CN110067140B - 一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法 - Google Patents

一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法 Download PDF

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CN110067140B
CN110067140B CN201910341293.2A CN201910341293A CN110067140B CN 110067140 B CN110067140 B CN 110067140B CN 201910341293 A CN201910341293 A CN 201910341293A CN 110067140 B CN110067140 B CN 110067140B
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尚润玲
李敏
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Suzhou Danyumei Fiber Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，包括以下步骤：(1)酸处理客户来样，并初步确定混纺织物中涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；(2)前处理混纺织物并染涤纶，水洗、烘干；(3)处理染色后的混纺织物以溶解纤维素纤维，并比较色差直至涤纶部分仿色成功，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；(4)取前处理后的混纺织物若干块，按照(3)确定的涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件先染涤纶，然后染纤维素纤维；(5)比较色差直至纤维素纤维部分仿色成功，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件；本发明色差小，耗时短，有效解决了实际生产中出现的小样仿色难、慢的问题，复样成功率几乎100％；对印染技术人员和染整专业学生学习涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物小样仿色有很大帮助。

Description

一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种织物染色技术。
背景技术
常见的涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物有涤棉混纺织物、涤纶黏胶混纺织物、涤纶天丝混纺织物、涤纶莫代尔混纺织物等,涤纶与纤维素纤维优点互补，织造出的面料既具有涤纶的风格优点又有纤维素纤维织物的长处。具备不易皱折、弹性好、易洗、挺括、滑爽、快干，耐磨性突出，抗静电性能好、吸湿性好、透气性、价格也便宜等优点。为了适应不同消费层次的需求，品种已由不同比例的涤纶与纤维素纤维发展了多个品种。
客户来样为涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物，小样仿色一般是先染涤纶部分，水洗烘干后与客户来样对色，凭经验主观判断所染小样涤纶部分与来样中的涤纶部分色差是否满足客户需求，再套染纤维素纤维，再与客户来样对比二者纤维素纤维成分的色差，再调整染纤维素纤维处方，直至主观认为涤纶和纤维素纤维同色，且仿色混纺织物小样颜色与客户来样颜色基本一致，完成小样仿色。这样不仅耗费时间长，而且对色效果不好，常会出现小样仿色很成功，复样不成功、实际大生产样常会出现与客户来样色差过大，而且难以及时有效纠正，造成影响整个工序进度、延迟交货时间、影响按时完成订单，给企业带来严重经济损失。对于小样仿色的初学者，由于没有生产经验，对染化料的性能和用途掌握的不透切，采用现有的小样仿色方法，很难在短时间里学会染平涤纶纤维和纤维素纤维，难免会造成长期的困惑。
况且，涤纶与纤维素纤维混纺面料有时为了追求某种风格，只要求单染一种纤维，另一种纤维留白(一般为纤维素纤维留白)，在生产当中，也会经常遇到这样的问题，小样仿色看似成功，但大机一染就出现较大色差，不是深了就是浅了，难以快速纠正，造成大量的上述问题，很难通过剥色或加料来实现一次性附样。
发明内容
针对上述现有技术的现状，本发明所要解决的技术问题在于提供一种色差小，耗时短，有效保证了工序的正常进行，避免造成严重经济损失的涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法。
本发明解决上述技术问题所采用的技术方案为：一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)剪取客户来样，用硫酸水溶液溶解棉，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干，用作涤纶对色的标准色样，并初步确定混纺织物中涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(2)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物一块，按照涤纶的染色处方配制染液，并调整染液pH值,利用微波炉染色，染色后水洗、烘干；
(3)裁取小块上述染色后的混纺织物，用硫酸水溶液溶解纤维素纤维，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干；
利用测色仪器测试与标准色样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则涤纶部分仿色成功，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
若两者色差大于0.6时，则重复步骤(2)、(3)，直至两者色差小于0.6，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(4)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物若干块，按照(3)确定的涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件，利用微波炉染色，水洗，取其中一块并按照初步确定的纤维素纤维的染色处方和染色工艺，利用微波炉染色和固色，染色后水洗，皂洗，水洗，烘干；
(5)以客户来样为标样，用测色仪测试上述染完纤维素纤维后的混纺织物与客户来样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则纤维素纤维部分仿色成功，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
当两者色差大于0.6时，另取一块步骤(4)中染好涤纶部分的混纺织物，调整纤维素纤维染色处方和工艺条件再次染色，直至两者色差在0—0.6范围内，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件。
