CN110693757A

CN110693757A - Hydroxy acid-containing composition, and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110693757A
Application number: CN201911157655.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 刘薇; 吴知情; 胡根华
Original assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-11-22
Filing date: 2019-11-22
Publication date: 2020-01-17

Abstract

The invention provides a composition containing hydroxy acid, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the composition containing hydroxy acid comprises the following components: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and proteases. The composition containing the hydroxy acid specifically selects the alpha-hydroxy acid and the beta-hydroxy acid, and is compounded with the protease, and the three components can be mutually matched and synergized, so that the finally obtained composition not only has the function of removing skin cutin, but also has the comprehensive repairing effects of reducing skin pigmentation, brightening skin, improving skin color and improving skin roughness. In addition, all components of the hydroxy acid-containing composition are derived from natural fruits, so that potential stimulation to skin can be obviously reduced while the regeneration capability of stimulated cells is not influenced, and the application prospect is wide.

Description

Hydroxy acid-containing composition, and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition containing hydroxy acid and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

The human skin is aged or affected by external physical and chemical environmental conditions (such as excessive sun exposure or exposure to sunlight) to generate aging phenomena in different degrees, the substances among fibers are changed, particularly the moisture is reduced, the skin becomes dry, loose and rough, and skin diseases such as acne, verruca nigra, keratosis eczema and the like are generated.

In order to alleviate the above skin problems, many cosmetics contain fruit acids. Fruit acid is a naturally occurring non-toxic substance, and most of the fruit acid is an organic acid extracted from various fruits, sugarcane and yoghurt. The fruit acid has simple molecular structure, small molecular weight, no toxicity, no odor, and strong permeability, can be absorbed by skin through horny layer, has safe action, and does not destroy epidermal barrier function, and can be used for treating pigmentation diseases such as ichthyosis, keratosis, plague, rosacea, chloasma, etc.

Research shows that the tartaric acid has very obvious effects on promoting the metabolism of epidermal cells, improving the barrier function of skin, eliminating skin photodamage and the like. Firstly, the tartaric acid can weaken the adhesiveness of the keratinocyte, promote the dead keratinocyte to fall off in time, improve the wettability of the cuticle and quickly adjust the secretion function of sebaceous glands; meanwhile, the growth of epidermal cells is promoted, the renewal of cells is accelerated, so that the aims of removing skin stains and early wrinkles are fulfilled, and the skin is smooth and elastic. Secondly, the tartaric acid can remove dead cells accumulated at the opening of the sebaceous gland, so that the sebaceous gland can be smoothly excreted, sebum, sweat gland liquid of epidermis and moisture form a sebaceous membrane on the outer surface of the skin through emulsification, the moisture in the skin can be protected from excessive evaporation, and bacteria can be prevented from invading the skin; the fruit acid can increase fibrin content in skin and release more hyaluronic acid. In addition, the tartaric acid can thin the connective tissue of the dermal papilla layer of the skin, reduce pigmentation, increase the number of collagen fibers and elastic fibers, reduce the generation of fine wrinkles, increase the elasticity of the skin and repair skin injury to a certain extent. The fruit acid peel is a new trend of beautifying and protecting skin in recent years, and is widely applied to cosmetics.

However, the higher the concentration of the tartaric acid, the lower the pH, the faster the absorption of the fruit acid into the skin, but the more irritating the skin, and the skin may develop allergic reactions such as redness, edema, burning, prickling, etc. Studies have demonstrated that the stimulatory and cell renewal capacity of hydroxy acids decreases with increasing pH.

CN107693387A discloses a cosmetic with exfoliating effect and a preparation method thereof, the cosmetic can complex and adsorb aged amino acid groups on skin, plays a role in wrapping and emulsifying in the kneading process, achieves the peeling effect, finally plays a role in removing dead skin, is mild and non-irritating, and has a makeup removing effect. However, the pH value of the exfoliating cosmetic provided by the invention is close to neutral, and the repairing and moisturizing effects on skin are poor.

Therefore, how to make the cosmetic containing hydroxy acid have better skin-refreshing effect, do not generate irritation to the skin and consolidate the skin barrier function is just the technical difficulty of the current research.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a composition containing hydroxy acid, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the composition containing hydroxy acid comprises the following components: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and proteases. The alpha-hydroxy acid and the beta-hydroxy acid are specifically selected and compounded with the protease, and the finally obtained composition can achieve the skin care effects of removing skin cutin, brightening skin and improving skin roughness.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the present invention provides a hydroxy acid-containing composition comprising the following components: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and proteases.

