CN108703909A - 一种具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物及其在化妆品中的应用 - Google Patents
一种具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物及其在化妆品中的应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明的目的是提供一种具有突出抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,以及应用该具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物的具有美白、保湿、抗皱功效的化妆品及其制备方法。化妆品,由以下重量份数的原料制成:去离子水130~150份、黄原胶0.6~0.8份、椰油酰肌氨酸钠6~8份、赤藓醇1~1.5份、乙酰壳糖胺1~1.5份、月桂基两性醋酸钠4~5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.8~1份、熊果苷2.5~3份、丁二醇8~10份、甘油4~5份、光果甘草提取物2.5~3份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2~4份、桃红侧耳提取物2~4份、绿茶提取物3~5份、洋甘菊提取物2.5~3份、甘油十一碳烯酸酯1~1.5份。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于生物与化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物及其在化妆品中的应用。
背景技术
化妆品中的抗皱成分有,维生素e(生育酚)应用最多的抗老成分之一,属于人体主要的脂溶性抗氧化物,可以清除体内自由基以阻断氧化反应的生成,并减轻和修复细胞膜损伤,达到抵抗衰老的作用。未精制的植物油、杏仁、坚果油等都含有较多的维生素e。维生素c,水溶性物质,能够重建真皮表皮结合部,促进胶原纤维生成。此外还具有很强的清除自由基能力,同时也是增强身体免疫力不可缺少的成分。胜肽是近几年来抗衰美容的新方向,被很多药妆品牌使用。一般来说,胜肽能促进胶原蛋白,弹力纤维和透明质酸增生,提高肌肤的含水量,增加皮肤厚度以及减少细纹。从植物中提取的植物多酚类是很好的抗氧化剂,据说它能够清除体内自由基,抑制氧化反应的进行,而且大多具有抗敏性,因而广泛应用于保养品当中。常见的植物多酚包括葡萄多酚、茶多酚、石榴多酚、红酒多酚,最近咖啡多酚也被证实具有很强的抗氧化效果。熊果酸是存在于天然植物中的一种三萜类化合物,具有镇静、抗炎、抗菌等多种生物学效应。除此之外,熊果酸还具有明显的抗氧化功能,因而被广泛地用作医药和化妆品原料。烟酸也就是维生素b3,在身体内转化成盐酸酰胺。能消除肌肤炎症、延缓肌肤衰老的功效。保湿组分有,洋甘菊、尿囊素、维生素B5、透明质酸等。这些营养成分和生理活性物质能促进皮肤毛细血管扩张和血液循环,促进皮肤氧化还原,改善皮肤营养状态,对皮肤有滋润、减轻皱纹、减少色素沉着等作用。其中透明质酸有在细胞间基质中保持水分的能力,是重要的保湿剂原料。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有突出抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,以及应用该具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物的具有美白、保湿、抗皱功效的化妆品及其制备方法。
本发明具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,由以下原料制成:核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、绿茶提取物。
作为优化,该具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,由以下重量份数的组分组成:核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2~4份、桃红侧耳提取物2~4份、绿茶提取物3~5份。
具有抗皱抗老化功效组合物的化妆品,由以下组分:去离子水、乳化剂、保湿剂、防腐剂、舒缓抗敏剂、润肤剂、复合美白剂、所述具有抗皱抗老化功效组合物。
作为优化,乳化剂包括椰油酰肌氨酸钠、月桂基两性醋酸钠;保湿剂包括赤藓醇、乙酰壳糖胺;复合美白剂包括抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、光果甘草提取物。
化妆品,由以下重量份数的原料制成:去离子水130~150份、黄原胶0.6~0.8份、椰油酰肌氨酸钠6~8份、赤藓醇1~1.5份、乙酰壳糖胺1~1.5份、月桂基两性醋酸钠4~5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.8~1份、熊果苷2.5~3份、丁二醇8~10份、甘油4~5份、光果甘草提取物2.5~3份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2~4份、桃红侧耳提取物2~4份、绿茶提取物3~5份、洋甘菊提取物2.5~3份、甘油十一碳烯酸酯1~1.5份。
制备化妆品的方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将所述重量份数的去离子水、黄原胶混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入所述重量份数的椰油酰肌氨酸钠、赤藓醇、乙酰壳糖胺搅拌均匀;
(2)将所述重量份数的月桂基两性醋酸钠、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、丁二醇、甘油混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将所述重量份数的光果甘草提取物、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、绿茶提取物、洋甘菊提取物混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入所述重量份数的甘油十一碳烯酸酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
本发明具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,含有核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取、桃红侧耳提取物、绿茶提取物三个组分,具有协同增效的作用;能够抑制弹性蛋白酶的活性,促进HDF-a细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ,清除人体自由基,具有十分突出的抗皱抗老化功效。
该化妆品乳霜中,赤藓醇、乙酰壳糖胺组成保湿因子,具有极佳的保湿功效;而抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、光果甘草提取物组成复方美白组分,具有多方位的美白增效效果。因此应用该具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物的化妆品,具有优异的的美白、保湿功效;以及突出的抗皱抗老化功效;稳定性高/刺激性小,舒缓抗敏效果佳。
