CN107788598B

CN107788598B - Sewing process method of shirt collar

Info

Publication number: CN107788598B
Application number: CN201710896545.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 程飞; 杜朝戈; 任晓阳; 王松; 王茂深; 卫淑
Original assignee: SHANXI BINGJUAN GARMENTS CO Ltd
Current assignee: SHANXI BINGJUAN GARMENTS CO Ltd
Priority date: 2017-09-28
Filing date: 2017-09-28
Publication date: 2020-04-07
Anticipated expiration: 2037-09-28
Also published as: CN107788598A

Abstract

The shirt collar using the sewing process has the advantages of symmetrical, stiff and smooth appearance, perfect three-dimensional appearance, sharp and definite collar tip, beautiful and smooth neckline appearance, and proper tightness and tightness of the combination of the collar surface and the collar lining, so that the shirt has the integral three-dimensional effect of attractive appearance, bulkiness and elegance. After timely washing for many times, the modeling contour of the collar is symmetrical and tangible. And the individual characteristic style can be increased for different collar shapes and different material properties. In the industrialized production of ready-made clothes, the specific parameters of the process can be adjusted according to the requirements of customers and the change of equipment.

Description

Sewing process method of shirt collar

Technical Field

The invention relates to a sewing process method of a shirt collar.

Background

The collar sewing method for men and women's lapel type shirt and high-grade business shirt series products is generally 1. the collar is made up by using two layers of high-temp. thick polyester-cotton lining through the process of bonding and sewing. 2. The collar tip is sewed by adding a plastic clothing accessory at the collar tip part in the sewing process. The two manufacturing effects are that left and right collar shapes are not easy to be symmetrical, after the collar is worn and washed for a long time, colloidal particles on the lining can easily fall off to cause the collar surface to blister, and the plastic product accessory supports the collar tip to be difficult to determine and control the shrinkage of the collar. These two conventional manufacturing methods directly affect the original appearance. By adopting the method, after the collar is manufactured, the surface and the inner of the collar are perfectly matched with the surface and the inner of the collar seat, and the shape of the collar can be always symmetrical, stiff and beautiful no matter what materials and process requirements.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of collar shape of shirt collar and provides a sewing process scheme with rapidness, low cost and high quality.

The invention adopts the following technical scheme;

step 1, cutting the collar surface A₁B₁C₁D₁ABCD and collar seat surface P with inner adhered polyester cotton lining layer₁K₁The inner side is stuck with a layer of polyester cotton lining PK, the ABCD line is used as the sewing line of the collar and the final moulding line, the PK upper line and the PK lower lineA lapel support structure being a collar-to-body joint;

step 2, marking H and L between the AC, wherein HC is equal to LA and is about 8-10cm, G and X are marked between the segment BD, and the segment GD is equal to the segment XB;

step 3, marking the PK on line F, M, W, F₁Wherein the segment FK is completely equal to F₁P, line MF equals WF₁. PK offline label J, N, where segment KN equals JP;

step 4, adhering a layer of non-ironing adhesive tape liner with equal width of 1cm to three sides of CQ, CA and AQ1, wherein C₂The angle of the angle is C, A, A₂The angles of the included angles are completely consistent;

step 5, in line segment A'₁C’₁Is marked with H'₁、L’₁Line segment A 'therein'₁L’₁Is equal to line segment H'₁C’₁. At line segment C'₁D’₁Labeled Q 'at line segment A'₁B’₁Is marked with Q'₁Line segment C 'thereof'₁Q 'is equal to line segment A'₁Q’₁3/4, about the neck length;

step 6, in P'₁K’₁Line marking M'₁、W’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁M’₁Is completely equal to P'₁W’₁. In P'₁K’₁Offline annotation N'₁、J’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁N’₁Is completely equal to line segment P'₁J’₁；