The composition containing the hydroxy acid specifically selects alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid, and is compounded with protease, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid and the beta-hydroxy acid belong to hydroxy acid, the hydroxy acid and the beta-hydroxy acid mainly have the effects of cleaning and removing cutin on skin, the protease component can destroy the interaction among cells, promote the proteolysis of the cutin outer layer, reduce the cross-linking of a keratinized desmosome region, and destroy the bonding among keratinized cells, so that the cutin is promoted to be stripped, and the skin is soft and smooth. The inventor creatively discovers that when the three components are combined together, the components can be mutually matched and have synergistic interaction, so that the finally obtained composition not only has the function of removing skin cutin, but also has the comprehensive repairing effect of reducing skin pigmentation, brightening skin, improving skin color and improving skin roughness. In addition, all components of the hydroxy acid-containing composition are derived from natural fruits, so that potential stimulation to skin can be obviously reduced while the regeneration capability of stimulated cells is not influenced, and the application prospect is wide.

Preferably, the mass ratio of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid is (2-8: 1), and may be, for example, 2:1, 3:1, 4:1, 5:1, 6:1, 7:1, or 8: 1.

In the present invention, the mass ratio of the α -hydroxy acid to the β -hydroxy acid is preferably within the above range, in order to achieve an all-round skin-repairing effect of the hydroxy acid-containing composition. This is because the α -hydroxy acid and the β -hydroxy acid have different sites of action on the skin, but they are not sufficient, and when the content of one of the components is too high, that is, when the mass ratio of the α -hydroxy acid to the β -hydroxy acid is out of the above range, and then the α -hydroxy acid and the β -hydroxy acid are complexed with the protease, effective coordination between the components may not be achieved, and the skin repairing effect may be poor. In addition, the two hydroxy acids are compounded within the mass ratio range, so that the irritation of the hydroxy acids to skin can be further reduced, and the obtained composition is more mild and relaxed when in use.

Preferably, the hydroxy acid-containing composition has a pH of 3.5 to 4.5, and may be, for example, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, or 4.5, etc.

Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is any one or a combination of at least two of glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, preferably a combination of glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.

Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid and/or carnitine, preferably salicylic acid.

Preferably, the protease is any one of papain, bromelain or protease dextran or a combination of at least two of them, preferably papain.

Preferably, the hydroxy acid-containing composition comprises the following components: glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid and proteases.

Preferably, the protease is added in an amount of 1-10 wt%, for example, 1 wt%, 2 wt%, 3 wt%, 4 wt%, 5 wt%, 6 wt%, 7 wt%, 8 wt%, 9 wt%, 10 wt%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the hydroxy acid-containing composition.

In a second aspect, the present invention also provides a process for the preparation of a hydroxy acid-containing composition according to the first aspect, said process comprising: mixing an alpha-hydroxy acid, a beta-hydroxy acid and a protease to obtain the hydroxy acid-containing composition.

Preferably, the mixing temperature is 20-50 ℃, for example can be 20 ℃, 25 ℃, 30 ℃, 35 ℃, 40 ℃, 45 ℃ or 50 ℃.

Preferably, the mixing time is 1-10min, for example, 1min, 2min, 3min, 4min, 5min, 6min, 7min, 8min, 9min or 10min, etc.

Preferably, the stirring speed of the mixing is 300-800rpm, and may be, for example, 300rpm, 400rpm, 500rpm, 600rpm, 700rpm, 800rpm, or the like.

In a third aspect, the present invention also provides a cosmetic comprising the hydroxy acid-containing composition according to the first aspect.

Preferably, the hydroxy acid-containing composition is added in an amount of 1 to 8 wt%, for example, 1 wt%, 2 wt%, 3 wt%, 4 wt%, 5 wt%, 6 wt%, 7 wt%, 8 wt%, etc., preferably 2 to 6 wt%, based on 100% of the total mass of the cosmetic.

Preferably, the cosmetic comprises any one of essence, lotion, cream, lotion, mask or face cream.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) the composition containing the hydroxy acid specifically selects the alpha-hydroxy acid and the beta-hydroxy acid, and is compounded with the protease, and the three components can be mutually matched and synergized, so that the finally obtained composition not only has the function of removing skin cutin, but also has the comprehensive repairing effects of reducing skin pigmentation, brightening skin, improving skin color and improving skin roughness;

(2) all components of the hydroxy acid-containing composition are derived from natural fruits, so that potential stimulation to skin can be obviously reduced while the regeneration capability of stimulated cells is not influenced, and the application prospect is wide.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a graph showing changes in melanin values of the skin after the essences prepared in application example 1 and comparative application examples 1 to 6 were applied to the skin for one and two weeks.

