 | Comparative Examples 1 |
The titanium dioxide that lauroyl lysine is handled | 5 | 5 |
The titanium dioxide that polymethyl siloxane is handled | 4 | 4 |
The iron oxide red that the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium is handled | 0.92 | 0.8 |
The iron oxide yellow that the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium is handled | 2.2 | 2.7 |
Non magnetic composite pigment * | 0.68 | - |
The iron oxide black that the stearoyl-glutamic acid disodium is handled | - | 0.48 |
The Muscovitum that the isostearoyl sebacate is handled | 10 | 10 |
Boron nitride | 7.5 | 7.5 |
The sericite that polydimethylsiloxane is handled | 56.38 | 56.2 |
Antiseptic | 0.72 | 0.72 |
Polydimethylsiloxane | 6.5 | 6.5 |
Elastomer silicone powder (KSP100 is from Shin ETSU) | 5 | 5 |
Grillocin P 176 | 1 | 1 |
Tocopherol acetas | 0.1 | 0.1 |
*=and synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the mixture of blue aluminum color lake (CI42090) of FD&C and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (weight ratio 58.1/40.7/1.2 separately).
The method of powder cosmetic composition that is used to prepare embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 is following.
(1) dried powder preparation
With raw material weigh and through the chopping blender mix.This mixture is ground through hammer mill.
(2) pulp preparation
The dried powder that 50g obtained is joined in the rustless steel bowl.The 28g light liquid isoparaffin is added, and with rubber scraper manual mixing.
(3) wet method
The slurry that is obtained is poured in the metal dish.This slurry is carried out two seconds servo pressurization through suction under 445 KPa (100 kgf).This step triplicate.Residual powder in the metal dish 70 ℃ of dryings 6 hours, is obtained the powder cosmetic of moulding powder bodily form formula.
As get off to estimate the powder cosmetic composition that embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 are obtained.
(A) visual valuation
Powder cosmetic composition to embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 is taken a picture, and contrast each other.The surface of embodiment 1 is uniformly, and to compare with embodiment 1 be uneven on the surface of Comparative Examples 1.This photo is illustrated among Fig. 1.
(B) colour-difference estimates 1
The surface color of the embodiment 1 of mixture after being right after compression of the embodiment 1 that will be obtained through the preparation of top (1) dried powder is measured through Konica-Minolta CR-200 colorimeter, and with top (3) wet method after the surface color comparison of embodiment 1.Comparative Examples 1 is repeated identical program.The result is illustrated in the table 2.
Table 2
In table 2, " doing " row is right after compression surface color and " wetting " afterwards corresponding to the mixture that is obtained through top (1) dried powder preparation and goes corresponding to the surface color after top (3) wet method.
For the surface color difference between " doing " and " wetting ", embodiment 1 is less than Comparative Examples 1 obviously.Therefore, for the surface color of control final products, embodiment 1 is easier than Comparative Examples 1.This difference that shows surface color can be that the iron oxide black of magnetic paint suppresses through not using.
(C) color distortion estimates 2
The part of embodiment 1 powder cosmetic composition is taken off from the said composition surface, measure this surface color through Konica-Minolta CR-200 colorimeter subsequently.This step is repeated 100 times, and definite change color.Comparative Examples 1 is repeated identical program.The result is illustrated among table 3 and Fig. 2.
Table 3
In table 3, " 0 " row L*, C* and h corresponding to the surface color after top being right after (3) wet method (row referring to table 2 " wets ").
Compare with Comparative Examples 1 obviously, the surface color of the powder cosmetic composition of embodiment 1 and the difference of internal color are littler.Therefore, for the color of control final products, embodiment 1 is easier than Comparative Examples 1.This difference that shows surface and the change color between the inside of powder cosmetic composition can be that the iron oxide black of magnetic paint suppresses through not using.
(D) evaluation of effect of magnetic influence
Be right after after superincumbent (2) pulp preparation, compared of the performance of the slurry of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 Magnet.
