CN107822910A - Adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value and its application in cosmetics - Google Patents

Adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value and its application in cosmetics Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107822910A
CN107822910A CN201711138711.5A CN201711138711A CN107822910A CN 107822910 A CN107822910 A CN 107822910A CN 201711138711 A CN201711138711 A CN 201711138711A CN 107822910 A CN107822910 A CN 107822910A
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Prior art keywords
amino acid
acid composition
value
cosmetics
skin surface
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CN107822910B (en
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李丽
董银卯
孟宏
郑依
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Beijing Technology and Business University
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Beijing Technology and Business University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to an amino acid composition, and in particular to a kind of amino acid composition for adjusting skin surface pH value, the amino acid composition include histidine, glutamic acid and arginine.Present invention also offers application of the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value in cosmetics.Amino acid composition of the present invention realizes the pH value of stable cosmetic, and the effect of regulation skin ph, reduce the addition of raw material type in cosmetics, reduce the problem of formula easily occurred due to addition plurality of raw materials is unstable, the effect of cosmetics is improved, while reduces the production cost of cosmetics.

Description

Adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value and its application in cosmetics
Technical field
The present invention relates to an amino acid composition, and in particular to a kind of amino acid composition for adjusting skin surface pH value And its application in cosmetics.
Background technology
Normal skin surface pH value be 5.5 or so, when skin surface acid-base value maintain 5.5 it is horizontal when, to skin biology Function (especially epidermis Permeability barrier function) has important adjustment effect.In order to maintain skin surface acid-base value, do not destroy Skin surface acid-base balance, the pH scopes of formula are adjusted frequently by buffer substance in cosmetic formulations so that formula pH and Skin surface acid-base value is at utmost similar.Regulation formula pH value can not only reduce excitant of the alkaline cosmetics to skin, together When to maintain skin surface acid mantle formation and stably there is certain facilitation.It is first when designing cosmetic formulations The pH scopes of consideration formula system are first needed, the pH of existing cosmetics is adjusted by using pH adjusting agent.
Amino acid is needed by human body necessary nutrient matter, to maintaining body normal operation to play an important roll.Research finds, Also contain substantial amounts of amino acid in application on human skin, at the same amino acid be also the NMF (NMF) in epidermis most will group Into composition.
Histidine (Histidine) is to belong to basic amino acid or belong to its R in 20 kinds of amino acid of constitutive protein matter The polar amino acid of base band positive charge.Histidine contains an imidazole radicals in structure, and its pK value is 7 or so, therefore in physiology Proton and can release proton can be received in environment, there is larger buffer capacity in pH6~8[64].Silk polymeric protein is a kind of rich Albumen containing histidine, it is in skin NMF with important physiological action, its catabolite.NMF is present in cuticula The general name for some low molecular weight substances that can be combined with water, play an important roll to the physical property for maintaining keratoderma.
Arginine (Arginine) is a kind of multi-functional amino acid containing two basic groups and amino and guanidine radicals, in life Under the conditions of managing pH, belong to basic amino acid (pH10.5~12), two kinds of isomers of D-ARG and L-ARG in nature be present, its Middle L-ARG in animal body there is important nutrition physiology to act on[66], in addition, arginine is also one of free amino acid in NMF Part.
Glutamic acid (Glutamic acid) is acidic amino acid, and intramolecular contains two carboxyls.Containing a large amount of in people's epidermis Glutamic acid, 2-Pyrrolidone -5- carboxylic acids (PCA) are converted into angling process Glutamic Acid.PCA is a kind of dehydration chemical combination of closing Thing, there is high water absorbing ability, be widely used in cosmetics, there is higher accounting (10%) in NMF, be NMF important set Into composition, have the function that to keep moisture of skin.
At present on the market, existing multiple product adds amino acid as moisturizing ingredient, while is used in face cleaning product Surfactant containing amino acid group slows down the tight phenomenon of drying that common mildy wash occurs after washed.Due to ammonia Base acid have easily produces, property stably, it is safe the characteristics of so that it is through being widely used in cosmetic skin care product.It is existing Some cosmetics do not have also using amino acid its pH is adjusted.
Chinese patent application 201610768736.2 discloses a kind of sun-proof, moisturizing, the amino acid cosmetics of anti-aging, bag Amino acid composition and cosmetic base are included, according to the weight meter of amino acid composition, the amino acid composition includes:2~ 3% lysine, 0.5~1.1% histidine, 6~7% arginine, 5~6% aspartic acids, 7~8% threonines, 12~13% Serine, 12~13% glutamic acid, 8~9% proline, 5~6% glycine, 4~5% alanine, 5~6% valines, 0.5 ~1.1% methionine, 2~3% isoleucines, 6~7% leucines, 2~3% tyrosine, 1~2% phenylalanine, 15~ 16% cysteine, amino acid composition account for the 18~28% of cosmetics gross mass, and coordinate other cosmetic bases, prepare one Money safety, there are certain sun-proof, moisturizing, the natural biological extractive composition of anti-aging effects to skin.
