CN109998208A - A kind of reverse side do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method - Google Patents

A kind of reverse side do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109998208A
CN109998208A CN201910207954.2A CN201910207954A CN109998208A CN 109998208 A CN109998208 A CN 109998208A CN 201910207954 A CN201910207954 A CN 201910207954A CN 109998208 A CN109998208 A CN 109998208A
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China
Prior art keywords
seam
adhesive tape
reverse side
garment piece
joint seal
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CN201910207954.2A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
左洪芬
宋向前
左洪博
安凌中
王吉祥
高爱波
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Yantai Nanshan University
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Yantai Nanshan University
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Priority to CN201910207954.2A priority Critical patent/CN109998208A/en
Publication of CN109998208A publication Critical patent/CN109998208A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/02Jackets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24Hems; Seams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/04Joining garment parts or blanks by gluing or welding ; Gluing presses

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention disclose a kind of reverse side do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method, comprise the following steps: a) suturing garment piece one and garment piece two with flat seam machine;B) two latasuture parts are trimmed, then carry out splitting seam point pressing clothes;C) adhesive tape band micelle one is made adhesive tape intermediate alignment sealing, scalds adhesive tape using sealing machine for hot air slit orifice facing towards seam part.Compared with prior art, operation of the present invention technique is efficient and convenient;It stitches part after joint seal part to be hidden completely, clothes reverse side does not reveal seam part, and Western-style clothes internal layer is beautiful;Seam part is fixed between garment piece and adhesive tape, and docile property is preferable, and snugness of fit is preferable;Not only there is suture fastness in stitching portion, and after scalding adhesive tape, adhesive tape sticks together with garment piece, seam part, and stitching portion increases bonding fastness, and the tearing toughness of stitching portion increases, and is not easy to stretch tight and opens, tears, improves and wear safety.

Description

一种反面不露缝份的无里女西装封缝份方法A method for sealing seam allowances of liningless women's suits without revealing seam allowances on the reverse side

技术领域technical field

本发明涉及服装加工,具体是一种反面不露缝份的无里女西装封缝份方法。The invention relates to garment processing, in particular to a method for sealing seam allowances in women's suits with no lining without revealing seam allowances on the reverse side.

背景技术Background technique

由于春夏季穿着的女式西装常无衬里,其衣片拼接缝反面缝份外露,一方面影响穿着舒适性,一方面影响西装内层美观性。此部位需要进行封缝份技术处理,其目的是使服装内层光滑美观,以保证服装内层的舒适性和美观性。Because women's suits worn in spring and summer are often unlined, the seams on the reverse side of the stitching seams are exposed, which affects the wearing comfort on the one hand and the aesthetics of the inner layer of the suit on the other hand. This part needs to be treated with seam sealing technology, the purpose is to make the inner layer of the garment smooth and beautiful, so as to ensure the comfort and beauty of the inner layer of the garment.

目前采用的封缝份工艺有如下两种:一、使用同色缝纫线对衣片进行包缝。此种封缝份工艺操作快捷,但服装内层外露缝纫线,美观性较差,工艺略显粗糙,不适用于西装类等中高档服装。二、使用同色滚布牙对衣片进行滚边。此种封缝份工艺大大提高了西装档次与西装内层美观性,但滚边工艺较为精细,尤其对曲度比较大的女西装裁片边缘来说,对滚边的技术要求较高;另外滚边后缝份厚度增加,影响拼接缝处的穿着舒适性。There are two types of seam-sealing techniques currently used: 1. Use the same color sewing thread to sew the garment piece. This kind of seam sealing process is quick to operate, but the inner layer of the garment exposes the sewing thread, which has poor aesthetics and a slightly rough process, which is not suitable for medium and high-end garments such as suits. 2. Use the same color rolling teeth to roll the garment piece. This kind of seam sealing process greatly improves the grade of the suit and the aesthetics of the inner layer of the suit, but the piping process is relatively fine, especially for the edges of the women's suit pieces with relatively large curvature, the technical requirements for piping are higher; in addition, after piping The thickness of the seam increases, which affects the wearing comfort of the seam.

