CN109820752B - Biological moisturizing skin care product based on ceramide - Google Patents
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Abstract
The invention discloses a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 7.4-7.7 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6.5-6.7 parts of stearic monoglyceride, 4.8-5.1 parts of lecithin, 5.3-5.6 parts of caprylic triglyceride, 1.2-1.3 parts of hydrogenated vegetable oil, 1.3-1.4 parts of bio-based sunscreen whitening agent, 2.1-2.2 parts of polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, 0.8-0.9 part of whitening humectant, 0.2-0.4 part of triethanolamine and 57-59 parts of deionized water. The troxerate group contained in the whitening humectant prepared by the invention can inhibit the activity of the dopachrome inhibitory enzyme, further influences the size structure and the type of melanin molecules, and realizes the effect of keeping the melanin activity, and meanwhile, the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent contains a large amount of phenolic hydroxyl groups, can keep the activity of the tyrosinase through the phenolic hydroxyl groups, and realizes the whitening effect through the synergistic effect of the phenolic hydroxyl groups and the tyrosinase.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of preparation and application of ceramide, and relates to a biological moisturizing skin care product based on ceramide.
Background
The skin aging is caused by polymerization of ossein in skin, but under the irradiation of ultraviolet light, the reaction speed is greatly accelerated, the skin aging is accelerated, the free radical theory considers that the skin aging is the result of the generation and elimination of free radicals, the formation of oxygen free radicals can be increased under pathology or ultraviolet irradiation, a series of changes of the skin are caused, such as wrinkles caused by the loss of elasticity and breakage of skin collagen fibers and elastic fibers, melanin generation and color spot generation, and the like, the rutin is a natural biological base substance extracted from ruta leaves, tobacco leaves, Chinese dates, apricot, orange peels, tomatoes, buckwheat flowers and the like, has extremely strong absorption effect on ultraviolet rays and X rays, and has extremely high sterilization, anti-inflammatory and antiviral performances, but the water solubility is poor, and because the main component in the skin care product is water, the skin care product is difficult to be directly applied to the skin care product, and the hydrophobic group extrudes the moisture in the skin when the hydrophobic group is directly contacted with the skin, so that the skin is easy to lack of water.
Rutin is directly added into the existing skin care product, and a humectant is added for realizing moisture retention, so that although the moisture retention in a short time is realized, the rutin on the skin can discharge the moisture absorbed in the humectant again, and further the problem of water shortage of the skin is caused, so that the moisture retention time of the skin care product is not long due to the fact that the rutin is directly added.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a biological moisturizing skin care product based on ceramide, which directly adopts biological extracts of ceramide, rutin and kojic acid as auxiliary agents in the skin care product, and simultaneously, the ceramide and the rutin directly react to prepare a biological-based sunscreen whitening agent which can be well dissolved in water and can be fully contacted with the skin to realize good absorption of the skin, and simultaneously, because the sunscreen whitening agent contains a large amount of phenolic hydroxyl groups, the activity of the neuraminidase can be inhibited, so that the generation of melanin is always realized, the whitening effect is realized, the sunscreen whitening agent can resist high-efficiency ultraviolet rays, simultaneously, the black and white effect can be realized, the moisturizing effect is higher, the moisturizing effect is more durable, further, the problem that the existing skin care product is directly added with rutin, and a moisturizing agent is added for moisturizing, although the short-time moisturizing is realized, however, rutin on the skin can discharge the moisture absorbed in the moisturizing agent again, so that the problem of water shortage of the skin is caused, and the like, so that the direct addition of rutin easily causes the long moisturizing time of the skin care product.