Can be seen that from the patent application has moisturizing, sun-proof and anti-aging by compounding the composition of several amino acids The effect of, but it is not directed to regulation skin surface pH effects.The normal pH value in table skin surface is the good physiological status of skin Characterize, research shows that pH5.5 is skin optimum pH.When epiderm skin barrier is impaired, the pH value of skin surface is higher, and Regulation skin ph can promote the reparation of skin barrier when being in most suitable scope, and can maintain the microbial balance of skin surface. So research for skin care cosmetics, it is impossible to moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging part are only focused on, it should be further noted that regulation skin Skin pH value problem, it more preferably could effectively maintain skin health state.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome problems of the prior art, there is provided a kind of ammonia for adjusting skin surface pH value Base acid composition and its application in cosmetics, the amino acid composition can not only maintain the stabilization of the pH value of cosmetics, together When can adjust skin ph.
The technical scheme is that:The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, the amino acid composition includes Histidine, glutamic acid and arginine.
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
Histidine 2.60-3.60 parts,
Glutamic acid 4.50-5.70 parts,
Arginase 12 .50-3.50 parts.
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
Histidine 3.00-3.30 parts,
Glutamic acid 5.00-5.35 parts,
Arginase 12 .90-3.25 parts.
Further, the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value also includes water.
Further, the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value, the component of following content is included:
Further, the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value, the component of following content is included:
Further, the pH value of the amino acid composition is 5.4-5.6.
The sodium hydrogen that the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value of the present invention acts on regulation skin ph exchanges egg (NHE1) in vain, there is the function of regulation NHE1 expression, the high of suppression NHE1 albumen is expressed, and by the regulation of NHE1 albumen to normally Expression, and then realize the effect of regulation skin ph.
Present invention also offers application of the amino acid composition of the regulation skin surface pH value in cosmetics
Further, addition of the amino acid composition in cosmetics is 3.6-4.2wt%.Work as combination of amino acids For thing in content this content recklessly of cosmetics, the pH value of cosmetics maintains 5.4-5.6.
Further, addition of the amino acid composition in cosmetics is 4wt%.
Histidine, glutamic acid and arginine are carried out compounded combination by the present invention with optimum proportioning, are used it in cosmetics, Can not only stable cosmetic system pH value, while skin ph can be adjusted.By controlling it to make up in the content of cosmetics The pH of product is controlled in optimum value, and then preferably realizes that moisturizing, whitening and anti-aging of cosmetics etc. act on, the Maintenance Of Skin Health State.
Only with three kinds of amino acid in amino acid in amino acid composition of the present invention, you can realize stable cosmetic system PH value, and regulation skin ph effect, largely reduce the addition of raw material type in cosmetics, reduce by In add plurality of raw materials and the formula that easily occurs it is unstable the problem of, stability is good, improves the effect of cosmetics, drops simultaneously The low production cost of cosmetics, Product Safety are high.
Brief description of the drawings
Influence of Fig. 1 various concentrations amino acid composition to NHE1 protein expressions;
Fig. 2 contains the cream of different aminoacids composition with commercially available prod to human body skin pH value evaluation result.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
3.20 parts of histidine,
5.10 parts of glutamic acid,
3.00 parts of arginine.
Embodiment 2
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
3.00 parts of histidine,
5.00 parts of glutamic acid,
Arginase 12 .90 parts.
Embodiment 3
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
3.30 parts of histidine,
5.35 parts of glutamic acid,
3.25 parts of arginine.
Embodiment 4
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
2.60 parts of histidine,
4.50 parts of glutamic acid,
Arginase 12 .50 parts.
Embodiment 5
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
3.60 parts of histidine,
5.70 parts of glutamic acid,
3.50 parts of arginine.
Embodiment 6
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
The pH value of the amino acid composition of the present embodiment is 5.4-5.6.
Embodiment 7
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following content:
The pH value of the amino acid composition of the present embodiment is 5.4-5.6.
Embodiment 8
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following content:
The pH value of the amino acid composition of the present embodiment is 5.4-5.6.
Embodiment 9
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following content:
Embodiment 10
The pH value of the amino acid composition of the present embodiment is 5.4-5.6.
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following content:
The pH value of the amino acid composition of the present embodiment is 5.4-5.6.
Comparative example 1
The amino acid composition of skin surface pH value is adjusted, includes the component of following parts by weight:
2.3 parts of histidine,
6.0 parts of glutamic acid,
3.0 parts of arginine.
Regulation of the amino acid composition of test example 1 to sodium hydrogen exchanger (NHE1)