以上两种封缝份工艺都无法将缝份固定起来,缝份仍处于自由状态,而无里女西装多为贴身穿着,缝份与皮肤直接接触,势必会影响舒适性。另外以上两种封缝份工艺,拼接处多为平缝一道线,加之夏季服装面料较薄,其拼接处的牢固性欠佳,存在缝口绷裂、撕裂的隐患。The above two seam seam sealing processes cannot fix the seam allowance, and the seam allowance is still in a free state. Most women's suits are worn close to the body, and the seam allowance is in direct contact with the skin, which will inevitably affect the comfort. In addition, the above two seam sealing processes are mostly flat seams at the splicing point. In addition, the summer clothing fabric is thin, and the firmness of the splicing part is not good, and there is a hidden danger of cracking and tearing of the seam.

发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

为解决现有无里女西装内层拼接处的缝份外露的问题,本发明公开一种特殊的封缝份工艺,使拼接处缝份掩藏起来,且使得拼接处的面料层数减少,轻薄美观,且提高拼接牢度,以保证穿着时的美观性、舒适性与安全性。本发明采取的技术方案是:In order to solve the problem of the exposed seam allowance at the inner layer splicing of the existing liningless women's suit, the present invention discloses a special seam sealing process, which hides the seam allowance at the splicing area, reduces the number of layers of fabrics at the splicing area, and makes it light and thin. Beautiful, and improve the splicing fastness to ensure the beauty, comfort and safety when wearing. The technical scheme adopted by the present invention is:

一种反面不露缝份的无里女西装封缝份方法,包含如下步骤:A method for sealing the seam allowance of a liningless women's suit with no seam allowance on the reverse side, comprising the following steps:

a)将衣片一和衣片二用平缝机缝合;a) Sewing the garment piece 1 and the garment piece 2 with a lockstitch machine;

b)修剪两侧缝份,然后进行劈缝分烫平服;b) Trim the seam allowances on both sides, and then split the seam and iron the garment;

c) 将胶条带胶粒一面朝向缝份,使胶条中间对准缝口,采用热风缝口密封机烫胶条。c) Place the rubber side of the rubber strip towards the seam, align the middle of the rubber strip with the seam, and use a hot air seam sealing machine to iron the rubber strip.

进一步地,当衣片一和衣片二为较薄的西装面料时,修剪两侧缝份时使得上层缝份比下层缝份宽,双层缝份共同向较窄一侧倒烫。Further, when the first and second garment parts are made of thinner suit fabrics, when trimming the seam allowances on both sides, the upper seam allowance is wider than the lower seam allowance, and the double seam allowances are reversed to the narrower side together.

进一步地,用薄有纺衬替代所述胶条,用有纺衬熨烫工艺替代热风缝口密封机烫胶工艺。Further, the rubber strip is replaced by a thin woven lining, and the hot air seam sealing machine ironing process is replaced by a woven lining ironing process.

进一步地,胶条颜色与面料颜色为同色系,胶条厚度:0.8毫米-1.2毫米,胶条宽度:1.4厘米-2厘米,胶条成分:聚氨酯,水洗温度:100℃以下;热风缝口密封机参数设定:热风温度500-600℃,黏合速度:6-8米/分钟。Further, the color of the adhesive strip is the same color as the fabric color, the thickness of the adhesive strip: 0.8 mm-1.2 mm, the width of the adhesive strip: 1.4 cm-2 cm, the composition of the adhesive strip: polyurethane, the washing temperature: below 100 ℃; the hot air seam is sealed Machine parameter setting: hot air temperature 500-600 ℃, bonding speed: 6-8 m/min.

与现有技术相比,本发明操作工艺快捷方便;封缝份后缝份完全被隐藏,衣服反面不露缝份,西装内层美观;缝份被固定在衣片和胶条之间,服帖性较好,穿着舒适性较好;拼接处不但有缝合牢度,烫胶条后,胶条与衣片、缝份均黏合在一起,拼接处增加了黏合牢度,拼接处的抗撕裂强度增大,不易绷开、撕裂,提高了穿着安全性。Compared with the prior art, the operation process of the present invention is fast and convenient; the seam allowance is completely hidden after the seam allowance is sealed, the back side of the clothes does not reveal the seam allowance, and the inner layer of the suit is beautiful; Good performance and wearing comfort; not only does the splicing have stitching fastness, but after ironing the adhesive strip, the adhesive strip is bonded to the garment piece and seam allowance, which increases the adhesive fastness at the splicing part and the tear resistance at the splicing part. The strength is increased, it is not easy to stretch and tear, and the wearing safety is improved.

