CN110772442B - 包含低共熔混合物的化妆料组合物 - Google Patents
包含低共熔混合物的化妆料组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN110772442B CN110772442B CN201910648588.4A CN201910648588A CN110772442B CN 110772442 B CN110772442 B CN 110772442B CN 201910648588 A CN201910648588 A CN 201910648588A CN 110772442 B CN110772442 B CN 110772442B
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Abstract
包含低共熔混合物的化妆料组合物。根据本发明的化妆料组合物通过以低共熔混合物的形态包含α‑羟基酸(AHA),从而具有低刺激和优异的角质剥离效果,并且与水溶液形态的AHA相比,不仅具有优异的皮肤渗透效果,而且通过包含疏水性粉体,可以提供具有改善的剂型内低共熔混合物的分散性以及优异的稳定效果的化妆料组合物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及包含低共熔混合物的化妆料组合物,更详细地,涉及通过以低共熔混合物的形态包含α-羟基酸,从而具有低刺激和优异的角质剥离效果的化妆料组合物。
背景技术
α-羟基酸(α-hydroxy acid,以下简称AHA)是为了软化或去除角化过度的皮肤层而通常使用的成分之一,显示出促进角质的代谢(turnover)、合成胶原蛋白、增强皮肤保湿、缓解细纹、治疗和预防痤疮等的皮肤改善效果。大部分AHA由于pH低,皮肤透过和皮肤改善效果优异,但由于低pH引起诸如瘙痒、刺痛、灼热等的皮肤刺激以及诸如红斑、浮肿等的多种炎症性刺激,因此难以使用为高含量。另外,AHA的缺点在于,当溶解于水中时会被电离,导致皮肤吸收缓慢。特别是,当将AHA剂型化为化妆品时,剂型的pH降低,从而使剂型稳定性降低并可能对皮肤产生诸如刺激等的负面影响。为了弥补这一点,当用中和剂提高剂型的pH时,存在AHA的效果降低的问题。
另一方面,低共熔(eutectic)现象是两种以上的物质混合后熔点下降的现象,上述混合物中包含的各成分在常温下呈固体状态,但当制造成混合物时,不会因各成分之间的范德瓦尔斯相互作用或氢键而结晶,而是成为在室温下以液体存在的无水溶液。对此,如果选择AHA作为上述混合物中包含的成分之一,则可以获得已去除水的状态的液相。由于AHA在无水状态下不电离,因此不显示酸(acid)的特性,因此可以以低刺激使用AHA,并且由于AHA不带电荷,因此对皮肤渗透非常有利。
然而,存在这种低共熔混合物不能稳定地存在于化妆料中的问题。当在包含低共熔混合物的组合物中添加能够形成氢键的质子性溶剂(protic solvent)时,溶剂与低共熔混合物的各构成成分相互作用(形成氢键),从而妨碍低共熔混合物的组分之间的结合,因此难以维持低共熔混合物的特性。另外,虽然包含低共熔混合物的化妆料符合无水剂型,但大部分低共熔混合物的比重大于水,因此当与油混合时发生沉淀,从而存在难以均匀地分散于低粘度油相中的问题。以往,为了解决该问题,在组合物中添加了亲水性粉体,但具有亲水性的低共熔混合物吸附并凝聚在亲水性粉体的表面上,从而发生难以均匀分散的问题。
发明内容
因此,在这种背景下,本发明的发明人研究并开发了包含AHA,同时改善因低pH引起的刺激问题和剂型稳定性的化妆料组合物,从而完成了本发明。
本发明要解决的课题
本发明的发明人为了开发包含AHA,同时改善因低pH引起的问题的化妆料组合物而进行研究的结果,确认了通过以低共熔混合物的形态添加AHA使低共熔混合物内的AHA显示出AHA的效果而对皮肤没有刺激,并且通过添加疏水性粉体可以使上述低共熔混合物稳定地分散于剂型中,从而完成了本发明。
因此,本发明的目的是提供一种包含低共熔混合物形态的AHA,从而具有优异的角质剥离效果、低刺激以及优异的剂型稳定性的化妆料组合物。
解决课题的手段
作为解决上述课题的手段,本发明提供一种化妆料组合物,其包括
包含α-羟基酸的低共熔混合物;以及疏水性粉体。