优选地，所述步骤(3)中的硫酸水溶液中水与浓硫酸的质量比为1:1—1:10；溶解纤维素纤维的时间为1—10min；水洗时间为1—15min，水洗温度20—50度；碱液浓度为20％-100％，中和反应时间为1—10min；烘干温度80-100度，烘干时间为1-20min。
优选地，所述步骤(2)中的涤纶染色处方为：分散染料0.1-8％，匀染剂0.1-1.5g/L，螯合分散剂0.1-2.0g/L，浴比为1:4-30，染液pH值为4-7。
优选地，所述步骤(4)中的纤维素纤维染色处方为：染料0.1％-10％，匀染剂1.0g/L，电解质0-32g/L，纯碱0-20g/L；浴比为1:4-20。
优选地，所述染料为活性染料、直接染料、还原染料和硫化染料中的任意一种。
优选地，所述步骤(2)中的微波炉染色时间为1-6min。
优选地，所述步骤(2)和(4)中的微波炉功率均为500-900W。
优选地，所述步骤(4)中的皂洗采用中性皂洗剂1-5g/L，温度95度，皂洗时间1-20min。
与现有技术相比，本发明的优点在于：本发明色差小，耗时短，有效保证了工序的正常进行，避免造成严重经济损失。
具体实施方式
实施例一
涤纶与黏胶混纺织物的小样(涤纶成分52％，黏胶成分48％)
(1)剪取客户来样，用硫酸水溶液溶解棉，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干，用作涤纶对色的标准色样，并初步确定混纺织物中涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(2)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物一块，按照涤纶的染色处方配制染液，并调整染液pH值,利用微波炉染色，染色后水洗、烘干；
(3)裁取小块上述染色后的混纺织物，用硫酸水溶液溶解纤维素纤维，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干；
利用测色仪器测试与标准色样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则涤纶部分仿色成功，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
若两者色差大于0.6时，则重复步骤(2)、(3)，直至两者色差小于0.6，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(4)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物若干块，按照(3)确定的涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件，利用微波炉染色，水洗，取其中一块并按照初步确定的纤维素纤维的染色处方和染色工艺，利用微波炉染色和固色，染色后水洗，皂洗，水洗，烘干；
(5)以客户来样为标样，用测色仪测试上述染完纤维素纤维后的混纺织物与客户来样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则纤维素纤维部分仿色成功，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
当两者色差大于0.6时，另取一块步骤(4)中染好涤纶部分的混纺织物，调整纤维素纤维染色处方和工艺条件再次染色，直至两者色差在0—0.6范围内，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件。
步骤(3)中的硫酸水溶液中水与浓硫酸的质量比为1:1—1:10；溶解纤维素纤维的时间为1—10min；水洗时间为1—15min，水洗温度20—50度；碱液浓度为20％-100％，中和反应时间为1—10min；烘干温度80-100度，烘干时间为1-20min。
步骤(2)中的涤纶染色处方为：分散染料0.1-8％，匀染剂0.1-1.5g/L，螯合分散剂0.1-2.0g/L，浴比为1:4-30，染液pH值为4-7。
步骤(4)中的纤维素纤维染色处方为：染料0.1％-10％，匀染剂1.0g/L，电解质0-32g/L，纯碱0-20g/L；浴比为1:4-20；上述染料为活性染料、直接染料、还原染料和硫化染料中的任意一种。
步骤(2)中的微波炉染色时间为1-6min。
步骤(2)和(4)中的微波炉功率均为500-900W。
步骤(4)中的皂洗采用中性皂洗剂1-5g/L，温度95度，皂洗时间1-20min。
按照上述(3)确定的涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件，以及上述(5)确定的黏胶纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件，进行后续的复样和大样生产。
实施例二：
涤纶与棉混纺织物的小样仿色(涤纶成分60％，棉成分40％)
(1)剪一小块客户来样(客户来样为棉纤维素留白染色样)，用硫酸水溶液溶解棉，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干，用作涤纶对色的标准色样，分析该色样，初步确定涤纶的染色处方和工艺条件：分散染料1.2％，匀染剂2.0g/L,螯合分散剂1.8g/L；
(2)取与来样规格相同的(或者与实际生产大样规格相同)前处理后的织物一块(5克)，按照初定涤纶的染色处方并调整染液pH值为5.5，利用微波炉染色5min；
(3)染色后水洗，烘干，用硫酸水溶液溶液溶解棉纤维，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干，利用测色仪器测试(或者目测)该试样与上述涤纶标准色样的色差；
(4)以涤纶标准色样为标样，测试色差为1.31，调整染涤纶处方再次染色，直至两者色差小于0.6，即可认为同色，确定涤纶的染色处方：分散染料1.26％，匀染剂1.0g/L，螯合分散剂1.8g/L，调整染液pH值为5.5，利用微波炉染色5min。小样仿色结束。
依据实施例一和例二的仿色小样处方染色后的生产大样的水洗牢度、汗渍牢度、干湿摩擦牢度和日晒牢度如下：
表1实施例一和例二各项色牢度
Figure BDA0002040778190000061
表中1，耐汗渍色牢度按GB/T 3922-1997《纺织品色牢度耐汗渍色牢度》测试。耐摩擦色牢度按GB/T 3920-1997《纺织品色牢度耐牢度》测试。皂洗牢度按GB/T 3921.2-1997《纺织品色牢度耐皂洗牢度》测试。日晒牢度按美标AATCC16.3《耐光色牢度》在耐光牢度仪上晒20h后按标准卡评级。
最后应说明的是：以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案，而非对其限制；尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，本领域的技术人员应当理解，其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行同等替换；而这些修改或者替换，并不使相应技术方案的本质脱离本发明各实施例技术方案的精神与范围。