附图说明Description of drawings

图1是实施例1的方法示意图。FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the method of Example 1. FIG.

图2是实施例2的方法示意图。FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the method of Example 2. FIG.

具体实施方式Detailed ways

实施例1,一种反面不露缝份的较厚无里女西装封缝份方法,参照附图1,包含如下步骤:Embodiment 1, a method for sealing the seam allowance of a thicker and lined women's suit with no seam allowance on the reverse side, with reference to accompanying drawing 1, comprises the following steps:

a) 衣片一1和衣片2平缝机缝合;a) Part 1 and Part 2 are sewn with a lockstitch machine;

b) 在反面将衣片一1和衣片2两侧1厘米宽的缝份分烫烫平,将两侧均缝份修剪至0.5厘米;b) Iron the 1 cm wide seam allowances on both sides of garment piece 1 and garment piece 2 on the reverse side, and trim the seam allowances on both sides to 0.5 cm;

c)将1.5厘米宽的胶条3带胶粒一面朝缝份一侧熨烫,使胶条黏合到缝份和衣片一1、衣片2的反面,将两侧缝份均隐藏在胶条下。胶条颜色与面料颜色为同色系,以保证西装内层整体色调一致,保证美观性,胶条厚度1毫米,胶条成分聚氨酯,水洗温度:100℃以下;热风缝口密封机参数设定:热风温度500-600℃,黏合速度:6-8米/分钟。胶条的宽度和厚度不是一成不变的,要随着面料厚度的增大而选择较宽、厚的胶条,以烫胶条后能够完全掩盖住且牢固封住缝份为准。c) Iron the 1.5 cm wide adhesive strip 3 with the rubber granules on the side of the seam allowance, so that the adhesive strip is glued to the seam allowance and the reverse side of the garment piece 1 and garment piece 2, and hide the seam allowance on both sides in the seam allowance. under the tape. The color of the adhesive strip is the same color as the fabric color to ensure that the overall tone of the inner layer of the suit is consistent and aesthetics. The thickness of the adhesive strip is 1 mm, and the adhesive strip is made of polyurethane. Hot air temperature 500-600℃, bonding speed: 6-8m/min. The width and thickness of the adhesive strip are not static. It is necessary to choose a wider and thicker adhesive strip as the thickness of the fabric increases, so that the seam allowance can be completely covered and firmly sealed after the adhesive strip is ironed.

借鉴户外服装常用的高压烫胶条封口工艺,运用到无里女西装中。采用热风缝口密封机和胶条完成封缝份工艺。此封缝份工艺的特点:操作工艺快捷方便;封缝份后缝份完全被隐藏,衣服反面不露缝份,西装内层美观;缝份被固定在衣片和胶条之间,服帖性较好,穿着舒适性较好;拼接处不但有缝合牢度,烫胶条后,胶条与衣片、缝份均黏合在一起,拼接处增加了黏合牢度,拼接处的抗撕裂强度增大,不易绷开、撕裂,提高了穿着安全性。Drawing on the sealing technology of high-pressure hot glue strips commonly used in outdoor clothing, it is applied to women's suits. Use hot air seam sealing machine and adhesive strip to complete the seam sealing process. The characteristics of this seam sealing process: the operation process is fast and convenient; the seam allowance is completely hidden after the seam allowance is sealed, the seam allowance is not exposed on the reverse side of the clothes, and the inner layer of the suit is beautiful; Better, better wearing comfort; not only the stitching fastness at the splicing, but after the glue strip is ironed, the glue strip and the garment piece and the seam are bonded together, the splicing part increases the adhesion fastness, and the tear resistance at the splicing part Enlarged, not easy to stretch and tear, and improve wearing safety.