Detailed Description

The present invention is described in further detail below. The following examples are merely illustrative of the present invention and do not represent or limit the scope of the claims, which are defined by the claims.

The manufacturers and the brands of part of the raw materials used in the examples and the comparative examples of the invention are as follows:

papain (available from Lipotec under the trade name PEELMOIST);

bromelain (commercially available from Pompe biological Co., Ltd., under the trade name bromelain).

Example 1

This example provides a composition containing a hydroxy acid and a method for preparing the same.

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 80% of glycolic acid, 18% of salicylic acid and 2% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 4.4: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid, salicylic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 2

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 75% of malic acid, 20% of salicylic acid and 5% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (malic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 3.5: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing malic acid, salicylic acid and papain at 40 deg.C and stirring speed of 300rpm for 5min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 3

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 60% of lactic acid, 30% of salicylic acid and 10% of bromelain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (lactic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 2: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing lactic acid, salicylic acid and bromelain at 50 deg.C and stirring speed of 600rpm for 8min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 4

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 80% of lactobionic acid, 10% of salicylic acid and 10% of bromelain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (lactobionic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 8: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing lactobionic acid, salicylic acid and bromelain at 30 ℃ and a stirring speed of 800rpm for 10min to obtain the hydroxy acid-containing composition.

Example 5

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 50% of glycolic acid, 30% of lactobionic acid, 18% of salicylic acid and 2% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid, lactobionic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 4.4: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 6

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 45% of glycolic acid, 30% of lactobionic acid, 5% of lactic acid, 18% of salicylic acid and 2% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid, lactobionic acid and lactic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 4.4: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 7

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 45% of glycolic acid, 30% of lactobionic acid, 2.5% of lactic acid, 2.5% of malic acid, 18% of salicylic acid and 2% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid and malic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 4.4: 1;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Example 8

The difference from example 1 is glycolic acid 90%, salicylic acid 9% and papain 1%, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 10: 1.

Example 9

The difference from example 1 is 49% of glycolic acid, 49% of salicylic acid and 2% of papain, wherein the mass ratio of alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid) to beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is 1: 1.

Comparative example 1

This comparative example provides a single glycolic acid.

Comparative example 2

This comparative example provides a single salicylic acid.

Comparative example 3

This comparative example provides a single papain enzyme.

Comparative example 4

The present comparative example provides a composition containing a hydroxy acid and a method of making the same.

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: glycolic acid 98% and papain 2%;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Comparative example 5

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: salicylic acid 98% and papain 2%;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing salicylic acid and papain at 30 deg.C and stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Comparative example 6

Wherein the hydroxyl acid-containing composition comprises the following components by the total mass of 100 percent: 80% of glycolic acid and 20% of salicylic acid;

the preparation method comprises the following steps:

mixing glycolic acid and salicylic acid at 30 deg.C with stirring speed of 500rpm for 3min to obtain the composition containing hydroxy acid.

Application examples 1 to 9

The application examples provide a set of essence, the specific formula of which is shown in table 1, wherein the hydroxy acid-containing compositions in application examples 1-9 respectively correspond to the hydroxy acid-containing compositions prepared in application examples 1-9.

TABLE 1

The preparation method of the essence described in application examples 1 to 9 is as follows:

(1) heating the phase A raw material to 80 ℃ at a stirring speed of 3000 rpm;

(2) heating the phase B raw material to 80 ℃ at a stirring speed of 500 rpm;

(3) mixing, homogenizing and cooling the phase B raw material heated in the step (2) and the phase A heated in the step (1), wherein the homogenizing temperature is 80 ℃, the homogenizing time is 2min, and the mixing and homogenizing stirring speed is 1000 rpm;

(4) and (4) cooling the system cooled in the step (3) to 45 ℃, adding the C-phase raw material, mixing for 10min at a stirring speed of 500rpm, and vacuumizing and defoaming to obtain the essence.

Comparative application examples 1 to 6

The comparative application examples of this group provide a group of essences, the specific formulation of which is shown in table 2, wherein the compositions prepared in comparative examples 1 to 6 were used in correspondence with the comparative examples 1 to 6, respectively.

TABLE 2

The preparation method of the essence liquid of the comparative application example is the same as that of the essence liquid of the application example.

