CN111053703B - 用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物 - Google Patents
用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111053703B CN111053703B CN201911423391.7A CN201911423391A CN111053703B CN 111053703 B CN111053703 B CN 111053703B CN 201911423391 A CN201911423391 A CN 201911423391A CN 111053703 B CN111053703 B CN 111053703B
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Abstract
本发明属于婴幼儿护肤品领域，具体涉及一种用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物。所述护肤组合物中包括神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇、D‑泛醇、透明质酸钠、太阳花籽油、月见草籽油等成分。将神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇和D‑泛醇四者以一定的比例复配，并根据不同婴幼儿年龄段皮肤发展成熟的特点来调整上述成分在婴幼儿护肤组合物中的含量比例，可以得到精准设计的分段健脂护肤成分配方，以达到协同增效的婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于婴幼儿护肤品领域，具体涉及一种用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物。
背景技术
皮肤是人体的第一道防线，具有十分重要的屏障功能。同人体其他器官一样，幼年时期的皮肤发育尚不完善。尤其是婴幼儿皮肤结构与成人存在很大差异，婴幼儿时期的皮肤敏感性要远高于成年人，极易受到外界环境变化的影响。每逢冬春交替之时，气候乍暖还寒，忽冷忽热，变化无常，此时宝宝的肌肤较容易出现发红、粗糙、肌肤皲裂、起皮、瘙痒等一系列敏感问题，家长们常因无法找到有效的肌肤护理产品而感到头疼。婴幼儿所面临的肌肤问题看似相同，但伴随着婴幼儿肌肤单层细胞与胶原纤维的发育，每位宝宝不同成长阶段的体质、肤况皆不同,其肌肤需求也大有差别。医学研究证实，初生婴儿皮肤仅为成人的三分之二厚度，更需要针对皮肤薄、易敏感特质的医学呵护。正如婴幼儿奶粉需要分段，伴随婴幼儿肌肤单层细胞与胶原纤维的发育，宝宝的肌肤也需要分阶段护理。新生儿皮肤比较薄嫩，角质层尚未发育成熟，需要足够的睡眠时间；婴幼儿正处于发育阶段，皮肤娇嫩易敏感，对任何事物都充满好奇，精力充沛又活泼好动，在成人的照顾下开展户外活动，外界影响逐渐加大，因此需要更专业的呵护。
目前市场上婴幼儿护肤产品主要以隔离、保湿、滋润等功效为主，但是缺乏能够真正改善皮肤屏障功效的产品。婴幼儿自身无法产生油脂，不同年龄段的婴幼儿皮肤组成也存在差异，因此针对不同婴幼儿年龄段皮肤发展成熟的特点，开发设计分段健脂护肤配方的婴幼儿护肤产品具有现实意义和广阔的市场前景。
发明内容
本发明涉及一种针对不同婴幼儿年龄段皮肤发展成熟的特点而精准设计的分段健脂护肤成分配方：对于新生儿（0-28天）基于胎酯模型而设计，对于婴幼儿（1-36个月）基于皮肤屏障守护而设计，通过核心成分的不同配比，体现出分段健脂的科学性。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采用的技术方案是：
一种用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物，适用于0-28天的新生儿，所述护肤组合物中包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺0.05-6份，植物鞘氨醇0.1-5份，胆固醇0.5-4份，D-泛醇0.2-5份，透明质酸钠0.1-4份，太阳花籽油0.1-6份，月见草籽油0.1-6份，维生素E 0.1-4份，甘油0.1-12份、牛油果树果脂油0.1-20份、乳化剂0.1-10份和去离子水40-60份。
