CN109771350B - Skin barrier repair composition, essence and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Skin barrier repair composition, essence and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a skin barrier repair composition, which contains a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a herba tetrapanacis extract; the herba violae extract is extracted from herba violae whole plant, the fig extract is extracted from fig fruit, the poncirus trifoliata extract is extracted from immature bitter orange of poncirus trifoliata, and the herba tetrapanacis extract is extracted from fruit of herba tetrapanacis. The skin barrier repair composition is prepared by compounding a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a herba dogwood extract, is derived from natural plants, is mild and safe, has a good skin barrier repair effect, and has a good moisturizing effect. The invention also discloses essence containing the skin barrier repair composition, which has a good skin barrier repair effect, does not contain irritant chemical components, is mild and non-irritant to the skin, has good skin feel when being used and is easy to be absorbed by the skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin barrier repair composition, essence and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the increase of age and the deterioration of living environment, the metabolism function of human skin is gradually reduced, the absorption function of nutrient substances is also reduced, and water is easy to lose; meanwhile, various harmful substances retained on the surface of the skin can gradually lose the original elasticity of the skin, and the barrier protection function is gradually reduced; thereby causing a series of skin problems such as dryness, roughness, peeling, wrinkles, etc. Therefore, repair and maintenance of the skin barrier has become an important part of people's daily life.
In response to the increasing occurrence of skin problems, various products directed to skin repair are emerging on the market. However, some manufacturers add some hormone components to the product to achieve the instant effect, which causes new skin problems for users, such as: hormone-dependent dermatitis, and the like. And a considerable part of products contain chemical substances (such as chemical preservatives and the like), are irritant to the skin, are easy to cause allergic phenomena such as skin red swelling and the like, and can damage the barrier system of the skin to reduce the water retention capacity of the skin. With the improvement of living standard of people, the requirement of consumers on cosmetics is higher and higher, and the products are required to be natural, safe, healthy and mild while having skin repair effect. Therefore, there is a need to develop a safe and mild product with better skin barrier repair effect to meet people's needs.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the disadvantages and shortcomings of the prior art, the first object of the present invention is to provide a skin barrier repair composition, which comprises four plant extracts, wherein the four plant extracts are compounded to generate a synergistic effect, so that the skin barrier repair composition has a good skin barrier repair effect, is safe and mild, and is suitable for people with various skin types.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide essence containing the skin barrier repair composition and a preparation method thereof. The essence contains the skin barrier repair composition and has a good skin barrier repair effect. Meanwhile, the essence does not contain irritant chemical components, is mild, non-irritant, natural and safe.
In order to realize the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
a skin barrier repair composition comprises herba Violae extract, fructus fici extract, fructus Ponciri Trifoliatae extract, and herba Tetrastigmatis Hypoglauci extract; the herba violae extract is extracted from herba violae whole plant, the fig extract is extracted from fig fruit, the poncirus trifoliata extract is extracted from immature bitter orange of poncirus trifoliata, and the herba tetrapanacis extract is extracted from fruit of herba tetrapanacis.
Viola philippica (scientific name: Viola philippica), Viola yedoensis, Viola aurea, etc. Perennial herbs belong to order sidemembrane placentae and violaceae and do not have overground stems. The product extracted from herba Violae contains esters such as glycosides, flavonoids, wax, cerotic acid and unsaturated acid, and has heat clearing away, repercussive, and antiinflammatory effects. The herba Violae extract can effectively improve the moisture content of skin and reduce moisture loss in a short period, and can effectively control oil secretion and improve the skin elasticity in a long-term use.
Fig (Ficus carica linn), a flowering plant, belongs to the genus Ficus of the family moriaceae, mainly grows in some tropical and temperate areas, and belongs to subtropical deciduous small trees. The fig fruit contains a large amount of pectin, fructose, glucose and a portion of alpha-hydroxy acids. The fig extract can reduce the water loss through skin, enhance the moisture retention of skin and soften epidermis, and has good moisture retention and repair effects.
