CN109208335A - 一种面料的后整理工艺 - Google Patents

一种面料的后整理工艺 Download PDF

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CN109208335A
CN109208335A CN201811033708.1A CN201811033708A CN109208335A CN 109208335 A CN109208335 A CN 109208335A CN 201811033708 A CN201811033708 A CN 201811033708A CN 109208335 A CN109208335 A CN 109208335A
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豆颖
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HANGZHOU HONGJIANG TEXTILE PRINTING AND DYEING Co.,Ltd.
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Ma'an Sanyou Knitting Factory Keqiao District Shaoxing City
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D06M15/6436Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain containing amino groups
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    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/35Heterocyclic compounds
    • D06M13/355Heterocyclic compounds having six-membered heterocyclic rings
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    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/368Hydroxyalkylamines; Derivatives thereof, e.g. Kritchevsky bases
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    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/402Amides imides, sulfamic acids
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    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/44Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen containing nitrogen and phosphorus
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及纺织技术领域,公开了一种面料的后整理工艺,包括以下步骤,步骤(1),烧毛;步骤(2),煮呢;步骤(3),洗呢,洗呢1h后,冲淋干净;步骤(4),烘呢;步骤(5),热定形;步骤(6),罐蒸;步骤(7),整理,用整理剂对面料进行浸轧整理;步骤(8),烘干,得到面料。本发明具有以下优点和效果:整理剂中的纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸共同作用,能显著提高整理后面料的光泽强度,透明质酸、山嵛酸酰胺、烟酸丁氧基乙酯能进一步提高整理后面料的光泽度、弹性性能,后整理工艺具有流程短,能耗低,环保的效果,得到的面料具有光泽效果、柔软滑爽、手感舒适、弹性性能好的优点。

