CN110846755B - Production process of cashmere and gold silk smooth woolen cloth - Google Patents
Production process of cashmere and gold silk smooth woolen cloth Download PDFInfo
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- CN110846755B CN110846755B CN201910975695.8A CN201910975695A CN110846755B CN 110846755 B CN110846755 B CN 110846755B CN 201910975695 A CN201910975695 A CN 201910975695A CN 110846755 B CN110846755 B CN 110846755B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/12—Threads containing metallic filaments or strips
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
- D02G3/281—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads using one drawing frame for two slivers and twisting of the slivers to a single yarn, i.e. spin-twisting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/242—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
- D03D15/25—Metal
- D03D15/258—Noble metal
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B9/00—Solvent-treatment of textile materials
- D06B9/04—Successively applying two or more different solvent-based treating materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a production process of cashmere spun gold woolen cloth, which comprises a spinning process, a weaving process and an after-finishing process. According to the production process of the cashmere spun gold smooth woolen, in the process of stranding the blended yarns and the spun gold in the spinning process, the blended yarns are firstly subjected to loose twisting and then are combined and twisted with the spun gold to form double-strand yarns; the thick blended yarn can wrap the thin gold wire, so that the gold wire is not completely exposed outside the double-strand yarn, and then the gold wire presents a hidden and obvious effect on the surface of the gray cloth after the gray cloth is woven; the gold wire is in an incomplete exposure state on the surface of the gray cloth, so that the phenomenon that the gold wire is broken and the broken end is protruded on the surface of the gray cloth when the bur is fluffed on the surface of the gray cloth in the process of fluffing the gray cloth by a follow-up bur machine is avoided; the metal cloth cover effect of the fabric is improved, meanwhile, the burred fuzzing enables the suede of the fabric to be good in uniformity and smooth in surface, and the look and feel of the fabric are improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of woolen fabrics, in particular to a production process of cashmere spun gold woolen cloth.
Background
In recent years, with the improvement of living standard and the pursuit of fashion, fabrics of various styles come out endlessly, and woolen fabrics as high-grade garment fabrics are also developed towards fashionable appearance, high-end grade, personalized style and diversified functions, but woolen fabrics with metallic shining luster and effect are rare, and the production process of the woolen fabrics with special cloth cover effect is not mature.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a production process which is simple and mature in process and can produce better cashmere spun gold woolen cloth with a metal shining surface effect.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is to design a production process of cashmere spun gold woolen, which comprises the following steps:
s1: spinning, namely adding wool mixing oil into cashmere, chinlon and wool to perform wool mixing, and then performing opening, mixing, carding, drawing and roving treatment to prepare blended yarns of 12 Nm; then the blended yarns and 60Nm gold wires are doubled and plied into double-ply yarns through a doubling and plying machine, and in the plying process, the blended yarns are firstly subjected to loose twisting and then are combined and twisted with the gold wires to form the double-ply yarns;
s2: weaving, namely manufacturing the double-strand yarn manufactured in the step S1 into grey cloth on a rapier loom in a single-warp single-weft mode; the gram weight of the gray cloth is 560-2;
S3: and in the post-finishing process, the grey cloth is subjected to blank detection, milling, drying, burrowing, shearing, brushing and drying to prepare a finished cashmere and gold wire smooth woolen product.
According to the production process of the cashmere spun gold smooth woolen, in the process of plying the blended yarns and the spun gold, the blended yarns are firstly subjected to loose twisting and then are combined and twisted with the spun gold to form double-ply yarns; the thick blended yarn can wrap the thin gold wire, so that the gold wire is not completely exposed outside the double-strand yarn, and then the gold wire presents a hidden and obvious effect on the surface of the gray cloth after the gray cloth is woven; the gold wire is in an incomplete exposure state on the surface of the gray cloth, so that the phenomenon that the gold wire is broken and the broken end is protruded on the surface of the gray cloth when the bur is fluffed on the surface of the gray cloth in the process of fluffing the gray cloth by a follow-up bur machine is avoided; the metal cloth cover effect of the fabric is improved, meanwhile, the burred fuzzing enables the suede of the fabric to be good in uniformity and smooth in surface, and the look and feel of the fabric are improved.
The preferred technical scheme is that the raw materials of the gray cloth comprise 3% of gold wire, 5% of cashmere, 8% of chinlon and 84% of Australian wool in percentage by weight.
In a more preferable embodiment, the spinning step of step S1 further includes raising the blended yarn by a raising machine and then plying the resultant yarn with the gold filament. The fuzzing treatment is carried out on the blended yarns firstly, the fiber end parts in the blended yarns are pulled out, the fiber length of the surface of the blended yarns is increased, the spun gold can be better wrapped in the blended yarns, and the phenomenon that the spun gold is broken by pulling in the later-stage fuzzing treatment process is avoided.