以下,将详细说明本发明的构成。
本发明的化妆料组合物包括包含α-羟基酸的低共熔混合物。
在本发明中,上述α-羟基酸(α-hydroxy acid,AHA)是在羧酸的α位碳上添加醇基(alcohol group)或羟基(hydroxyl group)的化合物的总称,通过降低角质细胞的离子键能消除角化过度或促进新细胞的形成,从而缩短随着皮肤老化而变长的角质化过程的周期,以促进皮肤细胞的活性,从而起到改善皮肤的作用。另外,AHA通过促进根据成纤维细胞(fibroblast)的胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白的生成,使皮肤富有弹性并柔和,并且通过促进作为真皮重要的细胞外基质成分的粘多糖(mucopolysaccharide)的生成,可以增强皮肤保湿。AHA通过酸的作用而有助于在角质层中去除角质之间的连接环,并显示柔和地溶解角质的效果。上述AHA可以是选自由变质的牛奶或番茄汁等中含有的乳酸(lactic acid);橘子、橙子等中含有的柠檬酸(citric acid);苹果等中含有的苹果酸(malic acid);葡萄酒等中含有的酒石酸(tartaric acid);甘蔗等中含有的乙醇酸(glycolic acid)和扁桃酸(mandelic acid)组成的组中的一种以上,但不限于此。
在一具体例中,上述AHA可以是乳酸(lactic acid)。上述乳酸在AHA中分子量偏小,皮肤渗透快,因此可以快速实现所期望的AHA的效果。
在本发明中,低共熔混合物是指两种以上的固体或液体物质的混合物,两种具有高熔点的化合物混合而形成分子间氢键,并在常温下具有液体状态。在本发明中,上述低共熔混合物可以与“低共熔溶剂(eutectic solvent)”相同含义的术语混合使用。
相对于低共熔混合物总重量100重量份,上述AHA的含量可以为10至95重量份。如果上述AHA的含量小于10重量份,则无法显示所期望的效果,如果含量超过95重量份,则可能发生刺激皮肤的问题。
在本发明中,低共熔混合物可以通过将上述AHA与可通过氢键或范德瓦尔斯相互作用结合的成分混合来制备。此时,上述AHA用作氢键供体(hydrogen bond donor,HBD),并且与上述AHA结合的成分可以用作氢键受体(hydrogen bond acceptor,HBA)。作为可与AHA结合的成分,可以是碳水化合物(糖)、多元醇、羰基化合物、氨基酸、羧酸或其衍生物,但不限于此。例如,作为上述碳水化合物(糖),可以包括单糖类,如葡萄糖(glucose)、半乳糖(galactose)或果糖(fructose);二糖类,如蔗糖(sucrose)、乳糖(lactose)、麦芽糖(maltose)或海藻糖(trehalose);多糖类,如低分子量的糊精(dextrin)、可溶性淀粉(soluble starch)、支链淀粉(amylopectin)或直链淀粉(amylose);或其衍生物。作为上述多元醇,可以包括山梨糖醇(sorbitol)、肌醇(inositol)、甘露醇(mannitol)或聚乙烯醇(polyvinylalcohol)。作为上述羰基化合物,可以包括酮(ketone)类;或醛(aldehyde)类,如二羟基丙酮(dihydroxyacetone)或赤藓酮糖(erythrulose)。作为上述氨基酸,可以包括丙氨酸(alanine)、半胱氨酸(cysteine)、天冬氨酸(aspartic acid)、谷氨酸(glutamicacid)、苯丙氨酸(phenylalanine)、甘氨酸(glycine)、组氨酸(histidine)、异亮氨酸(isoleucine)、赖氨酸(lysine)、亮氨酸(leucine)、甲硫氨酸(methionine)、天冬酰胺(asparagine)、吡咯赖氨酸(pyrrolysine)、脯氨酸(proline)、谷氨酰胺(glutamine)、精氨酸(arginine)、丝氨酸(serine)、苏氨酸(threonine)、硒代半胱氨酸(selenocysteine)、缬氨酸(valine)、色氨酸(tryptophan)、酪氨酸(tyrosine)或其衍生物,并且作为其衍生物,可以包括被公知为甜菜碱(betaine)的三甲基甘氨酸(trimethylglycine)等。作为上述羧酸,可以包括α-羟基酸(α-hydroxy acid,AHA)、β-羟基酸(β-hydroxy acid,BHA)、聚羟基酸(poly-hydroxy acid,PHA)、草酸(oxalic acid)、丙二酸(malonic acid)、琥珀酸(succinic acid)、巯基琥珀酸(mercaptosuccinic acid)或戊二酸(glutaric acid)。