优选地，所述护肤组合物包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺0.1-5份，植物鞘氨醇0.5-5份，胆固醇1-3份，D-泛醇0.5-4份，透明质酸钠0.1-3份，太阳花籽油0.3-5份，月见草籽油0.2-5份，维生素E 0.2-3份，甘油0.5-10份、牛油果树果脂油1-16份、乳化剂0.5-6份和去离子水45-55份。
优选地，所述护肤组合物包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺4份，植物鞘氨醇2份，胆固醇2份，D-泛醇2份，透明质酸钠2份，太阳花籽油5份，月见草籽油4份，维生素E 3份，甘油3份、牛油果树果脂油6份、乳化剂2份和去离子水50份。
一种用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物，适用于1-36个月的婴幼儿，所述护肤组合物中包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺2-4份，植物鞘氨醇2-6份，胆固醇4-6份，D-泛醇2-4份，透明质酸钠2-4份，太阳花籽油0.1-6份，月见草籽油0.1-6份，维生素E2-4份，甘油6-12份、牛油果树果脂油1-12份、乳化剂0.5-4份和去离子水30-40份。
优选地，所述护肤组合物包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺2.5-3.5份，植物鞘氨醇3-5份，胆固醇4.5-5.5份，D-泛醇2.5-3.5份，透明质酸钠3-4份，太阳花籽油0.5-6份，月见草籽油0.2-5份，维生素E 3-4份，甘油7-9份、牛油果树果脂油2-11份、乳化剂1-3份和去离子水32-36份。
优选地，所述护肤组合物包括如下重量份的成分：神经酰胺3份，植物鞘氨醇4份，胆固醇5份，D-泛醇3份，透明质酸钠3份，太阳花籽油4份，月见草籽油4份，维生素E 3份，甘油8份、牛油果树果脂油5份、乳化剂2份和去离子水35份。
进一步地，本发明还提供了用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物在制备婴幼儿护肤品中的应用。
进一步地，本发明还提供了一种婴幼儿护肤品，由所述的护肤组合物和相应辅料制备而成。
优选地，所述婴幼儿护肤品选自护肤水，润肤露，润肤霜，护臀软膏，按摩油，隔离护理露，热痱粉，爽身露，爽身粉，润唇膏，湿纸巾，洗发露，沐浴露，洗发沐浴露，洗手液中的任意一种。中的任意一种。
优选地，所述护肤组合物在婴幼儿护肤品中的质量百分含量为2-50%。
胎脂是一种富含脂质的天然的皮肤保护剂，主要由81%的水、10%的蛋白质和9%的脂质组成。天然胎脂蛋白质由源自表皮的蛋白质(主要是角蛋白和聚角蛋白微丝蛋白)、微量(微摩尔至毫摩尔浓度)的调节蛋白质(如表皮生长因子)和微量(微摩尔至毫摩尔浓度)的表面活性物质蛋白(如表面活性物质相关蛋白A和表面活性物质相关蛋白B)组成。胎脂不仅对皮肤有保护作用，还有修复作用，有助于新生儿维持皮肤水平衡、保持皮肤温度，帮助皮肤维持正常的皮肤水分活度，对受损皮肤、干燥皮肤有益，对皮肤屏障的形成有很大帮助。
角质层脂质（即屏障脂质）的主要组成为：神经酰胺、游离脂肪酸、胆固醇、植物鞘氨醇和胆固醇硫酸盐。已有文献资料证明，配方中添加一定比例的胆固醇，神经酰胺，游离脂肪酸对特应性皮炎等皮肤疾病有良好的治疗效果。此外有研究表明，使用含有屏障脂质相同的保湿霜，可以明显增强皮肤水分，改善皮肤屏障功能。不同年龄段的儿童，皮肤中含有的屏障脂质的量不同，这也为“分段护理”提供了良好的科学依据。
D-泛醇的分子量比较小，非常容易被皮肤吸收。D-泛醇接触到皮肤后，会快速的转化为泛酸，泛酸有助于皮肤所需结构蛋白的生成，如胶原蛋白。从而使皮肤细胞繁殖更快，并帮助这些细胞跨越伤口屏障，帮助形成新的皮肤层。另外泛醇渗透到皮肤中，可以迅速在皮肤上形成保湿薄膜，从而帮助皮肤保持水分，激活一部分的受损细胞。
太阳花籽油中富含不饱和脂肪酸，其中包含59%的亚油酸，30%的油酸，6%的硬脂酸和5%的棕榈酸，同时，太阳花籽油中也富含天然维生素E，植物甾醇类和角鲨烯和其它微量矿物质元素。研究表明，太阳花籽油中的脂肪酸因亲肤性好，容易在皮肤表面形成一层保护膜，减少角质层水分流失，从而提高皮肤角质层的水合程度，帮助皮肤保持良好的天然屏障功能。另外由于太阳花籽油中富含亚油酸，对炎症因子具有抑制作用，使其具有一定的抗炎作用。