Poncirus trifoliata (L.) Raf), named as Zhi, is a unique tree species in China, and is often cultivated in the south of the yellow river basin. The main effective component in the immature bitter orange is flavonoid substance, and the immature bitter orange has excellent anti-inflammatory effect. The extract of Poncirus trifoliata fruit contains Poncirus trifoliata glucoside more than 5000ppm, has anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory effects, and can protect cells against cell death induced by UVB.
Dendrobenthamia angustata (Chun) Fang, also known as mountain litchi and wild litchi, belong to the genus deciduous shrub to small arbor. The fruit contains abundant protein, vitamin C, amino acids, and macroelements and microelements essential for human body. The herba Tetrastigmatis Hypoglauci extract is obtained from fruit part of herba Tetrastigmatis Hypoglauci, and has effects of protecting and whitening skin.
According to a large number of experimental researches, the effects of the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the common daylily flower extract in moisturizing and skin barrier repair are obviously better than those of one or two or three of the extracts when the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the common daylily flower extract are compounded and used, and the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the daylily extract are mild and non-irritant to skin.
Preferably, in the skin barrier repair composition, the ratio by weight of the Chinese violet extract: the fig extract: poncirus trifoliata extract: the extract of the common lophatherum herb is (0.5-2): (0.2-1): (0.6-2.5): (1-2.5). Experimental research shows that when the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the uniflower rose extract are compounded according to the proportion, the synergistic interaction effect is strong, and the moisturizing and repairing effects on skin are good.
Preferably, in the skin barrier repair composition, the ratio by weight of the Chinese violet extract: the fig extract: poncirus trifoliata extract: the tetrandra officinalis extract is 1:0.5:1: 1.5. According to experimental research, the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the uniflower rose extract are compounded according to the proportion, so that the skin moisturizing and repairing effects are the best.
The invention also provides essence containing the skin barrier repair composition. Preferably, the skin barrier repair composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight in the essence: 0.5 to 2 percent of Chinese violet extract, 0.2 to 1 percent of fig extract, 0.6 to 2.5 percent of poncirus trifoliata extract and 1 to 2.5 percent of common dayflower extract.
Preferably, the essence consists of the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5-2% of Chinese violet extract, 0.2-1% of fig extract, 0.6-2.5% of poncirus trifoliata extract, 1-2.5% of common dayflower extract, 3-8% of butanediol, 2-5% of caprylyl glycol, 0.5-1% of adenosine, 0.2-1% of bisabolol, 2-5% of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.4-2% of beta-glucan, 0.1-1% of zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, 0.1-1% of pulsatilla chinensis extract, 0.1-1% of usnea barbata extract and the balance of water. Therefore, the essence disclosed by the invention does not contain irritant chemical components, and experiments prove that the essence prepared by the formula has a good skin barrier repair effect, is mild and non-irritant to skin, has good skin feel when being used, and meets the requirements of modern consumers on cosmetics.
Preferably, the essence consists of the following components in percentage by weight: 1% of Chinese violet extract, 0.5% of fig extract, 1% of poncirus trifoliata extract, 1.5% of common dayflower extract, 5% of butanediol, 2.5% of caprylyl glycol, 0.5% of adenosine, 0.5% of bisabolol, 2% of ethylhexyl glycerol, 1% of beta-glucan, 0.1% of zanthoxylum piperitum fruit extract, 0.1% of pulsatilla extract, 0.1% of usnea barbata extract and the balance of water. Experiments show that the essence with the formula has the best effect on repairing skin barriers, is fine, smooth and even, is light and moist, and can be quickly absorbed and utilized by the skin.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the essence, which comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing water, butanediol and caprylyl glycol, heating to 80-85 ℃, continuously preserving heat, stirring for 20-30 min, and then cooling to 60-70 ℃; adding bisabolol, adenosine and ethylhexylglycerin, and homogenizing; adding beta-glucan, stirring uniformly, defoaming, continuously cooling to 45-50 ℃, adding a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a sixpanthes japonica extract, stirring uniformly for 20-30 min, continuously cooling to 40 ℃, adding a zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, a pulsatilla chinensis extract and a usnea barbata extract, and stirring uniformly for 20-30 min to obtain the essence. Preferably, the homogenization speed is 8000r/min and the time is 2 min. Preferably, the specific operation of defoaming is as follows: and placing the mixture for 2-3 min under the vacuum condition of-0.1 MPa.