在一具体例中,与AHA形成氢键而制造低共熔混合物的成分可以是三甲基甘氨酸(甜菜碱)。
根据本发明的低共熔混合物可以通过选择本领域技术人员常用的任何方法来制备,上述低共熔混合物的示例性制造方法如下:
i)将AHA和与AHA形成氢键的成分中具有最低熔点的成分加热至上述成分熔融的温度而制成液相,然后将剩余成分溶于上述熔融的液体中并冷却混合物的方法,
ii)将AHA和与AHA形成氢键的成分溶于一种溶剂中,然后利用沸点差异用冷冻干燥或蒸发器(evaporator)去除溶剂的方法。
可用于制造低共熔混合物的溶剂不受特别限制,只要其是能够溶解AHA和与AHA形成氢键的成分的溶剂即可。另外,上述溶剂可以使用非溶剂部分,例如水、醇、聚乙二醇、辛酸乙酯、丙二醇月桂酸酯、二乙二醇单乙醚、四乙二醇二甲醚和三乙二醇单乙醚等的辅助溶剂,但不限于此。
根据本发明的低共熔混合物可以通过选择构成成分中的一种作为AHA来获得已去除水的状态的液相。由于AHA在无水状态下不电离,因此不显示酸(acid)的特性,因此可以以低刺激使用AHA,并且由于AHA不带电荷,因此可以对皮肤渗透显示出有利的效果。
相对于化妆料组合物总重量,上述低共熔组合物的含量可以为0.0001至10重量份,例如0.001至8重量份,0.01至5重量份,0.1至3重量份,0.5至1重量份,0.0001至8重量份,0.0001至5重量份,0.0001至3重量份,0.0001至1重量份,0.0001至0.5重量份,0.001至10重量份,0.01至10重量份,0.1至10重量份,0.5至10重量份,1至10重量份。
然而,由于如上所述的低共熔混合物的比重大于水,因此当与油混合时发生沉淀,从而难以均匀地分散于油相中。为了解决该问题,使用了粉体使得上述低共熔混合物稳定地存在于包含油的组合物中,但当粉体具有亲水性时,低共熔混合物吸附并凝聚在亲水性粉体的表面上,从而存在难以均匀分散的问题。
对此,本发明的化妆料组合物包含疏水性粉体。
在本发明中,上述疏水性粉体可以包含为用于将低共熔混合物稳定地分散于组合物中的分散稳定剂。上述疏水性粉体可以使用任何而无论其形状(球状、针状、片状)、粒径(微粒、颜料等)、颗粒结构(多孔质、无孔质等),只要其通常为可用于化妆料组合物的具有疏水性的粉体即可。上述疏水性粉体可以是(甲基)丙烯酸系聚合物、内酯系聚合物、聚苯乙烯、聚烯烃系聚合物或其共聚物或疏水性二氧化硅,但不限于此。例如,上述疏水性粉体可以使用诸如甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物、HDI/三羟甲基己内酯交联聚合物、聚苯乙烯、疏水性二氧化硅、聚氨酯、聚乙烯、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷硅倍半氧烷交联聚合物或二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/硅倍半氧烷交联聚合物等的粉体,但不限于此。
在一具体例中,上述疏水性粉体可以是甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物、HDI/三羟甲基己内酯交联聚合物或聚苯乙烯。
另外,包含在本发明化妆料组合物中的疏水性粉体可以具有在表面上不形成气孔的形态(非多孔性),或者具有在表面上形成的气孔(多孔性)或者具有半球形(hemispherical)的形态。在本发明中,如上所述的多孔性粉体或半球形粉体由于单位重量的体积大,因此剂型内分散改善效果优异,并且与非多孔性相比,吸油能力优异,从而提高油的粘度,因此作为用于将低共熔混合物稳定地分散于组合物中的分散稳定剂,可以显示出优异的效果。
