CN107519047B - 一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN107519047B
CN107519047B CN201710735485.2A CN201710735485A CN107519047B CN 107519047 B CN107519047 B CN 107519047B CN 201710735485 A CN201710735485 A CN 201710735485A CN 107519047 B CN107519047 B CN 107519047B
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田青平
王雨
景盼盼
谭笑
侯宏保
张淑秋
谢茵
杨冬娟
乔莉婕
曹瑞
卫晶晶
郝嘉敏
李鹏艳
李宁
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Abstract

将橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质复配得油相,然后加入表面活性剂、油溶性的皮肤活性成分以及香料、防腐剂等。用蒸馏水逐滴滴定成微乳后,加入用六偏磷酸钠溶液分散的TiO2以及甘油等水溶性活性成分,然后加入溶胀好的透明质酸、海藻酸钠及卡波姆980溶液,用三乙醇胺调节pH后脱气、灭菌即得。一种TiO2防晒纳米乳,各组分及其质量百分比为:TiO2为1‑5%、油相4‑6%、表面活性剂5.5‑12%、维生素E琥珀酸脂0.5‑1%,薄荷醇0‑0.8%、防腐剂0.1%,香料0.01‑0.02%、甘油3‑5%、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白0.2‑0.5%、六偏磷酸钠0.02%、熊果苷0.5%、卡波姆980为0.3%、海藻酸钠0.1%、透明质酸0.3%、三乙醇胺0.01‑0.02%,其余为水。

Description

一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种物理防晒纳米乳,特别是一种轻薄水润、细腻有光泽,能实现自然保护和多重保护的防晒纳米乳及其制备方法。
背景技术
无论任何季节和年龄,为了防止因紫外线中UVA和UVB造成的晒黑、晒伤、晒老化,皮肤的隔离和防晒均需长期重视。常用的防晒剂分为物理防晒和化学防晒。化学防晒剂通过化学反应而起作用,大多只能选择性防护,不能实现 UVA和UVB波段的全频防护,且易被人体吸收造成伤害。物理防晒剂主要是TiO2和ZnO,依靠对光的反射和散射而起防晒作用,因不被人体吸收而几乎不会造成对人体的伤害。但是,物理防晒剂具有高的吸油和吸水性,容易造成皮肤干燥脱皮;作为色料,依靠遮盖而起作用,会造成皮肤死白;无论采用哪种基质,相对于化学防晒剂来说,颗粒型的物理防晒剂较难载入,一般需用乳霜型等厚重感较强的基质。
因此,目前非常需要一种既能够起到良好的防晒作用,又能够避免人体皮肤干燥脱皮的防晒产品。
发明内容
本发明为了充分利用物理防晒剂对人体安全、可实现全频防护的优点,同时解决物理防晒产品容易造成皮肤干燥脱皮、死白、厚重感强的缺点,特提供一种轻薄水润、细腻有光泽,能实现自然保护和多重保护的防晒纳米乳及其制备方法。
一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,它由下述物质按所述质量百分浓度组成:物理防晒剂TiO2为1-5%、油相4-6%、表面活性剂5.5-12%、维生素E琥珀酸酯0.5-1%,薄荷醇0-0.8%、防腐剂0.1%,香料0.01-0.02%、甘油3-5%、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白 0.2-0.5%、六偏磷酸钠0.02%、熊果苷0.5%、卡波姆980为0.3%、海藻酸钠0.1%、透明质酸0.3%、三乙醇胺0.01-0.02%,其余为水;所述油相为橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质复合而成;所述的另一种油脂类物质为羊毛脂、十四酸异丙脂、单硬脂酸甘油脂中的一种;所述两种油脂类物质为羊毛脂、十四酸异丙脂、单硬脂酸甘油脂中任意两种以1:1~3:1质量比混合而成;所述表面活性剂为聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油与椰子油脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺以质量比为10.9:1~11.1:1混合而成;所述香料为熏衣草精油;所述防腐剂为尼泊金甲酯钠和尼泊金丙酯钠以质量比1:1混合而成。