Claims (8)

1.一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)剪取客户来样，用硫酸水溶液溶解棉，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干，用作涤纶对色的标准色样，并初步确定混纺织物中涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(2)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物一块，按照涤纶的染色处方配制染液，并调整染液pH值,利用微波炉染色，染色后水洗、烘干；
(3)裁取小块上述染色后的混纺织物，用硫酸水溶液溶解纤维素纤维，水洗，碱中和至中性，烘干；
利用测色仪器测试与标准色样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则涤纶部分仿色成功，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
若两者色差大于0.6时，则重复步骤(2)、(3)，直至两者色差小于0.6，确定涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
(4)取重量为5克且与来样规格相同的前处理后的混纺织物若干块，按照(3)确定的涤纶部分的染色处方和工艺条件，利用微波炉染色，水洗，取其中一块并按照初步确定的纤维素纤维的染色处方和染色工艺，利用微波炉染色和固色，染色后水洗，皂洗，水洗，烘干；
(5)以客户来样为标样，用测色仪测试上述染完纤维素纤维后的混纺织物与客户来样的色差，若两者色差小于0.6，则纤维素纤维部分仿色成功，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件；
当两者色差大于0.6时，另取一块步骤(4)中染好涤纶部分的混纺织物，调整纤维素纤维染色处方和工艺条件再次染色，直至两者色差在0—0.6范围内，确定纤维素纤维部分的染色处方和工艺条件。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(3)中的硫酸水溶液中水与浓硫酸的质量比为1:1—1:10；溶解纤维素纤维的时间为1—10min；水洗时间为1—15min，水洗温度20—50度；碱液浓度为20％-100％，中和反应时间为1—10min；烘干温度80-100度，烘干时间为1-20min。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(2)中的涤纶染色处方为：分散染料0.1-8％，匀染剂0.1-1.5g/L，螯合分散剂0.1-2.0g/L，浴比为1:4-30，染液pH值为4-7。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(4)中的纤维素纤维染色处方为：染料0.1％-10％，匀染剂1.0g/L，电解质0-32g/L，纯碱0-20g/L；浴比为1:4-20。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述染料为活性染料、直接染料、还原染料和硫化染料中的任意一种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(2)中的微波炉染色时间为1-6min。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(2)和(4)中的微波炉功率均为500-900W。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种涤纶/纤维素纤维混纺织物的小样仿色方法，其特征在于，所述步骤(4)中的皂洗采用中性皂洗剂1-5g/L，温度95度，皂洗时间1-20min。
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