And (3) performance testing:

the essence obtained in the application example of the present invention and the comparative application example was tested as follows:

1. human body trial test:

the essences prepared in the application examples and the comparative application examples were used as samples, 20 women aged 18 to 40 were used as test subjects, 15 sites were randomly marked on the left forearm of each test subject, the essences prepared in the application examples 1 to 9 and the comparative application examples 1 to 6 were randomly used on the 15 sites, and after one week of use, the improvement of the removal of skin cutin, pigmentation and skin roughness was measured with the following scoring criteria: the score is 1-10, the higher the score is, the stronger the characteristic of the project index is, the better the improvement effect is, and the arithmetic mean value is taken as the final evaluation effect.

The test results are shown in table 3:

TABLE 3

From the data in table 3, it can be seen that compared with comparative application examples 1 to 6, the four evaluation indexes of the essences of application examples 1 to 7 are comprehensively leading, which indicates that the composition containing hydroxy acid of the present invention applied to the essences can have a good cutin removal effect, can effectively improve skin pigmentation, increase skin smoothness, and can also improve skin color effect, because the three components of the composition containing hydroxy acid of the present invention can be matched with each other, have synergistic effect, and achieve an all-round skin repairing effect. In addition, the above effects are also positively correlated with the amount of the composition added.

Compared with application example 1, the mass ratio of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid in the hydroxy acid-containing composition in application example 8 and application example 9 is beyond the mass ratio range of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid, and after the essence prepared by the composition is applied to the skin, the four evaluation indexes are all lower than that in application example 1, which shows that the better skin comprehensive repairing effect can be realized only by controlling the mass ratio of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid in the hydroxy acid-containing composition in the invention within the range of (2-8): 1.

2. Skin melanin value test evaluation:

the essence prepared in application example 1 and the essences prepared in comparative application examples 1 to 6 were used as test samples, 20 women aged 18 to 40 were used as subjects, 7 sites were randomly divided on the left forearm of each subject, the essences prepared in application example 1 and comparative application examples 1 to 6 were randomly used on the 7 sites, and the change in the melanin value of the skin was measured by a skin test instrument (MPA 9, manufactured by CK company, germany) one week and two weeks after each sample was used, and the specific test results are shown in fig. 1.

As can be seen from fig. 1, after one week using the essence prepared in application example 1 of the present invention, a significant decrease in melanin value of the skin occurred, and the decrease intensity was significantly superior to that of any of comparative application examples 1 to 6. The result shows that the composition containing the hydroxy acid can effectively reduce the melanin value of the skin after being applied to the essence, namely effectively improve the pigmentation of the skin and brighten the skin color.

3. Haemolysis test of erythrocytes

The essence prepared in the application example and the comparative application example of the invention is subjected to a red blood cell hemolysis experiment.

The erythrocyte hemolysis experiment is based on the principle that lipid and protein on the surface of human skin are similar to cell membranes of erythrocytes, and the irritation degree of cosmetics is evaluated by detecting the influence of the cosmetics on hemoglobin release and hemoglobin denaturation of erythrocytes.

The experimental method comprises the following steps:

1. conditions of the experiment

1.1 suspension of erythrocytes

Preparing sheep red blood cell suspension with concentration of 2%, collecting blood aseptically, storing with Ashi solution, and storing in 4 deg.C refrigerator (shelf life of 1 month, and recommended use within 2 weeks).

1.2 reagents

Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), Phosphate Buffer (PBS), physiological saline, and ethanol.

1.3 instrumentation

An enzyme-labeling instrument, a constant-temperature incubator, an ultra-pure water machine, a high-pressure steam sterilization pot, a pipettor, a4 ℃ refrigerator, a centrifugal machine, an electric heating constant-temperature water bath pot and an analytical balance.

2. Procedure for the preparation of the

2.1 preparation of sample suspension

Selection of a solvent: normal saline or PBS is selected as a solvent, and DMSO or ethanol is selected as a solvent for a sample which is not dissolved in normal saline or PBS. It must be ensured that each diluted sample suspension is well mixed.

Sample concentration range detection experiment: preparing a test substance into a series of gradient suspensions of 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 20%, 30% and 40% by using a solvent, mixing the suspensions with the erythrocyte suspension in an equal volume ratio, culturing at 37 ℃ for 3h, centrifuging to take supernatant, measuring absorbance at 410nm, 540nm and 575nm of an enzyme labeling instrument, and comparing with the absorbance values of a negative control and a positive control. According to the results, the concentration range of the sample is selected from the upper and lower intervals covering 50% of hemolysis rate.