Step 7, sewing the fabrics in the step 4 and the step 5, wherein C 'is sewn under the fabrics in the step 4 and the step 5'₁Q 'and A'₁Q’₁Stretching the mixture until the stretching ratio R is 0.25-0.35 cm. Suture H'₁C’₁And A'₁L’₁Stretching the mixture until the stretching amount Y is 0.25-0.45 cm;

step 8, according to the sewing of the fabric of the step 7, performing step C₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁And evenly trimming the three edges to 0.6 cm.Two-angle equilateral flat shear distance A, C points 0.35cm, and then C₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁Ironing the three sides and shaping the collar tip A, C;

step 9, after the off-line segment KP in step 3 is evenly ironed according to the edge buckle, F, F in step 3₁M, W is stitched with D, B, G, X in step 8 and then with K 'in step 6'₁P’₁M 'of the line'₁、W’₁Step 9, performing point segmentation stitching;

and step 10, cutting and ironing the top lines of the KP at the surface and the back part of the bottom collar, wherein the fillet K, P is round and symmetrical, the drawing and printing of the lower opening at the back part of the bottom collar are that J points and J 'are overlapped, and the step 10 is carried out after N points and N' are overlapped.

Preferably, after the step 4 of the non-ironing adhesive tape lining, the step 10 is performed after the step 7, the step 8 and the step 9 of the step-by-step stretching amount sewing are performed.

The positive effects of the invention are as follows;

the shirt collar using the sewing process has the advantages of symmetrical, stiff and smooth appearance, perfect three-dimensional appearance, sharp and sharp collar tip, smooth neckline appearance and proper tightness matching between the collar surface and the collar lining, so that the shirt has the integral three-dimensional effect of beauty, bulkiness and elegance. After timely washing for many times, the modeling contour of the collar is symmetrical and tangible. And the individual characteristic style can be increased for different collar shapes and different material properties. In the industrialized production of ready-made clothes, the specific parameters of the process can be adjusted according to the requirements of customers and the change of equipment.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of step 2 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of step 3 of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of step 4 of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of step 5 of the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of step 6 of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of step 7 of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of step 8 of the present invention;

FIGS. 8-9 are schematic views of step 9 of the present invention;

FIG. 10 is a schematic diagram of step 10 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

In order to more clearly understand the technical solution of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to fig. 1 to 10.

The first embodiment is as follows:

1. cutting the collar surface A₁B₁C₁D₁ABCD (figure 1) with inner adhered polyester cotton lining and collar seat surface P of cut-parts₁K₁A polyester cotton lining PK is stuck inside the plastic (figure 2). Wherein (figure 1) the ABCD thread is the sewing thread and the final shaping thread of the collar. Wherein (fig. 2) the upper line and the lower line of PK are lapel supporting structures of the binding parts of the lapel and the body.

2. Let (FIG. 1) denote H and L between AC, HC equals LA about 8-10cm, G and X between segment BD, and segment GD equals segment XB.

3. The PK in (FIG. 2) is marked with F, M, W, F on line₁Wherein the segment FK is completely equal to F₁P, line MF equals WF₁. PK is off line labeled J, N, where segment KN equals JP.

4. The CQ, CA and AQ in the mixture (figure 1)₁The three sides of the non-ironing adhesive tape lining are bonded with a layer of non-ironing adhesive tape lining with the same width of 1cm (figure 3), wherein (figure 3) C₂The angle of the angle is C, A, A₂The angles are identical.

5. At line segment A '(FIG. 4)'₁C’₁Is marked with H'₁、L’₁Line segment A 'therein'₁L’₁Is equal to line segment H'₁C’₁. At line segment C'₁D’₁Labeled Q 'at line segment A'₁B’₁Is marked with Q'₁Line segment C 'thereof'₁Q 'is equal to line segment A'₁Q’₁About collar length 3/4.

6. In (FIG. 5) P'₁K’₁Line marking M'₁、W’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁M’₁Is completely equal to P'₁W’₁. In P'₁K’₁Offline annotation N'₁、J’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁N’₁Is completely equal to line segment P'₁J’₁。

7. Stitching (FIG. 3) and (FIG. 4) to (FIG. 6), (FIG. 3) up (FIG. 4), wherein (FIG. 4) stitches C'₁Q 'and A'₁Q’₁Stretching the mixture until the stretching amount is about 0.25-0.35 cm. H'₁C’₁And A'₁L’₁Stretching the mixture until the stretching amount is about 0.25-0.45 cm.

8. C according to the sewing completion (FIG. 6)₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁And evenly trimming the three edges to 0.6 cm. Two-angle equilateral flat shear distance A, C points 0.35cm (FIG. 7), and then C (FIG. 7)₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁Three sides were ironed and the collar tip A, C was shaped (fig. 8).