Superincumbent (2) pulp preparation (it is on plastic plate, but not carries out on the rustless steel bowl) is taken a picture to the slurry of embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 in the time of 3 minutes afterwards.This photo is illustrated in the top row of Fig. 3.
Swiped with Magnet in the bottom (it stores slurry) of this plastic plate, and take a picture.This photo is illustrated in the middle line of Fig. 3.
Next, this slurry is mixed with the rubber scraper again, and to its photograph.This photo is illustrated in the bottom row of Fig. 3.
As shown in Figure 3, after being right after and after the Magnet scraping, mix again in the Comparative Examples 1 afterwards, shown black line and light vestige (pale marks) with the rubber scraper with the Magnet scraping.This shows it is that the iron oxide black of magnetic paint is magnetized and assembles as black line, perhaps gathers the plastic plate bottom, and it has produced light vestige from the teeth outwards.
Black line and light vestige are not present on the surface of embodiment 1 obviously.Therefore, the color control ratio Comparative Examples 1 of the final products of embodiment 1 is easier.This shows that uniform color can be the iron oxide black of magnetic paint through not using; And through using non-magnetic pigment to obtain; This non-magnetic pigment for example is a composite pigment, and it comprises the mixture of synthesis of titanium dioxide (CI77891), the blue aluminum color lake (CI42090) of FD&C and polymethyl hydrogen siloxane (weight ratio 58.1/40.7/1.2 separately).
Two kinds of compositionss (embodiments of the invention 1 and Comparative Examples 1) are by 6 skippies' test group; Estimate through contrast test (half face): compare with the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1; The cosmetics of embodiment 1 provide gloss texture and the better dressing effect of ability to below: hide the colour of skin, cover skin pattern defective for example skin pore, cover colour of skin defective, and have glossy appearance.
Claims (16)
1. the powder cosmetic composition of moulding powder bodily form formula, it comprises the powdery phase, and this powdery comprises mutually:
(a) be 45 weight % or the higher at least a following filler that is selected from respect to the said composition gross weight: have 10 or more filler, silicon dioxide microsphere, microporous polymer microsphere, polyurethane powder, polymer microcapsule, the elastomeric cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane powder of high-aspect-ratio;
(b) at least a non-magnetic pigment; With
(c) randomly at least a magnetic-particle,
Wherein
When this magnetic-particle was present in this powder cosmetic composition, the ratio of this non-magnetic pigment/this magnetic-particle was 1 or higher.
2. according to the powder cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein this filler is selected from natural mica, synthetic mica, sericite, elastomeric cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane powder and composition thereof.
3. according to the powder cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein this magnetic-particle comprises iron oxide black.
4. according to each powder cosmetic composition among the claim 1-3, wherein this non-magnetic pigment comprises the composite pigment that contains inorganic core, and this inorganic core applies with at least a organic or inorganic coloring material at least in part.
5. according to the powder cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein this composite pigment comprises at least a binding agent, is used for that organic or inorganic coloring material is fixed to this inorganic core with this.
6. according to each powder cosmetic composition among the claim 1-5, wherein this non-magnetic pigment and randomly the total amount of this magnetic-particle be, with respect to the gross weight 0.1-25 weight % of this powder cosmetic composition.
7. according to each powder cosmetic composition among the claim 1-6, wherein the total amount of this powdery phase is the gross weight 80-95 weight % with respect to this powder cosmetic composition.
8. according to each powder cosmetic composition among the claim 1-7, wherein the amount of this filler is with respect to the gross weight 60 weight % of this powder cosmetic composition or higher.
9. prepare the method for cosmetics, it may further comprise the steps:
At least the powder that will comprise at least a non-magnetic pigment is dispersed in the liquid to obtain slurry;
Perhaps aspirate the molding in container of this slurry through compression; With
The slurry of dry this molding,
It is characterized in that this powder does not comprise magnetic-particle, perhaps when this powder comprises magnetic-particle, the amount of this magnetic-particle makes that the ratio of non-magnetic pigment/magnetic-particle is 1 or higher in these cosmetics.