本发明人前期研究中发现,物理防晒剂的防晒效果不受紫外线波长的影响,可实现全频保护,且防护效果具有剂量依赖性;TiO2的防晒强度优于ZnO。鉴于此,为了充分利用物理防晒剂的优点,克服其不足,本发明以一种保湿性和滋润性强的微乳凝胶为载体,提供一种含TiO2防晒剂的防晒产品及其制备方法,在使产品轻薄水润、细腻有光泽的同时实现自然保护和多重保护,避免了以霜、乳为基质所产生的厚重感。
为避免TiO2的强吸油性所引起的皮肤干燥,要求微乳中油相的含量要高,脂溶性要强。本发明通过两种及两种以上脂溶性成分复配、相互增溶的方法来提高微乳中油相的含量。脂溶性成份选择油溶性强的橄榄油,并复配以脂溶性强的另一种油脂如羊毛脂、单硬脂酸甘油脂,或再加入十四酸异丙脂。
为了防止TiO2的强吸水性,本发明中加入了透明质酸、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白、海藻酸钠、甘油等保湿成分。在保湿的同时,它们还起到提高黏度、助悬的效果,还可使产品发出自然光泽,避免TiO2出现的死白现象。
超微化的二氧化钛和二氧化锌对光的反射和散射作用弱,且易堵塞毛孔,造成皮肤透气性差。粒径较大时,又会产生颗粒感、涂展性差,较难实现均匀遮盖。本发明选用粒径为60-200nm的TiO2,并采用将其分散于六偏磷酸钠溶液中的方法提高产品的细腻度和光泽度。
一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳的制备方法,它包括以下步骤:
(1)取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解卡波姆980,得到质量百分浓度为1.5%的卡波姆980溶液,备用;
(2)另取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解透明质酸和海藻酸钠,得到质量百分浓度分别为1.5%和0.5%的溶液,备用;
(3)再取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水,先将其配成浓度为0.1%的六偏磷酸钠溶液,再将TiO2分散其中,得质量百分比浓度分别为5~25%的TiO2混悬液,备用;
(4)将橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质在70℃条件下相互溶解、均匀混合后,得油相;然后加入作为油溶性成分的维生素E琥珀酸酯,搅拌均匀后加入表面活性剂,得到油溶性溶液;
(5)在40℃磁力搅拌作用下,将剩余的蒸馏水缓慢地逐滴滴入步骤(4) 的油溶性溶液中,得微乳;
(6)将作为皮肤活性成分的甘油、熊果苷、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白加入步骤(5) 的微乳中,充分混匀;
(7)将步骤(3)的混悬液搅拌均匀后边搅拌边缓慢加入步骤(6)中,持续搅拌至分散均匀;
(8)将步骤(2)和步骤(1)的溶液逐一加入步骤(7)中,轻轻搅拌;
(9)用三乙醇胺调节步骤(8)的pH在5-7之间,脱气、灭菌,即得。
本发明制备条件温和、操作简单,产品轻盈透薄,在具有基础滋润保湿功效的微乳基质中可宽泛地加入各种溶解特性的皮肤活性物质,如晒后修复物质维生素E琥珀酸脂、熊果苷,具有清凉和促渗功效的薄荷醇,大分子的深海鱼皮胶原蛋白等,以及各种化学防晒剂,在TiO2紫外防护的同时,可实现对皮肤的多重保护。
附图说明
图1微乳载体的TEM图。
图2微乳凝胶载体的TEM图。
图3实施例8的紫外吸收。图中,曲线1为以水为对照,样本4的紫外吸收;曲线2为以水为对照,样本2的紫外结果;曲线3代表以纳米乳基质为对照,样本 4的紫外吸收;曲线5为以水为对照,样本1的紫外吸收;曲线6为以纳米乳基质为对照,样本3的紫外吸收。
具体实施方式