The purpose of the invention can be realized by the following technical scheme:
a biological moisturizing skin care product based on ceramide comprises the following components in parts by weight:
7.4-7.7 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6.5-6.7 parts of stearic monoglyceride, 4.8-5.1 parts of lecithin, 5.3-5.6 parts of caprylic triglyceride, 1.2-1.3 parts of hydrogenated vegetable oil, 1.3-1.4 parts of bio-based sunscreen whitening agent, 2.1-2.2 parts of polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, 0.8-0.9 part of whitening humectant, 0.2-0.4 part of triethanolamine and 57-59 parts of deionized water;
the specific preparation process of the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent is as follows:
step 1: weighing a certain amount of ceramide, adding the ceramide into diethyl ether, simultaneously adding a certain amount of sodium carbonate into the diethyl ether, uniformly stirring and mixing, keeping the temperature at 40-45 ℃, dropwise adding peroxyacetic acid into the mixture, controlling the dropwise adding speed to be 7-8mL/min, stirring and reacting at constant temperature for 5-6h after the dropwise adding is completed, then filtering, and distilling the filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain epoxidized ceramide; the ceramide contains unsaturated alkylene group, can carry out epoxidation reaction under the action of peroxyacetic acid to generate epoxy group, and because a large amount of acetic acid and water contained in the solution can carry out ring-opening reaction with epoxy compound again, and because insoluble sodium carbonate is added, the sodium carbonate is alkaline, and the generation speed of the acetic acid in the product is controlled by controlling the dropping speed of the peroxyacetic acid, the generated acetic acid can react with the sodium carbonate, so that the generation of the ring-opening reaction is inhibited; wherein the ratio of the amount of the ceramide, the peroxyacetic acid and the sodium carbonate is 1: 1.08-1.1: adding 0.81-0.83;
step 2: adding rutin into dimethyl sulfoxide, stirring and dissolving, then adding the epoxidized ceramide prepared in the step 1, stirring and reacting for 2-3h at normal temperature, then carrying out reduced pressure distillation, then adding fractions into cold water, stirring and dissolving, then centrifuging, and simultaneously drying supernate to obtain the bio-based sun-screening and whitening agent, wherein the molar ratio of the rutin to the epoxidized ceramide is 1: 1, the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent is easy to dissolve in water, only one phenolic hydroxyl group in rutin can rapidly react with the epoxy group in epoxy ceramide due to the steric hindrance effect, and other phenolic hydroxyl groups have harsh reaction conditions or do not react at all, so that the ceramide is introduced into a rutin structure, and the ceramide has high moisturizing effect and is very easy to dissolve in water, so that a hydrophobic group is changed into a hydrophilic hydroxyl group after the epoxy group is subjected to ring opening, hydrophilic sites are increased, the water solubility is improved, a large amount of alcoholic hydroxyl groups can be contained in the rutin, and the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent can be well dissolved in water through the synergistic effect of the two, meanwhile, the sunscreen whitening agent contains a large amount of phenolic hydroxyl groups, so that the activity of the neuraminidase can be inhibited, the generation of melanin is continued, the whitening effect is realized, the sunscreen whitening agent can resist high-efficiency ultraviolet rays, the black and white effect can be realized, the moisturizing effect is high, and the moisturizing effect is more durable;
the specific preparation process of the whitening humectant is as follows: adding trimethylglycine into a thionyl chloride solution, heating to 75-80 ℃, carrying out reflux reaction for 5-6h, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain a product A; wherein the mass ratio of trimethylglycine to thionyl chloride is 1: 2.1-2.2; secondly, adding the product A into a reaction container, adding pyridine, kojic acid and triethylamine into the product A, stirring the mixture at normal temperature for reaction for 5 to 6 hours, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain the whitening humectant; wherein the mass ratio of the product A to kojic acid is 2.08-2.11: 1, simultaneously adding 110mL of pyridine 100-one and triethylamine 0.85-0.87mol into each mol of the product A; trimethyl glycine and kojic acid enter a kojic acid chain after reacting, and the trimethyl glycine has extremely high water absorption performance, so that the water absorption and water retention of the whitening humectant is improved, and meanwhile, a quaternary ammonium salt group in the trimethyl glycine has certain antibacterial performance, so that the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of the whitening humectant can be realized, and the kojic acid group in the whitening humectant can inhibit the activity of a dopachrome inhibitory enzyme, so that the size, structure and type of melanin molecules are influenced, the effect of always keeping melanin activity is realized, and the whitening effect can be realized through the synergistic effect of the trimethyl glycine and the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent;