实施例2,一种反面不露缝份的较薄无里女西装封缝份方法,参照附图2,其他同实施例1,不同的是修剪两侧缝份时使得上层缝份比下层缝份宽,上层缝份修剪至0.7厘米,下层缝份修剪至0.5厘米,双层缝份共同向较窄一侧倒烫。如此上下层缝份可呈现梯度厚度递减,保证烫胶条后拼接处的平服性。Embodiment 2, a method for sealing the seam allowance of a thin and lining women's suit with no seam allowance on the reverse side, with reference to accompanying drawing 2, the other is the same as Embodiment 1, the difference is that when trimming the seam allowances on both sides, the upper layer seam allowance is higher than the lower layer seam allowance. Width of the seam, trim the upper seam allowance to 0.7 cm, and trim the lower seam allowance to 0.5 cm. Double-layer seam allowances are poured together to the narrower side. In this way, the seam allowance of the upper and lower layers can show a gradient thickness decrease, which ensures the flatness of the splicing after the hot glue strip.

实施例3,一种反面不露缝份的较低档无里女西装封缝份方法,其他同实施例1,不同的是用薄有纺衬替代所述胶条,用有纺衬熨烫工艺替代热风缝口密封机烫胶工艺。胶条的防水性能、黏合性能均比有纺衬较强,但较有纺衬成本较高且需要热风缝口密封机来完成黏合,对于中低档无里女西装的生产或者手工作坊,也可采用一般熨烫设备烫有纺衬来达到类似此工艺的效果。Embodiment 3, a method for sealing the seam allowance of a lower-grade liningless women's suit with no seam allowance on the reverse side. The process replaces the hot air seam sealing machine hot glue process. The waterproof performance and bonding performance of the adhesive strip are stronger than those of the spun lining, but the cost of the spun lining is higher and the hot air seam sealing machine is required to complete the bonding. Use general ironing equipment to iron the spun lining to achieve an effect similar to this process.

Claims (4)

1. a kind of reverse side do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method, which is characterized in that comprise the following steps:
A) garment piece one (1) and garment piece two (2) are sutured with flat seam machine;
B) it then carries out splitting and stitches point boiling hot, a two latasuture parts of trimming;
C) adhesive tape (3) band micelle one is made adhesive tape intermediate alignment sealing, scalds glue using sealing machine for hot air slit orifice facing towards seam part Item.
2. a kind of reverse side according to claim 1 do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method, which is characterized in that when When garment piece one (1) and garment piece two (2) are relatively thin suit facing material, make upper layer stitch part when trimming two latasuture parts and stitch part than lower layer Width, bilayer seam part are fallen to scald to relatively narrow side jointly.
3. a kind of reverse side according to claim 1 do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method, which is characterized in that use Bao Youfang lining substitutes the adhesive tape (3), scalds adhesive process with there is spinning lining ironing technology to substitute sealing machine for hot air slit orifice.
4. a kind of reverse side according to claim 1 do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method, which is characterized in that glue Color and fabric color are same colour system, adhesive tape thickness: 0.8 millimeter -1.2 millimeters, adhesive tape width: and 1.4 centimetres -2 centimetres, adhesive tape Ingredient: polyurethane, washing temperature: 100 DEG C or less;Sealing machine for hot air slit orifice parameter setting: 500-600 DEG C of hot blast temperature, bonding Speed: 6-8 ms/min.
CN201910207954.2A 2019-03-19 2019-03-19 A kind of reverse side do not reveal seam part without inner woman suit joint seal part method Pending CN109998208A (en)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112315087A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-02-05 上海之禾企业发展有限公司 Primary color flax lining-free men's suit and manufacturing method thereof
CN113331519A (en) * 2021-07-22 2021-09-03 于军 Down jacket splicing process
CN115736396A (en) * 2022-11-22 2023-03-07 报喜鸟控股股份有限公司 Western-style clothes and manufacturing process thereof

Citations (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN202425612U (en) * 2011-12-05 2012-09-12 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 Half-lining suit

Patent Citations (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN202425612U (en) * 2011-12-05 2012-09-12 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 Half-lining suit

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112315087A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-02-05 上海之禾企业发展有限公司 Primary color flax lining-free men's suit and manufacturing method thereof
CN112315087B (en) * 2020-11-18 2022-08-12 上海之禾企业发展有限公司 Primary color flax lining-free men's suit and manufacturing method thereof
CN113331519A (en) * 2021-07-22 2021-09-03 于军 Down jacket splicing process
CN113331519B (en) * 2021-07-22 2022-04-01 于军 Down jacket splicing process
CN115736396A (en) * 2022-11-22 2023-03-07 报喜鸟控股股份有限公司 Western-style clothes and manufacturing process thereof

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Application publication date: 20190712

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