The preferable technical scheme is that the fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 6.5-7.5, controlling the fulling time to be 45-55min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 36-40 ℃, rinsing after the fulling treatment is finished, rinsing for 4 times, and keeping the residual rate of the fulling agent below 5%, and then feeding the fulling machine for dehydration treatment. The cashmere fibers can cause fiber damage under strong acid and strong alkali, the pH value of the fulling agent is controlled to be 6.5-7.5, the cashmere fibers are prevented from being damaged under the condition of being nearly neutral, and meanwhile, the fulling time is increased, so that the grey cloth is fulling.
The further preferable technical scheme is that the consumption of the fulling agent is 82-88% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The preferable technical scheme is that the bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein a water tank is arranged at the front end of the bur raising machine, solution containing brightening agent is added into the water tank, the temperature of the solution is 70-80 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 40-50s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the gray cloth is subjected to the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising for 3-4 times and then directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 2-4 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 1-3 h. The gray cloth is subjected to wet fluffing firstly and then is subjected to dry fluffing, so that the fullness of the suede of the gray cloth is improved, the gray cloth is kept stand after fluffing, the brightening agent and the gray cloth are in full contact and reaction, the brightening effect of the fabric is improved, and the shining glossiness of the finished fabric is improved by matching with the metal shining effect of the gold wires.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: the production process of the cashmere spun gold smooth woolen comprises the steps of firstly carrying out loose twisting on blended yarns and then combining and twisting the blended yarns and spun gold in the process of combining the blended yarns and the spun gold to form double-strand yarns; the thick blended yarn can wrap the thin gold wire, so that the gold wire is not completely exposed outside the double-strand yarn, and then the gold wire presents a hidden and obvious effect on the surface of the gray cloth after the gray cloth is woven; the gold wire is in an incomplete exposure state on the surface of the gray cloth, so that the phenomenon that the gold wire is broken and the broken end is protruded on the surface of the gray cloth when the bur is fluffed on the surface of the gray cloth in the process of fluffing the gray cloth by a follow-up bur machine is avoided; the metal cloth cover effect of the fabric is improved, meanwhile, the burred fuzzing enables the suede of the fabric to be good in uniformity and smooth in surface, and the look and feel of the fabric are improved. The pH value of the fulling agent is controlled to be in a neutral condition, so that cashmere fiber damage is avoided, and meanwhile, the fulling time is increased, so that the grey cloth fulling is realized. The gray cloth is subjected to wet fluffing firstly and then is subjected to dry fluffing, so that the fullness of the suede of the gray cloth is improved, the gray cloth is kept stand after fluffing, the brightening agent and the gray cloth are in full contact and reaction, the brightening effect of the fabric is improved, and the shining glossiness of the finished fabric is improved by matching with the metal shining effect of the gold wires.
Detailed Description
The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
Example 1
The invention relates to a production process of cashmere and gold silk down woolen, which comprises the following steps:
s1: spinning, namely adding wool mixing oil into cashmere, chinlon and wool to perform wool mixing, and then performing opening, mixing, carding, drawing and roving treatment to prepare blended yarns of 12 Nm; then the blended yarns and 60Nm gold wires are doubled and plied into double-ply yarns through a doubling and plying machine, in the plying process, the blended yarns are firstly subjected to loose twisting to reduce the twisting coefficient of the blended yarns, then are combined with the gold wires, and then are twisted together into the double-ply yarns;
s2: weaving, namely manufacturing the double-strand yarn manufactured in the step S1 into grey cloth on a rapier loom in a single-warp single-weft mode; the gram weight of the gray cloth is 560g/m2;
S3: and in the post-finishing process, the grey cloth is subjected to blank detection, milling, drying, burrowing, shearing, brushing and drying to prepare a finished cashmere and gold wire smooth woolen product.
The fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 7, controlling the fulling time to be 50min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 38 ℃, rinsing after the fulling treatment is finished for 4 times, keeping the residual rate of the fulling agent below 5%, and then feeding the fulling agent into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment.
The consumption of the fulling agent is 85% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the solution temperature is 75 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 45s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 3 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 2 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 2 h.
The raw materials of the gray cloth comprise 3% of gold wire, 5% of cashmere, 8% of chinlon and 84% of Australian wool in percentage by weight.
Example 2
The difference between the embodiment 2 and the embodiment 1 is that the fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent to carry out fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 6.5, controlling the fulling time to be 45min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 36 ℃, carrying out rinsing after the fulling treatment is finished, carrying out rinsing for 4 times, keeping the residual rate of the fulling agent below 5%, and then feeding the fulling agent into a dehydrator for dehydration treatment.
The consumption of the fulling agent is 82% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the temperature of the solution is 70 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 40s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 4 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 4 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 1 h.