Preparation of sample suspension: and selecting proper test concentration according to the detection experiment result to prepare the concentration of the sample series.

2.2 hemolysis and protein denaturation assays

To a 2mL centrifuge tube, 500. mu.L of the test substance and 500. mu.L of the 2% sheep red blood cell suspension (mixed in equal volumes) were added at different concentrations and mixed well. 3 replicates were set for each concentration, with solvent (saline or PBS) as negative control (i.e., no hemolysis at all) and 0.1% SDS solution as positive control (i.e., complete hemolysis). After incubation in a 37 ℃ incubator for 3h, centrifugation is carried out at 2000rpm for 3min, 10. mu.L of supernatant is taken out, added to an ELISA plate (90. mu.L of physiological saline or PBS is added to each well in advance), mixed, and the absorbances and differences A410nm, A540nm and A575nm are measured at 410nm, 540nm and 575nm of an ELISA reader.

3. Analysis of results

3.1 method of calculating hemolysis assay

The hemolysis rate (%) was calculated according to the following equation: hemolysis ratio (%) - (a-C)/(B-C) × 100

Wherein A is the average absorbance of the sample at 410nm, B is the average absorbance of the positive control at 410nm, and C is the average absorbance of the negative control at 410 nm.

The concentration of the test substance HC50(mg/L) at which the test substance caused 50% hemolysis of red blood cells was determined according to the regression equation.

3.2 calculation method of protein denaturation assay

The protein denaturation index DI (%) was calculated according to the following formula:

DI (%) - (test a575 nm/a540 nm)/(positive control a575 nm/a540 nm) × 100

3.3, judgment Standard

Calculating the L/D value of the sample from the HC50 value and the DI value: HC50/DI

The degree of cosmetic irritation was graded according to the RBC test grading Standard of European Alternatives validation center (ECVAM), as shown in Table 4 below:

TABLE 4 ECVAM cosmetic product RBC Experimental irritation grading Standard

L/D	Grading
		﹥100	Has no irritation
10﹤L/D≤100	Micro-stimulation property
		1﹤L/D≤10	Mild irritation
0.1﹤L/D≤1	Moderate irritation
		L/D≤0.1	Severe irritation

3.4, test results

The specific test results are shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 results of erythrocyte hemolysis experiment

Sample name	HC50(mg/L)	DI(％)	L/D	Evaluation of
					Application example 1	31572	92.18	342.50	Has no irritation
Application example 2	19427	92.03	211.09	Has no irritation
					Application example 3	10385	91.73	113.21	Has no irritation
Application example 4	36849	93.94	392.26	Has no irritation
					Application example 5	9032	90.03	100.32	Has no irritation
Application example 6	32016	92.29	346.89	Has no irritation
					Application example 7	31985	92.31	346.50	Has no irritation
Application example 8	31897	91.88	347.16	Has no irritation
					Application example 9	33259	93.47	355.83	Has no irritation
Comparative application example 1	6254	91.38	68.44	Micro-stimulation property
					Comparative application example 2	3979	90.32	44.05	Micro-stimulation property
Comparative application example 3	39873	92.34	431.81	Has no irritation
					Comparative application example 4	6446	90.88	70.93	Micro-stimulation property
Comparative application example 5	4328	90.75	47.69	Micro-stimulation property
					Comparative application example 6	5081	91.91	55.28	Micro-stimulation property

As can be seen from the data in Table 5, the L/D values of the application examples are all greater than 100, and are non-irritating, indicating that the composition has good safety and does not cause irritation to the skin. From the results of the comparative application examples, the essence with the single hydroxy acid component added has slight irritation and poor use experience.

4. Patch test

And (3) performing a patch test on the essence obtained by the application example and the comparative application example.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: taking 20 women as subjects, randomly dividing 15 parts on the left forearm of each volunteer, randomly using the essence prepared in application examples 1-9 and comparative application examples 1-6 on the 15 parts, taking 0.03mL of sample from each essence by using an injector, placing the sample in a medicine chamber of a spot test adhesive tape, longitudinally pasting the spot test adhesive tape with the sample on the normal skin of the divided 15 random parts of the left forearm from the lower part within 5s, and simultaneously lightly pressing the medicine chamber one by one to expel air and uniformly distribute the test substances.

The test site is marked for easy observation. The patch was applied every 24 hours and was removed for a second half hour and examined according to the CTFA guidelines. The patch test was performed 6 times in total, and on day 6 after completion of the skin application, additional examination was performed to observe delayed reactions. The data is compared using the last examination.

