JP4792225B2 - Solid powder cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic comprising (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl and a liquid oil, and more specifically, it is excellent in the use of props such as sponges and mats when used. The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic that is lightly spread, excellent in makeup sustainability, and excellent in impact resistance due to improved moldability.

Solid powder cosmetics are cosmetics that are filled and molded into a dish-shaped container and are usually mounted in a compact container, and because of their good portability, they are commonly used in makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows. It is. Such solid powder cosmetics generally have a dish-like shape made of a metal or resin such as aluminum or the like, in which a cosmetic composition is dispersed by adding an oil agent to a powder system composed of a color pigment, an extender pigment, a glitter pigment, and the like. The container is filled and molded.

And since solid powder cosmetics are often carried in handbags etc., if the impact resistance of the molding is poor, the molding will crack or collapse, so the level of impact resistance guaranteed Must be. In addition, since solid powder cosmetics are used by scraping the surface of the molded product with a prop and applying it to the skin, the feeling of use of the prop and the feeling of application to the skin is an important quality of the product. ing.

For this reason, various techniques for increasing the impact resistance of solid powder cosmetics have been studied. For example, a technology that uses powdered wax such as Fischer-Tropsch wax as a binder between powders (
For example, see Patent Document 1. ), A technique using a metal soap powder such as magnesium stearate (see, for example, Patent Document 2), and the like.

JP-A-4-18011 (page 1 to page 11) JP 2000-169342 A (pages 1 to 8)

However, the powdery waxes and metal soap powders described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 as binders have high adhesion to the skin, so that the spread of the spread may be heavy (poor) during cosmetic application.

For this reason, there has been a demand for the development of a solid powder cosmetic that is excellent in the use of props such as sponges and mats during use, has a light stretch spread, has excellent makeup sustainability, and has excellent impact resistance.

In view of this situation, as a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have obtained a solid powder cosmetic that solves the above problems by using (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl as a binder between powders. The present invention was completed. Also, by using a gel of (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl and liquid oil as a binder, it is excellent in impact resistance, and when used it is a solid that spreads easily into props such as sponges and mats and is lightly spread The present inventors have found that a powder cosmetic can be obtained and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is a solid powder cosmetic obtained by blending a powder with a binder and compression-molding it into a solid to bind the powders together, wherein the binder comprises the following components (a) and (b) );
(A) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl (b) liquid oil
The blending amount of the powder is 60 to 98.95% by mass, the blending amount of the component (a) is 0.05 to 5% by mass, and the blending amount of the component (b) is 1 to 20% by mass. A solid powder cosmetic characterized by the above is provided.

Moreover, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of the said component (a) is 0.1-3 mass%, and the compounding quantity of the said component (b) is 3-15 mass%.

And the said component (a) and the said component (b) provide the said solid powder cosmetics characterized by forming the gel. Further, the present invention provides the solid powder cosmetic, wherein “the amount of component (a)” / “the amount of component (b)” is in the range of 0.01 to 5.

The solid powder cosmetic of the present invention has good adhesion to props such as sponges and mats when used,
Lightly spread, excellent makeup sustainability, and excellent impact resistance.

The component (a) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl used in the present invention comprises the component (
It is a component that is compatible with the liquid oil b), increases the bonding force between the powders, and improves the moldability. Such (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl is an oligomer ester of behenic acid and eicosanedioic acid and glycerin represented by the following general formula (1). As a commercially available product, NOMCOAT HK-G (Nisshin) For example, a product made by Eulio Co., Ltd. can be used.

Although the compounding quantity of the component (a) in the solid powder cosmetic of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.05
To 5% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”) is preferable, and 0.1 to 3% is more preferable. If component (a) is blended in this range, a solid powder cosmetic with excellent impact resistance and lighter spread can be obtained.

The liquid oil of component (b) used in the present invention is a component that increases the bonding force between powders and improves moldability when used together with component (a). Such a liquid oil is an oil that exhibits a liquid state at 25 ° C., and any oil such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, etc. can be used as long as it is a liquid oil used in ordinary cosmetics. Examples include hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives, and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, α-olefin oligomer, squalane, polyisobutylene and polybutene, oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, mink oil and macadamian nut oil, and malic acid diacid Isostearyl, cetyl isooctanoate,
Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), Esters such as glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri (capryle / caprin), propylene glycol dicaprate, glyceryl tricaprate, jojoba oil, fatty acids such as isotearic acid and oleic acid, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol Higher alcohols such as low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, high polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethy Silicone oils such as cyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkoxy-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, perfluoropolyether, etc. And lanolin derivatives such as lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, and the like, and one or more of these can be used.