Example 3
The difference between the embodiment 3 and the embodiment 1 is that the fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent to carry out fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 7.5, controlling the fulling time to be 55min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 40 ℃, rinsing after the fulling treatment is finished, wherein the rinsing times are 4 times, and the residual rate of the fulling agent is kept below 5%, and then feeding the fulling machine to carry out dehydration treatment.
The consumption of the fulling agent is 88% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the temperature of the solution is 80 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 50s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 3 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 3 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 3 h.
Example 4
Example 4 differs from example 1 in that the milling treatment comprises feeding the grey cloth into a milling machine and adding milling agent to perform milling treatment, the pH value of the milling agent is controlled to be 7.2, the milling time is controlled to be 53min, the water temperature in the milling process is controlled to be 37 ℃, rinsing is performed after the milling treatment is finished, the rinsing times are 4 times, and the residual rate of the milling agent is kept below 5%, and then the grey cloth is fed into a dehydrator to perform dehydration treatment.
The consumption of the fulling agent is 86% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the solution temperature is 73 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 43s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 3 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 3 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 1.5 hours.
Example 5
The difference between the embodiment 5 and the embodiment 1 is that the fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent to carry out fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 6.8, controlling the fulling time to be 48min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 39 ℃, rinsing after the fulling treatment is finished, wherein the rinsing times are 4 times, and the residual rate of the fulling agent is kept below 5%, and then feeding the fulling machine to carry out dehydration treatment.
The consumption of the fulling agent is 86% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
The bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the solution temperature is 78 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 48s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 3 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 2 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 2.5 hours.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. A production process of cashmere spun gold woolen cloth is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1: spinning, namely adding 5% of cashmere, 8% of chinlon and 84% of Australian wool into wool mixing oil according to the weight percentage to perform wool mixing, and then performing opening, mixing, carding, drawing and roving treatment to prepare blended yarns of 12 Nm; then, the blended yarns are subjected to napping treatment through a napping machine, then the napped blended yarns and spun silks with the weight percentage of 3% of 60Nm are subjected to doubling and stranding through a doubling and stranding machine to form double-ply yarns, and in the stranding process, the blended yarns are firstly subjected to loose twisting and then are subjected to combining and twisting with the spun silks to form the double-ply yarns;
s2: weaving, namely manufacturing the double-strand yarn manufactured in the step S1 into grey cloth on a rapier loom in a single-warp single-weft mode; the gram weight of the gray cloth is 560g/m2;
S3: after-finishing, the grey cloth is made into cashmere gold wire smooth woolen finished products after blank detection, milling, drying, burrowing, shearing and brushing;
the bur raising treatment comprises the steps of feeding the fulled gray cloth into a bur raising machine for wet raising, wherein the front end of the bur raising machine is provided with a water tank, solution containing a brightening agent is added into the water tank, the solution temperature is 75 ℃, the gray cloth firstly enters the solution in the water tank to be soaked for 45s and then is fed into the bur raising machine for raising, the wet raising procedure of soaking-raising is repeated on the gray cloth for 3 times, and then the gray cloth directly enters the bur raising machine for dry raising for 2 times; and after the dry fluffing is finished, winding the gray cloth on a roll shaft, and standing for 2 h.
2. The production process of the cashmere spun-laced woolen cloth according to claim 1, wherein the fulling treatment comprises the steps of feeding the grey cloth into a fulling machine, adding a fulling agent for fulling treatment, controlling the pH value of the fulling agent to be 6.5-7.5, controlling the fulling time to be 45-55min, controlling the water temperature in the fulling process to be 36-40 ℃, rinsing after the fulling treatment, rinsing for 4 times, keeping the residual rate of the fulling agent below 5%, and then feeding the fulling agent into a dehydrator for dehydration.
3. The production process of the cashmere spun-gold tweed according to claim 2, wherein the consumption of the fulling agent is 82-88% of the mass of the gray cloth, and the dilution multiple of water is 25 times.
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CN102888695A (en) * | 2011-07-18 | 2013-01-23 | 黄文平 | Gold-thread wool circle composite cloth resistant to high temperature |
CN105463662A (en) * | 2015-12-15 | 2016-04-06 | 桐乡市濮院毛针织技术服务中心 | Functional fiber blending woollen sweater fabric |
CN108677347A (en) * | 2017-12-28 | 2018-10-19 | 元祥金属工业股份有限公司 | Composite fiber antibacterial cloth with copper alloy wires and manufacturing method thereof |
CN108456976A (en) * | 2018-03-19 | 2018-08-28 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of wool/cashmere/polyamide fibre/blend polyester is along the two-sided production technology of hair |
CN208965148U (en) * | 2018-08-07 | 2019-06-11 | 浙江彩蝶实业有限公司 | A kind of polyamide composite filaments |
CN109487404B (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-01 | 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 | Production method of yakwool water ripple double-faced woolen cloth |
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