CN109077972B - Moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109077972B
CN109077972B CN201811302131.XA CN201811302131A CN109077972B CN 109077972 B CN109077972 B CN 109077972B CN 201811302131 A CN201811302131 A CN 201811302131A CN 109077972 B CN109077972 B CN 109077972B
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moisturizing cream
addition amount
skin
emulsifier
moisturizing
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CN109077972A (en
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崔英云
刘向前
刘德海
张伟杰
张楚标
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Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL FACTORY
Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof. The moisturizing cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass: grease: 5-40%, preferably 10-35%, more preferably 15-35%; emulsifier: 2.1-20%, preferably 2.5-10%, more preferably 3-8%; humectant: 1-40%, preferably 5-30%, more preferably 10-25%; thickening agent: 0-2%, preferably 0.1-2%, more preferably 0.1-1%; skin conditioner: 1-10%, preferably 2-10%, more preferably 5-10%; the emulsifier comprises a compound emulsifier which is polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol. The moisturizing cream can form a protective film which is durable and moist and has increased moisturizing degree on the surface of skin, and is a bionic skin sebum film.

Description

Moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Due to various factors, for example: aging of the skin caused by aging, pressure from the external environment, severe temperature difference between the external and internal environments, frequent skin cleansing due to environmental pollution, thermal aging of the skin caused by direct sunlight, etc., cause the skin to become dry, resulting in the exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the skin. Thus, the skin appears rough, fragile, dry and dull.
At present, it is thought that the dryness of the skin is caused by the lack of lipid substances on the skin surface. In fact, the skin is not softened only by applying oil on the skin surface. Because the skin is really caused by insufficient moisture of the horny layer, the horny layer controls the moisture of the outer skin to play a barrier role, and in order to keep the moisture balance of the skin, the horny layer should keep certain moisture to resist the moisture change of the external environment, and in order to make the skin smooth, soft and elastic, the skin must keep certain moisture content, and the moisture content of the skin is usually kept between 10 and 20 percent.
The traditional cosmetics mainly divide raw materials with moisturizing function into two types, wherein one type of moisturizing agent, such as glycerin, propylene glycol and the like, moisturizes through water absorption, but the moisturizing agent does not retain water and moisturize the skin, and fully considers the aspects of lasting nourishing. Another class of non-polar moisturizers, such as petrolatum and white mineral oil, form a closed oil film on the surface to reduce evaporation of water from the skin surface, and lower tissue water diffuses into the stratum corneum to further hydrate the stratum corneum for moisturizing; however, the moisturizer causes poor skin breathability and excessive greasiness, causes poor use feeling, increases skin burden for oily skin consumers, and causes risks of blocking pores and causing acne skin.
In addition, in the prior art, many effective moisturizing components are added into some moisturizing cosmetics, and the promotion of percutaneous absorption is not fully considered, so that many effective moisturizing components stay on the surface of skin, do not enter the stratum corneum of the skin, cannot effectively stimulate the deep moisturizing capability of the skin, and cannot moisturize the skin for a long time, thereby causing the waste of the cost of the effective components of the cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a moisturizing cream which is good in lasting moisturizing effect, capable of relieving dry skin, safe and free of irritation and a preparation method thereof aiming at the defects of the prior art. The moisturizing cream can form a protective film which is durable and moist and has increased moisturizing degree on the surface of skin, and is a bionic skin sebum film.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a moisturizing cream, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
grease: 5-40%, preferably 10-35%, more preferably 15-35%;
emulsifier: 2.1-20%, preferably 2.5-10%, more preferably 3-8%;
humectant: 1-40%, preferably 5-30%, more preferably 10-25%;
thickening agent: 0-2%, preferably 0.1-2%, more preferably 0.1-1%;
skin conditioner: 1-10%, preferably 2-10%, more preferably 5-10%;
the emulsifier comprises a compound emulsifier which is polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of phytosterol macadamia oleate, shea butter, sunflower seed oil, triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyl dodecanol myristate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate), cetyl ethyl hexanoate, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.