相对于化妆料组合物总重量,上述粉体的含量可以为0.1至30重量份,例如0.3至15重量份,0.5至10重量份,1至5重量份,0.1至15重量份,0.1至10重量份,0.1至5重量份,0.3至30重量份,0.5至30重量份,1至30重量份。
根据本发明的化妆料组合物还可以包含油相成分。油相成分包含在组合物中并存在于低共熔混合物的外相中,从而有助于低共熔混合物可以稳定地存在于组合物中。即,根据本发明的化妆料组合物可以是在油相成分内含有低共熔混合物的剂型。
上述油相成分可包含油或蜡中的一种以上。上述油和蜡可以应用所有在本领域中作为化妆品的成分通常使用的成分。例如,作为上述油,可以使用硅系油、酯系油、甘油三酯系油、烃系油或植物性油,并且根据需要,可以将这些成分搭配一种以上而使用。
例如,作为上述硅系油,可以使用硅系流动性油或分散于油中的硅系交联聚合物等。例如,作为硅系流动性油,可以使用环戊硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、环庚硅氧烷、环聚甲基硅氧烷、环苯基聚甲基硅氧烷、环四硅氧烷、环三硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛酰基聚三甲基硅氧烷、辛酰基聚甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡硬脂基聚甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基聚甲基硅氧烷、己基聚甲基硅氧烷、月桂基聚甲基硅氧烷、肉豆蔻基聚甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚甲基硅氧烷、硬脂基聚甲基硅氧烷、硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷、三氟丙基聚甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基聚二甲基硅氧烷、二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷或苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷等。上述硅系油成分可以单独使用或者两种以上的油混合使用。作为硅系交联聚合物,可以使用聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物或PEG-12聚二甲基硅氧烷/PPG-20交联聚合物,但不限于此。
作为酯类油,可以使用抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸亚油酸酯、抗坏血酸硬脂酸酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、苯甲酸苄酯、月桂酸苄酯、丁二醇二辛酸酯/二癸酸酯、丁二醇二异壬酸酯、丁二醇月桂酸酯、丁二醇硬脂酸酯、异硬脂酸丁酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇壬酸酯、辛酸十六烷基酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、鲸蜡醇异壬酸酯、乙基己醇辛酸酯/癸酸酯、异壬酸乙基己酯、异硬脂酸乙基己酯、月桂酸乙基己酯、月桂酸己酯、辛基十二醇异硬脂酸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、异硬脂醇异壬酸酯、异硬脂醇异硬脂酸酯、异鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、新戊二醇二乙基己酸酯、新戊二醇二异壬酸酯、新戊二醇二异硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇四乙基己酸酯、二季戊四醇六酸酯、聚甘油-2二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2倍半异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2四异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-4二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-4异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6倍半异硬脂酸酯或三异辛酸甘油酯等。