Description

一种面料的后整理工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域,特别涉及一种面料的后整理工艺。
背景技术
面料是用来制作服装的材料,随着生活质量的不断提高,人们对面料的功能有了本质的变化,逐渐从过去注重经济实用转变到注重舒适性、功能性和美观性。光泽度是面料性能的指标之一,光泽度高的面料表面光滑并能反射出亮光,有熠熠生辉之感,制作的服装有华丽耀眼的视觉效果。现有技术中的光泽型面料,大多是通过将发光物质通过涂层的方法涂在面料表面制成,不仅影响面料的手感和服装性能,而且易脱落,导致面料的光泽变暗。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种面料的后整理工艺,具有提高面料光泽度的效果。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的:一种面料的后整理工艺,包括以下步骤,步骤(1),烧毛;步骤(2),煮呢,煮呢槽水温90℃;步骤(3),洗呢,洗呢1h后,冲淋干净;步骤(4),烘呢, 用蒸汽将步骤(3)冲淋干净的面料加热烘干;步骤(5),热定形,温度为170-190℃,时间为25-30s;步骤(6),罐蒸,蒸汽压强为100kPa,时间为2min-3min;步骤(7),整理,用整理剂对面料进行浸轧整理,整理剂温度70-85℃,轧余率70-85%;整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸=100:5;步骤(8),烘干,将步骤(7)的面料烘干,温度为70-90℃,时间为30-60min,得到面料。
通过采用上述技术方案,对面料进行后整理时,先进行烧毛,烧毛是指将织物迅速通过火焰或在炽热的金属表面擦过,烧去表面绒毛的工艺。烧毛后进行煮呢,煮呢时将面料热处理,使之平整且在后续的步骤中不易变形,煮呢温度为90℃。煮呢后进行洗呢,主要用于去除面料上附着的杂质污垢等。洗呢后进行热定形,热定形后再进行罐蒸,罐蒸是蒸呢的一种,通过蒸汽使面料形态稳定,不易变形,手感丰厚、舒适。
整理时采用整理剂进行浸轧整理,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油和乙酰基羟脯氨酸,纳米氨基硅油在面料的后整理中,纳米氨基硅油中的氨基极性,能与纤维表面的羟基、羧基等相互作用,使硅氧烷主链能定向附着于纤维的表面,能够与天然纤维、化学纤维及混纺织物结合,整理后的面料具有柔软、滑爽、抗皱、抗静电等性能。
整理剂中的乙酰基羟脯氨酸是乙酰化修饰过的氨基酸衍生物,在整理过程中,既能与面料中的纤维结合,也能结合纳米氨基硅油的氨基,乙酰基羟脯氨酸填充于面料纤维凹陷及弯曲处,纳米氨基硅油包覆于纤维表面,使面料纤维能对光线有规律的反射,两者共同作用,能显著提高面料的光泽度。相比于将发光物质通过涂层涂覆于面料表面,本申请通过整理剂使得面料的纤维对光线有规律的反射,进而显著提高面料的光泽度。
本发明的进一步设置为:步骤(2),煮呢,所述煮呢槽内液体为水。
本发明的进一步设置为:步骤(5),热定形,温度为180℃,时间为25s。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂原料还包括透明质酸,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:透明质酸=100:8。
通过采用上述技术方案,透明质酸,基本结构是由两个双糖单位D-葡萄糖醛酸及N-乙酰葡糖胺组成的大型多糖类,具有良好的保湿性,通过透明质酸整理的面料,具有光滑舒适的手感。在整理过程中,透明质酸还能起到增强纳米氨基硅油与面料纤维结合强度、乙酰基羟脯氨酸与面料纤维的结合强度的作用,延长高光泽度面料的使用寿命。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂原料还包括环磷酸腺苷,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:环磷酸腺苷=100:3。
通过采用上述技术方案,环磷酸腺苷分子式是C10H12N5O6P,在整理过程中能提高面料纤维的光泽,且能与乙酰基羟脯氨酸起到协同作用,进一步增强整理后面料的光泽度。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂原料还包括山嵛酸酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:山嵛酸酰胺=100:1。
通过采用上述技术方案,山嵛酸酰胺为光滑无异味的蜡状固体,分散在整理剂中,整理过程中附着于面料纤维表面,使得面料纤维表面光滑,具有较好的光反射性能,进而提高面料的光泽。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂原料还包括烟酸丁氧基乙酯,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:烟酸丁氧基乙酯=100:4。
通过采用上述技术方案,烟酸丁氧基乙酯分散于整理剂中,在整理过程中,能增强纳米氨基硅油与面料纤维的结合强度。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂原料还包括双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺=100:2。
通过采用上述技术方案,双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺在面料整理过程中,具有改变纤维表面形态的作用,能促进面料纤维膨胀,面料纤维膨胀后截面更接近圆形,进而增强对光线的反射作用,提高面料表面光滑和光泽效果。
本发明的进一步设置为:所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20-25min,得到整理剂。
通过采用上述技术方案,整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,通过超声波处理,使得各组分混合均匀,且能促进纳米氨基硅油与乙酰基羟脯氨酸的结合。
综上所述,本发明具有以下有益效果:面料的后整理工艺中,整理剂原料中的纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸共同作用,能显著提高整理后面料的光泽强度,整理剂中的透明质酸、山嵛酸酰胺、烟酸丁氧基乙酯能进一步提高整理后面料的光泽度、弹性性能,得到的面料具有光泽效果、柔软滑爽、手感舒适、弹性性能好。
具体实施方式
实施例1:一种面料的后整理工艺,包括以下步骤,步骤(1),烧毛,用烧毛机对面料进行烧毛;步骤(2)煮呢,煮呢槽内放置水,水温加热至90涉世度,进行煮呢;步骤(3),洗呢,洗呢1h,清理杂质污垢,冲洗干净;步骤(4),烘呢,用蒸汽将步骤(3)冲淋干净的面料加热烘干;步骤(5),热定形,温度为190℃,时间为30s;步骤(6),罐蒸,蒸汽压强为100kPa,时间为3min。步骤(7),整理,用整理剂对面料进行浸轧整理,整理剂温度控制在70-85℃,轧余率为70%,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸。以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸=100:5。整理剂制备方法如下,取纳米氨基硅油与乙酰基羟脯氨酸混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min。步骤(8),烘干,将步骤(7)得到的面料烘干,烘干温度为90℃,时间为30min,得到面料。
实施例2:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,步骤(5),热定形,温度为180℃,时间为25s;步骤(6),罐蒸,蒸汽压强为100kPa,时间为3min;步骤(7),整理,用整理剂对面料进行浸轧整理,整理剂温度85℃,轧余率85%;整理剂制备方法如下,取纳米氨基硅油与乙酰基羟脯氨酸混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理25min。步骤(8),烘干,将步骤(7)得到的面料烘干,烘干温度为70℃,时间为60min,得到面料。
实施例3:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,步骤(5),热定形,温度为170℃,时间为25s。整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸、透明质酸,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸:透明质酸=100:5:8。所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min,得到整理剂。
实施例4:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸、透明质酸、环磷酸腺苷,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸:透明质酸:环磷酸腺苷=100:5:8:3。所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min,得到整理剂。
实施例5:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸、透明质酸、环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸:透明质酸:环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺=100:5:8:3:1。所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min,得到整理剂。
实施例6:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸、透明质酸、环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺、烟酸丁氧基乙酯,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸:透明质酸:环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺:烟酸丁氧基乙酯=100:5:8:3:1:4。所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min,得到整理剂。
实施例7:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸、透明质酸、环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺、烟酸丁氧基乙酯、双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸:透明质酸:环磷酸腺苷:山嵛酸酰胺:烟酸丁氧基乙酯:双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺=100:5:8:3:1:4:2。所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20min,得到整理剂。
对比例1:一种面料的后整理工艺,与实施例1的区别在于,整理剂为纳米氨基硅油。
对比例2:一种面料的后整理工艺,整理剂为乙酰基羟脯氨酸。
对比例3:一种面料的后整理工艺,包括以下步骤,步骤(1),烧毛,用烧毛设备对面料进行烧毛;步骤(2)煮呢,煮呢槽内放置水,水温加热至90涉世度,进行煮呢;步骤(3),洗呢,洗呢1h,清理杂质污垢,冲洗干净;步骤(4),烘呢,用蒸汽将步骤(3)冲淋干净的面料加热烘干;步骤(5),热定形,温度为190℃,时间为30s;步骤(6),罐蒸,蒸汽压强为100kPa,时间为3min。步骤(7),烘干,将步骤(6)得到的面料烘干,烘干温度为90℃,时间为60min,得到面料。
光泽度测试:取毛织物,分成10份,分别用实施例1-7、对比例1-3的后整理工艺进行整理,得到的面料分别进行光泽度测试。光泽度测试方法如下:用光泽度仪采用20°角度照明和检出信号,测试面料的光泽度,光泽度按下式计算:GS(20°)=S/ΔS×100%,GS为被测试面料的光泽度值,S为被测试面料的光通量值,ΔS为标准板光通量,测试三点光泽度值,计算算数平均值后,在以下表1中列出。
弹性测试,取针织物,分成10份,分别用实施例1-7、对比例1-3的后整理工艺进行整理,进行弹性测试。按照ASTMD2594标准测试,将样品面料至于温度为(20±2)℃,相对湿度为(65±2)%的恒温恒湿室中平衡至少4h,然后采用弹性测试仪进行测试。测试步骤:在样品面料的不同位置取经向、纬向试样各1块,试样尺寸为20cm×10cm。按样品的用途不同和大于或8%或小于8%的弹性而选不同的力拉伸,主身面料弹力大于8%用60N的力拉。原样长10cm,拉伸后取下回复1h,量取回复后的长度,按照公式(1)(2)计算伸长率和回复率,公式(1)伸长率=(伸长长度-原来长度)/原来长度×100%,公式(2)回复率=(伸长长度-回复长度)/(伸长长度-原来长度)×100%,并将检测结果在表1中列出。
表1
由表1中的测试结果可知,在面料的后整理工艺中,纳米氨基硅油与乙酰基羟脯氨酸共同作用,能显著提高面料的光泽度,且在此基础上,透明质酸、环磷酸腺苷、山嵛酸酰胺、烟酸丁氧基乙酯、双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺能进一步提高面料的光泽。经过整理的面料,还具备较好的弹性性能。
具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释,其并不是对本发明的限制,本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改,但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。