The moisturizing cream comprises the composite emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier further comprises one or more of lecithin, polyglycerol-6 distearate, polyglycerol-3 beeswax, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium acrylate copolymer.
The moisturizing cream comprises, by mass, 2-6% of polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol.
the moisturizing cream comprises one or more of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, pentanediol, sorbitol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, trehalose, betaine, xylitol, pullulanase polysaccharide, glycerol polyether-26, β -glucan, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogum-1, rhamnose, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycols and sodium hyaluronate.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, pectin, acacia gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, carrageen crispus extract and sodium polyacrylate.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of tocopherol acetate, panthenol, chamomile flower water, aloe vera leaf juice powder, polypeptide, nicotinamide, oat glucan, adenosine, rosa multiflora flower extract, lavender flower water and centella asiatica extract.
The moisturizing cream further comprises a preservative and/or an aromatizer; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.2-3%, preferably 0.2-2%, more preferably 0.2-1.5% by mass of the moisturizing cream; the amount of the aromatizing agent added is 0-0.2%, preferably 0.01-0.2%, more preferably 0.01-0.15%.
The moisturizing cream further comprises one or more of a pH regulator, a free radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film forming agent, a stabilizer and a pigment.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the moisturizing cream, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the moisturizing cream.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The moisturizing cream can form a protective film which is durable and moist and has increased moisturizing degree on the surface of skin, and is a bionic skin sebum film.
Furthermore, the moisturizing cream can capture water-soluble active ingredients dissolved in water, help the active ingredients to be conducted to the cornified layer, further improve the barrier function of the skin and prevent the moisture loss of the epidermis.
Further, the moisturizing cream of the present invention also has a long-lasting moisturizing effect, and is mild, safe and non-irritating, while having excellent skin feel.
Furthermore, the preparation method of the moisturizing cream is simple and feasible, the raw materials are easy to obtain, and the moisturizing cream is suitable for mass production.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
The invention provides a moisturizing cream which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
grease: 5-40%, preferably 10-35%, more preferably 15-35%;
emulsifier: 2.1-20%, preferably 2.5-10%, more preferably 3-8%;
humectant: 1-40%, preferably 5-30%, more preferably 10-25%;
thickening agent: 0-2%, preferably 0.1-2%, more preferably 0.1-1%;
skin conditioner: 1-10%, preferably 1.5-10%, more preferably 5-10%;
the emulsifier comprises a compound emulsifier which is polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of phytosterol macadamia oleate, shea butter, sunflower seed oil, triglyceride (ethyl hexanoate), coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyl dodecanol myristate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate), cetyl ethyl hexanoate, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.
Preferably, in the moisturizing cream of the invention, the oil and fat preferably contains phytosterol macadamia oleate and shea butter; wherein, the addition amount of the phytosterol macadamia oleate is 0.5-3% in percentage by mass of the moisturizing cream, for example, the addition amount of the phytosterol macadamia oleate can be 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5% and the like; the addition amount of the shea butter is 2-8%, for example: the addition amount of shea butter can be 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, etc. The addition of the phytosterol macadamia oleate is within the range of 0.5-3%, and the addition of the shea butter is within the range of 2-8%, so that the skin can be constantly kept moist and full, and the skin is relieved and dried.
The adding amount of the grease is 5-40%, preferably 10-35%, more preferably 15-35% by mass of the moisturizing cream; for example: the addition amount of the oil and fat can be 20%, 25%, 30% and the like. If the addition amount of the grease is less than 5%, the moisturizing effect of the moisturizing cream is not ideal; if the amount of the oil added is more than 40%, the moisturizer will have a poor touch due to an excessively heavy greasy feeling.
According to the moisturizing cream, besides the compound emulsifier, the emulsifier can also comprise one or more of lecithin, polyglycerol-6 distearate, polyglycerol-3 beeswax, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium acrylate copolymer.
