CN109267256B - Splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabric - Google Patents
Splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN109267256B CN109267256B CN201811324055.2A CN201811324055A CN109267256B CN 109267256 B CN109267256 B CN 109267256B CN 201811324055 A CN201811324055 A CN 201811324055A CN 109267256 B CN109267256 B CN 109267256B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B93/00—Stitches; Stitch seams
Abstract
The invention provides a splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabric, which comprises the following steps: preparing a manual needle and a sewing thread for the parts to be spliced of the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece of the two pieces of double-sided fabric to be spliced; on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece, a manual needle is used for raising a first needle entering point of the needle for the first time, a knot is tied at the first needle entering point, and a thread obliquely upwards penetrates from the first needle entering point of the upper cut piece to the top surface of the upper cut piece; from the first needle outlet point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely downwards bypass the top surface of the upper cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section to the left side, and the needle moving of the second step is carried out; from the secondary needle entering point, the manual needle is obliquely threaded downwards to the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and penetrates out of the bottom surface, and needle walking of the fourth step is carried out; then, keeping the stitch pitch of the stitches uniform and consistent, and sequentially and alternately performing the operation of the sewing step until the completion; the spliced bone position is very flat, and the stitches are connected like a plurality of triangles, so that the uncomfortable feeling caused by the thickness of the bone position is avoided.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a sewing method of clothes cut pieces, in particular to a splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabrics.
Background
Along with the development of modern society, people have more and more clothes, and the aesthetic feeling of the clothes is required to be higher and higher. Most of the existing clothes can not be directly cut by one piece of cloth, and a plurality of pieces of cloth are often needed to be spliced into parts with different functions. Therefore, sewing is an important step in the production of clothing, and the panels of clothing require a large number of sewing operations. When the traditional clothes are sewn, the edges of the cut pieces to be sewn are generally adhered with the lining strips respectively, then the edges of each cut piece are sewn through sewing threads, the edges of the cut pieces are respectively serged, and the edges close to the cut pieces are sewn together after being pressed; the sewing method for splicing two cut pieces avoids the loose edges from being sewn by four threads or by five threads, and achieves the effect of lockstitching; secondly, because the lining strip is wider and has certain hardness, the seam allowance is wrinkled and uneven, and the appearance is directly influenced. And the existing sewing method is not good in integral holding, and the wearing comfort and the integral appearance aesthetic feeling of the clothes are influenced.
However, the existing sewing method of the cut pieces is not suitable for double-sided velvet, namely, a double-sided napped or fluffed fabric; in order to solve the problem, in the sewing process of garment manufacturing, a single-seam splicing technology is generally adopted, that is, in the splicing process of the conventional double-sided velvet fabric, taking the splicing of two double-sided velvet fabrics as an example, the splicing part of one fabric is split into two layers, and then the two layers are respectively sewn on two sides of the splicing part of the other fabric, so that the splicing of the two double-sided velvet fabrics is completed. However, the single-slit splicing process is adopted, the thickness of the spliced part of the fabric is required to be thick enough, otherwise the fabric cannot be split into two layers; secondly, at the splicing part of the single-slit splicing technology, a boundary part of the double-sided velvet fabric layer which is divided into two layers and the double-sided velvet fabric layer which is not divided into two layers has an obvious boundary line caused by height difference; the splicing seams at the splicing parts of the single-split splicing technology are not flat, the splicing traces are too obvious, and the excessive obvious splicing seam traces can make the whole garment messy and complicated, so that the integral attractiveness of the garment is influenced; moreover, the edge of the spliced double-sided velvet fabric is easy to have thread ends and hair balls. In conclusion, the conventional single-seam splicing technology for the double-sided suede fabric sheet has the technical problems of thick splicing seam thickness, uneven splicing seam, obvious trace and easiness in starting of thread ends and hair balls.