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the skin barrier repair composition is prepared by compounding a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a herba dogwood extract, is derived from natural plants, is mild and safe, has a good skin modification effect, and has a good moisturizing effect. The essence disclosed by the invention contains the skin barrier repair composition, has a good skin barrier repair effect, does not contain irritant chemical components, is mild and non-irritant to the skin, has a good skin feel in use, and is easy to absorb by the skin.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention is further illustrated by the following examples. It should be understood that the embodiments of the present invention are only for illustrating the technical effects of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In the examples, the methods used were all conventional methods unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1 to 7 are examples of skin barrier repair compositions according to the present invention, the composition of which is shown in table 1. Meanwhile, the invention is also provided with comparative examples 1-4, and the component compositions of the invention are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 weight ratio formulation for examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-4
Examples 8-13 are examples of the essence of the present invention, and the compositions thereof are shown in table 2. Meanwhile, the invention is also provided with a comparative example 5, and the component composition is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 weight percents (%) -Components of examples 8 to 13 and comparative example 5
The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps: adding water, butanediol and caprylyl glycol into an emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 120-150 r/min, heating to 80-85 ℃, preserving heat, stirring for 20-30 min, and then cooling to 60-70 ℃; adding bisabolol, adenosine and ethylhexylglycerin, and homogenizing at 8000r/min for 2 min; adding beta-glucan, stirring uniformly, vacuumizing an emulsifying pot until the vacuum degree is-0.1 MPa, keeping for 2-3 min, eliminating bubbles, recovering to normal pressure, continuously cooling to 45-50 ℃, adding a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a sixpanthes japonica extract, uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 50r/min for 20-30 min, continuously cooling to 40 ℃, adding a zanthoxylum piperitum fruit extract, a pulsatilla chinensis extract and a usnea barbata extract, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 50r/min for 20-30 min to obtain the essence.
First, the patch test of human skin
65 volunteers aged 20-45 years are selected, the skin of the test subject is healthy, no allergic history of skin diseases exists, the test subject meets the volunteer selection standard, the test subject is divided into 13 groups randomly and is subjected to a spot-pasting experiment, and one sample is used in each group. Selecting a qualified patch device, respectively and uniformly smearing about 0.05g of the composition or the essence of the embodiment 1-13 in the patch device by a closed patch experimental method, externally applying a special adhesive tape to the forearm of a subject, removing the subject after 24h, respectively observing skin reactions at 0, 4, 8, 12, 24 and 48h after removal, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in 'cosmetic hygiene code' of 2007 edition in China.
The result of the human body skin patch experiment shows that: for the 65 test persons, skin reactions were observed at 0, 4, 8, 12, 24, 48 hours, wherein 0 cases showed adverse skin reactions, indicating that the skin barrier repair composition and essence of the present invention were safe.
Second, stability test
1. And (3) heat resistance test: the constant temperature incubator is adjusted to 40 ℃ in advance, and the essence liquids prepared in examples 8 to 13 and comparative example 5 are respectively filled into 2 transparent glass bottles, the sample amount is 50 g/bottle, and the transparent glass bottles are divided into A, B groups. And (4) placing the mixture in a constant-temperature incubator, taking out the group A after 24 hours, taking out the group B after three months, respectively returning to the room temperature, and observing the appearance change of the essence.
2. Cold resistance test: the refrigerator is adjusted to-15 ℃ in advance, and the essence liquids prepared in the examples 8-13 and the comparative example 5 are respectively filled into 2 transparent glass bottles, wherein the sample filling amount is 50 g/bottle, and the transparent glass bottles are divided into A, B groups. And (4) placing the mixture in a constant-temperature incubator, taking out the group A after 24 hours, taking out the group B after three months, respectively returning to the room temperature, and observing the appearance change of the essence.
3. And (3) normal temperature test: 50g of the essences prepared in examples 8 to 13 and comparative example 5 were weighed and placed in 10 transparent glass bottles, and after standing at room temperature for 6 months, the appearance change of the essences was observed.