Claims (9)

1.一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:包括以下步骤,步骤(1),烧毛;步骤(2),煮呢,煮呢槽水温90℃;步骤(3),洗呢,洗呢1h后,冲淋干净;步骤(4),烘呢, 用蒸汽将步骤(3)冲淋干净的面料加热烘干;步骤(5),热定形,温度为170-190℃,时间为25-30s;步骤(6),罐蒸,蒸汽压强为100kPa,时间为2min-3min;步骤(7),整理,用整理剂对面料进行浸轧整理,整理剂温度70-85℃,轧余率70-85%;整理剂原料包括纳米氨基硅油、乙酰基羟脯氨酸,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:乙酰基羟脯氨酸=100:5;步骤(8),烘干,将步骤(7)的面料烘干,温度为70-90℃,时间为30-60min,得到面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:步骤(2),煮呢,所述煮呢槽内溶液为水。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:步骤(5),热定形,温度为180℃,时间为25s。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂原料还包括透明质酸,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:透明质酸=100:8。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂原料还包括环磷酸腺苷,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:环磷酸腺苷=100:3。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂原料还包括山嵛酸酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:山嵛酸酰胺=100:1。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂原料还包括烟酸丁氧基乙酯,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:烟酸丁氧基乙酯=100:4。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂原料还包括双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺,以质量比计,纳米氨基硅油:双羟乙基双鲸蜡基马来酰胺=100:2。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种面料的后整理工艺,其特征在于:所述整理剂制备方法如下,取整理剂原料各组分混合后,搅拌均匀,用超声波处理20-25min,得到整理剂。
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