Therefore, aiming at the thin double-sided velvet fabric, a sewing method which can be used for flattening the surface of a sewing line and ensuring the beautiful effect is urgently needed.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides the splicing needle method for splicing and sewing the double-sided fabric, which is used for completing the splicing of the cloth edges, has good edge locking effect and attractive appearance and accords with the aesthetic sense of modern people.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme is as follows:
the splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing the double-sided fabric comprises the following steps:
a. aligning the cutting edges of the parts to be spliced of the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece of the two double-sided fabric to be spliced, and orderly placing the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece in an up-down overlapped manner to prepare a manual needle and a sewing thread;
b. determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece as a first needle entering point of a first needle raising of a manual needle on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece, then making a knot at the first needle entering point, carrying out first-step needle moving on the manual needle, threading the needle from the first needle entering point of the upper cut piece to the top surface of the upper cut piece in an upward direction, and penetrating out of the top surface, wherein the penetrating position of the manual needle from the top surface of the upper cut piece is a first needle outlet point, and the width of the first needle outlet point away from the cutting edge of the upper cut piece is 1-3 mm;
c. from the first needle outlet point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely downwards bypass the top surface of the upper cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section to the left side, and the needle moving of the second step is carried out;
d. determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge of the lower side cloth of the lower cut piece on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece as a secondary needle inserting point of a manual needle for the second time, and performing needle moving in the third step;
e. from the secondary needle feeding point, the manual needle is obliquely threaded downwards to the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and penetrates out of the bottom surface, needle walking of the fourth step is carried out, the penetrating position of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece is a second needle outlet point, and the distance between the second needle outlet point and the cutting edge of the lower cut piece is 1-3 mm;
f. then, the same point with the position of the second needle-out point is used as the third needle-in point of the third needle-in of the manual needle, and the needle moving of the fifth step is carried out;
g. sequentially and obliquely upwards penetrates through the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece from the same point as the second needle outlet point, and the needle is taken out from the same point as the first needle outlet point to carry out needle walking of a sixth step;
h. after the needle is taken out from the same point with the first needle-out point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely and downwards pass by the top surface and the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece towards the right side, and the needle walking of the seventh step is carried out, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread walking in the third step is alpha;
i. then, on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the lower side cloth of the lower cut piece as a fourth needle entering point of a fourth manual needle entering, and carrying out needle moving in the eighth step;
j. then, threading the needle on the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and penetrating out of the bottom surface, wherein the penetrating part of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece is a fourth needle outlet point, and the width of the fourth needle outlet point to the cutting edge of the lower cut piece is 1-3 mm;
k. then, on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece as a fifth needle entering point of a fifth needle entering of a manual needle, enabling the manual needle and a sewing thread to obliquely and upwards bypass the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section from a fourth needle outlet point to the right side, entering the fifth needle entering point, and carrying out a ninth step of needle walking, wherein an included angle between the sewing thread walking in the ninth step and the sewing thread walking in the seventh step is equal to an included angle alpha between the sewing thread walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread walking in the third step;
secondly, threading the manual needle from the five needle-in points obliquely upwards onto the top surface of the upper cut piece and penetrating out of the top surface, wherein the penetrating part of the manual needle from the top surface of the upper cut piece is a fifth needle outlet point, and the width of the fifth needle outlet point to the cutting edge of the upper cut piece is 1-3 mm;
m, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the lower fabric of the lower cut piece on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece as a sixth needle entering point of a manual needle for sixth needle entering, and moving the manual needle and a sewing thread to pass the top surface of the upper cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section in a right-side downward inclined mode from a fifth needle outlet point to the sixth needle entering point to perform the tenth step, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread moving in the tenth step and the sewing thread moving in the ninth step is equal to the included angle alpha between the sewing thread moving in the seventh step and the sewing thread moving in the third step;
and n, keeping the stitch distances of the stitches uniform and consistent, sequentially and alternately repeating the steps i to m, enabling the sewing threads to pass through the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece, and tensioning the sewing threads on the upper side and the lower side by each stitch until the sewing is finished.
Furthermore, the splicing seam at the sewing position between the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece is positioned once every 30CM of length is finished, and the cloth edge is fixed by checking and fastening the seam.
Further, the sewing thread is a thread with 20 yarns and 3-ply thickness.
Furthermore, the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece are both made of double-sided fabric which is made of natural materials of wool and has a certain thickness.
Further, the included angle alpha ranges from 30 degrees to 90 degrees.
Further, when the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece are sewn and spliced, the needle pitch range determined according to different fabric thicknesses is 12-19 needles per 3 cm.