a preparation method of a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product comprises the following steps:
step one, adding a bio-based sun-screening whitening agent, a whitening humectant and triethanolamine into deionized water, stirring and dissolving, heating to 90-95 ℃, and sterilizing for 10-15min to obtain a component A;
secondly, adding polydimethylsiloxane, stearic acid monoglyceride, lecithin, caprylic triglyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil and polyoxyethylene lauryl ether into a stirring container, heating to 85-90 ℃, stirring and mixing to obtain a uniform and transparent liquid phase to obtain a component B;
and thirdly, adding the component A into a homogenizer, stirring vigorously, keeping the stirring temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the component B while stirring, stirring for 5-10min after adding, slowly cooling to 45-50 ℃, and continuously stirring for 3-5min to obtain the moisturizing skin care product.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention directly adopts ceramide, rutin and kojic acid biological extracts as the auxiliary agents in the skin care product, and simultaneously, the ceramide and the rutin directly react, the prepared bio-based sun-screening and whitening agent can be well dissolved in water and can be fully contacted with the skin to realize good absorption of the skin, simultaneously, as the sun-screening and whitening agent contains a large amount of phenolic hydroxyl groups, the activity of the neuraminidase can be inhibited, the generation of melanin is continued all the time, the whitening effect is realized, the sun-screening and whitening agent can resist high-efficiency ultraviolet rays, the black and white effect can be realized, the moisturizing effect is higher, the moisturizing effect is more durable, the problem that the rutin is directly added into the existing skin care product is effectively solved, the moisturizing agent is added in order to realize moisturizing, although the moisturizing in a short time is realized, the rutin on the skin can discharge the moisture absorbed in the moisturizing agent again, further causing the problems of water shortage of the skin and the like, so that the direct addition of rutin easily causes the problem that the moisturizing time of the skin care product is not long.
According to the invention, trimethylglycine and kojic acid react and then enter a kojic acid chain, and the trimethylglycine has extremely high water absorption performance, so that the water absorption and water retention of the whitening humectant are improved, and meanwhile, a quaternary ammonium salt group in the trimethylglycine has certain antibacterial performance, so that the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of the whitening humectant can be realized.
The troxerate group contained in the whitening humectant prepared by the invention can inhibit the activity of the dopachrome inhibitory enzyme, further influences the size structure and the type of melanin molecules, and realizes the effect of keeping the melanin activity, and meanwhile, the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent contains a large amount of phenolic hydroxyl groups, can keep the activity of the tyrosinase through the phenolic hydroxyl groups, and realizes the whitening effect through the synergistic effect of the phenolic hydroxyl groups and the tyrosinase.
Drawings
In order to facilitate understanding for those skilled in the art, the present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 1 is a structural formula of the epoxidation reaction of ceramide in accordance with the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a reaction structure of the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a reaction structure of the whitening moisturizer of the invention.
Detailed Description
Referring to FIGS. 1-3, the following embodiments are illustrated in detail:
example 1:
the specific preparation process of the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent is as follows:
step 1: weighing 53.7g of ceramide, adding the ceramide into 150mL of diethyl ether, simultaneously adding 17.1g of sodium carbonate, stirring and mixing uniformly, keeping the temperature at 40-45 ℃, dropwise adding 8.2g of peracetic acid into the mixture, controlling the dropwise adding speed at 7-8mL/min, stirring and reacting at constant temperature for 5-6h after the dropwise adding is completed, then filtering, and distilling the filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain epoxidized ceramide;
step 2: adding 6.1g of rutin into 20mL of dimethyl sulfoxide, stirring and dissolving, then adding 5.51g of epoxidized ceramide prepared in the step 1, stirring and reacting for 2-3h at normal temperature, then carrying out reduced pressure distillation, then adding the fraction into cold water, stirring and dissolving, then centrifuging, and simultaneously drying the supernatant to obtain the bio-based sun-screening whitening agent.