In the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention, when hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin and squalane are selected as the component (b), a good gel is formed with the component (a), so that the binding force between the powders By further increasing the moldability, the moldability is further improved.

Although the compounding quantity of the component (b) in the solid powder cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 1-2
0% is preferable, and 3 to 15% is more preferable. If the component (b) is blended in this range, a solid powder cosmetic material that is more excellent in propelling and superior in impact resistance can be obtained.

In the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferable to form a gel with the component (a) and the component (b) because a solid powder cosmetic having more excellent impact resistance can be obtained. In order to form a good gel with the component (a) and the component (b), the blending amount of [component (a)] / [mixing amount of component (b)] = 0.01-5 is adjusted. It is preferable to do. In the present invention, gel formation refers to a solution in which component (a) and component (b) are dissolved at 65 ° C., filled in a metal pan (thickness 5 mm), cooled to 25 ° C. When the degree is measured, the value is 1 or more.
(Measurement method of penetration)
Rheometer (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
Plunger diameter: 10mmΦ Ascent speed: 6cm / min Approach distance: 1mm Sensitivity: 200

In addition to the above components, powder is essential for the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention. If such a powder is a powder used in ordinary cosmetics, the shape of a sphere, plate, needle, etc., the particle size of fumes, fine particles, pigment grade, etc., porous, nonporous, etc. The particle structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, and composite powders. Specifically, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silica, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, water Inorganic powders such as chromium oxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, Bright powders such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment coated mica titanium, aluminum powder, nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylonitrile-methacrylic Acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powder, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose powder, N -Organic powders such as acyl lysine powder, pigment powders such as organic tar pigments, lake pigments of organic dyes, fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide Examples thereof include composite powders such as containing silica and zinc oxide-containing silica, and one or more of these can be used. In addition, the compounding quantity of these powders in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 60 to 98.95%.

In addition to the above components, the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention includes components used in normal cosmetics, such as solid oil, semi-solid oil, surfactant, oil gelling agent other than component (a), Aqueous components, ultraviolet absorbers, water-soluble polymers, film-forming agents, paraoxybenzoic acid derivatives, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, vitamins, cosmetic ingredients, fragrances, and the like may be appropriately blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. it can.

Examples of the solid oil and semi-solid oil that can be blended in the present invention include synthetic hydrocarbons, natural and synthetic waxes, hardened oils, higher fatty acids, and higher alcohols. Specifically, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, mole, gay wax, dirow, montan wax, stearyl modified methyl Silicone wax such as polysiloxane, behenyl-modified methylpolysiloxane, petrolatum, dipentaerythritol fatty acid (12-hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid, rosin acid) ester, cholesteryl hydroxystearate,
Hardened oil etc. are mentioned, These can be used 1 type, or 2 or more types.

The surfactant that can be blended in the present invention is used for the purpose of a wetting agent, a feel control agent, etc., and is glycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, propylene glycol Fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, sorbitol fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones, polyoxyalkylene alkyl co-modified silicones, etc. Nonionic surfactants of
Alkylbenzene sulfate, alkyl sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, dialkyl sulfosuccinate, α-sulfonated fatty acid salt, acylmethyl taurate, N-methyl-N-alkyl taurate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate Anion such as polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether sulfate, alkyl phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether phosphate, N-acyl amino acid salt, N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acid salt Surfactants, alkylamine salts, polyamine and alkanolamine fatty acid derivatives, alkylammonium salts,
Cationic surfactants such as alicyclic ammonium salts, lecithin, N, N-dimethyl-N-
Examples include amphoteric surfactants such as alkyl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, and one or more of these can be used.

As the oil gelling agent other than the component (a) that can be blended in the present invention, any oil gelling agent may be used as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, hydroxystearin Examples thereof include acids, calcium stearate, and partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers, and one or more of these can be used.