The invention has the advantages that:
the invention relates to a sewing process for double-sided wool fabric splicing seams, the overall effect of the clothes after sewing is clean and beautiful, and the clothes have practicability and beauty, compared with the conventional single-split sewing technology, two cut pieces are sewn together, 3% -5% more cloth loss rate needs to be reserved for the whole clothes, and the manufacturing cost is increased. The final thickness of the spliced part of the sewing process is only the thickness of the double-sided wool fabric, compared with the thickness of the double-sided velvet fabric which is three times of that of the single-split seam splicing technology, the spliced part has almost no connection thickness, the height of the joint part between two pieces of double-sided velvet fabric is uniform, and no obvious height drop exists, so that the joint and sewn part is flat and tidy, the splicing trace is shallow, and the advantages of thin spliced part and flat and shallow splicing seam are achieved.
Moreover, the splicing technology of the invention exerts the traditional manual skill to the full extent, does not need any sewing machine, does not need to reserve the cloth loss rate, and the cloth utilization rate reaches 95-98%; the splicing technology can well avoid the thickness of the bone position, the cut cloth edge is utilized for sewing, the quality sense is extremely strong, and particularly, the cut edge can be natural, beautiful and tidy when being connected with the fabric made of double-faced nylon material; the bone position after the concatenation is very level and smooth, and the stitch is pleasing to the eye to be put in order, and the form is like a plurality of "triangle-shaped" and links to each other, and the pulling force is firm, need not worry scattered limit, and the bone position that has been accomplished with the sewing and sewing bone car in the current processing is sewed up and can be protruded a impression, has avoided the thickness of bone position to bring uncomfortable sensation for people's dress.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is an enlarged schematic view of the needle and thread threading trajectory of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the structure of the needle thread on the cloth after the stitch sewing by the stitch-bonding method of the present invention;
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific examples.
The stitching method for stitching and sewing the double-sided fabric as shown in fig. 1 and 2 comprises the following steps:
a. cutting edges of parts to be spliced of an upper cut piece X and a lower cut piece Y of two double-sided fabrics to be spliced are aligned and are placed in order in a vertically overlapped mode, a manual needle and sewing threads are prepared, wherein the sewing threads are 20 yarns with 3 strands of thickness, and the upper cut piece X and the lower cut piece Y are both formed by cutting double-sided fabrics made of natural materials of wool and have certain thicknesses;
b. on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece X, determining a position 2 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece X as a first needle entering point of a first needle raising of a manual needle, then making a knot at the first needle entering point, carrying out first-step needle moving on the manual needle, obliquely and upwards threading the upper surface of the upper cut piece X from the first needle entering point of the upper cut piece X, and enabling the upper surface to penetrate out of the upper surface, wherein the penetrating position of the manual needle from the upper surface of the upper cut piece X is a first needle outlet point, and the cutting edge width of the first needle outlet point away from the upper cut piece X is 2 mm;
c. from the first needle outlet point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely and downwards move to the left side to pass by the top surface of the upper cut piece X and the longitudinal cutting section, and the needle moving of the second step is carried out;
d. determining a position 2 mm away from the edge of the lower fabric of the lower cut piece Y on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece Y as a secondary needle inserting point of a manual needle for the second time, and performing needle moving in the third step;
e. from the secondary needle feeding point, the manual needle is obliquely threaded downwards to the bottom surface of the lower cut piece Y and penetrates out of the bottom surface, needle walking of the fourth step is carried out, the penetrating position of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece Y is a second needle outlet point, and the distance between the second needle outlet point and the cutting edge of the lower cut piece Y is 2 mm;
f. then, the same point with the position of the second needle-out point is used as the third needle-in point of the third needle-in of the manual needle, and the needle moving of the fifth step is carried out;
g. sequentially and obliquely upwards penetrates through the upper cut piece X and the lower cut piece Y from the same point as the second needle outlet point, and the needle is taken out from the same point as the first needle outlet point to carry out needle walking of the sixth step;
h. after the needle is taken out from the same point with the first needle-out point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely and downwards pass by the top surface and the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece X towards the right side, and the needle walking of the seventh step is carried out, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread walking in the third step is alpha, and the value of the included angle alpha is 60 degrees;
i. then, on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece Y, determining a position which is 2 mm away from the edge height of the fabric below the lower cut piece Y as a fourth needle entering point of the manual needle for the fourth needle entering, and performing needle moving in the eighth step;