10. according to the method for claim 9, wherein this liquid of at least a portion is to remove in the forming step.
11. according to the method for claim 9 or 10, wherein this powdery does not comprise magnetic-particle mutually.
12. according to each method among the claim 9-11, wherein this magnetic-particle comprises iron oxide black.
13. according to each method among the claim 9-12; Wherein this non-magnetic pigment comprises the composite pigment that contains inorganic core; This inorganic core applies at least in part and is used for at least a organic or inorganic coloring material and at least a that organic or inorganic coloring material is fixed to the binding agent on this inorganic core with this.
14. according to each method among the claim 9-13, wherein this non-magnetic pigment and randomly this magnetic-particle total amount be, with respect to the gross weight 0.1-25 weight % of these cosmetics.
15. according to each method among the claim 9-14, wherein the total amount of this powder is with respect to this cosmetics gross weight 80-95 weight %.
16. cosmetics, it is to obtain through each method among the claim 9-15.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
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PCT/JP2009/061143 WO2010143314A1 (en) | 2009-06-12 | 2009-06-12 | Cosmetic and preparation process thereof |
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JP (1) | JP2012529424A (en) |
CN (1) | CN102802591A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2010143314A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
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CN109562052A (en) * | 2016-09-07 | 2019-04-02 | 株式会社 Lg 生活健康 | The color cosmetic composition of stickiness and stretchability is improved simultaneously |
CN111107908A (en) * | 2017-10-02 | 2020-05-05 | 莱雅公司 | Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR2985422B1 (en) * | 2012-01-10 | 2014-08-08 | Oreal | MAGNETIC SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH MAGNETIC EFFECTS |
KR102672917B1 (en) * | 2018-08-27 | 2024-06-07 | 벤티세이디에치 에스.알.엘. | Cosmetic composition comprising color changeable capsule |
CN110373045B (en) * | 2019-07-23 | 2023-11-10 | 孚美科(绍兴)染料科技有限公司 | Disperse turquoise blue S-GB200% dye composition and application thereof |
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JP2006169207A (en) * | 2004-12-20 | 2006-06-29 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Solid powder cosmetic |
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JP3675564B2 (en) * | 1996-03-19 | 2005-07-27 | 株式会社資生堂 | Solid powder makeup cosmetics |
US5928658A (en) * | 1997-12-05 | 1999-07-27 | U.S. Cosmetics | Oil-free wax-free solid cosmetic composition |
JP2000191424A (en) * | 1998-12-24 | 2000-07-11 | Kose Corp | Powdery solid cosmetic |
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JP2006199644A (en) * | 2005-01-21 | 2006-08-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Powder cosmetic |
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WO2009095808A1 (en) * | 2008-01-30 | 2009-08-06 | L'oreal | A cosmetic composition |
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- 2009-06-12 WO PCT/JP2009/061143 patent/WO2010143314A1/en active Application Filing
- 2009-06-12 JP JP2011552257A patent/JP2012529424A/en active Pending
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JP2006169207A (en) * | 2004-12-20 | 2006-06-29 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Solid powder cosmetic |
JP2006199645A (en) * | 2005-01-21 | 2006-08-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Powder cosmetic |
JP2008273880A (en) * | 2007-04-27 | 2008-11-13 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Ultraviolet screening resin, resin powder and cosmetic |
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CN109562052A (en) * | 2016-09-07 | 2019-04-02 | 株式会社 Lg 生活健康 | The color cosmetic composition of stickiness and stretchability is improved simultaneously |
CN109562052B (en) * | 2016-09-07 | 2022-08-26 | 株式会社 Lg 生活健康 | Color cosmetic composition with improved fit and spreading properties |
CN111107908A (en) * | 2017-10-02 | 2020-05-05 | 莱雅公司 | Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds |
CN111107908B (en) * | 2017-10-02 | 2022-10-04 | 莱雅公司 | Compositions comprising ellagic acid compounds |
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WO2010143314A1 (en) | 2010-12-16 |
JP2012529424A (en) | 2012-11-22 |
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