NHE1 albumen is a kind of memebrane protein of cell surface, by cell inner proton and extracellular Na+ion in strict accordance with 1:1 ratio Example swaps, and can adjust intracellular ph value.Research shows, adjustment effect of the NHE1 albumen to application on human skin surface pH value:Work as people During to lift skin surface pH value, the expression of NHE1 albumen can increase;Conversely, NHE1 expression weakens.
The cytotoxicity of amino acid composition of the present invention is determined, determines that maximal non-toxic adds concentration.Drawn by experiment:This The amino acid composition of invention no cytotoxicity when adding concentration≤4.2%.By the amino acid composition of embodiment 1 with difference Concentration acts on the HHacat cells (i.e. normal group) of NHE1 normal expressions and NHE1 expresses elevated Hacat cells (i.e. alkalescence Group), and citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution control group is set.The situation of each group is as follows:
(1) normal group:The content of amino acid composition is respectively 0,1.0wt%, 2.0wt%, 3.0wt% and 4.0wt%;
(2) alkaline group:The content of amino acid composition is respectively 0,1.0wt%, 2.0wt%, 3.0wt% and 4.0wt%, And pH is 8.0.
(3) control group:Concentration is 2% citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution (pH=5.2).
By above each group after 38 DEG C are cultivated 24h, the expression of NHE1 albumen is detected by ELISA-KIT, as a result such as Shown in Fig. 1, it can be obtained from Fig. 1, amino acid composition of the invention can be by under alkaline environment when adding concentration and being 4% The expression of NHE1 albumen is adjusted downward to normal expression, and the expression of NHE1 albumen reduces by 13.8%.Illustrate the amino acid group of 4% present invention Compound can adjust skin surface pH GAP-associated protein GAPs --- NHE1 expression, when NHE1, which is expressed, to be raised, and 4% amino acid composition energy Its expression is reduced to normal expression;When NHE1 normal expressions, 4% amino acid composition can maintain its normal expression.
The amino acid composition of the present invention, as embodiment 1-5 amino acid composition is acted on 3.6-4.2wt% concentration When HHacat cells, NHE1 can be maintained normal expression level.
Regulation of the amino acid composition of test example 2 to cosmetics pH
After tested, using the amino acid composition of the present invention, such as embodiment 1-5 amino acid composition, in cosmetics Addition when being 3.6-4.2wt%, the pH value of cosmetics can be maintained 5.4-5.6.
The amino acid composition of embodiment 1 and comparative example 1 is made an addition in cosmetics cream, cosmetics cream it is specific into Distribution ratio is shown in Table 1.
Wherein, the content of the amino acid composition of embodiment 1 is 4wt% in sample 1;
The content of the amino acid composition of the comparative example 1 of sample 2 is 4wt%.
Sample 1, sample 2 are subjected to human body skin pH test comparisons containing amino acid moisturizing cream with commercially available, pass through pH905 The pH value of 12 volunteer's 0h, 0.5h, 1h, 2h, 4h inboard arm skin is tested, experimental result is as shown in Figure 2.
The wherein commercially available composition containing amino acid moisturizing cream is as follows:Water, glycerine, cetanol ethylhexoate, butanediol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, hydroxy-ethyl acrylate/acryloyl diformazan Base Taurate Copolymer, saualane, Cer EOS, Cer NP, Cer AP II, phytosphingosine, cholesterine, the moon Osmanthus acyl dilactic acid sodium, Anjidew NL50, sodium lactate, arginine, aspartic acid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, glycine, alanine, silk ammonia Acid, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine, phenylalanine, two isooctadecanol malates, cetearyl alcohol The smooth stearate of alcohol, sorb, hydrolecithin, sugared sea-tangle (LAMINARIA SACCHARINA) extract, allantoin, glycerine are hard Resin acid ester SE, acrylic acid (ester) class/C10-30 alkylol acrylamide acid esters cross-linked polymer, xanthans, carbomer, tocopheryl acetate Ester, methyl stearyl sodium taurocholate, Phenoxyethanol, pungent glycol, Sensiva SC50,1,2- pentanediols, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, thoroughly Bright matter acid sodium, potassium hydroxide and EDETATE SODIUM.
Cosmetics cream formula table of the table 1 containing amino acid composition
As can be drawn from Figure 2, sample 1 is that the cosmetics cream of the amino acid composition containing the embodiment of the present invention 1 can be by skin PH value maintains 5.5 or so, and increases over time, and its pH is held essentially constant;The commercially available amino acid products that contain are by skin PH value regulation is below 5.5, less than the skin pH of the cosmetics cream regulation of amino acid composition of the present invention, and over time Increase, its pH is unstable;And the cosmetics cream that sample 2 is the amino acid composition containing comparative example 1 adjusts skin ph Less than 5.4, and increase over time, its pH value is gradually reduced, and after 4 hours, its skin pH is down to 5.2.Illustrate amino acid The composition and content of composition are larger to the performance impact of cosmetics cream, the cosmetics cream containing amino acid composition of the present invention Skin ph can be better maintained at 5.5 or so by frost.Therefore, amino acid composition of the invention, cosmetics can not only be adjusted PH in formula, while skin surface pH value can be adjusted by adjusting the expression of NHE1 albumen.
Above-mentioned detailed description is illustrating for one of them possible embodiments of the present invention, and the embodiment is simultaneously not used to The scope of the claims of the present invention is limited, all equivalence enforcements or change without departing from carried out by the present invention, is intended to be limited solely by the technology of the present invention In the range of scheme.