实施例1~9:制备100gTiO2防晒纳米乳。取20g蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解卡波姆980,得质量百分浓度为1.5%的卡波姆980溶液,备用;另取20g蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解透明质酸和海藻酸钠,得到质量百分比浓度分别为1.5%和0.5%的溶液,备用;再取20g的蒸馏水,先将其配成浓度为0.1%的六偏磷酸钠溶液,再将TiO2分散其中,得TiO2混悬液,备用;将橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质在70℃条件下相互溶解、均匀混合后,得油相。然后加入维生素E琥珀酸酯等油溶性成分,搅拌均匀后加入表面活性剂,得到油溶性溶液;在40℃磁力搅拌作用下,将其余量的蒸馏水缓慢地逐滴滴入油溶性溶液中,得微乳;将甘油、熊果苷、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白等水溶性的皮肤活性成分加入其中,充分混匀后,边搅拌边缓慢加入备用的TiO2混悬液,持续搅拌至分散均匀;然后将备用的透明质酸、海藻酸钠以及卡波姆980溶液逐一加入其中,轻轻搅拌后,用三乙醇胺调其pH在5-7之间,脱气、灭菌,即得。各实施例的组分及配方见表1。
表1各实施例用料及配方
Figure BDA0001388026710000041
上述1~9的各实施例,在油相与表面活性剂质量比由1:2到0.45:0.55的变化过程中,均能形成外观澄清透明的稳定的微乳;处方中各物质均能载入,室温放置6个月无霉变、外观均匀细腻有光泽。
实施例10~13:除蒸馏水外,其它组分的含量与实施例8相同,改变TiO2含量为1%、3%、4%、5%,按照上述制备方法,分别制得实施例10~13。
10~13的各实施例,室温放置6个月无霉变、外观均匀细腻有光泽,但TiO2含量大于2%时,不易涂抹且含量越高颗粒感越强。
试验例1
选取12名女大学生评论员,以日本Dr line美白物理防晒霜和玉兰油水养防晒美白霜为对照,通过光泽度(产品表面反射光线的程度)、坚实度(产品保持其自身形态的能力)、挑起性(从容器中取出的能力)、拉丝感(取出时的峰高)、厚重感A(手指和皮肤间感到样品的量)、铺展性(产品是否容易推开、抹开)、湿润度(水润程度)、滋润度(油润程度)、吸收性(吸收进入皮肤的快慢和难易)、美白度(皮肤亮白程度)、滑溜感(手指划过皮肤的难易程度)、粘感(手指与皮肤的粘黏性)、厚重感B(涂抹后皮肤的透气性)、潮润感保持度 (保持水润的程度)、卸妆容易程度(清洗难易程度)15项指标的对比,对实施例8的样本进行感官评价。
由均值t检验分析知,三者在挑起性、湿润度、滋润度、潮润感保持度方面没有显著性差异。日本Dr line美白物理防晒霜的美白度最好,但厚重感较其它二者有显著性差异;玉兰油水养防晒美白霜的卸妆、吸收性差,与其它两者相比有显著性差异;自制防晒乳与2种对照相比,感官评价良好,不足在于滑溜感和黏度。
试验例2
以实施例8为样本对本发明的微乳特性进行表征。
实施例8中不加步骤(3)的TiO2和步骤(1)的卡波姆时,经测定其粒径为61.5nm、PDI指数为0.28,黏度为146.95±0.35mPa·s。用电子透射电镜(TEM) 扫描的微观形态如图1,可见粒子形态不太圆整,但基本趋于球形分布。各项指标符合微乳粒径小于100nm,黏度低的特征。
实施例8中不加步骤(3)的TiO2时,黏度为27.62±0.18Pa·s,该黏度下样品具有较好的挑起性和涂展性。用电子透射电镜(TEM)扫描的微观形态见图2,与图1的微乳形态相比,在黑色的微乳粒子的周围介质中分布着大量的尺寸在纳米级范围的无规分布的物质,应该是卡波姆980凝胶骨架。黏度和粒子大小的测定结合符合微乳凝胶的特征。
试验例3
通过220~400nm波长范围内实施例8各样品紫外吸光度的测定对本发明的防晒效果进行评价。
按照实施例8的处方和方法,制备样品,记作样本1;按照实施例8的处方和方法,制备不含阿伏苯宗和TiO2的样品,即纳米乳基质的样品,记作样本2;按照实施例8的处方和方法,制备仅含阿伏苯宗的样品,记作样本3;按照实施例8的处方和方法,制备仅含TiO2的样品,记作样本4。用水稀释400倍后,分别测定各样品以水或纳米乳基质即样本2为对照的紫外吸收,所得结果如图3 所示。
图中,曲线1为以水为对照,样本4的紫外吸收;曲线2为以水为对照,样本2的紫外吸收;曲线3代表以纳米乳基质为对照,样本4的紫外吸收;曲线5 为以水为对照,样本1的紫外吸收;曲线6为以纳米乳基质为对照,样本3的紫外吸收。
将曲线1减去曲线2得虚线4,表示仅含TiO2防晒剂的纳米乳扣除纳米乳基质后的紫外吸收结果,即单纯TiO2对防晒纳米乳紫外吸收的贡献。图3可见虚线4与曲线3几乎重合,说明(1)样品的紫外吸收为样品中所含各物质紫外吸收的加和;(2)TiO2在220~400nm波长范围内可实现全频保护,随着波长的增大吸光度值略有增大。曲线2加曲线3再加曲线6的数据处理结果为虚线7,代表纳米乳基质、单纯TiO2和阿伏苯宗的紫外吸收之和。图3可见虚线7与曲线5 也几乎重合,说明(1)阿伏苯宗在360nm处有最大的吸收,是一种UVA保护剂;(2)纳米乳基质(曲线2)也有一定的紫外吸收,随着波长的增大吸光度值减小。总体来说,加入TiO2后纳米乳在整个紫外波长范围内均有较强的吸光,但随着波长的增大呈下降趋势(曲线1可见);加入阿伏苯宗后,可增强纳米乳在UVA波段处的吸收。可见,本发明所制备的样品在整个紫外波长范围内均可实现保护。