作为甘油三酯系油,可以使用C8-12酸甘油三酯、C12-18酸甘油三酯、辛酸/癸酸/甘油三酯、辛酸/癸酸/月桂酸甘油三酯、C10-C40异烷酸甘油三酯、C10-C18甘油三酯、甘油三乙酰羟基硬脂酸酯、大豆甘油酯、三山嵛精、三癸精、三异辛酸甘油酯、三庚酸甘油酯、三异硬脂精、三棕榈精或三硬脂精。
作为烃系油,可以使用流动石蜡(液体石蜡、矿物油)、石蜡、凡士林、微晶蜡或角鲨烯等。
作为植物性油,可以使用鳄梨油、小麦胚芽油、玫瑰果油、乳木果油、杏仁油、橄榄油、澳洲坚果油、摩洛哥坚果油、绣线菊油、葵花油、蓖麻油、山茶油、玉米油、红花油、大豆油、菜籽油、夏威夷核果油、荷荷巴油、棕榈油、棕榈仁油或椰子油。
作为上述蜡,可以使用通常用于化妆料中的烃系蜡、植物性蜡或有机硅蜡等的所有蜡。例如,可以包含小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、米蜡、蜂蜡、羊毛脂、地蜡、纯地蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、C30-C45烷基二甲基硅烷基聚丙基倍半硅氧烷、乙烯/丙烯共聚物或聚乙烯蜡,但不限于此。
上述油相成分的含量没有特别限制,并且可以以除上述低共熔混合物和疏水性粉体之外的剩余含量包含在组合物中。
本发明的化妆料组合物还可以包含可用于普通化妆品中的各种成分,例如保湿剂、紫外线阻断剂、中和剂、增稠剂、香料、防腐剂、抗氧化剂或色素。
根据本发明的化妆料组合物也可以制造成本领域中通常制造的任何剂型。例如,上述化妆料组合物可以具有以下剂型:诸如柔肤水或营养化妆水等的化妆水、喷雾型的化妆水、诸如面部乳液、身体乳液等的乳液、诸如营养霜、保湿霜、眼霜等的霜、棒、精华、化妆软膏、喷雾、凝胶、面膜、防晒霜、隔离霜、液体型或喷雾型等的粉底、粉、诸如洁面乳、卸妆油等的化妆去除剂、诸如洗面奶、皂、沐浴露等的清洗剂等,但不限于此。
本发明的化妆料组合物可以根据常规使用方法使用,并且可以根据使用者的皮肤状态或喜好改变其使用次数。
若参照详细后述的实验例和制造例,本发明的优点和特征以及实现它们的方法则会明确。然而,本发明不限于以下所公开的实验例和制造例,而是可以以许多不同的形式实施,并且只是为了使本发明的公开彻底,且向本发明所属技术领域的普通技术人员完全说明本发明的范围而提供的。
有益效果
根据本发明的化妆料组合物通过以低共熔混合物的形态包含α-羟基酸(AHA),从而具有低刺激和优异的角质剥离效果,并且与水溶液形态的AHA相比,不仅具有优异的皮肤渗透效果,而且通过添加疏水性粉体,可以提供具有改善的剂型内低共熔混合物的分散性以及优异的稳定效果的化妆料组合物。
附图说明
图1是通过化妆料的截面观察根据剂型内包含的疏水性粉体的形态的分散稳定效果的结果。
图2是将包含水溶液形态的乳酸和低共熔混合物形态的乳酸的化妆料的表皮渗透程度进行比较的图。
图3是将包含水溶液形态的乳酸和低共熔混合物形态的乳酸的化妆料的真皮渗透程度进行比较的图。
图4是将包含水溶液形态的乳酸和低共熔混合物形态的乳酸的化妆料的随时间的角质剥离效果进行比较的图。
图5是将包含水溶液形态的乳酸和低共熔混合物形态的乳酸的化妆料的随时间的刺激程度进行比较的图。
具体实施方式
以下,将通过以下实施例详细说明本发明。但,以下实施例仅仅是例示本发明,并且本发明的内容不限于以下实施例。
制备例.乳酸低共熔混合物的制造
通过如下方法制造了乳酸低共熔混合物。
i)制造了乳酸和甜菜碱的低共熔混合物。具体而言,通过以下来制造:将乳酸和甜菜碱充分混合以使其摩尔比为2:1后,在70℃的温度下以一定速率搅拌直至变为透明的液体。
ii)将乳酸和甜菜碱充分混合以使其摩尔比为2:1后,添加少量的水并溶解成完全透明的液体,然后冷冻干燥12小时以上,以去除水分。
实施例1至5.无水棒剂型的化妆料制造