The specific preparation process of the whitening humectant is as follows: adding 11.7g of trimethylglycine into 25g of thionyl chloride solution, heating to 75-80 ℃, carrying out reflux reaction for 5-6h, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain a product A; ② adding 8.34g of the product A into a reaction vessel, simultaneously adding 33mL of pyridine, 4.73g of kojic acid and 2.86g of triethylamine, stirring at normal temperature for reaction for 5-6h, and then distilling under reduced pressure to obtain the whitening humectant.
Example 2:
the specific preparation process of the whitening humectant is as follows: adding 11.7g of trimethylglycine into 25g of thionyl chloride solution, heating to 75-80 ℃, carrying out reflux reaction for 5-6h, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain a product A; ② adding 4.17g of the product A into a reaction vessel, simultaneously adding 33mL of pyridine, 4.73g of kojic acid and 2.86g of triethylamine, stirring at normal temperature for reaction for 5-6h, and then distilling under reduced pressure to obtain the whitening humectant.
Example 3:
a preparation method of a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product comprises the following steps:
step one, adding 1.3g of the bio-based sun-screening whitening agent prepared in the embodiment 1, 0.8g of the whitening humectant prepared in the embodiment 1 and 0.2g of triethanolamine into 57g of deionized water, stirring and dissolving, heating to 90-95 ℃, and sterilizing for 10-15min to obtain a component A;
secondly, adding 7.4g of polydimethylsiloxane, 6.5g of stearic acid monoglyceride, 4.8g of lecithin, 5.3g of caprylic triglyceride, 1.2g of hydrogenated vegetable oil and 2.1g of polyoxyethylene lauryl ether into a stirring container, heating to 85-90 ℃, stirring and mixing to obtain a uniform and transparent liquid phase to obtain a component B;
and thirdly, adding the component A into a homogenizer, stirring vigorously, keeping the stirring temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the component B while stirring, stirring for 5-10min after adding, slowly cooling to 45-50 ℃, and continuously stirring for 3-5min to obtain the moisturizing skin care product.
Example 4:
a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product was prepared in the same manner as in example 3, except that the whitening moisturizer prepared in example 1 used in example 3 was replaced with the whitening moisturizer prepared in example 2.
Example 5:
a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product is prepared in the same process as in example 3, the whitening moisturizing agent prepared in example 1 used in example 3 is replaced by a mixture of rutin and ceramide, wherein the ratio of the rutin to the ceramide in terms of the amounts of the substances is 1: mixing the components in the ratio.
Example 6:
a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product was prepared in the same manner as in example 3, except that the whitening moisturizing agent prepared in example 1 used in example 3 was replaced with kojic acid.
Example 7:
a ceramide-based biological moisturizing skin care product was prepared in the same manner as in example 3, except that no whitening moisturizer was added.
Example 8:
taking 1mL of the moisturizing skin care products prepared in examples 3-7, adding 0.2mL of water, mixing uniformly, sucking 1 drop by a rubber head dropper respectively, dripping on the skin of the back of the hand, then uniformly smearing in a marking range, measuring the moisture content before smearing and 10min, 30min, 60min and 120min after smearing by a digital skin moisture detector, and then calculating the moisture increase value, wherein the results are shown in Table 1;
TABLE 1 moisturizing skin care products prepared in examples 3-7 have increased water content after application for various periods of time%
As can be seen from table 1, after the moisturizing skin care product prepared in example 3 is applied for a long time, the moisture increase value of the skin is large, and the reduction rate is slow, the moisture absorption performance of the whitening moisturizing agent added in example 4 is reduced due to a small amount of quaternary ammonium salt, and the moisture increase value of the whitening skin care product is affected, whereas in example 5, rutin and ceramide are directly added, although the moisturizing agent is present, so that short-time moisturizing is achieved, the rutin on the skin can discharge the moisture absorbed in the moisturizing agent again, and the problem of water shortage of the skin is caused, and in example 6, the content of the moisture absorption group is reduced due to the direct addition of kojic acid, and the moisturizing effect is reduced; in example 7, the whitening moisturizer is not added, so that the content of the water absorbing group in the whitening moisturizer is reduced, and the moisturizing effect is reduced.