9. F, F in the step (figure 2) after the KP line of the lower line segment (figure 2) is evenly ironed according to the edge button₁M, W and D, B, G, X in (FIG. 8) were stitched together in a point-by-point manner, and then K 'in (FIG. 5)'₁P’₁M 'of the line'₁、W’₁And (5) performing point segmentation stitching (figure 9).

10. The upper lines of the part KP of the bottom collar surface (figure 2) and the bottom collar lining (figure 5) in figure 9 are cut and ironed, the round corner K, P is round and symmetrical, the lower mouth of the part KP of the bottom collar lining (figure 5) is drawn and printed by overlapping J points and J ', and the lower mouth of the part KP of the bottom collar lining (figure 10) is drawn by overlapping N points and N'.

And 4, after the step 4 of the non-ironing adhesive tape lining, step 10 is carried out after the step 7, the step 8 and the step 9 of step-by-step stretching amount sewing.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and all equivalent changes or modifications of the structure, characteristics and principles described in the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A sewing process method of shirt collar is characterized in that the process steps are as follows;

step 1, cutting the collar surface A₁B₁C₁D₁ABCD and collar seat surface P with inner adhered polyester cotton lining layer₁K₁A layer of polyester cotton lining PK is glued inside, the ABCD line is used as a sewing line and a final modeling line of the collar, and the PK upper line and the PK lower line are used as lapel supporting structures of the combination part of the collar and the body;

step 2, sequentially marking L and H between the line segments AC, wherein HC is equal to LA and is 8-10cm, X and G are sequentially marked between the line segments BD, and the line segment GD is equal to the line segment XB;

step 3, sequentially marking F on PK₁W, M, F, wherein the segment FK is completely equal to F₁P, line MF equals WF₁The lines are marked J, N in turn under PK, where the line segment KN equals JP;

step 4, aligning CQ, CA and AQ₁Three sides are bonded with a layer of non-ironing adhesive tape lining with equal width of 1cm, Q, Q₁Respectively on CD and AB lines, and adhering non-ironing adhesive tapes to CQ, CA and AQ₁The vertex of the corner at the inner side of the non-ironing adhesive tape is respectively marked with C₂And A₂In which C is₂The angle of the angle is C, A, A₂The angles of the included angles are completely consistent;

step 5, in line segment A'₁C’₁Are sequentially marked with L'₁、H’₁Line segment A 'therein'₁L’₁Is equal to line segment H'₁C’₁(ii) a At line segment C'₁D’₁Labeled Q 'at line segment A'₁B’₁Is marked with Q'₁Line segment C 'thereof'₁Q 'is equal to line segment A'₁Q’₁Neck collarLong 3/4;

step 6, in P'₁K’₁The upper line is marked with W'₁、M’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁M’₁Is completely equal to P'₁W’₁(ii) a In P'₁K’₁The lower line is marked with J'₁、N’₁Line segment K 'therein'₁N’₁Is completely equal to line segment P'₁J’₁；

Step 7, sewing the fabrics in the step 4 and the step 5, wherein the fabric in the step 4 is positioned above, the fabric in the step 5 is positioned below, and C 'is sewn'₁Q 'and A'₁Q’₁Stretching to obtain a stretch food R of 0.25-0.35cm, sewing H'₁C’₁And A'₁L’₁Stretching the mixture until the stretching amount Y is 0.25-0.45 cm;

step 8, C in the sewn fabric in the step 7₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁Evenly trimming the three edges to 0.6 cm; two-angle equilateral flat shear distance A, C points 0.35cm, and then C₁D₁、A₁C₁、A₁B₁Ironing the three sides and shaping the collar tip A, C;

step 9, after the off-line segment KP in step 3 is evenly ironed according to the edge buckle, F, F in step 3₁M, W is stitched with D, B, G, X in step 8 and then with K 'in step 6'₁P’₁M 'of the line'₁、W’₁Carrying out point sectional sewing;

and step 10, cutting and ironing the top lines of the KP at the surface and the back part of the bottom collar, wherein the fillet K, P is round and symmetrical, the drawing and printing of the lower opening at the back part of the bottom collar are that J points coincide with J ', and N points coincide with N'.

2. The sewing method of a shirt collar according to claim 1, wherein the step 10 is performed after the step 4 of non-ironing rubber strip lining, the step 7, the step 8 and the step 9 of step-by-step stretching amount sewing are performed.