The results are shown in Table 3.
Table 3 serum stability test results of examples 8-13
| Sample (I) | 40℃(24h) | -15℃(24h) | 40 deg.C (3 months) | -15 ℃ (3 months) | Room temperature (6 months) |
| Example 8 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Example 9 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Example 10 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Example 11 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Example 12 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Example 13 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Comparative example 5 | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
As can be seen from the experimental results in table 3, the essences prepared in examples 8 to 13 all have good stability at high and low temperatures, which also indicates that the addition of the skin barrier repair composition has no influence on the stability of the essences.
Third, skin moisture loss test
90 volunteers are selected as subjects, the subjects are 20-45 years old, the skin of the subjects is healthy, no allergic history of skin diseases exists, the test is carried out according to the volunteer selection standard of the subjects, the subjects are divided into 18 groups at random, and one sample is used in each group. The skin barrier repair compositions of examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 4, and the essences of examples 8 to 13 and comparative example 5 were used as samples, respectively (the total weight of the skin barrier repair compositions of examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was 4 parts, and 96 parts by weight of deionized water was added to each of the compositions in this test to obtain samples). The test subjects applied an equal amount of a sample (0.5g) to the inner forearm twice a day, and then the same tester used a TM300 tester from the german CK company to test the percutaneous water loss, TEWL for short, from week 0 and after 2 and 4 weeks, respectively, i.e. how many grams of water per hour per square meter area was lost.
TEWL is a very important parameter for assessing the function of the skin's moisture barrier and has gained wide acceptance internationally, reflecting very well the integrity of the skin barrier function. The standard TEWL is measured under dry, non-sweaty skin conditions at an ambient temperature of 24 ℃ and an ambient humidity of 50%, and the test data are obtained under these conditions.
The TEWL value decrease rate calculation formula is as follows:
TEWL value decrease (%) - (A0-An)/A0X 100%
Wherein A0 is the week 0 TEWL value and An is the week n TEWL value.
The TEWL value reduction rate is a positive value, which indicates that the skin barrier is repaired, otherwise, the skin barrier is not repaired; and the larger the TEWL value decrease rate is, the better the skin barrier repair effect is. The calculation formula of the mean rate of decrease of the TEWL value is as follows:
mean rate of decrease (%) in TEWL value (sum of TEWL value decrease rate per group/number of persons in the group)
The results of the test are shown in Table 4.
Table 4 skin barrier function test results
Table 4 analysis of results: the average reduction rate of TEWL values of examples 1-7 is higher, wherein the highest average reduction rate of TEWL value of example 3 is used to illustrate that the skin barrier repair effect of the skin barrier repair composition of example 3 is the best, therefore, the skin barrier repair composition of example 3 is used as the preferable formula of the skin barrier repair composition in the present invention.
The average TEWL value reduction rates of comparative examples 1-4 are all significantly lower than those of example 3, which shows that the skin repair composition has a synergistic effect among the Chinese violet extract, the fig extract, the poncirus trifoliata extract and the common daylily extract in the aspect of repairing skin barriers.
The average reduction rate of the TEWL values of the examples 8-13 is higher, wherein the highest average reduction rate of the TEWL value of the example 9 is used for explaining that the skin barrier repair effect of the essence of the example 9 is the best, so the invention takes the example 9 as the preferable formula of the essence.
The average reduction rate of TEWL values of comparative example 5 was significantly lower than that of example 9, indicating that the skin barrier repair composition can impart better skin barrier repair efficacy to the serum.