The adding amount of the emulsifier is 2.1-20%, preferably 2.5-10%, and more preferably 3-8% by mass of the moisturizing cream; for example: the amount of emulsifier added may be 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, etc. If the content of the emulsifier is less than 2.1%, the emulsifier is very unstable; if the content of the emulsifier is more than 20%, the moisturizer has a poor touch due to excessive thickness.
In the present invention, polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol may be commercially available or may be prepared.
The polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 60-70% of polyglycerol-6 distearate, 14-24% of jojoba esters, 3-13% of polyglycerol-3 beeswax and 3-13% of cetyl alcohol; preferably, the polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol comprises 65% polyglyceryl-6 distearate, 19% jojoba esters, 8% polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and 8% cetyl alcohol.
In the present invention, if the amount of the polyglycerin-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerin-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol added is too low, the moisturizing effect of the moisturizing cream is not ideal, and if the amount of the polyglycerin-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerin-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol added is too high, the skin feel of the moisturizing cream is not ideal. Preferably, the addition amount of the polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol is 2-6% by mass of the moisturizing cream; for example: 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, etc.
the moisturizing cream comprises one or more of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, pentanediol, sorbitol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, trehalose, betaine, xylitol, pullulanase polysaccharide, glycerol polyether-26, β -glucan, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogum-1, rhamnose, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycols and sodium hyaluronate.
The adding amount of the humectant is 1-40%, preferably 5-30%, more preferably 10-25% by mass of the moisturizing cream; for example: the humectant may be added in amounts of 8%, 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 28%, 32%, 35%, 38%, etc. If the content of the moisturizer is less than 1%, the long-lasting moisturizing performance of the moisturizing cream will not be satisfactory; if the content of the moisturizer is more than 40%, the moisturizer has a poor touch due to sticky skin feel.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, pectin, acacia gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, Chondrus CRISPUS (Chondrus CRISPUS) extract and sodium polyacrylate.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0-2%, preferably 0.1-2%, and more preferably 0.1-1% by mass of the moisturizing cream. If the content of the thickener is more than 2%, the moisturizer has a poor touch due to stickiness and thickness.
The moisturizing cream comprises one or more of tocopherol acetate, panthenol, chamomile flower water, aloe vera leaf juice powder, polypeptide, nicotinamide, oat glucan, adenosine, rosa multiflora flower extract, lavender flower water and centella asiatica extract.
The addition amount of the skin conditioner is 1-10%, preferably 2-10%, and more preferably 5-10% by mass of the moisturizing cream; for example: the skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, etc. When the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 1-10%, the skin conditioner has the characteristics of soothing and repairing skin.
In the invention, the moisturizing cream further comprises a preservative and/or an aromatizer; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.2-3%, preferably 0.2-2%, more preferably 0.2-1.5% by mass of the moisturizing cream; the amount of the aromatizing agent added is 0-0.2%, preferably 0.01-0.2%, more preferably 0.01-0.15%.
Preferably, the preservative is one or a combination of more than two of hexylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, sorbitan caprylate, benzoic acid, gluconolactone and sodium benzoate.
In the present invention, natural or synthetic odoriferous substances or mixtures thereof may be used as the vehicle. Natural odoriferous substances include flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, orange leaf), fruits (fennel, caraway, juniper), fruit shells (bergamot, lemon, mandarin), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus root, iris, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine) and extracts of resins and balsam (boswellin, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, red myrrh).
Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type products. Ester-type fragrance compounds such as benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalool acetate, phenethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, phenylglycine methyl ester, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styryl propionate, and benzyl salicylate; ether fragrance compounds include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; the aldehyde-type fragrance compounds include, for example, linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellol, citronelloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeon aldehyde; ketone-based fragrance compounds include, for example, ionones, isomethyl ionone, and methyl cedryl ketone; alcohol perfume compounds include anisole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenethyl alcohol and terpineol; and hydrocarbon fragrance compounds mainly include terpenes and balsams.