The criteria for the skin irritation test are shown in Table 6 below:

TABLE 6

Grade	Symbol	Identification criteria
			0	-	Negative reaction: has no irritation and erythema
1	±	And (3) suspicious reaction: mild erythema
			2	+	Weak positive reaction: erythema
3	++	Strong positive reaction: erythema, papules, blisters
			4	+++	Extremely strong positive reaction: severe edema and bulla

The results of the above skin irritation test are shown in Table 7 below:

TABLE 7

As can be seen from the data in Table 7, the essence prepared in the application example has no obvious irritation to the skin, which indicates that the composition containing hydroxy acid of the present invention has no irritation to the skin and is mild and soothing after being applied to the essence. From the results of the comparative application examples, the essence added with the single hydroxy acid component has slight irritation and poor use experience.

5. Moisture retention type test:

the essence prepared in the application examples of the invention and the essence prepared in the comparative application examples were tested for moisturizing efficacy.

The specific test method comprises the following steps:

according to the evaluation guideline for moisturizing efficacy of cosmetics in the cosmetic industry standard, 20 volunteers are selected, and before the test, the test subject is required to clean the two arms and the two thighs firstly, and then sit in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity room with the temperature of 22 +/-1 ℃ and the humidity of 50 +/-5% for 30min after being cleaned for 2 hours, so that the test subject is kept in a relaxed state.

In the positions of both forearms and both thighs of each volunteer, 15 sites were randomly divided, and the skin moisture content of the corresponding sites was measured at the 15 sites using the essences prepared in application examples 1 to 9 and comparative application examples 1 to 6, respectively at the initial state (T0), at 30min (T30min) and at 2h (T2h), and the experimental results are shown in table 8.

The data in table 8 show that the skin moisture content can be improved by using the essences of the application example and the comparative application example, but the improvement degree of the skin moisture content of the essence prepared by the application example is obviously higher than that of the comparative application example, and the specific moisture increase range can be shown in table 8, which indicates that the composition containing hydroxy acid disclosed by the invention can be applied to the essence to effectively improve the skin moisture content and increase the skin moisture, and can also reduce the loss of the skin moisture and improve the moisture-locking and moisturizing capabilities of the skin.

Compared with the application example 1, the mass ratio of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid in the hydroxy acid-containing composition in the application example 8 and the application example 9 is beyond the mass ratio range of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid, and after the essence prepared by the application example 8 and the application example 9 is applied to the skin, the skin hydration degree is lower than that in the application example 1, namely the improvement range of the skin water content is obviously lower than that in the application example 1, which shows that the skin can be repaired in a better all-round way manner only by controlling the mass ratio of the alpha-hydroxy acid to the beta-hydroxy acid in the hydroxy acid-containing composition in the invention within the range of (2-8): 1.

TABLE 8

The applicant declares that the present invention illustrates the detailed structural features of the present invention through the above embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the above detailed structural features, that is, it does not mean that the present invention must be implemented depending on the above detailed structural features. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modifications of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of selected components of the present invention, additions of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims

1. A hydroxy acid-containing composition, characterized in that the hydroxy acid-containing composition comprises the following components: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and proteases.

2. The hydroxyacid-containing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass ratio of the α -hydroxyacid to the β -hydroxyacid is (2-8): 1.

3. The hydroxyacid-containing composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pH of the hydroxyacid-containing composition is between 3.5 and 4.5.

4. The hydroxyacid-containing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the α -hydroxyacid is any one or a combination of at least two of glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, preferably a combination of glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid and malic acid;

5. The hydroxy acid containing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the protease is any one or a combination of at least two of papain, bromelain or protease dextran, preferably papain;

preferably, the protease is added in an amount of 1-10 wt% based on 100% of the total mass of the hydroxy acid-containing composition.

6. A process for the preparation of a hydroxy acid containing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the process comprises: mixing an alpha-hydroxy acid, a beta-hydroxy acid and a protease to obtain the hydroxy acid-containing composition.

7. The method of claim 6, wherein the temperature of the mixing is 20-50 ℃;

preferably, the mixing time is 1-10 min;

preferably, the mixing stirring speed is 300-800 rpm.

8. A cosmetic comprising the hydroxy acid-containing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

9. Cosmetic product according to claim 8, characterized in that the hydroxy acid-containing composition is added in an amount of 1 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 6%, based on 100% of the total mass of the cosmetic product.

10. The cosmetic according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the cosmetic comprises any one of essence, lotion, cream, lotion, mask or face cream.