Fourth, example of effects of use
And selecting 60 volunteers of 20-45 years old as trial objects by adopting a civil survey grading method, averagely dividing the samples into two groups, and respectively trying the essence of the embodiment 9 and skin repair products purchased in the market. After cleaning the face in the morning and evening, the test article is uniformly smeared on the face and continuously used for one month, and the test article is graded from the aspects of smell, moisture retention, absorbability and repairability. The total score of each scoring item is 10 points: 10 points are the highest points, which means that the product is good and very satisfactory; the method is better in 8-9 points, acceptable in 5-7 points, not better in less than 5 points and poor in effect. Finally, the average scores of the samples are calculated, and the result is shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 average score for each item of test article
As can be seen from the results in table 5, the essence of example 9 of the present invention has better effects on odor, moisture retention, absorption and repair, and is significantly better than the commercially available products. According to the reaction of a user, the essence of the example 9 is fine, uniform, light and moist, is quickly absorbed, is not sticky and fresh after being used, and has a certain anti-inflammatory effect.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. A skin barrier repair composition comprising a Viola yedoensis makino extract, a Fig extract, a Poncirus trifoliata extract and a Physalis pubescens extract; the herba violae extract is extracted from herba violae whole plant, the fig extract is extracted from fig fruits, the poncirus trifoliata extract is immature bitter orange of poncirus trifoliata, and the herba tetrapanacis extract is fruits of herba tetrapanacis; the Chinese violet extract comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the fig extract: poncirus trifoliata extract: the extract of the common lophatherum herb is (0.5-2): (0.2-1): (0.6-2.5): (1-2.5).
2. The skin barrier repair composition of claim 1, wherein the extract of Viola yedoensis Makino is: the fig extract: poncirus trifoliata extract: the tetrandra officinalis extract is 1:0.5:1: 1.5.
3. An essence comprising the skin barrier repair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2.
4. The essence of claim 3, comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5 to 2 percent of Chinese violet extract, 0.2 to 1 percent of fig extract, 0.6 to 2.5 percent of poncirus trifoliata extract and 1 to 2.5 percent of common dayflower extract.
5. The essence of claim 4, which consists of the following components in percentage by weight: 0.5-2% of Chinese violet extract, 0.2-1% of fig extract, 0.6-2.5% of poncirus trifoliata extract, 1-2.5% of common dayflower extract, 3-8% of butanediol, 2-5% of caprylyl glycol, 0.5-1% of adenosine, 0.2-1% of bisabolol, 2-5% of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.4-2% of beta-glucan, 0.1-1% of zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, 0.1-1% of pulsatilla chinensis extract, 0.1-1% of usnea barbata extract and the balance of water.
6. The essence of claim 5, which consists of the following components in percentage by weight: 1% of Chinese violet extract, 0.5% of fig extract, 1% of poncirus trifoliata extract, 1.5% of common dayflower extract, 5% of butanediol, 2.5% of caprylyl glycol, 0.5% of adenosine, 0.5% of bisabolol, 2% of ethylhexyl glycerol, 1% of beta-glucan, 0.1% of zanthoxylum piperitum fruit extract, 0.1% of pulsatilla extract, 0.1% of usnea barbata extract and the balance of water.
7. The method for preparing the essence according to claim 5 or 6, comprising the steps of:
uniformly mixing water, butanediol and caprylyl glycol, heating to 80-85 ℃, continuously preserving heat, stirring for 20-30 min, and then cooling to 60-70 ℃; adding bisabolol, adenosine and ethylhexylglycerin, and homogenizing; adding beta-glucan, stirring uniformly, defoaming, continuously cooling to 45-50 ℃, adding a Chinese violet extract, a fig extract, a poncirus trifoliata extract and a sixpanthes japonica extract, stirring uniformly for 20-30 min, continuously cooling to 40 ℃, adding a zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, a pulsatilla chinensis extract and a usnea barbata extract, and stirring uniformly for 20-30 min to obtain the essence.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the homogenization is carried out at a rate of 8000r/min for a period of 2 min.
9. The preparation method according to claim 8, wherein the specific operation of defoaming is as follows: and placing the mixture for 2-3 min under the vacuum condition of-0.1 MPa.
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| CN105662941A (en) * | 2016-01-11 | 2016-06-15 | 无限极（中国）有限公司 | Immature bitter orange extract product and preparation method thereof and application of immature bitter orange extract product for delaying skin aging |
| CN106265479A (en) * | 2016-10-27 | 2017-01-04 | 广州仙施生物科技有限公司 | A kind of skin repair compositions and preparation method thereof |
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