In addition, volatile oils of low volatility are generally used as fragrance components, and are also suitable as fragrances, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, balm oil, peppermint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, basswood flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, frankincense oil, Persian resin oil, labdanum oil and lavandula oil.
in the present invention, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenethyl alcohol, α -hexyl-cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, ambergris, indole, methyl dihydrojasmonate, lemon oil, mandarin oil, tangerine oil, allyl amyl glycolate, lavandin oil, sage oil, damascone, geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, methyl cedryl ketone, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose ether and the like may be used alone or in combination as the aromatizing agent.
The aromatizing agent of the invention can be obtained by purchase or preparation.
The moisturizing cream of the present invention may further comprise one or a combination of two or more of other additives such as a pH adjuster, a radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film-forming agent, a stabilizer, and a pigment.
Preferably, the pH adjusting agent comprises: one or more of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, and arginine.
In addition, the moisture-keeping cream also contains a certain amount of water, and the content of the water can be 10-80%, preferably 20-70%, and more preferably 30-60% in percentage by mass of the moisture-keeping cream.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the moisturizing cream, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the moisturizing cream.
The preparation method of the moisturizing cream comprises the following steps:
mixing oil, part of skin conditioner and emulsifier to obtain phase A (oil phase);
mixing water, humectant and thickener to obtain phase B (water phase);
adding the phase A (oil phase) into the phase B (water phase), and emulsifying to obtain an emulsified body;
after addition of phase C (i.e.the remaining skin conditioning agents, fragrance, preservatives and optionally further additives) to the emulsion, the reaction product is obtained.
The preparation method of the moisturizing cream specifically comprises the following steps:
putting oil, a part of skin conditioner and an emulsifier into a reactor, and uniformly stirring and dispersing at the temperature of 70-80 ℃ to obtain an A phase (oil phase);
putting water, a humectant and a thickener into an emulsifying device, stirring at the temperature of 70-80 ℃, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain a phase B (water phase);
adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under a stirring condition for 1-3 minutes, emulsifying at a homogenizing rotating speed of 1000-6000 rpm for 1-5 minutes after the addition is finished, and stirring at a rotating speed of 100-600 rpm after the emulsification is finished to obtain an emulsified body;
when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, adding the phase C (namely the rest skin conditioner, the aromatizing agent, the preservative and other optional additives) into the emulsifying pot, and uniformly stirring;
stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and discharging to obtain moisturizing cream.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Examples 1 to 5
The moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 were prepared according to the following mass percentages of the components in table 1, based on 1000g of the total weight.
Wherein the polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol is composed of 65 wt% of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, 19 wt% of jojoba esters, 8 wt% of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and 8 wt% of cetyl alcohol.
The preparation method of examples 1 to 5 was:
(1) adding oil, part of skin conditioner (tocopherol acetate) and emulsifier into a reactor, and stirring and dispersing uniformly at 80 ℃ to obtain phase A (oil phase);
(2) putting deionized water, humectant and thickener into an emulsifying device, stirring at 80 deg.C to dissolve and disperse uniformly to obtain phase B (water phase);
(3) adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under the stirring condition, wherein the adding time is 3 minutes, emulsifying for 3 minutes at a homogenizing rotating speed of 6000rpm after the adding is finished, and stirring at a rotating speed of 100rpm after the emulsifying is finished to obtain an emulsified body;
(4) adding phase C (the rest skin conditioner (oat glucan, panthenol), perfuming agent, antiseptic and optionally other additives) into emulsifying pot when the temperature is reduced to 40 deg.C, and stirring;
(5) stirring uniformly, vacuumizing, cooling to 30 ℃, and discharging to obtain the moisturizing cream.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001852662950000111
Comparative examples 1 to 6
The moisturizing creams of comparative examples 1 to 6 were prepared according to the preparation methods of examples 1 to 5 according to the following table 2, wherein the weight percentages of the components are 1000 g.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0001852662950000121
Performance testing
1. Appearance and pH value
Examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-6 were white creams in appearance with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.5.