j. then, threading the needle on the bottom surface of the lower cut piece Y and penetrating out of the bottom surface, wherein the penetrating part of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece Y is a fourth needle outlet point, and the width of the fourth needle outlet point to the cutting edge of the lower cut piece Y is 2 mm;
k. then, on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece X, determining a position 2 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece X as a fifth needle entering point of a fifth needle entering of the manual needle, enabling the manual needle and the sewing thread to obliquely and upwards bypass the bottom surface of the lower cut piece Y and the longitudinal cutting section from a fourth needle outlet point to the right side, entering the fifth needle entering point, and carrying out the ninth step of needle walking, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread of the needle walking in the ninth step and the sewing thread of the needle walking in the seventh step is equal to the included angle alpha between the sewing thread of the needle walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread of the needle walking in the third step;
secondly, threading the manual needle onto the top surface of the upper cut piece X from the five needle-in points in an upward mode and penetrating out of the top surface, wherein a fifth needle outlet point is arranged at the penetrating position of the manual needle from the top surface of the upper cut piece X, and the width of the fifth needle outlet point to the cutting edge of the upper cut piece X is 2 mm;
m, determining a sixth needle entering point of a sixth needle entering of the manual needle at a position which is 2 mm away from the edge height of the fabric below the lower side of the lower cut piece Y on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece Y, and moving the manual needle and the sewing thread to pass the top surface of the upper cut piece X and the longitudinal cutting section in a downward inclined manner towards the right side from a fifth needle outlet point to the sixth needle inlet point to perform the tenth step, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread moving in the tenth step and the sewing thread moving in the ninth step is equal to the included angle alpha between the sewing thread moving in the seventh step and the sewing thread moving in the third step;
and n, keeping the stitch distances of the stitches uniform and consistent, sequentially and alternately repeating the steps i to m, enabling the sewing threads to pass between the upper cut piece X and the lower cut piece Y, and tensioning the sewing threads on the upper side and the lower side by sewing one stitch until the sewing is finished.
In addition, in the above steps, the length of the splicing seam at the sewing position between the upper cutting piece X and the lower cutting piece Y is positioned once every 30CM, and the sewing thread is checked and fastened to fix the selvedge. And according to different fabric thicknesses, the needle pitch range determined when the upper cut piece X and the lower cut piece Y are sewn and spliced is 12-19 needles per 3 cm.
The splicing and sewing process has the advantages that the overall effect of the sewn clothes is clean and attractive, the traditional manual skills are exerted to the greatest extent, no sewing machine is needed, the cloth loss rate is not required to be reserved, and the cloth utilization rate is as high as 95-98%; this concatenation technique can avoid the thickness of position of bone well, and the position of bone after the concatenation is very level and smooth, and the stitch is pleasing to the eye to be put in order, and the form is like a plurality of "triangle-shaped" and links to each other, and the pulling force is firm, does not worry scattered limit, has avoided sewing up with the position of bone that the sewing machine of sewing and sewing accomplished and can bulge out and come a impression, has avoided the thickness of position of bone to bring uncomfortable sensation for people's dress.
Claims (6)
1. The splicing stitching method for splicing and sewing the double-sided fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
a. aligning the cutting edges of the parts to be spliced of the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece of the two double-sided fabric to be spliced, and orderly placing the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece in an up-down overlapped manner to prepare a manual needle and a sewing thread;
b. on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece as a first needle entering point of a first needle raising of a manual needle, then making a knot at the first needle entering point, carrying out first-step needle moving by the manual needle, obliquely and upwards threading the top surface of the upper cut piece from the first needle entering point of the upper cut piece and penetrating out of the top surface, wherein a penetrating part of the manual needle from the top surface of the upper cut piece is a first needle outlet point, and the width of the first needle outlet point away from the cutting edge of the upper cut piece is 1-3 mm;
c. from the first needle outlet point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely downwards bypass the top surface of the upper cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section to the left side, and the needle moving of the second step is carried out;
d. determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge of the cloth at the lower side of the lower cut piece on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece as a secondary needle inserting point for the second needle inserting of the manual needle, and performing needle moving in the third step;
e. from the secondary needle entering point, the manual needle is obliquely threaded downwards onto the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and penetrates out of the bottom surface, needle walking of the fourth step is carried out, the penetrating part of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece is a second needle outlet point, and the distance between the second needle outlet point and the cutting edge of the lower cut piece is 1-3 mm;