Example 9:
selecting 30 healthy subjects, and 30 persons had no abnormal reaction to sunlight, and applying the moisturizing skin care product prepared in examples 3-7 on the arms of the subjects with the application area of 30cm2The coating dosage is 2mg/cm2And irradiating 15min after coating, firstly measuring the minimum erythema quantity of the unprotected skin after the skin is exposed to the sun, then measuring the minimum erythema quantity of the exposed skin of the coated moisturizing skin care product, and then calculating the sun protection index which is the minimum erythema quantity of the exposed skin of the coated sunscreen product/the minimum erythema quantity of the unprotected skin, wherein the measurement results are shown in the following table 2:
table 2 sun protection index measurement results of moisturizing skin care products prepared in examples 3 to 7
As can be seen from table 2, the moisturizing skin care products prepared in examples 3, 4 and 6 have high sunscreen effect, and rutin contained therein and modified to have high hydrophilicity can be well absorbed by the skin to achieve the sunscreen effect, while the obvious decrease of the sunscreen index in example 5 is due to the fact that rutin contained in the skin care product is difficult to dissolve in water and difficult to be absorbed by the skin, and further difficult to achieve the sunscreen effect.
Example 10:
inoculating yeast and mold into culture medium, culturing for two days, adding bacterial colony into sterilized physiological saline at concentration of 1 × 107CFU/mL of bacterial suspension, wherein the contents of three bacteria in the suspension are the same, and the suspension is prevented from being reserved at the temperature of 4 ℃; then 30g of the moisturizing skin care products in examples 3 to 7 were weighed, 0.2mL of the bacterial suspension was added thereto, and the mixture was stored at room temperature in the dark,then sampling and analyzing for 0, 7, 14 and 28 days of inoculation, and determining the number of microorganisms by adopting a flat plate method; the content of three colonies in the sample at 28 days is 10CFU/mL-100CFU/mL, which shows that the preservative system of the sample has stronger inhibiting and killing effects on microorganisms, and the samples pass the challenge test, and are deemed to pass marginally when the number of colonies is reduced to 1000CFU/g at 7 days, and the other colonies are deemed not to pass, and the results are shown in Table 3:
table 3 bacteriostatic properties of the moisturizing skin care products prepared in examples 3 to 7
As can be seen from table 3, the moisturizing skin care product prepared in example 3 has high antibacterial performance, the antibacterial performance of example 4 is reduced, and the antibacterial performance of example 4 is reduced due to the reduced content of the quaternary ammonium salt group in the whitening moisturizer, and the antibacterial performance of example 6 is reduced due to the fact that the whitening moisturizer does not contain the quaternary ammonium salt group, and example 7 does not directly add the whitening moisturizer, so that the antibacterial performance of example 3 is further reduced due to the fact that the quaternary ammonium salt group is not contained, and the kojic acid content is reduced.
The preferred embodiments of the invention disclosed above are intended to be illustrative only. The preferred embodiments are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise embodiments disclosed. Obviously, many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to best explain the principles of the invention and the practical application, to thereby enable others skilled in the art to best utilize the invention. The invention is limited only by the claims and their full scope and equivalents.