2. Stability test
120g of each of the moisturizing creams of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 6 was taken and placed in a room temperature, a incubator at 48 degrees Celsius, a refrigerator at-20 degrees Celsius, and a circulation temperature changing oven at-20 degrees Celsius, 25 degrees Celsius, and 48 degrees Celsius, respectively, and then the stability was observed for 1 month, and the results of the observation are shown in Table 3 below.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0001852662950000131
As can be seen from the results in table 3 above, the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 of the present application have better dosage form stability than the moisturizing creams of comparative examples 1-4. Therefore, by adding the composite emulsifier polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglycerol-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol in the emulsifier, and when the emulsifier content is within the range of the application, the dosage form stability can be further improved.
3. Patch test
3.1 test materials
The test substance: moisturizing creams of examples 1-5, moisturizing creams of comparative examples 1-6, and commercially available moisturizing cream products.
Negative control: blank control
A spot tester: shanghai sanitation Material works Ltd. +140801
Testing an instrument: quantitative piston gun (Microman M100+ GILSON LCO5239), single channel liquid transfer device (Transferpette +08N33275)
3.2 test methods
Subject: a total of 30 subjects; the minimum age is 21 years, the maximum age is 35 years; mean age 29 ± 5.4 year old volunteers met the enrollment criteria.
The spot-sticking test method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, placing 0.020-0.025g (moisturizing cream) of a test object in the spot tester by a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the test object, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for safety of cosmetics (2015 edition).
3.3 proof of examination
The fifth part of the human skin closed patch test skin adverse reaction grading standard of the technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition) shows the detection results as shown in Table 4.
The specific reaction degree grading grade is as follows:
0 negative reaction;
1 suspicious reaction: only faint erythema;
2 weak positive reaction (erythema reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules;
strong positive reaction (herpes reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, herpes: the reaction may be beyond the test area;
4 very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction): obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, fusional herpes: the reaction goes beyond the test area.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0001852662950000151
From the above conclusion of table 4, it can be seen that: the results of the human skin patch test showed that 0 out of 30 cases showed positive reactions in examples 1 to 5. Therefore, the subject did not cause adverse skin reactions to the subjects of this batch as specified in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition). The results show that the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 of the present invention are non-irritating to the skin and have no positive response. In comparative examples 1-6, 1 example of each of the suspicious reactions occurred in comparative examples 1 and 3-4; comparative examples 2 and 5 showed weak positive reactions of 1 example each; the commercial moisturizer showed weak positive reaction in 2 cases. Therefore, compared with the common moisturizing cream product, the moisturizing cream with the lasting moisturizing effect is milder and has no stimulation.
4. Efficacy test
The principle of testing moisture by using a Corinometer CM825 as a German CK skin moisture tester is based on the fact that the dielectric constant (<7) of water and other substances is changed greatly, and a measuring capacitor with a proper shape can change along with the change of the capacitance of the skin according to the difference of the water content, and the moisture content of the skin is measured when the capacitance of the skin is in a measuring range.
4.1 technical parameters
1. The test principle is as follows: the capacitive principle;
2. area of the test head: 7 x 7mm2
3. And (3) probe parameters: a length of about 11 cm;
4. measurement time frequency: 0.9-1.2 MHZ;
5. and (3) testing pressure: 1.1-1.5N;
6. precision: plus or minus 3 percent;
7. numerical ranges: 0 to 130;
8. weight: about 41 g.
The inner forearm of 80 female users who had dry skin or were believed to have dry skin between 30 and 40 years old, were applied with each of the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-6 above and a commercial moisturizing cream using a german CK skin moisture tester, Corneometer CM 825. Before the start of application, the skin moisture content of each subject was measured under conditions of constant temperature and constant humidity (21 ℃ and 40% humidity) using a skin moisture tester, and as a reference value, the changes in the skin moisture content of the initial value after application (T0) and 30 minutes after application (T1), 4 hours (T2) and 8 hours after application (T3) were measured, and the test results are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0001852662950000161
As can be seen from the test results of table 5, in the case of using the moisturizing creams of examples 1 to 5, the skin moisture content 30 minutes after use was more increased than that of the commercial moisturizing creams of comparative examples 1 to 6, and the skin moisturizing performance lasted for 8 hours or more. In examples 4 to 5, the increase in skin moisture content was small compared to the increase in skin moisture content of examples 1 to 3, due to the low content of shea butter. Comparative examples 3 and 4 were unable to determine skin moisture content due to poor formulation stability, resulting in oil separation and emulsifier breakdown.