Claims (9)

1. adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value, it is characterised in that the amino acid composition includes histidine, paddy ammonia Acid and arginine.
2. adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value, it is characterised in that include the component of following parts by weight:
Histidine 2.60-3.60 parts,
Glutamic acid 4.50-5.70 parts,
Arginase 12 .50-3.50 parts.
3. adjust the amino acid composition of skin surface pH value, it is characterised in that include the component of following parts by weight:
Histidine 3.00-3.30 parts,
Glutamic acid 5.00-5.35 parts,
Arginase 12 .90-3.25 parts.
4. according to the amino acid composition described in the claim 1, it is characterised in that the ammonia of the regulation skin surface pH value Base acid composition also includes water.
5. the amino acid composition according to right wants law 4, it is characterised in that the amino of the regulation skin surface pH value Acid composition, include the component of following content:
6. amino acid composition according to claim 4, it is characterised in that the amino acid of the regulation skin surface pH value Composition, include the component of following content:
Histidine 3.00-3.30wt%,
Glutamic acid 5.00-5.35wt%,
Arginase 12 .90-3.25wt%.
7. amino acid composition according to claim 5, it is characterised in that the pH value of the amino acid composition is 5.4- 5.6。
8. amino acid composition the answering in cosmetics of the regulation skin surface pH value as described in claim any one of 1-7 With.
9. application according to claim 8, addition of the amino acid composition in cosmetics is 3.6- 4.2wt%.
CN201711138711.5A 2017-11-16 2017-11-16 The amino acid composition for adjusting skin surface pH value and its application in cosmetics Active CN107822910B (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113171335A (en) * 2020-01-08 2021-07-27 田咏轩 Polianthes tuberosa polysaccharide

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1159321A (en) * 1996-12-11 1997-09-17 林镇才 Active constitution cosmetic additive
CN106344424A (en) * 2016-08-31 2017-01-25 百朗德生物化学(海门)有限公司 Sun-proof, moisturizing and anti-aging amino acid cosmetic

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1159321A (en) * 1996-12-11 1997-09-17 林镇才 Active constitution cosmetic additive
CN106344424A (en) * 2016-08-31 2017-01-25 百朗德生物化学(海门)有限公司 Sun-proof, moisturizing and anti-aging amino acid cosmetic

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113171335A (en) * 2020-01-08 2021-07-27 田咏轩 Polianthes tuberosa polysaccharide

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