使用上述制备例中制造的低共熔混合物,根据下表1中所示的组成和含量制造了实施例1至3的无水棒剂型的化妆料。具体而言,将油相成分加热至熔点以上并充分熔化后,在上述溶液中均匀分散疏水性粉体。之后,向上述溶液中添加制备例中制造的低共熔混合物,分散并冷却,从而制造了无水棒剂型的化妆料。此时,作为疏水性粉体,使用了各形态的甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物(PMMA),并且作为比较例,制造了不包含疏水性粉体的化妆料(比较例1)。
[表1]
另外,使用HDI/三羟甲基己内酯交联聚合物和聚苯乙烯作为疏水性粉体来制造了实施例4和5的无水棒剂型的化妆料。以与实施例1至3相同的方法进行了具体的制造方法,不同之处在于,疏水性粉体的种类。
[表2]
实验例1.分散稳定效果
1)根据甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物(PMMA)的形态的分散稳定确认
为了用肉眼确认根据上述实施例1至3的化妆料的粉体的形态的沉淀现象,将水溶性色素(黄色4号)溶于低共熔混合物中后,进行了实验。制造棒剂型后,确认底部和截面,从而确认了1次分散改善效果;将剂型再加热并冷却后确认沉淀现象,从而确认了2次分散稳定效果。
[分散改善和分散稳定效果评价标准]
◎:效果非常优异
○:效果优异
△:弱的改善效果
X:无改善效果
[表3]
其结果,如上述表3的棒剂型的底面和截面所示,可以确认在不包含疏水性粉体的比较例1中,色素沉淀并且疏水性粉体分布不均匀。相反,添加疏水性粉体(PMMA)的实施例1至3的情况,可以确认剂型的颜色均匀并且低共熔混合物分布均匀。特别是,确认了在包含半球形形态的PMMA的实施例3中,分散稳定效果最优异(图1)。
2)除PMMA之外的疏水性粉体中的分散稳定效果确认
以与上述1)相同的方法确认了实施例4和5的化妆料的分散稳定效果。应用了与1)相同的分散改善和分散稳定效果的评价标准。
[表4]
如上述表4所示,在使用HDI/三羟甲基己内酯交联聚合物作为疏水性粉体的实施例4和使用聚苯乙烯作为疏水性粉体的实施例5中,也可以确认色素分布均匀并且低共熔混合物分散均匀。通过上述结果确认了,在除PMMA之外的疏水性粉体中也具有优异的分散改善和分散稳定效果。
实施例6.无水霜剂型的化妆料制造
根据下表5的组成和含量,制造了无水霜剂型的化妆料。以与实施例1至5相同的方法制造了上述无水霜剂型的化妆料。此时,以与实施例6相同的方法制造了比较例2,不同之处在于,将乳酸溶解于水溶液中而使用。
[表5]
实验例2.皮肤渗透效果确认
将上述实施例6中制造的无水霜剂型的化妆料涂抹于猪皮肤上后,将透过表皮和真皮的荧光物质定量化,并将各时间(4小时和8小时)的乳酸的皮肤透过度进行相对比较而示于图2和3中。
如图2和3所示,可以确认对于表皮的透过度,将乳酸以水溶液形态添加的比较例2的情况,随时间的皮肤透过度增加约1.1倍,相反,将乳酸以低共熔混合物的形态添加的实施例6与比较例2相比,在4小时的条件下多透过约1.3倍,在8小时的条件下多透过约1.9倍。实施例6的随时间的皮肤透过度经过8小时后,与比较例2相比增加约2.3倍(图2)。
在真皮的情况下,在涂抹比较例2和实施例6后,在4小时的条件下皮肤透过度上没有大差异,但在8小时的条件下,实施例6多透过约1.85倍而显示出较大幅度的差异。实施例6的随时间的皮肤透过度经过8小时后,与比较例2相比增加约1.5倍(图3)。
实施例7.无水棒剂型的化妆料制造
以与上述实施例1至5相同的方法根据下表6的组成制造了无水棒剂型的化妆料。此时,以与比较例7相同的方法制造了比较例3,不同之处在于,将乳酸溶解于水溶液中而使用。
[表6]
实验例3.角质剥离效果和刺激程度确认
为了确认根据乳酸的形态的角质剥离效果和刺激程度,在受试者的上臂内侧部位(直径2cm)处用5%的DHA(Dihydroxy acetone)溶液进行着色(n=4)。之后,将分别包含水溶液形态的乳酸(1%)(比较例3)和低共熔混合物形态的乳酸(0.5%)(实施例7)的棒剂型每天2次,每次5回以上地揉搓涂抹2周后,用色度计(chromameter)测量了L值(亮度值)的变化。此时,将未处理群用作阴性对照群。通过问卷以5分标准调查刺激程度,并用肉眼确认发红的程度,从而评价了刺激程度。角质剥离效果通过以下通式计算并示于图中。
[通式]