5. Questionnaire survey test
Questionnaires for alleviating the effect of dry skin were conducted on 30 subjects. The effect was evaluated using 5 ratings, the evaluation values (5 ratings) were averaged and are shown in table 6 below.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0001852662950000171
As can be seen from the results of table 6 above, the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 of the present invention having a long-lasting moisturizing effect have better skin dryness relieving effects than the moisturizing creams of comparative examples 1,2, 5, 6 and the commercial moisturizing cream. Also, since comparative examples 3 and 4 had poor stability, so that oil and fat were separated and the emulsifier was destroyed, questionnaire investigation could not be conducted for these reasons.
The above description is only for the specific embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily conceive of the changes or substitutions within the technical scope of the present invention, and all the changes or substitutions should be covered within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the appended claims.

Claims (13)

1. The moisturizing cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
grease: 5 to 40 percent;
emulsifier: 2.1-20%;
humectant: 1 to 40 percent;
thickening agent: 0.1-2%;
skin conditioner: 1 to 10 percent;
the emulsifier comprises a compound emulsifier, the compound emulsifier is polyglycerol-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglycerol-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol, and the addition amount of the polyglycerol-6 distearate and jojoba esters and polyglycerol-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol is 3.5-6% by mass of the moisturizing cream;
besides the compound emulsifier, the emulsifier also comprises lecithin, cetostearyl alcohol and acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium;
the skin conditioning agent comprises oat glucan and panthenol.
2. The moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the oil is added in an amount of 15-35% by mass; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 3-8%; the addition amount of the humectant is 10-25%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.1-1%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 5-10%.
3. The moisturizing cream of claim 2, wherein the oil is added in an amount of 10-35% by mass; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 2.5-10%; the addition amount of the humectant is 5-30%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.1-2%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 2-10%.
4. The moisturizing cream of any of claims 1-3, wherein the oil comprises one or a combination of two or more of the phytosterols macadamia oleate, shea butter, sunflower seed oil, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol myristate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethylhexanoate), cetyl ethylhexanoate, dimethicone alcohol, and cyclopentadimethicone.
5. the moisturizing cream of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the moisturizer comprises one or a combination of two or more of 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, pentanediol, sorbitol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, trehalose, betaine, xylitol, pullulanase, glyceryl polyether-26, β -glucan, methyl gluceth-20, methyl gluceth-10, erythritol, bioglycan-1, rhamnose, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycols, and sodium hyaluronate.
6. A moisturizing cream according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the thickener comprises one or a combination of two or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, pectin, acacia gum, sclerotium rolfsii, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, rugby carrageenan extract and sodium polyacrylate.
7. The moisturizing cream of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of tocopheryl acetate, panthenol, chamomile water, aloe vera leaf juice powder, a polypeptide, niacinamide, oat glucan, adenosine, rosa multiflora flower extract, lavender flower water, and centella asiatica extract.
8. The moisturizing cream of any of claims 1-3, further comprising a preservative and/or an aromatizer; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.2-3% by mass of the moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the aromatizer is 0-0.2%.
9. The moisturizing cream of claim 8, wherein the preservative is added in an amount of 0.2-2% by mass of the moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the aromatizer is 0.01-0.2%.
10. The moisturizing cream of claim 9, wherein the preservative is added in an amount of 0.2-1.5% by mass of the moisturizing cream; the addition amount of the aromatizer is 0.01-0.15%.
11. The moisturizing cream of any of claims 1-3, further comprising one or a combination of two or more of a pH adjusting agent, a free radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film former, a stabilizer, and a pigment.
12. The moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier further comprises one or a combination of two or more of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate.
13. A method of making a moisturizing cream according to any of claims 1-12, comprising the step of mixing the components of the moisturizing cream.
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