The aqueous component that can be blended in the present invention is water and a component that is soluble in water, and any component that can be used in ordinary cosmetics, such as water, propylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol. , Polyhydric alcohols such as dipropylene glycol, glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, aloe vera, hammamels, cucumber, lemon,
Plant extracts such as lavender and rose can be mentioned, and one or more of these can be used.

Any ultraviolet absorber that can be blended in the present invention may be used as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, 2-methoxyhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-
Benzophenone series such as methoxybenzophenone, 2,4,6-trianilino-para- (carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, salicylic acid-
Salicylic acid series such as 2-ethylhexyl, P such as ethyl paradihydroxypropyl benzoate
ABA, dibenzoylmethane such as 4-tert-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and the like can be used, and one or more of these can be used.

The water-soluble polymer that can be blended in the present invention is blended for the purpose of improving touch.
Specifically, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, natural alginate, carrageenan, quince seed gum, agar, gelatin, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, pectin, gellan gum, etc. Synthetic polymers such as polymers, polyvinyl alcohol, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-added carboxyvinyl polymer, polysodium methacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone, etc. are used, and one or more of these are used. be able to.

The production method of the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, the component (a) and the component (b) are heated and dissolved at 65 ° C. or more, and this is uniformly dispersed in the powder. The method etc. which shape | mold into containers, such as a resin dish, are mentioned. As a molding method, after adding a solvent such as light isoparaffin to a cosmetic composition containing a compression molding method (press molding method), components (a) to (b) and powder, and filling the container Any method such as a method of removing the solvent by drying (wet molding method) may be used, but the effect of the present invention is remarkable in the solid powder cosmetic obtained by the press molding method.

Examples of the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention include makeup cosmetics such as foundation, white powder, blusher, lipstick, eye shadow, eyebrow and concealer, and skin care cosmetics such as body powder.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.
Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Cake-like foundations Foundations having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following production methods, and “removed to a mat”, “elongation spread during application”, “impact resistance” Each item of “sex” was evaluated and determined by the following evaluation method and criteria, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 together.

(Production method)
A: Components 12 to 18 are heated to 65 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 1 to 11 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.).
C: A and component 19 are added to B and mixed.
D: C is pulverized.
E: D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a cake-like foundation.

[Evaluation method 1: “Removal to mat”, “Elongation and spread during application”]
20 panelists specializing in cosmetics evaluation use the foundations of the above examples and comparative examples, and for each item of “Removal to mat” and “Elongation at application”, each one according to the following evaluation criteria Five-point evaluation was performed, and a score was assigned to each foundation. Further, the average score of all panels was determined according to the following criteria.
Evaluation criteria:
[Evaluation Result]: [Score]
Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Somewhat bad: 2 points Bad: 1 point Criteria:
[Average score]: [Judgment]
4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

[Evaluation Method 2: Impact Resistance]
Prepare 5 foundations for each of the examples and comparative examples, and in the state filled in the metal pan, let it fall freely on the acrylic plate from the height of 50 cm in the upright direction, and observe the surface state after dropping, Each foundation was scored according to the following evaluation criteria, and an average score of n = 5 scores was calculated and judged according to the following four criteria.
Evaluation criteria [Contents]: [Score]
No change: 4
There is a slight crack,
No problem with usability: 3
Cracks and gaps: 2
There are large cracks and gaps: 1
Criteria [average score of n = 5]: [judgment]
3.5 or more: ◎
3.0 or more to less than 3.5: ○
2.0 or more and less than 3.0: △
Less than 2.0: ×

As is clear from the results in Tables 1 and 2, the cake-like foundations of Examples 1 to 7 which are the products of the present invention are “removable to mat”, “elongation and spread during application”, and “impact resistance”. It was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all items. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 containing Fischer-Tropsch wax powder, which is a binder described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 listed as background art instead of the component (a), “Removal to mat”, “ “Elongation at coating” was not good. Similarly, in Comparative Example 3 in which magnesium stearate powder was blended as a binder, “impact resistance” was not good. Further, in Comparative Example 4 in which paste oil having high adhesion was blended and the blending amount of the oil was increased, “removal to mat” and “elongation spread during application” were not good.

Example 8: Cake-like white powder (component) (%)
1. Mica 20
2. 3. remaining amount of talc Spherical urethane powder (average particle size 6μm) 5
4). Mica titanium 10
5. Red 226 0.5
6). Ultramarine 0.2
7). Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.2
8). (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl (Note 1) 0.5
9. Squalane 1
10. Glyceryl trioctanoate 0.5
11. Perfume appropriate amount (production method)
A: Components 8 to 10 are heated to 65 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 1 to 7 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.).
C: A and component 11 are added to B and mixed.
D: C is pulverized.
E: D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a cake-like white powder.