附图说明
图1 对弹性蛋白酶抑制作用随浓度变化图。
图2 不同组Col-I的分泌量实验结果图。
图3 不同组皮肤粗糙和皮肤皱纹深度值变化结果表2。
图4 不同组保湿效果测试结果表3。
具体实施方式
下面给出的实施例拟对本发明作进一步说明,但不能理解为是对本发明保护范围的限制,本领域技术人员根据本发明内容对本发明的一些非本质的改进和调整,仍属于本发明的保护范围。
本发明中桃红侧耳提取物可以有效地抑制弹性蛋白酶的活性,从而起到增强皮肤弹性,减少皱纹及色素沉着,延缓皮肤衰老等作用。可以通过以下方法提取:将桃红侧耳(Pleruotus salmoneostramineus L. Vass.)微粉碎过120~200目筛;将桃红侧耳粉置入浸提罐中,按照料液比1:20加入体积浓度为80%的乙醇,于55~60℃温度下循环浸提2~3h,然后8000r/min离心10分钟,取上清液,减压浓缩,经低温干燥,即得。
抑制弹性蛋白酶试验:弹性蛋白酶(Elastase)会使皮肤真皮中支撑皮肤结构的弹性蛋白被过度的降解,从而使皮肤产生皱纹、松弛无弹性等衰老症状。采用分光光度法测定对弹性蛋白酶的抑制率。以刚果红-弹性蛋白为底物,弹性蛋白被酶分解后,刚果红会脱落,测定溶液中刚果红的含量以表征酶活性。三角烧瓶中加入刚果红-弹性蛋白及硼酸缓冲溶液,置于37℃水浴中预热10 min,然后加入不同浓度的试验溶液及0.2 mg/mL弹性蛋白酶溶液,具体见表1。
将上述反应体系置于37℃恒温水浴振荡器中振摇20min,立即加入5.0mLpH6.0磷酸缓冲溶液混合终止反应,于5000r/min下离心15min。准确吸取上清液2.0 mL,加入pH8.8硼酸缓冲液和pH 6.0磷酸缓冲液等量混合液2.0 mL,充分摇匀并于495 nm测定其吸光度,抑制率计算公式如下:抑制率=(1-(A1 -A2)/(B1 -B2))×100%。实验结果见图1可见桃红侧耳提取物对弹性蛋白酶的IC50值为1.73 mg/mL,说明桃红侧耳提取物对弹性蛋白酶抑制作用明显。
核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物能够促进HDF-a细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ,从而达到抗衰老的功效,可以采用以下方法提取:将核桃青皮干燥后粉碎加入10~12倍量纯净水混合,100~120℃灭菌后,室温接种活化的凝结芽孢杆菌菌液,接种量为1.5%~2.5%;放入47℃恒温箱中,培养3~4天;然后将培养物在35~45℃低温烘干,再加入6~9倍量的70~80%的乙醇,超声提取3次,超声频率60kHz, 功率330W,每次90~120分钟,过滤,活性炭脱色,离心得上清液,减压浓缩,真空冷冻干燥,即得。
核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物对HDF-a细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ的影响:取指数生长期HDF-a细胞1×105个/mL,接种于96孔培养板,每孔100μL,于37 ℃,CO2培养箱中培养。24h后取上清液,3000r/min 离心10min。离心后按照试剂盒说明书,取上清液进行实验,依次与生物素标记抗体、HRP标记链霉亲和素、显色底物和终止液作用。以空白孔调零,在终止后15min内,在450nm波长处测量各孔的OD值。根据标准品的浓度及对应的OD值,计算出标准曲线的回归方程,再根据样本的OD 值计算对应的Col-Ⅰ浓度,最终浓度为实际测定浓度乘以稀释倍数。
在皮肤老化的过程中,细胞内MAPK信号通路被激活。该通路抑制转化生长因子β(TGF-β) 的表达同时上调基质金属蛋白酶( MMP)的水平,最终导致细胞中Col-Ⅰ分泌量降低,引起皮肤老化。所以Col-Ⅰ的分泌量是反应皮肤衰老的最直观指标。通过ELISA 法检测核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物对自然状态下HDF-a细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ的影响,核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物质量浓度为10-20mg/mL下进行抗衰老功效的考察,结果见(图2)。核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物能有效增加HDF-a 细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ的含量,可作为抗衰老化妆品添加剂应用。20mg/mL组分泌量为129.89mg /L,Col-Ⅰ分泌量提高了40.3%。
绿茶提取物中茶多酚有助于延缓衰老茶多酚具有很强的抗氧化性和生理活性,是人体自由基的清除剂。可选择西安优硕生物科技有限公司98%茶多酚绿茶提取物。
实施例1:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、赤藓醇1.2份、乙酰壳糖胺1.3份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物3份、桃红侧耳提取物2.8份、绿茶提取物3.2份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
实施例2:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水130份、黄原胶0.6份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠6份、赤藓醇1份、乙酰壳糖胺1份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.8份、熊果苷2.5份、丁二醇8份、甘油4份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.5份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2份、桃红侧耳提取物2份、绿茶提取物3份、洋甘菊提取物2.5份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
实施例3:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水150份、黄原胶0.8份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠8份、赤藓醇1.5份、乙酰壳糖胺1.5份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷1份、熊果苷3份、丁二醇10份、甘油5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物3份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物4份、桃红侧耳提取物4份、绿茶提取物5份、洋甘菊提取物3份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.5份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