Claims (7)

1.一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,它由下述物质按所述质量百分浓度组成:物理防晒剂TiO2为1-5%、油相4-6%、表面活性剂5.5-12%、维生素E琥珀酸酯0.5-1%,薄荷醇0-0.8%、防腐剂0.1%,香料0.01-0.02%、甘油3-5%、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白0.2-0.5%、六偏磷酸钠0.02%、熊果苷0.5%、卡波姆980为0.3%、海藻酸钠0.1%、透明质酸0.3%、三乙醇胺0.01-0.02%,其余为水;所述油相为橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质复合而成;所述的另一种油脂类物质为羊毛脂、十四酸异丙脂、单硬脂酸甘油脂中的一种;所述两种油脂类物质为羊毛脂、十四酸异丙脂、单硬脂酸甘油脂中任意两种以1:1~1:3质量比混合而成;所述表面活性剂为聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油与椰子油脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺以质量比为10.9:1~11.1:1混合而成;所述香料为熏衣草精油;所述防腐剂为尼泊金甲酯钠和尼泊金丙酯钠以质量比1:1混合而成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,橄榄油在油相中所占质量比例不小于50%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,油相与表面活性剂的质量比在1:2~0.45:0.55的范围。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,所述物理防晒剂TiO2的粒径在60-200nm范围内。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,纳米乳基质中可任意加入不同溶解特性和分子大小的皮肤活性物质;还包括各种化学防晒剂,以及它们的组合,从而制得物理化学混合防晒纳米乳。
6.根据权利要求5所述的一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,所述皮肤活性物质包括维生素E琥珀酸脂、熊果苷、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白;所述化学防晒剂包括阿伏苯宗、奥立克林、甲氧基肉桂酸辛脂。
7.一种含TiO2的防晒纳米乳的制备方法,用于制备如权利要求1所述的防晒纳米乳,其特征在于,它包括以下步骤:
(1)取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解卡波姆980,得到质量百分浓度为1.5%的卡波姆980溶液,备用;
(2)另取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水用来溶胀、溶解透明质酸和海藻酸钠,得到质量百分浓度分别为1.5%和0.5%的溶液,备用;
(3)再取占防晒纳米乳总质量20%的蒸馏水,先将其配成浓度为0.1%的六偏磷酸钠溶液,再将TiO2分散其中,得质量百分比浓度分别为5~25%的TiO2混悬液,备用;
(4)将橄榄油与另一种或两种油脂类物质在70℃条件下相互溶解、均匀混合后,得油相;然后加入作为油溶性成分的维生素E琥珀酸酯,搅拌均匀后加入表面活性剂,得到油溶性溶液;
(5)在40℃磁力搅拌作用下,将剩余的蒸馏水缓慢地逐滴滴入步骤(4)的油溶性溶液中,得微乳;
(6)将作为皮肤活性成分的甘油、熊果苷、深海鱼皮胶原蛋白加入步骤(5)的微乳中,充分混匀;
(7)将步骤(3)的混悬液搅拌均匀后边搅拌边缓慢加入步骤(6)中,持续搅拌至分散均匀;
(8)将步骤(2)和步骤(1)的溶液逐一加入步骤(7)中,轻轻搅拌;
(9)用三乙醇胺调节步骤(8)的pH在5-7之间,脱气、灭菌,即得。
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