The cake-like white powder of Example 8 was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all the items of “puff-to-puff”, “elongation at application”, and “impact resistance”.

Example 9: Cake-like eye shadow (ingredient) (%)
1. Mica remaining amount Talc 20
3. Mica titanium 5
4). Boron nitride 5
5. Silicone powder (Note 4) 3
6). Ultramarine 2
7). Yellow 401 0.5
8). Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.2
9. (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl (Note 1) 2
10. Squalane 2
11. Vaseline 1
12 Dimethylpolysiloxane 3
13. Perfume appropriate amount * Note 4: KSP101 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components 9 to 12 are heated to 65 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 1-8 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.).
C: A and component 13 are added to B and mixed.
D: C is pulverized.
E: D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a cake-like eye shadow.

The cake-shaped eye shadow of Example 9 is “chip removal”, “elongation spread during application”,
It was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all items of “impact resistance”.

Example 10: Cake-like foundation (component) (%)
1. The remaining amount of talc Mica 20
3. Mica titanium 5
4). Titanium oxide 13
5. Bengala 0.8
6). Yellow iron oxide 2.5
7). Black iron oxide 0.3
8). Spherical polymethyl methacrylate (Note 5) 5
9. Spherical porous silica (Note 6) 5
10. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.2
11. (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl (Note 1) 4
12 Perfluoropolyether (Note 7) 3
13. Dimethylpolysiloxane (Note 8) 2
14 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 7
15. Oxybenzone 0.5
16. Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) sorbitan monooleate 0.5
17. Perfume appropriate amount * Note 5: Matsumoto Microsphere M101 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
* Note 6: Silica microbead P-1505 (Catalyst Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* Note 7: Fomblin HC / 04 (Ausumont)
* Note 8: Silicon KF96 (1000cs) (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components 11 to 16 are heated to 65 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 1 to 10 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.).
C: A and component 17 are added to B and mixed.
D: C is pulverized.
E: D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a cake-like foundation.

The cake-like foundation of Example 10 was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all items of “removal to mat”, “expansion spread when applied”, and “impact resistance”.

Reference Example 1 : Cake-like white powder (component) (%)
1. Talc 10
2. 2. Sericite remaining amount Boron nitride 3
4). Nylon powder 2
5. Synthetic gold mica 5
6). Mica titanium (Note 9) 20
7). Bengala coated mica titanium 10
8). Yellow iron oxide 0.5
9. Ultramarine 0.2
10. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.2
11. Vaseline 3
12 Squalane 2
13. (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl (Note 1) 1
14 Methylphenyl polysiloxane (Note 10) 1
15. Polybutene (Note 11) 0.5
16. Liquid paraffin 2
17. Perfume appropriate amount * Note 9: FLAMENCO RED 420C (manufactured by Engelhard)
* Note 10: Silicon KF56 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* Note 11: Polybutene 35R (Idemitsu Petrochemical Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components 11 to 16 are heated to 65 ° C. and mixed.
B: Components 1 to 10 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Mining Co., Ltd.).
C: A and component 17 are added to B and mixed.
D: C is pulverized.
E: To 100 parts by mass of D, 60 parts by mass of light liquid isoparaffin having a boiling point of 120 to 150 ° C. is added and dispersed uniformly to obtain a slurry.
A slurry of F: E was filled in a metal pan and dried at 70 ° C. for 24 hours to obtain a cake-like white powder.

The cake-like white powder of Reference Example 1 was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all items of “removal to mat”, “expansion and spread at application”, and “impact resistance”.

Claims (3)

A solid powder cosmetic comprising a powder mixed with a binder, and compression-molded into a solid and bonded to each other, wherein the binder comprises the following components (a) and (b):
(A) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl (b) liquid oil
The blending amount of the powder is 60 to 98.95% by mass, the blending amount of the component (a) is 0.05 to 5% by mass, and the blending amount of the component (b) is 1 to 20% by mass. Solid powder cosmetic characterized by The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (a) and the component (b) form a gel. The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein "the amount of component (a)" / "the amount of component (b)" is in the range of 0.01 to 5.