月见草籽油是天然植物油, 内含饱和脂肪酸和不饱和脂肪酸, 其中油酸、亚油酸、γ- 亚麻酸等高碳脂肪酸含量很高, 对皮肤有柔软弹性感, 其触觉和延展性很好, 而且易被皮肤微血管吸收, 能促进血液循环, 防止表皮细胞角化, 使皮肤保持润滑。月见草籽油的化学结构, 使它在皮肤保护方面具有卓越功效, 是其它油脂难以比拟的。它渗透到皮肤中,与皮肤中酰基鞘氨醇结合, 进行酯化, 形成饱和与不饱和脂肪酸的混合物, 在角质层中, 直接作用于皮肤表皮, 使皮肤内形成防止水分丢失的最好屏障, 可以恢复皮肤正常的屏障功能。
牛油果树果脂油是一种常温下软固体油脂，它的熔点接近皮肤温度，涂抹时易融化，牛油果树果脂油所含的三甘油酯高达80％，不可皂化物约9-13％，具有良好的润肤、消炎、促渗、促进伤口愈合的作用，另外牛油果树果脂油还具有轻微阻断紫外线作用。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：“砖-砂浆”模型最常用于描述皮肤屏障的结构，即角质形成细胞及其内部结构蛋白形成皮肤屏障的“砖”，而皮肤脂质形成“砂浆”，共同保持皮肤屏障的完整性。角质层脂质中，含有神经酰胺、游离脂肪酸、胆固醇、植物鞘氨醇和胆固醇硫酸盐等组分，充满整个角质层细胞间隙。所以，配方中加入一定比例复配的神经酰胺、胆固醇、游离脂肪酸，作为皮肤脂质的有效补充，可以增加婴幼儿皮肤屏障功能。D-泛醇比较容易渗透角质层，有较强的保湿作用，有助于舒缓皮肤不适、瘙痒。通过对比实验发现，将神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇和D-泛醇四者以一定的比例复配，并根据不同婴幼儿年龄段皮肤发展成熟的特点来调整上述成分在婴幼儿护肤组合物中的含量比例，可以得到精准设计的分段健脂护肤成分配方，以达到协同增效的婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护效果。本发明的分段健脂护肤组合物通过各组分间的合理配伍，对不同年龄段的婴幼儿具有良好的皮肤屏障修复作用，使用安全可靠，见效快，具有广阔的市场应用前景。
具体实施方式
下面对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。所使用的材料、试剂等，如无特殊说明，为可从商业途径得到的试剂和材料。
实施例1 护肤组合物的产品配方
表1 用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物的组成（重量份）
实施例2 微生物检验
将配方A、B的护肤组合物样品按照《化妆品安全技术规范(2015版)》的标准进行检测，菌落数<10CFU/g，霉菌和酵母菌总数<10CFU/g，铜绿假单胞菌未检出，耐热大肠菌群未检出，金黄色葡萄球菌未检出，均符合标准要求。
实施例3 皮肤刺激性实验
选取年龄在1-5岁的儿童受试者30名进行斑贴试验，受试者无过敏性皮炎史。将配方A、B的护肤组合物样品约0.025ml涂于斑试器小室中，外用专用胶带贴敷于儿童背部脊柱两侧，24小时后除去斑试器，如有剩余产品用湿润的纸巾轻轻擦去，分别于0.5、24、48小时，按《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015)中皮肤反应分级标准记录其结果。
斑贴测试结果：30名儿童受试者在0.5、24、48小时对配方A、B的护肤组合物样品均未表现任何不良反应，没有出现红斑、烧灼感、瘙痒等症状，说明本发明的护肤组合物对皮肤无刺激，安全性能良好。
实施例4 经表皮失水测试以及皮肤弹性测试
选取皮肤受损的儿科湿疹患儿共30名，年龄分布在1-3岁。随机分为6组，每组5人，分别使用配方A、B和对比配方1-4的护肤组合物。使用CK皮肤测试仪进行皮肤屏障功能检测，将5个人的数据取平均值，分别于涂抹前和涂抹后第2周、第4周在皮疹处进行经皮失水(TEWL值，g/hm2)和皮肤弹性（皮肤弹性值）的检测。实验结果如表2、表3所示。
表2 经皮失水测试(TEWL值，g/hm2)
| 初始 | 第2周 | 第4周 | 第4周与初始相比，经皮水分流失减少程度 | |
| 配方A | 16.25 | 14.35 | 12.28 | 24.4% |
| 对比配方1 | 16.36 | 15.27 | 14.12 | 13.7% |