Claims (1)
1. A biological moisturizing skin care product based on ceramide is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 7.4-7.7 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6.5-6.7 parts of stearic monoglyceride, 4.8-5.1 parts of lecithin, 5.3-5.6 parts of caprylic triglyceride, 1.2-1.3 parts of hydrogenated vegetable oil, 1.3-1.4 parts of bio-based sunscreen whitening agent, 2.1-2.2 parts of polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, 0.8-0.9 part of whitening humectant, 0.2-0.4 part of triethanolamine and 57-59 parts of deionized water;
the specific preparation process of the bio-based sunscreen whitening agent is as follows: step 1: weighing a certain amount of ceramide, adding the ceramide into diethyl ether, simultaneously adding a certain amount of sodium carbonate into the diethyl ether, uniformly stirring and mixing, keeping the temperature at 40-45 ℃, dropwise adding peroxyacetic acid into the mixture, controlling the dropwise adding speed to be 7-8mL/min, stirring and reacting at constant temperature for 5-6h after the dropwise adding is completed, then filtering, and distilling the filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain epoxidized ceramide; step 2: adding rutin into dimethyl sulfoxide, stirring for dissolving, adding the epoxidized ceramide prepared in the step 1, stirring for reacting for 2-3h at normal temperature, then carrying out reduced pressure distillation, adding the fraction into cold water, stirring for dissolving, centrifuging, and drying the supernatant to obtain the bio-based sun-screening whitening agent;
in the step 1, the ratio of the amount of the ceramide, the peroxyacetic acid and the sodium carbonate in the substances is 1: 1.08-1.1: adding 0.81-0.83;
in the step 2, rutin and epoxidized ceramide are mixed according to a molar ratio of 1: 1 is added in a proportion of;
the specific preparation process of the whitening humectant is as follows: adding trimethylglycine into a thionyl chloride solution, heating to 75-80 ℃, carrying out reflux reaction for 5-6h, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain a product A; secondly, adding the product A into a reaction container, adding pyridine, kojic acid and triethylamine into the product A, stirring the mixture at normal temperature for reaction for 5 to 6 hours, and then carrying out reduced pressure distillation to obtain the whitening humectant;
the mass ratio of the product A to kojic acid is 2.08-2.11: 1, simultaneously adding 110mL of pyridine 100-one and triethylamine 0.85-0.87mol into each mol of the product A;
the preparation method of the biological moisturizing skin care product comprises the following specific steps: step one, adding a bio-based sun-screening whitening agent, a whitening humectant and triethanolamine into deionized water, stirring and dissolving, heating to 90-95 ℃, and sterilizing for 10-15min to obtain a component A; secondly, adding polydimethylsiloxane, stearic acid monoglyceride, lecithin, caprylic triglyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil and polyoxyethylene lauryl ether into a stirring container, heating to 85-90 ℃, stirring and mixing to obtain a uniform and transparent liquid phase to obtain a component B; and thirdly, adding the component A into a homogenizer, stirring vigorously, keeping the stirring temperature at 80-85 ℃, adding the component B while stirring, stirring for 5-10min after adding, slowly cooling to 45-50 ℃, and continuously stirring for 3-5min to obtain the moisturizing skin care product.
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| JP2014198706A (en) * | 2013-03-12 | 2014-10-23 | 御木本製薬株式会社 | Cosmetic preparation |
| CN104721066A (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2015-06-24 | 高露洁-棕榄公司 | Rutin solubilising method using polyhydroxy alkyl alcohol |
| CN107375086A (en) * | 2017-08-10 | 2017-11-24 | 广州市金原生物科技有限公司 | A kind of whitening sun protection skin care item and preparation method thereof |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2014198706A (en) * | 2013-03-12 | 2014-10-23 | 御木本製薬株式会社 | Cosmetic preparation |
| CN104721066A (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2015-06-24 | 高露洁-棕榄公司 | Rutin solubilising method using polyhydroxy alkyl alcohol |
| CN107375086A (en) * | 2017-08-10 | 2017-11-24 | 广州市金原生物科技有限公司 | A kind of whitening sun protection skin care item and preparation method thereof |
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| "Preparation of quercetin and rutin-loaded ceramide liposomes and drug-releasing effect in liposome-in-hydrogel complex system";Soo Nam Park 等;《Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications》;20130510;第435卷(第3期);第361-366页 * |
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