f. then, the same point with the position of the second needle-out point is used as the third needle-in point of the third needle-in of the manual needle, and the needle moving of the fifth step is carried out;
g. sequentially and obliquely upwards penetrates through the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece from the same point as the second needle outlet point, and the needle is taken out from the same point as the first needle outlet point to carry out needle walking of a sixth step;
h. after the needle is taken out from the same point with the first needle-out point, the manual needle and the sewing thread obliquely and downwards pass by the top surface and the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece towards the right side, and the needle walking of the seventh step is carried out, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread walking in the third step is alpha;
i. then, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge of the lower side cloth of the lower cut piece in height on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece as a four-time needle entering point of a fourth-time needle entering of the manual needle, and performing needle walking in the eighth step;
j. then, threading the needle to the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and penetrating out of the bottom surface, wherein the penetrating part of the manual needle from the bottom surface of the lower cut piece is a fourth needle outlet point, and the width of the fourth needle outlet point to the cutting edge of the lower cut piece is 1-3 mm;
k. then, on the longitudinal cutting section of the upper cut piece, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the upper side cloth of the upper cut piece as a fifth needle entering point of a fifth needle entering of a manual needle, enabling the manual needle and a sewing thread to obliquely and upwards bypass the bottom surface of the lower cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section from a fourth needle outlet point to the right side, entering the fifth needle entering point, and performing needle walking in a ninth step, wherein an included angle between the sewing thread walking in the ninth step and the sewing thread walking in the seventh step is equal to an included angle alpha between the sewing thread walking in the seventh step and the sewing thread walking in the third step;
secondly, threading the hand needle onto the top surface of the upper cut piece from the five needle-in points obliquely upwards and penetrating out of the top surface, wherein the penetrating part of the hand needle from the top surface of the upper cut piece is a fifth needle outlet point, and the distance between the fifth needle outlet point and the cutting edge of the upper cut piece is 1-3 mm;
m, determining a position 1-3 mm away from the edge height of the cloth at the lower side of the lower cut piece on the longitudinal cutting section of the lower cut piece as a sixth needle entering point of a manual needle for the sixth needle entering, and moving the manual needle and a sewing thread to the right side obliquely and downwards to bypass the top surface of the upper cut piece and the longitudinal cutting section from a fifth needle outlet point to the sixth needle entering point to perform the tenth step, wherein the included angle between the sewing thread moving in the tenth step and the sewing thread moving in the ninth step is equal to the included angle alpha between the sewing thread moving in the seventh step and the sewing thread moving in the third step;
and n, keeping the stitch distances of the stitches uniform and consistent, sequentially and alternately repeating the steps i to m, enabling the sewing threads to pass through the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece, and tensioning the sewing threads on the upper side and the lower side by each stitch until the sewing is finished.
2. The stitching method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabric according to claim 1, wherein the splicing seam at the sewing position between the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece is checked and fastened to fix the selvage after the positioning is completed for 30 CM.
3. The stitching needle method for splicing and sewing double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the sewing thread is a thread of 20 yarns and 3-ply thickness.
4. The stitching needle method for stitching and sewing double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the upper cut piece and the lower cut piece are both cut from double-sided fabric with a certain thickness made of natural material of wool.
5. The stitching needle method for stitching and sewing double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the included angle α ranges from 30 ° to 90 °.
6. The stitching needle method for stitching and sewing double-sided fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stitch length determined according to different fabric thicknesses when the upper panel and the lower panel are stitched and spliced is in a range of 12 to 19 stitches per 3 cm.
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GB191420261A (en) * | 1914-09-28 | 1915-07-08 | Wallace Fairweather | Seam for Sewed Articles. |
GB463527A (en) * | 1935-08-14 | 1937-04-01 | Paul David Staiger | An improved method of joining superposed pieces of cloth |
JPH1181019A (en) * | 1997-08-28 | 1999-03-26 | Maruko Kk | Separable tape and clothing using the same |
CN100515247C (en) * | 2003-07-29 | 2009-07-22 | 山喜株式会社 | Dress material and method for producing dress material |
CN1704514A (en) * | 2004-05-31 | 2005-12-07 | 沈小菩 | Thread weaving seaming fabric and seaming method thereof |
CN105926177A (en) * | 2016-05-13 | 2016-09-07 | 利郎(中国)有限公司 | Sewing method for fabric joints in cold dyeing process |
CN106333411B (en) * | 2016-09-09 | 2017-12-26 | 珠海无用文化创意有限公司 | A kind of splicing skill of handling needles of cloth piece suture |
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