| 对比配方2 | 16.57 | 15.87 | 14.76 | 10.9% |
| 配方B | 16.38 | 14.12 | 11.87 | 27.5% |
| 对比配方3 | 16.42 | 15.01 | 14.11 | 14.1% |
| 对比配方4 | 16.23 | 15.13 | 14.58 | 10.2% |
从表2的实验结果可以看出，使用本发明的护肤组合物配方A、B，在4周后可以使经皮水分流失降低24.4%以上，而使用缺少D-泛醇或者神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇的混合物的对比配方1-4，在4周后仅可以使经皮水分流失降低不足15%，二者差异显著。这说明将神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇和D-泛醇以一定的复配比例作用于婴幼儿受损肌肤时，四者会产生协同增效的皮肤屏障修复作用，使得受损的皮肤状态发生明显改善。
表3 皮肤弹性测试（皮肤弹性值）
| 初始 | 第2周 | 第4周 | 皮肤弹性改善率 | |
| 配方A | 15.3 | 18.6 | 21.7 | 41.8% |
| 对比配方1 | 15.1 | 16.4 | 18.1 | 19.9% |
| 对比配方2 | 15.8 | 16.9 | 18.3 | 15.8% |
| 配方B | 14.9 | 15.9 | 20.9 | 40.3% |
| 对比配方3 | 15.2 | 17.1 | 18.5 | 21.7% |
| 对比配方4 | 15.6 | 17.5 | 18.3 | 17.3% |
从表3的实验结果可以看出，使用本发明的护肤组合物配方A、B，在4周后可以使皮肤弹性改善率达到40%以上，而使用缺少D-泛醇或者神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇的混合物的对比配方1-4，在4周后仅可以使皮肤弹性改善率提升20%左右，二者差异显著。这说明将神经酰胺、植物鞘氨醇、胆固醇和D-泛醇以一定的复配比例作用于婴幼儿受损肌肤时，四者会产生协同增效的皮肤屏障修复作用，使得受损的皮肤状态发生明显改善。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以对技术方案做出若干修改或等同替换，这些修改或等同替换也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物，其特征在于，适用于1-3岁的婴幼儿，所述护肤组合物由如下重量份的成分组成：神经酰胺2-4份，植物鞘氨醇2-6份，胆固醇4-6份，D-泛醇2-4份，透明质酸钠2-4份，太阳花籽油0 .1-6份，月见草籽油0 .1-6份，维生素E 2-4份，甘油6-12份、牛油果树果脂油1-12份、乳化剂0 .5-4份和去离子水30-40份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的护肤组合物，其特征在于，由如下重量份的成分组成：神经酰胺2.5-3.5份，植物鞘氨醇3-5份，胆固醇4.5-5.5份，D-泛醇2.5-3.5份，透明质酸钠3-4份，太阳花籽油0.5-6份，月见草籽油0.2-5份，维生素E 3-4份，甘油7-9份、牛油果树果脂油2-11份、乳化剂1-3份和去离子水32-36份。
3.根据权利要求2所述的护肤组合物，其特征在于，由如下重量份的成分组成：神经酰胺3份，植物鞘氨醇4份，胆固醇5份，D-泛醇3份，透明质酸钠3份，太阳花籽油4份，月见草籽油4份，维生素E 3份，甘油8份、牛油果树果脂油5份、乳化剂2份和去离子水35份。
4.权利要求1-3任一项所述的用于婴幼儿皮肤屏障守护的分段健脂护肤组合物在制备婴幼儿护肤品中的应用。
5.一种婴幼儿护肤品，其特征在于，由权利要求1-3任一项所述的护肤组合物和相应辅料制备而成。
6.根据权利要求5所述的婴幼儿护肤品，其特征在于，所述婴幼儿护肤品选自护肤水，润肤露，润肤霜，护臀软膏，按摩油，隔离护理露，热痱粉，爽身露，爽身粉，润唇膏，湿纸巾，洗发露，沐浴露，洗发沐浴露，洗手液中的任意一种。
7.根据权利要求5所述的婴幼儿护肤品，其特征在于，所述护肤组合物在婴幼儿护肤品中的质量百分含量为2-50%。
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