对比例1:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、赤藓醇1.2份、乙酰壳糖胺1.3份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物9份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
对比例2:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、赤藓醇1.2份、乙酰壳糖胺1.3份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、桃红侧耳提取物9份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
对比例3:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、赤藓醇1.2份、乙酰壳糖胺1.3份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、绿茶提取物9份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
抗衰抗皱测试:共选取96名志愿者,分为6组,分别采用实施例1~3和对比例1~3,测试部位为两侧脸颊和眼角,每天使用2次,洁面后使用;在使用化妆品前1天,使用后30d,使用MicroSkinII 多功能皮肤镜图像分析系统测定皮肤平均粗糙度和皱纹平均深度数值变化,计算平均值,见表2。通过表2变化率可见,使用本发明实施例1~3相对于对比例1~3,抗皱效果突出,皮肤粗糙和皮肤皱纹深度值显著改善。
实施例4:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、乙酰壳糖胺2.5份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物3份、桃红侧耳提取物2.8份、绿茶提取物3.2份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
实施例5:化妆品制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)将去离子水140份、黄原胶0.75份混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入椰油酰肌氨酸钠7份、赤藓醇2.5份搅拌均匀;
(2)将月桂基两性醋酸钠4.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.9份、熊果苷2.6份、丁二醇9份、甘油4.5份混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将光果甘草提取物2.7份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物3份、桃红侧耳提取物2.8份、绿茶提取物3.2份、洋甘菊提取物2.6份混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入甘油十一碳烯酸酯1.3份酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
保湿效果测试:采用水分测试仪Corneometer (CM825,C+K公司,德国)测试水分含量。其度量所用单位A.C.U.;采用皮肤水份流失(TEWL)测试仪Tewameter(TM300, C+K公司,德国)测试水分流失率,皮肤保护层越完好,水份的含量就会越高,皮肤水份流失TEWL的数值就越低。测定环境:测试环境温度:22±3℃,湿度:50±5%。共选取66名试用者,分为三组,分别采用实施例1,对比例4-5。每天均匀涂敷两次,使用前测试初始值,一个月后测试结果,观察变化率,见表3。可见采用本发明的实施例1相对对比例4-5具有突出的协同保湿功效。
Claims (6)
1.一种具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,其特征在于由以下原料制成:核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、绿茶提取物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的具有抗皱抗老化功效的组合物,其特征在于由以下重量份数的组分组成:核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2~4份、桃红侧耳提取物2~4份、绿茶提取物3~5份。
3.一种应用权利要求1所述具有抗皱抗老化功效组合物的化妆品,其特征在于由以下组分:去离子水、乳化剂、保湿剂、防腐剂、舒缓抗敏剂、润肤剂、复合美白剂、所述具有抗皱抗老化功效组合物。
4.根据权利要求3所述的化妆品,其特征在于:所述乳化剂包括椰油酰肌氨酸钠、月桂基两性醋酸钠;所述保湿剂包括赤藓醇、乙酰壳糖胺;所述复合美白剂包括抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、光果甘草提取物。
5.根据权利要求4所述的化妆品,其特征在于由以下重量份数的原料制成:
去离子水130~150份、黄原胶0.6~0.8份、椰油酰肌氨酸钠6~8份、赤藓醇1~1.5份、乙酰壳糖胺1~1.5份、月桂基两性醋酸钠4~5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.8~1份、熊果苷2.5~3份、丁二醇8~10份、甘油4~5份、光果甘草提取物2.5~3份、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物2~4份、桃红侧耳提取物2~4份、绿茶提取物3~5份、洋甘菊提取物2.5~3份、甘油十一碳烯酸酯1~1.5份。
6.一种制备权利要求5所述化妆品的方法,其特征在于包括以下步骤:
(1)将所述重量份数的去离子水、黄原胶混合,加热到70~75℃,搅拌均匀;待降温到60~65℃,加入所述重量份数的椰油酰肌氨酸钠、赤藓醇、乙酰壳糖胺搅拌均匀;
(2)将所述重量份数的月桂基两性醋酸钠、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、丁二醇、甘油混合,加热至60~65℃,搅拌均匀;
(3)将所述重量份数的光果甘草提取物、核桃青皮凝结芽孢杆菌发酵提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、绿茶提取物、洋甘菊提取物混合均匀;
(4)将步骤(2)中的混合物,缓慢加入到步骤(1)中的混合物中,搅拌均匀;待降温到50~55℃,再加入步骤(3)中的混合物,搅拌均匀;
(5)待步骤(4)中的混合物,降温到35~40℃,加入所述重量份数的甘油十一碳烯酸酯,搅拌均匀;冷却出料,即得。
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