在上述通式中,L最大表示通过DHA着色后的L值;Ld表示各日期的L值;L0表示通过DHA着色前的初始L值。
如图4所示,可以确认与无处理群和比较例3的化妆料相比,实施例7的化妆料的情况,随着时间的经过,角质剥离效果明显优异。另外,低共熔混合物形态的乳酸(实施例7)具有优异的角质剥离效果的同时刺激最低(图5)。即,低共熔混合物形态的乳酸与水溶液形态相比,以一半的浓度以低刺激显示出更优异的效果(以13天为标准,约1.3倍)。
Claims (15)
1.一种化妆料组合物,其包括包含α-羟基酸(AHA)的低共熔混合物(eutecticmixture);以及疏水性粉体;
其中,所述化妆料组合物是无水剂型;
其中,上述疏水性粉体为半球形的形态;
其中,上述疏水性粉体是(甲基)丙烯酸系聚合物;
其中,相对于低共熔混合物总重量100重量份,上述α-羟基酸的含量为10重量份至95重量份;
其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述低共熔混合物的含量为0.0001重量份至10重量份,且上述疏水性粉体的含量为0.1重量份至30重量份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述α-羟基酸是选自由乳酸(lacticacid)、柠檬酸(citric acid)、苹果酸(malic acid)、酒石酸(tartaric acid)、扁桃酸(mandelic acid)和乙醇酸(glycolic acid)组成的组中的一种以上。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述低共熔混合物包含选自由碳水化合物、多元醇、羰基化合物、氨基酸、羧酸及其衍生物组成的组中的一种以上的成分和α-羟基酸。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述低共熔混合物的含量为0.001重量份至8重量份。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述低共熔混合物的含量为0.01重量份至5重量份。
6.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述低共熔混合物的含量为0.1重量份至3重量份。
7.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述低共熔混合物的含量为0.5重量份至1重量份。
8.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述疏水性粉体是具有碳数为1至4的烷基的(甲基)丙烯酸烷基酯系聚合物。
9.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述疏水性粉体是甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物。
10.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述疏水性粉体的含量为0.3重量份至15重量份。
11.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述疏水性粉体的含量为0.5重量份至10重量份。
12.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物总重量,上述疏水性粉体的含量为1重量份至5重量份。
13.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述化妆料组合物还包含油相成分。
14.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述化妆料组合物将低共熔混合物作为内相,并且将油相成分作为外相。
15.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,上述化妆料组合物在油相成分内含有低共熔混合物。
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